tr i f\ ~~ 

A 0 



THE 



KNAPSACK GUIDE 



FOR 



TRAVELLERS 



IN 



SWITZERLAND. 

NEW EDITION, REVISED. 



I 

WITH CLUE MAPS, PLANS, AND MOUNTAIN OUTLINES. 

3^ 



LONDON : 

JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMAKLE STREET. 

PARIS: A. & W. GALIGNANI & CO.; AND A. XAVJER. 
1867. 



The right of Trav station is reserved. 



THE ENGLISH EDITIONS OF MURRAY'S HANDBOOKS MAY BE OBTAINED OF THI 
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AIX-LA. 1 

CHAPELLE J 
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LALOY.— DUFEY ROBERT- 



Western Ont. Univ. Llbffa&ty 
Feb- 25- 1938 




The general demand for a briefer, cheaper, and more portable 
series of Guides to the Continent, has given rise to the Knapsack 
Guide to Switzerland, It is not merely an abridgment of the 
Swiss Handbook, but a condensed and corrected revision, con- 
taining much new matter regarding places and passes in the 
Alps to which Englishmen now resort, suited for persons whose 
time and means are limited, and who wish to take merely a 
rapid run across the Continent, arranged in a form very con- 
venient for the traveller on foot or by Bail. The numbering of 
the routes has been retained without alteration, to enable the 
reader to refer to the Handbook whenever he may desire fuller 
information or more complete historical detail, which it is 
impossible to convey in a volume of such limited size. 

The aim has been to make this volume as practical as possible, 
and to this end Plans of Towns and Districts, with slight out- 
lines of the great Alpine Chains from different points of view, 
have been given to serve as diagrams by which the prominent 
mountain peaks may be recognised. This Second Edition has 
been carefully corrected. 

The Knapsack Guide to Switzerland has been followed by 
others for Italy (except Eome), in 1 vol., Norway, Tyrol and 
the Austrian Alps, &c. 

*** Corrections of errors and notices of omissions will be thank- 
fully received by the Publisher. 



a 2 



LIST OF PLANS AND MOUNTAIN OUTLINES. 



* Berne and the Chain of Bernese Alps . . . . . . Frontispiece. 

COLS. 

' Plan— Basle .. .. .. .. .. .. 1,2 

P Falls of the Rhine .. .. .. .. .. .. 28 

v Plan — Zurich .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 39,40 

f Sketch Map of the Lake of Lucerne, the Pilatus, and Rigi . . 57, 58 

(Plan — Lucerne .. .. .. .. .. .. 69,70 

v Berne .. .. .. .. . . * .. .. .. 91,92 

Bernese Alps from Berne . . . . . . . . . . 93 5 94 

- Section showing nature of View from Wengern Alp, Faulhorn, 

Scheinige Platte, &c. .. .. .. .. .. 105,106 

^Plan — Geneva .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 221,222 

Chain of Monte Rosa .. .. .. .. .. ..431,432 

I Plan — Aosta .. .. .. .. .. .. 483,484 

Outlines of Mountains : — 

From Rigi .. .. .. .. .. 63 

^ From Pilatus . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 

4 From Faulhorn .. . . .. .. 113,174 

From iEggischorn .. .. .. .. .. ., 133,134 

n From Torrenthorn . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 70 

4 From Pierre a Voir .. ... - .. ..253,254 

From Piz Languard .. .. .. .. ..381,382 

v From Gorner Grat . . .. .. .. .. ..453,454 

From Bella Tola .. .. .. .. 7. .. 467.468 



CONTENTS, 



INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION 



1. Passports and Custom-bouses 

2. Money .... 

3. Tables of Measures 

4. Distances . 

5. Electric Telegrapb 

6. Posting .... 

7. Diligences — Luggage 

8. Railways . 

9. Guides 



COL. 

xvii 
xviii 
xix 
xxi 
xxi 
xxii 
xxii 
xxiv 
xxv 



Heigbts of Mountains, Lakes, 



COL, 

10. Horses and Mules— Chaises- 
a-Porteurs . . . . . xxviii 

11. Swiss Inns xxix 

12. Directions for Travellers — 
Precautions for Healtb . . xxxi 

13. Maps xxxiii 

14 Requisites for Travelling . xxxiv 
15. Objects most deserving of 

notice in Switzerland . . . xxxiv 
.nd Passes . . . xxxvii 



Section I.— SWITZERLAND. 



%* Tbe names of many places are necessarily repeated in several Routes ; but to 
facilitate reference, tbey are printed in Italics only in tbose Routes under 



wbicb tbey are fully described. 

ROUTE COL. 

i Basle. — Basle to Bienne, by 
the Vol Moutiers (Mini- 
ster Truil), and to Berne . 1 

3 Basle to Soleure and Bienne, 

by Railway. — Ascent of 
the Weissenstein ♦ . . 12 

4 Basle to Lucerne, by the 

Central Swiss Railway . 15 

5 Basle to Berne, by the Cen- 

tral Swiss Railway . . 19 

6 Basle to Zurich (Railway) . 20 

7 Basle to Schaffhausen and 

the Rhinefall, by Wold- 
shutt (Rail) . . . . 25 

8 Schaffhausen to Constance 

(Rail.) — Lake of Constance 29 

9 Schaffhausen to Zurich, by 

Winterthur — (Rheinfall 
Railway) . . . . 36 
10 Romanshorn to Zurich, by 

Winterthur (Rail) . . 44 

12 Zurich to Berne (Rail) . . 45 

13 Zurich to Ragatz and Coire, 

by the Lakes of Zurich 
and Wallenstadt (Rail) . 45 



ROUTE 

15 Zurich to Lucerne and the 

Bigi, by Eorgen, Zug, 
and Immensee • 

16 Zurich to Zug (the Rigi) 

and Lucerne, by Rail, 
through Reppisch Thai . 

1 7 Lucerne to Schvjytz — the 

Fall of the Bossberg . 

18 Lake of Lucerne . 

19 Brunig Pass. — Lucerne to 

Meyringen or Brienz . 

20 Melchthal. — Sarnen to En- 

gelberg or Meiringen . 

24 Berne to Thun, Lake of 

Thun, and Lnterlaken 

25 lnterlaken to Lauterbrun- 

nen, Murren, Grindelv:ald, 
Reichenbach, and Lake of 
Brienz 

26 Passes of the Grimsel and 

Farca — Meyringen or Rei- 
chenbach to Hospenthal . 

27 Passes from the Grimsel — 

Strahleck and Oberaar- 
joch 



53 



67 

75 
78 

82 

89 

90 



126 



xi 



CONTENTS. 



xii 



ROUTE COL, 

28 Grimselor Rhone Glacier to 
Brieg, by Obergestelen — 
the JEggischhorn . . .129 
31 Stanz to Engelberg . .136 
3 2 Meyringen to Altorf, by En- 
gelberg, the Joch and 
Surenen Passes . . .138 

34 The Pass of St. Gotthard, 

from Fluelen, on the Lake 

of Lucerne, to Bellinzona 141 

35 Lauterbrunnen (a) to Kip- 

pel — or (6) to Kandersteg, 

by the Tschingel Glacier 154 

36 Lauterbrunnen or Murren 

to Kandersteg, by the 
Passes of the Seefinen 
Fur he and Dundengrat . 158 
3 7 Pass 0/ Gemmi, Thun 
to the Baths of Leuk 
(Louche), and to Leuk in 
the Valais .... 161 

38 Turtman and Kippel to 

Kandersteg, by the Ldtsch 
Pass 171 

39 Pass of the Rawyl. — Thun 

to Sion, or Sierre • .174 

40 Lenk to Lauenen, by the 

Triittlisberg . — Lauenen to 
Gsteig, by the Chrinen . 178 

41 Pass of the Sanetsch. — 

Saanen to Sion . . .179 

42 Thun to Vevay, by the Sim- 

menthol; Saanen, Chateau 
oVOex, and Gruyeres : — 
Pass of the Dent de Jaman 181 

43 Chateau d'Oex to Aigle or 

Bex, by the Valley des 
Ormonds 187 

45 Berne to Lausanne (and 

Vevay), by Freiburg (Rail) 191 

46 Berne to Lausanne, by Morat 

and Avenches ( A venticum) 197 

48 Berne to Neuchdtel . .199 

49 Bienne to Tver dun and Lau- 

sanne, by the Lakes of 
Bienne and Neuchdtel 
(Railway) . . . .204 

50 Neuchatel to Chaux de 

Fonds and Le Locle (Rail) 209 



EOUTE COL. 

51 Pontarlier (in France) to 

Neuchatel . . . .212 

52 Yverdun, or Lausanne, to 

the Lac de Joux . . .215 

53 Lyons, or Macon, to Geneva 

(Railway) . . . .219 

55 Geneva to Villeneuve, by 

Lausanne, Vevay, and 
Chillon. Lake of Geneva 233 

56 Villeneuve to Sion . . 246 

57 Geneva to Martigny, by 

Thonon and Meillerie, 
along the South Shore of 
the Lake of Geneva . . 25 7 

58 Bex to Sion, by the Col de 

Cheville — Diablerets . .261 
58ASion to Evolena, in Val 

d'Herens 265 

59 Passage of the Simplon. 

Sion to Brieg, and to Domo 
d'Ossola 266 

60 Turtman to the iEggisch- 

horn, by the Lotschsattel 277 

61 Viesch to Crodo, in Val An- 

tigorio, by the Binnenthal 279 

62 Pass of the Gries, Ober- 

gesteln to Domo d'Ossola, by 
Val Formazza (Pommat), 
and the Falls of the Tosa 282 

63 Pass of the Nufenen (No- 

vena), from Obergestelen 

to Airolo 286 

65 Zurich to Rorschach, by 

St. Gall (Railway) . .287 

66 Rorschach to Coire, by 

Ragatz and the Baths of 
Pfeffers (Railway) . .290 

67 Bregenz to Coire, by Feld- 

kirch 300 

68 St. Gall, or Rorschach, to 

Gais and Appenzell, and 
Weissbad (carriage-road) 301 

69 St. Gall to Uznach, by 

Heinrichsbad and Herisau 306 
j I The Toggenburg. Wyl to 

Coire . • . *. . . 308 
72 Wesen or Richterschwyl 

to Schwytz — Einsiedeln — 

Morgarten . . . .310 



xiii 



CONTENTS. 



xiv 



327 
328 



ROUTE COL. 

73 Schwytz to Glarus, by Mu- 

otta, the Pragel Pass, and 
the Kloathal . . . .316 

74 Wesen to Glarus and the 

Baths of Stachelberg and 
Head of Linthal . . .319 

75 Muotta to the Baths of 

Stachelberg, by the Bisi 
Thai ; or to Altorf, by the 
Kinzig Kulm * . . .324 

76 Stachelberg to Altorf, by 

the Klausen Pass . • 

77 Stachelberg to Disentis, by 

the Sand Grat 

79 Glarus or Stachelberg to 

Reichenau — Richetli and 
Segnes Passes . . .329 

80 Glarus to llanz, by the 

Panixer Pass . . , 332 

82 Coire, up the Valley of the 

Vorder Rhein, to Disentis, 
and across the Oberalp 
Pass to Andermatt . .335 

83 Amsteg to Disentis, by the 

Pass of the Kreuzli . .340 

84 Disentis to Airolo, by the 

Uomo Pass . . . .342 

85 Pass of the Lukmanier — 

Disentis to Olivone in Val 
Blegno 343 

8 7 Coire to Chiavenna — the Via 

Mala — Pass of the Spliigen 345 

88 Andeer to Casaccia, by the 
Avers Thai, Forcellina and 
Septimer Passes . • .355 



route col. 

89 Spliigen to llanz, by the 

Pass of the Valserberg . 357 

90 Thusis to Tiefenkasten and 

the Albula Pass — the 
Schyn Pass . • . . 35 9 

91 Pass of the Bernardin — 

Spliigen to Bellinzona 
(post-road) . . . .360 

92 Tidier Pass, from Coire to 

Samaden (post-road) . .363 

93 Albula Pass, from Coire to 

Samaden . » . . • 367 

94 Chiavenna to Samaden, by 

the Val Bregaglia and the 
Pass of the Maloja or 
Maloggia . . . .370 

95 The Engadine ; Samaden to 

Nauders 373 

96 Bernina Pass, from Samaden 

in the Engadine to Tirano 

in the Valteline . . .379 

98 The Prattigau — Coire or 

Ragatz, by Landquart, to 
Suss in the Engadine . 387 

99 Coire to Plaz (Davos) and 

Klosters, by the Schanfik 
Thai and Pass of the 
Strela 390 

100 Plaz or Davos to Sus, by 

the Fluela Pass . . . 3 9 1 

101 Bludenz, in Vorarlberg, to 
the Prattigau, by the Pass 

of the Schweizerthor . .392 



Section II.— PIEDMONT AND SAVOY. 



ROUTE COL. 

in Domo d'Ossola to Arona — < 
Borromean Islands — Lago 
Maggiore . . . -395 

112 Domo d'Ossola to Locarno, 

by the Val Vegezza. . 401 

113 Bellinzona to Magadino or 

Locarno . . . .402 



114 Bellinzona to Lugano, 

Como, and Camerlata, by 
Monte Cenere . . . 406 

115 Luino on Lago Maggiore 

to the Lake of Lugano, 
and thence to Menaggio 
on the Lake of Como . 409 



CONTENTS. 



ROUTE COL. 

116 Chiavenna to Lecco . .416 

117 Arona to Varallo, in the 

Val Sesia . . . .418 

118 Baveno to Varallo, by the 

Lake of Orta, or by Val 
Stroua 420 

119 Varallo to Alagna — The 

Val Sesia . . . .425 

121 Vogogna to Macugnaga, 

by the Val Anzasca . 427 

122 Macugnaga to Visp, by the 

Monte Moro and Saas . 433 

123 Varallo to the Val Anzasca , 

by the Val.Mastalone, or 

by Val Sermenta . .438 

124 Macugnaga to Alagna, by 

the Tar lo Pass, and thence 
to Gressonay, by the Col 
d' Ollen or the Col di Val 

Dobbia 440 

Gressonay to Chatillon, by 
the Col de Banzola . . 446 
Visp to Zermatt or Saas . 448 
Zermatt to Chatillon, by 
the Col de St. Theodule 
(Matteijoch) and Val 
Tournanche . . • 459 
St. Nicholas to Gruben in 
the Turtman Thai ; 
thence to St. Luc in Val 
d'Anniviers ; thence down 
the valley to Susten . 464 
St. Luc to Evolena — Evo- 

lena to Sion . . . 471 
Aosta to Evolena, by the 
Valpellina and Col de 
Collon 475 

134 Turin to Aosta and Cour- 

mayeur, by Ivrea. — 
The Val d' Aosta . .477 

135 Martigny to Aosta. — Pass 

of the Great St. Bernard 489 

136 Martigny to Aosta, by the 

Val de Bagnes, Col des 
Fenetres, and Val Pellina 49 7 



125 

127 

128 



129 



130 
131 



ROUTE COL. 

137 Martigny to Courmayeur 500 

138 Geneva to Chamounix -503 

139 Chamouni to Courmayeur, 

by the Col du Bonhomme 
and the Col de la Seigne . 518 

141 Chamouni to Martigny, by 

the Tete Noire. Also by 
the Eau Noire . . .522 

142 Martigny to Chamouni, by 

the Col de Balme . ^525 

143 Servoz to Geneva, by Sixt 526 

144 Sixt to Monthey — Val 

dTlliez 530 

146 Aosta to Ponte in Val 

d'Orca, by Cogne and the 
Val Soanna . . . .532 

147 Ponte to Aosta, by Cere- 

sol Baths. TheValSava- 
ranche 536 

149 Courmayeur to Bourg 

St. Maurice, by the 
Little St. Bernard . .539 

150 Sallenches to V Hopital 

Confians (Albertville), 

by TJgine . , . . 542 

151 Geneva to Chambery, by 

Aix les Bains (Railway) 544 

152 Geneva, by Annecy, to 

Aiguebelle, on the Mont 
Cenis Road . . . .548 

154 Chambery to Turin — Mont 

Cenis ♦ 549 

156 Chambery to Lanslebourg, 
by the Tarentaise — Col 
dLseran — Col de la 
Leisse 

160 Briancon to Susa, by the 

Pass of the Mont Genevre 

161 Brian§on to Pignerol, by 

the Col de Sestrieres 

162 Pignerol to Mont Dauphin, 

by the Valleys of the 
Vaudois and the Col de 
la Croix 5 70 



557 
563 
565 



Index 



577 



INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION. 



COL. 

1. Passports and Custom-houses xvii 

2. Money xviii 

3. Tables of Measures . . . xix 

4. Distances xxi 

5. Electric Telegraph . . . xxi 

6. Posting . xxii 

7. Diligences — Luggage . . . xxii 

8. Railways . . . . . . xxiv 

9. Guides xxv 

Heights of Mountains, Lakes, 



10. Horses and Mules — Chaises- 
a-Porteurs xxviii 

11. Swiss Inns xxix 

12. Directions for Travellers- 
Precautions for Health . . xxxi 

13. Maps xxxiii 

14. Requisites for Travelling . xxxiv 

15. Objects most deserving of 

notice in Switzerland . . . xxxiv 
and Passes . . . xxxvii 



I. Passports and Custom-houses. 
— The Passport system is abolished in 
Bavaria, Belgium, Denmark, Holland, 
France, Austria, Italy, Prussia, Spain, 
Sweden, and Norway. Notwithstand- 
ing this, no English traveller should 
venture abroad for a journey of any 
length without a passport as a 
proof of his nationality. He may 
otherwise be marched, under arrest, 
for miles along a hot, dusty road, 
to some Sous Prefet's residence, under 
the suspicion of his not being an 
Englishman at all. A passport can be 
procured at the Foreign -Office, Down- 
ing Street, by leaving or sending a let- 
ter of recommendation from any M.P., 
or London banker, magistrate, clergy- 
man, solicitor, or surgeon, and calling 
or sending the next day for the pass- 
port, for which a fee of 2s. is charged. 
The visa of the Austrian Ambassador 
in London is no longer required for a 
British traveller on entering Austria. 

Those who have not time or a 
servant at their disposal should for- 
ward their letters of recommendation 
to Lee, 440, Strand, or to Dorrell 
and Son, 15, Charing Cross, who for 
a small charge will procure the pass- 
ports and visas, and will aiso mount 
the passport in a case, which some 
travellers prefer. For further in- 



formation, see Handbook for the Con- 
tinent, or Handbook for France. 

Custom-houses.— The Swiss now 
levy import-dues only on a few 
bulky articles, and no examination of 
passengers' luggage is made on enter- 
ing or leaving the country. Slight 
examinations are made on entering 
France, Italy, Austria, or the German 
States. 

2. Money. — The coinage of Swit- 
zerland, by a decree of the Diet of 
1850, has been reduced to conformity 
with that of France. 

French Napoleons and francs, cur- 
rent all over Switzerland, are the 
best money the traveller can take with 
him ; but English sovereigns and 
bank-notes are usually taken at inns 
throughout Switzerland and on the 
Italian lakes, at a value of 25 francs. 

A convenient method of taking 
money is by circular notes issued by 
Coutts and Co., Herries and Co., the 
London and Westminster Bank, and 
other banks, payable at all the large 
towns in Europe, and changed at 
many of the more frequented country 
inns in Switzerland. They maybe pro- 
cured for any sum from 10/. upwards. 

The coinage of Piedmont and Lom- 
bardy is the same as that of France ; 



xix 



IN TROD UCTOB Y INFORMATION 



but the old coinage of Piedmont, and 
Austrian zwanzigers, are still in cir- 
culation in the remoter districts. 

3. Tables of Measures. 



Metres to English Feet. 



Metres. 


English Feet. 




Accurate. 


Approx. 
3k 


i 


3 2809 


2 


6-5618 


6+ 


3 


9-8427 


9f 


4 


13 1236 


13 
i6f 


5 


16-4045 


6 


19-6854 


19+ 


7 


22-9663 


23 


8 


26-2472 


26i 


9 


29-5281 


29i 



French Feet to English Feet. 



French 
Feet. 


English Feet. 




Accurate. 


Approx. 


1 


1-0658 


1 


2 


2-1315 


2 


3 


3 1973 


3 


4 


4*2631 


4? 


5 


5-3288 


5* 


6 


6-3946 


6* 


7 


7-4604 


n 


8 


8-5261 


8+ 


9 


95919 


9* 



An approximate way of reducing 
French feet to English feet is to add ^th. 



Kilometres to English Miles. 



Kilo- 
metre. 


English 
Miles. 


Kilo- 
metre. 


English 
Miles. 




Approx. 




Approx. 


1 


i 1 


8 


5 


2 


i£ 


! 9 


5i 


3 


if 


10 


6 


4 


H 


20 


12* 


5 




30 


i8i 


6 


3* 


40 


24f 




4? 


50 


3i 



Centimetres to Inches. 



Centi- 


Inches. 




Accurate. 


A:: ' : : x . 


1 


■394 


3f 


2 


•788 


s 


3 


i- 181 


I 


4 


1575 


H 


5 


1-969 


2 


6 


2-362 


i\ 


7 


2-756 


2f 


8 


3-150 


3 


9 


5-543 


31 



Swiss Measures of Distance. 



League. 


English Miles. 




Accurate. 


Approx. 


1 Swiss league 




or stunde, since 


| 2-983 


3 


1848 . . . 
1 Swiss post 


3 Swiss league 


* 9 


1 French league 


2-485 





Square Measure. 





Acres. 




Accurate. 


Approx. 


1 Swiss arpent 


0-89 


TO 


1 hectare 


■27456 


4 



Temperature. 
Fahrenheit. I Centigrade, j Eeaumur. 



0 


0 




0 


212 


100 


80 


200 




3 


74-7 


150 


s 


6 


52-4 


I40 


60 


0 


48-0 


130 


54 


4 


43-6 


I20 


48 


9 


39-i 


no 


43 




34'7 


100 


37 


8 


302 


90 


32 


2 


25-8 


80 


26 


7 


213 


70 


21 


1 


169 


6c 


15 


6 


12-4 


50 


IO 


0 


8-o 


40 


4 


4 


36 


30 


— 1 


1 


- 6-9 


20 


- 6 


7 


- 53 


10 


— 12 


2 


- 9-8 


0 


— 17 


8 


-i 4 -2 



The distances in the following routes, where not derived from official tables or 
actual experience, are laid down from careful measurements of the great Swiss Sur- 
vey Map of Dufour. 



xxi 4. DISTANCES.— 5 . TELEGRAPH.— 6. POSTING, xxii 



4. Distances. — The distances in 
this work have been reduced to Eng- 
lish miles, which are always to be 
understood wherever the word mile 
alone is used. 

The distances are reckoned along 
the mountain-paths in hours, mean- 
ing thereby the distance which a 
mule with an ordinary load usually 
travels in an hour ; and this is to be 
understood whenever the word hour 
alone is used. 

The hour of course varies accord- 
ing to the nature of the ground. In 
very steep ascents it does not exceed 
2 miles, in lesser acclivities 2 J miles ; 
but on the mountains it is never 
more than 2J miles. An active 
walker will gain 5 or 10 minutes an 
hour on mules during an ascent, and 
still more on the descent ; but per- 
sons not accustomed to exertion, or 
unused to mountain work, will find 
difficulty in keeping up with the 
mules when the ascent is steep. The 
mules are nearly as long on the de- 
scent as on the ascent ; and therefore 
no difference is made in the ordinary 
reckoning of distances, whether the 
path be up or down hill. 

5. Electric Telegraph. — Its sud- 
den and almost simultaneous esta- 
blishment along all the great high- 
roads of the country was very re- 
markable. There is now scarcely a 
second-rate town or village that is 
not thus connected ; and from any of 
them a message not exceeding 20 
words can be sent for the small 
charge of one franc to any part of 
Switzerland. Travellers can thus, 
before starting* in the morning, secure 
quarters for the night, or even order 
their dinner beforehand. The mode 
of arranging the wire is excessively 
primitive and economical, but seems 
to be effectual. It is stated that the 
insulation of the wires is not affected 
by their being covered with snow, 



and in many instances they are in 
contact with the foliage of trees. — It 
is singular and striking to see the 
telegraphic wires stretched from rock 
to rock along the pathless shores of 
the lake of Lucerne, and surmount- 
ing the steep ascent and gloomy soli- 
tudes of the Gries and other Alpine 
Passes. The central office of the 
telegraph is at Berne. 

6. Posting. — Since the extension 
of railways such a thing as a regular 
travelling-carriage is seldom seen in 
Switzerland. Those who wish to be 
luxurious, and do not mind the ex- 
pense and in many instances the 
inconvenience of having a carriage 
attached to them, may hire a carriage 
for the journey at Geneva, Zurich, 
Lucerne, or occasionally at other 
towns in Switzerland. 

In hiring a Swiss carriage for the 
journey, let the traveller ascertain, 
before he concludes the bargain, 
under what class the vehicle would 
be ranged by the posting laws, and 
what number of horses will be re- 
quired to draw it. 

It is a great convenience in Swit- 
zerland for a solitary traveller that 
he may post in a car with one horse, 
the charges being, per post — 
For 1 horse . . . 5 fr. 
„ car . . . . 2 fr. 
„ postboy . . . 1 fr. 50 c. 

but an extra trinkgeld is expected. 

Tolls for the roads and bridges are 
abolished throughout Switzerland, 
and the owners indemnified. 

7. Diligences — Luggage. — Dili- 
gences, running at moderate fares, 
and well arranged by the Govern- 
ment, traverse almost every part of 
Switzerland not furnished with rail- 
ways, and connect the Railway Sta- 
tions with the towns and villages 
around them. Except from the 
banquette, very little of the beauty 
of the country is seen by those who 
travel by them. 



xxiii 



tNTBOB UCTOB T INFOBMATION. 



xxiv 



The diligence offices will book any 
number of passengers up to a certain 
hour. When the time for starting 
arrives, all the luggage and as many 
passengers as the vehicle will hold 
are put into the diligence, and the 
rest of the passengers are sent by 
other carriages, called u supple- 
ments/' or 4; beiwagen," of which 
there are often 3 or 4. It is the 
fashion to object to supplements; 
but if there is a party of 4 or 5, they 
can generally get a supplement to 
themselves, and travel very com- 
fortably, except that the supplement 
is usually changed at eveiy stage. 
Passengers in this way can book 
themselv es through, for long distances. 
Unless at the place from which the 
diligence starts, it is useless to take 
places for the coupe', for at the inter- 
mediate stations the coupe' is often 
found full, and the traveller proceeds 
in a supplement. The pace along 
level ground never exceeds 6 miles 
an hour; at the smallest symptom 
of a hill this falls to a walk : down 
hill they occasionally go rather faster ; 
and to those who have not become 
hardened by use it is rather a ner- 
vous thing to see the heavy diligence 
turn round the comers of the zigzags 
in the face of precipices, with the 
reins of the 5 horses flying loose, and 
the horses apparently under no con- 
trol. The horses, however, know 
the road, and, except in snow, an 
accident is seldom heard of. 

The conductor's fee and the pos- 
tilion's trinkgeld are included in the 
fare. 

Travellers in Switzerland will fre- 
quently be glad to avail themselves 
of the diligences and railways to for- 
ward their luggage from one place to 
another, while they are making pe- 
destrian excursions among the moun- 
tains. In such cases they have only 
to book their packages at the coach- 
office, after carefully addressing them, 



and, in some cases, entering a speci- 
fication of their value in a printed 
form. They will then receive a re- 
ceipt, and the article will be for- 
warded and taken care of until 
claimed. 

In making application for pack- 
ages so consigned, as well as for 
letters at the post-office, the English- 
man should present his name printed 
or very legibly written, as our pro- 
nunciation is frequently unintelligible 
to foreigners, and without this pre- 
caution the applicant may be told 
that his luggage has not arrived, 
when in reality it is all the while 
lying in the depot. The traveller 
may also request to look over the 
packages in search of his own. 

Many complaints are made as to 
the carelessness of the officials in 
Swiss post-offices, even in the large 
towns, and many persons find it ex- 
pedient to have their letters addressed 
to the care of a banker or a well- 
known hotel-keeper. 

8. Railways. — Down to the year 
1855 * ne on ^y railway in Switzerland 
was a short line from Zurich to 
Baden, a village in the neighbour- 
hood. The reason of this was not, 
as generally supposed, the extreme 
natural difficulties of the country, 
Switzerland being in fact, with the 
exception of the passes through the 
central mountains of the Alps and 
the Jura, not a very difficult country. 
The lowlands, or parts round Berne, 
Aarau, Xeuchatel, Lausanne, &c, 
are not worse than many parts of 
the south of England ; and by means 
of the valleys of the Rhine and the 
Rhone, railways can penetrate deep 
into the Alps with remarkable ease. 
The real difficulty consisted in the 
extraordinary and incredible jealou- 
sies between not only the different 
cantons, but the different communes 
or parishes, and the legal difficulties 



XXV 



9- GUIDES. 



xxvi 



in obtaining the land. A change of 
government, however, having taken 
place in 1848, a system of railways 
was planned by the Department of 
Public Works, and has been largely 
carried into execution, many of the 
lines being executed by English en- 
gineers and with English capital. 

The earthworks on the United 
Swiss line were made, under Eng- 
lish engineers and foremen, by Pied- 
montese navvies, the Swiss not being 
found suitable for the work. These 
Piedmontese are said to be powerful 
men, and to work as hard, though 
not so skilfully, as the English 
navvy, living at the same time upon 
very poor food, and saving the 
greatest part of their wages. 

The luggage arrangements on the 
Swiss railways are, if possible, more 
inconvenient than on the French or 
German railways ; and there is a 
system of extortion for conveyance to 
and from the stations which the tra- 
veller should be on his guard against. 

The Swiss railway carriages are 
generally on the American model, 
with cross seats, and a passage down 
the middle. 

9. Guides. — Guides by profession 
abound in Switzerland ; several of 
the guides of Chamouni and the Ber- 
nese Oberland have acquired a wide- 
spread and well-earned reputation. 
The best are usually engaged during 
the entire season by members of the 
Alpine Club, or other mountaineers. 
In general, the practice of taking the 
same guide for an entire tour is be- 
coming more and more common 
amongst Alpine travellers, and in 
this way many have acquired local 
knowledge of a considerable portion 
of the Alpine chain. 

Good General Guides are to be 
found at Chamouni, Grindelwald, In- 
terlaken, and also at Zurich, Lucerne, 
Berne, &c. ; and it is by no means a 



bad plan for an inexperienced tra- 
veller or party to engage one of them 
for the tour, even though he should 
not have sufficient knowledge to act 
as guide over mountain-passes beyond 
his own peculiar district. He makes 
himself useful, not only in pointing 
out the way, but in acting as inter- 
preter to those unacquainted with 
the language of the country, and also 
in relieving the traveller of the 
weight of his knapsack or travelling- 
bag; and, in fact, acts as courier, 
but at a far cheaper rate, and gene- 
rally with more honesty. Such a 
guide should not, as a general rule, 
be engaged without the recommenda- 
tion of an innkeeper or other respect- 
able person, and it should be dis- 
tinctly understood that the traveller 
is to be free to discharge him when- 
ever he pleases, paying his expenses 
home, or a day's pay for each day's 
journey to be made on foot. 

No one, without thorough know- 
ledge and experience of the high Alps, 
should be foolish enough to trust 
himself over ice or snow without a 
guide. It is entirely a new world ; 
and when the slightest check occurs, 
an inexperienced person is utterly at 
a loss. He does not know what ice 
will bear him, where the crevasses 
run, where avalanches fall, or w T here 
the safe track is likely to be; and 
with the best ordinary judgment, is 
quite as likely to run into danger as 
to avoid it. One golden rule to those 
who take no guide is, always to leave 
two or three good hours of daylight 
as a margin beyond the utmost time 
which the route is calculated to 
occupy. Another excellent rule is, 
to beware of short cuts upon your 
own judgment. Villagers will 'often 
for a few sous show wonderfully 
short cuts. 

In the eastern parts of Switzer- 
land, where there are no professional 
guides, the traveller is often obliged 



xxvii INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION. xim 



to place himself in the hands of some 
peasant or cowherd, whose sole know- 
ledge of a pass lies, perhaps, in his 
having crossed it once or twice many 
years before. 

The established rate of hire is 6 F. 
francs a-day, and in the Oberland 
i fir. bonnemain ; but, in addition to 
this, there will be a claim for money 
to return, if dismissed at a distance 
from home, unless the employer find 
him a fresh master to take back. For 
this sum the guide provides for him- 
self, and is expected to discharge all 
the duties of a domestic towards his 
employer. 

The guides at Chain ouni fonn a 
corporation, and are subject to a 
number of stringent rules as to their 
employment. A monopoly has also 
been established in the Oberland, and 
in some other parts of Switzerland. 
In the Lower Valais it is a punishable 
offence for any one, not a professed 
guide, to carry a traveller's luggage ! ! 

For the most part, the guides may 
be said to be obliging, intelligent, 
and hard-working men. Few who 
have employed them cannot bear tes- 
timony to their coolness, intrepidity, 
and tact, in moments of danger. It is 
in such situations that their knowledge 
of the mountains, their experience of 
the weather, their strong arm and 
steady foot, are fully appreciated. 

A little civility and familiarity on 
the part of the employer — the offer 
of a cigar from the traveller's own 
case, or a glass of brandy from his 
private flask — will rarely be thrown 
away ; on the contrary, it is likely 
to produce assiduity and communi- 
cativeness on the part of the guide. 
Many of them are fine and athletic 
men, and to carry for 8 or 10 hours 
a-day, and for a distance of 25 or 30 
m., a load of 30 or 40 lbs. weight, is 
made light of by them. 

Some travellers content themselves 
with a mere porter to carry their 



baggage for them. He is paid less 
than a professional guide ; 3 or 4 fr. 
a-day will suffice. 

In making purchases, as in the 
choice of inns, travellers should not 
blindly follow the advice of the guide, 
who too often has an eye to the per- 
centages. 

10. Horses and Mules. — Chaise s- 
a-Porteurs. — Previous to 1800, or 
even later, until Napoleon com- 
menced the magnificent carriage- 
roads over the Alps, the only mode 
of conveying either passengers or 
goods across them was on the back 
of men, or of horses or mules. Even 
now, upon all the minor passes, the 
entire traffic is carried on by the 
same means. 

The customary hire of a horse or 
mule throughout Switzerland, gene- 
rally rixed by a printed tariff, 
amounts to 10 fr. a-day, and 1 fr. or 
2 fr. to the man who takes care of 
it ; at Chamouni it is 6 fr., but 
there a guide must also be taken. 
Back-fare must be paid if the animals 
are dismissed at a distance from 
home, and at so late an hour of the 
day that they cannot return before 
night. 

The ponies that are used in the 
Bernese Oberland, on the Kigi, and 
in other parts of Switzerland, are 
clever animals: but they are, per- 
haps, excelled by the mules of Cha- 
mouni and other parts of Savoy. In 
awkward places the animal needs no 
guidance, but will pick his own way, 
and find out the best path far better 
than his rider can direct him ; and, 
in such circumstances, it is safest to 
let the reins hang loose, and trust 
entirely to his sagacity (see Rte. 3 7). 

Descending the passes on horse- 
back is disagreeable. Each saddle 
has a flap or pillion attached, on 
which a knapsack or carpet-bag, not 
weighing more than about 30 lbs., 



xxix 



ii. INNS- 



CHARGES. 



XXX 



may be carried. A portmanteau re- 
quires an extra mule. Side-saddles 
are now to be found wherever there 
are inns and regular mules or horses. 

A tariff of the prices to be paid for 
horses in most places is published in 
the Indicateurs. 

Those who are unable to ride or 
walk may be carried over the moun- 
tains in a " chaise-a-porteur " (Germ. 
Tragsessel ; It. Portantina), which is 
an arm-chair carried upon poles by 
two bearers, in the manner of a 
sedan. In the Bernese Obeiiand two 
bearers will frequently undertake to 
carry a lady of light weight for many 
successive days over the ordinary 
passes ; but, as a general rule, two, 
but in some places four, extra bearers 
must be taken to relieve by turns, 
and each man expects 6 fr. a-day, 
and 3 fr. for each day of return. 
This is a common but uncomfortable 
mode of locomotion. 

II. Swiss Inns. — Switzerland is 
well provided with inns. The great 
annual influx of strangers into the 
country is of the same importance to 
Switzerland that some additional 
branch of industry or commerce 
would be, and renders the profession 
of host most lucrative. Many of 
the Swiss innkeepers are very 
wealthy ; in a great part of the 
country they appear to be the only 
wealthy inhabitants. It is not un- 
common to find an individual in this 
capacity who is magistrate, and it 
has happened that they are persons 
of such influence in their canton or 
commune that it is difficult to obtain 
redress against them for an injury or 
act of insolence, owing either to the 
interest they possess with the courts, 
or to their being absolutely them- 
selves the justices. As a general rule, 
however, they are very respectable 
men, and no difficulties with them 
arise. 



In the following pages the inns 
which are believed by the editor to 
be best in any town are mentioned 
first. 

The following list of usual charges 
will serve to guide travellers, and 
may protect them from gross extor- 
tion and imposition. 

list of Charges of the first-class 
Swiss Hotels. 

Fr.fr. c. 



Tea or coffee, morning or evening, 
with bread, butter, and honey 
(eggs and meat charged sepa- 
rately) i 50 

Ditto in private, each person 

charged extra o 50 

Dejeuner a la fourchette (table 

d'hote) 2 50 

Table d'hote at 1, with vin ordinaire 3 50 

Ditto ditto, at 5 40 

Dinner in private (commande a 

l'avance dans la salle a manger) 5 o 
Servants, dinner or supper, 1 fr. 
50 c. ; breakfast or tea, 1 fr. 

Bougie 1 o 

Demi-bougie o 50 

Lampe de nuit o 50 

Bain de pied, chaud ou froid (un- 
reasonable, but usual) . . . o 50 
Servants (service de l'hotel), par 

jour par personne . 1 o 

From large families, who make 



some stay, so much is not expected. 

The charges for Booms vary ac- 
cording to their situation on the 
lower floors, and the views they 
command ; but a good suite of apart- 
ments, in first-rate inns, ought not 
to exceed 4 to 6 fr. a-day for a sit- 
ting-room or salon, and 3 fr. for 
each bed. A party of 3 or 4 persons 
staying a week or more, even in a 
first-rate hotel, should arrange not 
to pay more than 8 or 9 fr. each, 
board and lodging, including ser- 
vants, per diem. At Interlaken the 
charge for good board and lodging is 
not more than 6 fr. a-day ; and at 
some of the baths near Bex not more 
than 4 J fr. a-day for those who re- 
main some weeks. At some of the 
small inns in remote valleys the 
charges are absurdly low ; but oc- 



xxxi 



INTRODUCTORY 



INFORMATION. xxxii 



casionally the landlords in such places 
charge as high as in first-rate hotels 
in large towns. Such attempts at 
imposition may be best resisted by 
threatening to inform other tra- 
vellers. 

French, and some English, is al- 
most invariably spoken at the inns, 
even in the German cantons, except 
in remote parts, as in the side valleys 
of the Grisons. Nevertheless, the 
German language is a valuable ac- 
quisition to the traveller. 

It is often supposed, and perhaps 
correctly, that two sets of charges 
are made — one for natives, or Ger- 
mans, and another for the English ; 
on the principle that the latter have 
both longer purses and more nu- 
merous wants, and are more difficult 
to serve. 

12. Directions for Travellers — 
Precautions for Health. — The best 
season for travelling among the 
Alps is the months of July, Au- 
gust, and September, in which may, 
perhaps, be included the last half of 
June. The higher Alpine bridle- 
passes are scarcely clear of snow be-' 
fore the second week of June ; and 
before the middle of October snow 
almost invariably falls on the high 
Alps ; and though the weather is 
often still serene, the nights draw in 
so fast as to curtail, inconveniently, 
the day's journey. 

It is tiresome and unprofitable in 
the extreme to walk along a high 
road over a flat and monotonous 
country, where there is a carriage- 
road, and conveyances are to be had ; 
here it is best to ride ; the cost of a 
conveyance is counterbalanced by the 
economy of time. 

In a few spots on the Italian side, 
and in some spots on the north side 
of the Alps, especially the valley of 
the Rhone, there is malaria in marshy 
places and in the districts about the 



embouchures of rivers where they 
empty themselves into lakes, and tra- 
vellers should avoid sleeping in such 
districts. 

Precautions for Health. 

1. If possible, get into some degree 
of walking condition before leaving 
England. 

2. Walk moderately for the first 
week in Switzerland, till the feet are 
hardened, and the body is in training. 
Days, even weeks, are too commonly 
wasted by the consequences of sore 
feet, or over- work when out of train- 
ing. The feeling that urges a man 
to do more than he is fit for, under 
the excitement of pure air and change 
of scenery, is an example of a depraved 
and misleading instinct. 

3. Another example of fallacious 
instinct is the craving for water^to 
drink, when climbing hills under a 
hot snn. AVhat the body suffers 
from is a fever of the palate, and not 
a want of fluid. If this misleading 
instinct be trusted and followed, the 
fever will not be reduced, while, on 
the other hand, the digestion will be 
disordered. 

4. After a tiring walk, ending a 
little before dinner-time, wash all 
over with soap — hot water ; then 
dress, and lie down quietly, and try 
to go to sleep, even for 10 minutes, 
to quiet the circulation. Eat and 
drink moderately afterwards. 

5 . When fevered and thirsty buy 
a lemon, and squeeze it into a tum- 
bler half full of water, with sugar, 
and sip it, not gulp it, before going 
to bed. 

6. Sore feet. It is very bad ma- 
nagement ever to have them. Blis- 
ters are much relieved by rubbing 
them with brandy into which tallow 
has been dropped from a lighted 
candle. Hold the brandy in the hol- 
lowed palm of the hand, and on it 
drop the tallow. When the skin is 



xxxiii 1 3 . MAPS— 14. REQ UISITES FOB TRAVELLING, xxxiv 



broken, lie by till the place is healed. 
There is no other remedy. 

13. Maps. — LeutholcTs is the 
best for general purposes, for it is 
clear and fairly accurate. The old- 
fashioned Keller is clear and excellent 
for post-rds., but its mtns. are whol- 
ly conventional. Mountaineers who 
know the country and desire accuracy, 
minuteness, and compactness, at the 
cost of clearness, usually take Ziegler. 
It is a most conscientiously made 
map. There are spurious and in- 
ferior editions of many of these maps 
published in France or Germany, 
against which the purchaser must be 
on his guard. 

The Government Map of Swit- 
zerland — scale T ooUoo' or 2 "3 r( ^ s °f an 
inch to the mile, published under the 
direction of General Dufour, and sold 
by all the principal booksellers, and 
analogous to the English Ordnance 
Maps, is by far the best. It will be 
comprised in 25 sheets, of which 24 
have appeared, each sheet containing 
about 30 miles square, and costing 
from 2 to 6 fr. This map contains 
not only every road and every path 
of importance, but even every single 
house and barn. The execution of 
these maps is admirable : the moun- 
tains engraved are absolutely por- 
traits. No. 13 is the sheet still 
wanting. Travellers intending to 
diverge from the beaten track, with 
a view to explore any particular dis- 
trict, are advised to provide them- 
selves with the sheet of the govern- 
ment map in which it is included, 
and to write for it by post, to some 
good bookseller, such as Dalp, at 
Berne, if they have not got it. The 
map of Switzerland prefixed to this 
volume, is divided into numbered 
squares, which severally correspond 
to the sheets of the Government map. 
The sheets cost from 4 to 7 fr. each. 

Studer and Escher's geological 
Kp. Switz. 



maps are elaborate works, the result 
of immense labour. Studer has also 
published an excellent map of the 
country round Monte Rosa (Wagner, 
Berne), smaller but more correct 
than Schlagentweit's. The Swiss 
Alpine Club have issued admirable 
maps of Mont Blanc and of the 
glaciers of the Todi. 

The War Dep. of Italy has pub- 
lished maps of Savoy and Piedmont, 
in 8 sheets, 49 fr. They are worth- 
less in the high mts. This map is 
to be procured on a reduced scale. 
Perrin, of Chambery, has also pub- 
lished a map of Savoy. 

14. Requisites for Travelling, — It 
saves a world of trouble to have no 
other baggage than a knapsack ; one 
containing 3 or 4 flannel shirts, socks, 
slippers, alpaca coat, thin waistcoat 
and trousers, dressing materials, &c, 
need not exceed 10 lbs. A water- 
proof is not of much use to a pedes- 
trian, as it is too hot. A small 
plaid of best quality, and therefore 
light, or else a paletot, straps on to 
the outside of the knapsack. 

A small bag or portmanteau will 
contain smarter clothes and a flat hat 
for use in large towns. This can be 
sent on from place to place. 

The half-boots ought to be double- 
soled, provided with hobnails in 3 or 4 
rows, and without iron heels, which 
are dangerous, and liable to slip on 
rocks. If the boots come to grief, 
Swiss bootmakers are capable of satis- 
fying an Englishman's wants. 

A telescope is not of much use, as 
the view is seldom minute. A small 
good opera-glass is better. 

15. Objects most deserving of 
Notice in Switzerland. — There are 
many points of view whence the 
semicircular array of Alpine peaks, 
presented at once to the eye, extends 
for more than 120 m., from the Mont 
Blanc to the Titlis, and comprises 
between 200 and 300 distinct sum- 

6 



INTRODUCTORY 



INFORMATION. xxxvi 



mits, capped with snow, or bristling 
with bare rocks, having their inter- 
stices filled with perpetual glaciers. 



List of Heights 
Alpine 
Mountains 

Albis . . . 

Becea di Nona 
*Berne 

Chaumont 

Dole . . 
*Faulliorn . 

Generoso . 

Hauenstein 

Motterone 

Niesen . 
*Pilatus 
*Rigi 

Salvadore . 

Weissenstein 



commanding distant 
panoramas. 

near to 
. Zurich . 
. Aosta . 
. Berne 
. Neuchatel 
. Geneva . 
Grindelwald 



Rte. 
13 
134 
24 
48 
55 
25A 



Lake of Como 114 



Olten. 
Baveno . 
Thun 
Lucerne . 
Lucerne . 
Lugano . 
Soleure . 



4 
118 
25 
16 
57 
ii5 
3 



Mountains accessible to moderate 
climbers, commanding near viev:s. 

Mountains near to Rte. 

*iEggischhorn . . Viesch . . 28 

Arpitetta Alp. . Einfisch Thai 129 

*Bella Tola. . . St. Luc . .129 

Breven . . . Chamouni . 138 

Cramont . . ". Courmayeur 134* 

Dreizehntenhorn . TurtmanThali29 

*Gorner Grat . . Zermatt . .127 

fGrauhaupt . . Gressonay . 124 

fMittelhorn . . Zermatt . .127 

*Piz Languard . . Pontresina . 96 

*Pierre a voir . . Martigny . 56 

fSchilthorn . . Murren . . 25A 

fSentis .... Appenzell . 68 

Sidelhorn . . . Grimsel . . 26 

fTitlis .... Engstlen . 31 

*Torrenthorn . . Lenkerbad . 37 

Those marked with a f are the more 
difficult. 

See the woodcuts of views from those 
marked with a *. 

Principal Waterfalls. 
Rte. 



Giessbach . 25A 
Handeck . 26 
Pianazzo or Me- 
dessimo . 87 
Reichenbach 25A 
Sallenche . 138 



Rte. 

Sandbach . . 74 
Schaffhausen 7 
Schmadribach 25 a 
Staubbach . 25A 
Tosa ... 62 



Glacier Passes. 
Those that are the grandest and 
yet feasible to others besides first- 
rate mountaineers, and are also very 
useful passes, are — 



Rte. Rte. 

Col de Collon . 131 Theodule . .128 

Col de Geant . 138 Tschingel . .55 

Moro . . .122 Weiss Thor . 138 
Strahleck . . 27 

(The Moro, though superlatively 
grand, is not strictly a glacier pass, 
and is very easy. The Theodule is 
the next easiest.) 

Halting-places, 

Good Inns, close to fine scenery and 
pleasant walks, suitable for a stay of 
some days. 

AA are the very best. 

b are good mountain- quarters. 

Rte. 

./Eggischhorn ... . 28 a 

Bel Alp 28 b 

Bex (Montchalet) . . . . 56 a 

Byron Hotel (L. Geneva) . . 55 aa 

Chamouni ij8 aa 

Champery 144 

Comballas . . .... 4? b 

Como Lake (several) . . . 115 aa 

Courmayeur 134 a 

Diablerets 45 a 

Engelberg 31 a 

Engstlen 32 b 

Evolena 130 b 

Fobello 123 b 

Geneva Lake, head of, several 

pensions 28 A 

Gervais, St 138 a 

Getroz (Val de Bagnes) . . . 1 36 b ? 

Giessbach 25A aa 

Glion (L. Geneva) .... 28 a 

Gressonay 124 b 

Grindelwald , ... 25A aa 

Kandersteg ..... 37 b 

Luc, St 129 a 

Lugano 115 aa 

Moritz, St 92 a 

Miirren 25A a 

Macugnaga 121 a 

Ouchy 55 a a 

Pontresina 96 b 

Presa , 96 b 

Rag*»tz 66 a 

Reichenbach 25 A A 

Rhone Glacier Inn .... 26 A 

RigiKaltbad 15 aa 

„ Scheideck 15 A 

Rosenlaui . . . . . . 25 a a 

Saas . 122 b 

Seelisberg 18 a 

Stachelberg 7 2 A 

Stresa (L. Maggiore) . . .111 a a 

Weissbad 

Zermatt . .... 127 a 



xxxvii HEIGHTS OF MOUNTAINS AND PASSES, xxxviii 



HEIGHTS OF THE PRINCIPAL MOUNTAINS, LAKES, 
AND PASSES, ABOVE THE LEVEL OF THE SEA. 

Taken principally from 1 Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers/ in English feet. 



Mountains. 

Feet. 

Gaurisankar or Deodunga (Nepal) 29,002 

Aconcagua (Chile) 23,910 

Mount St. Elias (North America) 17,850 
Pico de Teyde (Teneriffe) . . .12,205 

Gross Glockner (Tyrol and Ca- 

rinthia) . 12,956 

Mulhacen (Sierra Nevada) . . 11,664 
Marmolata (Italian Tyrol) . (?) 11 ,550 
Maladetta (Pyrenees) . . . (?) 11,168 

Etna (Sicily) 10,872 

Ruska Poyano (Carpathians) . . 9,912 
Schneehatten (Norway) . . . 8,102 
Orafa Jokull (Iceland) .... 6,200 
Ben Nevis (Scotland) .... 4,406 

Snowdon (Wales) 3, 590 

Curran Tuhol (Ireland) . . . 3,405 

Mont Blanc 15,784 

Monte Rosa 15,223 

Dom (Misclmbelhorner) . . . 14,935 

Lyskamm 14,889 

Weisshorn 14,804 

Matterhorn . , 14,705 

Dent Blanche ...... 14,322 

Mont Combin Graffeneire) . . 14,134 
Finsteraar Horn . . . . . 14,039 

Aletschhorn 13,803 

Jungfrau 13,671 

Mont Pelvoux , 13,468 

Schreckhoni 1 3,394 

Bernina x 3, 2 97 

Weiss Mies 13,349 

Aiguille du Geant 13,101 

Grivola 13,003 

Nesthorn . „ . . 12,966 

Monte Viso 12,586 

Monte delle Disgrazie .... 12,060 

Blumlis Alp 12,041 

Todi 11,883 

Roche Melon (Mont Cenis) . . 11,590 

Titlis 10,634 

Becca di Nona . . . . . . . 10,385 

Gorner Grat 10,290 

Buet 10,206 

Torren thorn . . . . . . . 9,876 

/Eggischhom 9,657 



Feet. 

Sidelhorn 9,457 

Cramont 9,040 

Faulhorn 8,812 

Breven 8,380 

Sentis 8,223 

Niesen 7,765 

Pilatus 7.315 

Flegere 6,105 

Rigi 5,9 10 

Monte Generoso 5,561 

Dole 5,520 

Saleve 4,54* 

Weissenstein 4,230 



Lakes. 

Schwartzer See 8,59? 

Dauben See 7,244 

Silser . 6,000 

Joux 3,210 

Egeri 2,360 

Lungern 2,165 

Brienz 1,781 

Thun 1,755 

Sarnen 1,715 

Morat ........ 1,442 

Wallenstadt 1,420 

Neuch&tel 1,420 

Bienne 1,410 

Lucerne 1,406 

Zug . . 1,400 

Constance 1,385 

Zurich 1,310 

Orta 1,150 

Geneva 1,142 

Lugano . v . . . . . . . 937 

Bourget 762 

Como 692 

Maggiore 680 



Passes. 



Adler Pass . 
Weiss Thor . 
Triftjoch . 
Col d'Erin 
Col du Geant 



12,461 
11,851 
11,601 
11,408 
11,146 



xxxix INTRODUCTOR Y INFORMATION. xl 



Feet. 

St. Theodule Pass ... . 10,899 

Collon 10,333 

Strahleck 9,75° 

Moro 9,640 

Col de Ferret 8,409 

Col de la Seigne 8,247 

St. Bernard 8,200 

Col du Bonhomme 8,195 

Furca 8,150 

Kawyl 7,960 

Nufenen 7,95° 

Panixer 7,940 

Bernina 7,695 

Albula 7,680 

Julier 7,625 

Susten 7560 

Col de Balnie 7,550 

Gemini 7,54° 



Feet. 

! Grirnsel 7,530 

Sanetsch 7,367 

I Joch 7,34o 

[ Kinzig Culm 7,280 

; Ober Alp . 7,140 

I Bernardin 7,0 io 

! Spliigin 6,940 

' Cenis 6,825 

St. Gotthard 6, 808 

Surenen 6,720 

Wengern Alp 6,690 

Simplon 6,636 

i Scheideck, Hasli 6,480 

Lukmanier ....... 6,340 

Maloja ........ 6,060 

Dent de Jaman 4,855 

i Briinig 3,668 

I Unter Hauenstein 2,260 



KNAPSACK GUIDE 

FOR 

SWITZERLAND. 



SECTION I 



Rte. 1,— BASLE. — BASLE to 
BIENNE, by the VAL MOU- 
TIERS (MUNSTER THAL) 
and to BERNE. 

Basle or Bale. (Germ. Basel, 
Ital. Basilea.) Pop. 41,000. 

Inns : (a) Trois Bois (Drei Kb'nige), on 
the Rhine, complained of ; Schweitzer 
Hof, close to Central rly. stat. ; (£>) Tete 
d'Or, facing the bridge; (c) Couronne; 
(d) Cigogne, in the fish market ; and (J ) 
Sauvage, in the town ; Baslerhof, oppo- 
site Baden rly. stat. A good Cafe by the 
Trois Eois. 



English Church service in the church 
of St. Martin, not far from the bridge, on 
Sundays twice. 

Fhysician.—Dr. Jung. 

Beadin g-room— -Sch weighau ser's, op- 
posite the Trois Hois : newspapers, guide- 
books, maps, and views. 

Fishing. -Good trout and grayling in 
the Birs, and also in the Wiese, 3 m. from 
Basle, on the 1. bank of the Rhine. 

Basle is built on the Eliine, 
which rushes past in a full, broad, 
and light green flood. Great Basle 
on the 1. bank and Little Basle 
on the rt., united by a bridge, 




Kp. Switz. 



3 



Ete. 1.— BASLE 



CATHEDRAL* 



4 



with a few miles of territory, form 
the modern half-canton called 
Basle-town. The town is old, 
and retains some relics of anti- 
quity, though its walls have been 
thrown down ; its streets are well 
supplied by Fountains. There is 
much wealth here — rich bankers 
and merchants. Its 'position in 
an angle of Switzerland, be- 
tween France and Germany, 
near the point where the .Rhine 
first becomes navigable, gives 
it the chief transit trade of 
the whole country. Manufactures, 
of riband and paper. It has long- 
been a flourishing mercantile 
city ; much banking and funding 
business is carried on here. 

Cathedral, or Minister (Sexton 
in a house opposite the W. door), 
on the high bank 1. of the Rhine, 
distinguished by its 2 spires 
(220 ft. high), and the deep-red 
sandstone of which it is built, is 
a mixture of Romanesque and 
Pointed styles. It was begun by 
the Empr. Henry II. in 10 10. 
The oldest existing part is 12th 
centy. It was partly rebuilt in 
the beginning of the 15th, after 
an earthquake. Obs. the W. front, 
with its towers, its equestrian 
statues of St. George and St. 
Martin, and other almost gro- 
tesque carvings, the N. portal of 
St. Gallus, and rose, or Wheel of 
Fortune, window over it. The 
interior was completely restored 
in 1857 by private subscrip- 
tions. The Gothic roodloft 
(1381) now supports tbe Organ, 
new 1858, occasionally played 
from 6 to 7 p.m., i fr. admission. 
PwZ2?#(i424), of one piece of stone, 
is an elaborate work. Stained- 
glass windows, modern and not 
very successful. Font (1465) ; 
opposite it Monument of Erasmus 
against a pillar. Choir is raised 



upon a crypt. Tomb of Em- 
press Anne (1281) in the choir. 
Many ancient tombs of noble 
and royal persons round the 
nave, on the N. side, and in 
the crypt. Concilium's Saal or 
chapter-house, reached by a stair- 
case out of the choir : here 
meetings of the Council of Basle 
were held 1429-48. It is now 
a museum, and contains plaster 
casts, old fmniture of Erasmus, 
and the 6 remaining fresco frag- 
ments of the original Dance of 
Death (painted 1409 in remem- 
brance of the plague), from the 
Dominican Church in Basle, and 
coloured drawings of the whole 
series of figures. The Dance of 
Death has been attributed to 
Holbein, but it existed long- 
before his birth. See the ex- 
tensive * Cloisters (late 14th and 
15 th cent.), up and down which 
Erasmus may have paced, filled 
with interesting tombs; among 
them those of the 3 reformers, 
(Ecolampadius (Hausschein), 
Grynseus, and Meyer. 

Terrace, called Die Pfah, be- 
hind the Minster, 75 ft. above 
the river, is planted with chesnut- 
trees. View over the Rhine, the 
town, and the Black Forest hills, 
among them the Blauen. Close 
to it is the 

Club (Lesegesellschdft) — in- 
cluding a reading-room; 80 
papers are taken in. 

In the street leading from the 
bridge to the Minister is the 
Museum (open Sundays 10-12, 
Wednesdays 2-4 ; at other times 
1 fr. admittance), a handsome 
building, remarkable for its col- 
lection of Paintings and Drawings 
by the younger Holbein. [Hol- 
bein * was born at Augsburg in 

* Sec Kitgler's « Handbook of Painting,' 
vol. ii., German School. 



5 Bte. I.— BASLE: MUSEUM. 6 



1489, and removed about 15 17 
to Basle. The want of encourage- 
ment drove him hence to seek 
his fortune in England, where he 
met with high patronage, as is 
well known. Basle showed its 
esteem for his talents by grant- 
ing him a salary of 50 gulden 
per annum, which was paid him 
even when in England.] Obs. 
among Holbein's paintings the 
Passion of Christ in 8 subjects ; 
a dead Christ ; Holbein's Wife 
and Children, with countenances 
full of misery (1526); portraits 
of Erasmus, of Froben the printer, 
of a Mile, von OfFenburg, inscribed 
"Lais Corinthiaca ;" two repre- 
sentations of a School, painted 
by Holbein at the age of 14, 
as a sign over a schoolmaster's 
door. Among Holbein's Drawings 
are his own portrait — a work of 
the very highest excellence ; heads 
of the family Meyer, sketched for 
the picture now in the Dresden 
Gallery ; original sketch for the 
famous picture of the family of 
Sir Thomas More — the names 
of the different personages are 
written on their dresses ; &c. 
&c. 

Antiquities ; &c, from Augst, 
the site of the Roman Augusta 
Bauracorum, 7 m. from Basle (see 
Rte. 4), Ch. Plate, Mexican An- 
tiquities, &c. 

Public Library, 80,000 vols. 
(4000 MSS.), good catalogue) is 
in the same building. Apply 
early, as the librarian is usually 
absent in the afternoon. 

University, opposite the Musee, 
f. 1460, was the first great semi- 
nary for the advancement of 
learning in Switzerland : it num- 
bered among its professors Eras- 
mus, Euler and Bernouilli the 
mathematicians, who were na- 
tives of Basle, and Schonbein, the 



discoverer of gun-cotton and of 
ozone. 

FischmarM, a small square. See 
the Gothic fountain in it. 

Rathliaus, in the Market-place 
(1508), late Gothic. In the 
Great Council-room are some 
humorous reliefs carved in wood 
by Mat. Giger (1609). 

Post Office in the adjoining 
street (Freie Strasse) preserves 
in it some fragments of the old 
Kaufliaus. Passing through it, 
up a court-yard, is the Schmiede 
Zunft, or Smiths' Hall; and in 
the same street is another old 
hall, the Gdrtneren Zunft. The 
attendants are glad to show them 
for a few sous. Basle abounds 
in buildings of the 16th and 17th 
centuries. 

Arsenal contains some ancient 
armour (suit worn by Charles 
the Bold at Nancy), &c, and 
other curiosities. 

Spalenthor, i.e. St. Paulusthor, 
or St. Paul's Gate (1370), retains 
its advanced work or Barbican, 
similar to that at York, and* 
with its double portcullis and 
two flanking towers, is particu- 
larly picturesque. The Spatilin 
Fountain, a bronze figure of a 
bag-piper, is Holbein's design. 

St. Elizabeth is a modern Gothic 
church (1863), built at the cost 
of a Balois merchant, Ch. Merian 
Burkhardt (d. 1858). 

Erasmus resided in the house 
Zum Luft, and Frobenius printed 
in it one of the first Bibles. 
The African traveller Burclchardt 
was born here. 

Near the Club called Sommer 
Casino, buy and the CEschcnPlatz, 
E. of the town, is a monument 
recording the battle of St. Jacob. 

History. — Basle was an impe- 
rial German town, governed by 
its bishops. It joined the Swiss 
b 2 



7 



Bte. 1.— BASLE to BIENNE. 



8 



—The Swiss Protestant Mis- 
sionary and Bible Society has it3 
head-quarters at Basle. Attached 
to it is the School for Mission- 
aries at Crisehona, conspicuously 
placed on a hill about 4 m. E. 
of Basle, an interesting establish- 
ment. 



Basle to Bienne by the Minister 
Thai, and to Berne. 

BASLE. Eng. m. Eng. m. 

I Delemont . 23 Sonceboz . .'ill 
Miinster . . Bienne . . 10 

Diligence and post road, 54 Eng. m. 
iot hrs. = 1 1 day's journey by Voi- 
turier. Sleeping-places, Tavannes or 
MaJIeray. Bienne to Berne, Rail direct 
in 1 hr. 22 m. 

Yal Moutiers (Miinster Thai) 
is as romantic as any in the Jura, 
and is especially remarkable for 
the succession of rocky defiles 
(cruses) through which the road 
runs. They alternate with basins. 
There are forests above and mea- 
dows below, enlivened by villages, 
mills, and forges. The Komans 
made a road through it from Aven- 
ticum, then Helvetian capital, 
to Angst, their fortified outpost 
on the Rhine. 



confederation in 1501; and its 
bishops were expelled. The 
government then fell to the aris- 
tocratic burghers, whose authority 
was destroyed in 1798, partially 
restored in 18 14, and again de- 
stroyed in 1848. 

The dissensions soon after the 
Revolution of 1830 between the 
inhabitants of the town of Basle 
and those of the country led to a 
civil war. After several bloody 
battles (1832), by a decree of 
the Diet a final separation was | 
made. Basle Campagne has two- 
thirds of the territory and Lies- 
thai for its capital. Each sends 
a deputy to the Diet ; but the 
two divisions enjoy only half a 
vote each, and when the deputies 
of the two divisions take opposite 
sides (which is generally the case) 
their vote does not count. 

Railways. The Central Station, 
S.W. side of Basle, 1 m. from the Trois 
Rois, includes:— a. The French lines 
(X.B. Swiss money not taken — the 
Paris time is about 22 min. behind Basle 
time) : direct line to Paris by Mulhouse 
and Troy es: Express to Paris in 13 hrs. 
40 nun. ; carriages on the American plan. 
To Strasburg and Paris, 17 hrs. b. Siviss 
lines : to Berne (Rte. 5), Lucerne (Rte. 4), 
Zurich (Rte. 6), Bienne (Rte. 3). The 
Baden Terminus in Klein Basel, also 
1 m. N. from the bridge, includes 
c. German line : to Baden, Freiburg, 
Strasburg, and Heidelberg, Frankfort, 
&c. &c. d. Siciss : to Zurich by Waldshut 
and Turgi: to Schaffhausen, the Rhine 
Falls, and Constance (Rte. 7). 

Environs. — 

Huningen, 3 ni., close to the rly. 
stat. of St. Louis (in France), is 
the principal establishment of 
fish-culture for collecting, pre- 
serving, and distributing fish- 
eggs. 2 r, 600,000 impregnated 
ova were spread, 1860-2, through 
the rivers of France, by its 
agency. 

L'Etablissement des Missions. 



Basle. — As long as our route 
runs through Basle Campagne, 
i.e. for 4 or 5 in., it passes dirty 
villages and mean houses. 

St. Jacob : a small Gothic cross 1 m. 
commemorates the battle of St. 
Jacob, fought 1444. (See Bte. 4.) 

Reinach. 2 m. to the E., on 4 m. 

the opposite bank of the Birs, is 
the battle-field of Dornoch, where 
the Swiss beat a large Austrian 
force in 1499, during the Suabian 
war. The bone-house, near the 
Capuchin convent, is filled with 
skulls gathered from the field. 



9 



Bte. 1 — BASLE to BIENNE. 



10 



2 m. Aesch. The road now enters 
I'Eveche, which anciently be- 
longed to the Prince Bishop of 
Basle, and the valley contracts. 
Castles of Anger stein and Zivingen 
are passed before 

8 m. Laufen (Lin : Sonne), a dirty 
old walled village. 

9 m. Soyhiere (Germ. Saugem). 
{Inn : Croix Blanche, tolerable.) 
Castle in ruins. Here is the 
division between German and 
French languages. 

Beyond Bellerive, a contracted 
pass, surmounted rt. by a convent, 
leads into the open basin of 

3 m. Delemont (Delsberg). (Inn: 
Bear.) ^Diligence daily to Por- 
rentruy (Pruntrut) — Inn, Ours, 
passing round the base of Mont 
Terrible.] It is unnecessary to 

- pass through Delemont, as our 
road continues by the Birs, and 
enters a defile grander than any 
that have preceded it. This is 
the true commencement of the 
Val Moutier. In the midst are 
the iron-furnaces of 

2 m. Courrendelin (Germ. Bennen- 
dorf.) (Inn : Hirsch.) Iron ore in 
granular red masses, from the 
size of a pea to that of a cherry. 
The rent by which the Jura has 
been cleft to allow a passage for 
the Birs, shows strata of lime- 
stone (Jura-kalk) in a nearly ver- 
tical position, like gigantic walls 
on each side of the road. The 
gorge terminates in the open basin 
of Moutier. 

5]m. Moutier Grandval (Minister) 
— (Inn : Krone) — named from an 
ancient Minster of St. Germanus 
on the height, founded in the 7th 
centy., now falling to ruin. [To 
summit of the Weissenstein (lite. 



3), car-road 10 nr., 2 hrs., up-hill 
nearly the whole way : car and 2 
horses from Moutiers, to go and 
return, 20 fr. It passes Grandval 
(Grossau) and Gansbrunnen.] 

Hence through another grand 
defile. To this succeeds a little 
plain, at the head of which is 

Court (Inn: Bar). The valley 4 m. 
E., called Chaluat (Tschaywoj, 
is inhabited by the descendants 
of the Anabaptists expelled from 
Berne in 1 708-1 1. They are dis- 
tinguished by their industry and 
simple manners. [Hence a rough 
path leads in 2J-3 hrs. directly 
over the hills, a climb of 2000 ft., 
to Beuchenette on the old high 
road 6 m. from Bienne. Paths 
start also from Sorvillier, Bevil- 
lard, and Malleray. Vieio from 
the hill resembles that from the 
Weissenstein, which lies on same 
ridge 10 m. to the E. 

Malleray (Lion d'Or, a good 3 m. 
Inn ; capital trout). Convenient 
sleeping-places on this journey 
either here or at 

Tavannes, or Dachsfelden 4 m. 
(Inns : Couronne ; Croix). The 
road now quits the Birs, and 
mounts an ascent, in the middle 
of which it passes through the 
natural tunnel of 

Pierre Pertuis (Pertusa = 1 m. 
bored through). It is probably a 
natural opening in the rock, en- 
larged by M. Durmius Pater nus, 
Prefect of the K. colony Aventi- 
cum, as the restored Roman 
inscription on the N. side states. 
It stood on the boundary between 
the Bauraci, who extended to 
Bale, and the Sequani. The 
pass was fortified by the Aus- 
trian s in 181 3, Here is the wa- 
tershed (2598 ft.) dividing the 



11 



Rte. 3.— BASLE to SOLEURE and BIENNE. 



12 



streams of the Birs from those of 
the Suze. Descending to 

ljm. Sonceboz — (Inn; Couronne, 
good) — a village in the Val St. 
Imier (Germ. Erguel) [up which 
runs a good road to Chaux de 
Fonds, diligence 3 times a day 
(Rte. 50)], the road to Bienne 
passes the forges of Reuchenette 
in the valley below. *View 
from the last slope of the Jura, 
at Frinvilliers, on the old road, 
over Bienne and its lake to the 
Alps. On the Jura limestone, 
close to the road, are lying num- 
bers of granite boulders that 
have travelled from the Mt. Blanc 
range. 

10m. Bienne (Germ. Biel). — Inns: 
*Couronne; H. duJura; Croix 
Blanche. At the foot of the J ura, 
1 m. from the lake of Bienne 
(Rte. 49). 6553 Inhab. It is 
surrounded by walls and watch- 
towers, and is approached by 
shady avenues. The town be- 
longed to the Bishop of Basle, 
but the citizens formed an al- 
liance with Berne in r3 52, in 
revenge for which the town was 
burnt by then liege lord. The 
Reformation further weakened 
its connection with its ecclesi- 
astical ruler, and by the 17th 
century his authority became 
nominal. 

[Ascent of the Chasseral 
(Gestler) (see Rte. 49), 5279 ft., 
one of the highest of the Jura, 
3856 ft. above the lake. Char- 
road to Nodz, 3 hrs. ; thence a 
foot-path, 1 hr., to the top. View, 
Bernese Alps, rt. Mont Blanc, 1. 
Pilatus and Rigi. You may de- 
scend to Neuville, at the other 
end of the lake, via Noclz.] 

Ilailway to Neuchatel and Tverdun 
(Rte. 49), thence to Lausanne and to 
Geneva. 



Railway to Basle by Solenre. 

Railway direct from Bienne to Berne 
(trains in i£ hr.) crosses, near Briegg 
Stat., the Zihl (Thiele), which runs out 
of the lake of Bienne at Nydau into the 
Aar, after a course of 5 or 6 m. The 
rly. next crosses the Aar by a lattice 
bridge (800 ft.), and ascends its rt. bank 
to 

Lyss Stat. [4 in. S. of this is Aarberg, 
a walled town with castle nearly sur- 
rounded by the Aar (Inn, Couronne), 
Zollikoffen, Junct. Stat, on the Swiss 
Central Rly. 



Rte- 3.— BASLE to SOLEURE 
and BIENNE, by Railway. 
—ASCENT of the WEISS- 
ENSTEIN. 

BASLE to m. ■ sr. 

Olten . . .23 Soleure ... 9 
Herzogenbuch- Bienne . . .14 
see ... 17 

Basle to Olten and Aarburg as 
in Ete. 4. Thence to 

Herzogenbuchsee Junct. Stat. -iO m. 
(Eailway Restaurant). Here 
our line leaves the Berne line 
(Rte. 5), and turns W., crossing 
the Grosse Enxme. 5 m. to the 
front is seen the hotel on the 
Weissenstein. The Aar is crossed 
before reaching 

Soleure Stat. (Germ. Solo- 9 111. 
thnrn) — {Inns: Couronne, good 
and moderate ; Cerf ; La Tour) — 
on the Aar, at the foot of the 
Jura ; 6000 Inhab. (200 Protest- 
ants). It is a dull town. 

Cathedral of St. TJrsus (a soldier 
of the Theban legion), modern 
Italian, Pisoni architect, 1762. 



13 Bte. 3,— SOLEURE— WEISSENSTEIN. 



n 



See in the Sacristy Robes and 
Missals. 

Clock tower (Zeitglockenthurm) : 
its square and solid base may 
owe its origin to the Burgundian 
kings. If we are to believe the 
two Latin verses on the front of 
this building, Soleure is the most 
ancient city in N.W. Europe 
except Treves : 

In Celtis nihil est Solodoro antiquius, unis 
Exceptis Treviris, quorum ego dicta 
soror. 

Arsenal (Zeughaus) (b. 1580), 
not far from the Cathedral, con- 
tains the best ancient armour 
in Switzerland (900 suits) ; also 
standards, taken by the Swiss 
in their victories over the Bur- 
gundians and Austrians. More 
than 100 heads are said to have 
fallen under an executioner s sword 
here preserved. Several wall- 
pieces, or long swivels for the 
defence of a fortress, are curious. 

Museum, in the Waisenhaus, 
close to the bridge, contains the 
finest collection of Jura fossils in 
existence. 

The Boman Catholic Bishop 
of Basle lives here. The clergy 
are powerful. There are several 
convents at Soleure. The sisters 
of St. Joseph's Nunnery, outside 
the Berne gate, make artificial 
flowers and sweetmeats, which 
they sell at the grating. 

Thaddeus Kosciusko, the Pole, 
spent the last years of his life 
in a house, 10, Bieler Street, near 
the Post Office. 



Excursions. 

Hermitage of St. Verena, 2 m. 
N.E. of Soleure, beyond St. Nicho- 
las, at the end of a pretty valley. 
The paths were made by French 
emigres, who, at the outbreak of 



the French Revolution, sought an 
asylum here. The valley abounds 
in grottoes, partly natural, partly 
artificial ; and at the end, within 
a natural shelf of over-arching 
cliff, stands the little Chapel of 
St. Verena ; behind the altar a 
small cave has been cut in the 
rock ; it contains a representation 
of the holy sepulchre. 

Weissenstein (White-rock), pro- 
bably named from its white cliffs 
of limestone, 8 m., 3 hrs. ascent, 
is immediately behind the town. 

Chars-a-banc reach it through Lagen- 
dorf and Oberdorf. Pedestrians may find 
a short cut, and reach the top easily in 
21 hrs. ; they may visit the Hermitage 
of St. Verena in their way to or fro. 
Guide or porter, 5 fr. ; 3 more if he is 
detained for the night. 

Hotel and Bath-house, 3950 ft. 
(2640 above the Aar) (pension 
6 fr.), good but homely ; 30 beds ; 
goat's whey " cure ; " milk and 
cream in perfection. Many visitors 
for one night to see sunrise. View 
from the Inn, and from the sum- 
mit (Hasenmatte), ijhr. walkW. 
of it, is one of the finest distant 
prospects of the Alps. See 3 
lakes, and the Alps from Sentis 
to Mt. Blanc. 

A char-road descends the 1ST. flank of 
the Weissenstein, into the Val Moutiers 
(Rte. 1). 

Leaving Soleure, the railroad 
keeps the Aar to the 1., and the S. 
base of the Jura to the rt. The 
inn on the top of the Weissen- 
stein continues long in sight 

Baths of Grange (Grenchen),7 m. 
Stat, rt., a large building. 

Bienne Stat. (Kte. 1.) 8 m. 

Bienne to Neuchfitel and Geneva, in 
Rte. 49. 



13 



Rte. 4.— BASLE to LUCERNE. 



1G 



Ete. 4. — BASLE to LUCERNE, 
by the Central Swiss Kail- 
way. 

BASLE to if, m. 
Olten ... 23 Sernpach . . 22 
Aarburg . . 2 Lucerne . . 9 

5 trains daily, fast in j| hrs., slow in 
4£ hrs. 

Basle (Ete. 1). — The rly. keeps 
the Rhine to Ike 1., and crosses 
tke Birs on a lattice bridge. 1. 
See tke monument on tke battle- 
field of St. Jacob, where, in 1444, 
1600 Swiss had tke boldness to 
attack, and tke courage to with- 
stand for 10 hrs., a French army 
tenfold more numerous, com- 
manded by the Dauphin, after- 
wards Louis XI. Only 10 of the 
Swiss escaped alive ; the rest 
were left dead on the field, along 
with thrice their own number of 
foes, whom they had slain. 

4 m. Pratteln Sta t. The rly. turns 
from the flat Rhine valley, and 
follows the kttle river Ergolz. 

[2 m. E. of Pratteln is Angst, 
built on both sides of tbe small 
river Ergolz, on the site of 
the Roman Augusta Rauraco- 
rum, as proved by the Roman 
remains that are discovered wher- 
ever the ground is turned up. 
There are slight indications of an 
amphitheatre in some pleasure- 
grounds, and other relics, which 
the proprietor of the ground has 
arranged in the style of a tea- 
garden.] 

4 m. Liestal Stat. (Inns not good : 
Falke ; Schliissel) was finally se- 
parated from Basle in 1833. It 
is a dirty, uninteresting town of 
3400 Inhab., and the seat of 



government of Basle Campagne, 
which includes 5 3 parishes, with 
about 36,000 Inhab. Council- 
house (Rathstube) : here are cu- 
rious paintings and sentences on 
the walls, and Charles the Bold's 
cup taken at Nancy. 

The rly. now fairly enters a 
mountain valley. 

Sissach Stat The rly. ascends 4 
the valley by a gradient of 1 in 
20, and constantly rises until it 
looks down upon the village of 

Bukten Stat. (Inn: Halb 
Mond), beyond which is a tunnel 
900 ft. long; 1. rise the pic- 
turesque ruins of the Castle of 
Homburg, the scenery becoming 
wilder and the mountains higher. 

Laufelfingen Stat Close to 6 
this the tunnel, 2700 yards, under 
the Unter-Hauenstein, is entered. 

[The Hauenstein Pass (Inn at 
the top) was formerly important. 
View of the Alps from the top of 
it is entirely lost from the rly., 
but travellers may get out at 
Laufelfingen and walk over to 
Olten, 8 m., by FroMmrg ; half- 
way a mountain inn, and fine 
point of view.] 

On emerging from the tunnel 
we enter the valley of Trimlachj 
with a distant view of the Appen- 
zell mountains. Soon afterwards 
we open into a wider valley, and, 
looking over Olteu, the first view 
rt. of the Bernese Alps is obtained. 
The rly. here makes a curve 
of more than half a circle, and, 
crossing the river Aar, reaches 

Olten June. Stat. (Inns: H. 
von Arx, close to stat. ; *Buffet, 
Thurm). Pop. 2340. Railways 
to Zurich by Aaran and Baden, 

2 hrs. ; to Soleure and Bienne, 

3 hrs. ; to Berne, 2 hrs ; to Lu- 
cerne, 2 hrs, [Passengers for 



17 



Rte. 4. — BASLE 



to LUCERNE. 



IS 



Berne, Lucerne, or Bienne, 
change carriages.] Ely. depot 
and workshops. Iron bridge of 
3 arches over the Aar. Our rly. 
makes a circuit between the 
hills, and keeps the Aar more 
or less closely to the rt., to 

Aarburg Stat. (Inns: Bar; 
Krone), a neat town of 1500 
Inhab., almost rebuilt since a 
fire in 1840. Castle on a hill, 
fortified 1660, serves as a military 
storehouse for the Swiss Con- 
federation. Outside the town is 
a cotton factory, and a wire 
bridge over the Aar. 

[Here the rly. branches off to 
Berne (Rte. 5), and to Soleure 
(Rte. 3), though the carriages 
are changed at Olten.] 

The railroad leaves the Aar 
and follows a pretty valley. The 
walls of many of its substantial- 
looking houses are covered with 
tiles of wood overlapping each 
other like fishes ''scales. In front, 
rt., the snowy Alps. 

3 m. Zofingen Stat. (Inns : Cheval 
Blanc (Rossli) ; Ochs), a town 
of 3172 Inhab. Library con- 
tains autograph letters of Swiss 
reformers, and drawings by the 
Swiss Society of Artists. Mag- 
nificent lime-trees. A ball-room 
in the branches. 

A fragment of the castle of 
Reiden, and a tree beside it, 
become conspicuous before 

3 m. Reiden Stat. The Parsonage 
was originally the house of the 
Knights of Malta. 

2 m. Dagmersellen Stat. (Inn: Lion, 
good and clean). 

2 m. Nebikon Stat. Between here 
and Wauwill Stat, a good view of 
th e Bernese chain — Monch , Ei ger, 
1. ; Jungfrau, centre ; Altels, rt. 

6 m, Sursee Stat, The gate-towers 



still bear the eagle of Austria. 
Rathhaus, much dilapitated, re- 
sembles the old Tolbooth of 
Edinburgh. Sursee is situated 
at the N. extremity of the Lake 
of Sempach, the W. shore of which 
is skirted by the rly. In 1805 
the water was partly let off to 
gain land along its banks; thus 
its form is somewhat altered 
from what it was at the time of 
the battle. The rly. runs along 
its W. shore to 

Nothwyl Stat. At Buttisholz, 3 m. 
3 m. rt., is a mound called the 
English barrow, because it con- 
tains the bones of 3000 Free 
Companions, who had served on 
the English side in the wars be- 
tween England and France, who 
were defeated here (1376) by 
the peasants of Entlibuch. 

Sempach Stat. [ 1 } m. from th e 3 m . 
rly. stat. is the town. (Inns : 
Kreutz; Adler). The Battle 
of Sempach (1386) — the second 
of those surprising victories by 
which Swiss independence was 
established — was fought on the 
E. of the lake, N. of Sempach. 
3 m. E. is a small chapel, and a 
pyramidal monument of granite, 
raised 1864, to commemorate 
the victory, on the spot where 
Leopold of Austria lost his 
life. The names of those who 
fell, both Austrians and Swiss, 
were inscribed on the walls, 
which also bear a rude fresco 
representation of the noble de- 
votion of Arnold of Winhelried, 
a knight of Unterwalden, who, 
observing the efforts of the Swiss 
to break the ranks of then ene- 
mies foiled by their long lances, 
went forward, and gathering in his 
arms as many lances as he could 
clasp, buried them in his body. 
The confederates broke through 



19 Btes. 5, 6.— BASLE to BEBNE and ZUBICH. 20 



the gap before the Austrians had 
time to extricate their weapons. 
6oo nobles were slain, and more 
than 2000 common soldiers ; 
while the entire force of the 
Swiss is said not to have ex- 
ceeded 1400 men.] 

The approach to Lucerne is 
charming : on the 1. rises the 
Rigi, somewhat resembling a 
horse's back ; on the rt. the ser- 
rated ridge of Pilatus. 

7 m. Emmenbrucke Stat After 
crossing the Emme we reach the 
green Reuss, rushing out of the 
lake of Lucerne. A tunnel under 
the hill called Gibraltar. Lu- 
cerne is surrounded on this side 
by a battlemented wall, flanked 
at intervals by tall watch-towers, 
descending to the river. 

2Jm. Lucerne Stat. (Rte. 16), 



Rte. 5.— BASLE to BERNE, 
by the Central Swiss Rail- 
way. 

BASLE. Eng. m. 

Olten 23 

\ Herzogenbuchsee . . .17 
Berne 24 

Trains in ii to 2 hrs. to Olten (see Rte. 
4). There carriages are changed, though 
the line does not separate till Aarburg, 
2 m. further. The rly. keeps the Aar on 
its rt. 

40 m. Herzogenbuchsee Junct. Stat. 
[Inn: Sonne), a town of some 
4500 Inhab. [To Soleure and 
Bienne, Rte. 3.] 

11m. Burgdorf Stat. (Fr. Berthoucl) 
— {Inns : Bear ; Buffet at the 
Stat.), a thriving town (4200 
Inhab.) of large arcaded houses 
and opulent institutions at the 
mouth of the fertile Emmenthal 
(Rte. 22). Old castle ; here Pesta- 
lozzi first established his school. 



Hindelbank Stat In the ch. is 4 n 

the Monument of Mme. Langlians, 
by a sculptor named Nahl, of 
sandstone, let into the pavement 
of the ch. It represents her, 
with her child in her arms, 
bursting through the tomb at 
the sound of the last trumpet. 
Its merit as a work of art has 
been exaggerated. Rt. see the 
buildings of Hofwyl, formerly 
Pestalozzi's school. 

Zollikofen Junct. Stat. Here 
the line from Bienne falls in 
(Rte. 1). 

Wyler Feld Junct. Stat [Rly. 8} 
from Thun (Rte. 25) falls in.] 
Castle of Reichenbach, on the 
height, belongs to the Erlach 
family. 

The Aar is crossed by a lofty 
bridge of iron, on 12 stone piers, 
125 ft. high, 560 ft. long, with 
foot and carriage way under the 
rly., to 

Berne Stat (Rte. 24). li 



Rte. 6. —BASLE to ZURICH- 

Railway. 

Eng. m. Eng. m. 

BASLE. Brugg ... 12 

Olten ... 23 Baden ... 6 

Aarau ... 8 Zurich ... 16 

6 trains daily in 3? to 4| hrs. Take 1. 
seats of rly. carriage. 

To Olten Stat (see Rte. 4). 
Thence the rly. keeps the Aar to 
its 1. 

Aarau Stat (Inns : Wilder Mann 8 
(Sauvage), comfortable ; Lowe ; 
Rossli)— the chief town of the 
canton Argovie, which was 
first included in the Confedera- 
tion in 1803, having previously 
formed a subject province of 
canton Berne, and for a short time 



21 



Bte. 6.— BASLE to ZUBICH—BBUGG. 



22 



(1789) capital of the "Helvetian 
Republic.'' 4500 Inhab. Library, 
60,000 vols., rich in Swiss history. 
Suspension bridge over the Aar. 
Manufactures of cotton and rib- 
bons, also of mathematical instru- 
ments (etu'i mathematique). 

Henry Zscholike, the historian 
and novel-writer, resided in the 
Maison Blumenhalde until his 
death, 1848. 

Several castles are visible from 
the rly. ; the most conspicuous is 
Wildegg. 

) i m. Schintznach Stat. The Baths, 
also called Habsburger Bad, are 
the largest of any in Switzerland. 
The principal buildings are the 
Great Inn (Grosser Gasthof) 
and the Bath-house, forming a 

> crescent themselves. 5 00 persons 
frequently sit down to dinner to- 
gether. There is accommodation 
for 90 poor persons both in baths 
and beds, free of all expense. 
The water is 6o° Fahr. ; it tastes 
strong of sulphur and Epsom 
salts. Schintznach owes little to 
nature except its waters. 

Castle of Habsburg, or Habichts- 
burg (Hawk's Castle). Its remains 
stand to the rt. of the rly., on a 
wooded height. It was the 
cradle of the House of Austria, 
b. 1 o 2 o. The view from it takes in 
the whole Swiss patrimony of the 
Habsburgs — an estate far more 
limited than that of many a 
British peer — from which Ru- 
dolph was called to wield the 
sceptre of Charlemagne. 

[Pleasant walk to Aarau over 
the Gisli-fluh.] 

2 J ml Brugg Stat, or Brack— Inn: 
Rossli. An ancient possession of 
the House of Habsburg. 1200 
Inhab. The exit and entrance 
to it are guarded by high conical- 
roofed towers. It is the birth- 



place of Zimmerman, physician 
of Frederick the Great, who wrote 
on Solitude. The black tower on 
the Aar is said to be a Roman 
structure of the Lower Empire. 

Excursions. 

a. Vindonissa. — 2 m. below 
Bragg, three principal rivers 
of Switzerland, the Limmat, 
the Reuss, and the Aar, form 
a junction under the name of 
the Aar (which meets the Rhine 
9 m. further down at Coblenz 
(ConfTuentia).) Close upon the 
junction of the 3 rivers stood 
Yindonissa, the most important 
settlement of the Romans in 
Helvetia for maintaining this 
province of their empire. Its 
works extended 12 m. from 
N. to S., yet scarcely any por- 
tion of it now appears ; traces 
of an amphitheatre, a subterra- 
nean aqueduct, of walls, broken 
pottery, and coins, have been 
turned up, and its name is 
preserved in that of the miser- 
able little village of Windisch. 
"Within the ancient walls of 
Vindonissa, the castle of Habs- 
burg, the abbey of Konigsfeld, 
and the town of Bragg have 
successively arisen. The philo- 
sophic traveller may compare the 
monuments of Roman conquests, 
of feudal or Austrian tyranny, of 
monkish superstition, and of in- 
dustrious freedom. If he be 
truly a philosopher, he will ap- 
plaud the merit and happiness of 
his own time." — Gibbon. 

b. Abbey of Konigsfelden (King's 
field) is 1 m. E. of Bragg, f. 
13 10, by the Empress Elizabeth 
and Agnes Queen of Hungary, 
on the spot where their- hus- 
band and father, the Emperor 
Albert, was assassinated, The 



23 



Rte. 6.— BASLE to 



ZURICH— BADEN. 



24 



convent, a group of gloomy 
piles, was suppressed in 1528; 
part of it is now converted into 
a farm-house, an hospital, and 
a mad-house ; the rest is rapidly 
falling to decay. The Church, 
though dilapidated, contains 
some very fine painted glass, 
and numerous pavement tombs, 
with sculptured coats of arms of 
a long train of nobles who fell 
in the battle of Sempach. The 
large vaults beneath were the 
burial-place of many members of 
the Austrian family, including 
Agnes, and Leopold who fell at 
Sempach, but their bodies were 
removed hence into the Austrian 
dominions in 1 7 70. According to 
tradition the high altar stands on 
the spot where Albert fell. He 
was about to invade Switzerland, 
and had crossed the Reuss in a 
boat, attended only by the 4 con- 
spirators, the chief of them his 
nephew. A dreadful vengeance 
was exacted by his children : 
1000 victims expiated, with their 
lives, a crime of which they were 
totally innocent. 

c. Castle of Hapsburg (see 
above). 

Leaving Brugg, the rly. crosses 
the Eeuss to 

2 m. Turgi Junction Stat. Buffet. 
[Rly. to Waldshut (Rte. 7).] 

The rly. keeps the Limmat on 
its 1. 

4 m. Baden Stat. — Inns : H. de la 
Gare ; Waage (Balances) : the 
best hotels are at the baths. 
This ancient walled town of 
3500 Inhab. is squeezed within 
a narrow defile on the 1. bank 
of the Limmat. Castle, called 
Stein zu Baden, extensive ruins, 
on a rock tunnelled by the rly. ; 
view. It was an ancient strong- 
hold of Austrian princes. In the 



Rathhaus the treaty of peace 
which terminated the war of the 
Spanish Succession was signed 
by Prince Eugene on the part of 
Austria, and by Marshal Yillars 
for France, in 1712. 

Baths (Inns: Stadthof, best; 
Limmathof; SchirT) are on the 
Limmat, ^ m. N. of the town. 
15,000 visitors in 1861. The 
waters are sulphureous, 11 8° 
Fain-. Agreeable walks for in- 
valids by the side of the Limmat. 

Baden was known to the Ro- 
mans, who called it Thermal Hel- 
vetica?. It was sacked and de- 
stroyed by Csecina. Tacitus 
mentions it. Roman relics are 
constantly discovered A neigh- 
bouring field has obtained the 
name of Dice Meadow (Wurfel 
Wiese), from the quantity of 
Roman dice dug up in it. 

Leaving Baden, the rly. passes 
through a tunnel (800 ft.) under 
the castle, and follows the Lim- 
mat. 

L Convent of Wettingen, a vast 1J 
building with gardens, is in a 
bend of the river on its opposite 
bank. It was suppressed by the 
council of canton Aarau, i84r, 
and turned into a school. Its 
church, founded in 1227, contains 
tombs of some early counts of 
Habsburg and Kyburg ; the 
stone coffin in which the body 
of the Emperor Albert was in- 
terred for 14 months after his 
murder; painted glass; carved 
stalls, &c. The railway makes a 
sharp turn here. 

Dietikon Stat The stately build- 7j 
ing 1. on the height surrounded by 
vineyards is a Kelterhaus (wine- 
press) of the convent of Wetting- 
gen. Near this the French, under 
Massena, crossed the river, Sept. 
2 4> 1799 — a masterly movement, 



25 



Mte. 7.— BASLE to S CHAFFHA US EN. 



2G 



which led to the defeat of the 
Russians and the capture of Zu- 
rich. By Killwangen to Altstetten 
Junct. Stat. (rt. rly. to Zug and 
Lucerne), rt. the heights of the 
Uetli, 1. Waid, to 

7 m. Zurich Stat, (in Ete. 9). 



Rte. 7.— BASLE to SCHAFF- 
HAUSEN and the RHINE 
FALL by WALDSHTJT. —Rail. 

61 miles, 2f hrs. 
Views from rt. seats of carriage. 

Basle. Terminus at the Baden 
Stat., in Klein Basel. 

On the opposite side of the 
Rhine, 7 m. from Basle and 3 
m. before Rheinfelden, we may 
see Augst (Rte. 4). At this point 
the rly. approaches the Rhine, 
breaking and foaming over rocks 
near 

10 m . Rheinfelden Stat. (Inn: Krone, 
Post ; salt-water baths), a town 
of 1500 Inhab., surrounded by 
walls and closed at either end by 
gates in the true Swiss fashion. 
It stands on the 1. bank of the 
Rhine, here crossed by a covered 
wooden bridge, above and below 
which the rocks in the river-bed 
form considerable rapids and falls. 
The town is partly built of frag- 
ments of Roman masonry brought 
from the ruins of Augst. Oppo- 
site the inn is a handsome fountain, 
a pillar of bronze, supporting a 
standardbearer with the arms of 
the town. Duke Bernard of Saxe 
Weimar gained a battle here in 
the Thirty Years' War (1638), in 
which the Due de Rohan perished. 

10m. Sachingen Stat.: Abbey Ch. 
with 2 towers. 
6 m. Lauffenburg Stat. (Inn : Post), 
on the banks of the Rhine. The 



river flows in a deep channel, 
interrupted by rapids and falls 
(in German Lauffen). Small 
boats pass them by unloading 
their cargoes, and being let down 
by ropes. It was in descending 
these rapids in this manner that 
the young Lord Montague, the 
last male of his line, was drowned. 

Salmon leaps ; productive 
fishery here. Bridge over Rhine 
to Gross Lauffen burg. Inns : 
Adler ; Wilder Mann. Old Castle. 

Waldshut Junct, Stat. Buffet 9 m. 
(Inns : Rebstock (Vine), clean and 
reasonable; Badischer Hof), an 
old walled town on the skirts 
of the Black Forest. A mile 
above (S. of) this, near Coblenz 
(Confluentia), the Rhine is joined 
by the Aar. [The Swiss Junct. 
Rly. crosses the Rhine, traverses 
Coblenz, and ascends the rt. bank 
of the Aar (Rte. 6).] 

The Schaffhausen rly. leaves 
the Rhine and proceeds along a 
dull country. 

Erzingen Stat. The Baden terri- 13 m. 
tory is quitted, and soon afterwards 
canton Schaffhausen is entered. 

Beringen Stat. 8 m. 

Neuhausen Stat. Close to the 2 J m. 
Falls of the Rhine, and not far 
from the excellent Schweizer Hof 
Inn. 

FALLS OF THE RHINE. 

Inns ; on the rt. bank— Schweizer Hof, 
very good, pleasant gardens, commanding 
view of Rhine and distant Alps; Bellevue, 
H. and Pension, close to station, very 
good. Inns on the I. bank— H. du Chateau 
de Laufen, large and new ; omnibuses to 
JJachsen Stat. H. IVitzig, good and cheap, 
at the stat. : no view. 

It takes 2 hours to see the Falls 
properly. 

Whether the traveller stop at 
Neuhausen Stat, or at Dachsen 
Stat., he will find the utmost 



27 Rte. 7.— FALLS of RHINE— S CHA FFHA US EN. 28 



facilities for viewing the Falls 
from all points. Our advice is 
to approach them first from 
Laufen Castle on the 1. bank. Its 
garden is on a high rock over- 
looking the Fall; r fr. adm. 
There are platforms and kiosks 
in the gardens, from which views 
of the falls are obtained, and 
flights of rude steps conduct to a 
projecting stage of timbers, the 
Fischetz, thrown out, like the 
bowsprit of a ship, to within a 
few feet of the Fall, and over- 
hangs it. Here, covered with the 
spray, the traveller may enjoy 
this hell of tuaters ; and it is only 
by close proximity that a true 
notion can be formed of the cata- 
ract. The iris floats within the 
spray at 8 a.m. Arrangements are 
made for illuminating the falls 
by night. The river is usually 
most full in July. Above the 
fall it is 300 feet broad; the 
height of the fall varies from 60 
feet on one side to 45 on the 
other. Including the rapids above, 
the entire descent is 100 feet. 
Two isolated pillars of rock 
stand in the middle of the fall. 
Seen from behind, these pinna- 
cles appear eaten away, and tot- 
tering to their fall ; yet, though 
the rock is soft, no waste of it 
within the memory of man has 
been perceptible. 

After its leap the river forms a 
large semicircular bay, as it were 
to rest itself. Ferry-boats ply 
between the rock below the castle 
of Laufen and the castle of 
Worth ; and will land passengers 
on the central rock, at 4 fr. each. 
The boatmen appear to enjoy a 
monopoly, and are exorbitant and 
insolent. The traveller may cross 
the river above the Falls by the 
rly. bridge, and below the Falls 
by ferry. 



Iron-works are built on the 
rocks on the rt. bank ; then ham- 
mers are worked by the fall, but 
the buildings materially injure 
the beauty of the scene. 

History. — It is a curious fact 
that no classic or ancient author 
mentions the Eheinfall. 




Schafithausen Stat. 



Ilins: in the town — Couronne, fair, 
not far from the stat. ; Lion, small, but 
comfortable. It is far better to put up 
at one of the Inns near the Falls (see 
col. 26). 

Schaffhausen (10,000 Inhab. 
Prot.) stands just above where 
the rapids and falls of the Rhine 
commence, which render it un- 
navigable to Basle. It was ori- 
ginally a landing- wharf, and owes 
its origin and name to the boat or 
skiff houses here erected. The 
fronts and projecting oriel win- 
dows of its houses are decorated 
with carvings and stucco-work. 
The halls of the ancient Guilds, 
or Zwifte, have quaint inscriptions 
and allusive ornaments. The 
wall and turreted gateways of 



29 



Rte. 8.—SCHAFFHA TJSEN to CONSTANCE. 



the town furnish picturesque 
subjects for the pencil. 

Bridge over Ehine, whose 
water-power, applied to Turbines, 
is used to turn several mills and 
factory machinery. 

Castle Munnoth (Munitio ?) rises 
on the height above. Its round 
tower has walls 18 ft. thick, built 
1564-90. It is provided with 
bombproof casemates, and is a 
good specimen of the transi- 
sition style of fortification. There 
are subterranean passages under it. 

Miinster, f. 1052, Eomanesque 
style. Cloister contains a profu- 
sion of monuments of the magis- 
trates and patrician families. 

The Town Library, besides 
books and MSS., includes a 
Museum, painted glass, anti- 
quities from old convents, carved 
woodwork, natural history. 

Public walks S. of the town 
afford view of the Khine, &c. 

Swimming-bath in the river. 

Railways to Winterthur and Ziirich, 
rly. to Basle and to Constance (Rte. 8.) 

Diligences. 

Omnibus to the Falls (1 fi\), 3 m. 

Railway to the Falls. 3 m. in 10 min. 
by either of the 2 Rails N. and S. of the 
river ;— Neuhausen Stat, on the N., and 
the Dachsen Stat, of the rly. to Zurich, 
being but 10 min. from the Falls. There 
are good hotels on both banks. 

Ry river to the Falls. Take a carriage, 
and drive £ ni. to the part of the Rhine 
where a boat may be hired for 3 fr. 
The Rhine forms a succession of rapids, 
by no means dangerous under the guid- 
ance of a boatman accustomed to the 
river. When the skiff approaches the 
Falls, the steersman makes for the 1. bank, 
and lands his passengers in the garden of 
the castle of Laufen. 



Rte. 8.— SCHAFFHAUSEN to 

CONSTANCE — Rail. — LAKE 

of CONSTANCE. 

Raden Railway, along rt. bank of 
Rhine, which joins the Swiss line (N.F.) 
at Waldshut and Schaffhausen, 35 n>- 



Trains in 2i hrs. Fine views on side of 
Switzerland. 
b. Swiss road along S. side. 

a. Ely. N. side of the Rhine, 
Take rt. seats of rly. carriage. 

Singen Stat— (Inn, Krone) 1. 2 16J m. 
m. N.W., the castle of Hohentwiel, 
now dismantled. It belongs to 
Wiirtemberg, though in Bavarian 
territory. The lofty rock upon 
which it stands gives it the ap- 
pearance of an Indian hill-fort. 

The scenery is agreeable, often 
striking. The woods abound in 
butterflies. Collections of them 
may be bought at Singen and 

Radolfszell Stat— (Inn : Poste, 6 \ m. 
good) — a desolate walled town, 
with a fine ch. in the German- 
Gothic style (1436). , Here the 
Untersee, or Zellersee, is reached, 
and its bank is followed. 

[Itznang, ij? m. S. across the 
lake, is the birthplace of Mesmer, 
the first writer on animal mag- 
netism.] 

Beichenau Stat. [Hence over 9 m. 
a dam 1 m. long to Isle of Beich- 
enau, At Mittelzell was the famed 
Benedictine Monastery. In its ch. 
see monts. of abbots, painted glass; 
and in the Tresor some antique 
church plate and relics ; a so-called 
emerald is a piece of glass. 

At Oberzell is another * Church, 
consecrated 888, and probably 
of that date, one of the oldest 
and most curious in Christendom. 
It contains the tomb of Charles 
le Gxos(d. 887XI 

Traversing the isthmus between 
the Lower Lake of Constance and 
the bay of Ueberlingen, the rly. 
reaches the Ehine opposite Con- 
stance, and crosses by a grand 
iron bridge, serving for road and 
rail, surmounted by statues — cost 
43 pool. — to 

Constance Stat, (see next page.) 4 m. 



31 Bte. 8. — SCHAFFBATJSEN to CONSTANCE. 32 



b. The Swiss Road keeps the 
Rhine to the 1. past the Nun- 
neries of Paradies and Kathe- 
rinethal. 

6m. Diessenhofen (Inn: Adler). 

5| m. "Wagenhausen ( Inn : Ochse, 
clean and fair). 

[Stein {Inns : Schwan ; Krone) 
lies on the opposite side of the 
river (bridge), partly burned down 
1863. Ruined castle of Hohen- 
klingen on the height above 
commands extensive view. 

Quarries of (Ehningen, ij m. 
E, of Stein, are remarkable for 
the abundance of unique fossil 
remains. Murchison's fossil fox 
was found here. The beds of 
rock consist of marls, limestones, 
shales, and building-stone. They 
lie immediately above the forma- 
tion called Molasse.] 

Above Stein the Rhine expands 
into a lake called Untersee (lower 
lake), with the island of Reiche- 
nau in its middle (see col. 30), 
connected again by the Rhine 
at its upper extremity with the 
large Lake of Constance. 

7 m. Feldbach,a Cistercian nunnery. 

J m. Steckborn (Inns : Lowe ; 
Sonne). The road now ap- 
proaches the Isle of Reichenau. 

2 m. Berlingen. Near here is the 
chateau of the Duchess of Dino ; 
and a little further Arenenberg, 
once the residence of Hortense, 
ex-Queen of Holland, and her 
son, now the Emperor Louis Na- 
poleon, before he made his 
attempt at Strasburg. It belongs 
to the Emperor. 

Cm. Castle of Gottlieben, 1. of road, 
was the prison of John Huss and 
Jerome of Prague, confined by 
order of the Emperor Sigismund 
and Pope John XXIII. The 
latter was himself transferred a 



few months later to the same 
prison, by order of the Council of 
Constance. It is now restored 
as a residence of the Count de 
Beroldingen. 

Constance. Terminus near the 2 m. 
harbour. 

Inns : Brocket (Hecht) ; Post (Golden 
Adler, Aigle d'Or) : both very highly 
recommended. (Golden Lowe, in Switz. 
outside the territory of the Customs 
League, just beyond the gate, at Kreutz* 
lingen, good.) 

Cafe Lev, an ancient house. 

Swimming Baths on the lake. 

At the W. extremity of the 
Lake of Constance, where the 
Rhine runs out of it (once 40,000, 
now 9400 Inhab.). Belongs to 
Baden. Its streets remain little 
altered since the 15 th centy. It 
has of late revived ; the govern- 
ment have formed a port, and 
manufactories of cotton and 
muslin have sprung up. 

Cathedral or Minister, founded 
1052, partly rebuilt in the 16th 
centy. ; open Gothic spire, 1850- 
57. See the door of the W. portal, 
carved by S. Bainder, 1470 ; the 
72 choir stalls; Treasury, with 
missals, robes, relics, and church 
plate . The spot where the ' ' Arch- 
heretic Huss" stood, as sentence 
of death by burning was pro- 
nounced on him by his unright- 
eous judges. Crypt: beautiful 
Gothic Cloisters, 2 sides, tracery. 

Tower of the cathedral, *View 
W. over the lake and mtns. of 
Tyrol, and E. over the valley of 
the Rhine. 

Circular Chapel (or baptistery) 
by the side of the cathedral, in 
the centre of which is a Gothic 
Holy Sepulchre. 

Dominican Convent, now a cot- 
ton-printing establishment. The 
place is shown where Huss was 
confined, though the stone cham- 



33 



Rte. 8 . — SCEAFFHA US EN to CONSTANCE. 



34 



ber itself has been removed. 
Church is a picturesque ruin. 
Cloisters are perfect. 

In the Kaufhaus (b. 1388, 
as a warehouse), close to 
the lake, the Great Council 
of Constance held its sittings 
14 1 4- 18. It curbed the Papal 
power, by deposing the infamous 
John XXIII. and Benedict XIII., 
and by electing in their place 
Martin V. It caused John Huss 
and Jerome of Prague to be seized 
and executed, in spite of the safe- 
conduct granted by the Emp. 
Sigismund. In the hall are the 
chairs occupied by the Em- 
peror and Pope, and a model of 
the dungeon, now destroyed, in 
which Huss was confined. There 
are also Roman and German an- 
tiquities, dug up in the neighbour- 
hood. 1 fr. adm. 

Huss lodged in the Pfisterhaus, 
bearing a rude likeness of him, in 
Paul's Strasse, near the Schnetz- 
thor. The field, in the suburb of 
Briihl, in which he suffered mar- 
tyrdom, even the place where the 
stake was planted, are still pointed 
out. 

Ecole de Natation, a capital 
Swimming Bath in the lake, ap- 
proached by a bridge, at the end 
of which, stuck up in large letters 
visible far off, may be read the 
temperature of the waters. 

Fishing in the lake, good. 

Excursions to Reichenau (see 
above), Meinau, and Heiligenberg. 
Island of Meinau (Inn), a long- 
bridge to it from the main land, 
is 4 m. N. of Constance. The 
house, once a commandery of the 
Knights of the Teutonic Order, 
now belongs to the G. Duke of 
Baden, who has restored it. View 
over the lake, from the terrace of 
the garden, of the mtns. of the 
Vorarlberg and Appenzell. 

Kp. Switz. 



Hohenrain, 1 hr. walk ; vieiv of 
the Alps. 

Diligences or steamer to Romanshorn, 
thence by rly. to Zurich ; — steamer to 
Rorschach, thence by rly. to St. Gall or 
Coire (rly. direct to Zurich begun). 



LAKE OF CONSTANCE, OS 

BODEN SEE. 

5 companies, with about 20 Steamboats, 
navigate the lake of Constance. Printed 
tables of them are hung up in all the 
inns near the lake. From Constance 3± 
hrs. to Lindau, and 2i to Rorschach, or 
ii Friedrichshafen. The steamers take 
carriages. 

Lake of Constance (in German 
Boden See), 1305 ft., known 
to the Romans as Lacus Bri- 
gantinus (from Brigantia, the 
modern Bregenz), is bordered by 
5 different states — Baden, Wiirt- 
emberg, Bavaria, Austria, and 
Switzerland. It is 44 m. from 
Bregenz to Constance, 9 m. wide 
in the broadest part ,'964 ft. in its 
greatest depth ; and it abounds in 
fish of 25 species. Its waters are 
highest when the snows are melt- 
ing : it sometimes swells a foot in 
24 hrs. Its main tributary is the 
Rhine, which flows out by Con- 
stance. The deposits of the river 
have formed a delta at the upper 
end of the lake, and are annually 
encroaching. 

Its banks, either flat or gently 
undulating, are eminently fertile. 
Distant glimpses to the E. of the 
snow-topped mountains of Vo- 
rarlberg, and of the Sentis. Its 
S. shore is studded with a line of 
hill-forts of the middle ages. 

The letters (V.) (S.) and (E.), prefixed 
to the names of towns, refer to the JY., 
S., and E. shores of the lake. 

Constance. -^On quitting it by 
steamer, we pass 

(#.) Kreuzlingen, a suppressed 1 ni. 
Augustine convent, now an agri- 

c 



35 



Ete. 9.— SCHAFFHAUSEN to ZURICH 



36 



cultural school, with 70 or 80 
pupils. Inns : Lowe ; H. Hel- 
vetia, with baths, reasonable. 
Church, Tyrolese wood-carvings 
of the Passion, with several hun- 
dred small figures. 

3 m. (S.) Miinsterlingen nunnery- 
is now an hospital. 

8 m. (S.) Komanshorn Stat (Rte. 
10) — (H. Bodan), a nourishing 
port on the lake. 

Terminus of the rly. to Zurich, by 
Winterthur. Rte. 10. 

It is the port of communication 
by steamer, across the lake, with 

7 m. (N.) Friedrichshafen Stat. 
(Inns : Deutsches Hans, at the 
rly. station ; Hotel Nestle, nearer 
the steamers, good and moderate : 
Konig von Wiirtemberg.) Villa 
of the King of Wiirtemberg, in 
which he passes part of the 
summer. 

Terminus of the Stuttgard rly., which 
joins the Baden rly. at Bruchsal. See 
Handbook for South Germany. 

(S.) Arbon (Inns : Kreutz ; 
Traube), a walled town of 660 
Inhab. , close upon the lake. Castle, 
above the lake, b. 15 10; its tower 
is said to rest on Roman founda- 
tions. Belfry is boarded, not 
walled, on the side nearest the 
castle, lest an hostile force should 
shelter themselves in it to annoy 
the castle'. 

13m. (N.) Lindau Stat (Inns: Bay- 
rischer Hof ; Krone). 

Terminus of the Bavarian rly., 5 hrs. 
from Augsburg. (See Handbook for 
South Germany.) 

4m. (E.) Bregenz (Inns: Oester- 
reichischer Hof ; Post or Goldener 
Adler; Schwarzer Adler ; Krone), 
the chief place in the Vorarlberg. 

Pedestrians intending to travel in the 
Tyrol may pass their heavy luggage at 
the Austrian custom-house here, and for- 



ward it by diligence to Innsbruck or 
Botzen. (See Ete. 66, and Handbook for 
South Germany.) 

(S.) Rorschach Stat (Rte. 65). 

Terminus of the rlys. to St. Gall (Rte. 
65) and to Coire up the valley of the 
Rhine (Rte. 66). 



Rte. 9 — SCHAFFHAUSEN to 
ZURICH, by Winterthur — 
Rheinfall Railway. 

SCHAFFHAUSEN. Eng. m. 

Winterthur 20 

Wallisellen 12 

Zurich ....... 5 $ 

4 trains daily. 

Schaffhausen (Ete. 7). 

The station is just outside the town on 
the S.W. 

The rly. runs for 2m. on the rt. 
bank of the Rhine till just above 
the falls, when it turns and crosses 
the river by a long stone bridge ; 
partial view of falls, rt. ; and im- 
mediately enters a 

Tunnel under the Oastle of 1 m. 
Laufen. On emerging a rapid 
view of the falls may again be 
caught on the rt. 

Bachsen Stat (Hotel Witzig) 
is 10 min. walk from the Falls of 
the Rhine and Schloss Laufen 
hotel (see Rte. 7). The rly. keeps 
for a short distance on the cliffs 
above the Rhine, and then pro- 
ceeds through a fertile country, 
with occasional views towards the 
valley of the Thur, making a 
great bend to cross that river 
on an iron bridge 460 ft. long, 
near 

Andelfingen Stat, 1900 Inhab. 10 m, 
— Castle of Baron Sulzerv. Wart. 
Thence across the ridge between 
the valleys of the Thur and the 
Toss. View rt. before descending 



37 



Bte. 9. — 8 CHAFFEA USEN to ZTJBICH. 



38 



into the broad and fertile valley of 
the Toss. 

8 m. Winterthur Junct. Stat, 

Junction with the Rorschach line (Rte. 
io), and the Romanshorn line (Rte. 65). 

{Inns: *Adler, nearest the Stat., 
good ; Wilder Mann, good ; 
Sonne) — a manufact. town of 6600 
Inhab. (chiefly Prot.), who weave 
muslin and print cotton. New 
School is the only conspicuous 
building : in it Library and Mu- 
seum. 

The rly. at first follows the 
Toss, and passes between steep 
green lulls, rt. 

1 m. Toss. Its ancient Dominican 
Convent, now a factory, was the re- 
treat of the Empress Agnes after 
the murder of her father, Albert 
of Austria (Rte. 6). Here her 
daughter-in-law, St. Elizabeth of 
Hungary, took the veil and died 
in the odour of sanctity : Church 
contains her monument, with the 
arms of Hungary. Cloisters, see 
fresco paintings of Bible sub- 
jects. 

2 m. Castle of Kyburg, ij m. to 
,the 1., was an ancient possession 

of the house of Habsburg (1264) ; 
once the residence of the Em- 
perors of Germany, and place 
of deposit of the Kegalia. The 
Emp. of Austria still styles him- 
self Count of Kyburg, although 
the domain was sold 1375. 

It is now private property ; is 
furnished in antique style, and 
contains a gallery of paintings. 
In the Castle chapel old frescoes. 
The rly. crosses the valley of the 
Glatt, up which 1. view of Gl'ar- 
nisch and other mtns. 

9 m. Wallisellen Junct. Stat. 

Branch rly. to Rapperschwyl, and 
thence to Coire by Wallenstadt (Rte. 1 3.) 

A long tunnel under the hill of 



Weid; then the Limmat is crossed ; 
and after a sharp curve, 

Zurich Stat 5 ra. 

Inns; Hotel Baur; and IT. Baur au 
Lac, a quieter hotel, with garden, close to 
the lake : these are two of the best inns in 1 
Switzerland, and in the finest situation. 
H. Bellevue, nearly all the rooms over- 
look the lake ; reading-room,' Times,' &c; 
Ladies' sitting-room; — Schweizerliof, on 
the river, below the bridge, cheap ; — Zu- 
richer Hof, on the rt. of the Limmat — 
view of the lake ; Schwerdt (Epe'e) ; — 
Faucon, large house. There is a good 
cafe restaurant in the Hotel Baur. 

Lake Baths, close to H. Baur' 
a large establishment. Plunge 
and single baths. 

Zurich, the most important 
manufacturing town of Switzer- 
land, and the capital of a canton 
distinguished for prosperous in- 
dustry and manufactures of 
cotton, silk, iron, machinery, 
has 45,000 Inhab., including 
its suburbs, nearly all Pro- 
testants. It lies on the banks 
of the Limmat, just where it 
issues out of the lake in a rapid, 
clear, and healthful stream, and 
another river, the Sihl, flows on 
the W. side of the town. A 
Roman station, Turicum (?), pro- 
bably gave rise both to the town 
and its name. The banks of the 
lake (described in Rte. 13) and 
the Limmat, and all the neigh- 
bouring hills, are thickly dotted 
over with houses, forming a wide 
circle of suburbs. 

Apart from its agreeable situa- 
tion, there are few sights. 

The Gross Miinster, a Ro- 
manesque ch., no W. door, but 
with 2 towers of 10th or nth 
cent., will interest the archi- 
tect and antiquary, and is 
worthy of respect from having 
been the scene of Zwingli's bold 
preachings of reformation in the 
Church, and amendment of morals. 

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41 



Mte. 9.— ZURICH. 



42 



See its fine 1ST. door and cloisters, 
12th cent, sculptures restored, 
now included in the Girls' School. 

Zwingli passed the last 6 yrs. 
of his life in 18 5, Grosse Stadt. 

Ch. of St. Peter (with the large 
clock), on the 1. bank of the Lim- 
mat, had for its minister, for 23 
yrs., Laval er, the author of the 
work on Physiognomy, who was 
born at Zurich. On the capture 
of the town by the French army 
he was shot ; his grave is in the 
old churchyard near the Ch. of St. 
Anne, where Ebel, author of the 
Swiss Guide, and Escher von der 
Lintli (Ete. 13), are also buried. 

Town Library, close to the 
Minster bridge, in a building 
formerly a church ( Wasserkirche) : 
80,000 printed vols, and MSS. ; a 
Greek Psalter on purple vellum ; 
Zwingli' s Bible, with autograph 
notes ; autograph letters of early 
Reformers; 3 Latin letters of 
Lady Jane Grey to Bullinger ; a 
bust of Lavater, by Dannecher ; 
portraits of Zwingli and his 
daughter, by Hans Asper; a 
model in relief of a large part of 
Switzerland, interesting and su- 
perior to that at Lucerne. In the 
upper story is preserved a large 
collection of the antiquities found 
among the remains of Swiss 
Lalze Dwellings (Pfahl-bauten), of 
which Prof. Keller was the first 
exponent, and fossils. 

Old Arsenal (Altes Zeughaus\ 
near to Baur's Hotel, contains a 
few suits of ancient armour. 

One of the finest buildings is 
the Polytechnic School and Uni- 
versity, a vast edifice, finished 
in 1865, from designs of Wolf and 
Semper. The terrace in front 
commands a very fine view. 
University, founded 1832-3. Many 
professors, including Strauss, ex- 
pelled from other countries for 



their political and heretical opi- 
nions, have been teachers here. 
The number of students is 270. 
Its Library contains MSS. of the 
early reformers ; and its Museum 
of Natural History good specimens 
of Swiss minerals and fossils, to- 
gether with the Herbarium of 
John Gessner, and a zoological 
collection. 

Behind the Polytechnic School 
is a vast Hospital, not far off the 
Observatory, also by Semper, who 
built the Barricades at Dresden 
in 1848. 

The Botanical Garden is 
prettily laid out, and opened to 
the public. Its collection of 
Alpine Plants, embracing 700 
species, well deserves the attention 
of botanists. * View of the town, 
lake, and distant Alps. The most 
prominent Alpine peaks, begin- 
ning at the E., are the Sentis, 
Glarnisch, Dodi, Klariden, Ach- 
senburg, Rossberg, and Uri Roth- 
stock. 

Hohe Promenade, a raised ter- 
race, on the heights E. of the town. 
Vieiv, but more confined than the 
former. 

Environs. — ■ 

a . Zur We id, Gasthaus, 1 hr. 
walk on the Baden road. Vieiv of 
the Alps, the town, and the vale of 
the Limmat. 

b. Uetliberg, 2792 ft., 3 m. W. 
of the town, one of the Albis 
range of hills, panoramic view, is 
easily accessible in 1 hr. to the 
foot of the hill and another hr. to 
the top. The Inn on the top is 
good, and is visited for the sake 
of the view at sunrise, but should 
be avoided on Saturday evening, 
when it is generally crowded. 
[Prom the Uetliberg to the Albis 
Inn, on the direct road from 
Zurich to Zug and the Rigi, is 



Navigation a vapeur sur le Lac des Quatre Cantons. 






:.■::::::.! ; . . 

!, r ,::: ,; ., 

ffiis. ■ ... ::: ::■ ; - >" - 





















43 



Rte. 10.— ttOMAMSEOBN to ZURICH. 



the publisher of the well-known Swiss 
map. Fuesli (near the stone bridge) has 
also a good collection of guide-books, 
maps, &c. 

Chemist. — Kerez, in the Wein-Platz, 
makes up English prescriptions. 

Post Office, opposite H. Baur. 

Railways — Terminus at the N. end of 
the town, between the Zihl and Limmat, 
i m. from the Steamers and the Lake ; — 
to Basle ; to Romanshom to St. Gall and 
Rorschach ; to Schaffhausen ; to Goire ; 
to Berne and Lucerne ; to Zug for the Rigl 

Passengers from Frankfort may now 
reach Zurich in the day, without chang- 
ing carriages at Basle. 

Steamboats go thrice a-day from Zu- 
rich to the other end of the lake (Rapper- 
schwyl), and once to Schmerikon and 
back. For Lake of Zurich, see Rte. 13. 

The Rigi top may be reached from 
Zurich in 6 hrs., and Lucerne in 2 hrs., 
rail, or 5, taking the steamboat to Horgen 
(Rte. 15). 



Rte. 10.— ROM AN SHORN to 
ZURICH, by WLNTERTHTJR. 
—Rail, — 51 in. 



an agreeable walk S. along the 
crest of the Albis, of 3 hrs.] 

History. — Zurich is the place 
where the Reformation first com- 
menced in Switzerland, under the 
preaching of Ulric Zwingli, in 
15 19. It had at an earlier period 
afforded shelter to Arnold of 
Brescia ; and the Protestant silk- 
weavers, driven from Canton 
Tessin by the Jesuits, brought 
hither their trade, now one of 
the staples of Zurich. It was 
an asylum of English Protestants 
banished by the persecutions of 
Queen Mary. The first entire 
English version of the Bible, 
by Miles Coverdale, was printed 
here in 1535. Ziirich was the 
scene of a battle in Sept. 1799, 
when 3 7,000 French uucler Mas- 
sena drove out the Kussians under 
Korsakof, and compelled them to 
fall back upon the Ehine with a 
loss of 8000 men. 

Birthplace : here were born 
Ham merlin the reformer ; Gessner 
the poet, and Gessner the natu- 
ralist ; Lavater (see above) ; and 
Pestalozzi the teacher. 

Manufactures of cotton and silk 
compete in price with those of 
England. Mr. Escher's manufac- 
tory of machinery alone employs 
700 persons, including several 
English overseers. Most of the 
iron steamers on the Swiss lakes 
are made by him, and boats, en- 
gines and all, are earned in jneces 
by carts over the St. Gothard to 
the Italian lakes. 

English Service on Sundays in St. 
Ann's Church. 

Museum Club contains a capital read- 
ing-room, where many English besides 
Joo of the best Continental journals are 
taken in. Travellers can be introduced 
for a few days by a member. Open 8-12 
a.m. and 2-6 p.m. 

Maps, efce. — Leuthold next door to H. 
Baur, speaks English, has a good col- 
lection of guide-books and maps. He is 



Terminus at the harbour of 

_ Komanshorn (Hotel Bodan). 
View from a chateau above the 
lake (Rte. 8). 

Weinfelden Stat., celebrated 14 m. 
for its wines — covered bridge on 1. 

Mulheim Stat — View from a 5 in. 
wooden tower on the summit of 
Hohenrain. 

Trauenfeld Stat, (Inns : 6 m. 
Krone best ; Hirsch) — a mean 
little place (Pop. 2000), but chief 
town of canton Tlrurgovie (Germ. 
Thurgau), on the river Mmg. 
Several cotton, dyeing, and print- 
ing mills. Castle b. nth cent. 

Capuchin Convent, on a hill 
S., f. 1595, now occupied by only 
7 or 8 brothers. 

Winterthur Junct. Stat (see 10 m. 
Ete. 9). 

Zurich (Rte. 9). 16 m. 



45 Rtes. 12, Id.— ZURICH to BERNE, RAG A TZ, and COIRE. 46 



Ete. 12.— ZURICH to BERNE. 
—Railway.— 8o m. 

Trains in 4 to 5 hrs. 

The road is circuitous. By 
Rte. 6 to Olten. Here the 
Basle and Berne line (Ete. 5) is 
joined. 

Berne (Ete. 24). 



Rte, 13. — ZURICH to RA- 
GATZ and COIRE, by the 
LAKES of ZURICH and WAL- 
LENSTADT. —Rail. 

ZURICH to Eng. m. 

Rapper- C a. (by water) about ; 19 

: schwyl ( 5. (by rly.) „ ) 26 

[ Uznach . . . \ ( „ 9 

Wesen ... I j „ 11 

' Wallenstadt . I Rly J ., 12 

Ragatz ... „ 1 J 

Coire ( Rte. 66) J { „ 14 

Rly. or steamboat to Rapperschwyl. 
Rly. to Ragatz. 

a. By water to Rap-persclnmjl. 

Zurich, Ete. 9. There are 10 
or 12 Steamers on the lake. 
They run 8 times a day to Bap- 
perschwyl, 4 times direct, 4 times 
zigzaging from side to side. They 
start from the Bauschanze, and 
reach Bapperschwyl in 2 to 2 J 
hrs. ; Schmerikon in 3 to 4 hrs. 

The Lake of Zurich (1341 ft.; 
26 m. long and 3 broad) has no 
pretensions to grandeur of scenery ; 
that must be sought for on the silent 



and savage shores of the lakes of 
Lucerne, Brienz, and Wallenstadt ; 
but it has the charm of life and 
rich cultivation. Its borders teem 
with population. Every little 
stream turns some mill ; at the 
mouths of the valleys are enorm- 
ous factories, and thus the shores 
of the lake appear an almost un- 
interrupted village. The Sentis, 
Dodi, and Glarnisch peer above 
the nearer hills. The charms of 
this lake inspired the Idylls of 
Gessner, the ode of Klopstock, 
and the prose of Zimmerman. 

Scarcely any of the villages or 
towns on the lake deserve espe- 
cial notice. 

The letters (iV.) and (S.) prefixed to the 
names of towns refer to the 2V. and S. 
sides of the lake. 

(S.) Albis Mt. is the high ridge 
bordering the lake for 12 miles. 

{N.j Kussnacht — (Inn: Sonne) 
2 1 14 Inhab. ; not to be con- 
founded with its namesake on the 
L. of Lucerne, famous in the his- 
tory of Tell. Normal School. 

(S.) Ruschlikon : behind this 
are the baths of Nydelbad, with a 
bath-house, Belvoir, 340 ft. above 
the lake. 

(N.) Meilen — (Inns : Lowe ; 
Sonne) — -3036 Inhab., chiefly silk- 
weavers, with a Gothic ch., built 
1490-9. In the lake opposite, the 
first discovery was made by M. 
Keller of Zurich, in 1854, of the 
ancient lacustrine divelling-places. 
Their remains consist of hundreds 
of wooden piles, of stone and 
bronze weapons, of earthen vases, 
of rudely-woven stuffs, and of 
bones of various animals. 

OS'.) Thalwyl— {Inn: Adler)— 
elegant ch. View from its ter- 
race. Ascent of the Albis. 

(#.) Horgen — (Inns : Meyerhof, 



47 Ete. IB— LAKE of ZVE1CII to EAGATZ and COIER 43 



good; Lowe, clean.) 530oInhab. 
[Here passengers bound for Lu- 
cerne or the Uigi, by way of Zug, 
disembark and cross the hills 
(Ete. 15).] 

(S.) Wadenscliwyl — (Inn : See- 
hof, very fair) — a pretty village, 
Pop. 6000 ; the busiest place on 
the Lake — spacious mills, soap- 
works, silk factories ; Castle 
of M. Dollfuss. 

(S.) Bicliterswyl— {Inn: Drei 
Konige) — a large cotton-factory. 
Zimmerman resided here as phy- 
sician, and in his ' Solitude ' justly 
praises its beauty. [Pilgrims 
to JElnsiedeln usually disembark 
here. (See Ete. 72.) Diligences 
thither in the morning, on arrival 
of steamers, in 2\ hrs., in the 
afternoon to Schwytz.] 

(N.) Stafa — {Inns : Sonne ; 
Lowe) — the largest village on 
this side of the lake, with 4000 
Inhab. ; silk and cotton weavers. 
Gothe resided here 1797. 

Isle of Aufnau was the retreat 
and burial-place of Ulric von 
Hutten, whose satirical writings 
contributed to the spread of the 
Eeformation, but raised up against 
him such a host of enemies that 
lie was forced to fly from the 
court of Charles V. Zwingli 
procured for him an asylum here, 
where he died (1523). 

(N.) Eapperscliwyl {see below). 
Bridge right across the lake, 
more than -§ m. long. It is only 
1 2 ft. broad, and formed of planks 
laid unfastened upon wooden 
piers. One carriage passes at a 
time. The first bridge was by 
Leopold of Austria, b. 1358 : the 
existing bridge b. 1819. Federal 
Arsenal. 

b. By Railway, Zurich to Eap- 



perschwyl, by Vale of the Glatt. 5 
trains daily. 

The rly. runs quite away from 
the Lake by 

V/allisellen Junct. Stat, [where 5 m. 
the line to Winterthur diverges 
1.] ; next following the Glatt 
Thai, a valley teeming with 
manufacturing industry ; and 
passing 

lister Stat, and 8 m. 

Wetzikon Stat, remarkable 3 J m. 
for the lacustrine remains in the 
neighbourhood, especially at Eo- 
benhausen, by the small Pfeiffiher 
See. Eude structures have been 
found 6 ft. below a layer of peat, 
and with them bones of 3 species 
of urochs ; also chamois, bisons, 
beavers, boars, &c, with remains 
of apples, pears, and cherries. 

Riiti Stat 1. the Bachtel mtn., 6 m. 
3670 ft. \Inn on its top. — Pano- 
ramic View. Easy ascent, 2^ 
hrs.] The rly. does not approach 
the Lake of Zurich, until near 

Eapperscliwyl Stat. (Inns : H. 4 m. 
du Cygne (Huber's), good and 
civil ; H. du Lac ; Freihof, in the 
town) — 2500 Inhab. — partly sur- 
rounded by walls. Old Castle 
(der Grafenburg). See Salle de 
Conseil, with its carved work, 
glass. Church, Sacristy, sacred 
vessels. View from the terrace 
near it called Lindenhof. 

Roads N. to St. Gall, and S. across the 
bridge to Einsiedeln (lite. 72) and to 
Glarus, by Laclien (Ete. 74). 

Selimerikoii Stat. (Inn : Eoss), 6 in. 
at the end of the Lake. Castle 
ofGrynau, i t. stands on the IAnth, 
a little above its entrance into 
the lake. 

Uznacli Stat. (Inn: Linth-hof, 2 m. 
very fair), 1293 Inhab., built on 
an eminence. Castle, small, an- 



49 Bte. 13.— ZURICH to RAGATZ and COIRR 



50 



cient. [Diligence to Lachen, 
Einsiedeln, Schwytz, and Brun- 
nen on the Lake of Lucerne.] 
Mines of brown coal at Ober- 
kirch, i m. from Uznach ; large 
cotton - mill, driving 24,480 
spindles, worked by a mountain- 
torrent. 

Valley of Glarus (Ete. 74) now 
opens out, with snow-mtns. near 
its head. From it issues the 
Linth, a glacier-torrent, carrying 
quantities of de^bris, which ob- 
structed its channel and raised its 
bed many feet. Hence repeated 
inundations. The valley between 
the lakes of Zurich, and Wallen- 
stadt was becoming desert, for its 
inhabitants, thinned by annual 
pestilential fevers, abandoned the 
spot. ill". Conrad Esclier sug- 
gested, in 1807, the digging of a 
new bed for the Linth to the Lake 
of Wallenstadt, in whose depths 
it might safely deposit its de'bris. 
He at the same time proposed to 
dig a navigable canal from the 
Lake of Wallenstadt to that of 
Zurich, and to drain the inter- 
vening valley. This important 
public work was completed by 
Escher in 1822, and has been 
perfectly successful. He received 
the title of Yon der Linth, and, 
opposite the opening of the valley 
of the Linth a simple Monumental 
Tablet of black marble has been 
let into the rock by the roadside 
to his memory. 

7m. Linth. Canal: the rly. reaches, 
and runs by its side. 

2Jm. Wesen Junct. Stat. {Inns: 
Zurn Speer, on height, 2 min. 
walk above the Stat. — pension 
agreeable, clean, and comfort- 
able; l'Epee, on the Lake), 500 
Inhab., at the W. end of the 
Lake of Wallenstadt, and in the 



midst of magnificent scenery. 
[Ely. to Glarus (Ete. 74) branches 
rt.] 

[Ascent of the Speer, 3 J hrs. N. 
from Wesen. *View. From the 
top (6021 ft.) in 2 J hrs. to Nesslau 
in the Toggenburg (Ete. 71).] 

[To Wildhaits (Ete. 71) in the 
Toggenburg, over the ridge be- 
tween the Leistkamm and the 
Gulmen, 8 hrs. walk, including 
ascent of Gulmen Mtn. 5872 ft.] 

LAKE OF WALLENSTADT, 

There is no carriage-road on either side 
of the lake, and no steamer now upon it. 

View from 1. seats of rly. 

The Ely. is carried along the 
S. shore through 10 tunnels 
lighted by embrasures. In fine 
weather note the blue light re- 
flected through them from the 
lake on to the roof of the tunnels. 

Lake of Wallenstadt, 1394 ft., 
is 12 in. by 3. Previous to the 
construction of the Linth canal its 
only outlet was a small stream 
called the Magg. Its N. side con- 
sists of colossal cliffs (2000 to 
3000 ft.) of lime and sandstone, 
so steep that there is room for no 
road, and only for a few cottages 
at their base. On the slopes 
above them are populous villages. 
Such a one is A mden (3000 Inhab.), 
with a ch., gardens, and orchards. 
The path to it may be traced up- 
wards from Wesen along the face 
of the mtn. The S. side, of more 
sloping hills covered witli ver- 
dure, is overtopped by the bare 
peaks of distant mtns. Here are 
several villages, and a rough 
path runs along it. The lake 
has the reputation of sudden 
tempests. In Jan. 1 85 1, a steamer 
was submerged by a squall, and 



51 Rte. 15.— ZURICH to WALLENSTADT and COIRE. 52 



every soul on board, 14 in all, 
perished. It was fished rip from 
a great depth. 

St. Quinten is the only hamlet 
on the N. shore. On the S. there 
are numerous villages, at the 
mouths of the gullies, such as 
Terzen, Quarten. These names 
clearly refer to Roman occupa- 
tion. 

On quitting Wesen stat. the 
rly. twice crosses the Linth 
Canal, and is then carried, as 
already described, along the S. 
side of the Wallenstadt Lake. 

4 1 m. Muhlehorn Stat. (Homely little 
Inn, H. Seegarten.) Boat can be 
hired on the Lake. 

2 m. Murg Stat, at the mouth of 
a small valley. Large cotton-fac- 
tory. ( Inns : Kreutz ; Eossli). 
Behind it rises the Miirtschen- 
stock Mt., 7270 ft. It is pierced 
by a natural cavern, which looks 
from the lake like the eye of a 
bodkin. The hole is best seen 
when abreast of Miihlehorn ; it 
might be mistaken for a patch of 
snow. 

The N.E. end of the lake is 
bounded by the 7 picturesque peaks 
of the Sieben Churfirsten, or Kur- 
fiirsten. At their feet lies 

5 m. "Wallenstadt Stat. (Inns : 
Aigle d'Or, near the lake, toler- 
able ; Hirsch— Oerf, or Poste ), 
h m. from the lake. A dull place ; 
travellers have no need to stop 
here. 

[A steep and rugged footpath by 
the side of the Churfirsten (* Views) 
leads over the Hinterruck in 6 
hrs. to Wildhaus (Ete. 71), whence 
Appenzetl may be reached in 
another day (Ete. 63).] 

7m. Mels Stat. (Inn: *Krone). 
[rt. Valley of Scez, Ete. 79; 1. 



Gonzen Mtn. Mines of red hae- 
matite iron-ore in the Gonzen. 
Everything belonging to the 
miners is reddened by it, even 
their cats. A good scramble to 
the summit, 6014 ft. View one of 
the finest of the Eigi class. A 
ladder against the cliff, of 50 steps, 
has to be climbed.] 

The rly. enters the valley of the 
Ehine near 

jSargans Junct. Stat, some way 1 J in. 1 
from the town (Inns : Eossli ; 
Lowe), which stands on the water- 
shed dividing the streams which 
feed the Ehine and the Lake of 
Constance from those which feed 
the Lake of Wallenstadt ; and this 
natural embankment is only 200 
paces across and 19J ft. high. 
As the deposits brought clown by 
the Ehine are constantly raising 
its bed, it is almost certain that 
the river, if left to itself, would, 
at some future time, relinquish its 
present route by the Lake of Con- 
stance, and take a short cut by the 
Lakes of Wallenstadt and Zurich. 
It was calculated by Escher von 
der Linth that the Ehine need rise 
but 19 J ft. to pass into the Lake 
of Wallenstadt. It is recorded 
that the river, swollen by long 
rains in 16 18, was prevented 
taking this direction only by the 
construction of dams along its 
banks. Geologists argue, from 
deposits of gravel, that the river 
actually did pass out this way at 
one time. 

Junction of the rly. (Rte. 66) from 
St. Gall and Rorschach to Coire, with 
that from Zurich by Winterthur. 

The remainder of this route up 
the valley of the Ehine, by 

Ragatz Stat, to 3| m. 

Coire Terminus, is described in 13 m. 
Ete. 66. 



53 



Rte. 15.— ZURICH to LTJCERNE-ZUG. 



54 



Rte. 15.— zusich to LU- 
CERNE and the Rial, by HOR- 
GEN, ZUG, and IMMENSEE. 

ZURICH to m. 
a, Horgen (steamer or road) . 9 
Zug (diligence') .... 10 
Lucerne : 
J?, by direct rly. to Zug and Lu- 
cerne, through Reppisch 
Thai (Rte. 16) 
c, to Immensee (steamer) . . 6 
Kiissnacht (diligence) . . i\ 
Lucerne (steamer) . . 5 
by roacZ. 

(a) Places are booked through. Diligence 
and steamboat correspond, but there is 
time to walk from lake of Zurich to Zug 
while the diligence loiters. If bound for 
the Rigi, leave by the earliest steamer, 
to allow of leisure and to secure rooms ; 
otherwise telegraph for rooms from 
Horgen. 

9 m. Zurich (see Ktes. 7 and 13) to 

Horgen (Inn: Meyerhof; plea- 
sant garden on lake). J m. from 
quay to Dil. office. Car. to Zug, 
12 to 14 fr. Brown coal or lignite 
is found here, not fit for steamers. 

Koad ascends in zigzags. 
* Views from Bocke, a spot J m. 1. 
of road. Ascent of 1 J hr. ; Hirsch 
Inn at top ; then descent by side 
of Sihl E., which is crossed at 

41m. Sihlbriicke. A fine covered 
wooden bridge divides the can- 
tons of Zurich and Zug. 

[Good car.-road 1. (7 m. ; 2 J 
hrs. on foot) by Schonbrunn, a 
watering-place, to Egeri and 
its pretty lake, 2383 ft. (Inn: 
"Wirthschaft and Brauerei, good, 
but homely.) (Ete. 72.) Egeri 
thrives on cotton factories and 
embroideries. Egeri to Zug ijt 
hr. : follow the river to the paper- 
mill ; then cross it and keep above 
AUenwinden.'] 



Baar (Inns numerous), a large 3 J m. 
village with a cotton-mill and 
hone-house. [Path 1. through the 
wood direct to Schonbrunn.'} 

Zug (Inns: a. Hirsch (Cerf),2m. 
good ; Bellevue ; — b. Lowe, civil 
people, well situated), capital 
of canton Zug, the smallest in 
the Confederation, is prettily 
placed on the lake, but looks de- 
serted. Pop. 3800. The canton 
has less than 20,000 Inhab. ; 
chiefly Koman Caths. and agri- 
culturists. 

Ch. of St. Michael, outside the 
town, has a bone-house, containing 
many hundred skulls, each in- 
scribed with its owner's name 
by the relatives. The church- 
yard is crowded with quaint gilt 
crosses for monuments, and the 
graves are planted with flowers ; 
armorial bearings are profusely 
displayed. In Arsenal are ancient 
arms taken by the Swiss. [i| hr. 
Felsenegg, by a good car.-road, a 
favourite pension on the moun- 
tain-side above Zug.] 

Rlwy. direct to Zurich and Lucerne by 
N. of lake (Rte. 16) ; or steamer to Im- 
mensee and Arth. 

Lake of Zug*, 1340 ft., 8 m. by 
I m., and 1200 ft. in greatest 
depth. Its banks are low or 
gently sloping, except where the 
Eigi abruptly closes it on the S. 
Pilatus is in the background. 
The Eossberg, famous for its dis- 
astrous land-slip, rises to the S.E. 
(Ete. 1 7) in r hr. 

A small Steamer crosses the 
lake of Zug 3 or 4 times a day 
to Immensee (011 the way to Lu- 
cerne) and to Arth (at the foot 
of the Rigi), in 1 hr. 

St. Adrian. Near it is a monu- 7 m. 
ment on the supposed spot where 
the arrow fell which Henry von 



55 



Rte. 15.— ASCM&t of BIGI—QOLDAXJ. 



56 



Hunenberg shot out of the Aus- 
trian lines into the Swiss camp 
before the battle of Morgarten, 
bearing the warning words, " Be- 
ware a of Morgarten ! " It was in 
consequence of this that the Con- 
federates evaded the ambuscade at 
Morgarten (Etc. 72), and gained 
their memorable victory. The 
arrow and the note are in the 
possession of M. Zay, at Arth. 

2 m. Arth {Inns : Schwarzer Acl- 
ler, good ; H. du Rigi). Charm- 
ingly placed between the Rigi 
and Eossberg, at the S. end of 
the lake. In the Treasury of 
the Church is a rich crucifix 
and chalice of silver of Charles 
the Bold, captured at battle of 
Grandson. Ascent of Rigi, see 
below. 

4 J m. Immensee. (Inn : H. du Rigi, 
comfortable and moderate.) 
Hence omnibus (Rte. 17)- by 
Tell's Chapel : a fresco on its outer 
wall represents Gessler's death, 
which is supposed to have oc- 
curred near the spot on which 
this chapel stands. It bore origin- 
ally quite another name. Then 
through the 

Holile G-asse (hollow way, now 
much filled up), where Tell, after 
escaping from Gessler's boat, lay 
in wait and shot him with an 
arrow. Beyond this is 

Gessler's Castle, in ruins, a 
proved misnomer. 

2J m. Kiissnacht (Inns : H. du Lac ; 
Hirsch; Rossli). Bridle-path up 
Rigi hence in 3 J hrs. Hence therd. 
runs mostly in sight of the lake 
of Lucerne, and of the Engelberg 
Alps beyond. Castle of New 
Hapsburg, partly destroyed 1352 
by the Lucerners, stands on a 
headland in the bay of Kiissnacht. 

8 m. Lucerne (Rte. 16). 



ASCENT OF THE RIGI, 

See Panorama. 

The Rigi group owes its cele- 
brity not to its height, because it 
is only 5 910 ft. above the sea, but 
to its isolated position, which con- 
verts it into a natural observatory. 
It has the further advantage of 
being very accessible. 5 principal 
mule-paths lead up it. Inns and 
pensions are built on its flanks 
and summit, and hundreds of 
travellers, of all ages and coun- 
tries, ascend it daily in summer. 
The upper part is of brecciated 
rock, " Nagelflue," covered by 
pastures that support 2000 head 
of cattle in summer. The middle 
and lower parts are forest. The 
weather here is very uncertain; 
the traveller must take his chance 
of the continuance, even till sun- 
set, of a promising afternoon. 

Good horse-paths to the top from, 1, 
Goldau or Arth — 2, Immensee — 1, Kiiss- 
nacht— 4, Weggis or Fitznau (Vitznau) 
—5, Gersau. The climb takes from 3 
to 4 hrs. Horses, guides, and porters, 
everywhere at regulated tariffs, which 
are 10 fr. for a horse up, and 6 fr. down 
same day, same road, with 1 or 2 fr. trink- 
geld. Return next day 10 fr. A porter 
6 fr., and 3 to return. A horse may be 
hired for 6 ft-, from Arth to Maria zura 
Schnee (or Klosterli), which is above the 
steepest part of the ascent. Chaises a 
porteur (each bearer 6 fr. up and 6 down). 
Boys may be hired for 1 j or 2 fr. to show 
the way, and carry a light knapsack. Tele- 
graphing from Zurich or Lucerne to 
secure abed, 1 fr. ; answer, specifying the 
No. of the room assigned, 1 fr. 

1, from GOLDAU, or Arth, 3 J 

hrs. The direct path from Arth is 
steep for horses, so the omnibus, 20 
min., is usually taken to Goldau. 
The route thence lies up a deep 
gully, and is agreeably shaded 
from the afternoon sun. The 
view is shut out till the summit is 



59 Bte. 15.— ASCENT of RIGI— KALTBAD. 60 



nearly reached. The path strikes 
from the Inn of the Cheval Blanc 
up the mountain. It passes fields 
strewn with rocks that have fallen 
from the Kossberg and bounded 
across the valley. Unteres Dachli 
(3084ft.), small Inn, a usual bait- 
ing place for 5 min. The ruin of 
the Rossberg can well be traced 
from here, stretching away into 
the lake of Lowertz. [Here the 
direct and steeper path from Arth 
falls in.] The " Stations," a series 
of 13 rude pictures, lead hence 
to the pilgrimage ch. of S. Maria 
zmnSclmee. [At the 3rd station 
is a path 1. to the Scheidech.^ 
Ober Bachli is the half way. Here 
the forest ends and the pastures 
begin. [At the station of "the 
Bearing of the Cross " the path 
from Lowertz falls in. Here is 
also rt. a steep but ill-marked 
way leading direct to the Kulm : 
time is generally lost by taking- 
it.] Maria zum Schnee is a little 
ch. visited by pilgrims especially 
on Aug. 5, on account of Papal 
indulgences granted in the 17th 
cent. There is also a festival 
with athletic sports on July 22, 
the foundation- day of the ch. 
The adjacent hospice is inhabited 
all the year by 3 or 4 Capuchins, 
and called Klosterli. It is sur- 
rounded by a group of Inns. (The 
Schwert pension and the Sonne 
are frequented by invalids for 
goats'-whey.) In 40 min. from 
Klosterli the Rigi-Staffel Inn is 
reached. ^ hr. thence to the 
Kulm. 

2, from IMMENSEE, 3 J hrs. 
Rather less steep and 1 m. longer 
than from Goldau. It is exposed 
to the sun. In 10 min. the high 
road from Kiissnacht to Arth is 
crossed. The path ascends by 
the rt. of the Inn (Ilge) on the 



road. About J way up, this 
joins the path from Kiissnacht. 

3, from KTJSSNACHT, 3 hrs., 

which is reached from Lucerne 
by steamer. The path is about 
as long and as steep as that from 
Goldau. Passing the ruins of 
Gessler's Castle, Rte. 17, on the 1., 
the path zigzags up the mountain 
to the Seeboden pasture. The 
Lake of Lucerne is in sight al- 
most all the way. Thence to 
the Staffel, and on to the Kulm. 

4, from WEGGIS, 3 J hrs. (Inns: 
Eintracht ( Concordia) ; Lowe), on 
the Lake of Lucerne, and reached 
by steamer. It is surrounded by 
fruit-trees, and built on a narrow 
ledge at the foot of the Rigi. The 
path up it is steeper than the 
other routes. It cannot be missed. 
Horse to the Kulm, 10 frs. ; to 
the Kaltbad, 8 frs. 1 hr. Hei- 
ligenkreutz, a little ch. ; then J 
hr. under the Kochstein is Felsen- 
thor, a natural archway of huge 
rocks, betraying by their position 
a tendency of the mountain to 
cleave and to give way. Thus 
in 1795 a great torrent of mud 
advanced out of the flank of the 
Rigi upon Weggis, moving slowly, 
like a lava-current, and taking 
a fortnight to reach the lake. 
There were clearly in this in- 
cident the elements of a catas- 
trophe like that of the Rossberg. 

ihr. Kaltbad Pension, 4727 ft. 
(3310 above L. of Lucerne), one 
of the most comfortable hotels in 
Switzerland ; in spite of its ele- 
vation supplied with every con- 
venience, and even luxury ; rooms 
warmed with stoves, grand salle 
a manger, excellent cuisine, and 
accommodation for 240 guests. 
It is in a fine healthy situation 
overlooking the lake, sheltered 
from N. and W. Reading-room, 



61 Bte. 15.— ASCENT of 



BIGI—tJie SUMMIT. 62 



baths, whey, letters daily. The 
society is chiefly German, and 
good. The Kaltbad spring gushes 
out of the rock at a temperature 
of 41 Fahr., and is the best in 
Switzerland. 

Pleasant and convenient walks 
in all directions through the 
woods and over the pastures, 
decked with wild flowers, and 
commanding grand and varied 
views. Near the chapel and the 
spring is a quiet retreat called the 
Wildniss, where are seats among 
pines, and blocks of conglome- 
rate. At io min. distance is the 
Kanzeli, commanding a better 
sunset view than the Kulm over 
the lake, Lucerne, Pilatus. Dis- 
tances : to Waggis i hr. 28 min. ; 
to Staff el 25 min. ; to Kulm 50 
min.; to Immensee 2 h. 11 min. 
The patients at the old Kaltbad 
used to get into the baths with 
their clothes on, and then walk 
about till they were dry. 

After leaving the Kaltbad the 
path goes N.W. till it reaches the 
shoulder of the mountain, then 
N.E. to the Staffel. 

5, from GEESAU (seeRte. 18), 
4J hrs. Crossing meadows, pass- 
ing a cascade, and traversing 
fallen rocks, ij hr. to TJnter 
Geschwand (Inn). Then, after 
St. Joseph's Oh., keeping 1. ij 
hr. to the Eigi Scheideck {Inn 
and Pension); 150 beds, mag- 
nificent view, and many pleasant 
walks; baths. 1 hr. to Maria 
zum Schnee, on the Goldau path 
(a), and so to the top. 

There are many other ways up 
the Rigi more or less fit for horses, 
as from Lowertz (Etc. 17), which 
in 3 m. falls into the Goldau 
route, or from Fitznau (neat little 
Inn). The pedestrian can find 
his way wherever he likes, just 



as over a Westmoreland moun- 
tain. 

Descent. — Whatever route is 
taken to the ascent, no doubt the 
descent should be to Weggis, for 
the beauty of the view in face. 

SUMMIT OF THE EIGI. 

All the principal paths con- 
verge in front of the Staff elhaus 
(a tolerable Inn), J hr.'s walk 
below the top, and therefore it is 
a bad plan to stop there. 

The Kulm, or culminating point 
of the Rigi, is covered with turf. 
A few feet from the top stands 
the Inn, a group of large build- 
ings. 40,000 persons are said to 
visit it in a year ! The arrange- 
ments are generally good, but 
some complaints are made. Tra- 
vellers not on foot should bring 
cloaks with them, as the cold 
is often intense ; thermometer 
marking 76 0 in Lucerne at mid- 
day, was 37 0 on the Rigi at 
sunset, and 31 0 at sunrise. The 
beds feel damp, though no one 
appears to suffer. The house 
is warmed with stoves even in 
summer. In 1855 the landlord 
paid for a piece of ground on 
which the new building stands 
(96 ft. by 55 ft.) 2000?. to the 
canton. 

During summer the Kulm inn 
is crammed, and numbers are 
turned away from the doors. In 
the evening is a table-d'hote 
supper ; after which it is late 
before the hubbub and trampling 
subside. Whether the traveller 
have slept or not, he is roused 
1 hr. before sunrise by the 
grating sounds of a wooden horn, 
which is played until every 
particle of sleep is dispelled. 
Then commences a general stir, 



V 



44 j 



3b 




jRfe. 15.— The RIGL 



64 



and 200 or 300 people meet on 
the Kulm, with shivering limbs 
and half-open eyes, to await the 
glorious prospect of a sunrise 
from the Kigi. Fortunate are 
they for whom the view is not 
marred by clouds and rain. 

Sunrise. — A glare of light in 
the E. gradually dims the flick- 
ering of the stars; it soon be- 
comes a streak of gold along the 
horizon, and is reflected in a 
pale pink tint upon the snows 
of the Bernese Alps. Summit 
after summit slowly catches the 
same golden hue ; the dark space 
between the horizon and the Kigi 
is next illuminated ; forests, lakes, 
hills, rivers, towns, and villages, 
gradually become revealed, but 
look cold and indistinct until the 
red orb surmounts the mountain 
top, and darts his beams across 
the landscape. The shadows are 
then rolled back, as it were, and 
in a few moments the whole scene 
is glowing in sunshine. The 
view is best seen during the J hr. 
before and after sunrise; after 
that the mists curl up, and 
usually shroud parts of it. 

View. — The most striking por- 
tions of this panorama, which 
extends over a circumference of 
300 in., are the greenish-blue lakes 
of Lucerne and of Zug ; the 
branching arms of the former ex- 
tend in so many different direc- 
tions as to bewilder one, and both 
lave the mountain so closely that 
the spectator might fancy himself 
in a balloon, and think, by one 
step, to plunge into them. Eight 
other lakes may be seen, but they 
are so small and distant as to 
look like pools, or like spilt 
water. 

On the N. side the eye looks 
down into the lake of Zue, and 



65 



Bte. 15.— THE BIGL 



the streets of Arth ; at the end 
of the lake the town of Zug, and 
behind it the spire of the Ch. of 
Kappel, where Zwingli, the Re- 
former, fell in battle. This is 
backed by the chain of the Albis, 
and through gaps in its ridge 
may be discerned a few of the 
houses of the town of Zurich, 
and two little bits of its lake. 
Over the 1. shoulder of the Boss- 
berg is part of the lake of Egeri, 
on whose shores the Swiss gained 
the victory of Morgarten. The 
N. horizon is bounded by the 
Black Forest hills. 

On the TP. the prospect is 
more open and map-like, and 
therefore less interesting. Close 
under the Eigi lie Tell's Chapel, 
on the spot where he shot 
Gessler, and the village and bay 
of Kussnacht. Farther off, nearly 
the whole canton of Lucerne 
is in view; — the Eeuss wind- 
ing through the midst of it. 
Above the Eeuss is the lake of 
Sempach, the scene of another 
triumph of Swiss valour. Lu- 
cerne, with its coronet of towers, 
is distinctly seen at the W. end 
of the lake, and on the 1. of it 
rises the gloomy Pilatus, cutting 
the sky with its serrated ridge. 
The remainder of theW. horizon is 
occupied by the chain of the Jura. 

On the S. the mass of the Eigi 
forms the foreground, and only 
here and there allows the lake 
of Lucerne to be seen. From rt. 
to 1. are the lakes of Alpnach and 
Sarnen, buried in woods (by 
whose side is the road to the Bru- 
nig) ; the mountains called Stanzer 
and Buochseihorn ; and behind 
them the magnificent white chain 
of the high Alps of Berne, Unter- 
walden, and Uri, in one unbroken 
ridge of peaks and glaciers, in- 
cluding the Jungfrau, Eiger, 

Kp. Sivitz, 



Finster Aarhorn, the Titlis, the 
Uri Eothstock, and the Bristen- 
stock (between which and the 
Seelisberg runs the road of St. 
Gothard). 

On the E. the Alpine chain 
continues to stretch along the 
horizon, and includes the Dodi, 
the Glarnisch, and the Sentis. 
In the middle distance, above 
the L. of Lowertz, lies Schwytz, 
the cradle of Swiss freedom, 
backed by the two singular sharp 
peaks called, from their shape, 
Mythen (the Mitres). To their 
rt. is the opening of the Muotta 
Thai, famous for the conflicts 
between Suwarrow and Massena, 
where armies manoeuvred and 
fought on spots which, before 
them, the shepherd alone used 
to tread. Farther to the 1. rises 
the mass of the Eossberg (see 
■Bte. 17), — the nearest mountain 
neighbour of the Eigi. The 
chasm on the top, whence the 
ruin came; the course of the 
avalanche of stones, diverging in 
their descent ; the lake of Lo- 
wertz, partly filled up by it ; and 
the pools caused in the valley 
by the stoppage of the water- 
courses, are seen at one view. 
The very distant peak above the 
Eossberg is the Sentis. 

The " Spectre of the Eigi " is, 
not unfrecjuently seen. It oc- 
curs when vapours rise from the 
valley, on the side opposite to 
the sun. The shadows of the 
Kulm and of persons on it are 
then cast upon the mist, and are 
encircled by a prismatic halo. 



67 



Bte. 16.—ZUBICH to 



ZUG and LUCERNE. 68 



Rte. 16, — ZURICH to ZUG- 
[the RIGI] and LUCERNE, by 
^-—^ Bail, through the REPPISCH 
THAI. 

: 4 trains daily, 2 \ and 3 hrs. 
I It qnits the Ely. to Bale and 
Qlten (Rte. 6) at 

Altstetten Junct. Stat. After 
crossing the Sihl it surmounts a 
, ridge in curves, and descends into 
Yale of Eeppisch ; 1. the TJetli- 
berg (View) Tunnel. 
^ Bonstetten Stat. 



Knonau Stat. The villages 
seem buried in orchards. Lake 
of Zug. Cross the Lorze, which 
descends from the lake of Egeri 
to that of Zug. 

Zug Stat, (see Rte. 15). Pas- 
sengers for the Rigi cross the 
lake in steamer to Arth. 

The branch to Lucerne from 
Knonau passes Chaam Stat,, 
skirting W. shore of Zug lake, in 
full view of the Rigi, and enters 
vale of Reuss. 



resides here. No particular trade 
or manufacts. It lies in a situa- 
tion of matchless beauty on the 
lake between Pilatus and the Rigi, 
and in sight of the snow mtns. of 
Schwytz and Engelberg, and is 
divided by the Reuss, which here 
issues from the lake. It has an- 
cient walls and watch-towers, 
1385 a.d., and 3 Bridges, 2 of them 
quaintly roofed over. In the Muh- 
lea- or Spreuer-brucke, which is 
the bridge furthest from the lake, 
are hung old half-effaced paintings 
of the Dance of Death. The 2nd 
is the Beuss-brycke, uncovered 
and passable for carriages. The 
nearest to the lake is the CapeU- 
briidke, a cool and shady walk, 
whence the sea-green swirling 
Reuss shows to advantage; 77 
pictures are hung here. Those 
seen in going from Zurich repre- 
sent the life of St. Leger and 
St. Maurice, Lucerne's patron 
saints. Those seen in returning 
are from Swiss history, and of little 
note. The Wasserthurm, a part 
of the old fortifications, rises above 
the middle of the Capellbrueke. 
It is said to have been a light- 
house (Lucema), hence the name 
of the town. Note the Gothic 
fountains about the town. 

Walk round Lucerne— Start from land- 
ing-place of steamers; — cross Capell- 
briicke — Post-office ; — cross Reussbriicke ; 
— cross Muhlenbriicke ; — see old arsenal 
(Zeughaus); back across bridge to Pfyff'er's 
model of Switz ; — back to landing-place : 
— saunter down avenue > — note the dial 
indicating the mountains : — walk to Thor- 
waldsen's lion;— Stauffer's stuffed birds 
and beasts ;— return by Hof Kirche ; and 
finally bathe. 

The Old Arsenal (Zeughaus) 
contains historical relics of Swiss 
valour at Sempach; also 2 Turkish 
standards from Lepanto, taken 
by a Swiss Knight of Malta. 

Gen. Pfyffers Model o/Stoitzer- 



Ebikon Stat. Tunnel ; bridge 
over Reuss. Tunnel under the 
hill of Gibraltar. 

Lucerne Stat. 

Lucerne. 

Inns : Schweitzer Hof(R. des Suisses) ; 
LuzerntrHof; Englischer Hof— all very 
good ; H. du Rigi, comfortable ; Schwann 
(Cygne). These inns face the lake. Pen- 
sions '.— Worley's, by the Capell Briicke, 
clean and comfortable ; Morel, com- 
fortable ; Mtiller and Seeburg, $ hr. from 
town; Kaufmann; Bamman. 

12,500 Inhab. (all but 650, 
Rom. Oaths.). A Papal Nuncio 



Affoltern Stat. 1. road to the 
Albis (fine view), by the small lake 
of Tiirl. 



71 



Bte. 16.— LUCERNE— PILATUS. 



72 



land, 5 in. to a mile, is interest- 
ing (i fr. adm.). 

A Dial is mounted on a low 
pillar near the middle of the 
avenue, on the Lake side, on 
which a panoramic map of the 
neighbourhood is engraved. Cop- 
per rods are inserted into each 
noteworthy spot, of such heights, 
that, when severally sighted from 
a fixed eye-piece, the mountains 
and villages are singled out and 
identified. 

Tkorwaldseiis Lion, carved in 
the living rock, 28 ft. long, 18 ft. 
high, is a monument to the Swiss 
Guards who fell Aug. 10, 1792, 
when defending the French Koyal 
family from the mob of Paris. 
It lies in a quiet garden 10 min. 
N.E. of the town, outside the 
Waggis Gate. Thorwaldsen de- 
signed, — Ahorn, a sculptor of 
Constance, executed it. One of 
the very few survivors of the 
guard shows it. 

Stauffefs stuffed Swiss birds and 
beasts are really excellent; they 
are so life-like, and the specimens 
are of all ages. 

The Hof or Stiftslcirche, called 
also the Ch. of St. Leger, has a 
ch.-yard filled with quaint monu- 
ments, frescoes by Deschwunden, 
and a good organ played several 
times a week. Bathing-place in 
the lake is a little beyond the Hof 
Kirche. 

Environs. — Walks to the villa 
AUenwinden, perched on the hill 
opposite Thorwaldsen "s Lion, and 
N. of the landing-place ; to the 
Drei Linden, i\ m. E. ; to the 
Gutsclii and Gibraltar, both to the 
W., over the river. 

English Service every Sunday in the 
Protestant ch. behind the Schweitzerhof. 
Books, prints, and maps, Eglin, in the 
Kapell Strasse. Reading-room, at the 
Museum (near the post-office). Strangers 
are readily admitted. 



Steamers many times a day in different 
lines traverse the Lake from end to end 
and from side to side (see Kte. 18). 
Those who are not going over the St. 
Gothard ought at least to explore the 
Lake as far as Fliielen and hack, which 
may be done in 5 or 6 hrs. Passengers 
can take places on board by the diligences 
with which they are connected. For the 
Lake, see Rte. 18, and its map. 

Railway Terminus, S. bank of Reuss — 
1. to Bale and Geneva; 2. to Zurich, 
St. Gall, Constance. 

Row-boats on the Lake 75 c. the hour 
the boat ; 75 c. each rower. 

The ascent of the Rigi may be made 
in 4^ hrs. from Lucerne (see Kte, 15). 



Pilatus-. See Panorama. 

Mt. Pilatus, the serrated mtn. 
rising S.W. of Lucerne, is now a 
rival excursion to the Kigi ; its 
top is 1400 ft. higher, but the 
ascent is nearly as easy ; the view 
has merits of its own, and the 
ground is less overrun. There 
are 2 good Inns : the Bellevue, 
close to the Esel peak, reached 
from the side towards Alpnach; 
and the H. du Klimsenhorn, 
reached from Hergiswyl, con- 
siderably lower. 

The high peak of the Esel 
is accessible by a regular path. 
Another to the Tomlishorn is 
made from the H. Khmsenhorn. 
The Widderfeld is the highest 
of all, 73 r 5 ft. The mtn. consists 
wholly of nummuhte limestone, 
very fossiliferous near the top. 

History. — According to a wild 
ancient tradition, the mtn. re- 
ceived its name from Pontius 
Pilate, who, having been banished 
to Gaul by Tiberius, wandered 
conscience-stricken about it, and 
finally drowned himself in a pond 
— now usually dry — near the top. 
It has consequently a bad re- 
putation. Again, as a western 
outlier of the mountains, it is the 
first to condense the vapours drift- 



73 Bte. 1Q.— PILATUS. 

iiig from the rainy west, and is 
therefore to some extent a prophet 
of coming bad weather. The 
peasants say, — 

Wenn Pilatus tragt sein Hut, 
Dann wird das Wetter gut ; 
Tragt er aber einen Degen, 
So giebt's wohl sicher Kegen. 

The superstition of its evil influ- 
ence was so strong in 1555, that 
the naturalist Conrad was forbid- 
den by the Town Government to 
explore the mountain. 

Ascent — Steamer or carriage (1 J 
hr.) to Hergiswyl (Inn: Kossli). 
Horse 10 frs., chaise a porteurs 
20 frs., and guides.. The well- 
made bridle-path, formed at an 
expense of ioocZ. by Blattler, land- 
lord of the Klimsenhorn Inn, 
leads through orchards and up the 
N. side of the mountain, in 4 easy 
hours, to the col, 6287 con " 
necting the Klimsenhorn with the 
Oberhaupt. Here is the H. du 
Klimsenhorn (2 houses belonging 
to the same landlord, with a 
chapel attached). Extensive view 
from the Klimsenhorn, 10 min. 
from the Inn. A well-made zig- 
zag walk leads in f hr. to the 
foot of the Oberhaupt. Here 
a steeply-sloping fissure, 40 ft. 
deep, called the Krisiloch, per- 
forates the summit - ridge. A 
wooden staircase is built in it, up 
which pedestrians mount with 
perfect ease, but it is an absolute 
bar to horses. On issuing at 
the other side an entirely new 
view opens out : 10 min. lower 
down, and at the foot of the ad- 
jacent peak, of the Esel, is the 
Hotel Bellevue, 6961 ft. (atten- 
tive). It is 600 ft. higher than 
the other inn, smaller, but in a 
wilder situation. 

View from the top. — Pilatus is 
more subject to clouds than the 
Eigi; and the grandeur of its 




15 Bte. 17.— LUCERNE to 8 CH W YTZ—B0S8BER G . 76 



own serrated outline, which is so 
striking a feature from the Eigi, 
is of course wanting. Also the 
panorama is less complete. On 
the other hand, the view is in 
some respects finer, and the 
mountain itself is far more in- 
teresting. The snow-peaks best 
seen are the Wetterhorn, Yies- 
cherhorner, Eiger, Monch, and 
Jungfrau. The Lake of Lucerne 
lies open as far as Briinnen. 

Descent. — A well-made horse- 
path (even used as a char-road 
by an English lady, in 1863) leads 
down in 4 hrs. from the Esel, or 
Believue, to Alpnach, passing the 
remains of the famous Alpnach 
timber-slide (Kte. 19). 

Alpnach is reached by steamer from 
Lucerne 3 times a day in i£ hr. 



Rte. 17. - LUCEXtNE to 
SCHWYTZ— the FALL of the' 
BOSSBERG. 

LUCERNE to i Eng. m. 

Kiissnacht 7i 

Arth .5 

Schwytz 9 

Lucerne. (Kte. 16.) 

13 m. Arth, by a road skirting the 
lake, passing Seeberg (Pension), 
Neu Habsburg, a ruined castle, 
at the point of the promontory ; 
it turns into the Bay, at whose 
extremity stands Kussnacht ; 
thence crossing over to Immensee, 
reaches the Lake of Zug (see Ete. 
15). Turning up the valley be- 
tween Bigi and Bossberg, you 
reach 

2J m. Croldau — Inn : Bossli (Cheval 
Blanc, good, civil people). 

Fall of the Eossberg.— On ap- 
proaching Goldau the traveller 
may perceive traces of the 
dreadful catastrophe which in- 



undated the valley in 1806 with 
a deluge of stones and rub- 
bish. In the course of years the 
valley has again become green, 
and its present similarity to 
mountain valleys in general 
shows how often in past ages 
such catastrophes may have hap- 
pened without record kept. On 
the outer wall of the ch. are lists 
of villagers who perished. 

The strata of the Eossberg, or 
Bufiberg, 5190 ft., slope down 
towards Goldau like the roof of a 
house. If the clay which fills 
the seams be washed out by 
rains, or reduced to mud, portions 
of the rock must necessarily slip 
down, like snow from the roof of 
a house when its lower side is 
thawed. 

" The summer of 180& had been 
very rainy : crevices were ob- 
served in the mountain; springs 
of water ceased all at once. A 
few minutes before 5 o'clock the 
whole surface of the mountain 
seemed to glide down, but so 
slowly as to afford time to the 
inhabitants, who were on the 
alert, to go away. 

"Such a mass of earth and 
stones rushed into the Lake of 
Lower tz, 5 m. distant, that one 
end of it was filled up, and a 
prodigious wave (70 ft.) passed 
completely over the island of 
Schwanau, while the rocks 
bounded across the valley towards 
the Bigi, and ascended a great 
way up it." 

The effects of this terrible con- 
vulsion were the entire destruc- 
tion of the villages Goldau, Bus- 
sin gen, and Bothen, and a part of 
Lowertz : r 1 1 houses, and more 
than 200 stables and chalets, were 
buried under the debris of rocks, 
which of themselves form hills 
several hundred feet high. More 



77 Bte. 17. SCHWYTZ. 18. — LAKE of LUCERNE. 78 



than 450 human beings perished, 
and herds of cattle were swept 
away. 

The danger of further falls of 
the mountain is by no means 
past, even now. 

[Near view of the landslip from 
the Gnypenstock, 3 hrs. ascent 
from Arth.] 

2 m. Lowertz, on the margin of the 
lake, lost its church in the same 
catastrophe. One quarter of the 
lake was destroyed by the mud 
and rubbish which entered it, 
and its waters were thrown up 
in a wave 70 feet high to the 
opposite bank, so as to cover the 
island, and sweep away a chapel 
which stood upon it. 

[Footpath up the Bigi, 3 hrs. to 
the Kulm; convenient for tra- 
vellers from Schwytz or Brunnen. 
3 m. above Lowertz it falls into 
the path from Goldau (Ete. 15).] 
The lake is skirted by the road to 

2 J m. Seewen (Inns : Kreutz ; Rossli, 
Baths) ; chalybeate waters. [Path 
direct to Brunnen saves 1 J m.] 
2 m. Schwytz (Inns : Rossli, clean 
and reasonable ; H. Hediger ; 
Pension Jutz), only 5 748 Inhab., 
but " the heart's core of Hel- 
vetia." At the foot of the double- 
peaked ML Mythen (Mitres), 5860 
ft. [The Hacken is the name of 
the mountain mass, of which the 
Mythen is only a part. It is 
usually ascended from Einsiedeln. 
Steep climb ; good view. Inn 
J hr. from top.] 

Cemetery, grave of Aloys 
Reding (d. 18 18), leader of the 
Swiss against the French Repub- 
licans in 1798. 

Bathhaus has portraits of 43 
Landammans, and good wood- 
carving. Arsenal has trophies 
from Morgarten, Laufen, Sem- 
pach, Kappel, Morat, &c. Archiv 



(record-office) is in a rough, high 
tower, with old dungeons below. 
Model of the Muotta Thai at M. 
Schindler's, illustrating the Rus- 
sian and French campaigns (J fr. 
entr.). 

History. — The Schwytzers were 
first known to history in 1200, in 
maintaining their rights against 
the monks of Einsiedeln. The 
name Schwytzer (Swiss) was ex- 
tended to the 3 Forest Cantons 
after the battle of Morgarten, 
their earliest victory, the men of 
Schwytz having taken the lead. 

By the Muotta Thai to Glarus 
and Stachelberg (Rte. 73). 

Xbach. The former assembly- 1 m. 
ground of all the adult males of 
the Canton to choose their officers 
and to legislate. Business was 
opened with prayer. Since 1833 
the General Assemblies are held 
at Rothenthum, on the road to 
Einsiedeln. 

Brunnen (Rte. 18). 3 m. 



Rte. 18.— LAKE of LUCEENE. 

See Map in Rte. 15. 



Steamers 5 times a day from Lucerne 
to Fliielen in 2i hrs., touching at Waggis, 
Beckenried, Gersau, and Brunnen. 3 times 
a day the boats run also to Kiissnach, 
Stanstadt, and Alpnach. Passengers by 
diligences in connection with them can 
book to their journey's end on board. 

Lucerne to Kiissnacht in 30 mill.; 
thence omnibus in 1 hr. to Arth, at the 
foot of the Rigi (Rte. 15). Boats accord- 
ing to tariff (with a bonne-main) ; they 
are clumsy punts, dangerous in storms. 
The winds are singularly fitful. 

The lake, 1434 ft., called "of 
the 4 Cantons," viz., Uri, Unter- 
walden, Schwytz, and Lucerne, 
is eminent for the grandeur of 
its scenery and its classic asso- 
ciations, especially in connection 



Id Hie. 18.- LAKE of LUCERNE. SO 



with William Tell. It is irre- 
gular in shape, and each of its 
long arms has a separate local 
name. The N. W. is called Lucerne ; 
S.W. Stanstad, and beyond it 
Alpnach ; N.E. Kussnacht ; E. 
Buoclis. These four arms form a 
cross, and from the E. end of the 
Buochser arm the Bay of Uri 
stretches S., reaching to Fluelen. 
From Lucerne to Fluelen 25 m. 

The letters (JV), (&), &c., prefixed to 
the names of towns refer to the N". S., &c., 
shores of the lake. 

On leaving Lucerne the shore 
is at first undulating and green, 
dotted with houses. The stern 
outline of Pilatus is a picturesque 
contrast. After the cape of the (N.) 
Meggenliom, the Bay of Kussnacht 
opens out 1., that of Stanstad rt. 
Pilatus looks well from the centre 
of the cross (so to call it) of the 
lake. Looking up the bay of 
Kussnacht, the ruined Castle of 
Neu Hapsburg is perched L, and 
the mountain mass of the Eigi 
occupies the other side of the bay. 
Beyond, is the promontory of (N.) 
Tanzenburg, a spur of the Eigi. 

(N.) Weggis comes into sight. 
It is 7 m. from Lucerne. Here 
passengers land to ascend the Eigi 
(Rte. 15, § 4>. Then Fitznau, 
under the Bothenfluh. Two op- 
posite rocky headlands, Nasen 
(the noses), now close the view : 
but they overlap, leaving a chan- 
nel 1 1 m. between them. Beyond, 
is what seems an entirely new 
lake, viz. the Bay of Buoclis. 

(S.) Beckenried (Inns : Sonne ; 
Mond), a thriving and growing 
place. [To Buoclis, 3 m. ; Stanz, 
6 m. Charming walk over the 
hills, by Seelisberg, to GriitlL'} 

(N.) Gersau (Inn and Pen- 
sion Muller, good; same pro- 



prietor as the Eigi Schiedeck; 
gardens, and bath in the lake), 
built in a quiet cove on a strip of 
land covered with orchards. It 
was an independent state, the 
smallest in Europe, up to 1798, 
and very populous for its size. 
The bare peaks of the Mythen 
(Mitres) above Schwytz now start 
into sight to the E., and in front 
of them is 

- (N.) Brunnen (Inns : Golden 
Adler ; Cheval Blanc ; H. d'An- 
gleterre) . [Brunnen may also be 
reached by road from GersauJJ 
It is a crowded little port, bustling 
with passengers, convenient to 
halt at. The warehouse called 
Sust has a rude painting of the 
3 Confederates swearing alliance 
after the battle of Morgarten. 
Here Aloys Eeding raised the 
revolt against the French in 1798. 
[To Goldau, for the Rigi, char 
(9 fr.) ; or stop at Lowertz, and 
ascend thence. To the Stoss 
Pension, nearly opposite Seelis- 
bers: — elevated, airy : View from 
the Frohn Alp.] 

(S.) Treib, opposite Brunnen, 
is reached by row-boat (make 
your bargain). [Hence a j)&th 
leads up in | hr. to the Pension 
and Curhaus of Sonnenherg, 1300 
ft. above the lake, in, or just 
past, the village of Seelisberg. 
It is a very favourite restingv 
place, and quite full all summer. 
It is built on the brow 7 of a 
precipice overlooking the lake, 
at the foot of the Oberbauer or 
Seelisberger Kuhn (3 hrs. ascent), 
and of the Uri Roth stock (see 
below.) It is surrounded by fir- 
woods : many pretty walks lead 
from it. There is a small lake to 
bathe in. New milk every morn- 
ing at 6. Footpath down to the 
lake at BauenJ 



81 18.— LUCERNE LAKE. 19.— PASS of BRTJNIG. 



Beyond Treib and Bmnnen the 
lake changes its character and 
direction. The Bay of Uri ex- 
tends due S., and lies between pre- 
cipices, the basements of far higher 
mountains. This is the grandest 
part of the lake. 

(E.) The Axen Strasse. In 
1863-65 a military carriage-road 
from Bmnnen to Fluelen was 
made along the base of these pre- 
cipices, previously inapproachable, 
chiefly by blasting and tunnel- 
ling through the rock, at the. 
expense of the Swiss Government. 
It is a fine work of engineering. 
It passes the hamlets Morschach 
and Sisikoia. 

(IF.) The Wytenstein is the 
name of a singular obelisk of 
rock opposite Treib. A mile be- 
yond it is (W.) Griitli or Rutli, 
a meadow-terrace or shelf on the 
face of the mountains, 700 ft. 
above the lake,* the rendezvous of 
the 3 founders of Swiss freedom, 
Werner Stauffacher of Schwytz, 
Arnold an der Halden of Unter- 
walden, and Walter Fiirst of Uri, 
who met there on the night of 
Nov. 7, 1307, and bound them- 
selves by oath to free their country. 

(E.) The Axen Strasse runs a 
little to the 1. of Tell's Chapel, 
placed on a ledge level with the 
water, opposite Griitli, where Tell 
is said to have sprung on shore 
out of the boat in which Gessler 
was carrying him prisoner to 
Kiissnacht. It was built in 1388, 
31 years after Tell's death, in the 
presence of 114 persons who had 
known him personally, and is 
lined with rude paintings of 
scenes in his life. On the first 
Friday after Ascension there is 
mass and a water procession. Tun- 
nel through the buttress of the 
Axenberg. (Tell's Platti Hotel.) 

After rounding the cape on 



which Tell's Chapel stands, Flu- 
elen is seen. 

( W.) Isleten, the valley of Isen- 
thal opens out ; view terminated 
by the Uri Roths tock, and in the 
centre by the conical Bristenstock. 
[Boat from Fluelen to Isleten 
{Inn small, but good; : on foot up 
the Isenthal, to ascend the Uri 
Bothstoch, 10,376 ft., grand view 
— the Imfangers are guides ; or 
up the rt. arm of the valley by 
the Schdnegg Pass to Stanz.] 

(E.) Fluelen. Here begins the 
carriage-road over the St, Gothard. 
(Rte. 34.) 



Rte. 19.— BBUNIG PASS — 
LTJCERKE to MEYRXNGEN or 
BRIENZ. (12 hrs.) 

LUCERNE to Eng. m. 

Alpnach Gestad (steamer or 
road) . . . . . . . 15 ; 

Sarnen . . 16 

Briinig Pass 14 

Thence to J *> rien ? • • '■ '• 10 
I Meyrmgen ... 7 

Leaving Lucerne in the morning, Brienz 
is reached by diligence in time for the 
steamers to Interlachen and Thun, and 
thence rly. to Berne. 

From Lucerne, steamer to Stanstad, ■ 
35 min.; or to Alpnach am Gestad (or | 
Gstad), 20 min. more— 55 min. in all ; fare 
2 fr. Diligence from Alpnach am Gestad 
over the Briinig to Brienz. Excellent, 
road. Passengers booked on board the] 
steamers. 

There is frequently a scramble and 
great confusion in obtaining places at 
Gestad, although extra carriages are put 
on. A tip to the conducteur is useful. 
Look well to your baggage. 

The scenery is very pretty and 
soft up to the foot of the pass ; 
from it and its summit grand 
distant views. 



ttte. 19.— The PASS of the BBTJNIG. 



84: 



From Lucerne it is a pleasant 
drive of 13 m. to Alpnacli am 
Gestad, as follows : one descrip- 
tion suffices both for road and for 
lake. You cross a promontory by 
a pretty road by Horn to Winkel, 
on the lake, which is skirted to 

6 m. Hergiswyl {Inn : Rossli), 

[Bridle-path up Pilatus to the 
Klimsenhorn Hotel, 4 hrs. Rte. 
16.3 Road next coasts round the 
base of the Lopper, one of the 
buttresses of Mt. Pilatus, to 

IJm. Achenbrucke, a bridge right 
across the narrow neck of the 
deep bay called Alpnach See, 
which is raised to let steamers pass. 
On the opposite side of the bridge 
is Stanzstadt. Passengers may 
land here and find carriages for 
Lungern (20 m., 5 hrs.) and the 
Briinig, and less bustle than at 
Gestad. The Castle of Rotzberg 
and the watch-tower of Stanzstadt 
were the first stronghold of the 
Austrians of which the Swiss 
confederates gained possession 
(1308). 

31m. Alpnacli am Gestad or Gstad, 
at the end of the Alpnach See, 
where the steamers disembark 
their passengers (Inns: Pilate, 
fair ; Cheval Blanc ; indifferent). 

fim. Mpnach {Inn : Schliissel). 
2 [Bridle-path up Pilatus Mt. to 
the Bellevue Hotel, at foot of 
Esel.] A scattered village at the 
foot of Mt. Pilatus. 

Slide of Alpnacli. — Timber from 
Pilatus was conveyed down to 
the lake by means of a trough 
8 m. long, formed (i8n) of 10,000 
trees, fastened lengthwise, 5 or 
6 ft. wide at the top, and 3 or 
4 ft. deep, extending from a height 
of 2500 ft. Its average declivity 
did not exceed 1 foot in 1 7, yet 
this sufficed to discharge a tree 100 



ft. long and 4 ft. in diameter, in 
6 min., from the upper end of the 
trough, where it was launched, 
into the lake below. The bot- 
tom of the trough was kept wet 
by a rill of water, to diminish 
friction. Watchmen were sta- 
tioned at regular distances, and a 
line of signals, similar to those in 
use .on modern railways, were 
established, to show when any- 
thing went wrong. The timber 
was collected on the lake and 
floated down the Reuss into the 
Rhine, where it was formed into 
rafts, and sold in Holland. The 
slide was taken down in 18 19. 
Similar slides, nearly as long, are 
common in the forests of the 
Tyrol and Styria. (See Handbook 
for South Germany.) 

The road ascends 1. bank of the 
Aar 

Kagiswyl. [Char-road across 3 m. 
the bridge up the Melchthal, Rte. 
20.] 

Sarnen (described col. 86). \ 2 m. 

Fluelen to Sarnen. 

[From Fluelen, steamer on lake 
to Beckenried ( Inn : Soleil, clean 
and good). The town is beauti- 
fully situated on the lake, and 
there are pleasant walks round it. 

Steamer touches 4 times a day. Chars 
and horses. Dil. to Stanz twice a day. 

Road skirts the lake to 

Buochs ; thence to 3 m. 

Stanz — Inns : Krone (Crown) ; 3 m. 
Engel (Angel) — chief place in 
Mclwalden. 

Nicholas von der Flue is one of 
the worthies of Switzerland, par- 
ticularly respected in this canton 
as a patriot and a peace-maker. 
It was in the Bathhaus that this 
venerable man appeased the dis- 



85 



Ete. 19. —The PASS of the BBUNIG. 



sensions of the confederates, in 
148 1, by his wise and soothing- 
counsels, and at the Diet at Stanz 
prevented the dissolution of the 
confederacy. He was honoured 
as a saint after his death (1487). 

Arnold of Wirilcelried was a 
native of Stanz. In the market- 
place is a statue of him with the 
" sheaf of spears " in his arms. 
(See Rte. 4.) His house is also 
shown. 

Massacre by the French. On 
the outer walls of the bone-house 
of the Church is a tablet to 
the memory of the unfortunate 
people of Nidwalden (414 in num- 
ber, including 102 women and 25 
children) who were massacred 
by the French in Sept. 1798. 
This division of the canton was 
the only part of Switzerland 
which refused the French con- 
stitution. The ancient spirit of 
Swiss independence stirred this 
ill-fated community to engage 
with only 2000 men an army of 
16,000. Gen. Schauenburg, the 
French commander, was repulsed 
at first with great spirit by the 
Swiss, but renewed his attack 
every day from the 3rd to the 
9th of Sept., when he forced 
his way. No quarter was given 
on either side. Every house in 
the open country, in all 600, was 
burnt down ; Stanz itself excepted, 
which was saved by the humanity 
of a French brigadier. 

The hill called Stanzerhorn 
may be ascended in 3 or 4 hrs. 

7 m. Kerns (Lin tolerable). Hence 
the pedestrian may make a short 
cut to Sachseln, avoiding Sarnen. 

[Up Melchthal Valley to Engel- 
berg, Rte. 20.] 

2 m. Sarnen (described below). 



S AKNEN TO BRIENZ OR MEYRINGEN, 
OVER THE BRUNIG PASS. 

Sarnen (Inns : Schliissel ; Aigle 
d'Or, fair), 3450 Inhab.,is pleas- 
ingly situated at the end of the 
Lake of Sarnen, which some day 
will be partially drained, like 
that of Lungern. The character 
of its valley is quiet, pastoral, 
and pleasing. The lower half of 
the village is ancient. Bridge is 
nearly 300 years old, constructed, 
like many Swiss bridges, on the 
modern principle of having the 
arch above the roadway. Bath- 
haus, a plain building ; here are 
portraits of the Landammans from 
1 3 8 1 to t 8 2 4. " The artists have 
been particularly successful in 
delineating the beards." A por- 
trait of Nicholas von der Flue 
is there. Above the town is 
Landenberg, on the site of the 
residence of the Austrian bailiff 
who is said to have put out the 
eyes of Henry an der Halden, 
father of one of the confederates 
of Griitli. This contributed to 
the outbreak of the Swiss insur- 
rection. Here is the Canton 
Hospital. 

The road skirts the E. shore 
of the lake [the tired pedestrian 
may take a boat to the upper end 
of the lake, and save 4J m, of 
walking], and traverses the pretty 
village of 

Sachseln (Inns: Kreutz, good; 2 
Engel, comfortable). Church ; in 
a glass case above the altar is 
preserved the body of Nicholas 
von der Flue; crowds of pilgrims 
visit it. Within the ribs where 
the heart was, there is a jewelled 
cross, and from the breast hang 
military orders gained by natives 
of Unterwalden, but offered to the 
use of the dead saint, known to 
the peasants by the name of 



87 



Bie. 19.— The PASS of the BEUNIG. 



88 



Binder Klaus. There is a wooden 
figure in the transept, clothed with 
the saint's veritable robes. The 
w r alls are lined with votive tab- 
lets offered to St. Nicholas, record- 
ing miracles performed by him. 

4 m. Gyswyl (i m. beyond the lake) 
was half swept away in 1629 by 
an inundation of the Lauibach, 
which brought so much rubbish as 
to dam up the waters of the Aa. 
A lake thus created lasted for 
130 years, when it Avas finally let 
off by an artificial canal into the 
lake of Sarnen. 

[Ascent 6 hrs. of the *Rothlwrn. 
Grand View. The path, at least 
for the first 3 hrs., is good; the 
descent into the valley above 
Sorenberg is not so good. (See 
Ete. 25 e.) An Inn is to be built 
on the summit.] 

Kaiserstuhl, a steep and richly- 
'* wooded ascent, by which the road 
reaches a higher platform in the 
valley occupied by the 

Lake of Lungern. This lake 
was formerly embowered in woods, 
and partly enclosed by steep 
banks. The dwellers on its shores, 
however, tapped it in 1836, lower- 
ing its surface by about 120 feet, 
and reducing its dimensions — and 
thereby its beauty — by one-half. 
The tunnel begins near Burglen," 
and is carried up in a gradual slope 
to the lake. Before the engineer 
Sulzberger took the matter in hand, 
progress had been made ; but the 
most difficult part remained, viz. 
to break a passage into the lake 
without loss of life to those em- 
ployed, He had recourse to a 
mine, driving a shaft, 6 ft. square, 
to within 6 ft. of the bottom of 
the water. A cask of 950 lbs. of 
powder was conveyed to the end 
of the shaft and exploded. The 
drainage was effected gradually 



and safely. Much float-wood was 
found in the bed of the lake ; it 
had assumed the appearance of 
brown coal. The cost of this en- 
terprise was 2000L, and 19,000 
days' labour performed by the 
peasants. 

Lungern (Inns : * Hotel Briinig, 31 
good ; Lowe ; Post), about 10 m. 
from Sarnen, the last village hi 
the valley, situated at the foot of 
the Briinig, and at the S. end 
of the lake, now removed by the 
drainage some distance from it. 

The carriage - road over the 
Briinig, leaving the old mule-path 
1., ascends in well-constructed zig- 
zag sweeps, through the forest, 
until it reaches the 

Summit of the Pass f3294 ft,). 
*View from its N. side along 
the entire valley of Nidwalden, 
backed by the Pilatus, with the 
Lungern See for a foreground, i 
From its S. brow, the valley of 
Hash, with the Aar winding 
through the midst, opens out, 
backed by the crests of the Wet- 
terhorn, Eiger, and others of the 
Bernese Alps, and in front of 
them the Faulhorn, 

[There is a short cut for pedes- 
trians to Brienz, also a bridle- 
path of 5 \ 111.] 

[Ascent of Wylerhom (5895 
ft-)] 

Streaks of white on the opposite 
precipices, are the Falls of the 
Eeichenbach, the Oltschibach, 
and others. 

Descent steep, by an excellent 
new road rt., to 

Bridge of Brienz wyler. [June- 4 111 
tion with high road from Meyrin- 
gen (Etc. 25 d) to Brienz (Ete. 

25 E).] 

Brienz, or taking left-hand 3 m 
road direct to 

Meiringen, and Eeichenbach, 6 111 



89 Rte. 20.— MELCHTHAL. 



24. — BERNE to THUN. 90 



Rte. 20. - MELCHTHAL. - 
SARNEN to ENGELEERG cr 
MEIRINGEN. 

The Melchthal is parallel to 
the valley of Engelberg, and 
connected with it by 2 easy foot- 
passes, — a. Storegg; b. Jauchli. 
It was the native place of Arnold, 
one of the 3 conspirators of 
Griitli, who was ploughing, when 
a messenger from the bailiff ex- 
acted his yoke of oxen. He beat 
him in a rage, and fled, fearing 
vengeance. The bailiff seized his 
father, and put out his eyes. 

The Melchtbal opens E. of 
Sarnen (Ete. 19), and a char-road 
leads 6 m. up it. At its mouth, 
by the Ch. of St. Niklausen, is an 
ancient isolated tower ; opposite 
is the Ranft, the site of the her- 
mitage of Nicholas von der Flue 
(Ete. 19). Thence up the valley; 
chalets cover the slopes on either 
side. 

In the higher part of the 
Melchthal the Melclisee (6432 
ft. ? ) lies near chalets of the same 
name. The stream that runs out 
of it is lost in the ground and re- 
appears after an interval. 

A mountain pass leads from it 
over into the Gentelthal, 1 hr. 
below Engstlen, and another 
diverging mountain route takes 
by the Flan platte and Hasliberg 
direct to Meiringen. 

To Engelberg. 

a. Storegg bridle-pass leaves the 
char-road just beyond the bridge, 
t m. from Ranft, and 4 m. from 
Kerns or Sarnen, and thence takes 
4-J hrs. It is frequented, but not 



easy to trace. Apply for a guide 
at the cure's of Melchthal, 1 m. 
further up the valley. Steep 
ascent of 2 hrs. to the Col (5 705 
ft.) ; snow frequently in patches : 
then descent of ^ hr. to the little 
Lautensee, which is left on the 1. ; 
thence a descent of 1 hr. to Junc- 
tion with Jauchli road {see below), 
and I hr. on to Engelberg. (Ete. 
3i.) 

b. Jauchli foot-pass. The path 
diverges from a higher part of the 
valley, viz. from the end of the 
char-road, 1 m. above the ham- 
let of Melchthal, or 6 m. from 
Sarnen, and thence takes 4 hrs. 
Steep zigzags, up grassy slopes, 
in 2 hrs. to the Col (7119 ft.); 
usually snow. The path traverses 
a gap where there is deep moss 
and many flowers. Then descent 
of 1 J hr. to Junction of Storegg 
route, and £ hr. on to 

Engelberg (Ete. 31). 



Rte. 24.— BERNE to THUN", 
LAKE of THUN", and INTER- 
LAKEN. 

Berne {Inns : (a) Bernerhof, one 
of the best in Switzerland, but 
dear — view of Alps; (b) H. de 
1' Europe ; *Schweitzerhof, very 
good ; H. Bellevue, excellent, with 
every comfort ; H. du Faucon. 
2nd Class: Pfistern (Bakers); 
Storch ; Affe. Pensions : Saggi, at 
La Villette, is recommended. 

Berne, the permanent seat of 
the Swiss Government (Pop. 
30,000), is beautifully situated on 
a high promontory wound round 
by the river Aar. Its main street, 
distinguished by the massy ar- 
cades on both sides, runs due 
E. from the rly stat., down the 



91 



92 




middle of the long, narrow pro- 
montory, to the Nydeckbrucke, be- 
yond which are the bear-pits, 
J hour's walk from the rly. stat. 
The street passes under i curious 
old towers. Water-channels run 
below the pavement, and there 
are quaint fountains, several of 
them decorated with figures of 
bears, the symbol of the canton 
(see Kinderfresser Brunnen, 
Ogre's Fountain), 

A icaZIc through Berne (or drive in a 
cab) from stat. (Post-office is near at 
hand, on 1.) : — 

Follow the main street nearly as far as 
the Kcifig Tower. 

Down the broad street to the rt. to 
the B uncles Bathhaus, or Federal Honse 
of Parliament, a stately palace. Yieio of 
distant snow mountains at end. 

Back to Kajig Tower, pass through it, 
and follow main street. 

Clock-tower, or ZeitglocJcenthurm. 3 
min. before the clock strikes, droll pup- 
pets appear, viz., a wooden cock that 
flaps its wings and crows, then a pro- 
cession of bears ; the crowned figure 
gapes and lowers his sceptre at each 



stroke of the clock. At the E. end of 
the main street cross river Aar by 

Nydeclcbrucke, to the 

Bears' Den, just beyond it. 

Back again up main street half as far 
as the clock-tower, thence turn to 1. 
(south) to see the 

Minster, and View of snow Alps from 
terrace behind it : these are the two chief 
sights here. 

Back to stat. To Schlinzli : finer view. 

The Minister, built 1421-1457, 
somewhat in the style of S trass- 
burg Cathedral. Many of the 
ornaments are not inferior to 
those of Strassburg. See TP. 
portal, sculptured Last Judg- 
ment. Organ, modern and good, 
played daily. 3 windows of old 
painted glass in the choir. Tablets 
bearing 683 names of Swiss who 
fell fighting the French at Grau- 
holz in 1798. In the Sacristy 
embroidered robes captured from 
Charles the Bold at Grandson. 
Equestrian Statue of Budolph von 
Erlach, the conqueror at Lauroen, 
is outside, ojmosite the W. door. 



95 



Rte. 24.— BERNE. 



96 



*,* The Platform or Terrace 
behind the Minister is remarkable 
for View of 6 snowy peaks of the 
Bernese chain (not so many as 
from the Enge, or Schanzli). (See 
Frontispiece.) 

Bronze statue of Berchtold of 
Zahringen. Tablet recording the 
leap of a student on horseback 
over the parapet, and his escape 
alive. 

Museum. An excellent collec- 
tion of the Natural History of 
Switzerland in all its branches. 
The geological part contains 
Studer's Collections ; reliefs of 
parts of Switzerland ; antiquities 
dug up ; trophies of Swiss battles. 

Bundes Bathhaus (or Federal 
Palace), by the architects Kubli 
and Stadler ; a stately pile, a 
noble building. The Diet consists 
of 2 bodies, — the Stdnde-rath (44 
deputies of the Cantons) and the 
National-rath. They meet gene- 
rally in July in 2 separate halls. 
Debates are public. In this 
building is a Picture Gallery ; 
good works of Swiss artists, 
Calame, Diday, E. Girardet. 

Charitable Institutions are nu- 
merous and remarkably w T ell 
managed. 

History. — Berne was founded, 
in 1191, by Duke Berchtold Y. of 
Zahringen, on the spot where he 
had killed a bear. It joined the 
Swiss Confederation in 1353. 
Until 1798 it held several districts 
as tributaries, and governed them 
tyrannically. It was ruled by an 
oligarchy who lost their power in 
1798, partly recovered it in 1814, 
and lost it again in 1831. Until 
1848 the Swiss Diet met at 
Berne, Zurich, and Lucerne al- 
ternately. 

Bear-pits (Barengraben), at the 
E. Bide of town, beyond the 
handsome granite Nydeclc bridge, 



There are plenty of bears, and 
they are usually amusing beasts. 
But a sad accident haprjened 
here, 186 r, when an English gen- 
tleman fell into the pit at night, 
and failing of assistance was 
mangled and killed by them. 

English Service in the Chapel of the 
Burger Spital. 

Casino contains a reading-room, &c. 
VTatchmaJcer, J. Konig, near the Clock- 
tower. 

■Railways — To Bale, Olten, Zurich, 
Lucerne, 7 trains ; to Bienne, lite. 2 ; to 
Freiburg and Lausanne, 4 trains ; to 
Thun (Bernese Oberland), 4 trains. 
(Rte. 24.) 

Environs. — There are two fa- 
vourite cafes, the Schanzli and 
the Enge. They are both 15 or 
20 min. drive to the N. of the 
rly. stat., and both command 
grand views of the distant Alps. 
The Aar is crossed by the rly. 
bridge to reach the Schanzli. 



Berne to Thun. Rly. 4 trains 
daily, 2 hrs. 

View of snow mtns. at first from rt., 
afterwards from L, seats of rly. carriage. 

The snowy Alps in sight nearly 
the whole way. The valley of the 
Aar is laid out in pasture, substan- 
tial farm-houses, and gardens. 

Munsingen Stat. The great 10 m. 
public meetings of 1831 and 1849, 
which overthrew the Bernese oli- 
garchy, were held here. Stock- 
holm and Niesen mtns., advanced 
guards of the Alps, stand out pro- 
minently while nearing 

Bridge across Aar. 6 m. 

Thun Stat (Fr. Thoune) (Inns: 3| m. 
H. Bellevue, outside the town, in 
a garden above the Aar ; H. and 
Pension Baumgarten, clean and 
pleasant ; Campagne et Pension 
Itten, comfortable, and moderate 
charges ; fine views), a pic- 



Pde. 2L—LAKE of THUN. 



03 



turesque old town in a charm- 
ing situation in view of the Alps, 
upon the Aar, just where it quits 
the Lake of Thun ; 3800 Inhab. 
A venerable ch. and feudal castle 
(1429) rise above the town. 

Chartreuse, country house J m. 
above H. Bellevue. View. 

Churchyard terrace, reached by 
a covered staircase from the 
bridge. View ; the Bliimlis Alp 
is the most conspicuous peak. 

English Church in grounds of 
H. Bellevue. 

Castle of Schadau, b. 1850, by 
M. Eougemont of Paris. 

Here is the Military College of 
the Swiss Confederation, for 
officers ; Barracks for artillery 
and cavalry. Summer reviews held 
here. 

^Ascent of Niesen. — a very ac- 
cessible summit, and remarkable 
point of *View. Post-road and 
diligence as far as Brodhusi, 
thence (1.) char-road, 2 m., to 
"Wimnxis, at the foot of the mtn. 
Ascent from Wimmis 4J hrs. ; 
descent 3 hrs.: 1 horse 15 fr. 5 
min. from the top is a wooden 
Inn, 24 beds, recommended for 
cleanliness, though not for cook- 
ery. Summit (7763 ft.); wear view 
of snowy chain (W.) from the 
Artels and Binderhorn to (E.) the 
"Wetterhom, the finest object being 
the Bliimlis Alp, and the range be- 
tween it and the Jungfrau. The 
more distant view comprises the 
top of Mont Blanc and the Dent 
du Midi ; Monte Bosa and the 
Matterhorn are more or less 
hidden behind the peaks of the 
Oberland. Directly beneath are 
the lakes of Thun and Brienz, the 
town of Thun, and the villages of 
Brienz and Interlaken.] 

Passengers bound to the Ober- 
land need not alight at Thun, 

Kp. Switz. 



but are carried on to the steamer 
at 

Scherzligen Stat on the lake 1 m. 
side. Passengers walk direct 
from the rly. carr. to the deck 
of the steamer — no shelter in 
rain. 



LAKE OF THTO. 

(AT) and (S.) refer to the N. raid S. 
sides of the lake. 

Lake of Thun, 10 m. long. 

1837 The steamboat starts 
from the middle of the town, takes 
in passengers at a quay below H. 
Bellevue, and again at Scherz- 
ligen Stat. The banks near Thun 
are occupied by villas and gardens. 
Bliimlis Alp is seen 1. of the 
Niesen, and during the voyage all 
the other mtns. of the Oberland 
come into view. 

(N.) Gberhofen, a castle newly 
restored, property of the Pour- 
tales family. The N. shore be- 
comes precipitous ; the S. is 
more varied. The Niesen, witlv 
its inn 011 the summit, and the 
Stockhorn, both pyramidal masses, 
stand on either side of the en- 
trance to the Simmenthal. The 
steamer crosses S. the lake to 

(S.) Spiez, a small village on a 
projecting tongue of land, with an 
ancient castle. [To Frutigen for 
the Gemmi, or for ascent of 
Niesen. A char or two usually 
awaits the steamer. A post carr., 
3 places, to Frutigen in the aft. 
Spietzwyler (neat Inn).'] Eecross- 
ing the lake to its N. side, 

(N.) Nase promontory. View of 
the Eigher and Monch, and of 
the Jungfrau to their rt. 

(JV.) Merlin gen. [Justis Thai: 
2 hrs. walk up it is the Schaflock 
Cave, 60 ft. long, with a well at 



99 



Bte. 24 . — INTEBLAKEN. 



100 



its end filled with ice. Take 
lights to see it. These ice-caves 
are not uncommon. Cold air 
being heavier than warm, depths 
that do not admit of ventilation 
necessarily become receptacles of 
the coldest air : it subsides, and 
cannot be dislodged.] Further on 
the 

(N.) Gave of St. Beatus, in cliff, 
a scene of a monkish miraculous 
legend. 

(JV.) Neuhaus. — Here the 
steamer stops. 

Cabs and omnibuses in throngs. I fr. 
each person to Interlaken ; char to 
Grindehvald, 3 hrs., 12 fr. A booking- 
office to book anywhere, by rail, diligence, 
or steamer. 

{Thun to Neuliaus by land. — It 
is a pleasant walk from Thun 
to Neuhaus, along the N. of the 
lake. After Merlingen the path 
rises high, and is easily missed in 
the woods.] 

TO INTEBLAKEN. 

The road from Neuhaus to Un- 
terseen or Interlaken (which are 
virtually one place) is a dusty 
highway, between poplars, of 2 m. 

"Outers sen is the first reached. 
It is the more industrial part of 
the straggling town, and extends 
to the river Aar. Crossing this, we 
come to 

2m. Interlaken — {Inns: H. des 
Alps, hotel and pension; H. 
Belvedere ; H. Victoria, good ; 
H. Jungfraublick, on a height, 
noble view ; H. Ititschard ; H. 
Jmigfrau ; Schweitzer Hof; H. 
dTnterlaken; *H. de la Jung- 
frau, rebuilt, kept by Seiler, and 
very good in all respects) — a 
clean village of large inns and 
pensions among trees, in the heart 



of .the grandest scenery. It is 
the crowded resort of well- 
dressed saunterers, and has no 
doubt abundant attractions for 
that large class. Endless walks 
and rides, boating parties on both 
lakes, picnics and balls, would, 
in the society of friends who like 
such things, cause a season to pass 
delightfully. More eager spirits 
would be off to the mountains, 
and prefer a robuster life. 

Mountain-ponies may be hired at Inter- 
laken at 11 fr. a-day, bonnemain included, 
tor one pony, or 10 fr. each when several 
are taken. Guides abound, and are 
paid by tariff, at the rate of 6 frs. per 
diem, but expect 1 fr. bonnemain. In- 
stances of gross misconduct are very rare ; 
but there is no remedy except an appeal 
to a magistrate, who usually seems to 
consider the tourist fair game. 

English Ch. in the old convent 
ch. — Physician,!)!. Maui : speaks 
English, and has an English Dis- 
pensary. He has a goat's whey 
establishment. 

Excursions. — a. The Harder, a 
hill with wooded and grassy 
slopes, and paths that look easy, 
but fatal accidents have oc- 
curred here. — b. The Rug-en on 
the Jungfraublick. — c. Lauter- 
brunnen Valley. — d. Grindel- 
icald. — e. Schynige (or Scihenige 
= glistening) Platte (Kte. 25), one 
of the finest view-points for Ber- 
nese Alps, 6000 ft. ; ascent in 
\ hr. to Gsteig in carriage, thence 
3 hrs. to top (Inn, Alpen-rose, 
fair), bridle-path (horse 15 fr.) ; 
view commanding both Lauter- 
brunnen and Grindelwald valleys, 
not inferior to that from the 
Faulhom. — /. By the carriage- 
road to Beatenberg, overlooking 
the lake of Thun ; thence walk to 
the top of the Gugengrat, and you 
will be rewarded with a view 
over the Bernese Alps, one of the 
grandest in Switzerland. 



101 Rte. 25 . — INTEBLAKEN 



to LA TJTEBBB UNNEN. 102' 



Rte. 25.— INTERLAKEN to 
LAUTERBRUNNEN, MTJR- 
REN, GRINDELWALD, REI- 
CHENBACH, and LAKE of 
BRIENZ. 

Interlalcen to Lauterhrunnen. 

2 hrs.' walk — 1| hr.'s drive. Carriage 
there and back, with a halt of 2 hrs., one 
horse, 8 fr. ; two horses, 15 fr. 

From Interlaken through 
orchards. 

Gsteig, the parish ch. of the 
entire vail ey. [Ascent of Schienige 
Platte, horse-road from signpost, 
3 hrs. See Kte. 24.] Road passes 
a meadow, on which great wrest- 
ling matches are held (one of 
which was described by Madame 
de Stael). 

Castle of Unspunnen, it., on a 
height — castle of Lord Byron's 
Manfred. Through villages where 
there is much goitre, to the 

2 m. Gorge of the Lutschine R., up 

which the road runs, shut in on 
rt. by the Rothenfluh and preci- 
pices of the Isenfluh, Bosestein, 
where- a Baron of Rothenfluh 
slew his brother. 

2 m, Zweilutschinen Bridge and 
hamlet, named from the 2 streams 
(White and Black) which here 
unite. [Carriage-road to Grin- 
delwald, across the bridge and 
up the 1. branch, or the Black 
Liitschine.] Our rte. continues 
up the main valley, that of 
the White Liitschine, or of Lauter- 
brunnen. 

Valley of Lauterhrunnen is re- 
markable for its depth, its con- 
tracted width, and for the preci- 



pices of limestone which enclose 
it like walls. Its name means 
"nothing but fountains;" from 
the number of streamlets falling 
from the brows of the cliffs, 
looking like so many pendulous 
white threads. 

rt. Hunnenflue, a colossal cliff, 
whose strata are singularly con- 
torted. A path is being made up 
to trie summit, where an inn is 
to be built. The Jungfrau now 
comes into sight ; and soon after, 

Lauterbnmnen. — ( Lnn : Capri- 3 
corn, rather dear ; H. Staubbach, 
less expensive; horses are kept 
here.) — This scattered vil. (1350 
Inhab., 2450 ft.) is so sunk between 
precipices, that, in summer, the 
sun does not appear till 7 o'clock, 
and in winter not before 12. About 
30 shoots of water dangle from 
the edge of the ramparts which 
form the sides of the valley; the 
greatest is the Staubbach, J m. 
from the inn. It is one of the 
loftiest falls in Europe (800 or 
900 ft.) ; and from this cause, and 
from its small body of water, it is 
shivered into spray, like dust, long 
before it reaches the bottom — ■ 
whence its name, the " Dust- 
stream." When very full it 
shoots out from the rock, and is 
bent by the wind into flickering 
undulations, Byron has compared 
it to 

(i The pale courser's tail, 
The giant steed to be bestrode by Death* 
As told in the Apocalypse." Manfred. 

The Iris plays on the Staubbach 
before noon. In winter a vast 
pyramid of ice is formed by the 
drippings from above, growing 
upwards in the manner of a 
stalagmite, until the colossal 
icicle reaches nearly halfway up 
the precipice. 

e 2 



103 



Ete. 25. — LA UTEBBB UNNEN to MUBBEN. 



104: 



Lauterbrunnen to Milrren (6 j to 8 
hrs. there and back), and Ascent 
of Schilthom Mtn. 

At a signpost 200 yards beyond 
Lauterbrunnen a good horse -path 
ascends rt. It crosses the Staub- 
bach above the falls, and reaches 

2 J hrs. Miirren, a highland village 
(Inn : H. du Silberhorn — agree 
beforehand about prices). View of 
the Black Monch and Oberland 
chain very fine, but it is better 
from a saw-mill J hr. short of 
the Inn, and better still from the 
hill-side \ hr. above Miirren 
(Allmendhiibel). 

Ascent of the *Schilthorn (9799 
ft.), by an excellent bridle-path 
for 2 hrs. ; thence 1 J hr. on foot. 
Guide should be taken. The 
last part is over a snow-patch : 
many ladies ascend it. The sum- 
mit is proverbial for its warmth 
in fine summer weather, consi- 
dering its height. Take provisions, 
and allow plenty of time to en- 
joy the magnificent panorama. 
A young English lady, Mrs. 
Arbuthnot, on her marriage tour, 
was struck dead by lightning 
here, June 1865. Mountaineers 
may descend into the Seefinen- 
Thal (Ete. 36), and so to the 
upper valley of Lauterbrunnen. 

Upper Valley of Lauterhrunnen 
and Eall of the Sclimadribach, 

Leaving Lauterhrunnen, the 
road continues nearly on a level, 
beneath the vast crags of the 
Schwartz Monch, while many 
cascades of the Staubbaeh cha- 
racter leap from the crags. The 
cascade of the Trummelbach, issu- 
ing 1. from the fissure, rather than 
ravine, which separates the Jung- 
frau from the Wengern Alp, may 



be seen by the way. [A path leads 
along the side of the Triimeleten- 
thal, high above its scarcely acces- 
sible base, through forest, to the 
Wengern Alp. Take a guide.] It 
is a char-road to 

Stechelberg. Thence by a 1 hr. 
briclle-path to 

Trachsel Lauinen, opposite I hr. 
which will be seen the remains of 
an avalanche, which annually 
spreads its ruins over hundreds 
of acres. Up a steep ascent to a 
chalet near the foot of the 

Lower Fall of Sclimadribach. 1 hr. 

Thence a sharp ascent to foot of 

Upper fall of the Schmadri- } hr. 
bach. This torrent is a magnifi- 
cent body of water, which, issuing 
from the glacier, throws itself 
immediately over a precipice, and 
again makes 2 more leaps before 
reaching the valley. Few cata- 
racts surpass it High above are 
the siunmits of the chain, which 
continue in an unbroken line of ice 
to the Gemmi. If the path be 
further followed, it leads, f hr., to 
pasturages immediately under the 
Breithorn glacier. View. The 
Steinberg chalets (Rte. 35) may be 
easily reached. 

{Steinberg Chalets to Murren is 
a pleasant footpath (? bridle-path) 
through woods. It passes an old 
silver-mine, and leads near the 
Fall of the Sefinen."} 

Lauterbrunnen to Grindelwald, — 
a. By the carriage-road. b. By 
the Wengern Alp. 

Both Lauterbrunnen and Grin- 
delwald may be visited in 1 rather 
long day from Interlaken, return- 
ing in the evening. 

A char may be taken at Interlaken, 
and the saddle-horses may be used to 
draw the char, saddles being taken with 



105 



Rte. 2 5 . — WENGERN ALP. 



106 




it. One horse, 20 fir. ; two horses, 40 fr. 
for this expedition. 

a. Carr.-road to Grindelwald, 
2 hrs., is exceedingly beautiful ; 
the valley up which it leads has 
been compared to that of Simla 
in the Himalayas. On nearing 
Grindelwald, note the white peak 
of the Silberhorn (? Wetterhorn) 
rising through the trees. 

Leaving Basle in the morning, it is 
possible to sleep at Grindelwald in the 
evening, taking a char from Neuhaus. 

b. Bridle-path from Lauterbrun- 
nen to Grindelwald, over the 

Wengern Alp, or Lesser Sclieideck, 

LAUTERBRUNNEN to Hrs. 

H. de la Jungfrau 2 

Lesser Scheideck and H. Bellevue f 
Grindelwald 2^ 

5i 

Horses take 5 hrs.; 2 more should be 
allowed for enjoyment of scenery. It is 
a rough path, but is traversed by crowds 
of both sexes, on foot, on horseback, or in 
chaises a porteurs. Those who are at all 
able to walk need take a horse to the 
summit only, for which one day is 
charged ; for the whole journey, 1^ day. 

Independently of the glorious 
view of the Jungfrau, and other 
giants of the Bernese chain, it is 
from the Wengern Alp that ava- 



lanches are seen and heard in 
greatest perfection. 

From Lauterbrunnen the bridle- 
path turns off at the cliapel 
nearly opposite the Staubbach, 
and after crossing the river as- 
cends steep zigzags, which lead 
out of the valley of Lauterbrun- 
nen, in order to surmount the 
ridge separating it from that of 
Grindelwald. After a toilsome 
ascent, exposed to the sun after 
the early forenoon, and indeed 
very hot after 7 J a.m., and passing 
a scattered hamlet, it reaches a 

Gentler slope of meadow. The 1 hr. 
path now winds rt. round the 
shoulder of the hill, and then 
crosses meadows, advancing to- 
wards the Jungfrau, which rises 
in front, with its vast expanse of 
snow and glacier. The mass of 
the mountain is white with per- 
petual snow of virgin purity, 
which breaks off abruptly at the 
edge of a black precipice, forming 
one s^de of the narrow and deep 
Trumleten valley, which se- 
parates the Jungfrau from the 
Wengern Alp. 

H. de la Jungfrau, a veryl hr. 
tolerable Inn, 20 beds (5350 ft.), 
directly faces the Jungfrau, From 



107 Ete. 25. — WENGEBN ALP— AVALANCHES. 108 



this point the mountain is best 
seen, as well as the avalanches 
descending from it. 

Avalanches. — The precipice be- 
fore alluded to, which flanks the 
base of the mountain, is chan- 
nelled with gullies, down which 
the avalanches descend. They 
are most numerous a little after 
noon. The attention is first 
arrested by a distant roar, not 
unlike thunder, and in half a 
minute a gush of white powder, 
resembling a small cataract, issues 
out of one of the upper gullies ; it 
then sinks into a low fissure, and is 
lost only to reappear at a lower 
stage some hundred feet below; 
soon after another roar, and a 
fresh gush from a lower gully, 
till the mass of ice, reaching the 
lowest step, is precipitated into 
the gulf below. It is difficult, at 
first, to believe that these thun- 
ders arise from so slight a cause 
in appearance. The spectator 
must bear in mind that at each 
discharge whole tons of ice are 
hurled down the mountain. Dur- 
ing the early part of the summer 
three or four such discharges may 
be seen in an hour ; in cold wea- 
ther they are less numerous ; in 
the autumn scarcely any occur. 
The avalanches finally descend 
into the valley of Triimeleten, the 
deep and uninhabited ravine di- 
viding the Jungfrau from the 
Wengern Alp; and, on melting, 
send forth the Triimmelbach, 
which falls into the Lutschine, a 
little above Lauterbrunnen. A 
part of Lord Byron's 4 Manfred ' 
was either written or mentally 
composed on the Wengern Alp. 

Near Vieiv of the Avalanches. — 
Mr. F. Galton drew attention in 
1863 to the view by the side of : 
the gully immediatelv facing the I : 



; Jungfrau hotel, to which the 
s avalanches from the Jungfrau 
converge. He found it was to be 
reached quite easily and safely by 
descending into the Triimeleten 
valley, crossing the stream by a 
bridge, traversing a narrow band 
of avalanche snow fallen from the 
Eiger, and then mounting to the 
gully. The path is perfectly 
simple and easy, save up 2 low 
terraces of steep rock, where the 
present absence of foot-hold (steps 
might easily be quarried) necessi- 
tates the assistance of a guide and 
rope. On arriving at the side of 
the gully a near view of the ava- 
lanches can be enjoyed as safely 
as that of a waterfall. First a 
prodigious roar is heard over 
head, then a storm of ice-balls 
tears through the gully and dashes 
forth like a cataract upon a long 
slope of ice and snow. Down this 
they slide swiftly with a hissing 
noise into the depths of the valley. 
Gushes of water accompany each 
discharge. The ice cliffs that 
supply the avalanches tumble 
2000 ft. before they reach the 
head of the gully, which itself is 
1000 ft. high ; consequently the 
fragments of ice have time to 
be ground into perfect balls. 
They are usually 1 ft. in diameter, 
rarely more than 2 ft. They form 
a narrow band of ice and snow, 
extending nearly 2000 ft. in addi- 
tional descent, from the foot of the 
gully to the almost inaccessible 
bottom of the lower valley. 

• Leaving the Jungfrau Hotel the 
track is more level. 

lesser Scheideck pass, 6690! hr. 
ft. {Inn: H. Belle vue, small but 
comfortable). [N. B. * * A de- 
tour to the rt. of j an hour's walk 
from the pathway, following the 
ridge which connects the Wen- 



109 



Bte. 2 5 —GB IN DEL W ALU , 



110 



gem Scheicleck with the Eigher, 
unfolds a new view which will 
well repay the trouble. Pass below 
the flagstaff and follow the con- 
tour of the numerous little ra- 
vines, slightly ascending all the 
way. Arriving at the edge of 
the cliff, the whole anatomy of 
the bases of the Oberland chain 
bursts suddenly into sight, and 
the spectator is astonished to find 
how vast an amount of cliff and 
snow had lain concealed and un- 
suspected as he travelled along 
the mule-track. Instead of re- 
turning to the Bellevue you may 
strike the path to Grindelwalcl 
lower down.] 

[Lauberhorn Mtn. may be easily 
reached in i J hi*, from this or the 
H. de la Jungfrau. View more 
extensive than from the road.] 

Descent. Milk, strawberries, 
and beggars, are met at frequent 
intervals along the wayside. The 
path is steep. 

The Wetterhorn is seen in front, 
and on the 1. the Faulhorn, sur- 
mounted by its inn. On the rt., 
low down, appears the white 
Lower Glacier of Grindelwald, 
issuing out of a gorge, on a level 
with the habitations of the valley. 

2|hrs. Grindelwald. — Inns: Bar 
(Bear) at the W. of the village ; 
Adler (Eagle) at the E. end ; H. 
Eigher; H. du Glacier. This scat- 
tered village (3250 ft.) consists 
of picturesque wooden cottages. 
Its climate is cold and unstable. 
6000 head of cattle are fed on the 
neighbouring pastures. Most of 
the children are beggars, for the 
influx of strangers has exercised an 
injurious influence. The valley 
has not been inhabited above 400 
years, but the peasants assert that 
the climate becomes gradually 



worse. There were in former days 
several paths into the Valais which 
are now impassable. 

Guides. — Peter Bohren, facile 
princeps from his many ascents ; 
Christen Almen, Ch. and Pierre 
Michel, Jean Baumann, Ulrich 
Kaufmann. 

Grindelwald owes its celebrity 
to the grandeur of the mountains 
which surround it, and to its two 
Glaciers. 

Lower Glacier. 

[The Upper Glacier is on the 
road to Keichenbach (col. 112).] 
The Lower Glacier, also called 
the smaller, although four times 
as large as the upper one, forces 
its way out between the Eigher 
and Mettenberg, to a level only 
3200 ft. above that of the sea. It 
is perhaps the most interesting in 
Switzerland in proportion to the 
difficulty of access. On it may 
be seen to perfection ice pinnacles 
caused by the rupture of the 
glacier when it reaches the de- 
clivity, curved crevasses crossing 
from side to side. Above this 
the smooth upper plateau of the 
Eismeer, traversed by streams 
which eventually force their way 
into a Moulin, with the rush and 
roar of cataracts. 

Foot of Loiver Glacier.— Here 
is a grotto partly natural, partly 
hewn in the ice, I hr. from the 
inn, J fr. admission, and on ac- 
count of the blue flight trans- 
mitted through it deserves a 
visit. The foot of the glacier 
is otherwise as grimy and un- 
attractive as such places usually 
are. An extensive quarrying of 
ice goes on whenever the tourist 
season is slack, to supply the 
markets of France and Switzer- 
land with ice. Hundreds of 
peasants arc then engaged in 



Ill Bte. 25. — GBINDELWALD 



GLACIER— FAULHOBN. 112 



hewing cubes of ice from the 
glacier, which, they wheel in bar- 
rows to a store on the Lauter- 
brunnen road ; whence it is carted 
to JSTeuhaus, embarked for Thun, 
and thence forwarded direct by rly T . 

Ascent of Lower Glacier. — A 
path descends from the ch. and 
mounts the opposite side of the 
valley 1. of the glacier, and passes 
under the cliffs of the Mettenberg, 
whence the Martinslocli, a small 
hole in the crest of the Eigher, is 
seen. It leads (a horse can be 
taken J way, and that part the 
steepest) to 

2 hrs. Zaseriberg chalet (bread, milk, 
and wine). Thence along a more 
level track 

i hr. Ladder of wooden stairs, lead- 
ing down to the ice. It is long, 

' rickety, and rather formidable- 
looking, and descends round the 
shoulder of an ice-worn precipice. 
It is constantly traversed. The 
shrinking of the ice in recent 
years has made the ladder a 
necessity. Once on the ice, the 
traveller can walk pleasantly for 
horns (with, of course, precau- 
tions). The view becomes very 
little inferior to that from the 
Jardin. A field of ice is under 
foot, enormous glaciers of great 
purity feed it, and noble cliffs 
and snow mtns. form an amphi- 
theatre around. It is a scene to 
which the whole of a summer's 
day might properly be assigned. 
There is a large moulin to be 
seen. Travellers usually cross to 
the 

1J hr. Stiereck pastures, where goats 
are left unattended. (Thus far 
the route is the beginning of the 
Strahleck pass — Ete. 1 7 a.) 

[Ascent of the Mettenberg from 
this glacier, 3 hrs. Take a good 



guide, such as Christian Aylmer. 
The view is throughout grand, 
and improves as you ascend. It 
becomes magnificent from an emi- 
nence J hr. below the top ; where 
the green valley of Grindelwald 
and the lake of Thun make a 
charming contrast to the glare 
of ice on the other side. The view 
is said to be yet far superior from 
the summit.] 

Ascent of the Faulhorn. 
The Faulhorn (8812 ft.) di- 
vides Grindelwald from the lake 
of Brienz, and commands an ex- 
cellent near view of the Bernese 
Alps. (See diagram.) 

Horse-path 5 lirs. from Grindelwald; 
3 hrs. from the great Scheideck. Ladies 
who do not ride may be carried in 
'■' chaises a porteurs." By foot, and pro- 
bably by horsepath, from the Schynige 
Platte in 3 hrs. Foot-path 5 hrs. from 
Giessbach, but ill marked, and requires 
a guide. Horse from Grindelwald or 
Rosenlaui, 15 fr. 

Inn on the summit, tolerable 
bedrooms, 24 to 30 beds. As much 
as 9 or 10 frs. have been asked 
for a bed here ! In the height of 
summer you must secure beds 
beforehand, or be early on the 
top. 

From Grindelwald the path 
leads over the Bach Alp, by the 
side of a small lake, 1000 ft. below 
the summit. 

Grindelwald to Beichenbach or 
Meiringen, by the Great Schei- 
deck. 

GRINDELWALD to Hours. 

Scheideck 3 

Rosenlaui 2 

lleichenbach 2$ 

Upper Glacier is reached by a 
slight detour rt. from the direct 
road. [The ice is unusually pure 
and pleasant to walk on from its 
very foot,] 



115 Bte. 25.— GREAT S CHEIDECK — BEICHENBA CH. 116 



During the whole ascent the 
Wetterliorn (Peak of Tempests) 
overhangs the path, rising in one 
vast precipice of alpine limestone. 
Upon the slope in front a man 
usually stations himself to blow 
the alpine horn, a rude, tube of 
wood 6 or 8 ft. long. A few 
seconds after the horn has ceased, 
its few and simple notes are 
caught up by the echoes, and 
returned to the ear refined and 
softened, yet distinct, as it were 
an aerial concert among the crags. 

3hrs. Great Seheideck pass, 6480 
ft. (Inn: Steinbock, tolerable). 
Horses for Faulhorn 8 fr. View 
towards Grindelwald ; its green 
pastures contrast with the bare 
wall of the Wetterliorn. Beyond, 
to the 1., the sharp crest of the 
Eigher resembles the upturned 
edge of a hatchet. Vieiv towards 
Bosenlaui is not so remarkable. 
Two small glaciers are suspended 
on shelfs of the range connect- 
ing the Wetterliorn and Wellborn ; 
further on, between the Wellborn 
and Engel-horner (angels' peaks), 
the Glacier of Bosenlaui lies em- 
bedded. 

Descent partly through a wood 
of firs, to 

ljhr. Baths of Rosenlaui, Inn, Bar, 
a pleasant halting-place, prettily 
situated near a mineral spring like 
that of Harrogate. 

Glacier of Bosenlaui, 20 min. 
from inn, is celebrated for the 
purity of its surface and the 
clear azure of its icebergs. A 
steep path 1. of the glacier leads in 
i hr. to a cliff which projects into 
the icy sea. View. — The torrent 
from this glacier passes through a 
chasm, in which, from the frail 
bridge thrown across it, the waters 
may be seen boiling some 200 ft. 
frelow. 



The path to Meyringen runs by 
the side of this stream, first cross- 
ing a charming little plain, like 
an English lawn dotted with cha- 
lets. The View up the valley 
from this point is a favourite sub- 
ject for artists. The Wetterhom, 
the Wellborn, and the craggy- 
peaks called Engelhorner, form a 
mountain group unsurpassed for 
picturesqueness. 

Below this the valley contracts ; 
numerous waterfalls dangle from 
its sides : one of them, from its 
height and tenuity, is called the 
Ropefall (Seilbach) ; and now a 
bird's-eye view opens out into the 
wide vale of Hasli, or Meyringen. 

The latter part of the descent is 
steep, and paved with slippery 
blocks of stone. Travellers usually 
descend on foot. The stream of 
the Reichenbach performs this de- 
scent of 2000 ft. in a succession of 
leaps, the longest of which are the 
celebrated 

Palls of Reichenbach. — The If hr. 

upper fall is a short distance 1. of 
the road, near the village Zwirghi. 
A small fee is exacted for the 
liberty to cross the meadow be- 
tween it and the road, and a hut 
called Belvedere is built beside it. 
But it is best seen froni a rocky 
headland shooting out in front of 
the bare amphitheatre of cliffs over 
which the cataract dashes, and 
just above the torrent, hurrying 
downwards after its fall. A little 
lower is another but inferior fall ; 
and by a third, still lower, the 
stream gains the level of the val- 
ley. At times these falls are 
illuminated at night, like the 
Giessbach. The lowest fall is very 
near to the 

Reichenbach Hotel, comfort- f hr. 
able when not overcrowded, 40 
beds, baths, H, des Alpes, very 



117 



Bte. 25.— ME YBINGEN—BBIENZ. 



118 



comfortable. Horses and chars. 
Oarr.-road, and bridge over the 
Aar, to 

J hr. Meyringen — (Inns : Sanvage, 
best — ask for the fish called 
" Lotte ;" — Couronne : ■ — none of 
them so pleasant as the H. 
at Beichenbach) — on the rt. 
bank of the Aar, the chief place 
in the vale of Hasli, an ex- 
cellent specimen of a Swiss vil- 
lage (2540 Prot. Inhab.). The 
picturesqueness of its situation is 
much praised ; yet the flat plain, 
3 m. broad, is half marsh and 
half dry gravel. It is exposed to 
the violence of the neighbouring 
torrents. A stone dyke, 1000 ft. 
long and 8 wide, was constructed ; 
but its protection has not been 
altogether effectual. 

Good Guides here ; horses, cars. 

The men of the valley of Hasli 
are celebrated for their athletic 
forms; the women being prettier, 
or rather less plain, than those of 
most other Swiss valleys. 

At Meyringen converge the 
carr.-roads — a, from Brienz ; 0, from 
Lucerne by the Bninig(Bte. 19) ; 
and the Bridle-paths (c) from the 
Grimsel (Ete. 26); the Falls of 
Handeck are 5 J hrs. walk on the 
way thither ; d, the Joch Pass to 
Engelberg (Bte. 3 2) ; e, the Susten 
to Wasen on the St. Gotthard; 
and the Gt. Scheideck to Bosen- 
laui and Grindelwald. 

English Church. — Service on 
Sundays, 11 and 3. The clergy- 
man has made himself respon- 
sible for the expense of fitting 
up the ch., and solicits sub- 
scriptions. 

Fall of the Alpbach ; a triple 
iris is formed in its spray at 9 a.m. 
The inner iris forms a complete 
circle, and the outer ones are more 
or less complete as the water in 



the falls is abundant or not. The 
spot whence it is visible is within 
the spray from the cataract, so that 
those who would enjoy it must 
prepare for a wetting, 

Meyringen to Interlalcen, by Brienz 
and the Giessbach Falls. 

MEYRINGEN to Miles. 
Brienz (carr. road) ... 7 
Interlaken (steamer) . . . 3 

Char 6 fr. to Brienz, i£ hr. drive, ex- 
cellent road. Diligence twice a-clay. 

Past numerous cascades leaping 
down the rock : skirt lake to 

Brienz — Inns : l'Ours, good, 7 
near the landing-place; Weisses 
Kreutz (Croix Blanche), clean, at 
Tracht (both rather clear) ; the 
Bellevue, at Kienholz, about a 
mile short of Brienz. Ask for 
the Lotte, a fish of the lake (gadus 
mustela). 

Diligence and carriages over the Brilnig 
Pass to Alpnach, for Lucerne. lite. 19. 

Brienz is a small village, on a 
narrow ledge at the N.E. end of the 
Lake of Brienz, at the foot of the 
mountains, remarkable only for its 
beautiful situation, and its vicinity 
to the Giessbach Fall. It is a 
good place for buying carved wood- 
ware. 6 co persons are employed 
in this trade here. [Ascent of 
Bothhorn,$ hrs. bridle-path. View 
of Snow Mtns. nearly as fine as 
from Faulhorn, that of the lower 
country is finer. Mt. Pilatus is 
conspicuous. Descent 2 J hrs. 

Lake of Brienz (1853 ft.) is 
8 m. long ; near the mouth of the 
Giessbach, 500 ft. deep, but in 
the deepest part 2100 ft.? Its 
surface is 30 ft. higher than the 
lake of Thun. 

Brienz to Interlaken. Good 
carriage-road 12 m. along the N, 
shore of the lake. 



GBIMSEL and FUBCA. 120 



Rte. 26. — PASSES of the 
GRIMSEL and FTJRCA—MEY- 
RINGEN or EEICHENBACH 
to HOSPENTHAL. 

MEYEINGEN or REICHENBACH 



to Hrs/ 

Imliof i£ 

Handeck, Falls of the Aar . . 45 

Grimsel 2 

Ehone Glacier 2i 

Hospenthal 65 



This is an important line of 
communication to the tourist. It 
is striking in itself, and it passes 
the falls of Handeck and the Gla- 
cier of the Ehone. Many and 
most interesting excursions di- 
verge from it. Car. road to Imhof, 
thence bridle-path. Carriage-road 
over the Furca. 



A small Steamer runs 3 times daily, 
in 1 nr., between Brienz and Interlaken, 
touching at the Giessbach every trip, but 
not stopping except to let out and take in 
passengers. 

Falls of Giessbach {Inn, 100 
beds, close to the falls, and 1000 ft. 
above the lake. It affords the best 
quarters in the Bernese Oberland). 
From the landing-place a very 
steep and hot, but excellent road, 
leads in 20 min. to the Hotel and 
to the foot of the Falls. They are 
a succession of cascades, leaping 
through a rich forest of fir. They 
form one of the prettiest of water- 
falls : there is nothing wild about 
them, but the immediate contact 
of turfy knolls and dark woods 
has the effect of a park scene. It 
is possible to pass behind the third 
fall by means of a gallery; the 
effect of the landscape seen athwart 
this curtain of water is singular. 
Paths have been cut through the 
woods to the best points of view ; 
and the Falls are lighted up with 
Bengal lights on several nights in 
each week. The effect is very 
beautiful. The Giessbach was 
first made accessible by a school- 
master named Kehri, 1848. It is 
now visited by . at least 20,000 
persons in a year. Good carved 
wood may be purchased at the 
Giessbach. Fine view from the 
rocks called Bauft, 400 feet above 
the hotel, over lake and vale of 
Hasli. [Path from the Giessbach 
to the top of the Faulhorn, 5 hrs. ; 
guide is required.] 



PASS OF THE GBIMSEL, 

4 

Meyringen, or Beichenbach. 
Kte. 25. 

Kirchet, a great limestone-bar- 
rier that dams the valley. It is 
cleft from top to bottom by a singu- 
larly narrow rent, through which 
the Aar forces its way. It is 
covered with erratic blocks of 
granite. A post points to 

[Finster-Aar Schluclit, J hi\ de- 
tour on foot. A remarkable fis- 
sure that extends down to the 
Aar from the summit of the Kir- 
chet. A river must have once 
issued through it. The way down 
is steep.] 

Descent in zigzags ; a short 
cut on foot. The char-road ends 
and bridle-path begins at 

Imhof {Inn, Hotel Im Hof, 1 Jhr. 

good— good wine), in a green, 
basin-shaped depression, evidently 
once the bed of a lake, 



121 Me. 26—GBIMSEL PASS— HANDECK. 122 



Many routes diverge, viz. : — 
Susten bridle-pass to Wasen, on the 

St. Gothard, n hrs. 
Joch bridle-pass to Engelberg, 10 hrs. 

IUe. 33. 

Foot excursion up Urbach Thai to 
Gauli Glacier. 

Glacier expedition over Gauli Glacier to 
Grindelwald (long and difficult). 

Path crosses to 1. bank of Aar. 

2J hrs. Guttannen ( Inns : Hirsch ; 
Bar, tolerable) ; a small and lonely 
village. 

1. io min. short of Handeck, a 
path 1. leads to a spot where the 
Falls are seen from below. 

2 hrs. Handeck (Inn, good) ; stop 
here if it be late, as the Hos- 
pice in summer is often fall. The 
inn is close to the famous 

Falls of the Aar (200 ft. in 
height), a cataract unequalled in 
Switzerland for the combination of 
beauty, mass, and force. A second 
stream, the Erlenbach, takes from 
the rt. precisely the same leap, 
and mingles halfway with the 
column of the Aar. Iris between 
10 and 1 o'clock. 

Upper limit of trees ; the path 
crosses 

Jhr. Bbse Seite, a granite rock, 
J m. broad, polished and striated 
by ancient glacier action. Sterile 
scenery. 

Raterisboden, 2 wretched cha- 
lets, the only habitations be- 
tween Handeck and Hospice, in a 
basin-shaped depression ; marshy 
bottom and scanty grass. The 
path quits the Aar, turns rt., and 
in 15 min. reaches 

IJhr. Grimsel Hospice; 50 beds, 
in cells divided by thin parti- 
tions ; crowded in summer ; rough 
accommodation, but hotel charges. 
Situated in a most dreary and 
barren hollow, with a black tarn 
below it, and a landscape worthy 



of Spitzbergen. It was originally 
a conventual establishment. After 
the Keformation it was supported 
by the neighbouring communes, 
to shelter those who travel 
from necessity, and to afford a 
gratuitous aid to the poor. It 
is now daily occupied in summer 
by travellers for pleasure, some- 
times to the number of 200 at 
once. It is often so full that it is 
impossible to secure single-bedded 
rooms. It is a massy building, 
designed to resist a weight of 
snow, and with few windows to 
admit the cold. An innkeeper 
rents it from March to November. 
Two servants pass the winter in 
the house ; for even then the hos- 
pice is resorted to by traders from 
Hasli and the Valais, who ex- 
change the cheese of the one val- 
ley for the wine and spirits of the 
other. 

In 1799 fierce contests occurred 
around the Hospice for the pos- 
session of the Pass, between the 
Austrians who held it and the 
French under General Gudin. 
The French were eventually suc- 
cessful by the aid of a Swiss guide, 
who led a detachment round the 
flank of the Austrians by Rate- 
risboden and N'agelis Gfattli, 
and, driving them over the pass, 
poured across it into the valley of 
the Rhone. — See Swiss Handbook. 

Excursions. — 

a. Glaciers, &c. — The Source 
of the Aar lies in two enormous 
glaciers, the Ober and TJnter-Aar 
Gletsclier, to the W. of the Hos- 
pice. The TJnter-Aar Glacier, 
14 m. long and from 1 to 2 
broad, is the best worth visit- 
ing, and its lower end may be 
reached in ij hr. from the Hos- 
pice. It is remarkable for the 
evenness of its surface and the 



123 Bte. 2G.—GRIMSEL—AAR GLACIER— FURCA. 12i 



rareness of crevasses. Owing to 
its great dimensions, and the ease 
with which it may be traversed, 
the Unter-Aar Glacier has long 
attracted those who wished to 
study thoroughly the singular 
phenomena of glaciers. In 1827 
Hugi erected a rude hut on the 
glacier near the foot of the Absch- 
wung. In 1840 the remains of 
this hut were found by Agassiz 
to have advanced about 4600 ft. 
In the following year M. Agassiz 
and a party of scientific friends 
established themselves in an 
equally rude shelter, on the me- 
dial moraine of the glacier, which 
they styled the Hotel des Neu- 
chatelois. Here they continued 
during several successive seasons 
to carry on observations, which 
are recorded in the works of M. 
Agassiz. A more secure and con- 
venient dwelling was finally pro- 
vided by M. Dollfuss-Ausset of 
Mulhouse. It is a substantial 
hut on the 1. bank of the glacier, 
called the Pavilion. 

At about 7 in. from its lower 
end the glacier divides into two 
branches. The rt. branch (as- 
cending the glacier) is the Lauter- 
Aar Glacier; the 1. branch, the 
Finster-Aar Glacier. The two 
are separated by a steep rocky 
promontory called Im Abscjiwung, 
which forms the base of a huge 
ridge, whose other extremity is 
the Mettenberg, immediately 
above Grinclelwald. Its highest 
summit is the Schreckhorn. On 
the opposite or S. side of the 
Glacier is the still more imposing 
Finster-Aar Horn, the highest of 
the Bernese Alps. 

Ascent of the Little Sidclhorn, 
95 00 ft., 3 hrs. (Consult Dili's Pano- 
rama.) Follow the path to the 
Col of the Grimsel, leave the Tod- 
tensee on the 1. Then take path 



on rt. It is possible to descend 
from the summit of the Sidelhorn 
to the Ober-Aar glacier, and 
thence by very rough ground to 
the lower end of the Unter-Aar 
glacier. 

c and d. Strahleck and Ober- 
Aar-joch, see Rte. 27. 

Summit of Pass, 7500 ft. ;lhr. 
700 ft. above hospice. 

. Todten See (lake of the dead). 
An Inn has been built here. It 
is appropriately so called — partly 
from the dead sterility around, 
and partly from the bodies of 
those who have perished during 
the skirmishes of the French in- 
vasion having been thrown into it 
for burial. Here the path divides ; 
be cautious of noting the turn. 
[That to Obergestelen (Bte. 28) 
leaves lake on 1.] That to the 
Furka leaves lake on rt. ; thence 
a steep descent of 1500 ft. down 
the Mayenwald. Rhone glacier, 
1. in sight below. 

[A short cut on foot across the 
glacier to the Furka road.] 

Hotel du Glacier du Bhone, or! J hr. ' 
Mayenwald : really good inn, 
kept by Seiler of Zermatt, A 
warm spring for bathing. 

Above the Inn the Rhone i m. 
issues out at the foot of the 

Ehone Glacier, one of the 
grandest in Switzerland, fit cradle 
for so mighty a stream. It fills 
the head of the valley from side 
to side, and is piled up against 
the shoulder of the Gallenstock, 
whose tall peak overhangs it. 
The Rhone, at its source, in a 
cavern of ice, is 5750 ft. above 
the sea; at Brieg, 2302; at Sion, 
1630 ; at Lake of Geneva, 1230 ; 
at Fort de l'Ecluse, 1066. 

[ Waterfall reached by a track up 
the W. side, or rt. bank of the glacier. 
It rushes out from the glacier. 



125 Ete. 27.— FUBCA PASS—S TBAHLECK. 126 



and dashes without a break into 
a glacier cavern 150 ft. below, 
with clouds of freezing spray. 
After forming a passage for itself 
under the glacier, it issues from 
the cavern at its foot.] 

Carriage-road down the valley 
of the Khone to Obergestelen, 
Viesch, and Brieg, Kte. 28. 

The carriage - road over the 
Furca [(1865) is carried along 
the side of Rhone Glacier. Note 
its depth as revealed by its cre- 
vasses. 

The steepest part of the ascent 
is mastered by 7 wide sweeping 
zigzags, of gentle incline, through 
green pastures. 

If hr. Summit of the Furka, 8150 ft. 
(Furka-haus, good Inn, with 2.5 
beds.) The Furka is a "fork" 
between two peaks ; patches of 
snow usually lie there. * View of 
the Bernese Oberland, especially 
of the Finster Aarhorn, splendid. 
[Ascent of Furka horn, 1 hr.] 
[Ascent (a scramble) of the 
Gallenstock, 11,900 ft.] 

Descent, monotonous, bare, and 
. uninteresting — not a house by the 
way — is effected by another well- 
constructed series of serpentine 
windings, until the road reaches 

2 J hrs. Realp (Inn: H. des Alpes). 
Here the Capuchin monks have 
a small chapel and hospice, and 
receive travellers. 

4 miles of level road lead to 

1 J hr. Hospenthal, on the St. Got- 
thard (Rte. 34) (Inns: Meyer- 
hof, a large hotel, well- spoken of 
■ — carriages, saddle-horses, and 
guides ; Golden Lion, civil land- 
lord) ; or 2 J m. farther to 

Andermatt (lite, 34). 



Rte. 27.— PASSES from the 
GRIMSEL— STRAHLECK and 
OBERAARJOCH. 

Besides the mule-paths leading- 
over the Grimsel there are several 
passes of a higher order, suited 
only to mountaineers. The chief 
of these are the Strahleck and 
the Oberaarjoch. 

Strahleck Pass. Grindelwald to 
Grimsel. 

This is one of the most 
grand and striking in the Alps. 
The time depends on the state 
of the snow, and may vary 
from 13 to 16 hrs., allowing for a 
short halt at the summit. The 
hard day's work may be broken 
by sleeping at the Z'asenberg 
chalet, 2 easy hrs. from Grindel- 
wald. The ascent from the Grim- 
sel side is less considerable, and 
the views are on the whole finer. 
The traveller from this side may 
sleep at the Pavilion by the 
Aar Glacier. 

From Grindelwald by the Lower 
Glacier, as described Kte, 25 a, to 

Stiereck Chalet (unoccu-3 
pied). A few minutes beyond 
the pastures of the Stiereck, the 
mtns. close in upon the ice, and 
the path mounts till the mtns, 
again recede, and one continues 
on tolerably level ground. At 
the end of this it is necessary to 
get on the glacier for a few mi- 
nutes, then again to terra firma, 
to turn a projecting rock — a mat- 
ter of difficulty late in the season, 
when the glacier has subsided. 



127 Rte. 21.—AAE G-LA C IEB — OBEBAABJO CH. 



128 



Beyond this two different routes 
are taken by the guides accord- 
ing to the state of the ice. 

Ascent of Upper Glacier may 

be effected on either side, but the 
rt. bank [1. in ascending) is usu- 
ally preferred. Soon afterwards 
the glacier is again reached, and 
all path terminates. View of 
the Schreckhorn, which rises im- 
mediately 1. Continuing along 
the glacier (which is here with- 
out crevasses, but difficult to walk 
on, on account of its steep slope 
from the left), and passing below 
two lateral glaciers, which almost 
overhang, a 

Wail of Snow is reached, form- 
ing the end of the valley. Here 
turn 1., and, ascending the gla- 
cier a few hundred feet, reach a 
shady 

Ridge of Rocks, rising steeply 
at right angles to the former 
route. This is ascended for about 
hr. to a 

Platform of Snow, across which, 
after another short but steep as- 
cent of ^ hi-., to the 

Summit (10,500 it). It is the 
perfection of wild scenery. It 
lies in the centre of the highest 
group of the Oberland Alps, 
being on the ridge which con- 
nects the Schreckhorn with the 
Finster Aarhorn. 

Descent towards the Aar Gla- 
cier by the well-known 

Ice-wall of the Strahleck forms 
the principal difficulty of this 
expedition, but when proper pre- 
cautions are taken there is no 
real risk. Just below the steepest 
part a wide crevasse must be 
passed, but this is generally 
iDridged with snow ; the slope 
soon becomes less steep, and be- 



fore long the travellers may safely 
run or slide down to the neve of 
the Finster- Aar Glacier (Ete. 
26). From foot of the pass i§ 
hi*, to the 

Abschwung, where Professor 
Agassiz's hut was built. Thence 
2 hrs. on ice and 1 on rock to 

Hospice of the Grimsel Pte. 

26). 

. The demands of the guides at Grindel- 
wald for this pass should not be submitted 
to. On one occasion they asked 180 fr., 
and took 30 fr. 

Oheraarjocli — Grimsel to tlie 
uEggi-scTilwrn. 

This magnificent pass is a hard 
day's work, and the descent of 
the Yiescher glacier is difficult. 

From the Grimsel the route is 
the same as that of the Strahleck 
pass as far as 

Foot of Unteraar Gl. Here it 
ascends to the chalets at the foot 
of the Oberaar gl. This is easily 
traversed. 

Ascent is rather rapid, but pre- 
sents no difficulty worth men- 
tioning, oj hrs. to 

Summit [or Jocli , 

Descent of 2 hrs., when the 
glacier becomes impracticable, 
and it is necessary to scramble 
down some steep and dripping 
rocks, which form, in fact, the 
lower slopes of the Viescher- 
horner. Beware of descending 
too low at the foot of the glacier. 

Chalets of Stock. Xear these 
begins an ascent (of no difficulty) 
to reach the level of the 

Hotel on the ^ggischhern 
v Ete. 28}. (This is far preferable 
to a long and fatiguing descent 
in order to reach Viesch.) 



129 



Rte. 28. — GRIMSEL to BRIEG. 



130 



Rte. 28. — GRIMSEL or 
RHONE GLACIER to BRIEG, 
by OBERGESTELEN— the JEG- 
GISCHHORN. 

Carriage-road from Hospenthal on the 
St. Gotthard, over the Furka to Oberwald, 
since 1865. 

, GRIMSEL HOSPICE to 
Obergestelen ..... 2? hrs. 

Viesch 15I miles 

Brieg miles 

Grimsel Hospice (see Rte. 26; 

to 

lhr. Todten See. Leave this on 
the 1. over Hausegg Pass, unless 
you wish to see the glacier of 
the Khone, a detour of ij hr., 
bridle-path. 

Thence the road descends rt. 
bank of Rhone into Ober-Wallis, 
past 

li hr. Oberwald [whence a path di- 
verges over the col of the Geren- 
horn to the Nufenen, see below]. 
Diligence to Brieg. 

2 m. Obergestelen (Fr. Haut Cha- 
tillon), 4360 ft. (Inn: Oheval 
Blanc, clean and civil); on the 
Rhone, 8 m. from its source. It 
is the depot for the cheese trans- 
ported out of canton Berne into 
Italy, and is a place of some traffic, 
as it lies at the junction of the 
4 roads over the Grimsel, Furca, 
Nufenen, and Gries (Rte. 62). 

In 1720, 84 men were killed 
here by an avalanche, and lie 
buried in one grave in the 
churchyard. 

Descent of the Upper Valais is 
tame for 3 hrs. to the neighbour- 
hood of Viesch. The peak of 
the Weisshorn is, however, a 
noble object, and, though 40 m. 
off, seems to block up the valley. 
Looking backwards, the Gallen- 
stock appears in like grandeur. 

Kp. Sivitz. 



The Upper Valais (Ober-Wallis) 
is very populous, and numerous 
unimportant villages are passed 
in rapid succession. The natives 
of the Upper Valais are a distinct 
and apparently superior race to 
those of the Lower. The lan- 
guage is German. The Romans 
never penetrated into the higher 
part of the Rhone valley. 

* 

Ulrichen, opposite opening of 1J m. 
Eginen Thai. 

[Bridle-path up Eginen Thai, 
over the Nufenen pass to Airolo 
on the St. Gotthard (Rte. 63).] 

[Bad bridle-path up Eginen 
Thai over the Gries glacier to 
Falls of Tosa and Val Formaz^a, 
18 fr. for horse.] 

Munster, 400 Inhab. (Inn, la2J m. 
Croix d'Or, good) ; in full view of 
the peak of the "Weisshorn, a neigh- 
bour of Monte Rosa. Horses and 
Guides here ; Antonio Guntren 
is a trustworthy guide, well ac- 
quainted with the Gries pass. 

[Ascent of theLdffelhorn(io t 26S 
ft.), 4 hrs. Vieiv of the Finsteraar 
Horn is singularly fine, but in 
other respects the position is not 
equal to that of the iEggisch- 
horn.] 

Through a succession of villages 

to 

Viesch (a very fair country Inn, 9 J m. 
H. du Glacier), at the entrance 
of a side valley, blocked up at 
its upper extremity by the Viesch 
glacier, above which rise the 
peaks called Viescher-Horner. 
There exists a tradition that a 
path once led up this valley to 
Grindelwald : it is now entirely 
stopped by the glacier, and this 
circumstance is supposed to prove 
a great increase of the mass of 
ice. Guides and Horses. 

[To iEggischhorn, see below.] 

F 



131 



Bte. 28.—GRIMSEL to BBIEG. 



132 



1 J m. Laax (Croix Blanche, good). 
[Up Binnen Thai, 4 passes into 
Vol Formazza, Kte. 61.] Cross 
and re-cross Ehone. 

5 m. Morill (Inn • Hotel iEggisch- 
horn). The stream of the Massa, 
issuing from the Aletsch Glacier, 
here joins the Ehone. The 
volume of its waters is greater 
than that of any other glacier 
stream in the Alps. 

4m. Haters, a village of 600 Inhab., 
lies in a beautiful situation and 
in a milder climate, where the 
chestnut begins to nourish. Above 
it rises the ruined castle of Auf 
der Fliih, or Supersax. 

\Bel Alp, 2jhrs.,a good moun- 
tain Inn, much frequented, owing 
to its commanding position in 
regard to the Aletsch Glacier. 
Route thence over the glacier 
to the iEggischhorn, commonly 
taken even by (good) lady- 
walkers. Horses can be taken 
either side, as far as the glacier ; 
which requires J hr. to cross.] 

A wooden bridge leads across 
the Ehone to 

1 m. Brieg ( Inn, Post), at the foot 
of the Simplon (Ete. 59), 2 hrs. 
from Visp. 

Hotel of the JEggisclihorn. 

There are four ways of reaching the 
iEggischhorn Hotel. 1. From Viesch, 
ik hrs. ; 2. From Lax, ii hrs. ; 3. Froni 
Morell by the Rieder Alp, 5? hrs.; 4, 
From the Bel Alp across the glacier in 

hrs. The first three wholly, and the 
fourth partially, passable on horseback. 
The easiest is from Yiesch. 

Viesch (Inn, see above). The 
footpath from thence takes J hr. 
less time and is more shady than 
the bridle-path. The heat of the 
sun is oppressively felt. The 
track is intersected by slides for 
sledges, that carry down cheeses 
and hay from the pastures above. 



End of Forest. Here the path 1| hr. 

passes through some chalets, and 
the Inn is in sight ; it seems much 
nearer than it really is. 

Hotel of the .Eggischhorn H hr. 

(about 7000 ft.), kept by M. Wel- 
lig, of the Vallais; comfortable 
mountain inn, 40 beds, and in- 
telligent landlord. It is one of 
the head-quarters of high Alpine 
scenery. Its attractions are the 
panoramic view from the peak 
above it ; the unequalled extent of 
the Aletsch glacier at its feet, and 
of the snow-fields that feed it; 
the numerous glacier passes of the 
first class, and the high ascents 
that can be made from it as a 
starting-point ; the strange beauty 
of the Marjelen See, and the 
merry bustle and rough comfort 
of the hotel. Considering the 
difficulties in procuring the most 
ordinary supplies at so remote a 
place, the Inn must be pro- 
nounced excellent. Good wine 
and good cookery. The house is 
frequently quite full ; a numerous 
party should write for rooms. 
The only point upon which resist- 
ance is sometimes necessary here 
is in regard to the number of 
guides and the quantity of pro- 
visions required for the more diffi- 
cult excursions. It is said that 
men have been sent with travel- 
lers who are not fit to cope with 
the difficulties of such ascents as 
the Finsteraarhorn or the Jung- 
frau. 

Summit of the Mqoischhorn, 1J hr. 
9656 ft. Bridle-path the first 
part of the way, afterwards it 
becomes steep and slippery, and 
the top is formed of shattered 
blocks, with rifts between. Un- 
practised mountaineers should 
take a guide, especially after fresh 
snow, and not disdain his prof- 



135 



Rte. 31.— STANZ to ENGELBERG. 



136 



fered hand, as slight but disagree- 
able accidents often occur. 

View (see panorama). 
— The entire course of the great 
Aletsch Glacier from the peaks 
and snow-fields that feed it above, 
down to the foot of the Bel 
Alp below ; the deep blue M'arje- 
lin See at the side of the glacier 
and 2000 ft. below the peak (see 
below) ; the Viesch glacier, like 
an ice cataract ; and lastly, a 
panorama that includes nearly or 
quite all the highest summits of 
the Alps. Taken in the order in 
which they present themselves, 
we have Mont Blanc, with his 
attendant aiguilles; the Grand 
Combin, or GrafYeneire ; the Weiss- 
horn ; Matterhorn ; Dom ; Monte 
Rosa ; Laquinhorn ; Weissmies ; 
Monte Leone ; the range, ex- 
tending from thence to the St. 
Gotthard ; the distant Todi, seen 
beyond the Furka pass ; the Ga- 
lenstock, Oberaarhorn, and Fin- 
steraarhorn, succeeded by the 
group of % peaks that circle the 
head of the great Aletsch glacier ; 
— viz., the Walliser Viescher- 
horner, the Monch, the Jungfrau, 
and the Aletschhorn. The last 
of these is the high peak imme- 
diately to the left of the black 
promontory, at whose base the 
Middle Aletsch Glacier flows 
into the greater ice-stream. A 
drawing of the panorama is hung- 
up in the hotel. 

Marjelen See, 2 hrs. walk from 
the Inn ; a mule-path is talked of, 
and also a boat on the lake. The 
eastern rocky bank of the Great 
Aletsch Glacier is broken away 
for upwards of |m., immediately 
below the iEggischhorn. Conse- 
quently a cliff of ice 50 ft. high 
is exposed to view. The drain- 
age of the glacier streams and of 
the surrounding mountains forms 



at its foot a small lake, called the 
Marjelen See. The blocks of ice 
that " calve " from the cliffs, float 
on its waters as nriniature ice- 
bergs. From time to time the 
onward movement of the Aletsch 
glacier opens some sub-glacial 
channel, by which a great part of 
the waters escape beneath the ice, 
leaving a fleet of icebergs stranded 
on the shores of the lake. 

Aletsch Glacier. — The above ex- 
cursion is generally combined with 
a visit to the Aletsch glacier, which 
is easy of access, and in great part 
free from dangerous crevasses. 
It is only after walking some 
miles upon its surface that a true 
impression can be formed of the 
vast extent of this sea of ice. 

High Glacier Excursions. 

Kippel, over Lbtchsattel, 10 hrs. Kte. 
60. 

Grimsel, over Oberaarjocli. Rte. 27. 

Grindeluali — 5 passes have been made. 
The shortest is between the Monch and 
the Viescherhorner, and is about 16 hrs. 
(actual walking). 

Ascents of Finsteraarhorn, and of Jung- 
frau. In either case sleep at Faulberg 
Cave. Ascent of Aletschhorn. 



Rte. 31.— STANZ to ENGEL-. 
BEKG. 

Char-road, 1 horse, i2fr„ I2^m.,4i hrs. 
walk. 

Stanz (Kte. 19). The road leads 
up the valley of the Aa river. 

Wolfenschiess Village (I;w,4m 
Eintracht). Here the road 
crosses the river. 

Grafenort (small Inn). Ascent 3 m 
through thick woods and amidst 
sublime scenery. 



MEYRINGEN to ALTORF. 138 



[Ascent of Titlis, 10,634 ft. ; 
6 to 8 brs. to top. It is usual to 
sleep on hay at the upper Triibsee 
chalets, 2 J hrs. from Engelberg. 
(The ascent is better made from 
the Engstlen Inn, on the Joch 
Pass, Ete. 32).] 

[To Meyringen and to Altorf, 
see Kte. 32.3 



137 £.31.— ENGELBERG. 32, 



5} m. Engelberg, 3220 ft. (Inns: 
Pension Catani ; Hotel and Pension 
Miiller, good, clean, and moderate ; 
Engel, good.) Whey cure. Good 
horses are to be hired here. If not 
overcrowded, it has attractions for 
a stay of some days. The village 
and Abbey of Engelberg are hem- 
med in on all sides by lofty mtns. 
topped with snow and based by 
precipices, from which numerous 
avalanches fall in winter time and 
in spring. At their base, on a green 
slope, which contrasts agreeably 
with rock and snow, rises the 

Benedictine Abbey of Engelberg, 
conspicuous among the ordinary 
houses of the village. 

History. — The Abbey was 
founded in n 20, and received 
from Pope Calixtus II. the name 
of Mons Angelorum, from a tra- 
dition that the site of the build- 
ing was fixed by angels. Hav- 
ing been three times burnt, the 
present building is not older than 
1729. " The architecture is plain 
and unimpressive, but the situa- 
tion is worthy of the honours 
which the imagination of the 
mountaineers has conferred upon 
it." The convent is independent 
of any bishop or sovereign but 
the Pope himself, or his legate : 
its revenues, once considerable, 
were seriously diminished by the 
French, but it still possesses valu- 
able alpine pastures. The cheeses 
are stored in an adjacent warehouse 
and cellars. It contains, at pre- 
sent, only 19 brothers. It has a 
Library of some value, rich in 
Swiss early printed books and 
illuminated MSS. ; the roof of the 
apartment in which it is placed 
has been cracked by an earth- 
quake. 

In its large cli. are paintings 
by Dcschwandcn and Kaiser, 
native artists. 



Rte, 32. — MEYRINGEN to 
ALTORF, by ENGELBERG, 
the JOCH and SURENEN 
PASSES. 

a. — Meyringen or Reichenbach to 
Engelberg by the Joch bridle- 
pass. 

MEYRINGEN Hrs. 
to Hrs. Engstlen . . 5I 

Inikof . . Engelberg . 43- 

The Joch pass is a fine one. 
It offers great variety of scenery, 
and commands beautiful views of 
the Wetterhorn and the Titlis. 

Though a good deal used, the road is 
rough and steep in many places. 

Imhof is a quieter and more convenient 
sleeping-place than Meyringen. Engstlen 
is a favourite little mountain Inn, and 
constantly crammed with English. 

Meyringen, by char- road (see 
Pte. 26) to 

Imhof Inn; horses kept (Ete. ljhr. 
26). Here bridle-road begins, and 
turns 1. 

Eridge at Wyler, at the junc- f hr. 
tion of the torrent from the Gen- 
tel Thai, 1., with that from the 
Gadmenthal. Our route crosses 
the bridge, and mounts the hill 
towards the Gentel Thai. 

[By Susten bridlc-pass to Gad- 
men, 4J hrs. ; thence 8 hrs. to 



139 



Bte. 32.— JOCH PASS-SURENEN. 



140 



Wasen on the St. Gotthard (Rte. 
34).] 

Ascent rapid and often very 
hot, bad bridle-path. 

Ifhr. Gentel Thai pastures 'begin. 
Here is a grateful spring of water. 
Thence up a gentle rise, keeping 
the stream on the rt., to and across 
the 

ljhr. Bridge at the beginning of 
the pastures of the Engstlen Alp. 
Wrestling - matches (Schwing- 
feste) are held here at the end of 
July. Streams burst in waterfalls 
out of the Gadmenfluh cliffs. 

A rocky, picturesque path, 
partly through pine-forest (note 
the Pinus Cembra), leads to 

ljhr. Engstlen, 6ooo ft. (Inn com- 
fortable, when not too full ; a fa- 
vourite mountain quarter). Views 
of the Wetterhorn and of the 
Titlis. 

[ Wiinderbrunnen, 5 minutes' 
walk ; an intermittent spring fed 
by snows melted during the day. 
In sunny weather it rims from 
about 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.] 

Lake of Engstlen— a dreary 
lam is left on rt. 

ljhr. Summit of Jock pass, 7000 ft. 
[Ascent of Titlis, 10.690 ft. A 
mountaineer can easily reach the 
top in 5 hrs. froin Engstlen Inn, 
and descend in 3 J. Lady-walkers 
occasionally climb it. The ascent 
leads over rocks mixed with 
patches of snow, and the last hour 
is on a snowy ridge]. 

Trubsee on rt. or S.E. of path, 
here ill-marked. The lake is fed 
by the glaciers of the Ochsenberg. 

[A rough pathway, but a short 
cut, saving 1 hr., crosses, rt., the 
brook that enters the Trubsee, by a 
bridge (often washed away). It 
leads by the Pfaffenwand, 20 mi- 



nutes' steep descent ; then enters 
the forest, and finally crosses the 
Aa R. to Engelberg.] 

Bridge £ m. below the exit of 
stream from the Trubsee. 

Bridge across the confluent tor- 
rent (the Aa) coming from the rt. 

Char-road is"" reached that joins 
Engelberg with Stanz. Turn rt. 

Engelberg (see Ete. 31). 3 hrs 

b. — Engelberg to Altorf by the 
Surenen bridle-pass. 

ENGELBERG- to Hours. 

Summit of pass (bridle) . 4 

Attinghausen „ . 3^ 

Altorf „ . i 

8 

When there is fresh snow on the pass, 
allow 1 or 2 hrs. more. Better horses are 
to be found at Engelberg than at Altorf. 

During the greater part of the 
ascent the Titlis is a magnificent 
object. A long range of peaks 
and glaciers extends from it un- 
interruptedly to the Surenen. On 
the other side of the col is the 
striking gorge of Boghy. A divi- 
sion of the French army crossed 
this pass with cannon in 1799. 

Engelberg to 

Herrenruthi. The dairy be- H In* 
longing to the convent ; rich pas- 
tures. The Datschbach waterfall 
bursts forth, rt., from the Hahnen- 
berg. 

Bridge across the Aa E. i hr. 

Second bridge, where the Stie- 
renbach affluent leaps with a 
pretty cascade into the deep ra- 
vine. 

Chalets are passed, and then 
some patches of snow. 

Summit or Surenen Eck, 2 J hr 

7548 ft., a ridge not more than 



141 Bte. Sl.—The PASS 



of ST. GOTTHABD. 142 



5 ft. wide, between the Blaken- 
stock, 1., and the Schlossberg, rt. 
View of the Glarnisch Mt. 

Descent over more snow-patches 
— steep and desolate road. 

Waldnacht Chalets — thence 
through 

Gorge of Boghy (Bockischlund), 
deep and picturesque, to 

Valley of the Reuss. Here the 
road divides. (For the St. Gotthard 
Pass take the rt. branch to Erst- 
feld.) Our rte. is 1. 

3| hrs. Attinghausen. Rte. 34. 

Cross the Eeuss. 

Jhr.Altorf. Rte. 34. 



Rte. 3 4. -The PASS of ST. 
GOTTHARD, from FLUELEN, 
on the LAKE of LUCERNE, to 
BELLINZONA.— 76 m. 

FLUELEN to Miles. 

Miles , St. Gotthard Pass 

Amsteg . . 10 Airolo. . . 8 

Andermatt . 14! Faido ... 10 

St. Gotthard Bodio . . .11 

Pass . .11 Bellinzona . 16 

Steamers from Lucerne to Fliielen. 
Thence diligences (places in which must 
be secured at Lucerne or on board the 
steamer) 2 or 3 times a day for Bellin- 
zona in 15 hrs. From the coupe (3 places) 
something of the scenery may be seen ; 
from the corner places in the interior, a 
very little; from the middle places, 
nothing whatever. There is no ban- 
quette. A single traveller may some- 
times induce the conducteur to give him 
his place outside. A good carriage-road 
from Fliielen to Brunnen and Lucerne 
since 1865, made for military purposes 
by the Swiss Government. 

Post Carriages. — The innkeepers on 
both sides of the pass undertake to for- 



ward travellers in post carriages, and with 
post horses, for a fixed moderate charge. 
This service is well organised. Travellers 
may sleep at any of the post stations. 
Carriages with 2 horses, for 4 or 5 persons. 
From Fliielen to 

Andermatt or Hospenthal . 30 fr. 

Airolo 30 „ 

Faido 15 „ 

Bellinzona 25 „ 

Lugano 25 „^ 

Como 25 „ 

Pourboire to drivers, about 25 „ 
for the journey. Total 150 fr. 
At this rate 4 persons may travel 
nearly as cheaply in a hired carriage as 
by diligence. 

Lohnkutschers or vetturini abound at 
Fliielen, and some of them are generally 
on board the steamers looking out for 
custom. To Como about 250 fr., includ- 
ing all charges, in 3 days, reaching Como 
on the 3rd, in time for the last rly. train 
for Milan. Have this last point secured 
in a written agreement, which should 
also stipulate that the driver is to stop at 
the inns which the traveller may select. 

Pedestrians should drive as far as Am- 
steg, or Wasen, where the ascent properly 



The road of the St. Gotthard is 
excellent, not inferior in its con- 
struction to any other of the 
great Alpine highways, and cer- 
tainly not surpassed by any in 
the interest and grandeur of its 
scenery. Even in the depth of 
winter carriages are safely trans- 
ported across on open sledges, 
except immediately after a snow- 
storm, when the road is some- 
times blocked up for a week. The 
traffic over it by heavy waggons, 
which convey the merchandise 
between N. Switzerland and W. 
Germany to Italy, far exceeds that 
over any other Alpine pass. Many 
rare minerals are found, and may 
be purchased better here than in 
other parts of Switzerland. 

Fliielen (Inns: Adler, Croix 
Blanche ; both opposite the steam- 
boat pier. Conveyances of all 
kinds). The village is small, and 
in a naturally unhealthy situa- 



14B Mte. fiie PASS of ST. GOTTHARD. Ui 



tion; but the Keuss has been 
deepened where it enters the lake, 
and the malaria on the adjacent 
shores has abated. 

2 m. Altorf (Inns : Adler, good ; 
Schliissel (Clef d' Or), civil people ; 
Bar ; Lowe ; Krone ; Aigle, good) 
is the chief place of the canton, 
and yet a dull village of 2400 
Inhab. It was the tradition- 
ary place where Tell shot the 
apple from off his son's head. 
A colossal statue of Tell in plas- 
ter, replacing a Stone fountain, 
marks the place whence he took 
aim ; lime-tree, on which Gessler's 
cap was placed for all men to do 
obeisance to as they passed, existed 
up to 1567. Tower, with frescoes 
of Tell's life, was built before the 
time of Tell. In Rathhaus flags 
taken at Sempach and Morgarten. 
Wood above Altorf (Bannwald) 
preserved sacred from the axe, 
to preserve the village from falling- 
avalanches and rock. 

Schachenthal, 1. ; its mouth is 
close by Altorf. In this valley 
Tell was born, and in its stream 
he lost his life (1350) in a 
vain endeavour to rescue a child 
from the waterfall by Burglen, his 
native place, where there is a 
small chapel, b. 1522, on the site 
of his house. 

[To Stachelberg by the Klauseu bridle- 
pass, 9^ hrs. Rte. 76.] 

[To Mnotta by the Kinzig Kulm bridle- 
pass, 9 hrs. Rte. 75.] 

Attingliausen, rt., on the other 
side of the Keuss, opposite Schach- 
cnthal, is the birthplace of Walter 
Fiirst, one of the 3 liberators of 
Switzerland. [Thence to Engel- 
berg by the Surenen bridle -pass, 
7i hrs., Ete. 31.] 

Through pretty meadows shaded 
by walnut-trees ; 1. rises the rocky 
wall of the Windgelle. Echo. 



I Erstfeldt. 4 

Ruined tower, 1., believed to be 
the Zwing (Uri Kestraint of Uri), 
built by Gessler to overawe the 
peasants, and demolished by them 
on their revolt in 1308, is passed 
before 

Amsteg (Inns: Hirsch, good 4 
country inn : Croix Blanche ; 
Stern), dehghtfully situated. A 
convenient stopping - place for 
those who intend to leave Fluelen 
by the afternoon steamer. 

[To Dissentis, in the Linththal, by the 
Etzlithal branch of the Maderaner Thai, 
and over the Kreuzli foot-pass, 10 hrs. 
Rte. 83.] 

[Up the Maderaner Thai to the glacier 
of Hiifi, foot 4 hrs. ; thence high glacier 
pass to the Linthal.] 

At the bridge of Amsteg the 
ascent begins. The Beuss foams 
deep below ; above rises the Bris- 
tenstock mtn. in tiers of precipices. 

Wasen (Bin: Ochs, fair), a 8 
village at the mouth of the Meyen- 
thal. 

[Up the Mayenthal to Reichenbach, or 
Meyringen, by the Susten bridle-pass, 12 
hrs.; but the journey may be broken. 
Rte. 32.] 

Goschinen. A narrow valley 4 
opens from the W., whence the 
torrent of the Goschinen Beuss 
descends from a glacier of the 
Galenstock. Here the main valley 
contracts into the 

Schollinen Ravine, running 
for 2J m. between granite cliffs. 
The Schollinen is the grandest 
feature of the St. Gotthard pass, 
not surpassed in the Alps. 

Devil's Bridge, in the midst of 
the Schollinen. Not an inch of 
space on the sides of the cliff for 
the sole of the foot to rest on, 
except what has been hewn. This 
must have been a cul de sac until 



i45 Rte. Si.— The PASS 



of ST. GOTTHARD. 146 



^the torrent was bridged and the 
rock bored through. The old 
bridge had originally an air at 
once of boldness and fragility ; 
but the massive new bridge domi- 
neers over it from a higher level, 
and has deprived its predecessor 
and the road on either side of it 
of all its terror and much of its 
sublimity. 

French, Austrians, and Russians. 
During the extraordinary cam- 
paign of 1799 the Devil's Bridge 
was the scene of 2 contests in 6 
weeks. On Aug. 14, the French, 
under Lecourbe and Loison, sur- 
prised the Austrians, who held the 
valley of the Eeuss, and drove 
them up to the bridge, and, by 
threatening their flank and rear, 
compelled them to retreat behind 
it and finally to vacate the valley 
altogether. There is a current 
but untrue tale of a hand-to-hand 
battle on the bridge at the mo- 
ment when it was blown up. On 
Sept. 24 the Kussians, under 
Suwarrow, poured over the St. 
Gothard and drove the French 
down again. The tactics were 
similar, and the traditionary ac- 
counts of their contest just as 
imaginative as in the case of the 
previous battle. Jomini's version 
is reliable. (See Swiss Handbk.) 

m.TTrnerloch Tunnel, 180 ft. long ; 
end of the Schollinen. Before 
this was bored, travellers had to 
double the shoulder of the moun- 
tain by walking round it upon a 
shelf of planks hung by chains 
from above. 

Urseren Thai. Through this 
narrow gallery the traveller pe- 
netrates into the broad, open, 
treeless pastoral valley of Urseren. 
Its abrupt contrast with the 
savage gorge of the Schollinen 
has earned for it perhaps undue 



praise for its beauty and fertility. 
It appears to have been a lake 
until the Eeuss obtained its 
present outlet. In former times 
it was usually entered by the 
pass of the Oberalp. 

Andermatt, or Urseren (4450 1 
ft.) {Inns : Drei Konige or Poste ; 
H. du St. Gotthard). Keel trout, 
good honey, and cheese. Su- 
warrow's hordes arrived here in 
1799 famished with hunger. A 
store of soap in the larder of the 
inn was devoured, and some skins 
hung out to dry were boiled and 
eaten by them also. 

[To Dissentis, in the Vorder Rheinthal, 
across the Oberalp. Post and carriage- 
road, 7£ hrs. Rte. 82.] 

Hospenthal (Inns : Meyerhof, 1 
a large and very good hotel; 
Goldener Lowe, very good), if 
m. from Andermatt. Excellent 
honey and trout. The hospice, 
whence the place takes its name, 
exists no longer. The ruined 
Tower on the height is Lombard. 

[By Furca carriage-road to hotel at the 
Glacier of the Rhone, Rte. 26. Thence 
either by the Grimsel to Meyringen, or 
down the Rhone Valley to Brieg.~\ 

Summit of the Pass (6808 ft.). 9 
Ascent by numerous zigzags to a 
desolate col in the great granite 
ridge, overlooked by snow-peaks 
varying from 8000 to 10,000 ft. 
The aggregate group of mountains 
is called St. Gotthard. There is 
no single peak of that name. The 
road winds among patches of 
water on a bleak upland. 

H. de la Fibbia, at roadside, has 
18 bed-rooms, and is warmed 
with hot air. 

Hospice. A massive building, 
fitted roughly as an Inn, and 
under the management of a priest. 
It is supported by charitable con- 
tributions, and a small grant from 



147 Bte. SL—The PASS 



of ST. GOTTHABD. 148 



the government of the canton, 
and by this means aids 10,000 or 
12,000 poor travellers yearly, dis- 
tributing gratis 20,000 rations of 
bread, broth, and 'coffee. A hum- 
ble refuge was founded here by 
an abbot of Disentis in the 13 th 
cent. It was enlarged, at the sug- 
gestion of St. Carlo Borromeo, in 
the 1 7th cent. ; it was swept 
away by an avalanche 1775; 
then rebuilt ; and afterwards 
gutted by the French, who en- 
camped here 1799- 1800. Few 
winters occur without loss of life 
to travellers, though communi- 
cation is rarely interrupted for 
more than a day. 

Descent is skilfully engineered 
by a series of 28 zigzags that 
begin a little beyond the hospice 
and continue to Airolo. Horses 
accustomed to the work trot 
quickly down. Suwarrow Victor, 
cut on the face of the rock near 
the uppermost zigzag, records the 
gaining of the Pass by the Eus- 
sians from the French in 1799. 
It was here that the Eussian 
grenadiers were arrested by the 
fire of French riflemen. The 
aged Suwarrow, indignant at 
being foiled, ordered a grave to 
be dug, and, lying down in it, 
declared he would be buried on 
the spot where " his children " had 
been repulsed. This appeal was 
responded to by his soldiers, and 
they drove the republicans from 
their position. Vol Tremola 
(Germ. Triimmeln Thai) is the 
name of the gully down which 
the road passes, dangerous in 
winter and spring from the de- 
scent of avalanches. The new road 
keeps the Ticino to its 1., and be- 
fore reaching Airolo sweeps far 
into the Val Bedretto, through 
the forest of Piotella, where the 



slate rocks are full of crystals of 
garnet. View in front. 

Airolo (Germ. Eriels). 387r8m. 
ft. {Inns: Post, best; Tre Ee, 
good). Its inhabitants, both in 
habit and language, are Italian. 
The transit of travellers and goods 
are its chief sources of prosperity. 

The summit of the pass may be reached 
from Airolo by a light carriage in 2 i or 
3 hrs. ; by means of the old road and 
short cuts a pedestrian may ascend, and 
even descend, in less time than a carriage. 

[Several mnle-paths meet at Airolo. 
1. Up the Yal Bedretto to the Ntifenen 
Pass (Rte. 63): 2. By the Uomo Pass 
into the Grisons (Ptte. 84) : 3. Into the 
Yal Formazza by Hospital all' Acq.ua 
(see Rte. 62).] 

The roadway is partly exca- 
vated in the rock through, the 
defile (Stretto) di Stalvedro, near 
its entrance. Above a tunnel 
rises a ruined Tower, called Casa 
del Pagani, built, it is said, by 
Desiderius King of the Lombards, 
a.d. 774. The Lombard kings 
constructed a line of similar forts 
all the way to Como; many of 
them are passed in descending 
the valley. 

Quinto. This part of the pass 5 m. 
was defended Sept. 1 799, by a body 
of 600 French, against 3000 grena- 
diers of Suwarrow's army for 12 
hrs., after which they effected then* 
retreat over the Ntifenen into the 
Valais. The valley is now called 
Val Levantina ' v Germ. Livinen 
Thai). A few miles lower down 
the river threads another defile, 
named after a toll-house within 
it. 

Dazio Grande, nearly a mile 2 m. 
long, and one of the most pic- 
turesque scenes * on the whole 
route. The new road *out of the 
reach of inundations ; it passes 3 
short tunnels. On emerging from 
the last of these a waterfall is 
seen rt. resembling that (now 



149 Bte. U.—The PASS of ST. GOTTHARD. 150 



defunct) of the Pelerins near 
Chamouni, — a shoot of water 
rebounding upwards. Chestnut- 
trees first appear soon after the 
defile of Dazio, and vines are cul- 
tivated at 

3m, Faido (Inns: Angelo, good; 
Sole), the principal place in the 
valley, a small town of 615 Inhab. 
(Waterfall of the Piumegna, worth 
visiting, especially the upp'er fall, 
a short walk from the inn.) 

A revolt, in 1755, of the people 
of the Val Leventina, against 
their tyrannical masters the cow- 
herds of Uri, was here terminated 
by the execution of the ring- 
leaders, whose heads were fast- 
ened to the trunks of the vast 
chestnut-trees, in the presence of 
3000 men of the valley. The 
troops of the Confederation had 
previously disarmed this ill-starred 
band of rebels, and afterwards 
compelled them, on bended knees, 
to sue for mercy. 

[Footpath to Disentis over the Luk- 
manier. Rte. 85.] 

^ Through a highly - cultivated 
tract the road reaches another 
fine defile full of chestnut-trees. 
7m. Giornico (Germ. Irnis), (Inns: 
H. du Cerf, clean ; La Corona, 
dirty), village, 700 Inhab. Ch. 
of Sta. Maria di Castello, and Ch. 
of S. Nicholas da Mira, are ex- 
amples of the earliest form of 
Christian buildings. The archi- 
tecture of St. Nicholas is of the 
rudest Komanesque ; the E. end 
offers perhaps the most perfect 
specimen of a choir raised upon 
substructions that hardly merit 
the name of a crypt. 

The whole neighbourhood is 
exceedingly picturesque, and de- 
serves as much attention as many 
places which enjoy a much more 
extended reputation. The number 



and height of the church-towers 
are among the most striking fea- 
tures of this country. They are 
piled story upon story in the 
Italian fashion, sometimes reach- 
ing even to an eighth tier, and 
ending in a ridge roof. 

Bodio ({Inn: Post). Here the 4 J 

Sassi Grossi, a heap of large 
rocks, serves as a monument of 
the victory gained here in 1478 
over the Milanese by the Swiss, 
who had made a foray as far as 
Bellinzona, under pretext of re- 
dressing the injury done by the 
Milanese, in having felled trees 
belonging to canton Uri. The 
winter had set in with severity, 
and the main body of the Swiss 
had returned across the pass with 
their plunder, leaving behind 
only 600 men under Captains 
Stanga of Giornico, and Troger 
of Uri. The Milanese, 15,000 
strong, pressed forward to expel 
the highland invaders, who, on 
then side, laid the flat land in 
this part of the valley under 
water, and, placing themselves 
behind, awaited their enemies. 
The water froze hard in the night, 
and, next morning, while the ad- 
vance of the Italians across the 
ice was naturally slow and falter- 
ing, the Swiss, accustomed to 
glaciers, rushed clown upon them 
in a furious charge, and at once 
put them to the rout. Their 
confusion was increased by masses 
of rock hurled from the cliffs above 
by parties stationed for the pur- 
pose, and the slaughter was enor- 
mous. According to some accounts 
1400, according to others 4000, of 
the Milanese fell on this occasion. 

Val Levantina terminates at 2 J 
the junction of the Blegno. After 
crossing that river the traveller 
leaves to his I, 



151 Bte. 3+.-ST. GOTTHABD — BELLINZONA. 152 



Biasca {Inn : Union, poor and 
slovenly). Ancient church, on the 
slope of the hill. A chain of 
chapels, or Via Crucis, leads from 
it up to the Chapel of St. Pe- 
tronilla. 

Diligence to Olivone, and bridle- 
path thence over the Lukrnanier 
(Ete. 85). • 

Landslip. A vast mass of earth 
and rock fell in 15 12 from the 
mtn. E. of Biasca into Val Blegno. 
It blocked up its mouth, arrested 
the course of the river, and ex- 
tended high up on the opposite 
side of the valley. For nearly 
two years the waters accumulated 
behind this dam, and formed a 
lake many miles in extent. At 
length it began to flow over 
the barrier, which, being thus 
loosened, suddenly gave way. The 
deluge thus occasioned swept off 
everything before it — towns, vil- 
lages, houses, and trees, as far as 
Bellinzona (a part of which was 
destroyed), and the Lago Mag- 
giore. Marks of the ruin may 
be still traced along the valley. 
At the same time a similar fall 
took place from the opposite side 
of the mountain, 5 m. to the E., 
which buried the village of Oampo 
Bagnino, in Val CalanJca. 
ljm. Junction of Bernardin road. 

[To Splugen over Bernardin Pass. Ete. 
91.] 

The river Ticino, to the rt. of 
the road, now runs in a wider 
channel, 

10 m. Arbedo, memorable for the 
severe defeat which the Swiss 
sustained from the Milanese in 
J 42 2. Near the Ch. of St. Paul, 
called Chiesa Bossa, from its red 
colour, 2000 Swiss lie buried 
under 3 large mounds. Defeat 
was so unusual^to the Swiss that 



they retired across the Alps 
abashed and discouraged. 

*View of Bellinzona, in the 
distance, surrounded by battle- 
in ented walls, and overhung by 
3 feudal castles. It looks as though 
it still commanded the passage 
of the valley. The luxuriance of 
vegetation and the magnificent 
mtns. complete the picture. 

Bellinzona (Germ. Bellenz). — 2 
{Inns: Angelo (Post); Italian, 
good ; Hotel de Ville, very fair and 
reasonable, Germ.), 1926 Inhab. 
It has the Ticino R. to its rt., here 
restrained by a long stone dam 
{Tondo Bipario). It is one of 
the 3 chief towns of the canton 
Tessin, and the seat of govt, 
alternately with Lugano and Lo- 
carno, for 6 years together. It 
has all the character of an Italian 
town in its narrow and dirty 
streets, and in the arcades which 
run under its houses. It stretches 
from the mtns. to the river, so that 
the only passage up or down the 
valley lies through its gates. It 
is still an entrepot for Germany 
and Italy — situated as it is at the 
union of 4 roads — from the St. 
Gotthard, the Bernardin, from 
Lugano, and from Locarno, on 
the Lago Maggiore. 

History. — In ancient times it 
was the key of the passage from 
Lombardy into German} 7 , and 
therefore a cause of intrigue and 
contest between the crafty Ita- 
lians and the encroaching Swiss. 
The latter first obtained posses- 
sion of it, and of the Val Leven- 
tina, by a nominal bargain of 
2400 florins paid to the lord of 
Misox. The Duke of Milan, whose 
ancestors had lost this territory, 
by no means acquiesced in this 
transfer, and, seizing a favour- 
able opportunity, surprised the 



Rte. 35. — LA TJTEBBB UNNEN to KIP PEL. 



154 



Rte. 3 5 . — LAUTERBRUNNEN 
(a) to KIPPEL— or (b) to KAN- 
DERSTEG, by the TSCHINGEL 
GLACIER. 

LAUTERBRUNNEN or MURREN. 
to Hrs. 
Steinberg Chalets . . j 

Col 4i 

Peter's Grat . . . i 
Kippel 4 

The passage of the Tschingel 
Glacier is one of great and de- 
served repute. It has the advan- 
tage of being within the powers 
of moderate mountaineers. 

The descent into the Lotsch Thai is 
somewhat difficult, but, if the recognised 
precautions be duly taken, there is no 
danger. A good walker may reach either 
Kippel or Kandersteg in i day from 
Lauterbrunnen ; but it is advisable to 
^leep at the chalet on the Steinberg Alp — 
a guide being sent on to prepare supper. 

From Lauterbrunnen to Stein- 
berg it is at first a char-road, 
then a bridle, and then a footpath 
(see Ete. 25). 

[From Murren to Steinberg 
chalet the distance is rather less. 
The rte. follows a pleasant path 
along the hill-side, passing a de- 
serted silver-mine.] 

Steinberg Chalet is of the 3 hrs. 

smallest dimensions, scarcely 
space for more than 2 travellers 
to stretch themselves on the floor, 
while the guides and herdsmen 
stow themselves in a hay-loft. 



! Swiss garrison of Bellinzona, and 
j took possession of the town and 
j 1 valley. This led to the battle of 
' Arbedo, in which the Swiss re- 
ceived so severe a check. They 
j afterwards twice gained posses- 
sion of Bellinzona and its subject 
valleys by hard fighting. From 
the beginning of the 16th to the 
end of the 18th century they 
maintained uninterrupted posses- 
sion, governing its territory, as a 
state subject to the cantons, with 
a rule as tyrannic as that of the 
absolute dukes of Milan, their 
predecessors. Since 18 14 it has 
formed part of the canton Ticino, 
or Tessin. 

Three picturesque Castles ; they 
were the residences of the 3 Swiss 
bailiffs deputed to govern the dis- 
trict. The largest, called Castello 
Grande, or San Michele, on an 
isolated hill W. of the town, be- 
longed to canton Uri, and now 
serves as an arsenal and prison. 
In a tall tower are confined the 
prisoners who are condemned to 
imprisonment for life for murder. 
The other prisoners are in chains, 
but do not seem unhappy. 1 fr. 
will procure admission. View from 
it. Castello di Mezzo, the lower 
castle, E., belonged to canton 
Schwytz; Castello Corbario, the 
highest of all, to Unterwalden. 
These are both unoccupied. 

A few hours of Bellinzona are 
quite enough. Locarno is a more 
pieasant place, and the inn as 
good. 

From Bellinzona the traveller has the 
choice of two ways to Milan: by the 
Lago Maggiore (Rte. 111), or by the Lago 
di Lugano (Rte. 115). 



Tschingel Glacier. As the J hr. 

glacier itself is impracticable, 
its upper level is reached by 
climbing the rocks. Beware of 
falling stones. A steep bank of 
shattered slate sometimes appears 
difficult to unpractised travellers. 
Above this is the 



Tschingel Tritt, a face of rock 



155 



Rte. 35 . — LA TJTERBR UNNEN to KIPPEL. 



156 



not more than 30 ft. high, where 
goatherds place the trunk of a 
pine-tree against the rock, to 
serve as a rude ladder. It, 
however, is constantly broken or 
carried away by avalanches, so 
that the tourist has usually to 
ascend by climbing the rock. 
This is rough, and gives good 
hold both for feet and hands ; but 
the guides never fail to give 
abundant, and even superfluous 
assistance, while they often ne- 
glect the necessary precaution of 
the rope, against the more real, 
but not apparent, dangers of 
the upper glacier. Above the 
Tschingel Tritt the ascent con- 
tinues up rather steep slopes. 

ljhr. Upper Glacier is reached. As- 
cent S.W. [If not pressed for 
time, it is well worth while to 
make a detour (scarcely J an hr.) 
to the Gamschiliicke, an opening 
in the ridge on the rt., overlook- 
ing the Kien Thai (Rte. 36), and 
beyond it the plain of Switzerland 
and the distant range of the Jura. 
A portion of its panorama is pub- 
lished in Gottlieb Studer's ' Topo- 
graphische Mittheilungen.' ] 

2jhrs. Col, 9252 ft., between the 
Micthhorn, a dome-shaped summit, 
rising in the midst of the Tschin- 
gel Glacier, and the Frau, or 
Blmnlis Alp, which bounds _the 
glacier plateau to the N. Here 
diverge the two rtes. — a. to Kip- 
pel, — b. to Kandersteg. 

a. Route to Kippel. 

The snow sinks S.W. into a 
glacier valley between the Bliini- 
lis Alp and the comparatively low 
range between the Tschingelhorn 
and the Balmhorn and Altels. 
Over this latter range (which 
forms the boundary between Berne 
and Yalais) lies the route to 



Platten and Kippel, in the Lotsch 
Thai. 

Leaving the col, a short descent 
S.W., followed by a new ascent 
S., over moderate slopes of neve 
towards the summit. 

Peter's Grat. One wide ere- 1 hr. 
vasse is passed near the top or the 
summit of the ridge — above 10,000 
ft. *View, new to most Alpine 
travellers. In addition to the 
grand ranges of snowy mts. which 
have been in view throughout the 
ascent, the traveller now finds 
himself exactly opposite to the 
chain whose two extremities are 
the Aletscliliorn and the Nest horn, 
and which separates the Lotsch- 
thai from the valley of the Rhone. 
The mean height of this magnifi- 
cent range exceeds 12,000 ft. in 
height, and the Nestlihom or 
Bietsclihom from every point of 
view is a most striking and at- 
tractive object. 

The broad snow-covered ridge 
of Peter's Grat throws out several 
arms of glacier which fall into as 
many lateral glens of the Lotsch- 
thai. 

Descent— The usual 'course is 
to follow the L side Of the glacier 
which descends S. frorn the point 
at which the summit of the ridge 
is first attained. The' slope, at 
first gentle, soon becomes more 
steep. The glacier varies ex- 
tremely according to the season 
and the state of the snow. It is 
sometimes easy enough, some- 
times decidedly difficult, and will 
then require 1 or 2 hrs. longer 
than the time here allotted. 

[The pass is sometimes made by 
taking the Peter's Grat at a point 
farther W., and descending into 
the Lotsch thai by the W. side of the 
glacier that leads from thence.] 
In deciding the route it is best to 



157 Bte. 35.— LOTS CHTHAL. 



36. — SEEFINEN FUBKE. 158 



rely on the local knowledge of 
the guides. Beware of concealed 
crevasses. 

Leaving Glacier, and descend- 
ing a barrier of rocks below its 
foot, keep carefully to the track 
which is known to the guides ; 
there is no other practicable way. 

The grand views of the sur- 
rounding peaks are for a time 
concealed, and their place sup- 
plied by wild rock scenery in the 
steep and narrow glen, 

2 hrs. Lotschthal, "where the path 
emerges. * View of the Nesthorn, 
and of the great gl. which closes 
the upper end of the valley [over 
which lies the glacier route to the 
JEggisclihom by the Lotschsattel 
(Bte. 6o) .] 

Jhr. Platten is reached, where ac- 
commodation may be had at the 
house of the cure'. It has been 
usual to go farther and sleep at 

1 J hr. Kippel {see Rte. 3 8 to Turtman). 

In the Lotschthal, Joseph Appener is 
well known and recommended as a guide. 

b. Boute to Kandersteg. 
From Lauterbrunnen as before. 

LAUTERBRUNNEN or MURREN to 
Steinberg Chalets . . 3 hrs. 

Col 4i „ 

Im Selden Chalets . . 4 „ 
Kandersteg .... 2 „ 

3 hrs. Steinberg Chalets. Thence 
by rte. already described to 

4 J hrs. Col (where the Kippel rte. 
diverges), which separates the 
Tschingel and Kander Glaciers. 
Here the neve inclines with a 
gentle slope towards the Gasteren 
Thai. This gradually becomes 
steeper, and the increasing width 
of the crevasses makes it neces- 
sary to quit the glacier for the 

lhr. Rocks on its S. or l.-hand 
bank. Here there is a Spring, at 



which it is usual to halt for re- 
freshment. 

Descent steep and rough, with- 
out serious difficulty ; then a short 
passage over the lower end of the 
glacier. 

Im Selden (or Gasterendorf) 3 hrs. 
chalets in the Gasteren Thai. 
(Milk, cheese, and hay to sleep 
on.) The scenery of this wild 
and savage valley is of the highest 
order, and well deserves an ex- 
cursion from Kandersteg by those 
who do not cross the pass. By 
a tolerable track, used by herds- 
men, to 

Kandersteg (Kte, 37). 2 hrs. 



Rte. 3 6 . —LAUTERBRUNNEN 
or MURREN to KANDER* 
STEGr, by the PASSES of the 
SEEFINEN FURKE and DUN- 
DENGrRAT. 



LAUTERBRUNNEN to Hrs. 

Miirren 2£ 

Tschingel hamlet . . 5 
Kandersteg . . . . 

There are few routes among 
the Alps equally free from diffi- 
culty, which lead through such 
magnificent scenery. This path 
is barely practicable for mules. 
It ,was crossed 1866 by 2 ladies 
with a mule and 2 guides fur- 
nished ] by the landlord of the 
Victoria at Kandersteg, who with 
a little encouragement would 
make the path good up the 
OEschinenthal. 

The two passes, first into the Kiev thai, 
and secondly into the CEschinen Thai, if 
taken in a single day, make it laborious. 
Moreover, the descent into the valley of 
CEschinen is awkward after dark. The 
traveller, however good a walker he may 
be, will do well to allow himself 14 hrs. 
of daylight for the whole expedition from 



159 Bte. 36. — LA UTEBBBUNNEN to KANDEBSTEG. 160 



Lauterbrunnen. It requires 1 1 hrs. walk 
from Murren, exclusive of stoppages. 

On leaving Lauterbrunnen there is a 
choice of routes : one by the valley to 
Stechelberg, and then rt., up the Seejinen 
Thai; the other or better plan is to 
mount from Lauterbrunnen to Murren, 
and sleep there. 

Lauterbrunnen. Thence by 
Bte. 2 5 to 

2 J hrs. Murren. The track mounts 
for some distance to turn the flank 
of a ridge which descends rt. froni 
the Schilthorn. This brings the 
tourist to a position opposite 
the Jungfrau, at about the height 
of the Wengern Alp. View still 
more magnificent. The Jungfrau 
is from this point of view, and 
from this alone, measured in one 
glance from the snow on her sum- 
mit to the level road at her feet : 
in a word, of her 13,671 ft. of alti- 
tude, more than 10,000 rise at 
once in precipices before the eye. 

The track now winds away 
along the slope of the mountain, 
and falls in with the Seejinen 
Thai path just at the foot of the 
pass. An enormous buttress of 
the Gspaltenhorn here turns the 
direction of the route from W. to 
S.W. The ascent is rather steep, 
and clear of snow, in the height 
of summer ; which lies, however, 
in long slopes to the 1. 

3 hrs. Furke, or summit, 8572 ft. 
*View includes the FauLhom, and 
below it the Wengern Alp and 
its hotel. The head of the Kien 
Thai is filled by the Gamsclii 
glacier [over which it is said to 
be possible to gain the level of 
the Tschingel, through the Gain- 
schiliicke (Rte. 35)]. 

Descent into the Kien Thai re- 
quires an awkward circuit, which 
leads to a talus of slate debris. 
Next a long slope of snow, and 
then the greensward. 



The route taken by the guides 
leads to a bridge near the 

Tschingel hamlet, so low down 2 hrs, 
the valley as to increase consider- 
ably the toil of the next ascent. 

If the tourist is fatigued, or the 
sun much past the meridian, he 
will do well either to make up his 
mind to sleep at the chalets, or 
else to abandon the Diindengrat 
and descend by the Kien Thai to 
Beichenbach. 

Ascent of the ridge between this 
and the (Eschinen Thai is steep, 
but over good ground. View of 
the pyramidal Niesen Mt., and 
the L. of Thun beyond it. Near 
the top it becomes rough. There 
is a bed of snow, which adds to 
the fatigue of the last J hr. of 
ascent. It is but one step from 
the snow to the 

Diindengrat, or top of the 3 hrs. 

ridge, and the next is downhill, 
by a glacier. Here a new scene 
of magnificence opens. The glit- 
tering Frau, which is here quite 
close, with a triple glacier stream- 
ing down from her side into the 
gulfs beneath, and farther off the 
Doldenhorn, and the beautiful lake 
of (Eschinen encompassed by it, 
form a scene unparalleled in the 
Alps ; though resembling in some 
of its features the lake and glacier 
scenery near the summit of the 
Maloja. 

Descent either by the glacier 
or alongside of it, very rough. 
On reaching the high pastures, 
the descent to the level of the lake 
is practicable only by one route, 
where a path has been cut along 
the faces of the rocks. (#eeRte. 37.) 

(Eschinen See. — The path leads 2 
along the W. shore of the lake 
through a pine wood beyond it, to 

Kandersteg {see Rte. 37). 1| 



161 



Rte. 37.— PASS of the GEMMI—KANDEB. 



162 



Rte. 37.— PASS of the GEMMI. 
THUN to the BATHS of LETJK 
(LOECHE), and to LETJK in the 
VALAIS. 

THUN to miles. 

hrs. 



Schwarenbach Inn 
Leukerbad 



Inn j- (bridle-road) j: 
Leuk (carriage-road) . 



H 
miles. 
7 

Carriage from Thun to Frutigen : 20 fr. 
2 horses; 12 fr. i horse; 2 fr. bonnemain. 
J Ml. z hrs., 2 fr. 20. A pleasanter "route 
is to take the steamer to Spietz, a very- 
pretty place, whence a walk of io m. 
through fields leads to Frutigen. Chars 
may usually be found awaiting the 
steamer ; and a post-can*., with 3 places, 
starts to Frutigen in the afternoon. Char 
from Frutigen to Kandersteg, without 
bonnemain, 9 fr. Horse to Leukerbad, 
15 fr. To Dauben See, 10 fr. 

The Gemmi (pronounced Ghem- 
mi) is the most peculiar of the 
bridle-passes. Its zigzags down 
to Leukerbad are grooves quarried 
in the face of a sometimes per- 
pendicular cliff. * View from the 
summit towards Mte. Eosa. Kan- 
dersteg is situated at the N. foot 
of the pass, in the neighbourhood 
of grand valley scenery. 

Thun (Ete. 25). Thence the 
route skirts the lake. 

[From Interldken the high road 
to Thun is left a little beyond Leis- 
singen, and a char-road mounts 
the hill to JEschi (see further), 
and descends from thence to 
M iihlinen. Pedestrians may make 
a short cut.] 

Near the tall old toiver of 
Strattlingen, now powder maga- 
zine, road crosses the 

in. Bridge over the Kander. That 
river originally avoided the lake, 
and joined the Aar below Thun. 
Owing to the quantity of mud 
Kp. Switz. 



which it deposited, and its slight 
incline, it converted a district into 
an unhealthy marsh. In 17 14 
the river was tinned into the lake 
at the expense of the canton, by 
cutting a canal, 3000 ft. long and 
272 ft. broad, through the hill on 
which the tower of Strattlingen fc 
stands. Seen from the bridge, 
it has the appearance of a natural 
ravine. The deposit of sand 
brought down by the river into 
the lake has already so accumu- 
lated as to form a delta around 
its mouth, extending nearly a 
mile from the shore. 

Wyler. [A road turns 1. up to 2 j m 
the village of JEschi. The ascent 
of I hr. will be well repaid by the 
view from the churchyard, of Lake 
of Thun ; the singular Justis Thai 
on its N. side ; the range of the 
Jura ; on the W., close at hand, 
the Niesen and Stockhorn tower 
above the Simmenthal; E. the 
Lake of Brienz; the Eothhorn 
and Pass of the Briinig rising 
from its shores, topped by the 
Titlis ; S. the snowy giants of the 
Obeiiand. There is a carriage- 
road from JEschi direct to Muhli- 
nen.J The road passes the mouth 
of the Simmenthal (Ete. 42), be- 
tween the Stockhorn and the 
Niesen, two noble mountains, 
with the castle of Wimmis stand- 
ing as it were in its jaws. [From 
Wimmis the Ascent of the Niesen, 
7763 ft., in 4 J hrs. ; descent 3 hrs. 
Horse-path all the way. Inn with 
24 beds, 5 min. walk below the 
top. (See Hie. 25.)] 

On the margin of the lake rises 
the picturesque castle of Spietz. 

Skirting the base of the Niesen, 
we enter the fertile and truly 
Swiss valley of Frutigen. 

Muhlinen, no town, only a 4 m, 
nice little Inn, the Bear. 

G 



163 



Rte. 37.— PASS 



of the GEMMI. 



164 



lm. Reichenbach. The Kienthal 
opens out to the S.E. (Ete. 36.) 
Ascending by the side of the 
Kander, we reach 

4 m. Frutigen (Inns : Helvetia and 
Post, both fair and reasonable : 
3500 Protestant Inhab. The 
village was nearly destroyed in 
two consecutive conflagrations 
(1826-7). Behind it the valley 
forks, £The Y> T . leads by a char- 
road (7 m.) to Adelboden, up the 
Engstligen Thai, a deep and 
rather monotonous valley. Thence 
3i m. over the Eahnenmoos Pass 
to An der Lerik, Rte. 39.] 

Our route is by the side of the 
Kander, and follows the E. valley. 
It passes under the castle of Tell en- 
burg, and, crossing the Kander, 
proceeds up its rt. bank. The 
Snowy Altels closes the valley. 

8 m. Kandersteg (3 280 ft.). (2 Inns, 

11 in. apart. H. de l'Ours, best, 
and best placed for the ascent of 
the Gem mi, as it is built where 
the carr.-road ends and the bridle- 
path begins. H. Victoria, good, an 
old house with a new name, oppo- 
site entrance of QEschinen Thai.) 

Return chars to Thrm may be 
got here for 8 to 10 fr. ; with 2 horses, 

12 to 20 fr. Horses to cross the Gemini 
to the baths of Leuk cost 15 fr. before 
10 a.m., 20 fr. after ; 13 fr. to the Dauben 
Kehr. 

From Kandersteg to Leukerbad is about 
6+ hrs., by a broad bridle-path. 

Kandersteg is the last village 
in the valley, and widely scattered. 
It is beautifully situated at the N. 
base of the Genrnii. Wood cut 
in the mountain forests around is 
here set afloat in the Kander, and 
thus conveyed into the lake of 
Thun, where the logs are collected 
and separated by the various pro- 
prietors. 

[Excursions. — a. 3 m. into the 
side ** Valley of GEscliinen {see 



Rte. 36), running directly E. from 
the H. Victoria, where, hemmed 
in by precipices, waterfalls, and 
glaciers, lies a beautiful clear 
lake, which mirrors the snowy 
peaks of the Blumlis Alp, at 
whose base it lies. Let no one 
fail to make this excursion; it 
brings you at once into the heart 
of Alpine grandeur. — b. Gasteren 
Thai, about 7 hrs. No guide 
required. The path turns off 
close to the H. de TOurs, and 
ascends a small and narrow gorge 
with overhanging cliffs. In the 
middle of the gorge a frail bridge 
is crossed, and the path then 
keeps to the rt. bank, f hr. from 
Kandersteg the wide green Gas- 
teren Tlial opens, surrounded by 
precipices and waterfalls and 
snow mtns. above them. The 
path runs through debris, and 
then ascends to the village of 
Gasteren. Soon afterwards the 
magnificent Kander Glacier is 
seen at the head of the valley 
(see Rte. 35 ). Pedestrians may 
hence ascend the Gemmi by the 
rugged gorge of the Schwarz- 
bach. — c. W. in 5 hrs., over the 
Bonder-Grat, to Adelboden (Inn 
tolerable). (See above.) The 
path leaves the char-road just 
above Kandersteg, crosses the 
grassy slopes to the foot of some 
rocks, which it surmounts by a 
ladder. From the summit (3 hrs.) 
View of the Monch, Jungfrau, 
GEschinenthal, and lake. Above 
Adelboden is a fall of some mag- 
nitude. From Adelboden there 
is an easy path over the Hahnen- 
moos pass, in 3! hrs., to An der 
Lenk (Rte. 39).] 

Ascent of the Gemmi bridle-pass. 

Ascent commences in earnest 
just beyond theH. de l'Ours, and 
mounts in zigzags through fir 



165 



lite. 37.— PASS 



of the GEMML 



166 



woods, with view over the grand 
valley of Gasteren. 
3 hrs. It then emerges upon a tract 
of open pasture-land, rendered 
desolate by the fall of an ava- 
lanche from the Kinder Horn 
in 1782, and winds among the 
fragments of rock brought clown 
by it. 

lhr. Schwarenbach Inn (refresh- 
ments and rough sleeping ac- 
commodation; but complaints of 
extortion). The German poet 
Werner has laid in this gloomy 
spot the scene of a still more 
gloomy tragedy, 'The 24th of 
February.' The extravagant 
and improbable plot has no 
foundation in any real event 
which happened here. 

[Ascent of Altels Mt. (11,923 
ft.), 7 hrs. It is up a nearly 
straight slope of ice, and should 
not be attempted by less than 
3 men roped together.] 

|hr. Dauben See, a small lake ; the 
path winds along E. margin. It 
is supplied, not by springs, but by 
snow, which often swells it so as 
to cover the path : it is frozen for 
8 months of the year. The naked 
limestone rocks which form the 
summit of the pass seem too 
barren for even the hardiest 
lichens. 

lhr. Col. (7540 ft.). *View from 
an eminence 1. of the col. of the 
Alps beyond the Rhone, whose 
highest summits, reckoning from 
the W., are these : — 1. the Pigne 
dArolla, N.W. of the Collon; 
2. the Collon itself, easily recog- 
nised by the deep cleft in its 
side ; 3 . the Dent Blanche. Then 
come three or four minor peaks 
of the range at the head of the 
Einfisch Thai. Above this range 
are seen — 4. the Dent D'Erin ; 
and, 5 . the Cervin : both peaks of 



bare rock. The series is ter- 
minated by — 6. the Weisshorn, 
the loftiest and nearest mountain 
visible; and, 7. the Saas Grat, 
which is in itself a complete 
group of snowy peaks. 

Descent. Near its verge stands 
a shed, affording partial shelter in 
a storm. A little lower down 
the traveller finds himself on the 
brink of a precipice, from which a 
"plumb-line might be thrown into 
the valley below, nearly 1600 ft. 
It is principally upon the faces of 
a buttress of this vast wall that 
one of the most ingenious of all 
the alpine roads was constructed 
in 1736-41 by a party of Tyro- 
lese. 

Zigzags are mostly in grooves 
quarried in the face of the cliff; 
sometimes an upper terrace pro- 
jects farther out than the one 
immediately below it. It varies 
in width from 3 ft. to 5 ft., and is 
quite practicable for mules. The 
road has been improved year by 
year. 

[The wonders of these zigzags 
are increased to those who ap- 
proach them from the side of Leuk, 
for the upper end of the valley 
has all the appearance of being 
shut in by a mountain wall.] 

On the face of a rock, near the 
foot of the pass, is a small build- 
ing said to have been formerly 
used as a guard-house to give 
notice of any invasion from the 
Bernese side. 

The ascent from the Baths to the sum- 
mit takes 2 hrs., descent i£ hr. ; a mule 
costs 41 fr. up and down. 

Leukerbad (Fr. Bains deljhr. 
Loeche). 4500 ft. (Inns: Hotel 
des Alpes, best in all respects; 
Bellevue; H. de France; Cou- 
ronne ; Union, cheap.) 

There are 5 Bath establish- 
es 2 



167 Rte. 37.— The GEltMI—LEUK—The LADDERS. 168 



inents connected with the hotels, 
and these are attached to a hamlet 
of 3 oo Inhab., at the end of a valley 
terminated on all sides by tre- 
mendous precipices like a cirque 
in the Pyrenees. The hot springs 
attract a number of visitors, 
chiefly Swiss and French, during 
the season. Few English care to 
prolong then stay after a sight of 
the place. The baths and adja- 
cent buildings have been three 
times swept away by avalanches 
since then establishment in the 
1 6th century; and now a very 
strong dyke is built behind the 
village to ward off the snow. 
Such danger, however, is past 
before the bathing season begins. 
One of the first patrons of the 
baths was the Cardinal Archbp. 
of Sion, Matthew Schinner. 

Mineral Springs, to the number 
of io or 12, rise in and around 
the village, and nine-tenths of 
them run off into the Dala torrent 
without being used. The chief 
spring of St. Lawrence bursts 
forth between the inn and the 
bath-house — a rivulet in volume 
at its source, with a temperature 
of 124 0 Fahr. It is used for the 
baths after being slightly cooled. 
The other springs vary somewhat 
in temperature, but little in con- 
tents. They contain only a small 
portion of saline matter. The 
patient begins with a bath of 
i hr., but goes on increasing it 
daily, until at length he remains 
in the water 8 hours a day — 4 be- 
fore breakfast and 4 after dinner. 
The usual cure time (kur) is 3 
weeks. The principal bath-houses 
are divided into compartments or 
baths, each about 20 ft. square, 
and capable of holding 15 or 20 
persons. Along the partitions 
dividing the baths runs a slight 



j gallery, into which any one 
I is admitted, either to look on 
or converse with the bathers 
below. The stranger will be 
amazed on entering to perceive 
a group of some 12 or 15 heads 
emerging from the water, on the 
surface of which float wooden 
tables, holding coffee-cups, news- 
papers, snuff-boxes, and books. 
The patients, a motley company, 
of all ages, both sexes, and va- 
rious ranks, delicate young ladies, 
burly friars, invalid officers, and 
ancient dames, sit on benches 
below the water, all clad in long 
woollen mantles, with a tippet 
over their shoulders. Against the 
walls are hung regulations for the 
preservation of decorum in the 
baths, and the fine of 20 fr. for 
the higher offences. 

4 hrs. of subaqueous penance 
are succeeded by 1 hr. in bed; 
and many a fair nymph in ex- 
treme neglige, with stockingless 
feet and uncoifed hair, may be 
encountered crossing the open 
space between the . bath and the 
hotels. 

Mules are kept at the baths, under the 
direction of a commissaire : — printed 
tariff. 

Excursions. 

a. Ladders (Leiter). A path 
through the woods, on the 1. or 
E. side of the Dala, i| in., half 
an hour from the baths, leads 
to the foot of the precipice, 
which hems in the valley of 
Leuk on all sides, as with a 
colossal wall. Upon the sloping 
pasturages r m. above the crest 
of this precipice stands ATbinen 
vill. ; and the only mode by 
which its inhabitants can com- 
municate directly with Leuker- 
bad is by a series of 8 or 10 lad- 



169 Bte. 37. — GEMMI. 



ders placed nearly perpendicularly 
against the face of the cliff. It 
can hardly be called difficult to 
climb to the top ; but the ladders 
are often awry, and rather un- 
steady. Their use has given rise 
to a modification of the dress of 
the female peasants, which here 
includes those nether habiliments 
confined in other parts of the 
world to men and shrews. 

[From Albinen back to Leuk- 
erbad there is an ordinary road 
by a circuit through Inden.] 

b. Ascent of the Torrent-horn 
{see panorama) (9876 ft.), E. 
of Leukerbad. Mules can reach 
the summit in 3 J hrs. (10 fr. 
and bonne-main). View of an 
unbroken series of peaks from 
Mont Blanc to the Simplon ; 
with the Altels, Gspalthorn, 
and Blumlis Alp on the N. 
The Gemmi road lies deep be- 
low, and its summit is seen 
through a gap in the chain. The 
ridge ends in a precipice sur- 
rounded by isolated rocks, whose 
sides are equally vertical. The 
first 1200 ft. and the last 700 are 
a steep climb. Descent in 2 J 
hrs. 

Leuk Baths are about 4 hrs. 
drive from Visp. 

Leukerbad to the Rhone Vcdley 
and Simplon Road. 

There are two ways :— a. Carr.-road to 
Leuk ; b. Mule-path to Sierre. 

a. Carriage-road to Leulc crosses 
the Dala, and follows the course 
of the valley through a fine 
gorge. It descends in zigzags, 
and beyond Indenville recrosses 
the river by a lofty bridge, 420 ft. 
above the torrent, opposite Al- 
binen. 

A slow omnibus goes from the Baths 
to Leuk, Susten, and Sion. 





Z 

or 
O 

z 
h 

z 

LU 

cc 

DC 

O 
h 



171 Bte. 38. — TUBTMAN to EANDEBSTJEG. 172 



7 m. Leuk (Fr. Lb'eche) {Inn, Cou- 
ronne), a walled and castellated 
town of 1 12 3 Inhab., on the rt. 
bank of the Ehone, near its junc- 
tion with the Dala. A covered 
bridge over the Ehone connects 
it with Susten on the Simplon 
road (Ete. 59). (Inn : H. de la 
Souste.) Above it are the ruins 
of two castles, destroyed by the 
Valaisans in 141 4. It is about 
12 m. from Visp, 6 in. from Sierre. 

b. Mule-path to Sierre, 3 J hrs., 
12 m. Beyond Inden a bridle-path 
turns rt., and, traversing 2 short 
tunnels in the rock, at the angle 
of the valley emerges upon pas- 
turages above the village Varen, 
commanding fine views. It is a 
short cut for those who wish to 
descend the valley of the Ehone. 

A rough and steep descent 
leads past the hamlet of Salgetsch 
in 1 J nr., to 

Sierre, on the Simplon road 
(Ete. 59 )e 



Rte. 38. — TURTMAN and 

KIPPEL to KANBERSTEG, by 

the L6TSCH PASS. 

TUETMANto Hrs. 
Char-road to Kippel ... 3 
Foot-path to Kandersteg. . 8 

This pass was formerly in much 
use, but since the construction of 
the Gemmi, more than a century 
ago, the old mule-path has been 
left to fall into decay, and an ex- 
tension of the glaciers has de- 
stroyed part of it. 

The Lotschthal has been ne- 
glected by Alpine travellers till 
lately, and no inn has yet been 
opened, but it abounds in fine 
scenery, and leads to interesting 
passes (Etes. 35, 60). 



Turtman (Ete. 59). 

Bridge over the Ehone, and 2 

thence to 

Gampel (Inn, homely), at the 1 
mouth of the narrow Lotschthal, 
rising, not in terraces, but with 
a rapid and continuous ascent. 
Ascent steep up the 1. bank of 
the Lonza, now mastered by 
a good road. Views over the 
Ehone. The path next enters a 
gorge. 

[1 hr. from Gampel there is a 
fall, not visible from the road, 
of no great height, but large 
volume.] 

Koppigstein Ch., constantly 4 
swept away by avalanches. The 
Lonza is crossed to its rt. bank. 
A group of cottages soon appears 
in a lovely scene of meadow, 
wood, and rock, overhung by 
superb peaks, after which the 
character of the valley is more 
cheerful. 

Ferden. The path turns 1 
sharply to the E. At the angle, 
* View along both branches of the 
valley ; the upper portion is wider 
and longer than that which has 
been passed, extending to the 
great Lotscli gletscher, a branch of 
the sea of ice around the Jung- 
frau, overhung by the Lauter- 
brunn Breithorn on one side, and 
the Schienhorn, an offset of the 
Aletschhorn, on the other ; while 
on the S. the Nesthorn and other 
very lofty mtns. rise steeply in icy 
peaks. The Cure's house at 

Kippel affords poor accom-f 
modation, but is the best to be 
had in the valley. Joseph Ap- 
pener is a good guide. The Cure 
was an active mountaineer, but 
is now an old man. Few or none 
of the people can speak anything 
but their own German patois. 



173 



Ute. 39.—PASS 



of the BAWYL. 



174 



Thence through magnificent larch 
woods. 

Ijhr. Platten, where accommoda- 
tion, said to be nearly equal to 
that of Kippel, is to be had at the 
house of the Cure; after which, 
over pastures, bare stony slopes, 
and beds of snow. 

l}hr. Col, 8796 ft., overhung by the 
Balm-horn, which forms the E. 
end of the Artels group. View 
from the summit decidedly supe- 
rior to that from the Gemmi, or 
any of the passes over the chain 
to the E. of it. [By giving 2 or 
3 hrs. more to the excursion, a 
high peak to the E., called the 
Hoch-horn, may ; be ascended. It 
is 1 J hr. from the Col, chiefly 
over ice. Steep slopes are crossed, 
whence the eye plunges down 
right into the Gasterenthal, 5000 
to 6000 ft. beneath. A singular 
scene occurs in passing round a 
steeple of rock, rising out of the 
ice, with a pool of clear blue 
water at its foot. Between it 
and the peak lies a narrow isthmus 
of ice, sloping steeply down on 
either side; after passing this, 
the icy shoulder of the mountain 
is wound round, with empty space 
on two sides ; and then the last 
ascent, up a sharp pile of stones, 
takes 1 5 min. * View S. and S. W., 
Monte Eosa, the Matterhorn, and 
Mont Blanc towering far above 
nearer mountains, are the leading- 
objects. E. the Tschingel-horn 
and other points of the chain 
extend to the Jungfrau and the 
Aletschorner. W. is a sea of 
lower mountains towards the Sim- 
menthal, and an extensive view 
over the Bernese lowlands. Re- 
tracing the course for a good way, 
the descent leads over bare rocks 
and beds of snow to the lower 
part of the Balmgletscher, and 



reaches (2 hrs. from the Hoch- 
horn) the point where the direct 
route across the Lotschberg quits 
the glacier, after lying across it 
for 1 J to 2 m.] 

Descent to the Gasterenthal 
over some long slopes of snow, 
giving opportunity for a glissade, 

Glacier is reached, which f hr. 
now covers the old track; for 
nearly an hour's walk keep to its 
1. or W. side. 

Im Selden chalets (or Gasteren- 1 J hr. 
dorf) (Rte. 35). (Milk and cheese 
and miserable accommodation may 
be had on an emergency.) *View 
of the surrounding peaks and of 
the Kander glacier. The lower 
end of the Gasterenthal is crowded 
with huge blocks, some of them 
probably brought down by ava- 
lanches, while others have been 
transported by ice from the peaks 
at the head of the valley. 

Kandersteg (Bte. 37). 2 J hrs. 



Rte. 39. — PASS of the 
RAWYL. —-THUN to SIGN, or 
SIERRE. 

THUN to 

An der Lenk .... 36 miles. 
Summit of pass ... 4J- hrs. 
Sion 6i hrs. 

The bridle-pass of the Bawyl 
begins at An der Lenk, at the N. 
foot of the pass (a good halting- 
place, 36 m. from Thun). It is 
fully 10 hrs. to Sion, or 11 hrs. to 
Sierre. Nothing but a little milk 
is to be had between An der 
Lenk and Sion, therefore pro- 
visions should be taken. The 
scenery on both sides of the pass 
resembles that on the S. side of 
the Gemmi, 



175 



Rte. 39.— PASS 



of the BAWYL. 



176 



lord speaks English ; Bar). 
Strong sulphureous springs, 
temp. 48 0 Fahr. ; much used by 
the Swiss. Beautifully situated 
near the base of the WMstrubel 
(10,716 Eng. ft.). 

Excursions. — The Simmen K. 
rises 6 m. (char-road halfway) 
above An der Lenk, at the foot 
of the glacier of Kazliberg, from 
the Sieben Brunnen. Grand 
seenery. Between here and An 
der Lenk the river forms several 
cascades. 

An interesting account of 
glacier excursions about An der 
Lenk, including 2 ascents of the 
Wildstrubel, and a passage over 
the glaciers between this and the 
Gemmi pass, has been given by 
Mr. HinchlifT in * Peaks, Passes, 
and Glaciers.' 

The rte. of the Rawyl is pass- 
able for a char for about 3 m. 
Then, instead of proceeding to- 
wards the source of the Simmen, 
it ascends the 1. bank of its tri- 
butary the Iffigenbach ; and the 
gorge of that torrent, flanked by 
precipices, is grand. Beware of 
losing time by crossing a tempt- 
ing bridge, a little below a pic- 
turesque waterfall. 



There are 3 routes to the village of An 
der Lenk from Thun : — a. by following 
the Upper Simmenthal, along which there 
is a good char-road — 1». by the Diemtigen 
Thai and the pass of the Grimmi, a route 
accessible only to pedestrians— c. by Fru- 
tigen, the Engstligen Thai, and Adelboden. 
The scenery by b is inferior ; and there is 
little saving of time. From Interlaken, 
c is decidedly shortest. 

a. Thun, the road from, up the 
Simmenthal, is described Kte. 42 
as far as 

26 m. Zweisimmen, to which there 
is a diligence twice daily. Thence 
a char-road diverges to the 1. up 
the Ober Simmenthal to 

10 m. An der Lenk. 

b. From TJiun the rte. by the 
Diemtigen Thai leads up the Sim- 
menthal for 10 m. to 

3ihrs. Lattenbach. It crosses the 
stream of the Chivel, and follows 
its 1. bank through Diemtigen and 
Narrenbach, then recrosses it to 

4 hrs. Thiermatten (Inn). The path 
mounts the valley by the rt. bank. 
1 m. beyond this it again passes 
the stream, and, leaving it on the 
1., gradually ascends the pass. 

3 hrs. Summit of Grimm i ( 5 5 80 ft. ?). 
Descending through the 'Fennel 
Thai (a fertile valley, only 6 m. 
long), it reaches 

2 hrs. Matt en, in the Upper Simmen- 
thal, on the char-road leading 
from Zweisimmen to 

1 J hr. An der Lenk. 

c. The rte. by the Engstligen 
Thai quits the road of the Gemmi 
at Frutigen (Bte. 37). Hence a 
walk of 4J hrs. to Adelboden 
(small Inn near the ch.). By the 
low pass of the Hahnenmoos, 3 hrs. 
walk to An der Lenh. 

An der Lenk (3309 ft.) — (Inns : 
■ Bad Hohliebe, excellent; land- 



Ifligen, a group of farm- 2 hrs. 
houses (one of which is a toler- 
able Inn), at the N. base of the 
Kawyl, near which the Iffigen- 
bach makes a fine fall. 

A series of zigzags mounts the 
steep side of the mountain above 
Iffigen. The path has been 
newly constructed, and workmen 
keep it in repair. The small cas- 
cades that used to drip on the 
path from the rocks above have 
been diverted, and the way is now 
so broad that timid persons will 
feel no uneasiness. From the 
brow of the precipice, looking 



177 



Rte. 40. — LENK to G8TEIG. 



178 



N., view over the valley of An cler 
Lenk, and the mtns. of the Sim- 
menthal covered with fine pas- 
tures and farmhouses. Crossing a 
bed of snow, the path leads up to 

2Jhrs. The summit (7960 feet), 
marked by a cross. It is 2 m. 
broad, covered with shattered 
slate, bare of vegetation. When 
clouds lie on the pass, a stranger 
cannot trace the path, which is 
tedious from the number of gullies, 

, and the alternately crumbling and 
slippery nature of the soil, con- 
sisting at one time of clay-slate, 
at another of clay. A small lake is 
reached before the traveller gains 

I hr. Brow of the S. face of the mtn., 
consisting of precipices like those 
on the N. face. * View of the mtns. 
S. of the Ehone, especially of the 
Matterhorn and its glaciers, is 
sublime. 

Descent by a good zigzag path 
down the cliffs to 

ljhr. Rawin chalets, close to which 
two large bodies of water burst, 
one on either hand from the cliffs, 
forming fine falls. That on the 
rt. has a singular appearance, 
rushing out of a black cleft in 
the face of a broad cliff, in 5 or 6 
distinct columns, and afterwards 
forming a fine wild tumble of 
foaming water. Though appa- 
rently clear when issuing from 
the rock, it has no sooner touched 
the ground than it becomes a 
river of liquid mud, a large por- 
tion of which is separated and 
conducted ingeniously for some 
miles along the face of the mtn., 
and at one part alongside a per- 
pendicular cliff, to fertilise the 
meadows near Ayent. 

Two paths branch off at the chalets of 
Rawin :— a. in si hrs. to Sierre ; b. on the 
rt. bank of the stream, through Ayent to 
Sion in 4 ! hrs. 



a. to Sierre. Very "fatiguing, 
owing to frequent ascents and 
descents. 

0. to Sion. For nearly half an 
hour from Eawin the path runs 
nearly on a level : it next rises 
for some distance to turn a rocky 
barrier, and then descends through 
fir forests on Ayent. [Foot pas- 
sengers can avoid this ascent by 
following the bank of the conduit 
before mentioned, which saves 
nearly 1 hr. The difficult part 
takes 10 min. or \ hr. to traverse. 
The only way of passing it is 
along trees supported by cross 
bars against the face, of high 
rocks, above the stream. The 
scene is grand. The trees are 
placed singly above the bed of the 
watercourse, and are not very 
firmly secured. This short cut 
should not. be attempted by per- 
sons in the least liable to nerv- 
ousness.] 

The regular road lies amidst 
forests of fir. It unites with the 
footpath before reaching 

Ayent (accommodation at the 3 
Cure's). Past the hamlet of 
Grimseln to 

Sion (Ete. 56) Ely. -Stat. 1 

At Sion, experienced guides and mules 
may be obtained for the ascent of the 
Bawyl (called Ravdue in the patois of 
the Valais). 



Rte. 40. — LENK to LAUENEN 
by the TRUTTLISBERCr. — 
LAUENEN to GSTEIG by the 
CHRINEN. 

An der Lenk (Rte. 30). Be- 
yond its ch. the path traverses 
meadows and groves. View of 
the magnificent glaciers of the 



179 



Rte. 41. — SAANEN to SION—SANETSCH. 



180 



AVildstriibel and the "WilcUiom. 
Ascend the N. side of the valley. 
2 J hrs. Ober Staffel, an elevated pas- 
ture. 

lhr. Triittlisberg Pass*(? 5900 ft.), 
between the Dauben and the 
Stublen. 
Descent is steep. 
1 J hr. Lauenen ( Inn : Bar ; rough, 
but not uncomfortable). [To 
Saanen, 2 hrs. (Ete. 42), by a 
good char-road, through pretty 
scenery.] Over the Chrinen pass 
(5000 ft. ?) to, 

2 hrs. Gsteig (Fr. Chatelet). (Inn: 
Hirsch, duty ; but not so bad as 
it looks.) Kte. 41. 



Rte. 41.— PASS of the SAK- 
ETSCH.— SAANEK to SIGN". 

SAANEN to 

Gsteig 10 miles. 

Summit of pass . 3* hrs. 
Sion 5 hrs. 

Char from Saanen to Gsteig, 
10 m. Thence a steep and tedious 
bridle-pass of 9 hrs. to Sion. 

Saanen (or Gessonay). (Rte. 42.) 
2 m. Staad; the path turns S. by 
the valley of the Saane, the upper 
end of which is called Gsteig 
Thai, to 

8 m. Gsteig (Fr. Chatelet) (Inn, 
Bar, tolerable), Rte. 43, the highest 
village in the valley, close under 
the Mittaghorn. 

The pass rises immediately 
from Gsteig, and resembles the 
pass of the Gemini. 

f hr. Waterfall of the Saane clears 
the face of the rock by at least 
too ft. Iris in the evening. The 
path follows the Saane to its 
source. View back on Gsteig. 
After a climb of 



Grassy plain, surrounded with 2 hrs. 
abrupt rocky mountains, it leads 
by a gentle ascent to 

Summit, 7365 ft., a rocky, lhr. 
solitary plain 3 or 4 m. long, called 
Kreutzboden, barely relieved by a 
few patches of vegetation. W. 
the Sans Fleuron glacier descends 
on it from the Oldenliorn .{as- 
cended in 1857 by Mr. Hinchhff 
and Mr. Bradshaw Smith). The 
pass itself is not grand, but view 
of the great chain of the Alps 
from Mt. Velan to the neighbour- 
hood of the Matterhorn. The 
whole of the straight, steep Val 
d'Erin from the Valais, and the 
glacier of Ferpecle, are in front. 
But neither the Matterhorn nor 
any part of the Weisshorn, Roth- 
horn, or Monte Rosa is visible. 

Descent is steep, but grassy 
down to the pine-forests, through 
which the road to Sion is tedious, 
but not unpleasing. 

Morge river is crossed, andf hr. 
after 4 m. of bad winding road, 
passing a chalet, is again crossed 
by the 

Pont Neuf, a substantial stone 1J hr. 
foot-bridge, 200 ft. above the 
black stream. View. Black slate 
rocks rise 2500 ft. on the E. 
Portions have been detached and 
stand upright, each the height of 
a small mountain. A white hori- 
zontal line on the face of the rocks 
(rt.) is the wall of a watercourse 
constructed at the sole expense of 
a farmer's wife to supply her na- 
tive village with water for irriga- 
tion, of which she liad felt the 
want in her lifetime, and for 
which she left the whole of her 
fortune at her death. Near the 
mouth of the Morge is a ruined 
castle, and view over the valley 
of the Rhone. The only village is 



181 Rte. 42. — THTJN to VEVA Y— SIMMENTHAL. 182 



I ljhr. Chandolin (Inn humble, good 
wine), the first place from Gsteig 

j where food can be procured. Here 
and at Saviese are many narrow 
lanes, through which the way is 
intricate to find. View during 
descent of the 3 castles of 

Sion (Rte. 56) (Inn: Poste). 

(Time from Sion: walking to Chan- 
I dolin, 1 hr. ; to summit of pass, 4 hrs. ; to 
Gsteig, 3i hrs.) 

! 

1 

I Rte. 4 2, -THUN to VEVAY, 
by the SIMMENTHAL ; SAA- 
NEN, CHATEAU D'OEX, and 
GRTJYERES : — PASS of the 

j DENT DE JAMAN. 



THUN to 


M. 




M. 


AVeissenburg . 


14 


Chateau d'Oex . 


1 


Zweisimmen . 


II 


Montbovon 


7 


Saanen (Gesse 




Bulle . . . 


10 


nay) . . . 


9 


Vevay . . . 


22 


An excellent 


carriage-road of 79 miles 



has been made through the Simmenthal, 
but it has fallen into disuse owing to the 
rly. communication by Berne. (Rte. 45.) 
The inns and the means of travelling are 
not good. A diligence with 9 seats starts 
every morning from Thun, and reaches 
Saanan (Fr. Gessenay) in 9 hrs. A lighter 
vehicle with only 6 places leaves Saanen 
in the morning, and reaches Vevay in 
10 hrs. Those who can walk or ride will 
prefer to reach Vevay from CMteau d'Oex, 
or Montbovon (Rte. 43). 

The Simmenthal is a pastoral 
valley abounding in rich cul- 
tivation, orchards and gardens, 
! meadows reaching to the 'tops of 
the hills, with houses along the 
banks of the river, varied with fir 
forests, .rocky gorges, and open 
basins. 

From Thun, by Etc. 37, turn 
off at the Tower of Strattlingen, 
between, 1. Niesen, and rt. 
Stockhorn, to 

I Pm, Erlenbach. (Lm: Krone). 



From the parsonage Latrobe 
started on those Alpine expedi- 
tions which he has described in 
so admirable a manner in his 
■ Alpenstock/ The Stockhorn 
[3 hrs. ascent] rises almost im- 
mediately behind Erlenbach. 

"Weissenburg (Inn : Post). 4 J ni. 
[Mules or chairs with bearers 
may be hired to the Sulphur Baths 
of Weissenburg, 2 J m. Ascent 
to the New Baths (well kept), at 
the mouth of a picturesque de- 
file, up which the path winds 
until it narrows into a chasm, to 
the Old Bath-house, singularly 
situated in its recesses, between 
the torrent Biintschi and the 
rocks, leaving barely space for 
the house and baths. It is 
now occupied by peasants. The 
scenery around is highly pic- 
turesque, but inaccessible to all 
but stout climbers. The source 
is J m. higher up in the gorge, 
and the water, 82 0 Fahr., is 
conveyed in wooden pipes along 
the face of the precipice. The 
peasants have formed a pathway 
out of the ravine to the upper 
pastures, by cutting notches hi 
the face of the rock, and partly 
by attaching ladders to it. By 
this means they scale a precipice 
between . 200 and 300 ft. high. 
There is a short cut direct from 
the baths to Oberwyl, on the high 
road.] 

The Simmeneeh is a defile 
formed by 2 projecting rocks, 
between which the road passes to 

Boltigen (2600ft.) (Inn: Bar). 5 J m. 
Trout-fishing. Old castle of 
Simmeneeh to the N. The road 
is carried round the ruined castle 
of Laubech. Through the gorge 
of Laubeclc, fine scenery. 

Reidenbach. Coal-mines nearl m. 
here. [Two paths lead from 



183 



Rte. 42.—THUN to VEVAY. 



184 



Reidenbach to Butte, each of 
8 hrs. — a. by the Klus, steep and 
mountainous ; b. by Badermoos, 
through lower country and pine 
forests. Either path shortens the 
journey to Bulle by 4 hrs,] The 
river is crossed 3 times before 
reaching 

5 m. Zweisimmen (Inns : Lion, best ; 
none good). Chief place in the 
valley ; 2000 Inhab. ; of old 
brown and red wooden houses, 
at the junction of the great 
and lesser Simmen. Castle of 
Blankenburg is above it. Until 
the democratic revolutions in can- 
ton Berne, it was the residence of 
the landvogt, who now occupies 
his own humble farm-house be- 
side it. It is still the seat of the 
government, and the prison. [A 
char-road 1. runs hence past 3 m. 
St. Stephan (Inn : Alter Schweit- 
zer), to 2 J m. Matt en, and 3 J m. 
to An der Lenk {see Rte. 39).] 

The road now quits the Sim- 
menthal by a steep ascent, in 
which peaks of limestone are 
interspersed with forests of pine, 
and, turning S.W. crosses the 
Saanen-Moser, an elevated pas- 
ture-land, till it descends upon 

9 m. Saanen (Fr. Gessenay) ( Inns : 
Grosslandhaus ; H. de Kranich ; 
*l'Ours), the principal place in 
the Upper Saane (Sarine), whose 
3629 Inhab. are chiefly cattle- 
owners, or occupied in their dairies, 
manufacturing Gruyeres cheese. 
A kind of cheese peculiar to the 
valley, too delicate to bear ex- 
portation, is called Fotschari-k'ase. 
[Ascent of the Sanetsch Pass 
( lite. 41). Ascent of the Col de 
Pillon into the romantic Val des 
Ormonds (Ete 43) and Les 
Diablerets.] 

The road beyond is hilly ; be- 
low Saanen we pass into canton 



Vaud. German is soon exchanged 
for a French patois in the lower 
portion of the valley, which is 
called Pays d'en Jiaut Romand. 
The first Vaudois village is • 

Rougemont (Germ. Rothberg) 2 J n 
{Inn: Kreutz). Its chateau was 
a convent. 

Chateau d'Oex (Oesch) (Inns ; 4 J m 
rOurs ; Maison de Ville). Vill. : 
.2300 Inhab., 3030 ft., rebuilt after , 

3 conflagrations. The chateau, 
after which it is named, is re- 
placed by a church. The road 
next crosses the Saane to 

Moulins [path into the Val des 1J m 
Ormonds (Ete. 43)]. 

Bridge, rt., not crossed by our 3.1 n 
road. 

[Across bridge to Bossiniere 
pension. Highly praised.] 

The pass of the Tine between 
grand rocks and pines leads to 

Montbovon (Bubenberg) (Inn : 4 m] 
Kreutz), which Byron calls " a 
pretty scraggy village, with a wild 
river and a wooden bridge :" it is 
situated in canton Freiburg. 

[Horse-path, 5 hrs. to Yevay, 
over the interesting Col deJaman 
(Jommen Pass), 4872 ft., descend- 
ing upon the Lake of Geneva 
above Montreux. 

A few horses are kept at Montbovon I 
for hire. It is better to order them from 
Yevay the day before. 

The path passes by the Pont | 
de Hongrin to the inn at Allieres. 

The * View from the Col com- 
mands great part of the lake, but 
to see the Oberland range you 
must climb the Bent itself, 1 hr. 
from the Col, and there is a con- 1 
siderably better vieAv from the i 
adjacent Merdasson, S. of the 
Dent. From the Col to Vevay is 

4 hrs. walk. After reaching the 

I Col and descending about J hr, j 



185 



Bte. 4:2.—THUN to VEVAY. 



186 



the path divides, the rt. leading 
to Vevay, the 1. to Montreux. 
This pass is inferior in striking 
views to the Col de Pillon, though 
Byron calls it " beantiful as a 
dream. "3 

The carriage-road from Mont- 
bovon to Vevay makes a great 
detour, passing round the base of 
the Moleson (65 78 ft.), the highest 
mtn. in canton Freiburg, under 
the hills crowned by the castle 
and town of 

7 m. Gruyeres (German, Greyerz) 
(Inns ; said not to be good). This 
mouldering little town of 375 
Inhab. is picturesque from its 
position on the face of a hill, the 
top of which is crowned -by the 
Castle, very well preserved. Its 
owners were the Counts of Gruy- 
eres, down to 1 5 5 4, when the fami ly 
became bankrupt, and the credi- 
tors sold the lordship to Berne. 
The castle has been bought by M. 
Eory, who has repaired it with 
taste. Torture chamber at the 
top of the stairs contained the 
rack which had been used within 
the present century. 

The language spoken by the 
people is a dialect of Romansch 
(called, in German, Gruverin- 
Welsch), and is thought to prove 
their descent from the Burgun- 
dians. The district is also famous 
for its cheeses, of which there are 
large depots in the town. 

La Tour de Treme was a watch- 
tower of the Counts of Gruyeres. 

[A secluded rte. leads from 
Thun to Gruyeres as follows : 
2 J hrs. Watterwyl. — 2 hrs. Baths 
of Gurnigel. — 2§ hrs. Schwef el- 
bad. — 4 hrs. Schwarz See or Lake 
of Omeinaz. — 2 J hrs. Valsainte. 
— 3 hrs. Gruyeres. The Baths of 
Gurnigel, 3782 ft., are much fre- 
quented by the Bernese. It is 



situated in a high and wooded 
• country. Schivefelbad, or Baths of 
Ganterist, is a decaying establish- 
ment in a treeless tract. Lake of 
Omeinaz is deservedly called the 
Schivarzee. Hospitable quarters 
at a neglected bathing establish- 
ment on its W. shore. The sur- 
rounding landscape is charming. 
The Valsainte is a monastery in a 
cheerful valley.] 

Bulle (Boll)— (Inns : ChevalS m. 
Blanc ; Maison de Ville) — an 
industrious town of 2000 Inhab. 
It is the chief depot for Gruyere 
cheese. If the ages inscribed on 
the tombstones form any test, it 
must be one of the healthiest 
places in the world. There is a 
curious old chateau, but the town 
is modern, having been burnt in 
1805. The bise or N.E. wind 
blows keenly over the plateau. 

It is 18 m. from Freiburg, and the same 
from Vevay. A diligence runs daily be- 
tween those two towns by Bulle. 

[From Bulle or Gruyeres, ascent 
of the Moleson, 6578 ft. * View. ] 

Our course now turns S. along 
the high road between these two 
places, skirting the W. base of 
the Moleson to 

Chatel St. Denis (Kastels)— 11 m. 
( Inn : Maison de Ville) — a pic- 
turesque village with an elevated 
Castle on the 1. bank of the Ve- 
veyse. J m. S. of it the road 
enters canton Vaud. Thence an 
excellent road, carried by easy 
zigzags down the steep hill to- 
wards the Lake of Geneva. The 
View from this road is nearly as 
fine as from the Jaman, so that 
there is no reason to regret the 
enormous bends which it makes, 
though they lengthen the journey 
by several miles. 

Vevay (me. 55). 11 m. 



187 Bte. 43.— CHATEAU D'OEX to AIGLE or BEX. 188 



Rte. 43.— CHATEAU D'OEX 
to AIGLE or BEX, by the 
VALLEY DES ORMONDS. 

MOULINSto Eng.m. 

Eng. in. Sepey ... 2 
Comballas . 8 Aigle . . . 6£ 

A bridle-path (carr.-road in progress) 
diverges to the 1. from the high road (Rte. 
42) at 3Ioulins, near Chateau d' Oex, and 
leads, in 5 hrs., by Comballaz to Sepey 
(where there is a good carr.-road by a 
long incline, 6£ m. to Aigle). 

From Moulins (3257 ft.) the 
bridle-path mounts steeply at 
. first. Thenceforward by a pretty 
level as far as char-road. 

3 m. Bridge, it. Here our path 
leaves the direct road, turns 
sharply to the ri, crosses the 
bridge, and leads up a tributary 
valley. [The direct road passes 
through V. cVEtivaz, whence easy 
mountain-paths lead into the Or- 
mond dessus.] 

ljm. Lecherette, rt. } a scattered 
village (where milk and wine can 
be had ) ■ it is skirted, not passed 
through. 

im. Another stream is crossed; 
then 

1 m. Les Mosses (5 93 5 ft.), a strag- 
gling viU. on elevated meadows. 
\Lac Lioson (6135 ft.) is well 
worth a visit. Turning 1. from 
Les Mosses, up the tributary 
valley, it may be reached in 1 hr. 
Ascend from it, in J hr., Mt. 
Chausse (7798 ft.), for the sake 
of its view over the Diablerets, 
Dent du Midi, and Lac Leman. 
Hence, by a new road and amid 
pine forests, rushing cascades, 
valleys, and mountains, the tra- 
veller passes through the pic- 
turesque valley of Les Ormonds, 
and arrives at Sepey.] 



Junction of roads. [The 1. If m. 

branch crosses the stream, and 
takes, in 5 j m., to Plans des Isles 
(see below).] Our way is to the 
rt., and leads to 

Comballaz, a rustic but com- J m. 
fortable Inn and Pension (4475 
ft.), charge 5 fr. a day ; much fre- 
quented in summer for its moun- 
tain air and sulphureous mineral 
spring. It is seldom free from 
snow before the end of June. 
Not much view from the p]ace, 
though many pretty excursions. 

Sepey (3 704 ft.) ( Inn : l'Etoile, 2 m. j 
fair, is one of 3 pensions of a homely 
kind, moderate in price as well 
as in accommodation, frequented 
by Swiss from June to the end of 
August.) It is a primitive town. 
The houses are entirely composed 
of wood ; most of them are 
carved, and covered with verses 
and texts from the Bible. The 
pasturages in this valley are cele- 
brated, and the cheese, cream, 
and butter of Les Ormonds (" Or- 
mond Dessus " above Sepey, and 
" Dessous " below it) equal any in 
the canton. 



Saanen to Sepey (a), by Col de 
Pillon, 10 J to 11 J hrs. drive. 
SAANEN to 

Gsteig 8£ miles. 

Col de Pillon .... 

H. Diablerets . . . . 3$ hrs. 

Sepey 73- miles. 

Aigle 6* miles. 

Sepey may also be reached 
conveniently from Rte. 42 by 
turning off at Saanen, and taking 
the carriage and post-road (opened 
1864) by 

Gsteig (Fr. Chatelet). Thence 8 £ m.[ % 
over the Col de Pillon (4778 ft. = 
i\ hrs.), to 

Plan des Isles {Pension and 3 J hi^ - 
Inn, H. des Diablerets, much fre- 
quented), on a level tract in the 



189 



Bte. 43.— SAANEN— COL DE PILL ON. 



190 



valley of the Ormond dessus. 
| Ascent of the Oldenhom, 7 or 8 
j hrs. Guide 10 or 12 frs. 
1 J m. Vers 1'Eglise (Pension andlnn: 
j Cerf; small, but fair), chief place 

of the district of Ormond dessus : 
j thence to 

j 6 m. Sepey. Junction of 2 Ormonds. 

{Head of the V. Ormond dessus 
I is S. of the road over the Col de 
j Pillon. It is surrounded by a 
j precipitous range of limestone 
rocks, shaped like a horseshoe, 
i! not unlike the Cirque of Gavar- 
nie, in the Pyrenees, over which 
dash waterfalls, while behind 
i| rise the snow and peaks of the 
Diablerets. This scene is well 
worth a visit. By the Col de la 
I Croix the traveller may descend 
I by Grion to Bex, a station on the 
Sion Ely.] 

Saanen to Sepey. (b.) 
SAANEN to 

Feutersvey 6 miles. 

H. des Diablerets ... 4 hrs. 

Sepey 74- miles. 

Aigle 6i miles. 

Another way of reaching Sepey 
is to start fram Saanen as above, 
but to leave the road at 
6 m. Feutersvey (f m. after the 
bridge over the stream) ; thence 
to turn rt. up the valley, and 
make for 

j 4 m. Lake Amen (5072 ft.). Food 
i may be had at the chalets by its 
: side, but the people are extor- 
f tionate. The lake is beautifully 
; placed within wooded slopes and 
rocky shores. Thence the pedes- 
1 Man may find the way for him- 
self over the hills to 
2} hrs. H. des Diablerets (see above), 
which lies (4 m. in a direct line) 
to the S.W., and so to 

j7Jm. Sepey. 



Sepey to Aigle. The descent is 
made in any carriage in 1 hr., 
the ascent in 2J hrs. by a road 
remarkable for its beauty of con- 
struction. It was commenced by 
the Vaudois Government in 1836 
to connect the Simplon with Thun, 
Interlaken, and the German can- 
tons by Chateau d'Oex ; but owing 
to the great cost in its formation, 
and the constant needful repairs 
from snow and other causes, it 
was not completed over the Col 
until 1864. The road is wide, 
and its gradual and easy descent 
around the sides of a seemingly 
impracticable mountain, to the 
depth of 2400 ft., reflects high 
credit on the engineer, M. Pi- 
chaucl, a Vaudois. At the bot- 
tom of the valley the Grande Eau 
rushes in a series of cascades. In 
the distance, from near Aigle, view 
of the snowy tops of the Dent du 
Midi, in contrast to the dark 
forests of the Ormonds. The grey 
head of the Dent du Chamossaiie 
rises N. above the pasturages. 

Aigle (1 3 74 ft.) (Inns : Victoria, 6 \ m. 
very good ; Beau Site), a station 
on the Sion Ely. It is the best 
starting-point for exploring the 
Valley des Ormonds. There are 
numerous pretty paths among 
these mountains. (See Simplon, 
Kte. 56.) 

Sepey to Bex or Ollon. 

SEPEY to Hrs. 
Chalet Bretaye . . . 3 
Chalet Villard . . . 1* 
. Bex 2 

Cross the Grande Eau by the 

Bridge, to the S.E., below 1 m. 
Sepey. Ascend the opposite slopes 
to the Forclaz ; then to a cascade 
and the 

Lac des Chalets (5876 ft.)2|hrs. 
(this lake is near two others of 



191 Me. 45.— BERNE to LAUSANNE— FEEIBUBG. 192 



less note), and by fine forests. 
The Chalets of Bretaye, imme- 
diately above it, afford cream and 
milk. [Ascent of the Ghamossa ire, 
•6932 ft. ; fine panorama.y 

Descent to 

2 hrs. Chesieres ( 4002 ft.), a village, 
where the Chalet of the brothers 
Amignet is always crowded by 
visitors, as well as the neighbour- 
ing Clidlet Yillard (Pension, good), 
in the face of the finest Alps of 
Savoy. 

2 hrs. Bex. 

Sheet ]STo. xvii. of the Swiss Govern- 
ment map is A ery valuable to those who 
make excursions in this district. 



Rte. 45. — BERNE to LAU- 
SANNE (and VEVAY) by 
FREIBURG. Rail. 

BERNE to Eng. m. 

Freiburg ' 20 

Lausanne 30 

Railway — to Freiburg in i| hr ; to 
Chexbres (for Yevay) in 3-3? hrs. ; to 
Lausanne in 3^-4 hrs. 3 trains daily. 

Take L side of rly. carriage. 

Quitting Berne, the chain of 
Bernese Alps and mtns. of the 
Simmenthal appear. 

3 m. Biimplitz Stat The Sense, 
which divides canton Berne from 
Freiburg, is crossed. 

G m. Flamatt Stat. 

[Diligence, by Neueneck, twice 
a day, 5 m., to Lauren (Inn: 
Hirsck) on the Sense. Laupen is 
famous for the battle in which the 
Swiss, under Rudolph, of Erlach, 
defeated the mailed chivalry of 
Burgundy and Suabia, 1339. 



Tower, b. 1853, in commemo- 
ration.] 

Balliswyl Stat. Great viaduct 9i 
across the Saarine, 990 ft. long, 
260 ft. above the river, made of 
3000 tons of cast-iron. 

On entering canton Freiburg 
the gauze wings and dark dress 
of the female peasantry of Berne 
are exchanged for broad-brimmed, 
flapping straw hats and red petti- 
coats ; while the numerous crosses 
at the roadside announce a Ro- 
man Catholic canton. 

Skirting the old walls we reach 

Freiburg Stat, W. of the town, 2 1 
near the Jesuits' College. (Inns : 
Z'ahiinger Hof, close to the bridge, 
very good. Yiew of the two 
bridges from the platform behind. 
H. des Merciers or Marchands, 
near the ch., good and cheaper; 
*H. de Fribourg, excellent in all 
respects, zealous landlord.) 

This town (10,454 Inhab., 
chiefly Rom. Cath.), the capital 
of canton Freiburg, is on a pro- 
montory formed by the windings 
of the Saarine (Saane). Many of 
the houses stand on the edge of 
the precipice over the river, and 
their quaint architecture, the long 
line of embattled walls stretching 
up hill and down dale, varied by 
the chain of feudal watch-towers, 
make the distant view of the town 
at once imposing and highly 
picturesque. 

History. — Freiburg was founded 
in 1 1 75, by Duke Berchthold of 
Zahringen, father of him who 
founded Berne, and was long a 
free town. In 1343 it entered 
into alliance with Berne, but 
afterwards became subject to the 
Dukes of Savoy ; but having 
again become free, was in 148 1 
admitted into the Swiss con- 
federation. 



193 



Mte. 45. — FBEIB tIR 



194 



To see Freiburg, cross Great suspension 
bridge and turn rt. ; cross the suspension 
•bridge over the Gotteron ; pass the Lo- 
re tto Chapel, whence view is very pleasing ; 
descend the valley, and re-enter the town. 

Suspension Bridge, the longest 
of a single curve in the world, 
constructed by the engineer M. 
Ohaley, of Lyons. Its dimensions, 
compared with those of the Menai 
bridge, are as follows : — 

Length. Elevation. Breadth. 
Freyburg 905 ft. 180 ft 22 ft. 11 in. 
Menai . . 580 „ 130 „ 25 „ 

It is supported on 4 cables of 
iron wire, each containing 1056 
wires, the united strength of 
which is capable of supporting 3 
times the weight of 2 rows of 
waggons extending entirely across 
it. The materials of which it is 
composed are almost exclusively 
Swiss ; the iron came from Berne, 
the limestone masonry from the 
quarries of the Jura, the wood- 
work from the forests of Frei- 
burg : the workmen were, with 
the exception of one man, natives 
who had never seen such a bridge 
before. It was completed be- 
tween 1832 and 1838, for 24,000?. 
sterling. It certainly does not 
contain one-tenth of the iron used 
in suspension bridges of English 
construction. It is well seen from 
the platform of the Z'ahringer 
Hof, from the old road below it, 
and from the singular gorge of 
Gotteron. 

Wire Bridge over Gotteron, 640 
ft. long and 317 high, has been 
suspended across the gorge of 
Gotteron on the opposite side of 
the river Saarine. It was finished 
in 1840. The wire cables are at- 
tached immediately to the solid 
rock on each side ; the expense 
of building piers of solid masonry 
from the bottom of the valley 
being thereby saved. It is a wild 

Kp. Sivitz. 



and picturesque valley, and com- 
mands a good view of the longer 
bridge. 

Church of St. Nicholas, chiefly 
in the Flamboyant Gothic style 
(d. 1285-1500). The exterior 
was carefully restored in 1856. 
The portal under the tower 
(d. 1452) is surmounted by a 
quaint bas-relief representing the 
Last Judgment. Its 

* Organ, built by the late Aloys 
Moser, a native of the town, is 
one of the finest instruments in 
Europe. The organist is allowed 
to play on it for the gratification 
of travellers at 8J p.m. (except on 
fete days), adm. 1 fr. Tickets are 
obtained at the hotels. The per- 
formance terminates with the imi- 
tation of a storm, introducing the 
howling of the wind, and the 
roaring of the thunder, inter- 
spersed with a few flashes of 
lightning from ' Der Freischutz.' 
The instrument has 64 stops and 
7800 pipes, some of them 32 ft. 
long. 

Jesuits'' Convent, or college, was 
founded 1584 by Father Canisius, 
ambassador to the Emp. Chas. V., 
member of the Council of Trent, 
who is interred in the church, 
awaiting the honours of canonisa- 
tion, which have been, it is said, 
long promised to his remains. 
Henry IV. of France subscribed 
towards the building of the ch., 
and presented the high altar, little 
aware of his coming fate from the 
dagger of a Jesuit. The college 
was suppressed by a decree of the 
Diet, 1847. ^ ne wa U g of the con- 
vent are lined with bad portraits 
of the generals of the order of 
Jesus, and of the rectors of the 
establishment. 

Pensionnat, or Jesuits' School, 
the most conspicuous building in 
the town, was destined for 400 
H 



195 



Rte. ^.-BERNE to LAUSANNE. 



196 



pupils, many of them children of 
the Kom. Cath. noblesse of France 
and Germany. The school and 
convent have been turned into a 
Cantonal school since 1848 ; but 
the loss of the Jesuits' School is 
felt severely by the tradesmen of 
the town, who were also the owners 
of the building. 

Lime-tree, an ancient trunk, 
planted, according to tradition, on 
the day of the battle of Morat, in 
1476. A young Freiburgois, who 
had fought in the battle, anxious 
to bring home the good news, 
ran the whole way, and arrived on 
this spot so exhausted by fatigue, 
that he fell down, and had barely 
time to cry "Victory!" when he 
expired. The branch of lime 
which he carried in his hand was 
immediately planted, and grew into 
the tree of which this decayed 
trunk, 20 ft. in circumference, is 
the remains. Its branches are 
supported by stone pillars. 

Rue Court Chemin leads from 
this in a long flight of steps down 
to the lower town and river- side ; 
and the roofs of some of its houses 
serve as pavement for the Rue 
Grande Fontaine, which runs 
above it. 

Languages. — The canton Frei- 
burg is divided between the Ger- 
man and French languages. The 
line of separatiou, extending from 
the S.E. corner of the canton to 
the N.W., passes through the town 
of Freiburg, so that in the upper 
town French is spoken, and in the 
lower German. This distinction, 
however, is wearing out. 

Diligences twice daily to Morat, about 
10 m. (Rte. 46), corresponding with the 
steamer to Neuchatel, to JBulle and 
Payerne. 

Freiburg to Lausanne. 

Take l.-hand seats of rly. carriage for 
views over Lake of Geneva. 



Quitting Freiburg Stat, the 
train overlooks (1.) the deep valley 
of the Sense, and Mt. Moleson. 
Nunnery of La Fille de Lieu (1.), 
on nearing 

Komont Stat. {Inns: Cerf; Cou-16 m 
ronne), on a hill above the Glane. 
Castle f . by the Kings of Burgundy 
in the 10th centy. has a round 
Tower of solid masonry of that 
age, worth notice. There is an- 
other round tower, detached, out- 
side the walls. Soon after leaving 
Eomont, a glimpse of Mont Blanc. 
Through a tunnel to 

Vauderens Stat, view ri, of 6 m. 
the Jura range. 

Oron le Ohatel Stat. Castle. 



Chexbres Stat. This is the stat. 12m 
for Vevay. 

[Omnibuses to and from every train; 
fare 1 fr., luggage extra; 15 hr. drive. 
Return (ascent) takes longer. Views."] 

Tunnel. — On emerging, magni- 
ficent view to the 1. Lake of 
Geneva, Valley of Ehone, Dent de 
Jaman, and other mtns. beyond. 

Viaduct of 9 arches over a val- 
ley, through which runs the via- 
duct of the Geneva and Lausanne 
Ely. (W. of Switzerland). The 
2 lines unite before entering 

Lausanne Junct, Stat (in Ete. 6 m. 
55). 



197 Mte. 1Q.—BEBNE to LAUSANNE— MOB AT. 198 



Rte. 46.— BEENE to LAU- 
SANNE, by MORAT and 
AVENCHES (AVENTICTJM). 

— 56J m. 

M. M. 

BERNE to— Payerne . . ni 

Morat . . . 1 8 Lausanne . .27 

Diligence twice a day. 
18 m. Morat — Germ. Murten — {Inns: 
Couronne ; Croix Blanche), an 
ancient and thriving walled town, 
2281 Inhab., with a picturesque 
Castle, on the E. shore of lake of 
Morat. 

Battle of Morat— -The battle of 
1476, which has rendered the name 
of this otherwise insignificant town 
famous, was fought under its walls. 
The Swiss were invading the ter- 
ritories of the Duke of Savoy, of 
which the present Pays de Vaud 
then formed part. They were 
drawn up along the heights to the 
S.W., and nothing could resist 
their impetuous charge. The loss 
of the Burgundians was immense : 
15,000 dead bodies were left on 
the field, and thousands perished 
in the lake. The best view of 
the battle-field and lake is from 
the hill of Munchenwyler \ An 
obelisk at the lake-side marks 
the spot where the bodies of 
the slain were collected by the 
Swiss in an Ossuary, which, 
after standing 300 years, was 
destroyed in 1798 by the soldiers 
of the Burgundian Legion in 
the Kevolutionary French army, 
anxious to efface this record of 
their ancestors' defeat. The ring- 
leaders were the band of the 
75 th half-brigade. 

Steamer to Neuchatel, through the 
Broye, which connects the 2 lakes of 
M. and N. 

' Fortifications of ancient Avcn- 
ticum (see below). The road is 



carried through a breach in them. 
Toiver, 1., though ruined, is the 
most perfect of their remains. 

Avenches — G erm. Wiflisburg 5 m . 
— (Inns: Couronne; Hotel de 
Ville), an ancient walled town of 
1650 Inhab., in the S.W. angle 
of the area once occupied by 
Aventicum, the Roman capital of 
Helvetia. It appears to have 
existed before the time of Csesar. 
Tacitus styles it " Caput gentis." 
It attained the height of its pro- 
sperity, and a Pop. of 60,000, in 
the reign of Vespasian and Titus ; 
and it was destroyed, first by the 
Alemanni, and afterwards by At- 
tila. The ancient walls may be 
traced for 4 m., in some places 
14 ft. thick and 15 ft. high; they 
extended down to the lake, where 
they formed a small mole and 
harbour. The modern town fills 
but one- tenth of the space they 
enclosed — the rest is meadow-land 
or corn-field. 

" By a lone wall, a lonelier column rears 
A grey and grief- worn aspect of old 
days."— Byron. 

Le Cigognier, a Corinthian column, 
37 ft., stands by itself, close to 
the modern town, on the 1. of the 
road. It has for a long time 
served the storks as a pedestal to 
build their nests on, whence its 
name. 

Other Bemains of fallen splen- 
dour, such as the line of city walls, 
broken cornices, inscriptions, dis- 
tinct remains of an amphitheatre, 
and fragments of an aqueduct, 
exist, and are interesting evidence 
of the extent of the largest Roman 
colony in Helvetia. (See Handbk.) 

Payerne — German Peterlin-6 m. 
gen — (Inns : Bar is newer, but 
notbetter, than the Hotel de Ville). 
In the modern Church is the 
tomb of Bertha, queen of Rudolph 
h 2 



199 Bte. 



to NIJUCIIA TEL. 



200 



II. of Burgundy, an antique sar- 
cophagus discovered 1818, now 
covered with a slab of black 
marble. Here is kept the curi- 
osity of the place, Queen Bertha's 
Saddle, a cumbrous construction 
of wood and iron, from which 
it appears that, in her days, it 
was the fashion for ladies to ride 
en cavalier; but Bertha spun as 
she rode, having a distaff planted 
on the pummel. 

12 m. Moudon — (Germ. Milden) — 
Inns : H. de Ville ; H. Victoria, 
not good). This town (150a In- 
hab.) was theBoman Minidunum, 
hence its name. Gothic ch., re- 
sembling the Cathedral of Lau- 
sanne, is worth notice. Above, 
ruins of a Roman Tower. 

Carouge vill. [Boad turns off 
on the 1. to Yevay.] 

The road now includes 7 m. 
long and incessant ascent, and 5 
of descent. Extra horses (Ben- 
fort) are required for the first. 
View from summit and from S. 
slope of Jorat, over Lake of Geneva; 
and, in clear weather, of Mt. Blanc 
and the high Alps. 

15 m. Lausanne (Bte. 55). 



Rte. 48.—BEBNE to NETJ- 

CHATEL. 

31 Eng. m. NeucMtel may be reached 
from Berne: — a. By railway direct to 
Bienne, and round the lake to Neuchatel 
in 2 hrs. (but there is delay owing to 
the trains not corresponding), b. Dil. 
to Morat, 3 hrs., twice a day, and once 
in the night. Steamboat from Morat 
to Neuchatel, ii hr., twice a day. c. Dili- 
gences daily in 5^ hrs. 

c. Diligence Route. 

BERNE to Eng. m. 

Anet (or Inns) ... 21 
Neuchatel . ' . . . 10 

From Berne the road passes by 



Seedorf, a village named from 9 J m. 
the pretty little lake, to 

Aarberg (Bte. 1). [To Rous- 2 J m. 

seaus Isla nd, on the lake of Bienne 
(Bte. 49), proceed by Walperswyl 
and Teuffelen to 4 m. Gerolfingen, 
on the lake.] 

Anet, or Ins (Inn: Bar). View 9 m. 
of the Alps, with the lake of Morat 
and Neuchatel, near at hand ; 
also of the Aarberger morass (9 m. 
by 6 m.), un drained, owing to the 
cost of embanking. 

Skirting the hill of Jolimont we 
cross a bridge over the B. Thiel, 
or Zihl, which connects the lakes 
of Neuchatel and Bienne. Castle, 
by the bridge, is now a prison. 

[Boad to Erlach (Cerlier), 1000 
Inhab., on a spur of Mt. Jolimont, 
which projects into the lake like a 
wall or causeway, nearly to Rous- 
seau's Island. Castle of Erlach 
was the cradle of the noble family 
of that name : among its members 
was Budolph, the hero of Laupen 
in 1339.3 

Kailway from Bienne to Neu- 
chatel (Bte. 49) is reached near 
St. Blaize Stat., on the lake of 
Neuchatel {Prefargier is a lunatic 
asylum), and the road continues 
along the lake at the foot of Mt. 
Ohaumont, as far as 

Neuchatel Stat., on the height, 
20 min. walk from the inns. 

Neuchatel (Germ. Neuenburg) 10 m 
—{Inns : Hotel Bellevue, a large 
building; H. des Alpes, both 
close to the lake ; Faucon) 
(10,537 Inhab., chiefly Brot.). 
built on the slope of the Jura, 
and along a shelf of ground be- 
tween the hills and the lake, 
formed partly by alluvial deposits 
of the river Seyon, for which a 
Tunnel was cut, 1839, through 
the rock, to cany its stream di- 



201 Bte. ±8.—BEBNE 



to NEUCHATEL. 202 



rectly into the lake. Several 
streets have been built on the 
land thus acquired. The whole 
is fenced in by a broad Quai 
planted with trees, washed by 
the lake. The objects of curiosity 
are unimportant. The scenery, 
though agreeable, is tame, com- 
pared with other Swiss lakes. 

History. — The French princes 
of Chalons (Longueville) were 
nominally the sovereigns of this 
little state ; though the subjects 
maintained their privileges jea- 
lously. When the house of Cha- 
lons became extinct in 1707, the 
King of Prussia was chosen, as 
the nearest descendant by the fe- 
male line, to be sovereign or stadt- 
holder. The sovereignty of the 
house of Brandenburg was inter- 
rupted by Napoleon, who made 
Marshal Berthier Prince of Neu- 
chatel, but was resumed in 18 15, 
and continued until 1857, when 
the King of Prussia renounced 
his right. Neuchatel was not 
formally incorporated as a mem- 
ber of the Confederation until 
1 8 14. Constitution, as settled in 
1848, is upon the republican 
model. 

Old Castle on the height was 
the residence of the French 
princes; and down to 1848 of the 
Prussian governors; and is now 
government offices. 

Church, adjoining the castle, is 
Gothic, of the 1 2th centy ; but the 
E. end, in the round style, is older. 
Monument of 1 5 Counts and Coun- 
tesses of Freiburg, in Breisgau, 
with their effigies, 1372. 

Terrace, in front of ch. Farel, 
the reformer, was buried here ; but 
the situation of his grave is un- 
known. View. 

Picture Gallery, in Palais 
Bougemont, N.E. of the town: 
good productions of modern artists, 



chiefly natives of French Switzer- 
land, as : — Calame's Monte Rosa, 
Rosenlaui, &c. ; Gros- Claude, Lady 
Claypole, and Cromwell ; Tschag- 
gany, a Flemish bridal procession ; 
Leopold Bobert (a native of Chaux- 
de-Fonds), Ch. of St. Paul at 
Rome after the Fire, Roman Oxen; 
Ch. Girardet, Hugonots sur- 
prised at prayer ; also portraits of 
Frederick the Great and other 
Prussian sovereigns. In a build- 
ing adjoining is the Collection 
Challande, of admirably stuffed 
animals, groups trom Reineke 
Fuchs, &c. 

In Palais Rougemont is a 
Beading-room, open to strangers. 

Public Library — 30,000 vols. ; 
many letters by Rousseau. 

Gymnasium, near the lake, 
erected by the town as a public 
school, contains a Museum of Na- 
tural History, good collections in 
zoology, conchology, and geology. 
The specimens illustrating the 
Jura mtns. are very complete. This 
institution owes much to Prof. 
A gassiz, a native of Orbe in Vaud. 
Ladies' School, built by the town 
(1853), where a good cheap edu- 
cation is given to girls. 

Charitable institutions of this 
town, for which it is indebted to 
its own citizens, are on a splendid 
scale. In 1786 David Pury left 
his whole fortune of i66,oooZ. to 
endow an Hospital and Poor- 
house. He had quitted Neu- 
chatel a poor lad, and finally 
became a millionaire at Lisbon. 
His statue, by David d'Angers, 
is in front of the Gymnasium. 

Hopital Pourtales is a similar 
monument of the public spirit of 
a townsman. It is open to people 
of all religions and countries. 

English Ch. Service twice on 
Sundays in the Oratoire des 
Bercles, 



203 Bte. ±9.— BIENNE to YVEBDUN and LAUSANNE. 204 



Watches and docks are the 
chief manufacture, of which 
nearly a million are exported an- 
nually : the central seat of it may 
be said to be the valley of Chaux- 
de-Fonds and Locle (Rte. 50). 
Most of the watches sold at 
Geneva are made in the canton 
of Neuchatel ; the dealers at 
Geneva contracting for all the 
good ones, and leaving the bad. 

Excursions, 

(c) Summit of the Chaumont 
(3580 ft.), ij hr. walk or drive. 
*Yiew of the snowy Alps, from 
Titlis to Mont Blanc; lakes of 
Neuchatel, Bienne, and Morat ; 
towns of Berne, Neuchatel, So- 
leure, Freiburg. The atmosphere 
is seldom perfectly clear. Hotel 
on the top, accommodating 100 
persons, with drawing and read- 
ing rooms, &c, 1867. 

(b) Pierre a Bot (toad-stone), 
on its slope, in a wood, near a 
farm-house, 2 m. above the town, 
is the largest boulder - stone 
known on the Jura, 62 ft. long 
by 48 broad, and contains 14,000 
cubic feet. It is of granite, simi- 
lar to that of Gt. St. Bernard, 
from which part of the Alps it 
probably came, as there is no 
similar rock nearer at hand ; yet 
it exhibits no symptoms of attri- 
tion, its angles being sharp. The 
entire S. slope of the Jura, a 
limestone formation, is strewed 
with these granite blocks, derived 
from the high Alps. Their pre- 
sence is ascribed to floating ice- 
bergs operating as rafts on a great 
ancient lake. 

Views of the Bernese Alps and 
Mt. Blanc from the Noiraique 
Stat, of the Pontarlier Ely. (Rte. 
51), or from the Hautes-Geneveyes 
Stat, of the Chaux-de-Fonds Rly. 
(Rte. 50). 



(a) Gorge of the Seyon, imme- 
diately behind Neuchatel, is a deep 
narrow fissure, cleaving the Jura, 
and allowing the river Seyon to 
escape from the Yal de Ruz into 
the lake of Neuchatel. By the 
Trouee du Seyon, a tunnel 500 ft. 
long cut through the rock 1839, 
the torrent is conveyed clear of 
the town into the lake. 
. Wine is the principal produce 
of the canton ; the best sorts are 
red of Cortaillod and Derriere 
Moulins, and the -white grown 
between Auvergnier and St. 
Blaise. 

Railways. — To Paris by Pontarlier and 
Dijon (this is the shortest route between 
Switzerland and Paris), Rte. 51 ; to Lau- 
sanne and Geneva, Ptte. 49 ; to Berne by 
Bienne ; to Chaux de Fonds and Locle, 
Rte. 50. 

Steamers cross the lake from Neuchatel 
to Morat and Estavayer, on the way to 
Freiburg and Berne. 



Rte. 49.— BIENNE to Y VER- 
DUN and LAUSANNE, by 
the LAKES of BIENNE and 
NEUCHATEL. —Bail way . 



BIENNE to 


M. 


H. 


Neuchatel (Rly.) . 


. 19 




Yverdun „ 


. 23 




Lausanne „ 


• 24 





Since the opening of the Rly. steamers 
have ceased on the lake of Bienne. The 
trains run along its W. bank, and com- 
mand a fine view of it: but the Jura 
chain is hid. 

Take L seats of rly. carriage for view 
of the lakes. 

Bienne, described in Bte. 3. 

Lake of Bienne (German Bieler 
See) (1423 ft.) (10 in. by 3 in.% 



205 Bte. 49. — BIENNE to YYEBDUN and LAUSANNE. 206 



4 ft. lower than Neuchatel. It 
has much quiet beauty of scenery, 
but owes its chief celebrity to 
Kousseau's residence, and his ex- 
travagant praise. 

6 m. Twann£tat (Inn : Bear). Eow- 
boats may be had here to visit 
the island. 

Isle St. Pierre, on which Rous- 
seau took refuge for 2 months, in 
1765, after his proscription at 
Paris, and his pretended stoning 
at Motiers (Kte. 51), is 6 m. from 
Bienne. 

Boats may be hired at almost all the 
villages on the lake to row to it. Carriages 
may be sent from Bienne to Gleresse village 
to wait. 

The island is a ridge of sand- 
stone, rising 1 2 ft. above the lake, 
and crowned by a grove of old 
oaks, the shade of which is most 
refreshing. 

Rousseau s room is nearly in 
the state in which he left it, ex- 
cept that its walls, doors, shutters, 
and windows are scribbled over 
with names of all nations. To 
escape the importunities of visitors 
he used to climb up by a stove, 
through a trap-door (still shown) 
into the garret. 

[A great peat-moss lies S.E. of 
the lake. The Gothic abbey of 
St. Jean is turned into a factory, 
where the peat is condensed and 
transmuted into benzine, oil, pe- 
troleum, and pigments.] 

4 m. Neuveville Stat. (Germ. Neu- 
enstadt) (Inns: Couronne; Pen- 
sion Grether, S. of the town). 

[Ascent of Chasseral (see Kte. 
3), 5279 ft. : 4 hrs. : taking carr. 
to Nodz, 3 hrs., and walk 1 hr. 
to summit.] 

Erlach (Cerlier) stands on the 
opposite side of the lake, near its 
S. extremity, at the foot of Mt. 
Jolimont, a hill winch sends out 



a spur prolonged under water to 
the Isle St. Pierre, producing 
shallows covered with reeds. The 
Jolimont is remarkable for the 
number of snakes found upon it. 

Landeron Stat, a picturesque 1 J n?« 
old town near the mouth of the 
Thiele, or Zihl. This river, after 
passing under a wooden, and 
then under an ancient stone 
bridge, close to which is the 
Castle of Thiele, becomes narrow 
and crooked, and difficult to navi- 
gate. 

St. Blaize Stat at the head of 5 m. 

Lake of Neuchatel, 25 m. by 

7 m. ; 475 ft. deep, and 1427 ft. 
above the sea. The Jura mtns. 
form the W. side of the lake ; the 
other side is comparatively flat; 
and the scenery, though not un- 
pleasing, is somewhat tame. 

The line continues to rise until 
it overlooks the whole lake. 

Neuchatel Junct. Stat. (Rte.3m. 
48). 

Swiss Western Railway. Trains to 
Lausanne in 2%, i\ hrs. 

At first our line runs side by 
side with that to Pontarlier. 
(Rte. 51.) 

Viaduct over the glen of Ser-2 m. 
rieres ; lower down runs the road, 
over a handsome stone bridge 
built by Marshal Berthier. The 
bottom of it is occupied by a 
group of water-mills, turned by 
a remarkable stream, rising in 
the head of the dell, and falling 
into the lake, after a course of not 
more than j m. 

Ely. descends towards 

Auvernier Junct. Stat., where 2 m. 
that to Pontarlier turns rt. Our 
line also quits the lake for a time. 

Boudry Stat, birthplace of the 
I miscreant Jacobin Marat. 



207 Ete. 4S.—BIENNE to YYEBDUN and LAUSANNE. 208 



7Jni. Gorgier St, Aubin Stat. [As- 
cent of the Creux du Vent (Ete. 
51.] rt. is the well-preserved 
castle of Yaumarcus, beyond which 
the canton de Vaud is entered. 

5m. Concise Stat. (Inn: Ecn de 
France). More than 800 stone 
axes, chisels, and other tools were 
dredged np from the lake near 
this in 1 86 1. 

5m. Grandson Stat. — [Inn: Lion 
d"Or)— a town of 1500 Inhab. 
Castle : the rly. cnts through, its 
enclosure. This venerable build- 
ing is now converted into a 
snuff-manufactory. Before the 
battle of Grandson, it resisted 
for 10 days the artillery of the 
Burgundian army. When at 
length the garrison of 412 men 
surrendered it, Charles caused 
part of them to be hung on 
the surrounding trees, and the 
rest to be drowned in the lake. 
But 2 days after, on the 3rd of 
March, 14-6, he experienced the 
memorable defeat of his host, 
50,000 strong, by the army of 
the Swiss confederates, 25,000 
in number : and was himself 
compelled to fly for his life with 
only 5 followers. In this battle, 
as in those of Morat and Nancy, 
the Swiss were invading the then 
territories of the Dukes of Savoy 
or of Burgundy. 

Church of Grandson, of 10th or 
nth centy., is curious. Priors 
stall of wood is worth notice. 
Farel preached the reformed doc- 
trines from its pulpit. 

Ely. skirts the lake and crosses 
the Thiele. 

2Jm. Yverdun Stat. (Ger. Ifferten) 
— {Inns: H. de Londres; Croix 
Federale) (5029 Inhab.) — is built 
on the site of the Eoman Eburo- 
dunum, whose name, with a little 
change, it inherits. Castle (b. 



12th centy. by Conrad of Zahr- 
ingen) became the school-house 
of Pestalozzi, from r8o5 to 1825. 
Although the founder of a system 
of education in Europe and Ame- 
rica, he was a bad practical 
schoolmaster himself; and this 
establishment turned out a signal 
failure. 

Promenades are pretty by the 
side of the lake, and the town is 
picturesque. 

Excursion to Orbe and the Lac 
de Joux (Ete. 52). 

Ely. proceeds through a fertile 
and thriving country, along the 
valley of the Thiele, with views 
of Jura range to the TV., and 
often of snow-peaks to the S. and 
E. Castle of Champmont, rt., be- 
fore coming to 

Chavornay Junct Stat [Omni- 7 m. 
bus to Orbe (Ete. 52).] By 2 
short tunnels through a low range, 
down the valley of the Venoge. 

Cossonay eh. is prettily situated 8 m. 
on a height in the valley of the 
Venoge. [Diligence to Le Pont 
[see Ete. 5 2).] 

Bussigny Junct. Stat [Ely. 4 m. 
rt. to Morges and Genera (Ete. 
53).] Through green and plea- 
sant valleys, without any exten- 
sive view, to 

Lausanne Junct. Stat. (Ete. 5 m. 
55). 



209 Bte. 50. — NEUCHA TEL 



to CHAUX DE FONDS. 210 



| of machinery. 12,000 persons in 
the neighbouring district are en- 
gaged in watchmaking ; the wages 
vary from 2^ fr. to 10 fr. a day. 

Two subterranean mills are here 
turned by the stream of the valley 
previous to its sinking under- 
ground ; the rocks have been 
blasted to afford space for the 
mills; but those at Locle are 
even more curious. [Diligences to 
Porrentrui ; to Sonceboz, by the 
Val St. Imier.] 

Doubs River, which separates 
Switzerland from France, tra- 
verses one of those singular fis- 
sures common in the Jura lime- 
stone, and descends in a fall (le 
Saut du Doubs) 80 ft. high. 
Above the fall the river, dammed 
up by rocks, spreads out into a 
sort of lake ; below, for nearly 
6 m., it runs between rocks 800 
or 1000 ft. high. 

[Exclusion to the Saut du 
Doubs. a. Char-road to the Plan- 
chettes ; thence path to Moron, in 
J hr. ; and to the Saut, f hr., along 
the river, returning byBrenets and 
Locle. The char may be sent, 
direct, from Planch ettes to Bre- 
nets. b. Carriage-road to Locle ; 
thence to La Roche Fendue, 3 m. — 
an aperture bored in the rock di- 
viding Switzerland from France, 
commenced 1779, and only lately 
finished, by which the road to 
Besancon is shortened by 6 m. : 
it opens a singular view over the 
Val de Doubs.] 

Ely. makes another bend to 
reach 



Rte. 50. — neuchAtel to 

CHAUX BE EONDS and LE 
LOCLE.— Rail. 

This rly. shows remarkable 
engineering skill. In a distance 
(direct) of 9 m. it rises 1700 ft. 
by means of ingeniously contrived 
curves. Secure seats on the 1. 
Fine views of Alps. 

NEUCHATEL to Eng. m. 
Chaux de Fonds ... 19 
Locle 5i 

a. 20 m. Jura Inclustriel Railway in 
3 hrs. 

b. Diligence from Neuchatel to Le 
Locle by Les Ponts. 

a. Quitting Heuchatel Stat. 
(1600 ft. above lake), Views 1. 
over to the Alps, rly. crosses 
the Seyon. Then a tunnel 1850 ft. 
long. Alpine view 1. on emerging. 

6 m . Chambrelien&to£. Buffet. The 
line to Pontarlier (Ete. 51) lies 
nearly 1000 ft. below. The direc- 
tion of the line is now reversed 
from S. W. to 1ST., passing above the 
2 small tunnels just mentioned. 

8ni. Hauts Geneveys Stat. ^Hotel 
Reybaud) (3137 ft.). Summit 
level of the line. 

' rt. * View of Mt. Blanc. Through 
tunnel under Col des Loges. 

Convert Stat. Through a tun- 
nel of 3 m. to 

5m. Chaux de Fonds Stat. {Inns: 
Fleur de Lys ; Balances ; Lion 
d'Or : all indifferent), a scattered 
vill. of 18,000 Inhab., in a bleak 
upland valley (3070 ft.). Each 
cottage is an isolated cube, sur- 
rounded by a croft. Its inhabit- 
ants are reputed to be very rich. 

Watchmaking . — After Locle, 
it is the chief seat of the manu- 
facture of clocks and watches. 
This is carried on in the se- 
parate dwellings of the work- 
men. Each man makes one piece 



Le Locle Stat, an industrious 5 J m. 
village (Pop. 9336), rebuilt since 
fire of 1833 (Inn: Trois Rois) ; 
the men watchmakers, the women 
lacemakers. It is the birthplace 
of the painter Leop. Robert, to 
whom a statue is set up. 



211 Bte. 51.— PONTARLIER to NEUCHATEL. 212 



Watchmaking. — The number of 
gold and silver watches made in 
Locle, and registered 1861, was 
216,830. In 1774 the total num- 
ber made was 300. 

JBied rivulet, which traverses 
the valley, loses itself, 1 m. from 
Locle, in a chasm in the rock. 
This outlet, however, proved in- 
sufficient ; and the district round 
the town was inundated by the 
melting snows. A tunnel, 95 o ft. 
long, was accordingly pierced 
through the screen of limestone- 
rock which encompasses the 
valley, in 1802-6. It is at Cul 
des Bodies that the river disap- 
pears, sinking into the mountain 
through an abyss 100 ft. deep. 
This water-power, or privilege, as 
an American would call it, is not 
lost : 3 or 4 mills have been con- 
structed, one below the other, in 
the cavernous cleft — each re- 
ceiving the stream in turn. 

b. By diligence. 

The high-road to Chaux de 
Fonds runs directly through the 
chasm of the Seyon (Kte. 48). 

Vallengin — {Inn : Couronne) — 
is the principal place in the fer- 
tile Val de Euz (430 Inhab.). 
Castle (now a prison) in part as 
old as the 12th centy. ; its base 
is washed by the Seyon. Church, 
a regular Gothic structure, was 
built by a Count of Vallengin, on 
his return from the crusades, in 
consequence of a vow made to 
the Virgin in a storm at sea, that 
he would build a ch. upon the 
water ; accordingly the stream of 
the valley is conducted under the 
building. 

Ascent steep and long, up the 
Tete de Eang, leads to 

Hauts Geneveys on the rly. 

(see above). 



Ete. 51. — PONTARLIER (in 
FRANCE) to NETJCHATEL. 

PONTARLIER to Eng. m. 

ISToiraigue 18 

Neuchatel .12 

Railway (Franco-Suisse), 32 m. 2i hrs. 
The most direct communication between 
Paris and W. Switzerland ; 3 trains daily 
in 13 hrs. You may leave Paris at 11 
a.m. by express, and reach Dole (H. de 
Geneve) in the evening, 7-45. It passes 
scenery of great interest. 

Take seats on rt. of rly. carriage. 

Pontarlier (Inn: H. National, 

best, but not good ; a tolerable 
inn is a want here), the last town, 
and the highest above the sea- 
level, in France. [See Handbk. of 
France.'] Buffet here. 

Ely. ascends by the river Doubs, 
and through the pass of La Cluse, 
which may be called a mountain 
gateway between France and 
Switzerland, to St. Pierre de Joux. 
The defile is commanded by 

rt. Le Chateau de Joux, at whose 2 J m, 
foot the roads from Pontarlier and 
Salins, and those from Neuchatel 
and Geneva, by Jougne, unite. 
It has been strengthened greatly 
by new works and a detached 
fort (1.). This frontier-fort was 
the prison of the Negro Tous- 
saint VOuverture, when treacher- 
ously carried off from St. Domingo 
by command of Napoleon. He 
died here. Mirabeau was con- 
fined here 1775 by virtue of 
a lettre de cachet obtained by his 
father, " 1' Ami des Hommes," as 
he called himself, but the tyrant 
of his own family. 

French frontier, between the 5 m. 
villages of Verrieres de Joux and 
Verrieres de Suisse, Stat. f is 



213 Bte. 5 1 .—PONTABLIER to NEUCHATEL. 214 



quitted the place under the pre- 
tence of having been persecuted, 
and because the boys threw stones 
at his windows. 



crossed. The Custom-house regu- 
lations on this part of the French 
frontier are rigorous. Passengers 
by rly. avoid this inconvenience. 

The country now becomes ex- 
ceedingly romantic, sprinkled with 
cottages in the picturesque style 
of the Jura and Alps. Cheese, 
nearly as good as that of Gru- 
yeres, and sold under that name, 
is made on the upland pastures of 
the Jura. 

ii Tunnels between this and 
Neuchatel. 

Descent into the Val Travers 
is through another gorge, called 
La Chaine, because the passage 
was at one time stopped by a 
massy chain drawn across the 
road, and fastened to staples in 
the rock. This primitive fortifica- 
tion is said to have been intended 
to arrest the artillery of Charles 
the Bold. 

5 j m. St. Sulpice village. The river 
Reuse, which waters the Val 
Travers, rises out of the rock. It 
is said to be the outlet of the Lac 
d'Etalieres, 4 m. orY N., among 
the hills. 
Long tunnel. 

Boveresse Stat. 

Far down rt., on the opposite 
side of the valley, lies 

Motiers Travers {Inn: Maison 
de Commune), a village of watch 
and lace makers. It was the 
residence of Rousseau after his 
banishment from Geneva, by per- 
mission of Marshal Keith, go- 
vernor of Neuchatel. His desk 
is shown, at which he wrote his 
4 Lettres de la Montagne;' and 
up stairs, in a wooden gallery, 2 
peeping-holes, through which he 
could observe people out of doors 
without being seen himself. He 



Couvet Stat. Omnibus to Mo- 4 m. 
tiers. [Diligence daily to Le Lode 
by Les Ponts j 

Hoiraigue Stat. [Ascent of the oi m. 
Creux de Vent mtn. rt., 4807 ft., 
1 hr. ; descent by St. Aubin or 
Boudry. Summit is hollowed out 
into a cavity, 2 m. in diameter, 500 
ft. deep, surrounded by an amphi- 
theatre of limestone rock. "At 
times, when a change of weather 
is impending, the crater of the 
mountain is seen to become sud- 
denly filled with a cloud of white 
vapour, working and rising and 
falling with an easy but percep- 
tible motion, until the whole 
hollow presents the appearance of 
an immense caldron of boiling 
vapour, which seldom rises above 
the edge. If any escape, it is by 
the opening towards the defile; 
and I have seen it repeatedly issue 
in a thin white line, and float 
gradually down the centre of the 
valley till imperceptibly dimi- 
nished and dissipated." — Latrobe. 
The echo of a gun within the 
Creux de Yent is like a scattered 
fire of musketry, and the hollow 
may be called the very cradle of 
the winds, which appear to be 
perpetually blowing from it.] 

Through 4 Tunnels. 
View of the Lake of Neuchatel 
and distant Alps, Mont Blanc, &c, 
is glorious, rt. 1 far below is the 
viaduct of the Yverdun Ely., while 
overhead is the Chambrelien Stat, 
of the Chaux de Fonds Bly. 

Auvernier Junct. Stat. Here 8 m. 
we meet the Neuchatel and Yver- 
dun line (Kte. 49), and the two 
run side by side. Views of the 
Lake and the Alps. Cross the 



215 



Hie. 52 . — YVERD UN to the LAC DE JOUX. 



216 



viaduct over the gorge of Serrieres. 
Above it is Castle Beauregard. 

in. Neuchatel Junct. Stat, and Ter- 
minus (Kte. 48), high, up above 
the lake. Descent to the lake by 
shady walks into the town, avoid- 
ing the dusty road. 



Rte. 52.— YVERDUN, or LAU- 
SANNE, to the LAC BE JOUX. 

An exceedingly pretty excur- 
sion of 2 days through the best 
Jura scenery. 

YVERDUN, or 

LAUSANNE f^ 1 ^-™ 
Cossonay (dil. to) 
Le Pont . . . . ijm. 

Diligences from the Yverdun and Lau- 
sanne Kly. (Rte. 49) to Le Pont, in the 
Vallee de Joux, from — a, Cossonay; b, 
Chavornay. 

Cossonay Stat, (Kte. 49). Dil. 
with 2 seats once a day for the 
train from Lausanne. It reaches 
in 4 hrs., over a high ridge (View 
of the Alps), 

13 m. Le Pont {see col. 217). 



YVERDUN, or j byrly 



to 



LAUSANNE 
Charvornay (dil. to) 

Orbe 2 m. 

Le Pont . . . . 14 m. 

Charvornay Stat. (Rte. 49). 
Omnibus, on the arrival of most 
trains, across numerous branches 
of the Orbe and Noxon, through 
a flat valley, to 

2m. Orbe (1482 ft.) (Inns: Ecu 
de France, fair and cheap ; 
Mai son de Ville), a picturesque 
and ancient town of 1927 Inhab., 
built on a hill nearly insulated 



by the Orbe, which is crossed 
by 3 bridges. Lower bridge, on 
the road to the Vallee de Joux, 
is of great antiquity. Orbe was 
the Roman station Urbigenuni, 
and a place of importance in the 
middle ages, under the Burgun- 
dian Kings. 

Promenade. — View over the 
valleys of the Orbe and Noxon to 
the Bernese Alps. 

Canal. — An attempt was made 
in 1639 to connect the lakes of 
Geneva and Neuchatel by a canal 
between the rivers Orbe and Ye- 
noge ; it was cut 1 2 m. as far as 
Entre Roche, but was never car- 
ried farther. 

Slow diligence (j hrs.) once a day to 
Le Pont, 14 m. 

Road to the valley of Joux 
leaves Orbe by the new bridge, 
and ascends in zigzags. Views of 
the snowy Alps 1., and of the Jura 
range rt. The country is fertile, 
and the road in beautiful order. 

Romainmotier (2297 ft.), pic- 5 m. 
turesquely placed in a hollow. 
Ch. one of the oldest in Switzer- 
land ; the nave remains as it was 
in 753. The road now ascends 
the green and pleasant valley of 
the little river Noxon to 

Vaulion (3081 ft,), a little 4 ni. 
village in a wider part of the 
valley, inhabited by shoemakers, 
and overhung by the Dent de 
Vaulion. [Ascend the Dent de 
Vaulion whilst the diligence 
delays, walking ij m. along the 
high road, then turning rt. up 
the mtn. Descend by another path 
to Le Pont.'] Zigzags take the 
carriage-road to a higher level, 
where little but rocks and firs 
are to be seen. The road is beau- 
tifully kept. The traveller is re- 
minded of a large English park. 
A short descent through a narrow 



217 Bte. 52.~YVE$DUN to the LAC DE JOUX. 2ig 



pass, bordered by limestone cliffs 
and firs, brings us to 

5 in. Le Pont {Inn : H. de la Truite, 
tolerable ; here are guides, but 
only one or two horses, and 
no side-saddles), prettily situ- 
ated at the N. end of the Lac 
de Joux, 3310 feet, and looking 
like an English village, with 
its neat roads, good houses, and 
green fields. The quiet aspect of 
the Lac de Joux, surrounded by 
grassy mountains, limestone cliffs, 
and woods of beech and fir, would, 
if it were more in the highway, 
make the valley a popular resort. 
Care should be taken in walking 
amongst these mountains to avoid 
old wells dug for the flocks, and 
imperfectly covered. A n unfortu- 
nate English gentleman, named 
Herbert, was drowned in one near 
the chalets of the Mont Tendre 
in 1837, an( i * s buried at Mont 
Richer. 

Lakes of Le Ter and Brenets 
are 2 others in this same valley, 
which is entirely shut in by high 
hills; so that, although these 
sheets of water are fed by all the 
streams of the valley, they have 
no visible outlet. There are, how- 
ever, large orifices in the beds of 
these lakes, called entonnoirs, 
through which the waters escape. 
These fissures are sometimes in- 
capable of carrying off the waters, 
and thus inundations are caused. 
A tunnel, of no very great extent, 
might drain the lake entirely. 

Excursions. — The Alps are well 
seen from all the heights. 

a. Ascent of the Dent de Vau- 
lion N.E., 4 8 75 ft., 1 hr. The sum- 
mit is not visible from Le Pont. 

b. Chaudiere d'Enfer, a cavern, 
10 min. from Abbaye, which is 
2 m. from Le Pont. A stream 
issues from it. By crawling and 



using a rope, you can penetrate 
200 yds. to a little lake or pool. 
There are other unexplored re- 
cesses in the cavern. Guide at 
the inn, 2 fr. 

c. Ascent of ML Tendre, S., 5 3 6 1 
ft., 3 hrs. The path to it goes up 
on the 1. bank of the ravine, be- 
hind Abbaye. Descent 2 hrs., to 
Montr icher (2428 ft.), on the other 
side; thence char-road to Cosso- 
nay. 

d. Source of the 0r5e,N., 3 m. It 
rises in a copious spring, fed no 
doubt by subterraneous conduits 
from the Lac de Joux. Grotte 
des Fees, near the source, is an 
extensive cavern. By starting in 
the morning the pedestrian may 
catch the diligence from Salins to 
Chavornay, and so return to Cha- 
vornay by the pretty vale of the 
Orbe. 

e. Le JBrassus (H. de Landes 
de France). By either shore 
of the Lac de Joux. It is a 
thriving town of watchmakers. 

/. Lake of Geneva. As in e 
to Le Brassus, and thence to Les 
Rousses, on the old post-road to 
Geneva. View of the Alps when 
descending. Another route is to 
cross from Le Brassus to the 
village of St Georges, by the 
Asile de Marcheiruz (4757 ft.), 
3 hrs. walk; from thence 9 m. 
by a good road to Rolle, on the 
Lake of Geneva (Ete. 55). 



219 ttte. 53.— LYONS, or MACON, to GENEVA. 220 



Rte. 53.— LYONS, or MACON, 
to GENEVA.— Railway. 

The rly. from Lyons and that from 
Paris (passing through Macon) join at 
Amberieu Stat., 28 m. from Lyons, 42 m. 
from Macon. There is but one express 
train each way daily. 

1 LYONS, or MACON to 
[ Amberieu . . . 

[ Culoz . . . 31 m. . . ii hi*. 
!i: Geneva . . . 41 m. . .if hr. 
r Take rt. seats of rly. carriage to see the 
Rhone. 

From Amberieu the rly. ascends 
the rocky valley of the little 
river Serrant, making considerable 
curves to 

11m. Tenay Stat, at the junction of 
3 valleys. Soon after this the road 
passes between lofty cliffs not 
unlike those of Clifton, and by a 
series of little lakes, which occa- 
sioned great difficulties to the 
engineers, a tunnel is passed to 

9 m. Rossillon Here the sum- 
mit level is reached, and the road 
emerges on the Swiss side of the 
Jura. Limestone mountains seem 
to close round the line. View of 
distant mtns. The road passes 
under the Grand Columbier, which 
overhangs 

11m. Culoz June. Stat. (Inns : Croix 
Blanche ; Union). [To Chambery, 
Rte. 153.] The rly. to Geneva 
henceforward keeps close to the 
Rhone, only leaving it once, in 
order to cut off an angle. 

9m. Seyssel Stat, on the Rhone. 
Quarries of asphalte. 

Billiat Stat [1 m. to Malper- 
tuis (pertuis means a " gorge "). 
More imposing than the Perte du 
Rhone (next paragr.). The river 
quietly flows 600 ft. deep between 
cliffs sometimes less than 15 ft. 
apart.] 



Bellegarde Stat The last town 11 
in France, and French custom- 
house. Behind the H. de la Poste 
the Yalserine joins the Rhone. 

10 min. from stat. the Perte du 
Bhone, where in dry seasons the 
Rhone disappears from sight 
through the rocks of its bed (Rte. 
53, e). The rly. crosses the gorge 
of the Valserine on a high viaduct. 
The extensive works of the French 
frontier Fort de VEcluse are passed 
near 

Gollonges Stat, in a narrow 
defile. 

Franco-Swiss Frontier. Hence 
through a pleasing country of 
little peculiar interest, to 

Geneva. (Germ. Genf; Ital. 
Grinevra.) 

Inns: First class, — a. on the rt. bank of 
the Rhone (side of the rly. stat.), Grand 
H. de Mont Blanc, fine situation, kept 
by former landloid of l'Ecu, very good; 
H. des Bergues, also gocd ; H. de Beau- 
rivage et d' Angle terre, frequented by 
Russians ; H. de la Paix ; H. Victoria ; 
H. de Geneve ; H. de la Metropole, an 
immense establishment; l'Ecu de Geneve, 
excellent ; Couronne, well-managed, mode- 
rate, civil landlord — excellent inns, facing 
the lake on the Grand Quai. b. on the I. 
bank of the Rhone, H. du Rhone, clean 
and reasonable; la Balance, most com- 
fortable as a 2nd class inn. Restaurant, 
Richter (Lion d'Or), good. Cafes, Du 
Nord, facing the lake, one of the best in 
Switzerland ; la Poste. 

Cercle de la Hive. — A most respectable 
Genevese Club. 

British Consul. Mr. Mackenzie, 19, 
Rue du Rhone, is most obliging and 
anxious to be useful. 

American (U.S.) Consul resides here. 

Raihcays: to Paris by Macon in 15 
hrs. ; to Lyons or Paris by Fort l'Ecluse 
(Paris time kept) ; to Lausanne or Neu- 
chatel by Morges (Berne time) ; to Berne ; 
to Sion. 

Steamboats twice a day along the N. 
shore to Lausanne and Villeneuve Stat. in 
5 hrs. Twice along the S. shore in con- 
nection with the Sion Rly. at Bouveret. 
(Rtes. 55 and 57.) 




Arsenal. C 4. 
Bains du Rhone. 'E3. 
Public Library. C 5. 
Boucherie. E 2. 
Cathedral. C 4. 
Acad, of Music. C 2. 
English Church. F 4. 
Hotel do Ville. C 4. 
Halle aux Bids. D 5. 
Calvin's House. C 4. 
Rousseau's House. F 2. 
Musee Rath. C 3. 



13. Museum of Acad. 

14. Pumps. E3. 

15. Post and Telegraph Of- 

fices. D 2. 
1G. Prison. D 6. 

17. Fr. Protestant Ch. F 2. 

18. Theatre. C 3. 

19. Monument of Escalade. 

D 3. 

20. Athenaeum. 

21. Jardin Anglais. 

22. R. Cath. Ch. 



HOTELS. 

a. H. des Bergues. F 4. 

b. Metropole. D 6. 

c Ecu de Geneve. E 4. 

d. Couronne. D 5. 

e. H. de Geneve. G 2. 
/. II. d'Angleterrc. H 6. 

(7. H. d'Angletcrre et Bcaurn 
h. H. dc la Paix. 



223 



Bte. 53.— GENEVA. 



224 



To Cliamouni.— Diligences daily to St. 
Martin: chars onward— making the whole 
journey in 9 or 10 hrs. 

Yoituriers charge for a carriage with 
1 horse 10 to 12 fr., with 2 horses 22 fr. 
per diem (Kolliker lets carriages). 

Post-horses — 128, Rue du Cendrier. 
£ a post extra is charged on quitting 
Geneva. 

Cigars. — Clerc Bonnet, Quai des Bergues; 
Wistaz and Co., 6, Rue de Cornavin. 

Stationers. — Brachard, Grande Rue ; 
and Wesel, opposite. Briquet has pub- 
lished good maps. 

Bookseller. — Monroe, 32, Grand Quai, 
has a reading-room, and keeps a store of 
maps, guides, English books, &c. ; and a 
visitors' and strangers' book. Good tea 
and Palmer's biscuits may also be had of 
Monroe. 

Physicians. — Dr. Coindet, eminent and 
friendly; Dr. Lombard also is well in- 
formed, kind, and experienced: both 
studied at Edinburgh. Dr. Metcalfe, 3, 
Quai du Mont Blanc, is a resident English 
physician. 

Chemists. — G. Baker, Place des Bergues, 
English Pharmacy ; Bastard, 13, Rue des 
Allemands. 

English Church, Rue du Mont Blanc, 
near the Bergues Hotel, was built by 
subscription in 185 J. Mr. George Haldi- 
niann gave 1000L towards it. 11 a.m. and 

7 P.M. 

Boats on lake (take a boatman) 2 or 3 
fr. the hr. 

Geneva, though the capital of 
the smallest of the Swiss cantons, 
except Zng, is the most populous 
town in the Confederation, 42,000 
Inhab. (16,650 Rom. Cath.), and 
14,798 foreigners. It is situated 
where " the blue waters of the 
arrowy Rhone" rush out of the 
lake of Geneva. The river divides 
the town into two parts ; the 
smaller on the rt. bank being 
called Quartier St. Gervais. Its 
intense blue colour is veiy re- 
markable, and resembles nothing 
so much as the discharge of indigo 
from a dyer's vat. A mile below 
the town it is polluted by the 
turbid Arve. 

Geneva looks most imposing 
from the lake, and in consequence 
of vast improvements and exten- 



sion, for which it is indebted, in 
some degree, to the gold of English 
travellers. It has been allowed 
to expand its limits by the de- 
struction of its fortifications in 
1850, and it is become a really 
handsome city, while its situation 
was always charming. Geneva is 
divided into an upper and lower 
town. The upper town consists 
almost entirely of mansions of 
the burgher aristocracy, heretofore 
the senators and magistrates of 
the republic, between whom and 
the inhabitants of the lower town, 
consisting of shopkeepers, a strong 
social line is drawn. The Quartier 
de St. Gervais, on the rt. bank of 
the Rhone, is the abode of work- 
men, the seat of democracy after 
the French pattern — the Faubourg 
St. Antoine of Geneva. It has 
something of the air of the old 
town of Edinburgh. 

History. — Geneva is mentioned 
by Caesar in his Commentaries, as 
" the last fortress of the Allo- 
broges and the nearest to the 
Helvetian frontier." In the mid- 
dle ages, up to 1530, it was go- 
verned by its bishop. In 1401 
the Counts of Savoy became power- 
ful enough always to obtain the 
bishopric for one of then own 
family. A faction, aided by the 
Protestant Confederates of the 
Cantons, Eidgenossen (from which 
"Huguenot" is probably de- 
rived), concluded an alliance with 
Freiburg in 1518, and soon after- 
wards with Berne, and in 1530 
compelled the Duke of Savoy to 
grant their independence. From 
Geneva emanated those religious 
doctrines from which Scotland, 
Holland, and a large part of 
France, Germany, and Switzer- 
land, derive their form of faith, 
and which were transported by 
the Pilgrim Fathers to the oppo- 



225 



Bte. 53.—' 



•GENEVA. 



226 



site shores of the Atlantic. Here 
also were sown those political 
opinions which bore fruit in the 
English revolution under Charles 
I., in the American and the 
French Kevolutions. After a 
sort of Keign of Terror Geneva 
was annexed to France in 1798. 
In 1 8 14 it became a member of 
the Swiss confederation, and the 
aristocratic government was re-es- 
tablished, but after many changes 
a democratic government was es- 
tablished in 1846, every citizen 
having a vote. In 1846 the town 
had a balance in hand of 300,000 
fr. ; it is now enormously in debt. 
On the other hand, many public 
improvements have been carried 
out by the money spent under the 
new government. 

The town of Geneva owes to 
its environs, to the charming 
scenery of its lake, to its position 
on the high road from Paris to 
Italy, and to Chamouni, that it 
has become a place ot so much 
resort. 

A walk through Geneva, including the 
chief buildings, &c— Start from Quai 
and Pont du Mt. Blanc and He 
Rousseau — view thence of river, lake, 
and mountains — Library and Cathedral 
— Musee Academique — Houses of Calvin 
and Rousseau— Prom, of La Treille — 
Athenaeum — Jardin Botanique — Palais 
Electoral — Cemetery — Muse'e Rath, 
Rue de la Corraterie— Poste, Place Bel 
Air — Quais or Ponts. 

Post Office, 2b handsome edifice 
on the Place Bel Air, Hue de la 
Corraterie. Electric Telegraph 
Office on the First Floor. 

Musee Bath, named after its 
founder, Gen. Kath (in Russian 
service), is open daily from 11 to 3, 
admission 1 fr. for a party, free on 
Sunday and Thursday. Contains 
pictures by the Genevese painters, 
Calame, Diday, Homung, and 
Topfer, and other works of art. 

Kp. Switz. 



Musee d 'Academic, No. 119, 
Grande Rue, contains the geolo- 
gical collections of Saussure, the 
fossil plants of MM. Brongniart 
and Decandolle, and the collec- 
tions of M. Necker. Antiquities : 
some from the neighbourhood, 
including a silver dish found in 
the Arve. Societe de Lecture is 
in the same building, a circulat- 
ing library of 40,000 vols., and a 
large reading-room for periodi- 
cals. Strangers readily admitted. 

Zoological Museum at Plain- : 
palais, Maison Santoux, a collec- 
tion of the wild animals of Switz- j 
eiiand, skilfully arranged in groups 
illustrating their mode of life. It j 
deserves the attention of natural- 
ists and sportsmen. 

The Athenseum or Museum of 
Antiquities is a gift to the town 
by Madame Eynard. 

Cathedral, or Ch. of St. Pierre. \ 
— Its fine Corinthian portico is an 
incongruous addition of the 18th 
cent, to a Romanesque edifice of 
the nth cent. See the monu- 
ments of Due Henri de Rohan 
(d. 1638) and his wife, of Agrippa 
d'Aubigne, friend of Henri IV., 
Protestants : also the Pulpit ; its , 
canopy is the same under which 
Calvin preached. 

Botanic Garden, end of La 
Treille, was laid out under the 
direction of Decandolle ; but 
its funds are so limited that 
the collection is of no great im- 
portance. The ground it occupies 
has painful historical associations. 
On this spot, in 1794, took place 
fusillades and butcheries, in which 
the blood of the respectable citizens 
of the town was shed ; condemned 
to execution by a band of wretches, 
most of whom were their fellow- 
citizens, though directed by a de- 
puty from the Comite du Salut 
Public at Paris. 

1 



227 Bte. 53.— LYONS, or MACON, to GENEVA. 228 



Public Library, Rue Verdaine, 
attached to the College, founded 
by the Prior Bomiivard (the 
Prisoner of Chillon), 155 1 ; 70,000 
vols. Curiosities : — 394 MS. let- 
ters of Calvin (one is addressed 
to Lady Jane Grey, while a 
prisoner in the Tower) ; 44 vols, 
of his MS. sermons, 1549-60. 
Vols, of letters of Theodore Beza. 
Letters of St. Vincent de Paul, J. 
J. Kousseau, &e. 

The library is opened every day but 
Saturday and Sunday, from 11 to 4. 

Belief '(or Model) of Mont Blanc, 
in a building in the Jardin Anglais. 

Palais Electoral, outside the 
Porte Neuve, is a handsome 
building for public meetings. 

Eminent citizens. — Besides the 
names of Calvin and Eousseau, 
which are connected with Geneva 
— the one by adoption, the other 
by birth — it is the birthplace of 
many illustrious men, whose repu- 
tation may be styled European. 
Isaac Casaubon ; Lefort, the 
friend and councillor of Peter 
the Great; Necker, the minister 
of Louis XVI., and father of 
Madame de Stael; the natural- 
ists Saussure (who first ascended 
Mont Blanc), Bonnet, De Luc; 
and Huber, the biographer of the 
bee and ant ; Decandolle, the bo- 
tanist; Delome and Mallet du 
Pan, writers ; Gallatin, U.S. ; 
Kossi, the Pope's Minister, assas- 
sinated at Kome in 1849; Du- 
mont, the friend and adviser of 
Mirabeau and of Jeremy Bentham ; 
and Sismondi, the historian. 
Among the living there are 
Neckar, the geologist ; De la Rive, 
the chemist; Alphonse de Can- 
dolle and Edmond Boissier, bo- 
tanists ; Plantamour, astronomer ; 
Maunoir, the oculist ; and Merle 
d'Aubigne, author of the History 



of the Beformation, and a preacher 
at the Oratoire. 

John Calvin is supposed to have 
lived and died in No. 122, Rue 
des Chanoines. In 1 5 3 6 he passed 
through the town a fugitive, on 
his way from Italy to Basle. Two 
years had not elapsed since the 
Genevese had abolished Boman 
Catholicism, expelled then bishop, 
and adopted the Beformation. 
Earel, who was the means of in- 
troducing it, was then preaching 
at Geneva, and, aware of Calvin's 
talents and powerful eloquence, 
entreated him to remain. Calvin 
obeyed the call, and, in a short 
space, the itinerant preacher and 
foreigner was raised to be dictator 
of the republic. From the pulpit 
of St. Peter's Church, which be- 
came at once the tribune and 
judgment-seat of the reformer, he 
denounced the prevailing immo- 
rality of the town. His. hearers, 
running into an opposite extreme, 
adopted a puritanical austerity of 
manners, and every transgression 
of Calvin's code of morals was 
visited with punishment of the 
utmost severity. 

Persecution. — Calvin was 
equally rigorous in the mainte- 
nance of orthodoxy. Servetus, a 
Spanish physician, condemned by 
him for holding anti-trinitarian 
doctrines, which, however, he did 
not attempt to disseminate in 
Geneva, was burnt at the stake 
in the Champ de Bourreau, the 
ancient place of execution outside 
the walls. 

Geneva, thus become " the 
Borne of Protestantism," was re- 
sorted to by many foreigners, who 
sought refuge here from religious 
persecutions in their own countiy. 
Among a number of English and 
Scotch exiled by the cruelties of 
the reign of Queen Mary, was 



229 Bte, 53.— LYONS, or MACON, to GENEVA. 230 



John Knox. Calvin died in 1 5 64 , 
at the age of 55, after 23 years of 
uninterrupted power : he was 
buried in the cemetery of the Plain 
Palais, but he forbade the Gene- 
vese to mark the spot where his 
remains were laid, with a monu- 
ment. 

Jean Jacques Bousseau, son of a 
watchmaker of Geneva, was born 
in No. 40, Grande Kue. It is no 
longer in its original condition, 
having been altered, and partly 
rebuilt. The accident of his 
being shut out of the town 
one evening, on his return from 
a walk, induced him to fly from 
his native town, as he feared to 
face his master next morning. 
His book, the Emile, was burnt by 
order of the Council of Geneva, 
by the common hangman, in front 
of the Hotel de Ville, in 1762. 
The instigators of this act were 
Voltaire and the Council of the 
Sorbonne, who, by a singular co- 
incidence, in this instance acted 
in unison. The Council at the 
same time issued a warrant for 
the arrest of the author. 

Watches, musical boxes, and 
jewellery, are the staple manufac- 
ture of Geneva. The first watch 
was brought to Geneva in 1587, 
and at the end of the last century 
4000 persons were employed 
within the town, and 2000 with- 
out the walls, on this manufac- 
ture. At present the number is 
diminished to less than 3000, 
though, from improvements in 
the mechanical processes, and in- 
creased skill of the workmen, the 
number of watches made is much 
greater than before, 100,000 being 
now manufactured annually. Up- 
wards of 50 watchmakers', and 
70 jewellers' workshops are kept 
in constant employment in the 
town ; and it has been calculated, 



that in good years 75,000 ounces 
of gold, 5 000 marks of silver, and 
precious stones to the value of 
40,oooZ. are used in them. A 
committee of master workmen, 
with a syndic at their head, called 
commission de surveillance, are 
appointed by the government to 
inspect every workshop and the 
articles made in it, to guard 
against fraud in the substitution 
of metals not of legal alloy, and 
thus to prevent any deterioration 
in a branch of industry productive 
of so great an advantage to 
Geneva. 

Respectable Watchmakers— Berguer et 
Fils, 30. Grand Quai; Rossel et Fils, 
Rue du Rhone ; Liardet. A good watch 
costs from 300 to 500 francs. 

At the French custom-house, musical 
snuff-boxes, of Genevese manufacture, 
and watches pay a duty of only 5 fr. each. 
Smuggling, once carried on to an enormous 
extent between the Swiss and French 
frontiers, has greatly diminished, owing to 
the modifications of the French tariff. 

Tlieatricals, for centuries inter- / 
dieted in Geneva by one of the 
austere laws of Calvin, are now 
tolerated, and a Salle de Spectacle 
has been built close to the Porte 
Neuve. It is generally closed in 
summer. 

A Conservatoire de Musique \ 
has been erected on the Place \ 
Neuve. 

Good point of View of the lake 
and Mont Blanc from the ex- 
tremity of the Quai du Mont 
Blanc, or the Isle Jean Jacques 
Rousseau, formerly the Isle des 
Bergues. 

Cemetery of Plain Palais, a 
little way beyond the Porte Neuve. 
Sir Humphry Davy, who died 
here in 1829, and near to him 
Decandolle the botanist, Dumont, 
and Pictet, arc buried. The site 
of Calvin's grave is not known. 

Boulder-stones. — In the bed of 
t 2 



231 



Rte. 53.— LYONS, or MACON, to GENEVA. 



232 



the lake lie many granitic 
boulders, transported from the 
high Alps. Two of these, a short 
distance beyond the port of 
Geneva, and S.E. of the town, 
project above the water. They 
are called Pierres du Niton, from 
a tradition that sacrifices were 
offered upon them to the god 
Neptune by the Bomans. Indeed, 
instruments of sacrifice have been 
found near them. 

Environs of Geneva. 

Omnibuses to Caronge, St. Julien, and 
Ferney, every hr. ; and to Vandocuvres 
and Saconnex 3 times a day. A tramway 
to Carouge also. 

a. Drive to St. Jean — to the 
Junction of the Arve ivith the 
Bhone, best seen from the grounds 
of a country-house (1 fr. ad- 
mission) on the rt. bank of the 
Ehone, ij m. The line of sepa- 
ration between the blue and white 
waters is long and distinctly 
marked. Eeturn by Saconnex 
(Villa Beaulieu, fine cedars), 
Pregny. *Campagne Rothschild — 
the most splendid of villas and 
gardens (view of Mt. Blanc), 
shown Tuesdays and Fridays by 
tickets to be obtained at the 
Inns ; and at Secheron, Sir Eobert 
Peel's villa. This charming drive 
wil] occupy between 2 and 3 hrs. 

b. Ferney, 5 m. N. of Geneva, 
beyond Saconnex, and in the 
French territory, the Chateau of 
Voltaire, where he resided 1 75 9-7 7 
and played the Seigneur, has lost 
most of its associations from the 
changes made by a late owner, 
who discourages visitors. Om- 
nibus from Place Belair every 
hour. 

The Church, originally in- 
scribed " Deo erexit Voltaire/' is 
now a barn. The TJieatre stood 



opposite, in which his own trage- 
dies were acted, but it has been 
pulled down. 

c. Summit of the Saleve (4560 
ft.). The shortest road to it is 
by Carouge and Veyrier (taking 
the junction of the Arve on the 
way : there is a shorter road 
back, 3 m.) ; whence a new carr.- 
road (in place of the old steep 
footpath, called Pas de VEchelle) 
leads up through a gap to Monetier 
(pronounced Monte) 2 J m. The 
carriage-road to [Monetier (Hotel 
and Pension) 1 hr. from the top 
makes a detour of 8 m. from 
Geneva, through Mornex, at the 
back of the mountain. The plea- 
santest way is to be driven to 
Monetier ; thence to walk up the 
Petit or the Grand Saleve ; then 
to descend the Pas de TEchelle to 
Veyrier ; whither the carriage may 
be sent to wait. 

d. Les Voirons, a long ridge 
4480 ft. high, commanding the 
Mt. Blanc range, Lake of G., 
the mtns. of the Grande Char- 
treuse. Inns: Hotel-Chalet, com- 
fortable, and master obliging. 
Pleasant forest walks. Carriage- 
road from Geneva by Boege, 3 
hrs., and Bons, whence steep 
bridle or foot path to the top in 
2 hrs. 

e. To Fort de VEcluse, in 
France, by Lyons rly., to Collon- 
ges Stat., and near Bellegarde 
Stat., same rly., Perte du Ehone, 
Ete. 53. 



233 Bte. 55.— GENEVA to VILLENEUVE. 234 



Rte. 55.— GENEVA to VILLE- 
NEUVE, by LAUSANNE, VE- 
VAY, and CHILLON. LAKE 
of GENEVA. 

a. Railway in 3 hrs.; 5 or 6 times 
a day. 

GENEVA to | h. m. 

h.m. I Chillon . . o 22 
Lausanne . i 50 j Villeneuve . o 17 
Vevay . . o 39 | 

Take rt. seats of rly. carriage. 

b. Steamboat starts from Grand Quai, 
opposite Rousseau's Isle, several times 
daily, along the N. shore, in 3 hrs. to 
Lausanne, and 4 hrs. to Villeneuve. 

Certain steamers touch at Thonon, 
Evian, and Bouvaret, on the S. shore, Rte. 
57. 

The Lake of Geneva (1230 ft.), 
called by the Eomans Lacus Le- 
wi anus, is the largest in Switzer- 
land, being 55 m. long, measured 
close to its N. shore, and 6 m. 
wide at the broadest part. Its 
greatest depth (between Evian 
and Ouchy) is 900 ft. The mean 
height varies 4J ft. ; highest in 
August, owing to the melting- 
snows, but the level of its waters, 
in common with that of other 
large lakes, is liable to abrupt 
changes called seiches, apparently 
due to winds. Under their in- 
fluences the water may rise in one 
part of the lake even to 5 ft. 
Their duration rarely exceeds 
2 hrs. The lake never freezes 
over except near Geneva, and then 
only in severe winters. The sand 
and mud brought down by the 
lihone have encroached upon its 
upper end. Port Valais once 
stood on its margin, and its basin 
is reported to have originally ex- 
tended upwards as far as Bex. 

"Mon lac est le premier" are 
the words in which Voltaire has 
vaunted the Lake of Geneva. 
Though it wants the sublimity of 
the Bay of Uri and the softness 



of the Italian lakes, it has other 
claims to admiration. The scenery 
is varied : the vine-covered slopes 
of Vaud contrast well with the 
rocky precipices of Savoy. Near 
Geneva the hills subside, admit- 
ting a view of Mont Blanc, whose 
snows, though 60 m. distant, are 
often reflected in its waters. At 
its upper end it extends to the 
base of the high Alps, which give 
increased magnificence to its 
scenery. 

Boats are numerous ; the larger 
craft have latteen sails like those 
of the Mediterranean. 

Fish. Trout are rare ; the Lotte, 
on which Kousseau's Julie makes 
her last repast, is described as 
"une espece de barbeau, assez - 
fade, peu cher, et commun." 

Ely. to Lausanne, 6 trains daily, in ii 
to 2? hrs. 
Steamers twice a day, 3 hrs. 

Leaving Geneva, the shores are 
dotted with villas and pleasure- 
grounds. Few spots in Europe 
present so many admirable sites 
for a dwelling as the shores of 
Lake Leman, in full view of 
Mont Blanc and the mtns. of 
Savoy. After a mile or two 
Mont Blanc is hid behind the 
mtns. of Voirons, and does not re- 
appear until near Nyon. 

At Genthod lived Saussure and 
Bonnet. 

Coppet Stat. (Inn : Ange) ; Vill. 8 J m. 
600 Inhab. The Chateau was 
the residence of Madame de Sta 'el, 
the author of Gorinne (see her 
study), as well as of her father, the 
French minister Necker. Bayle 
was tutor here to Count Dohna, 
1670-72. In a clump of trees, sur- 
rounded by a wall, in a field a 
little W. of the house, is a sort of 
chapel in which Necker and his 
daughter are buried. 



235 



Bte. m.—GffltMVA to TIL L EXE WE. 



236 



5Jeq. Nyon Stat. 'Inn: Couronne; 
improved), 2682 Inliab., was the 
Roman Xovidimuni. View from 
the Terrasse dea Marroniers near 
the old chateau. 

The Chateau of Prangins be- 
longs to Prince Xapoleon, formerly 
to Joseph Bonaparte. 

[Excellent carr.-road,in zigzags, 
9 m. to St. Cergues, from which the 
Dole, the highest snmniit of this 
part of the Jura, can be easily 
ascended in 3 hrs. Mules and 
guides at the small Inn of St. 
Cergues Post, TTnion : tolerable 
accommodation for a night.] 

7Jm. Eolle Stat. [Inns : Couronne; 
Tete Noire.) One of the best 
Yaudois wines is grown on la 
Cote, the slope between Eolle and 
Aubonne. View from Signal de 
Bougy, 1 hr. "walk. 

On the opposite shore of the 
lake is the G-ulf of Thonon. 

The snowy head of Mt. Blanc 
peering over the rntns. of the 
Chablais is visible all the way 
froni Xyon to Morges. 
9m. Morges Stat. Inns: H. des 
Alps ; La Couronne.) Castle of 
WuMens, said to have been founded 
by Queen Bertha in the icth cent. 

3§ m. Eussigny June. Stat. 

Ply. from yverdun (Pie. 49^ and Berne. 
Most of the trains from Geneva to Yver- 
dun go on to Lausanne, and then back 
again to Renens or Bussigny. 

View of Lausanne in the dis- 
tance, seated on sloping hills and 
surmoTmted by its cathedral and 

castle. 

{Lausanne Stat, half-way be- 
tween Lausanne and Ouehy, its 
port, upon the shore of the lake. 

Oucluj [Inns: Hotel de Beau- 
rivase, very large, first class : 
Ancre ; Hotel and Pension Bach- 
ormer, good ; both houses kept by 
an English landlady). Lord Byron 



wrote the ' Prisoner of Chillon ' in 
the Ancre inn, in two dot ys, during 
which he was detained here by 
bad weather, June 18 16. 

Omnibuses between Ouehy and Lau- 
sanne, 2 m, in connection with the steam- y 
ers— fare \ fr., or 1 fr. with luggage.] 

rf Lausanne. 4 m. 

'Inns: Faucon, very good: Hotel Gib- 
bon, finer position, good and clean, but 
bustling : Hotel Ricbemont, near the rly. 
stat., a Pension : Bellevue, quiet, reason- 
able, and finely situated ; all these are 
first-class hotels. 2nd Class Luis : H. 
Belvedere; EL du Xord; Raisin; Trois 
Suisses. Hotel du Grand Pont, in the 
town, commercial 

English Ch. service is performed in an 
English chapel built by Mr. Haldimand. 

Post and Diligence office in the Place 
St. Francois, close to H. Gibbon. 

Beading-room, Hignou and Co., 7, Pue 
de Bourg, well supplied with English 
papers and a chculating library. 

Railways to Yverdun (Rte. 49), Geneva, 
and Basle: to Freiburg and Berne (Ete. 
45). Stat, a little below the town, on 
the way to Ouehy. 

Steamboats touch at Ouehy, the port of 
Lausanne, on their way to either ex- 
tremity of the lake. 

Lausanne is the capital of the 
canton Taud, 21 .ccolnhab. (1670 
Eoman Cath.). The Pays de Vaud 
Germ. WaadtLand] was subject 
to the Dukes of Savoy, then con- 
quered by the Bernese, and re- 
mained tributary to them for 250 
years, imtil r;98, when it acquired 
independence. In 1814 it joined 
the Swiss Confederation. The 
constitution was rendered more 
democratic by changes in 1830 
and 1845 ; i s now one °f 

the most revolutionary cantons. 
The language spoken is Frerjch. 
The town, with its high roofs, 
castle, and cathedral, is pictu- 
resquely situated on the lower 
slope of the Mont J or at, which 
sinks gradually to the lake, inter- 
sected" by ravines,, giving it the 
form of distinct eminences. From 
this cause the old streets are a 



237 



Bte. 55.— LAUSANNE. 



238 



series of ups and downs. A cause- 
way and viaduct, called Grand 
Pont, a very noble structure, spans 
the valley from the front of the 
Hotel Gibbon, and a winding road, 
carried on a level along its E. bank, 
renders the centre of the town more 
accessible than formerly. 

The Cathedral and Castle are both on 
the same eminence in the old walled town, 
still called Cite. 

Cathedral (at the foot of the 
flight of steps leading to it from 
the market-place, ask for the keys 
at the sexton's, 7, Escalier du 
Marche), the finest and largest 
Gothic ch. in Switzerland. It was 
founded 1000, but few traces of the 
first ch. remain. The present was 
consecrated by Pope Gregory X., 
1275. It is 333 ft. long, 61 ft. 
high. Obs. the W. and S. portals, 
the circular window in the tran- 
sept, the double gallery running 
round both the central aisle and 
apse at the E. end, portions of 
the fine carved stalls removed 
from the choir. 

Among the Monuments within 
the ch. are a mailed effigy of Otho 
of Granson, whose ancestor, Otto 
de Grandeson, held several im- 
portant offices in England, under 
Henry III. and Edward I.; and 
the tomb of Victor Amedeus VIII. 
(Voltaire's " Bizarre Amedee "), 
who was Duke of Savoy, Bishop 
of Geneva, and Pope under the 
title of Felix V., but resigned in 
succession all these dignities, pre- 
ferring to end his days as a monk 
in the convent of Ripaille, on the 
opposite shore of the lake. It is 
much mutilated. Most of the mo- 
numents were foolishly removed 
from their proper places in 1828. 

View from the terrace at the W. 
end of the Cathedral, partially 
obstructed by the present prison, 
formerly the Archbishop's palace. 



Ascending the hill N. of the 
Cathedral, we reach the 

Chateau, a massive square tower 
with 4 turrets. It was originally 
the residence of the Bishops of 
Lausanne, but is now converted 
into public offices. 

Passing out under the old arch- 
way of the Chateau to the N., you 
may either ascend to the Signal 
(see "Excursions"), which lies 
straight before you, or turn to the 
rt„ and walk along the road at 
the side of the ravine of the Flon 
— a walk which shows the pic- 
turesque buildings of Lausanne to 
advantage — and so return to the 
town. The large handsome build- 
ing on the S. of the Cite is the 
Hospital. 

Lausanne possesses a College, 
founded 1587, near the cathedral. 
Attached to it (open Wed., Sat., 
and Sun., 11-3) is a Cantonal 
Museum, in which are minerals 
from Bex and a model of the salt- 
mines there. It is not deficient 
in the other branches of natural 
history. Antiquities discovered 
within the canton, at Aventi- 
cum, and on the borders of the 
Lake Leman. Napoleon relics, his 
Waterloo saddle, fowling-piece, 
&c, are preserved here. There 
is also a Picture Gallery (Musee 
Arlaud, so named from its 
founder), in a distinct building 
on the Place de Kiponne, op- 
posite the Hal au Ble'. See 
Swiss Land scapes, by Diday and 
Calame. 

Blind Asylum, founded by Mr. 
Haldimand, an Englishman of 
Swiss descent, is admirably ma- 
naged by Mr. Hirzel. 

House of Gibbon, in which he 
completed the History of Rome, 
is pulled down, and his garden 
entirely changed. The wall of 
the Hotel Gibbon occupies the 



239 



Rte. 55.— LAUSANNE. 



240 



site of his summer-house, and the 
berceau walk has been destroyed 
to make room for the garden of 
the hotel; but the terrace over- 
looking the lake, a lime and a few 
acacias, remain. 

" It was on the day, or rather 
the night, of the 27th of June, 
1787, between the hours of 1 1 and 
1 2, that I wrote the last line of the 
last page in a summer-house in 
my garden. After laying down 
my pen I took several turns in n 
berceau, or covered walk of aca- 
cias, which commands a prospect 
of the country, the lake, and the 
mountains. The air was tempe- 
rate, the sky was serene, the silver 
orb of the moon was reflected from 
the waves, and all nature was 
silent." — Gibbons Life. 

Views. — Partial and pleasing 
glimpses of the lake from the ter- 
races within the town, and from 
the fine boulevard of Montbenon, 
just outside the walls, on the old 
road to Geneva ; but far more ex- 
tensive and beautiful prospects 
are presented from the heights 
above the town. 

Excursions. — The neighbour- 
hood of Lausanne is famous for 
its walks. But here, and through- 
out the wine-growing districts, 
strangers must beware of the alleys 
between walls and high hedges. 
Appearing to lead to some point 
of view, they are constantly closed 
at the end by a gate, with a notice 
against trespassers. The law is 
severely enforced against any one 
entering a vineyard without the 
owner's permission. 

Signal, a hill rising 2000 ft. 
above the sea ; it is 3 m. to the 
top ; accessible to carriages. It 
lies nearly N. of the town, directly 
behind the Chateau.. View, Mt. 
Blanc is not seen from it, but the 
panorama of the Savoy Alps S. of 



the lake, of the cliffs of Meillerie, 
of the mouth of the Bhone and the 
mtns. around it in canton Yallais, 
Freiburg, and Yaud, is grand in 
the extreme. Near it is the 
extensive forest of Sauvabellin 
(Silva Belini), in which it is said 
the Druids once worshipped the 
god Bel, and thence its name. 

John Philip Kemble, the tra- 
gedian, is buried in the Cemetery 
of Pierre de Plain, 2 m. on the 
Berne road. 

The Ely. to Sion leaves on L 
the line to Freiburg, which soon 
after crosses a viaduct of 9 arches 
over the Yaudeze, also traversed 
at a lower level by our line. 

Lutry Stat. The river Yevayse 
is crossed. 

Vevay Stat. (Germ. Yivis, the 1 1 
Koman Yibiscum.) 

Inns : Trois Couronnes, or H. Monnet, 
close to the lake : first-class inn ; reading- 
room "well supplied with papers : charges 
not out of proportion with the comfort, 
but the traveller will frequently find it 
full, and the other hotels are far inferior. 
From Oct. 15 to May 1 you may live 
here moderately en pension. H. du Lac, 
small, clean, and comfortable : view over 
lake. Charges : lodging 1 fr. 50 c. ; dinner 
3 frs. ; breakfast 1 to 2 frs. ; servants 50 c. 
The Chateau de Yevay is a respectable 
boarding-house. Pension Victor is good and 
quiet. Above the town, at Chardonnes, is a 
good and reasonable pension, H. Bellevue. 

Yevay, 6538 Inhab., is the se- 
cond town in canton Yaud. It is 
distinguished for its situation on 
Lake Leman, at a point where its 
scenery is most beautiful. The 
writings of Bousseau have contri- 
buted not a little to its celebrity. 
Most of the houses have lately 
had new fronts added towards the 
lake. The very handsome man- 
sion of M. Couvreu, whose gardens 
abounding in southern plants are 
opened to the stranger, will be re- 
marked close to the landing-place. 

View from the little terrace at 



Bte. 55.— VEVAY. 



Abbaye des Vignerons is a so- 
ciety or guild of high antiquity 
to promote the cultivation of the 
vine ; and despatches every spring 
and autumn "experts," qualified 
persons, to survey the vineyards 
of the district, and upon their 
report it rewards the most skilful 
vine-dressers with ■ medals and 
pruning-hooks (serpes d'honneur) 
as prizes. 

Fete des Vignerons. — In accord- 
ance with an ancient custom, 
possibly a relic of paganism, this 
society celebrates once in 15 or 
20 years a fete. 700 persons took 
part in the festival of 1851, and 
one of the ballet-masters of the 
French opera instructed the rus- 
tics in dancing. The last anni- 
versary was in 1865. 

[Horse- path over the Col de 
Jaman, and the road thence to 
Thun (Kte. 42).] 

Leaving Vevay, the rly. passes 
the Castle of JBlonay, which stands 
on a swelling eminence overlook- 
ing the lake. It has belonged 
to the same family for 700 years. 
Farther on is the Castle of Chate- 
lard. Ely. tunnel before. 



the end of the market-place, or 
from the roof of the Trois Cou- 
ronnes ; or, better still, from the 
villa called Hauteville, about 2 m. 
above Vevay. 

Excursions. — Many may be 
made by land or water. Boats at 
1 fr. the hour. Chillon is a morn- 
ing drive (the route may be varied 
by taking the upper road). 

[A pleasant shady road on the 
slope of the hills, above the dusty 
highway, leads in 6 J m. to Mont- 
reux and Chillon.] 

Walks in the immediate neigh- 
bourhood are dull, as the whole 
country consists of vineyards, sur- 
rounded by stone walls higher 
than the pedestrian's head. 

Ch. of St. Martin, a little above 
the town, amidst trees and vine- 
yards, and used only in summer 
(date 1438). Here Ludlow the regi- 
cide is buried, as well as Broughton, 
who read the sentence of death to 
Charles I., Love, and Cavrtey, all 
four republicans. They died here 
in exile, a price having been set 
upon their heads; and repeated 
applications were made to the 
canton of Berne to deliver them 
up, which the government very 
properly refused to accede to. 

English Ch. service in St. Clair at 11 
and 3-30. Physician, Dr. Henri Curchod, 
speaks English. Watchmaker, Prost. 

Omnibus from Vevay to Chexbres Stat, 
to meet the trains from Berne and Frei- 
burg. 

Wines of the neighbourhood of 
Vevay, called Lavaux, enjoy a 
considerable reputation, for Swiss 
wines. The Komans are believed 
to have first planted the vine on 
these hills ; and the discovery of 
a stone inscribed " Libero Patri 
Colliensi" proves that they had 
erected a temple to Father Bac- 
chus at Cully, between Vevay and 
Lausanne. 



Clarens Stat., sentimentally de-3J m. 
scribed by Byron, and by Rous- 
seau in the 'Nouvelle Heloise.' 
View: one of the finest views 
over the lake and the mountains 
of the Rhone valley. 

The swelling hills and vine- 
clad slopes, which form the banks 
of the lake nearly all the way 
from Geneva, here give place to 
crags and woody precipices. 

Vernex Stat (Inn : H. du 1 m . 
Cygne, good, pension 4 fr.) The 
rly. station is Vernex-Montreux. 



Montreux, the centre of a num- 
ber of scattered hamlets all in the 
same parish (2200 Inhab.), is still 



243 



Ate. 55. — MONTBEtJX— CHILLON. 



244 



prettier, in itself and in its situa- 
tion, than Clarens. 

It abounds in pensions, and is much 
frequented by foreigners. The best of 
these is the Pension Yautier, very well 
kept; and the Hotel des Alpes, at the 
hamlet of Territet, 

It is the most sheltered spot 
on the banks of the lake of 
Geneva, and the most desirable 
winter-quarters for invalids who 
cannot cross the Alps. Statistics 
show that Montreux is the place 
in the world where there is the 
smallest proportion of deaths and 
of imprudent marriages ! ! 

English service on Sundays at 
the parish ch. 

[At Glion, f hr. walk or drive, 
directly above Montreux, in a 
comparatively bracing situation, 
2 8 co ft. above the sea-level, are 
more pensions. By far the best 
of these is the Eigi Yaudois ; H. 
du Midi (Keuteler), smaller and 
cheaper.] 
H m. Veytaus Stat. (H. et Pension 
Bonivard), close to the Castle 
of Chillon, which stands most 
picturesquely on an isolated rock 
nearly surrounded by deep water, 
but within a stone's throw of 
the shore and of the road, with 
which it communicates by a 
wooden bridge. Kebuilt nearly 
as we now see it in the latter 
half of the 1 3th centy. by Count 
Peter of Savoy, it was long used 
as a state prison, where, among 
others, many of the early reformers 
were immured. 

Its castle is now a magazine for 
military stores; but the interior 
of the building is well preserved, 
and is interesting. Strangers 
are readily conducted over it, 
There is the potence, a beam, black 
with age, extended across one of 
the vaults, to which the condemned 
were formerly hung. The oubliette 



is also shown, whose only entrance 
was by a trap-door in the floor 
above. There is a small spiral 
staircase of three steps; the pri- 
soner found no fourth step, and 
was precipitated 80 feet. When 
Byron, in the Prisoner of Chillon, 
described the sufferings of an 
imaginary captive, he was not 
acquainted with the history of the 
real prisoner, Bonnivard, prior of 
St". Victor, who, being obnoxious 
to the Duke of Savoy, through his 
exertions to free the Genevese, was 
seized and secretly carried off to 
this castle. For 6 years he was 
imprisoned in its now airy-looking 
dungeon, on a level with the lake. 
The ring by which he was attached 
to one of the pillars still remains, 
and the stone floor at its base is 
worn by his constant pacing to 
and fro. Byron afterwards wrote 
a sonnet on Bonnivard. The 
dungeon of Bonnivard consists 01 
two aisles, almost like the crypt 
of a church ; its floor and one side 
are formed by the living rock, and 
it is righted by several windows, 
through which the sun's light 
passes by reflection from the sur- 
face of the lake up to the roof, 
transmitting partly also the blue 
colour of the waters. Formerly it 
was subdivided into small cells by 
partition walls between the pillars. 
Byron inscribed his name on one 
of the pillars, and his example has 
been followed by many others, as 
Dickens. 

*Hotel Byron stands between 
Chillon and Villeneuve, 10 min. 
walk from either, and a little above 
the lake. It is a large and excel- 
lently managed hotel and pension. 
This is the best stopping-place at 
the E. end of the lake. 

Villeneuve Stat. {Inns: H. Duljin. 
Port, clean and low charges, on 



245 f ttte. 56. — VILLENEUVE to SION. 



246 



the lake; H. Victoria, near the 
stat), an ancient walled town of 
1480 Inhab. (Pennilueus of the 
Eomans), at the E. end of the 
lake, where the road quits it to 
enter the valley of the Rhone. 

Here passengers by the steamers along 
the N. shore disembark and take rly. to 
Sion. 

Valley of the Bhone opens with 
mountain scenery of great gran- 
deur, which reaches its climax at 
the bridge of St. Maurice. The 
river runs through a flat alluvium, 
which itself has deposited in the 
course of ages, but drainage has re- 
redeemed it. The encroachments 
of the land upon the lake have 
been great. Port Valais, Portus 
Valesise of the Romans, in their 
time stood on the lake, but is 
now more than i\ m. inland. 
Upon the plain, at the mouth of 
the Rhone, Divico, the first Helve- 
tian chief mentioned in history, 
defeated, b.c. 107 (the 646th year 
of Rome), the Roman forces under 
Lucius Cassius, slaying their gene- 
ral and compelling his army to 
pass under the yoke. 

Fislirspearing. — It is worth 
while to go out at night and see 
the trout killed in the affluents of 
the Rhone. The fisherman wades 
to his middle, with an oval lan- 
tern, water-tight, having a long 
tube to its top, serving both as a 
handle and as an air-shaft for the 
flame. He plunges the lantern 
into the water, and, when the fish 
are attracted by the light, he 
slowly raises it until the trout, 
who follow, come within reach, 
when he stabs them with his 
knife and sends them dead to the 
bottom, to reappear in a few 
minutes and be thrown into a 
basket on his back. In this way 
a considerable number of fish are 
caught. 



Rte. 5 6 . — VILLEKEU VE to 
SION. 

VILLENEUVE to I h. m. 

h. m. Martigny , o 34 
Bex . . o 35 Sion . . 1 3 
St. Maurice o 12 

Railway from Villeneuve to Sion, thus 
opening direct rly. communication from 
Paris to the foot of the Simplon. 

Take 1. seats of rly. carriage ; though 
the waterfall of the Sallenche and other 
fine views are rt. 

From Villeneuve (Rte. 5 5) the 
rly. goes through the flat valley 
of the Rhone, over fertile and well- 
cultivated fields, overshadowed 
by fine walnut-trees. The sur- 
rounding mountains are of grand 
character, and much of the fine 
scenery is lost to passengers in a 
train. The views up the ravines 
to the 1. are fine. The top of 
the mtn. above Yvorne, 1., was 
thrown down by an earthquake, 
1584. A wine of some reputation 
in Switzerland now grows on the 
slope. 

Aigle Stat. (Inn : Victoria, very q m# 
good), 2650 Inhab. (Aquileia.) 
Black marble is quarried near this. 
The lovely Val des Ormonds opens 
behind Aigle (see Rte. 43). 

Ollon St. Triphon. Stat. Near 3 m . 
this, a square tower, 60 ft. high, 
said to be Roman (?). [The Rhone 
is crossed by a suspension bridge 
to Colombey.J 

Bex Stat, (pronounced Beif). 2h m. 
Buffet. 

Inns: 1'TJnion; H. des Bains: neither 
very good. Pension : Lc Crochet, mode- 
rate. 



247 Bte. 56. — VlLLENEUVE to S10N. 248 



The neighbourhood of Bex abounds in 
pensions and little mountain Inns, where 
fine scenery, pure air, and tolerable living 
are obtained at a very cheap rate. Those of 
Monchalet ii m. above the town, near the 
salt-works; of Madame Bernard above 
Frenieres; the Chalet Amiguet at Che- 
sieres; the house of Madame Rosen at 
Ollon, besides those hereafter noticed, all 
deserve to be mentioned. 

Guides, horses, and chars-a-banc for ex- 
cursions among the mountains may be 
hired at Bex. 

Bex, | m. from the stat. on the 
Avencon (3000 Inhab.), is resorted 
to as a watering-place in summer 
for the sake of its baths of salt 
water and mother liquor (bains 
d'eanx meres), which the chief 
hotels and pensions are furnished 
with from the mines. Above, on 
a wooded height, the Castle and 
round tower of Duin. 

Cemetery. — Charpentier, the 
naturalist, is buried here — his 
tombstone a boulder. 

Salt Mines and Salt Works. 

This popular and attractive excursion 
will take up 4 or 5 hrs. Drive to Devens, 
3 m. N.E., where are the boiling-houses 
for the brine and the evaporating sheds 
for converting the weak liquor into 
brine. Ascend on foot to the mines of 
Bouillet and Fondement; traverse the 
mine with a guide; exit on other side, 
and return to Bex by Bevieux and the 
Monstre Bloc, a large boulder. 

Salt Las been obtained from 
brine-springs here since the mid- 
dle of the 1 6th centy. They 
are now the property of the canton. 
Down to 1823 the brine-springs 
alone furnished the salt, and they 
were gradually failing, when 
M. Charpentier suggested the 
plan of driving galleries into the 
mountain, in search of rock-salt. 
The result was the discovery of a 
rich vein. The annual produce of 
salt is now augmented to 20,000 
or 30,000 quintals. The salt is 
obtained either frorn the brine- 
springs, 6 or 7 of which, of various 



degrees of strength, burst forth in 
different parts of the interior of 
the mountain, steeping the slaty 
clay strongly charged with salt, 
or from the rock-salt, which, after 
being extracted by the help of 
gunpowder, is broken into pieces, 
thrown into large reservoirs, called 
dessaloirs, cut in the interior of 
the mountain, and there dissolved. 
Each reservoir is rilled with water 
3 times. The two first solutions 
(lessivages) furnish a -liquor with 
25 or 26 per cent, of salt; the 
3rd is much weaker, having only 
5 or 6 per cent. The brine, 
containing above 20 per cent, of 
salt, is conveyed in pipes of fir- 
wood to the boiling-house (maison 
de cuite) ; that which is less 
strong must be passed through 
evaporating-houses or maisom de 
graduation ; filled up to the roof 
with stacks of fagots of thorn- 
wood, over which the brine is 
allowed to trickle drop by drop. 
The water is made to ascend and 
descend several times ; it becomes 
stronger each time, and at length 
is fit for boiling in the salt-pans. 

The principal mines are Du 
Fondement and Bu Bouillet ; the 
latter contains a gallery driven 
horizontally for 15 m., 7 J ft. 
high, and 5 ft. wide. At 400 ft. 
froni its entrance is the round 
reservoir, 80 ft. in diameter and 
1 o ft. deep, excavated in the rock, 
without any support to its roof, 
In it the weak water is collected, 
to undergo the process of gra- 
duation. A little farther on is 
another reservoir, supported by 
pillars to hold the stronger brine 
fit for the salt-pans without under- 
going any intermediate process. 
(See Moutiers, Salt-works, Bte. 
156.) 

Minerals. — Beautiful specimens 
are obtained from the salt-mines 



249 Bte. 56. — VILLENEUVE to SION. 250 



of Bex, such as very clear crystals 
of selenite, muriacite, anhy- 
drite, &o. 

Excursions from Bex. 

a. Salt-works, described above. 

b. By Col de la Croix to les 
lies at the head of the Val des 
Ormonds, passing Grion (a rustic 
Inn), and the Chalet de Villard, 
a pension recommended for its 
beautiful position and good ac- 
commodation, not, however, equal 
to that at the Hotel des Dia- 
blerets. {See Kte. 43.) 

c. To Col de Cheville, at the 
foot of the Diablerets. (Bte. 58.) 

d. Starting early from Bex, a 
good mountaineer might ascend 
to the small glacier de Martinet. 
*View of the Alps, from below 
the topmost crags of the Dent 
de Morales (9513 ft.) 

The rly. from Bex continues 2 
m. along the fertile plain, then 
crosses the Rhone and joins the 
rly. from Bouvaret (Kte. 5 7) at a 
spot where the valley is almost 
closed by a rocky barrier. The 
Dent du Midi, on one side, and 
Dent de Morcles on the other, 
approach so close that there is 
barety room for the Rhone to 
pass between their base. Roads 
and rlys. are cut through the 
rocks, and in the midst of some 
of the finest scenery in Switzer- 
land the river is spanned by the 
single-arched 

Bridge of St. Maurice, b. 15 th 
centy., but may possibly rest on 
Roman foundations. It unites 
the canton Vaud with the canton 
Valais, and a gate at one end, 
now removed, formerly closed the 
passage up and down. Forts de- 
fend this puss, erected [832. 

The rly. is carried past the old 



bridge, through a tunnel in the 
rock, to reach 

St. Maurice Junct. Stat. (Inns : 2 J m. 
Ecu de Valais; Dent du Midi) 
(the passenger in the train sees 
little of the beauty of the scenery), 
a town of 1 5 43 Inhab. (the Roman 
Agaunum), squeezed in between 
the mountain and the 1. bank of 
the Rhone. It owes its name to 
the tradition that the Theban 
Legion under St. Maurice were 
martyred here by order of Max- 
imian, a.d. 302. 

Abbey, the oldest Christian 
foundation among the Alps, f. in 
the 4th cent, in honour of St. 
Maurice, richly endowed by Sigis- 
mund King of Burgundy, was 
celebrated for many centy s. It 
still retains a fine library, with old 
MSS. and other works of ancient 
art, well worth seeing. Treasury, 
various curiosities of value. 

Rly. falls in from Bouveret, Rte. 57, in 
connection ivith the steamers on the 
French side of Lake of Geneva. 

£Baths ofLavey, on opposite side 
of Rhone, sulphureous waters.] 

N. D. du Sax, a hermitage on 
a platform of rock, rises rt., high 
above the rly. 

Evionaz Stat. In the autumn of 4 m. 
1835, a torrent of mud descended, 
rt. near here, from the Dent du 
Midi. It cut a passage for itself 
through the forest, snapping trees 
like twigs, and covered the high 
road for 900 ft. It swept slowly 
downwards like a lava-current. 
Blocks of limestone were carried 
along with it. The stream con- 
tained scarcely i-ioth part of 
water. Evionaz occupies the site 
of an old town, Epaunum, de- 
stroyed by a similar mud- torrent 
in 563. This part of the valley 
has a dreary aspect, from the traces 
of the terrible flood of r 85 2. 



251 



Bte. 56. — MABT1GNY. 



252 



bordered by bold mtns. Above it 
rises the tall round tower of La 
Bdtie Castle (n8 ft.), built by- 
Peter of Savoy, 1268. Its bridge is 
one of the finest specimens of the 
Swiss covered wooden bridges, 
with the arch above the roadway. 
Monks of St. Bernard have their 
head-quarters in a convent within 
the town, from which the mem- 
bers stationed on the Great St. 
Bernard are relieved at intervals. 
[To the monastery of Gt. St. 
Bernard, 10 hrs. (Kte. 135). To 
Chamouni 7 or 8 hrs. by the Tete 
Noire (Rte. 141), or Col. deBalme 
(Rte. 142). The Forclaz and the 
beautiful view from it is an easy 
walk. 

Pierre a Voir (8123 ft.). (See 
Panorama.) Its ascent is an 
easy and striking excursion, 5 J 
hrs. to ride up, only 3 hrs. 
down, if the last part of the 
descent is made on sledges, kept 
for the purpose. 2 persons sit in 
a sledge; a guide acts as horse, 
and runs down with it over 
the grass. Hotel near the top. 
Good mule-path all the way. 
View, panoramic and grand. 
Guide 8 fY., mule 8 fr. It can be 
ascended equally well, or better, 
from Saxon les Bains, which lies 
at its foot.] 

At Martigny the Ehone makes 
a bend at right angles. For many 
miles the valley is a flat swamp, 
plagued with gnats, and unwhole- 
some owing to floods of the Rhone. 
The inhabitants are afflicted with 
goitre, cretinism, ague, and de- 
crepitude. A tolerable wine, called 
Coquempin, is grown upon the 
hills. 

Bail to Sion. Trains in 50 
min. 



3Jm. Vernayaz Stat. (Inn, Croix 
Blanche). Travellers should stop 
here to visit the Waterfall of 
Sallenche, i| m., and the gorge 
of the Trient, § m. from stat. 
The Waterfall of the Sallenche is 
120 ft. high. It is a fine object, 
both from its volume and height, 
visible for a considerable distance 
up and down. Iris over it before 
12. 

Trient river descends rt. from 
the Tete Noire (Bte. 141), and 
issues from a singular rent in the 
side of the valley, 350 ft. deep. 
There is a good mule-path up it 
(see Bte. 141) converging upon 
the usual Tete Noire rte. By all 
means see this gorge, not unlike 
that of PfefTers, which is made 
accessible from below by a scaf- 
folding of planks, f m. long, car- 
ried up it. 

[By mule-path in 4 hrs. to the Bar- 
berine Hotel on the way to Chamouni 
(Rte. 141). Splendid scenery.] 

On the outskirts of Martigny, 
upon a commanding rock, rises the 

Castle of La Batie (irreverently 
likened by the late Albert Smith 
to " an insolvent lighthouse "), 
formerly a stronghold of the arch- 
bishops of Sion. 

2Jm. Martigny Stat, more than a 
mile from the town — • ( Inns : 
Grande Maison, good and reason- 
able ; La Tour, oldest and still the 
best ; Hotel Clerc ; Cygne) — (Oc- 
todurus of the Romans, 1558 ft.) — 
consists of, a. Martigny proper, 
and b. Bourg de Martigny, 1 m. off, 
up the valley of the Dranse. It is 
an uninteresting place, plagued 
with touters and with gnats; 
but of importance, because it 
lies at the beginning of the char- 
road over the grand St. Bernard, 
and the mule-paths from Cha- 
mouni. The flat, open valley is 



Saxon les Bains Stat, a water- 5 J m. 
ing-place, whose springs contain 



255 



Ete. 56. — VILLENEUVE to SION. 



256 



iodine and bromine. Fair accom- 
modation, en pension. 

3 m. Riddes Stat. After crossing 
the Khone the castles of Sion 
appear in sight, rt. 
3 J m. Ardon Stat, at the mouth of the 
Vale of the Lizerne. Here are 
iron-works. 

[Hence the Haut de Cry (9698 
ft.) 1. may be ascended. A deplor- 
able accident happened here Feb. 
28, 1864. An English gentleman 
with a Russian friend and 4 guides 
were climbing it, when suddenly 
the snow-field on which they were 
standing gave way above them, 
along a belt of enormous length. 
The huge avalanche slid down, 
tumbling the travellers with it. 
Mr. G. was once overwhelmed, 
then cast to the surface, and again 
buried. When the snow in front 
of him came to rest, the snow be- 
hind still continued in movement, 
pressing with barely supportable 
pressure, and so " regelated " into 
solid ice. He was thus rigidly 
imbedded to the wrists of his up- 
lifted arms, and was fast suffo- 
cating. With great effort, he 
scratched and blew the snow 
from above his mouth, and ulti- 
mately he was extracted frost- 
bitten. His Russian companion 
was killed, and also Joseph Ben- 
nen, — the very best of all Swiss 
guides, the leader in numerous 
first ascents, the companion of 
Prof. Tyndall.] 

4Jm. Sion Stat (Germ. Sitten) — 
Inns: Poste, landlord civil ; Lion 
d'Or. There is a comfortable 
pension 2 minutes' walk from Sion, 
kept by Madame Muston (Pro- 
testant). A torrent, the Sionne, 
is carried in a canal boarded over 
through the main street, hence 
called Grand Pont. Sion has 
3 extensive castles, which give the 



town a feudal aspect ; viz. : Tour- 
billon, seen on the 1. when arriving 
from Martigny, b. 1492, and long 
the bishop's residence, is now a 
rain. The view from it is fine, 
20 min. walk. Valeria, the castle 
on the southern rock, serves as a 
Catholic seminary. It contains 
the Ch. of St. Catherine, 9th cent. 
It has a perfect roodloft of the 
1 3 th cent. , and old frescoes. ( The 
present Cathedral is in the town 
below.) The third castle is called 
Majoria, from the majors, or an- 
cient governors of the Valais, its 
first occupants. To reach it you 
pass through a ruined quarter of 
the town, laid in ashes 1788. In 
the midst rises the present Bishops 
Palace. Jesuits' convent, sup- 
pressed 1848, contains a collection 
of the natural history of the 
Valais. 

Sion (4200 Inhab.) is the capital 
of the Valais (Germ. Wallis), one 
of the most miserable districts 
in northern Europe. It was for- 
merly flourishing, as the remains 
at Sion and Visp attest. In the 
16th centy. Matthew Schinner 
Bishop of Sion, was a powerful 
prince, whose alliance was courted 
by the sovereigns of Europe — 
principally, it is true, to procure 
the services of Swiss merce- 
naries. At present, with the 
exception of the hotels, nothing 
appears prosperous in the Valais. 
The race of men seems to have 
deteriorated. It is said that Sion 
has been besieged and taken more 
than 30 times, and, like many 
Swiss towns, it has been burnt 
nearly down. 

[Difficult mule-path over the mtns. to 
Bex, passing the Diablerets (Rte. 58). 

S. of Sion the Vol d'Erin stretches far 
into the', main-chain of the Alps (Rtes. 
129, 131).] 

The Railway is finished as far as 

Sierre Stat. (Germ. Siders) {Inns : 



257 Rte. 57.— GENEVA to MARTIGNY, through CHABLAIS. 258 



Soleil ; Pension Baur, outside the town. 
Mont Bonoin, a village with 1095 Inhab. 
Iron furnaces; good Muscatel wine 
grown here (Simplon, see Rte. 59). 

Omnibus daily in summer to Leuker- 
bad (Bains de Loeche) (Rte. 37) in 7 hrs. 

The Railway ends here at present. 

Diligence to Brieg twice a day, starting 
on arrival of the trains. To Visp in 5 
hrs. ; to Brieg in 6 hrs. 



Rte. 5 7. —GENEVA to MAR- 
TIGNY, by THONON and 
MEILLERIE, along the South 
Shore of the LAKE of GENEVA. 

M. M. 

GENEVA to Bouveret . .13 

French Frontier 7 St. Maurice Rly. 14 

Thonon . .14 St. Martigny Rly. 9 
Evian ... 6 

Steamers leave Geneva twice a day, to 
Bouveret in 4 or 5 hrs., to correspond 
with the midday and evening trains. 
They touch at Thonon and Evian. Post- 
road from Geneva to Bouveret, 40 Eng. m. 

Rail. — Bouveret to St. Maurice, 4 
trains, in f hr., and Martigny. 

Take rt. seats of rly. carriage. 

This is the original Sirnplon 
road, but is now almost deserted, 
though from Evian to Bouveret 
the scenery is finer than that of 
the N. shore. Remember that 
this route lies through French 
territory (custom-house and pass- 
port). 

7 m. French Frontier, formerly the 
ancient province of Chablais. 
A monotonous plain is traversed. 

13m. Thonon (Inns: H. de l'Eu- 
rope, adjoining the Terrace; 
Les Balances), an ancient town 
of 4825 Inhab., originally capital 
of the Chablais. 

1 m. Ripaille, 1., between the road 
and the lake, originally an Augus- 
Kp. Switz. 



tine convent, by the side of which 
Amedeus VIII. of Savoy built a 
castle, scanty ruins of which 
remain ; here he passed the 
latter portion of his life, having 
assumed the cowl of an Augus- 
tine monk. He abdicated, in 
turn, the dukedom of Savoy, the 
Papacy (into which he had been 
installed with the title of Felix 
V.), and the bishop's see of 
Geneva. He resided here after 
his second abdication, passing his 
time not in the austere penance 
of an anchorite, but, according to 
the popular belief, in ease, feast- 
ing, and dissipation. Hence the 
French proverb — " Faire Ri- 
pailie." 

Bridge of 24 arches over thelni. 
Dranse, a torrent from the mtns. 
of Chablais, and augmented in 
summer to a large volume by the 
melting snows. 

[Char-road up the valley of the 
Dranse by some gypsum-works, 
after which it passes numerous 
villages to La Vernaz (3 hrs.), 
and by the ruins of the Abbey of 
Aulph to Morzine, 7 hrs. from 
Thonon. Ascending from thence 
nearly due S., either by the Col 
de Jouxplane or the Col de Goleze, 
to Samdens (Croix d*Or) in the 
Val de Sixt (Rte. 143), through 
beautiful sceneiy, in 3 J hrs. At 
the Chalets de la Goleze, S. of the 
summit (about 5 600 ft.), refresh- 
ment and indifferent night-quar- 
ters in case of need. 

To Tanninges (Rte. 143), by 
St. Jean d' Aulph and Gets. A 
rough char-road (10 hrs.). 

To Mcmthey on the rly. to Mar- 
tigny from Morzine, either by the 
Col de Coux (see Rte. 144), or by 
the Col de Champery, which 
enters the Val d'lllicz below the 
village of Champe'ry. 

K 



2o9 



Bte. 57.— GENEVA to MAETIGNY. 



260 



Two other passes — the Col de 
Chesery, from Montriond below 
Morzine, and the Col dVAbon- 
dance, reached by the E. branch 
of the Dranse, lead to Margin (an 
Inn with mineral baths), and 
from thence in 2} hrs. to Mon- 
tliey\1 

Through groves of magnificent 
chestnut-trees we pass 

1J m. Amphion (Inn : H. de Casino), 
a watering-place frequented by 
the Genevese, where are baths 
supplied by a chalybeate spring, 
and reach 

3m. Evian (Inns: H. des Bains, 
good ; H. Fonbonne, near the lake 
and steamboats; H. du Nord; 
Poste), a town of 3000 Inhab., at 
the water-side, resorted to for its 
mineral alkaline waters. Dr. C. 
Depraz, resident physician, may 
be trusted. He served in the 
Crimea on our medical staff. 

Steamers twice a day to Ouchy. 

Excursion— -Tip the Yal d'Abon- 
dance to the Charlreau abbey, 
6 hrs. 

6Jm. Recks of Meillerie, celebrated 
by Bousseau and Byron, were 
blasted to form the road of the 
SinijDlon, carried partly through 
them, partly on a terrace 30 or 
40 ft. above the lake. Previous 
to its construction, the little vil- 
lage of Meillerie was barely ac- 
cessible except by boats. 

France-Swiss Frontier at 

4 J in. St. Gringolph (Inn: Poste, an 
enormous building, once a con- 
vent, not good). Mosquitoes very 
troublesome all along the S. shore 
of the Lake. A deep ravine here 
divides Savoy from the Swiss 
territory of the Valais ; travellers 
entering from the Valais are sub- 
jected to French custom-house 
regulations here. 



Bouveret Stat (Inn: La Tour). 2 
Terminus of the rly. to Sion. The 
lake steamers set down passengers 
for the rly. on the wharf. It lies 
at the mouth of the valley of the 
Ehone, here a broad, flat, dreary 
swamp (Ete. 56). 

Railway. 4 trains daily : to St. Maurice, 
f nr. ; to Martigny, ii nr. ; to Sion, if nr. 

Near Port Valais the Helve- 
tian Divico defeated the Romans, 
b.c. 104. 

Porte du Sex, the rocks on the 
rt. encroach so far upon the Ehone 
as barely to leave a passage for 
the road. A fort with loopholes 
for arrows, and embrasures for 
cannon, effectually closed this 
entrance to the Valais, the only 
passage being over its drawbridge 
and through its gate. Bridge over 
the Ehone. [Eoad across bridge, 
to Villeneuve on the opposite side 
of the Ehone by Chessel and 
Noville, across the plain strewed 
with hillocks and debris of lime- 
stone, the remains of a landslip 
from the Grammont ( 7000 ft. high), 
on the 1. bank of the Ehone (a.d. 
563).] 

Vouvry Stat, a good country 4 
Inn. 

i Vionnaz. Remarkable boulders 
lie above it. 

Canal of Stockalper, running 
nearly parallel with the rly. to- 
wards Sion, was cut in 1 8th cent, 
to drain the valley. 

No bridge over Ehone near 
Columbey, to St. Tryphon Stat. 
(See Balls Guide.) 

Monthey Stat. (Inn: Croix 6f 
d'Or, good, clean, and moderate). 
[The village is 10 min. from the 
station. Behind it is the Yal 
dTlliez, extending alongside the 
Dent du Midi, char-road bad. In 



261 Bte. 58. — BEX to SION— COL de CHEV1LLE. 2G2 



its upper part is (2| hrs.) Cham- 
pery {Inns: H. de la Dent du 
Midi, good, 90 beds ; pension, 5 J 
firs, a day ; — Croix Federale). It 
cuts off the great angle made by 
the Rhone valley at Marti gny. 
Guides 6 frs. a day, ordinary 
tours. Walks beautiful : a. Croix 
de Culet, 3 hrs., fine view of D. du 
Midi ; b. Up the Vieze to Chalets 
de Balma, 2 hrs. ; c. Chalets de 
Bonnaveau, 2 hrs. ; descend to a 
bridge near a fine fall ; back to 
Champery, 2 hrs. (Rte. 144).] 

Owing to an abrupt bend in 
the valley, and a projecting rock 
which hides the upper portion 
from view, the road comes sud- 
denly upon 

Si m. St. Maurice Junct Stat (Rte. 
56). 

9 m. Martigny Stat (Rte. 56). 



Rte. 58.— BEX to SIGN, by 
the COL BE CHEVILLE— 
DIABLEKETS. 

BEX to Hrs. 

Grion, carr.-road 25 

Anzieiidas Chalets j ( 3 

Cheville Chalets . ( «... n I 
Ch. of St. Bernard Bndle P ath 2* 
Sion ... J I 2f 



Sleep at Grion; or go there by char 
from Bex before daylight. 8 fr., excellent 
road. It appears possible for a char to go 
to Soulalex. Side-saddles at Grion. Mule 
thence to the Col 1 fr., 1 fr. bonnemain. 
There is little advantage in taking a 
mule beyond the Col, as it could scarcely 
be used between the Col and A vent, 
where mules are to be found. Guide 
12 fr. to Sion, but a pedestrian well accus- 
tomed to mtns. can find the way without 
a guide. The only part where a guide 
may be needed is between the col and 
the bridge over the Lizerne through the 
ruins of the landslip. 

This is an interesting pass, 
both from its Berg-fall (or moun- 
tain-slip), and for its extreme 



picturesqueness. From Grion to 
Avent (about 9 hrs. each way) 
there is no Inn : this is probably 
why the whole region of the 
Diablerets, though yielding to 
few in ruggedness and in views 
over the Alps, has been neglected. 

Bex (1427 ft.) (Rte. 56). 
Thence the carriage-road follows 
the river for a mile to 

Bevieux (salt-works, Rte. 56), 
where it ascends the heights on 
its N. side. Old mule-track cuts 
ofT the tedious zigzags of the 
modern road. Part of the way is 
beautifully shaded by woods of 
fir, beech, or walnut, and part is 
through vineyards and fields. 

Grrion, prettily situated on 2| hrs. 
the slope of the mountain, high 
above the river, is a regular Swiss 
village. There are 2 homely but 
cheap Inns (Croix Blanche, best) 
and a boarding-house, where as 
many as 50 persons are accom- 
modated in the season. The 
situation is healthy, goitre and 
cretins unknown. 

Bridle-path begins. — The road 
is now tolerably level, and keeps 
high above the river, running E. 
through beautiful pastoral scenery. 

Bridge, 1 J hr. from Grion. 1J hr. 

Woods fine and shady for 20 m.; 
then the road crosses the stream ' 
again, and reaches 

Soulalex chalets, in a green 1 hr. 
plain with spruce firs all round, 
and tremendous precipices above 
the firs. 

Ascent up a narrow ravine 
somewhat to the 1. to 

Anzendas, or Enzemdas (6224 1J hr. 
ft.), chalets, 011 tolerably level 
ground. Here it is possible to 
sleep, and usually to find bread 
and wine, besides milk. 

k2 



263 Bte. 58.— BEX to SIGN — DIABLERETS. 264 



[Diablerets (10,670 ft.) can be 
ascended from Grion, sleeping 
one night at the chalets of A11- 
zeindas : guides at Grion.] 

Hence a moderate ascent over 
green pasture under the preci- 
pices of the Diablerets leads to 

fhr. Col de Cheville (6630 ft.). 
From the mound, rt. of the Col, 
view of the great chain of the Alps 
to Monteleone. S.W. are the bare 
peaks of the Tete de Gros Jean 
and Grand Moevran. 

Descent from the Col turns first 
rt., then 1., and is rugged ; there 
is no particular path, but it is not 
easy to miss the way. 

i hr. Chalets de Cheville, on a tole- 
rably level space covered with 
rocky fragments. Along the 
stream for a short distance, and 
then down a steep descent, through 
trees, across a bridge, to W., and 
then along S. shore of the small 

Jhr. Lac de Berber enze (471 1 ft.), 
and the chalets of the same 
name. The valley is nearly filled 
with the wreck of 

s Mt. Diablerets. Three of its 
five peaks have already fallen, 
and the two which remain 
threaten to follow. The moun- 
tain is rent with fissures, and 
scarcely an hour passes in which 
a slight noise is not heard or 
a fragment of stone does not 
fall. The debris of the intn. covers 
a space of 8 m. The traveller 
will be reminded strongly of a 
Cirque in the P}^renees. This 
mtn. is of limestone strata, de- 
ranged and steeply inclined. The 
lower beds, being soft and shaly, 
are disintegrated by the infiltra- 
tion of water descending from the 
glaciers on the N.E. After -the 
foundations are thus removed, 
large masses are detached, form- 



ing eboulemens of a tremen- 
dous kind. Two occurred in 1714 
and 1749. By the former, 15 
people, 100 cattle, and 55 cha- 
lets were buried. Subterranean 
noises gave warning for days be- 
forehand, so that most of the 
peasants removed out of the way. 
One man belonging to A vent was 
overwhelmed in a chalet, but 
escaped being crushed by two 
masses of rock forming an angle 
over it. He lived upon a store 
of cheese, laid up for winter, and 
on water from a brook which 
found its way through the fallen 
rocks. After weeks in the dark, 
he at length, by creeping and 
scratching, formed a passage 
through which a gleam of daylight 
apjDeared, and he succeeded in 
working his way out, after having 
been lost for 3 months. At the 
moment of the fall, the surround- 
ing district shook as with an 
earthquake, a thick cloud of dust 
rose high into the air, masses of 
rock were hurled 6 m., and the 
current of air produced by it 
threw down trees which were not 
touched by the fall itself. The 
fall of 1749 arrested the course 
of the Liserne, and formed the 
little lake of Derborenze. 

The path now traverses a 
wilderness of rubbish and fallen 
rocks; care is required to keep 
the track. It winds round the 
mtn. to the rt., and crosses a 

Small bridge over the Liserne, § hr. 
below the convergence of 3 tri- 
butary streams ( v there are chalets 
i hr. above it to the N E.). This 
is an important point to hit in 
the back rte. from Sion. Rocks 
and stunted firs. 

Road ascends high above the J hr. 
river, still keeping along its 



265 



Bte. 59.— PASSAGE of the SIMPLON. 



266 



gorge. The path becomes a mere 
ledge for 2 m., sometimes cut out of 
the rock, sometimes built up, and 
overhanging precipices of 1200 ft. 
down to the Liseme, roaring in 
the chasm below. Though there 
is no danger, the path is narrow 
and far more formidable than that 
of the Gemmi. 

Beechwoods, still on a steep 
slope to the 

ljhr. Chapel of S. Bernard (3543 
ft.), a little building visible from 
the Bridge over the Morge {see be- 
low), View of the great chain of 
the Alps. The valley of the Li- 
serne is now left. The path turns 
to the E., and descends rapidly in 
full view of the Bhone Valley. 

i hr. Avents village. The first houses 
on the road, since Derborenze. 

[From St. Severin byways lead 
direct to Sion, avoiding the dusty 
post-road.] 

fhr. Conthey (1673 ft.) {Inn). 

J hr. Bridge over Morge, on the high 
road of the Simplon. [Take dili- 
gence or char thus far from Sion, 
on the return route.] 2 J m. to 

Ardon Stat 

lhr. Sion (1709 ft.) (Rte. 56). 



Rte. 58A.-SI0N to EVO- 

LENA, in VAL d'HERENS. 

Beautiful scenery. Good mule- 
path. Cross the bridge over the 
Rhone below or to S. of Sion. 

l^lir. Vex. Small Inn, 

2| hrs. Chalets dc Brajean. 

1 hr. Small chapel. 

2 hrs. Evolena (H. de la Dent 
Blanche, good). {See Rte. 130.) 



Rte. 59.— PASSAGE of the 
SIMPLOK. SION to BRIEGr, 
and to DOMO B'OSSOLA. 

Sion to Brieg in 5 or 6 hrs. Well- 
appointed diligences 3 times a day. 
(Railway to Sierre.) Thence diligences 
twice daily to Domo d'Ossola, and to 
Arona, where rly. runs to Milan. 

In summer the heat of the 
Rhone valley, with the glare of 
the sun and the dusty road, often 
render this route disagreeable, 
while in August the road is some- 
times flooded by the river; but 
the mountain ranges which bound 
the valley are interesting. 

Sion (1709 ft.) is described in 
Rte. 56. Vol a" Erin (Germ. Erin- 
gerthal) opens out to the rt. 

Sierre Stat. (Germ. Siders). — 10 m. 
Inns: Soleil (Post), good; H. 
Baur, just beyond the town, 
good. 

[1. To Leulcerbad (baths of Lo- 
co he) 3 J hrs. by a steep mule-path 
(Rte. 37), avoiding the detour by 
Susten.] 

Val d'Anniviers (Germ. Ein- 
fischthal) opens out rt. [To 
ascend this Val to St. Luc (4 
hrs.) follow the, Simplon road 
towards Visp to 7 min. beyond 
the bridge over the Rhone. There 
take the road to rt., and after 
a few paces ascend the hill by 
the path on the left. This path 
leads along the rt. bank of the 
Val to Vissoye, its principal town, 
but after about 2 hrs. from Sierre 
it must be left, and the bridle- 
path on the 1., through the wood 
and above the char-road, must be 
taken. Beautiful scenery. For 
excursions from St. Luc, see Rte. 
129.] 



267 



Rte. 59.— PASSAGE of the SIMPLON. 



268 



1 m. Bridge across the Rhone. The 
road winds among irregular hil- 
locks. 

3 m. Pfynn ( = ad fines) is on the 
boundary between the German 
language, which prevails above 
this, and beyond the source of the 
Rhone, and the French) which is 
spoken below. 

2m. Susten (Inn: small but com- 
fortable^, opposite the picturesque 
castellated town of Leuk (Inn, 
Krone), situated at the mouth of 
the gorge of the Dala. 

[To Leukerbacl, L, 3 hrs. car- 
riage-road (Rte. 3 7) ; thence over 
the Gemmi Pass bridle-path.] 

5jm. Turtman (Fr. Tourtemagne) 
(Inns : Poste ; Soleil). The 
Temenica of medieval records. 
Cascade, 15 minutes' walk behind 
the inn ; its volume is consider- 
able, and its height 150 ft. The 
scene is interesting for its seclu- 
sion. 

[Up Turtman Thai to Gruben 
(Rte. 129) ; thence various passes.] 

9 m. Visp or Yispach (Fr. Viege) 
(Inns: Soleil best; Post : both good, 
but plagued with flies). A poor 
village (2362 ft.) at the entrance 
of the Visper-Thal, up which 
the Balferinhorn and its gla- 
ciers are seen. Tendency to 
malaria here during autumn. 
Visp was once the seat of many 
noble families. Then large houses 
are now inhabited by poor people. 
Its lands have greatly suffered 
from floods of the Visp and 
Rhone, whose artificial beds are 
raised above the plain. Earth- 
quakes lasting for months during 
1855 shook and cracked its ch. 
tower and many houses. Nearly 
all the inhabitants left the town 
and encamped during that time. 



[To Zermatt; to Saas (Rte. 
127). The heat of the lower part 
of the Zermatt valley is so great 
in the morning that pedestrians 
do well not to sleep at Visp, but 
to push on 1 hr. to Stalden, 
where there is a comfortable 
rustic Inn ; or to St. Nicholas, if 
they have time.] 

Views 1. of the Nesthorn and 
the fine range of peaks in its 
neighbourhood are occasionally 
to be had, as the road passes 
opposite the narrow glens that 
open into that little-visited 
range. 

G-lys. The ascent of the Sim- 5 in. 
plon originally began at Glys, a 
village distinguished by its old 
Byzantine church and charnel- 
house filled with skulls — 10,000 
at a rough computation. Now, 
however, the rte. makes a detour 
of about 1 m. to pass through 

Brieg (2460 ft.) (Inns : Poste ; 1 m. ' 
— H. d'Angleterre, clean and 
good ; H. du Simplon). Brieg is 
the usual halting-place of travel- 
lers before or after crossing the 
Simplon. Those who wish to 
see the scenery of the Simplon 
will sleep at Brieg and take the 
dcM/-diligence. It is a small town 
of 75 1 Inhab., on a sunny slope by 
the side of the Saltine, and over- 
looking the course of the Rhone, 
which here makes a sharp bend. 
The most conspicuous buildings 
are, the Chateau of the family 
Stockalper, whose 4 turrets are 
crowned with tin cupolas, and the 
Jesuits' College, suppressed 1847. 
There is also an Ursuline Convent. 

For voituriers, &c, across the Simplon, 
see below. 

[Excursions. — To the Bel Alp. To 
Viesch and the iEggischhorn. To Ober- 
gestelen. Carr.-road all the way to 
Hospital on the St. G-otthard, over the 
Furca; Omnibus to Oberwald. For all 
these see Rte. 28.] 



269 



Bte. 59.— PASSAGE of the SIMPLON. 



270 



Brieg over the Simplon to Domo 
D'Ossola. 

Hrs. on foot 
BBIEGr to Miles. (fast). 

Beresal ... 9 . 2I 
Summit ... 5^ . if 
Simplon ... 6 . ii 
Isella . q . 2f 

Crevola ... 8 .2 
Domo d'Ossola .3 .1 

The diligence takes 11 hrs., viz. 7I to 
Simplon, j£ to Domo. 

On foot the distance may be shortened, 
but it will require full n£ hrs. steady 
walking. N.B. In September the dili- 
gence does not reach the finest part of the 
pass till dark. 

Voituriers charge from 60 to 70 fr. 
from Brieg to Domo. 

Travellers sending luggage into Italy 
by the diligence must consign it at the 
Post-office on the evening before. The 
keys must be tied to the outside of each 
piece of luggage, otherwise it will be de- 
tained at the Italian custom-house at 
Isella. Notwithstanding all precautions, 
luggage frequently goes wrong. 

Construction of . the Simplon 
road was decided upon by Napo- 
leon immediately after the battle 
of Marengo, while the recollection 
of his own difficult passage of the 
Alps by the Great St. Bernard (at 
that time one of the easiest Alpine 
passes) was fresh in his memory. 
It was a stupendous result of 
engineering skill at the date of 
its construction, but the gigantic 
works of modern times have 
equalled and surpassed it. Vieivs 
of the Oberland mtns. from the 
Simplon route fine. It has one 
eminently grand scene, namely, 
the gorge of Gondo, and the 
entrance into Italy is more strik- 
ing by this than by any other 
carriage -pass. 

Engineering. — The surveys, and 
in part the road, were made by M. 
Ceard. It took 6 years to com- 
plete. More than 30,000 men 
were employed on it at one time. 
The number of bridges, great and 



small, amounts to 611, in addition 
to the far more costly construc- 
tions, such as terraces of masonry, 
miles in length; of 10 galleries, 
either quarried or built ; and of 
20 houses of refuge to shelter tra- 
vellers, and lodge the labourers 
constantly employed in taking- 
care of the road. Its breadth is 
never less than 25 ft., and the 
slope nowhere exceeds 1 in 1 3 . 

. Its cost averaged 5000Z. a mile. 
In England the average cost of 
turnpike roads is 1000Z. per mile. 
The object of Napoleon in its 
formation is well marked by the 
question which, on two different 
occasions, he first asked of the 
engineer sent to him to report pro- 
gress — " Le canon quand pourra- 
t-il passer au Simplon ? " 

From Brieg the ascent begins 
immediately. In J m. the road 
is joined by the old and more 
direct route from Glys, that 
avoids Brieg. The Saltine is 
the river crossed by the old road. 
It descends from the side of 
the upper part of the Simplon 
route. [Pedestrians who aim at 
the shortest cut may follow 
the Saltine by an almost dis- 
used horse-track; but the way 
is, or was, ill-marked, and an un- 
practised mountaineer without a 
guide might easily fall into serious 
difnculty.] The road now makes 
a wide sweep, turning away from 
the Glyzhorn, which bounds the 
valley on the rt., and approaching 
a little hill dotted with white 
chapels and crowned by a calvary. 
It then turns back to the gorge of 
the Saltine, skirting a precipice, 
at the bottom of which the torrent 
is seen at a vast depth, forcing its 
way among black and bristling 
slate rocks. At the upper end of 
the ravine, high above his head, 



271 



Rte. 59.— PASSAGE of the SIMPLON. 



272 



the traveller may discern the gla- 
ciers under which the road is 
carried, but which it requires 3 
hrs. to reach on account of the zig- 
zag. Looking' bad-:, the valley of 
the Ehone, as far as Turtman, is 
spread out as a map ; Brieg and 
Waters remain long in sight. 

Second Refuge (4422 ft.). Thus 
far it has been a constant pull 
against the collar ; now the road 
is more level and winds round the 
valley to the Ganther torrent to 
cross it by the 

Pont de Ganther, a lofty bridge. 
The upper end of the wild ravine 
above it is subject to avalanches, 
which choke it sometimes to the 
crown of the arch. This bridge 
is left uncovered. The terrific 
wind which accompanies an ava- 
lanche might blow the arch away 
if much bulk were presented 
to its action. 

9m. Beresal, or Persal (5082 ft/, 
an Inn ; 2 buildings, connected 
by a roof across the road, where 
1 6 post-horses are kept ; tolerable 
fare and beds. It is 2 J hrs. from 
Brieg. 

Gallery, the first which the 
road traverses is 95 ft. long — 3900 
ft. above Brieg. View of the 
Bernese Alps near this, and hence 
to the summit They foim. the 
northern wall of the valley of the 
Ehone. The glittering peaks of 
the Brei thorn, Aletsch-horner, and 
Tiescher-horner, are magnificent 
objects, while below them are two 
strips of the glaciers of Aletsch, 
the most extensive in the Alps. 

Fifth Refuge (called Sclialbet) 
is at the upper limit of vegetation. 

The head of the gorge of Sclial- 
bet r on the Monte Leone) is filled 
with glaciers. These give rise in 
siunmer to 5 or 6 torrents, the 



j sources of the Saltine, and in 
: spring to frequent avalanches. 
Three galleries protect the road. 
I They are partly excavated, partly 
: built of arched masonry, and 
serve in places as bridges and 
i aqueducts at the same time ; the 
I torrents being conducted over and 
j beneath them. The traveller is 
surprised to find his carriage 
driven in perfect safety under- 
i neath a considerable waterfall. In 
, the spring the avalanches slide 
I over the roofs. 

The portion of the road hence 
to the summit is dangerous at 
the season when avalanches fall 
and tourmentes arise, on which 
I account it is provided with 3 
1 galleries, 2 refuges, and a hospice, 
, within a distance of not more 
: than If mile. 

i Summit (65 94 ft.) is marked by 5 J m. 
a simple cross of wood, a few yards 
above the Sixth Befuge. 

Hospice. About J m. beyond 
the summit stands the New Hos- 
pice, founded by Xapoleon, but 
left unfinished, for want of funds, 
until 1 840. Externally it is plain 
and solid, containing neat bed- 
rooms for masters, a ch-a wing- room 
provided with a piano, a refectory, 
a chapel, and about 30 beds for 
travellers of the common sort. 
X.B. There is neither com, nor 
hay, nor stabling for horses. The 
establishment is similar to that on 
the Great St. Bernard [Rte. 135), 
except that it is more limited in 
extent and funds, and is occupied 
by 3 or 4 brothers of the same 
Augustine order. The prior is 
the amiable Father Barras, whose 
politeness and attention must 
be remembered by all who have 
visited the Great St. Bernard 
within the 25 years during which 
he resided there. Several of the 



273 Bte. 59.— PASSAGE of the SIMPLON. 274 



dogs of St. Bernard are kept, but 
are rarely employed in active ser- 
vice. The monks are happy to 
show the hospice to travellers, 
and to lodge and entertain them. 
Those who can afford it will 
always leave behind them re- 
muneration at least equivalent to 
that which is paid at an inn. It 
is much more comfortable than the 
hospice of the St. Bernard, and is 
warmed with a heating apparatus. 
[Glacier pass, rt. } to Saas (Kte. 

12 2).] 

A wide, open, barren valley is 
now traversed, bounded by snow- 
clad heights, and having the 
appearance of a drained lake. 
Below the road, on the rt., stands 
a small Tower, the original Hos- 
pice before the new one was 
built. 

Descent, gradual but continued, 
past the Seventh Befuge (ruined y \ 
in 3 in. to the village of 

6 m. Simplon (Ital. Sempione). 
(4626 ft.) Inn: Poste ; Fletsch- 
horn best. Beware of attempts at 
detention on pretence that horses 
are wanting. There is a fair 
Inn at Isella, if it be too late to 
go on to Domo d'Ossola, a chive of 
hrs. at the least. Wooden sabots 
are supplied here for the wheels, 
to save the iron of the carriage- 
drag during the continual descent 
of 3 or 4 hrs. 

2 J m. Gallerie d'Algaby, reached by 
a well-constructed bend. It is 
the first excavation on the southern 
side. The road dives into this 
gallery; and then by a more gra- 
dual slope enters the 

Gorge of Gondo, one of the 

grandest and most savage in the 
Alps, which narrows and deepens 
until its precipices overhang the 
road, which is squeezed in be- j 



tween them on one side and the 
fretting torrent on the other. It 
is bounded by slate rocks, whose 
smooth sides deny support to any 
vegetation. The base of these 
cliffs and the bed of the stream 
are, in places, heaped up with 
ruins of the mtns. above ; while 
loosened masses on the slope seem 
to threaten the passer-by. 

Ponte Alto, a bridge across the 1 J m. 
Doveria. The approach has been 
formed by scarping the rock with 
gunpowder. 

Gallery of Gondo. A buttress 1 m. 
of rock juts out from the 1., and 
seems to block the passage. The 
gallery (596 ft.) has been bored 
through it. It is the longest 
through solid rock in the Simplon 
road, and was the most costly 
to make. It required more than 
roo workmen, in gangs of 8, 
relieving each other day and 
night, to pierce a passage in 18 
months. Miners were hung by 
ropes to the face of the rock until 
the side openings were effected, 
which now serve to light the in- 
terior. Opposite one of them is 
the inscription, "Mre Italo, 1805. 
Nap. Imp." 

Fall of the Frassinone. — Close 
to the mouth of this gallery the 
roaring Frassinone leaps from the 
rocks, close to the road, which is 
carried over it on a beautiful bridge. 
The scenery of the Val Doveria, 
bursting suddenly upon the tra- 
veller soon after he issues from the 
gallery, " offers perhaps the finest 
assemblage of objects to excite an 
emotion of the sublime that is to 
be found in the Alps." — Brocke- 
don. The traveller should look 
bach after about 40 yards. The 
rocks rise like walls on both 
sides. The little strip of sky 
above, the torrent in the dark 



275 



Bte. 59. — PASSAGE of the SIMPLON. 



276 



gulf below, the white foam of the 
waterfall, the graceful arch, and 
the black mouth of the cavern, 
form a picture which has been 
spread over the world by land- 
scape-painters. 

Zigzags now conduct to a bridge 
which was carried away by an 
avalanche during the dreadful 
storm which ruined a great part 
of the Simplon road on the 24th 
of August, 1834. The road is in 
places narrow and in bad order. 

lm. Gondo (Gunz) (2306 ft.), the 
last village in the Valais. A few 
miserable huts, grouped round a 
singular, tall building, 7 stories 
high, erected, like the tower at 
Simplon, by the old Brieg family 
Stockalper, in ancient days, for 
the refuge of travellers. 

[1 hr. walk by the side of the 
torrent, which falls in a cascade 
down the rt.-hand wall of the 
valley, leads to the unproductive 
gold-mine of Ziirichbergen, still 
worked in hope.] 

Gorge below Gondo. — In the 

winter of 1842-3 the snow was 
here drifted to such a depth that 
the sledges on which carriages 
were placed passed 100 ft. above 
the road. 

1 m. Italian frontier is crossed. 

2 m. Isella (Inn good and clean, 
though small). The Custom-house 
and Passport office are here. 

The tempests of 1834 an( i I ^39 
fell with tremendous violence 
upon the road below Isella, which 
they destroyed for 8 m. Every 
bridge of stone was swept away ; 
in some instances the place where 
a bridge had stood was not to be 
recognised. 

Gallery of Isella, a narrow arch 
of rock below the village, was 



flooded by the torrent pouring 
through it, so high were the 
waters swollen. 

Hereabouts a change comes 
over the valley, from nakedness to 
the rich green foliage of the chest- 
nut, which shades the road, and 
to that of the dark fir which 
clothes the summits of the hither- 
to bare mountains above, The 
last gallery is traversed a little 
before reaching 

Crevola, where the Doveria is 8 m. 
crossed for the last time by a 
bridge of 2 arches, 90 ft. high, 
previous to its flowing into the 
river Toccia, or Tosa, which here 
issues out of the Val Formazza, 
and here the Val Vedro termi- 
nates in the Yal d'Ossola. 

[To falls of Tosa 26 hi. ; thence 
over Gries, &c, (Kte. 6 2).] 

Italian climate. — It is now that 
the traveller really finds himself 
in a different region and in an 
altered climate : the softer hues of 
earth and sky, the balmy air, the 
trellised vines, the rich juicy stalks 
of the maize, the almost deafening 
chirp of the grasshoppers or tree- 
crickets, and, at night, the equally 
loud croakings of the frogs— the 
white villages, with their tall, 
square bell-towers, also white, 
not only scattered thickly along 
the valley, but perched on every 
jutting platform on the hill-sides 
— all these proclaim the entrance 
to Italy. 

Domo d'Ossola. 3 m. 

Inns: H. d'Espagne, good and clean, 
fair cuisine; H. de Ville, or Ancienne 
Poste. The Hotel Albasini, highly re- 
commended as a boarding-house, stands 
outside the town, and is approached by 
a narrow carriage-road. It is resorted to 
on account of the baths in summer. 

It is a small town, with few 
points of interest, save that it is 



277 Bte. m.—TTJRTMAN to 



the M G GISCHHORN. 278 



It is advisable to start very early, 
in order to get over the ascent before the 
sun has told upon the snow, as well as 
to secure daylight in case of bad weather 
coming on. 

From Turtman see Ktes. 38 
and 3 5 . 



Italian — in every stone. Houses 
with colonnades, streets with 
awnings, shops teeming with sau- 
sages, macaroni, and garlic, lazy- 
looking, loitering lazzaroni in red 
nightcaps, and bare, mahogany- 
coloured legs, intermixed with 
mules, burly priests, and females 
veiled with the mantilla, fill up 
the picture of an Italian town. 

Calvary, above the town, is 
very well worth a visit by those 
who do not intend to see Varallo 
(Rte. 117). 

Ascent from this to the Hospice of the 
Simplon occupies 7 hrs. : thence to Brieg 
4 hrs. descent. 

Omnibus daily to Pallanza. 

Excursions ;— Up the lovely Tal An- 
zasca (Rte. 121), by Pie di Mulera, to 
Vanzone and Macugnaga. To the Val 
Vigezzo (Rte. 112). To the Falls of the 
Tosa (Rte. 62). To Masera ; the ravines 
near the village very fine. To the Lake 
Mergozo and Pallanza. 

From Domo d'Ossola to Stresa on Lago 
Maggiore 5^ hrs., or to Arona Stat. 7 hrs. 
(Rte. in.) 



Rte. 60.— TURTMAET to the 
JEGGISCKHOKN, by the 
LOTSCHSATTEL. 

KIPPELto Hrs. I Hrs. 
Platten . i£ Marjelen See . 2 
Lotschsattel 5 J JEggisch. Inn . 2 

Few passes lead through 
grander scenery. It is easy for 
a high glacier pass, but none of 
the established precautions for gl. 
travelling should be omitted. 

Kippel to iEggischhorn 10 hrs. ; more 
if the snow be soft and deep. 1 J is saved 
by starting from Platten. 



Kippel. — Good path up the m. 
valley (Rte. 35). 

Flatten. — Bed at cures. 1J hr. 

Lotsch. Glacier. — It is usual J hr. 
to take to the ice on its N. side. 
The lower portion of the glacier 
is iree from difficulty. 

Middle Part is much crevassed, 
but a good guide has no difficulty 
in making out his way. 

Upper Part of the glacier is 
easy. 

Lotschsattel (summit). — The 4 hrs. 
scenery here is extremely grand. 
N. is the range of the Gletscher- 
horn and Mittaghorn, neighbours 
of the Jungfrau ; — S. is the still 
higher group of the Aletschhorn 
and Schienhorn. 



Descent easy, over gently slop- 
ing snow-fields to the main stream 
of the Aletsch Glacier. 

[If not pressed for time, push 
on to a point near the centre of 
the glacier, from whence diverge 
4 glacier highways, each 2 m. in 
width, separating the surrounding 
peaks. 

a 1) a To Mb'nchsattel. 

XJ) To Griinhorn-liicke. 
c To Lotschsattel. 
c d d The Aletsch Glacier. 

These vast Alleges Blanches are 
symmetrically placed, so as to 
form a cross, or, as one traveller 
has called it, " The Place de la 
Concorde of Nature." ] 

Faulberg. — The guides, if they 
know the glacier, will not fail to 
point out a mere speck in the 



Rte. 61.—VIESCH to CRODO. 280 



279 



rocks on the 1. hand in descend- 
ing the main glacier, which marks 
the position of the Faulberg 
Cave, where mountaineers bent 
on ascending the greater peaks 
around usually pass the night. 

2 hrs. Leaving the ice. — On reach- 
ing the' curious Marjelen See, the 
ice is left, and the path on the N. 
bank of the lake is followed. A 
slight ascent is required before 
reaching the 

2 hrs. iEggischhorn Hotel (see Rte. 
28). 



Rte. 61.— VIESCH to CEODO, 
in VAL ANTIGORIO, by the 
BINNENTHAL. 

There is no frequented rte. to 
Italy, between the Simplon (Rte. 
59) and the Gries Pass (Rte. 62), 
a distance of 30 m. The mtns. 
are, however, to be crossed in 
many places, though the passes 
(excepting the Albrun) are 
known only to few. The short 
valleys of Binnen and Rappen, 
which fall into the upper valley 
of the Rhone near to Rekingen 
and Aernen, are uninhabited and 
uninteresting. The only con- 
siderable valley on the S.E. side 
is a little below 

Laax, and is called Binnen- 
tlial. Bridle-path up the valley, 
to 

3 hrs. Binnen. Vill. (Rough sleeping 
quarters.) Here the valley di- 
vides : the main brancli preserves 



the name of Binnenthal ; the S. 
branch is called Heiligenhreutz 
Thai, from the hamlet and pil- 
grim ch. of Heiligenkreutz. Both 
branches subdivide and lead to 2 
or more passes. 4 of these deserve 
mention. 

a. Albrun Pass, ij hrs.. 
6. Col della Rosa. 

c. Krieg Alp. 

d. Hitter or Boccareccio. 

a. Albrun bridle-pass is the 
easiest and most circuitous to 
Crodo, though the most direct 
to Formazza and Falls of the 
Tosa. It is a paved track that 
follows the Binnen Thai. 

Summit (7907 ft.) is a dreary 
plateau. [Direct but steep de- 
scent to Formazza (Rte. 62), pass- 
ing Lake and Valley of Leben- 
due.] 

Descent changes its direction 
from E. to the W. of S. 

Ponte Chalets (see below). 6 hrs. 

h. Col della Rcssa footpath is 
the most direct rte. to Crodo. It 
leads up the Binnen Thai, and 
takes the southern subdivision of 
it. It presents no difficulties. 

Ponte Chalets (see below). 4| hrs 

c. Krieg Alp is more interest- 
ing, but more fatiguing. Guide 
essential . It follows the Heiligen- 
kreutz Thai to the village of that 
name, and thence up the N. sub- 
division of the valley to the base of 
the Krieg Alp stock. The path is 
ill-marked, and might easily be 
missed. 

Summit, there is a steep de- 
scent, with rocks on either side, 
until the head of a gully or ravine 
is reached, on the rt. side of which 
the descent is not difficult. There 
is no passage to the 1. 



281 



Pie. 62.— PASS of the GBlES. 



282 



7i hrs. Ponte Chalets (6273 ft.). The 
above rtes. all meet here. There 
is now a paved mule-track. 
Scenery beautiful. 

hr. Val Agaro (or Ager) : its 
stream is passed on 1. It is an 
upland glen inhabited by a Ger- 
man-speaking community. 

|hr. Croveo. Vill. The first on the 
rte. Passing through woods of 
chestnut and walnut, the path 
falls into the road of the Yal 
Antigorio, a little above 

1 hr. Craveggia (poor quarters and 
civil treatment). 

Jhr. Baths of Crodo (see Kte. 62). 

cl. Bitter or Boccareccio pass 
is reached from Heiligenkreutz 
Thai (12 or 13 hrs. to Isella) 
by the subdvision of that val- 
ley which leads due S. The 
head of it is the lower extremity 
of an immense cirque, § m. across, 
and surrounded by walls 1000 or 
1200 ft. of rock, whose strata lie 
in horizontal lines, like courses of 
masonry. These are scaled about 
the centre of the amphitheatre, by 
a stiff scramble, to the Passo 
del Boccareccio (885 8 ft.). A short 
distance on the S. side, the tra- 
veller is astonished to find him- 
self at the summit of another 
amphitheatre, still more colossal 
in its proportions. A nearly cir- 
cular space, 3 m. across, is sur- 
rounded by the highest peaks of 
this portion of the chain — the 
Hillhorn, Bortelhorn, Furke- 
baum ; and, chief of them all, the 
Monte Leone. From the gaps 
between these peaks 5 glaciers 
descend, and here and there steep 
slopes of snow rest against the 
walls of the amphitheatre. De- 
scent is accomplished by one of 
these snow-slopes, for the rocks 



are too steep to be anywhere 
practicable. Chalets in several 
groups lie at the bottom of the 
amphitheatre. San Giacomo, with 
a small ch., is the chief of these. 
Alpe Veglia is another group 
higher up. There is also a Ponte 
near here, not the Ponte of the 
other rtes. Val Bondoler lies due 
E., and may be followed. It is a 
wild, uninhabited glen, leading 
into the Val Devera, 2 m. above 
Crodo. The easiest course, how- 
ever, is to descend the valley of 
the Cherasca torrent, in 9 m. to 
Isella (Rte. 59). 



Rte. 62.— PASS of the GRIES, 
OBERGESTELN to BOMO 
D'OSSOLA, by the VAL EOR- 
MAZZA (POMMAT), and the 
FALLS of the TOSA. 

OBERGESTELEN to 
Falls of Tosa bridle 7i hrs. 
Andermatten „ . ii „ 

Premia char . 11 miles. 

Domo carriage 15 „ 

A guide is necessary over the Col ; he 
may be dismissed f hr. beyond the top ; 
thus back-hire is saved. The pass is quite 
practicable for ladies, though they have 
to ride across a glacier, for it is unusually 
free from crevasses. 

16 hrs. walk or ride. Anderaiatten, on 
the Italian side, is the best halting-place. 
Baths of Crodo are tolerable quarters. 

Obergesteln (Ete. 28). Below 
this, a bridge leads across the 
Khone, and follows its left bank to 
Im Loch (vill.) ; there it turns 1. 
and ascends the Eginenthal. 

[From Brieg, in crossing the 
Niifenen or Gries, pass the Khone 



283 Bte. 62.— PASS of the GRIES-TOSA FALLS. 284 



by a bridge a little above Munster 
{Inn good), and reach the Eginen- 
thal in an hour. The distance to 
the pass is 3 or 4 m. more than 
from Obergesteln.j 

Eginenthal, a ban-en valley. 
The ronte crosses the stream of 
the Eginen above a pretty cascade, 
80 ft. high. Steep ascent, first 
through larch-wood, then across a 
stony tract, and finally over a little 
green meadow, dotted with the 

2 hrs. Chalets of Egina, brings the 
traveller to the foot of the final 
and most difficult ascent. [A path 
1. leads over the Nufenen pass 
(Kte. 63) to Airolo.l Here vege- 
tation ceases, snow appears in 
patches, and at last the glacier 
blocks up the valley. 

Across glacier. The path makes 
a short cut over its elbow. It 
takes 20 min. to cross. The direc- 
tion of the path is marked by poles 
stuck in the ice. 

Crest (8340 ft.) of the mtn. Here 
runs the frontier hue separating 
Switzerland from Sardinia. * View 
of the chain of Bernese Alps. 

Descent is steep and difficult for 
horses. 

Valley of Formazza, Pommat, 
or Fruthwald. Its upper part 
presents 4 distinct stages, sepa- 
rated by steep steps. 

1. Bettelmatt (dirty hovels) 
2. Morast (morass) 
3. Auf der Fruth. 
Falls of Tosa ^-4. U nter Fruth. 

On 2 are the miserable Kehr- 
b'achi Chalets, the highest winter 
habitations. 

3 contains chalets, a hamlet, and 
a chapel. Hereabouts the path 



falls in with the river Toccio, or 
Tosa. 

[Mule-track in 4 hrs. to the poor inn at 
Hospice all' Acqita (Rte. 63) for Airolo 
on the St. Gothard.] 

Beyond the hamlet of Auf der 
Fruth, path crosses to the 1. bank, 
and, descending the 4th step to 
Unter Fruth, arrives at the 

Falls of the Tosa {Inn, new, 5i hrs 
1864). The sound of the Falls 
is heardr at a long distance off. 
The Fall is surpassed in vo- 
lume of water only by Schaff- 
hausen. It descends in steps 
forming a mass of white foam, for 
a length of perhaps 1000 ft., while 
the descent is 500. Seen from 
below, it has a triangular appear- 
ance, above 80 feet wide at top, 
and expanding gradually towards 
the bottom. It is the only Swiss 
fall combining great height with 
a large body of water. 

Frutkwald. Peter Sillig is said 2 m. 1 
to be a good guide. Farther are 
the vills. of Gurf (Grovello) and 
Zumsteg (Al Ponte). The in- 
habitants, as far as Fojjpiano, are 
German, and, by tradition, de- 
scendants of a colony from the 
Entlebuch. The villages have 
German as well as Italian names. 

An - der - Matten (Ital. AHa 2 m. 

Chiesa) {*Inn : Eossel, kept by 
German-Swiss, a good guide, 
rough but tolerable). 

[To Locarno on the Lago Maggiore, 
by the Val Maggia. 8 hrs. walk by a 
fatiguing path over the Criner Furca 
(7837 ft.) to Cevio in Val Maggia. 1 hi*, 
farther amidst fine scenery is Bignasco 
{Inn, Post), from whence a country dili- 
gence daily starts for Locarno hrs.).] 

Albrun Pass to Viesch (Ete. 

61). 

Char-road begins. 
The lower part of the vale of the 
Tosa abounds in exquisite scenery. 



285 



Bte. 63.— PASS of the NUFENEN. 



286 



4 in. Gorge of Foppiano (Germ. TJn- 
terstalden), 5 m. below Formazza, 
is particularly grand. Lower 

. down it expands, and has all the 
soft beauties of high cultivation, 
luxuriant vegetation, and thick 
population. 

7m. Premia (Inn: Air Agnello, 
small, rather better than that at 
Formazza). Char, to Domo d'O. 
10 fir. *View of valley mag- 
nificent. 

Below this, the valley changes 
its name into 

Val Antigorio. Excellent carr.- 
rd. for the rest of the way. This 
charming valley is the retreat of 
retired bankers, jewellers, &c, who 
have built villas in it. The 
mica-slate rocks near Premia and 
San Michele are stuck as full of 
red garnets as a pudding is with 
plums. There are several timber- 
slides for bringing down trees from 
the high forests to the Tosa, and 
thus to Milan. 

[For passes between the Val Antigorio 
and Yiesch in the Yalais, see Rte. 61.] 

5 m. Crodo (Germ. Crot). Its Baths 
are chalybeate. (Large house* not 
well managed ; passing travellers 
are charged unreasonably.) Hear 
this are gold-mines. Carriages and 
horses may be lured here. 

2 m. Ponte Maglio is the Italian 
Custom-house. 

5 m. Crevola. Here the Simplon 
road is reached. 

3 m. Domo d'Ossola (Ete. 59). 



Rte. 63.-PASS of the NtJFE- 
NEN (NO VENA), from OBER- 
GESTELEN to AIEOLO. 

OBERGE3TELEN to Hrs. 

Hospice 6 

Airolo 3 

Horse-path neither fine nor diffi- 
cult. 

Obergesteln, Thence up the 
Eginenthal, as in Ete. 62. 

Egina Chalets. Here it turns 2 hrs. 
1., ascends, and crosses the 



Hospice all' Acqua (5000 ft., 4 hrs. 
dirty and full of fleas). The 
Hospitalier is a good guide. [To 
Falls of the Tosa, 3 j hrs. walk 
(Ete. 62).] 

Val Bedretto, from its elevation, 
has frosts often in the height of 
summer, morning and evening. 
In winter the males migrate to 
Italy, to seek employment as ser- 
vants. It is flanked on either side 
with glaciers, and is dreadfully 
exposed to avalanches. The masses 
of fallen snow often remain un- 
melted on the margin of the Ticino 
till the end of September. 

Bedretto (small Inn). The 1 hr. 
valley leading to Airolo is pleasing. 
In the lower part a scanty crop of 
rye is grown. 

Airolo, in Ete. 34* 2 hrs. 



Niifenen Pass (8022 ft.). Grassy 
on its very top. View of the 
Bernese Oberland. The summit 
is broad; the path is marked 
by poles. The track down into 
the Val Bedretto is scarcely dis- 
tinguishable from tracks of cattle. 
It descends along the 1. bank of a 
stream to the 



287 



Bte. 65.-ZUBICH to UOBSCHACE. 



288 



Rte. 65.— ZURICH to RORS- 
CHACH, by ST. GALL. — 
Railway. 4 J hrs. 

ZURICH to Eng. m. 

Winterthur (Rte. 9) . . . .16 

St. Gall 33 

Rorschach 28 

Coire (see Rte. 66) . . . .62 

Zurich in 1 hr. to 

16 m. Winterthur Stat, in Ete. 9. 
The rly. leaves the valley of the 
Toss. Rt. Castle of Kyburg. 

7 m. Elgg. It crosses 2 branches 
of the Murg and reaches 

10 m.Wyl Stat. ( 2000 Inhab.) ; cotton- 
sphming {Inns: Post; Lowe); view 
of Sentis ; several convents. The 
Tlmr is crossed by a lattice bridge. 

Flawyl Stat., a manufacturing 
vill. - 

Rly. crosses the Glatt by a lattice 
bridge of 3 arches, 380 ft. long and 
120 ft. high. 

WinkelnStat. Omnibus toHeri- 
sau, 20 m. 

16 m.Bruggen Stat.; descend through 
the village to the stone Kriitzern 
Briicke, 85 ft. high, whence good 
view of the Iron lattice bridge 
across the valley of the Sitter, 560 
ft. long, in 4 spans. It is raised on 
iron piers, 200 ft. above the river. 
Tunnel, a long one close to 

3 m. St. Gall Stat. (St. Gallen\- 
(Inns: *Hecht (Brochet) ; Zehn- 
der's, excellent ; Lion, very good ; 
Hirsch.) St. Gall, capital of the 
canton, is in an elevated valley on 
the Steinach, 2000 ft. above sea. 
Pop. 14,500; 5000 Rom. Caths. 
It is the chief place for the manu- 
facture of Swiss muslins and 
cottons. There are bleacheries, 
and the neighbouring slopes are 
white with webs. The embroi- 



dered curtains and ladies' collars 
are pretty and cheap. 

History. — The antique walls 
recall the ancient history of St. 
Gall. In the early part of the 
7th cent. St. Gallus, an Irish 
monk, left his convent in the 
Scotch island of Iona, and settled 
on the Steinach. He taught the 
wild people agriculture, as well 
as religion. His cell became 
the nucleus of civilization. Fifty 
years after his death, when the 
miracles wrought at his tomb 
drew thousands of pilgrims to 
the spot, it was replaced by a 
more magnificent edifice by Pepin 
l'Heristal. This abbey was one of 
the oldest in Germany. It became 
the asylum of learning during the 
dark ages, and was the most cele- 
brated school in Europe between 
the 8th and 10th cents. Here the 
works of Rome and Greece were 
not only read but copied; and 
we owe to these obscure monks 
many of the classics. The abbots 
soon became the most consider- 
able territorial sovereigns in N. 
Switzerland, and were raised to 
the rank of princes of the empire. 
About 1400 Appenzell threw otl 
the abbot's yoke; at the Refor- 
mation St. Gall became inde- 
pendent; and in 1712 the eccle- 
siastical prince was obliged to 
place the convent under the pro- 
tection of those very citizens whose 
ancestors had been his serfs. The 
French Revolution caused the se- 
cularization of the abbey, and the 
sequestration of its revenues fol- 
lowed in 1805. 

Abbey Ch. (cath. since 1846), of 
Italian architecture, surmounted 
by 2 towers, was rebuilt 1755- 
66. It contains a fine organ, 
relics of St. Gall, and in the Sa- 
cristy his chapel bell, and much 
antique plate. 



289 Bte. 66.— BOBSCHACH to COIBE. 290 



The Benedictine Monastery. — Its 
vast buildings date from the 1 7th 
and 1 8th cents., and the part of 
it which formed the abbot's Pa- 
lace, originally walled and forti- 
fied to resist attacks of the towns- 
folk, is now turned into a school 
for Eoman Cath. teachers. In 
it is the Convent Library (Stifts 
Bibliothek), which still contains 
numerous Latin classics, MSS. of 
the 10th and nth cents., Greek 
New Testament of the 10th cent., 
Psalms of the 9th cent., various 
ancient MSS. either from Ireland 
or transcribed by Irish monks; 
also a MS. of the Niebelungen 
Lied, letters relating to the Re- 
formation, 9 Palimpsests. 

St. Lawrence, rebuilt in Modern 
Gothic style 1852-54, is Pro- 
testant. 

In the Cantons School, a hand- 
some and conspicuous edifice (b. 
1855), * s the Town Library 
(27,000 vols, and MSS.), Museum 
of Natural History, and a few 
paintings. 

Orphan House, a fine edifice, 
outside the town, to the N.W. 

The Club called Literary Mu- 
seum has an excellent heading- 
room, well supplied with papers, 
&c. 

Post-Office near the rly. stat. 
St. Gall stands 2800 ft. above 
the sea-level. 

Excursions. 

a. The Freudenberg Mtn., 2 m. 
S.E. of the town. Panoramic view, 
L. Constance; mtns. of St. Gall 
and Appenzell, with the Sentis. 
Carr.-road to the inn on the top. 

b. To the gorge of the Sittern, 
10 min. by rail to Bruggen Stat. ; 
to see the Kratzern Briicke, and 
Iron Ely. Viaduct. 

From St. Gall to Trogen, Gais, 
Kp. Switz. 



Appenzell, Weissbad, and back to 
St. Gall — a delightful day's drive 
(Rte. 68). Inn: Tivoli, 1 m. 
from St. Gall. 

Rorschach — Inns : Seehof, 9 m. 
Hirsch, good ; Krone. 

Ely. lines to Zurich and Coire. Steamers 
to Friedrichshafen, terminus of the rly. 
from Stuttgart and Ulm, twice a day : — 
to Constance several times ; 5 times a 
day to Lindau, stat. for Augsburg and 
Munich, in about i£ hr.; 3 times a day 
to Bregenz, in the Austrian province of 
the Vorarlberg, by which is the most 
direct way to the Tyrol. 

This little lake-port, 2600 In- 
hab., is the principal corn-market 
in Switzerland, held on Thurs- 
day. The grain comes from Sua- 
bia, in boats, across the lake. 
Much muslin is made here. Baths 
in the Lake. 

Statthaltery, or Marienberg, on 
the slope, a little above the town, 
was a palace once of the proud 
abbots of St. Gall; it is now a 
school. Its Gothic cloister, and 
vaulted refectory with bas-reliefs, 
deserve notice (date 15 13). View 
from its terrace. Castle of St. 
Anne is perched near it, with its 
square keep. From Top of Boss- 
biihel hill, behind Rorschach (ij 
hour's walk), view over the whole 
lake, of the influx of the Rhine, 
and of Bregenz. 

Rly. to Coire (Rte. 66). 



Rte. 66.— RORSCHACH to 
COIRE, by RAGATZ and the 
BATHS of PFEFFERS. —Rail- 
way. 

RORSCHACH to m. 

Ragatz Rly 51 

Coire „ 13 

3J-4J hrs., 4 trains daily. 

L 



291 Bte. 66.-BOBSCKACH to COIBE. 



292 



Rorschach Stat. (Ete. 65). — J 
The riy. soon quits the lake to 
skirt the delta of the Ehine. The 
district is marshy and unhealthy. 

A channel has been cut for 
the river into the lake. Weinburg, 
on the height, is the seat of the 
P. of Hohenzollern Sigmaringen. 
View from his park. 

4 m. Rheineck Stat. (Inns : Brocket ; 
Post ; Krone). Several castles on 
the heights. 

3 m. St. Margarethen Stat, com- 
pletely embowered in walnut and 
fruit trees, near the Austrian ferry, 
over the Bhine [which must be 
crossed in going to Bregenz, or 
Lindau (see Handbook for South 
Germany). It is not passable after 
dark.] Thence S. up the Ehine, 
through a country rich in grain 
and orchards. The Ehine here is 
a wide, shallow, muddy stream, 
constantly changing its channel 
and overflowing its banks : it is 
not navigated except by wood- 
rafts. 

8| m. Altstetten Stat. (Inns : Post ; 
Eabe) 7293 Inhab., in a lovely 
spot. Views of the Alps of Vor- 
arlberg. 

Horses and "carriages may be 
hired. To Trogen and St. Gall 
by the Euppen Pass (Ete. 68) ; to 
Gais and Appenzell by the Stoss ; 
both good roads. 

The females are all occupied in 
tambouring muslin, much of which 
goes to England. 

4m. Oberried Stat (Inn: H. du 
Cheval). 

3 m. Riithi, at the foot of the Ka- 
mor, 5118 ft. [Ascent of 3 hrs. 
walk. View over the Alps of 
Appenzell, Voraiiberg, the Gri- 
sons. An adjoining peak, the 
Hoherikasten, is 5 902 ft.] 



Haag Stat Carriage and post- 12 m. 
road 1., across the Ehine to Feld- 
kirch and Tyrol ; rt. to Wildhaus 
and Toggenburg. Diligence daily 
(Ete. 71). 

Buchs Stat {Inn : Sonne). 3 m. 
Above it Schloss Werdenberg, seat 
of a noble family of that name, 
important in early Swiss history. 
[A cross road hence through the 
Toggenburg to Wyl (Ete. 71).] 

Sevelen (Inn : Traube). Et. 3| m. 
Schloss Wartau castle ; I. beyond 
the Ehine Vaduz, capital of the 
Principality of Lichtenstein (Ete. 
67). In the background Falk- 
niss Mtn. 

Sargans June. Stat. Here the.7 m. 
riy. from Zurich falls in (Ete. 14). 

Ragatz Stat (Inns : Hof Ea- 4 m. 
gatz, originally the summer resi- 
dence of the abbots, often over- 
crowded, not clean; H. de la 
Tamina, family hotel and board- 
ing-house, well spoken of, civil 
people. Baths in both houses 
are supplied with water through 
wooden pipes, 12,500 feet long, 
from the hot springs of Pfeffers. 
Hotel, kept by Anderes, clean and 
quiet.) Eagatz (600 Inhab.) is at 
the mouth of the gorge (tobel) 
through which the Tamina issues 
to join the Ehine. It thrives 
from its central position, and as a 
watering-place. In the Eoman- 
Catholic burial-ground is the 
grave and monument erected by 
the King of Bavaria to Schelling 
the philosopher, who died here 
1 8 54. There is an English chapel 
here. 

The waters, effective in gout 
and other diseases, can be taken 
at either of the hotels, without 
living in the gorge at the Old 
Bath-House. 



293 



Bte. 66. — PFEFFEBS BATHS and GOBGE. 



294 



Small carriages wait at the station to 
take passengers, ii fr, each person ; cab 
with i horse, 6 frs., to 

3 m. Old Baths of Pfeffers (Pfaf- 
fers). one of the most extraor- 
dinary spots in Switzerland. No 
one should fail to visit it. 

J m. or f hr. walk up the Tamina; 
20 minutes to return in a char. 

They are 2 large buildings and 
a chapel at the bottom of a gorge, 
between cliffs or steep hills, which 
shade them from the sun, on a 
ledge of rock just above the roar- 
ing Tamina. The hot springs 
are said to have been discovered 
by a hunter, who remarked their 
vapour. For years no road was 
made ; patients were let down by 
ropes and pulleys from the cliffs 
above, and passed a week in the 
waters, living in them day and 
night. In the same manner the 
necessaries of life were lowered 
down into the roof of the bath- 
house. A pint of the water con- 
tains scarcely 3 grains of saline 
particles; temp. 9 8° Fahr. 

The baths are hemmed in be- 
tween dripping walls of rock, and 
shaded by dank foliage, with only 
a narrow strip of sky overhead, 
and *vith small space for locomo- 
tion. 

Source of the hot spring. — A 
few yards above the old baths the 
ravine of the Tamina contracts 
to a few feet ; a little farther the 
sides close over and cover up the 
river, which issues out of a chasm. 
The springs are reached through 
the bath-house, whence a bridge 
of planks leads to the entrance, 
which is closed by a door. The 
bridge, prolonged into the gorge 
as a shelf, partly resting on iron 
stanchions and partly in a niche, 
extends for a distance of 700 yds., 
in places shut out from the light 



of day by the overhanging cliffs. 
Each person pays 1 fr. 

To return, ascend the valley by 
a track, then keeping to the 1., 
and descending a little, in J m. 
by a natural bridge of rock, be- 
neath which is the Tamina, out 
of sight and hearing. A stair- 
case (Stiege) formed of trunks of 
trees, on the rt. bank, is then 
ascended to an upper stage of the 
valley covered with pasture on 
one side and woods on the other. 
The two sides are separated by 
the gash, along the bottom of 
which the Tamina forces its way. 
This is, perhaps, the best general 
view of the baths. The upper 
valley, also, with its bright green, 
its woods, and the limestone cliffs 
which border it, and, above all, 
the peak of the Falkniss, on the 
opposite side of the Ehine, forms 
a magnificent landscape. 

A char-road runs 1ST. from the 
top of the Stiege for 2 m. along 
the rt. bank of the Tamina, 
through a wood and meadows, to 

Convent of Pfeffers (St. Pirmins- 
berg), in the village of Pfeffers, a 
vast edifice, built 1 6 65 , in place of 
one destroyed by fire. It encloses 
a ch. in the centre, like all Bene- 
dictine convents, and is finely 
placed. This monastery, founded 
713, was suppressed in 1838 by 
the government of St. Gall. It 
is converted into a lunatic asylum. 

A pretty, but bad, char-road 
leads in about 2 J m. down zig- 
zags, through woods, from the 
convent to Eagatz. 

The pedestrian going from the 
Baths to Coire need not return 
to Eagatz, but may pass from 
the convent to the Unterc-Zoll- 
Briicke. 

Excursions from Bagatz nume- 
rous, but saddle-horses deficient. 
a. To Luziensteiff, a fortified 
L 2 



295 Bte. 66. — B OBSCHA CH to COIBE. 296 



1 799' drove out the Austrians, and 
plundered Tamins. 

/. To Vdttis and up the Kal- 
feuser Thai towards the glaciers 
of the Sardona. Seldom visited, 
but grand. There is a pass, said 
to be difficult, over the Sardona 
to Flins (Bte. 79). 

g. Those who do not intend to 
cross into Italy may visit the Via 
Mala and return in a long day. 

The rly. from Kagatz crosses 
the Rhine by a covered wooden 
bridge, just below the influx of 
the Tarnina, leading out of canton 
St. Gall into the Grisons. Grand 
outline of the Falkniss. 



pass, beyond the Ehine, between 
the ETaschberg and the Falkniss, 
2 i m. from Mayenfeld Stat. The 
ascent of the Fldschberg (3622 ft.) 
from Luziensteig (2244 ft.) is by 
a carriage-road reaching in suc- 
cession the various forts. View 
from its top down the precipice 
which scarps one side. 

b. To the Prattigau and Baths 
of Fideris (lite. 98), returning 
over the mtns. and down the 
Schanfik valley. 

c. Ascent of the Graue Homer 
(Piz Sol), 9340 ft., 5 hrs. to the 
S.W. 

d. The Kalanda, or Galanda- 
berg Mtn., S. (9213 ft.), 5-hrs. 
climb. Rough quarters at the 
chalets of Obern Maiensass, 2 hrs. 
below the top. 

e. By the Kunkelspass, 6Jhrs.,to 
Reichenau on the road to Spliigen. 
This pass is not striking, but is a 
change from the high road. There 
is a tolerable char-road to Yattis, 
and even to the foot of the col. 
Walk 1 hr. to the top of the Stiege ; 
thence in i£ hr. the valley turns 
rt. and opens out; then § hr. 
Vdttis is reached, at the entrance 
of the Kalfeuser Thai, where bread 
and wine, and perhaps a bed, 
might be procured. The path 
now keeps to the 1. over meadows, 
the precipices of the Calanda on 
the 1. 1 J hr. the chalets of Kun- 
hels ; then J hr. the foot of the 
col, where the 1. path must be 
taken : and a steep ascent of 20 
min. to the head of the pass. 
There is not much view from the 
col itself. Keeping again 1., the 
path plunges into the ravine of 
Foppa, and by a steep descent, 
affording some views of the valley 
of the Rhine, Tamins is reached, 
and then Reichenau (Rte. 87), 
i£ hr. from the col. A French 
detachment crossed this pass in 



Mayenfeld Stat. (Inn ; Alte 1 J m. 
Post), immediately opposite to 
Ragatz. Ancient tower, erected 
in the 4th cent., by the Emperor 
Constantius. The valley of the 
Rhine is grand from this point. 
The river alone is unpicturesque, 
from the large space of gravel left 
bare in summer. Its bed is con- 
stantly rising. A plan has been 
proposed, by M. la Nicca, of 
cutting a new channel for its un- 
ruly stream to the Lake of Con- 
stance. Lattice bridge over the 
Landquart. 

Landquart Stat., at the mouth 
of the valley of Prattigau (Rte. 
98). Diligence daily to Davos. 

Beyond this, rt., the Convent of 
Pfeffers is visible ; the snowy Ca- 
landa rises into sight, and feudal 
castles overlook the valley. One 
of the most conspicuous is Halden- 
stein, opposite Coire. The last 
station is 

Zizers {Inn: Krone), near which 
is Molin'ara, the country-seat of 
the Bishops of Coire. 

Coire Terminus (Germ. Chur ; 6 m. 
Romansch, Cuera ). — Inns : H. 
Lukmanier, near the rly. stat., 
good and moderate; Capricorne, 



297 



Rte. GQ.—COlRE. 



298 



or Steinbock, outside the town, 
civil people; Weisses Kreutz 
(White Cross) and Freyeck 
united, also good. The wine of 
the Valteline is generally con- 
sumed in the Grisons ; but Com- 
pleter, which grows on the Rhine, 
near Malms, is good. 

Coire, capital of the Grisons, 
the Curia Rhsetorum of the Ro- 
mans, is an ancient town of 
7540 Inhab. (1600 Rom. Catho- 
lics), 1 m. from the Rhine, at the 
mouth of the defile of the Plessur, 
at the foot of the Calanda, the 
rocky Hochwang and the wooded 
Piz Okel. On the site of 2 of the 
old gates rise the Post-office and 
Arsenal. Cone is the staple place 
of the goods transported over the 
Spliigen and Bernardin, Julier 
and Albula Passes. It is the 
place of meeting of the Council 
of the Grisons. Some curious 
domestic architecture will be found 
in it. 

Bishop s Palace and the quarter 
around it, inhabited by the Ro- 
man Catholics, occupy the sum- 
mit of an eminence. Here is the 

Ch. of St. Lucius, or Dom, very 
early pointed Gothic, with frag- 
ments of 12th cent, buildings. It 
is entered from the W. by a round- 
arched portal supported on mon- 
sters. The statues of the Four 
Evangelists, Janus-like, in pairs, 
standing upon lions, are very an- 
cient. The choir is reached by 
steps, leaving open to the nave the 
crypt beneath, which rests on a 
single pier, whose base is a mon- 
ster. There are fine old wood- 
carvings (altar), and paintings, and 
monuments of the noble Grison 
families. There is a sacramental 
house with metal door (1484). See 
a carved and gilt altarpiece, the 
Adoration of the Virgin; several 
remarkable shrines of early Gothic 



metal-work, especially that con- 
taining the bones of St. Lucius, a 
British kin^, and the founder of 
St. Peters Ch., Cornhill. In the 
sacristy old ch. plate. 

The Bishop s Palace has been 
modernised, but includes in it a 
Roman watch-tower, called Mars- 
61, within which is a very an- 
cient chapel. Incorporated with 
it on the N.E. side is a square 
second Roman tower. Spindl is 
nearly levelled. 

Behind the Palace is a kind 
of ravine, lined with vineyards, 
across which a path leads to the 
Roman Catholic Seminary, from 
which is a picturesque view of 
the town. 

Library of the Cantonal Schools 
contains a considerable collection 
of Romansch literature and Nat. 
History. 

10 min. walk outside the town, 
S.E., is the Bosenhiigel, the best 
point of view of Coire and the 
Rhine valley. 

Diligences every day to Milan, by the 
Spltigen (Rte. 87), in 29 hrs. ; to Bellin- 
zona, by the Bernardin (Rte. 91), in 17 
hrs.; to Samaden (daily) (Rte. 93), in 12 
hrs., over the Julier; to the Engadine, 
by Tiefenkasten (Rte. 92); over the 
Albula. 

Excursions — To the Viamala (Rte. 87) 
to Pfaffers Baths (Rte. 66). 

The Romansch Language. 

The Romansch (properly the 
Rceto-Romansch) language is one 
of those which, in the middle 
ages, took their rise from the 
common or Rustic Latin (Lingua 
Romana rustica) spoken in dif- 
ferent parts of the Roman empire 
in Europe. The Provencal of the 
S. of France is another, and the 
Wallachian (Romouni) is a third. 
The Ra3to Romansch was at one 
time spoken all through Rxtia, 
which included the Grisons, the 



299 



Bte. 67. — BBEGENZ to COlBft 



300 



Tyrol, and the adjacent districts 
of Switzerland and S. Germany, 
where many Eomansch proper 
names of places still remain. Be- 
sides a considerable mixture of 
pme German, the Ea3to-Komansch 
contains several hundred words, 
relating to Alpine life and occu- 
pations, derived from the aborigi- 
nal Alpine tribes whom Livy 
asserts to have been related to the 
Etruscans. 

The Pop. of the Grisons is 
only 91,000, of whom three-fifths 
are Protestant; ^o.ooo speak Eo- 
mansch, one-third speak German, 
and 12,000 Italian (in the S. dis- 
tricts of Misocco, Bregaglia, and 
Puschiavo). 

The literature of the Eaeto- 
Eomansch language dates back to 
the latter half of the 15 th cent. 
Popular songs on warlike exploits 
are succeeded in 1 5 2 5 by an epic 
poem by Johannes Travers, a 
chief actor in his story. The first 
'(1560 a.d.) printed book was the 
New Testament, in the dialect of 
the Upper Engadine, by Tachem 
Bifrun, a lawyer of Samaden. It 
had great influence in the spread 
of the Eeformation through the 
Baetian Valley of the Inn. 

Most of the inhabitants of the 
Grisons speak Italian or German. 
The laws and the edicts of Go- 
vernment are written in Eo- 
mansch, and there are two Eo- 
mansch newspapers — 'Amity del 
Pievel ' (the Friend of the People), 
ultramontane, published at Coire, 
in the dialect of the Oberland, 
and the liberal 'Gazetta d'lnn- 
giaclina,' in that of the Lower 
Engadine. 

Eomansch names of places, of 
two syllables, generally have the 
accent on the last syllable, as 
Ardez, Cernez, Lavm, Mascin, 
Eagatz, Sargans, and the Eo- 



mansch names of many places 
differ totally from the German : 
e.g., Disentis, Bom. Muster ; Bri- 
gels, Bom. Breil; "VValtersburg, 
Bom. Uors ; Ems, Bom. Dommat. 

Towards the end of the 15 th 
cent, the Grisons were perma- 
nently allied with the Swiss, and 
in 1525 conquered Chiavenna and 
the Valteline, the inhabitants of 
which they treated in the most 
tyrannical manner until they were 
separated in 1798. In 1814 the 
Grisons became a Swiss canton. 

A new organization of the 
Grisons was introduced in 185 1. 
The old historic divisions are 
abolished, and the canton is por- 
tioned into 14 districts, 39 circles, 
and 205 communes or parishes. 



Rte. 67.-BREGENZ to COIBE, 
by FELDKIRCH. 

BREGENZ to M. by rd 

Feldkirch 21 

Coire ....... 18 

The direct way between Switz. and the 
Tyrol lies through Feldkirch, which is 
itself reached either from Bregenz or 
Coire. (The quickest route from Bregenz 
is steamer to Rorschach, and rly. thence 
to Coire (Rte. 66).)- The Tyrol may also 
be reached from Bregenz by dil. to Lan- 
deck daily, 18 hrs. Lastly, bridle-path 
from Bregenz to the Tyrol up the valley 
of the Bregenzer Ach. 

Bregenz. Inns: Oesterreichis- 
cher Hof; Post, or Goldener 
Adler ; Schwarzer Adler ; . Krone. 
(See Handbook for Southern Ger- 
many.) 

Dil. daily to Mayenfeld in 8f hrs., where 
the rly. to Coire crosses to the rt. bank of 
the Rhine. 40 to 50 fr. for a carriage. 

Feldkirch. (Inns: Post; Engel,21 m. 
good), the frontier town of Aus- 
tria, finely sit. at the opening 



301 Rte. 68.— RORSCHACH to 



GAIS and APPENZELL. 302 



of the valley of the 111, through 
which lies the high-road to the 
Tyrol. 

m. Liehtenstein Principality is 

entered, one of the smallest sove- 
reign States in Europe, 12 m. in 
length by 3 or 4 in breadth. The 
Prince has very large possessions 
in Austria, and usually holds a 
high position at the Court of 
Vienna, not caring to exercise in 
person his rights of miniature 
royalty. He is, however, a mem- 
ber of the Germanic Confedera- 
tion, and contributes 55 men to 
the Federal army ! 

6 m. Vaduz, the capital of this mi- 
nute State. 

5m. Balzers (Inn: Post), at the 
foot of heights crowned by the 
fortress of Luziensteig (see Kte. 
66). 

{Ferry across the Ehine, by 
which Eagatz is reached sooner 
than by Mayenfeld.] 

H m. Mayenfeld Stat. Thence to 

Coire Stat, by rly. or road (Ete. 
66). - 



Rte. 68. -ST. GALL, or RORS- 
CHACH, to GAIS and APPEN- 
ZELL, and WEISSBAD. Car- 
riage-road. 

RORSCHACH to Eng. m. 

Eng. m. Appenzell . 3% 
Gais . . i8£ Weissbad . 2£ 

The canton Appenzell lies in a 
cul-de-sac of mtns., somewhat out 
of the beat of travellers. It is 
completely surrounded by the can- 
ton of St. Gall. It joined the 
Swiss cantons in 15 13 as the 13 th 
and last before 1798. It is di- 



vided into 2 distinct districts, 
called Rlwden. Outer Khoden is 
thickly peopled ; 390 inhab. to the 
Eng. sq. mile. They are Pro- 
testants, who manufacture cotton, 
muslin, tambouring, &c. Inner 
Ehoden, on the contrary, is Eoman 
Catholic, and a land of herdsmen, 
of pastures where the music of 
the cow's bells is heard without 
ceasing. The government, in 
both states, is a pure democracy. 
In this primitive district two 
unusual objects may attract 
the traveller's attention — the 
pillory, by the road-side, with 
a collar (carcan), a hole for the 
neck, a padlock, and a chain ; and 
the bone-house, or ossuaire, in the 
churchyards, destined to receive 
the skulls and bones, which, after 
a certain number of years, are dug 
up, ticketed, and labelled. 

The cleanliness of Ausser Eho- 
den is pleasing. The green hill- 
sides to their very top are studded 
with cheerful-looking houses. The 
villages of Trogen, Teuffen, and 
Speicher are tastefully built, and 
most houses, have a well-tended 
garden. The females in every 
cottage are busied in embroidery. 
But the change is remarkable on 
entering Inner Ehoden, where 
cleanliness and industry are ex- 
changed for filth and beggary. 
The Appenzellers are passion- 
ately fond of gymnastic exercises. 
Wrestling and boxing matches, 
hulling the stone, and rifle-shoot- 
ing, occur on every holiday. The 
laws of Protestant Outer Ehoden 
restrict dancing to 3 or 4 days of 
the year ; but they are infringed, 
and the peasants will often cross 
the frontier to their dances. 

For pedestrians arriving by the 
Lake of Constance, Appenzell 
offers the most agreeable route 
for commencing a walking tour. 



303 Rte. 68.— RORSCHACH to 



GAIS and APPEXZELL. 304 



There are good carriage-roads 
from the E. and W. ; and the 
canton, though little frequented 
by the English, is annually vi- 
sited by numbers of Germans and 
Swiss, chiefly for the sake of the 
cure de petit lait, or modcen cur. 
This " cure " consists in drinking 
goats'-whey, here called schotten, 
"which is brought in large quanti- 
ties every morning, still warm, to 
the establishments frequented by 
the seekers for health. The prin- 
cipal of these are at Gais, Weiss- 
bad, Heiden, Gonten, and Ur- 
nasch. 

The prices at inns, charges for 
guides, horses, &c, are low. 

From St. Gall daily diligences 
by Teufen (6 m.) (Inns: Hecht; 
Linde) and Buhler (2 J m.), 2 
large manufacturing villages, to 
Gais (4 J m.) and Appenzell 
(3 m.) — see below — a journey of 
2 J hrs. 

Rorschach. (Ete. 65/) Hence 
a carriage - road, chiefly uphill 
(omnibus takes nearly 2 hrs.), to 

5 m. Wienachter Eck. Here flags 
are quarried and sent to Germany 
and Holland. 

ljm. Grub Katholisch and Grub 
" Eeformirt. 

[Footpath direct to Trogen 
2 J hrs. Turns rt, (or somewhat 
W. of S.) below ch. at the Ee- 
formirt Grub. Thence in 1 hr. 
to summit of the Kaien (3668 ft.). 
Descent i| hr. to Trogen.] 

ljm. Heiden {Inns: Freyhof, good, 
rooms 7 fr. to 1 2 fr. a-week ; Lion 
(Lowe , clean and cheap ; Krone ; 
Linde). Whey- cure and mineral 
waters ; much frequented during 
summer. A pretty village in the 
midst of pleasing pastoral scenery. 
2844 Inhab. Many excursions. 
a. St. Antoni CapeUe. 4 m. S. 



View Yorarlberg and Lichtenstein 
mtns., over valley of the Ehine, 
and part of L. Constance. 

b. Ascent of Kaien (3668 ft.) 
ij hi-. S.W. 

Trogen [Inn : SchahV , the seat 5 m. 
of gov. of Appenzell (Ausser- 
Ehoden), 2942 Inhab. Hence the 
carriage-road makes a circuit by 
Biihler. [Direct footpath to Gais, 
2 hrs. S., over the shoulder of the 
Gabris mtn. View from top of 
Gabris. Finger-posts everywhere.] 

[Good carriage-road from Tro- 
gen to Altstatten Stat, by the 
Euppen Pass.] 

Gais (Inns: Ochs, largest ; 5 J m. 
Lamm, clean and cheap ; Krone). 
(3064 ft.). The most central place 
in Appenzell. It is a village of 
huge but neat cottages, mostly 
used as lodging-houses, ranged 
round a square, or scattered over 
meadows in a high, open country. 
The houses are particularly clean, 
trimly painted outside. Its pure 
and bracing air, and its cure of 
goats'-whey, are of repute. The 
principal inns are full in July and 
August. Good bread. The native 
songs of Appenzell are famous. 

View of the Sentis and its 
chain. 

[Footpath direct to Appenzell.] 

Appenzell {Inns: Hecht, the 3 J m. 
best; homely society, attentive 
people'. Chief place of Inner 
Ehoden, on the Sitter. A village 
of 3 3 co Inhab. Its name comes 
from Abten-zelle, or Abbatis Cella 
—the Eetreat of the Abbot (of 
St. Gall). 

Appenzell is reached in 3 hrs. by dil. or 
carr. from St. Gall Ely. Stat. 

Record Office (Archiv). Here 
are a number of banners, con- 
quered by the Appenzellers of 
old. Here are the flags of Con- 



805 Ete. 6$.— SENTIS. 69.— > 



■ST. GALL to UZNACH. 306 



stance, Winterthur,Feldkirch; the I 
Tyrolese banner, taken at Landek, ' 
1407 ; the Genoese banner of St. 
George, and 2 captured from the 
Venetians, 15 16, in the battle of 
Agnadel. Here is a Capuchin con- 
vent and a Franciscan nunnery. 

Travellers seldom stay at Ap- 
penzell, but go on to 

Jm. Weissbad (2515 ft.), a large 
homely establishment — 120 beds, 
80 baths, goats' whey. It is sur- 
rounded by grounds ; walks lead 
from them to the mtns. Here 3 
torrents converge ; they all rise in 
the glaciers of the Sentis Mi, and 
run through deep valleys. Guides 
and a few horses. Inns outside 
the village, Alpstein and Kossli. 

Excursions. 

a. 1 J hr. Wildkirchlein ch. and 
hermitage (2 little Inns), up the 
northernmost of the 3 valleys, 
then crossing 1. the Bodmenalp, 
which is a perfect garden in 
summer. The wild ch. is perched 
on the face of a cliff, near the 
mouth of a cave, and is dedi- 
cated to St. Michael : on that 
saint's day mass is said here. A 
bearded Franciscan used to occu- 
py the hermitage ; now the inn- 
keeper lights strangers through 
the cavern, 150 yards in the lime- 
stone rock behind it. A door at its 
farther end gives sudden access to 
fine upland pasturage, the Eben- 
alp, at whose summit is an Inn, 
20 min. walk from Wildkirchlein. 
View over the lake of Constance 
and the Suabian hills. No one 
should omit going through this 
natural tunnel. 

The following paths require a 
guide : — 

b. Sentis ML, ascent 6 easy hrs. 
Highest mtn. in Appenzell. Biih- 
ler a good guide ; charges 6 fr. 



Up the middle valley, past the See 
Alp see, to 

3 hrs. Meglisalp (4855 ft.) 
(refreshments and beds in chalet). 
Fossils in the nummulite rocks. 
Over a snow-patch, 

1 J hr. Wagenliicke, a gap in 
the rock. *View N. (see /). Here 
the snow-field begins; the way 
lies over it; the last 5 min. are 
difficult for ladies. Chamois not 
uncommon. 

i|hi\ Summit (8215 ft.). ^Pa- 
noramic view — 7 Kurfirsten, Eigi, 
Pilatus, Bernese chain, Titlis, 
*Glarnsch, Todi, Grison chain, 
Piz Beverin, Bernina chain, and' 
the Tyrolese mtns. A hut called 
Sentis Hotel (!) has been built 
near the top. 

c. Hohenkasten Mtn. Highest 
point of the Kamor range. As- 
cent 2 J hrs. ( Inn at top.) View 
Lake of Constance, and Vorarl- 
berg mtn. 

d. Sennewald, in the Rhine 
valley (7 J hrs.), passing over 
Hohenkasten (as in c). 

e. Sax, in the Rhine valley. 
From the lower end of the Fakler 
See, at the head of the Sentis 
Thai, the southernmost of the 3 
valleys. 

/. Wildhaus (Rte. 71) (7 hrs.), 
rather difficult; by the Wagen- 
lucke (see b). Thence, in an- 
other day to Wesen or Wallen- 
stadt. 



Rte. 69.-ST. GALL to UZ- 
NACH, by HEINRICHSBAD 
and HERISAU. 

30 Eng. m. 

M. M. 

ST. GALL to Wattwyl (dil.) i5£ 

Herisau (dil.) 5} Uznach „ 9 

Agreeable drive through a 



807 



Rte. 71.— The TOGGENBURG. 



308 



well-planted hilly country. Views 
here and there of distant Alps. 

Diligences twice daily in 6 hrs. to TTz- 
nach. From thence rly. to Zurich or 
Coire. 

St. Gall (Ete. 65). 

2 m. Kratzeren Briicke, and iron 
rly. Viaduct, across the gorge of 
the Sitter. A little after we enter 
canton Appenzell. 

3m. Herisau (2334 ft.) — Inns: 
Lowe (Lion), the best; Hecht 
(Brochet), — an industrious, irregu- 
larly-built vill. (9500 Inhab.), at 
the junction of 2 streams which 
work its factories. Muslins, 
cottons, and silk goods are made 
here : 10,200 persons in Ausser- 
Bhoden weave muslins, and a 
very large number embroider 
them. Church Tower, its lower 
part dates probably from the 
7th centy. Walks on the sur- 
rounding heights; two of them 
are topped by ruinous castles, 
the Eosenberg and Eosenburg, 
which, according to the story, 
were once connected by a leathern 
bridge. 

Hundswyler Tobel, a deep chasm, 
3 J m. from Herisau, deserves a 
visit. 

[Heinrichsbad, 1 m. N.E. The 
Badliaus is a most elegant 
establishment, surrounded by 
pleasure-grounds. Two springs 
rise out of gravel impregnated 
with iron and carbonic acid. 
Goats' whey and asses' milk are 
also to be had. Accommodation 
in a cowhouse! for invalids in 
chest. The neighbourhood is very 
pretty.] 

[To Appenzell (Ete. 68) (5 hrs.), 
by Waldstadt, if hr. ; Urnasch, 
1 J hr. ; and Gonten (baths), 1 hr.] 

G m. Schonengrund {Inn: Krone). 



Through an undulating country, 
we reach the frontier of Appenzell, 
and re-enter that of its grasping 
neighbour, St. Gall, before arriving 
at 

Peterzell. The road is car- 3 m. 
ried over the hills in sweeping 
curves, passing the site of Toggen- 
burg Castle, now razed. Descend 
to 

Lichtensteig ( Inn : Krone) 6 j m. 
(ioco Inhab.), on the Thur E. A 
picturesque oldwalledPZace; lofty 
buildings with porticoes. 

Wattwyl (Inns : Lion d'Or ; l| m. 
Eossli), a pretty manufacturing 
village. Thence past the convent 
of Santa Maria and the Castle of 
Iberg, over the ridge of Himmel- 
wald. View from its top : lake of 
Zurich, with Eapperschwyl and 
its bridge ; behind are the Alps 
of Schwytz and Glarus; E. the 
peaks of the Churfiirsten ; behind, 
the fertile vale of Toggenburg 
(Ete. 71). The road divides on 
the opposite side of the hill, rt. to 
Rapper schwyl, 1. to 

Uznach Stat, on rly. from Zii- 9 m. 
rich to Wesen and Coire (Ete. 13). 

Rte. 71.— The TOaaENBUEa. 
WYL to COISE. 

7 J posts = 70! Eng. m. 

M. 1 M. 

WYL to Wildhaus (dil). 10 

Wattwyl (dil.) I2i Haag „ 7f 
Nesslau „ 9 Coire (rly.) . 3i£ 

Diligence daily in about 7^ hrs. to the 
Haag Stat., on the rly. from Rorschach to 
Coire (Rte. 66). Fott road. 

The Toggenburg is the long 
and fertile valley of the Thur. It 
embraces almost all the features 
of Alpine scenery, save that it has 



309 Rte. n.— WESEN to SCHTYYTZ. 310 



no tract of level alluvial bottom. 
It is bounded by high mtns. — N. 
by the Sentis; S. by the Kur- 
fursten. It was anciently governed 
by counts of its own. When their 
line became extinct, 1436, the 
district was claimed by canton 
Zurich, and a war ensued, in 
which the Swiss cantons for the 
first time fought with one another. 
In 1469 it fell to the Abbot of 
St. Gall, whose successors had 
continual disputes with the inha- 
bitants, especially after the Kefor- 
mation. In 1 7 1 2 the abbots were 
expelled, but restored in 1718. 
Since 1803 the Toggenburg has 
formed part of canton St. Gall. 
It is thickly peopled ; its indus- 
trious inhabitants manufacture 
muslin and cotton. 

Wyl (Inn : Schonthal, or Post), 
on the rly. from "VYinterthur to 
St. Gall (Kte. 65). 

Up the 1. bank of the Thur, to 

9§ m. Bietfurth. Across the river to 

2 m. Lichtensteig 5 and on through 
Wattwyl (Kte. 69) to 

5m. Ebnat (Inns: Sonne ; Krone). 
2400 Inhab. ; cotton manuf. ; 
bridge over Thur. 

5 m. Nesslau (Inn : Krone), a scat- 
tered village, Pop. 2400. Ascent 
of Speer, 2000 ft. 

Through a defile to Stein 
(Krone ; capital trout). 

Alt St. Johann ( Inn : Hirsch), 
1650 Inhab. The district now 
becomes wilder. Upon the high 
ground dividing the valleys of 
the Thur and Khine stands the 
remote village 
10 m. "Wildhaus (Inn: Sonne, 
Hirsch), 3450 ft., at the S. base 
of the Sentis. It is the birth- 
place fJan. 1, 1484) of the Swiss 
reformer, Ulrich Zwingli. The 



humble house still exists in the 
hamlet Lisighaus. Zwingli' s fa- 
mily were peasants; he quitted 
home when 10 years old, to go to 
school at Bale. 

Castle Wilcleriburg, on an iso- 
lated limestone rock, 

[To Appenzell over the Kray 
Alp, Stiefel Schlucht, and Sentis, 
8 hrs., rather difficult (Kte. 79), 
to Weissbad.] 

The road, surmounting the 
Semmer Tobel (2 hrs.), descends 
by 2 sweeping zigzags into the 
valley of the Khine near Gams 
(Inns: Schafle; Lowe), fine view 
over Rhine, and soon after 
reaches 

Haag Stat, thence rly. (Kte. 7| m. 
66) to 

Coire (Kte. 66). 

There is another road from Haag, about 
a mile longer, by Werdenberg (Rte. 66), 
to the Buchs stat. on the Coire rly. 



Rte. 7 2. -WESEN or HIGH- 
TEKSCHWYL to SCHWYTZ 
— EINSIEBELN — MORGAK- 
TEN. 



WESEN to Eng. m. 

Lachen 15 

Schindelegi ..... 8 

Rothenthurni 7 

Schwytz 10 

RICHTERSCHWYL to 

Schindelegi . . . . . 3 



Total, Wesen to Schwytz, 40 m. ; Rich- 
terschwyl to Schwytz, 20 m. 

Diligence from Richterschwyl to Ein- 
siedeln daily in 4 hrs., and to Schwytz, 
and from Wesen to Lachen. 

Wesen. (Kte. 13.) The road, 
after crossing the Linth, keeps 
by the side of the hills to 

Lachen (Inn: Bar), a vill.,15 m. 
1200 Inhab., on the lake of Zii- 



311 



Rte. n.—WESEN to SCHWYTZ. 



312 



rich; thence alongside the lake 
to 

4 in. Pfaffikon, near the long bridge 
of Rapperschyl, and soon after- 
wards ascends the Etzel or Teusis- 
berg {Views), and crosses the 
Sihl at 

4 m. Schindelegi. The hermit Mein- 
rad, founder of Einsiedeln, ori- 
ginally fixed himself on the 
Etzel (a chapel stands on the 
supposed spot) but the people at- 
tracted by his reputation drove 
him further into the wilderness 
in search of solitude. Near the 
ch. is an Inn, and View of Einsie- 
deln. 

[The road from Richterschwyl 
ascends at once, and joins the 
other here.] 

1 J m . Biberbriicke {Inn : Post) . Here 
the road to Einsiedeln turns off 
to the 1. Passengers by dil. to 
Schwytz have a scramble for seats 
with those that arrive from Ein- 
siedeln. 

[To Einsiedeln. The road is 
studded with chapels called sta- 
tions, each representing some 
event in the Passion of our 
Lord. 

Einsiedeln (French, Notre 
Dame des Eremites ; Lat., Monas- 
terium Eremitarum). Inns : there 
are 55 inns and 20 alehouses 
here, mostly designed for the re- 
ception of poor pilgrims, and dis- 
tinguished by a singular variety 
of signs. Pfau (Paon), clean and 
good ; charges are raised during 
the pilgrimage. Drei Konige. 

The Abbey and Church, built 
to contain a miracle-working 
black image of the Virgiu, forms 
the nucleus of a small village. 
It rises high on a bare plain 



3000 ft., partly sheltered by a 
range of wooded hills on the S.E. 
It dates from 1 719, and is the 6th 
or 7th raised on this spot since 
the first foundation of the abbej 7 , 
the others having been burnt. 
It is separated from the village 
by a wide square. 

History. — The origin of the 
abbey is miraculously accounted 
for in a book of trash published 
under the authority of the monks, 
to the following effect : — In 
the days of Charlemagne an 
anchorite named Meinrad, of 
the noble family of Hohenzol- 
lern, came to this place, then 
a wilderness, to end his days 
in prayer, and to tend a black 
image of the Virgin given to him 
by St. Hildegarde. He was mur- 
dered by 2 robbers, who were 
pursued by Meinrad's 2 pet ravens, 
croaking after them as far as 
Zurich, where their guilt was de- 
tected. They were executed on 
the spot now occupied by the 
Raven Inn. A reputation of 
sanctity attached itself to the 
place. Meinrad's cell was rebuilt, 
a community of Benedictine her- 
mits (Einsiedlern) settled here, 
and a ch. was founded. When 
this ch. was about to be conse- 
crated by the Bishop of Constance, 
he was informed by angels that 
the ch. had been already conse- 
crated by the powers of Heaven, 
and in the presence of the Sa- 
viour. Pius VIII. pronounced this 
a true miracle, and granted ple- 
nary indulgence to all pilgrims 
who should repair to the shrine 
of Our Lady of the Hermits, in 
words inscribed upon the church. 
In consequence of this during 9 
cents, there has been an influx of 
pilgrims from surrounding coun- 
tries to this shrine, and of wealth 
to the monastery. Einsiedeln 



313 



Bte. 72 . — EINSIEDELN. 



314 



fire and water, effected by the 
miraculous interference of the 
image : nearly 300 new votive 
tablets are hung up yearly, older 
ones being removed to make way 
for them. 

Chapel "of the Magdalene is a 
ch. in size ; 1. of the choir are 28 
confessionals, over each of which 
is written the language in which 
confessions will be received in it, 
either German, Italian, French, 
or Komansch. 

Treasury was plundered by the 
1 French in 1 798 ; one splendid gold 
monstrance alone remains, but it 
is not readily shown. 

The monastery includes a 
library (32,000 vols.), a museum 
of fossils and minerals, and a free 
school and boarding-school, the 
pupils of which are taught by the 
monks. Zwingli, the reformer, 
was curate of Einsiedeln from 
1516^1519. Theophrastus Para- 
celsus von Hohenheim was born 
hereabouts in 1498.] 

[Footpath to Schwytz" 4J hrs., 
guide, under the Hacken mtn. {see 
Bte. 17), by Alpthal. Near the 
top is an inn, whence ascent of 
Hochstiickli (5 105 ft.) in \ hr. 

Diligence in 3 hrs. to Schwytz. 

The carriage-road ceases at 
Einsiedeln ; to proceed to Schwytz 
you must return to Biberbriicke. 



ranked second to St. Gall alone 
of all the monasteries in Switzer- 
land. Its abbot became a prince 
of the holy Eoman empire, with a 
seat in the diet. But the French 
stripped Einsiedeln in 1798 of its 
resources and treasures, and car- 
ried off Meinrad's figure of the 
Virgin to Paris ; but the monks, 
on abandoning the convent, trans- 
ported with them into Tyrol a 
duplicate figure, which they assert 
to be the authentic original. The 
abbey is still the richest in 
Switzerland, and the Black Vir- 
gin, whether an original or a 
copy, has lost none of her reputa- 
tion. The average annual num- 
ber of pilgrims who receive the 
sacrament in the ch. is 150,000. 
In 1861 about 36,000 pilgrims re- 
paired to the shrine within a fort- 
night. The great feast-day is 
Sept. 14. Many of the pilgrims 
are deputies paid by wealthier 
sinners to do penance. The con- 
vent contains about no Bene- 
dictine monks, including lay- 
brothers, novices, &c. 

Church, of Italian architecture, 
has been compared with that 
of St. John Lateran at Rome. 
The interior is gaudily orna- 
mented with inferior paintings, 
marble, and gilding. A few feet 
from the entrance stands the 
Shrine or Chapel of the Virgin, of 
black marble, with a grating in 
front, through which, by the glare 
of an ever-burning lamp, is seen 
the palladium of the temple, a 
little black wooden figure of the 
Virgin and Child, attired in gold 
brocade, glittering with jewels and 
crowned. Commonly hundreds, at 
times thousands, of devotees may 
be seen prostrate before it. The 
walls are here covered with votive 
tablets, rude paintings in oil, 
chiefly devoted to escapes from 



Rothenthurm {Inn dirty and 5 J m. 
extortionate; Lachen is better). 
800 Inhab. 

Its Red Tower formed part of 
the defences of a rampart (lctze), 
erected by the Schwytzcrs along 
their W. frontier. It extended as 
far as Arth. See Rigi Kulm in 
the distance. 

\~Biberegg, S. of Rothenthurm, 1 m. 
was the cradle of the Reding 
family. There is scarcely a battle 
in which the Redings are not men- 



315 



Bte. 73.— SCHWYTZ to GLARUS. 



316 



tioned; and they have 45 times 
filled the office of landamman. 
In 1798 Aloys Eeding led on the 
inhabitants of these mountains, in 
defence of their liberties, against a 
far outnumbering force of French. 
They drove the invaders as far 
back as Morgarten. This success, 
however, cost them so many men 
that they were unable to do more ; 
and additional French troops, 
marching into the canton, ren- 
dered further resistance hopeless.] 

3 m. Sattel. 

[To Morgarten and Egeri See, 
rt., 2 m. Scene of the first Swiss 
struggle for independence, Nov. 
15th, 1 3 15 . The Austrian Duke 
Leopold led his mailed cavalry 
along the narrow strand of the 
Lake of Egeri. The Swiss, a 
mere handful of peasantry, rolled 
rocks on them and attacked with 
swords and clubs. The Austrians 
were helpless, a panic seized them, 
and extended to the whole army 
behind. The Austrians lost the 
best of their nobility, and Leo- 
pold escaped with difficulty. This 
astounding victory, the Marathon 
of Swiss history, was gained in 
1 J- hr., over a force of 20,000 well- 
armed men, by 1300 mountaineers, 
who now for the first time met an 
army in the field.] 

A long descent, View of 
Schwytz, of the Mytheu (Mitre) 
mtns., and of Lowertz, with part of 
the fall of the Eossberg (Ete. 1 7), 
leads through Sattel, past the 
chapel of Ecce Homo, to 

3Jm. Steinen, a small vill. (Inns: 
Eossli, Krone), the birthplace of 
Werner StaufYacher, one of the 
three conspirators of the Grutli. 
A chapel to his memory, with rude 
frescoes of scenes from his life ; 
built 1400. The Bonehouse is as 
old as in 14 



[Path rt. to Goldau (Ete. 17), 
1} hr.] 

Schwytz (Ete. 1 7). 3} m. 

Travellers to the Rigi or Lucerne need 
not enter Schwytz. 



Rte. 73. — SCHWYTZ to 

GLARUS, by MUOTTA, the 

PRAGEL PASS, and the 
KLONTHAL. 

SCHWYTZ to m. hes. 

Muotta Thai (carriage-road) 9 3 

Summit of the Pragel (horse) io£ 3% 

Richisau (horse) . . . . 4} i|- 

Vorauen „ .... 3 1 

Glarus (char) . . . . . 8 3 

The regular charge for a horse from 
Schwytz to Glarus is 25 fr. (including 
return fare), but a higher rate is often 
demanded. Guide to Glarus 5 fr., and 
5 fr. return fare; or a boy can be hired at 
Muotta for 2 fr. to show the way to 
Richisau, beyond which no guide is 
needed. 

The Pragel is a difficult pass, 
not interesting from any fine 
view. Best scenery between 
Schwytz and Muotta. 

The carriage-road to Muotta 
crosses the plain and river to 

Xbach, at the mouth of the 
Muotta Thai. Then it ascends the 
1. bank of the stream, traversing 

Ober Schonenbach,^ down to 1 m. 
which point the Eussians, under 
Suwarrow, drove the French com- 
manded by Massena, Mortier, and 
Soult, in his desperate attempt to 
force his way through them to 
join the Eussian army at Zurich, 
in 1799. 

Muotta, or Miitten, 1994 ft. 7 m. 
(Inn: Hirsch, neat and clean), 
the principal village of the valley. 
Here also is the Nunnery of 
St. Joseph, a primitive convent, 
f. 1280. The sisters make then- 



317 



Bte. 73.—SCHWYTZ to GLABUS. 



318 



own clothes and their own hay ; 
the superior is called Frau Mutter. 
They will even give a lodging to 
a respectable traveller. He should 
remember that the convent is too 
poor to afford gratuitous hospi- 
tality. They speak no French. 
View, rt., into the Bisi Thai. 

[To Altorf, horsepath, by the 
Kinzig Culm, 9 hrs. ' It was by 
this that Suwarrow brought his 
troops. To Stachelberg (Ete. 75), 
by the Bisi Thai.] 

Russians and French. — On the 
night of Sept. 27th and 28th, 1 799, 
the inhabitants of the remote 
valley of Muotta were surprised 
by the arrival of 24,000 Kussians 
under Suwarrow, whose march out 
of Italy is recounted in Rtes. 34, 
75, and 80. Here the general first 
heard the news of the defeat of 
Korsakow and the main Russian 
army at Zurich. He was beset 
on all sides ; part of Lecourbe's 
division followed him, Molitor 
occupied the summit of the Muotta 
Thai, and Mortier and Massena 
its mouth. The attempt to cut 
his way out, through the forces of 
the latter general, was defeated, 
as already mentioned, though at 
vast loss to the French. The 
veteran conqueror was compelled, 
for the first time in his career, to 
order a retreat, and to cross the 
Pragel into Glarus. Moli tor's ad- 
vanced guard was quickly driven 
back, and made prisoners. Su- 
warrow's rear-guard, encumbered 
with sick, was greatly harassed 
by Massena ; but the French 
were again repulsed with loss, and 
driven back nearly to Schwytz. 
Suwarrow expected to reach Zurich 
from Glarus, there to join and 
rally the broken forces of Korsa- 
kow; but Molitor blocked up the 
outlet of the Linth Thai, as Mas- 
sena had blocked the Muotta Thai , 



and the Russian once more was 
baffled. Fearing to be hemmed 
in, he gave his troops a few days 
of indispensable rest at Glarus, 
after which he once more took to 
the mtns., ascending the Sernft 
Thai (Rte. 80) and crossing the 
Panixer Pass to the Grisons, 

The Pragel pass is scarcely fit 
for horses on the Muotta side. 
There are no difficulties on the 
Glarus side. 

From the inn at Muotta the 
path leads among fields and 
houses. 

Bridge across stream from 2 nr - 
Pragel ; rocky and rugged ascent 
up its 1. bank. 

Cross (there is a second cross 2 hrs. 
farther on), after which and at 
the top there are large boggy 
patches with planks and stones 
across them. No striking scenery 
on this side. 

Pragel Col (5062 ft.). Chalet, 1 hr. 
bread, wine, &c, but abandoned 
in Sept. No View. 

The descent is at first gentle: 
the path then makes a detour 1. of 
an ancient moraine, and descends 
rapidly through pines to 

Kichisau (clean rustic Inn, 1J hr. 
kept by civil people). The Klon- 
thal, through which the way lies, 
is beautiful. Rt. the Glarnisch 
rises in a precipice, terminated by 
an edge of ice ; and 1. is the Weg- 
gis, scarcely less abrupt. Over 
pastures and meadows, to 

Vorauen (good country Inn). | ln\ 
A country cart with seats can 
generally be had : it is best to 
sleep here, and go next morning 
to Glarus. The landlord has a 
boat upon the Klonsee, by which 
the walk may be shortened 2 m., 
and the scenery seen to perfection. 
It lies embedded deeply at the 



319 



Bte. 74. — WE8EN to GLABUS. 



320 



foot of the grey Glarnisch, and is 
surrounded by meadows, covered 
until the end of autumn with 
flowers. The precipitous tracks 
along the side of the valley, along 
which some adventurous French 
pushed forward in pursuit of the 
Kussians, are pointed out. Ebel 
calls the Klonthal " une des val- 
lees les plus gracieuses quil y ait 
dans les Alpes." Epitaph on a 
rock of Solomon Gessner, the pas- 
toral poet, author of the 'Death 
of Abel,' who used here to spend 
the summer in a chalet. 
[Ascent of Glarnisch.] 
Excellent char-road alongside 
the lake for 3 m., and thence into 
the valley of Glarus, which is 
reached at 

J m. Riedern, a manufact. vill. : 
thence turn rt. S.E. to 

1 m. Glarus (Rte. 74). 



Rte. 74.— WESEN to GLA- 
RUS and the BATHS of 
STACHELBERG and HEAD 
of LINTHAL. 

WESEN to 

Glarus (railway) . . . i hour. : 
Stachelberg (dil.) . . .11 miles. 
Pantenbriicke (bridle-rd.) . 2 hours. 
Upper Sand Alp CMlets(foot) zi „ 

Ely. from Wesen to Glarus, 5 times 
a day, £ nr. 

The canton of Glarus, or Glaris, 
consists of one great Alpine valley, 
and of its tributaries, penetrating 
deep into the high Alps. There 
is but one carriage-road into it, 
which terminates, after 19 J m., 
at the baths of Stachelberg. 

From Wesen the rly. crosses 
the Linth canal (Rte. 13), and 
enters the jaws of the valley of 
Glarus, flanked by precipices, and 



backed by the vast snowy head 
of Mt. Glarnisch. 

Ziegelbriicke Stat. ; large cot- 
ton factory. 

Nafels Stat (Inns: Hirsch ; 
Schwerdt) is a Swiss battle-field of 
some celebrity. 1 1 simple stones, 
inscribed 1388, on the meadow of 
Reuti, mark the spot where, in 
that year, 1300 men of Glarus 
met a force of 6000 Austrians, 
and finally repulsed them, with a 
loss of 2500. The anniversary is 
still celebrated. An engagement 
also took place here, in 1799, be- 
tween the Austrians and French. 

Escliers canal for carrying the 
Linth R. into L. Wallenstadt 
begins opposite Nafels. (Rte. 13.) 

Mollis. (Inn: Bear.) 

The valley of the Linth is sub- 
ject to much injury from its sud- 
den rises. The limestone mtns. 
abound in caverns, which serve 
as reservoirs for melting snows. 
In spring the rocks appear to 
stream from every pore. 

Glarus (Glaris, Fr.), 1489 ft. 
(Inns : Glarner Hof, clean; Rabe ; 
Railway Restaurant). This town, 
4826 Inhab., was burnt down 
in 1 861, the S. wind (Fohn) 
fanning the flames and rendering 
them irresistible, but it has been 
most substantially rebuilt. Glarus 
(a corruption of St. Hilar ius) is a 
prosperous manufacturing place 
(calico-printing, &c), and re- 
markable for its situation, en- 
compassed by mtns., whose bare 
precipices contrast with the ver- 
dure about their base. Among 
the new buildings remark the 
church with 2 spires, the Rath- 
haus, and the Courts of Justice. 
The Arsenal, and hospital, and 
schools escaped the fire. The 



321 Ete. H.—GLABUS- 



1—STA CHELBEBG. 



322 



Church is open to Protestant and 
Eomanist alike. Zwingli was pas- 
tor here, 1506 to 1546. 

Burghugel, an eminence sur- 
mounted by 4 chapels. Here is 
the best view of the town anclmts. 
around; Glarnisch, Schilt, and 
Wiggis. 

The green cheese called Schab- 
zieger, of cows' milk, and not of 
goats', is peculiar to the canton 
Glarus. It owes its appearance, 
smell, and flavour to an herb (Me- 
lilotus cserulea ; blue melilot ; 
Germ. Honigklee), which is culti- 
vated for the purpose. 

Beyond the Linth, in the vil. 
of Enneda, is the vast cotton 
factory of Jeune and Co. 

The charge for horses, guides, and 
porters in the valley of Glarus is very 
high, and the beasts are very bad. 

Many mountain-paths ramify from 
Glarus. 

a. To Schwytz (Ete. 73) by the Pragel 
and Muotta. 

b. To Lake of Wallenstadt. (1) over 
the W. shoulder of the Murtschenstock 
(Rte. 13) and the Keren zenberg ; (2) to 
Murg, passing under the E. of the Murt- 
schenstock. The ascent of the Murtschen- 
stock may be easily combined with either 
of these excursions. Guide is needed. 

c. To the Vorder Rhein through the 
Sernft Thai:— (1) The Segnes Pas (Rte. 
79). (2) The P an\xer Pass (Rte. 80). 

d. To Canton St. Gall through the 
Sernft Thai:— (1) The Flumser Pass, 
from Matt vill. to the Flums rly. stat. 
(Rte. 14). (2) The Riseten Pass, from 
Matt to Sargans rly. stat., said to be easy. 
O) The Ramin Pass, from Elm to Sargans 
(see Rte. 79), about 10 hrs. walk. The 
baths of Pfeffers may be reached by 
either of these 3 passes, by crossing the 
ridge between Weisstannen, and the Kal- 
feuser Thai. 

Glarus to Stachelberg and Head 

of Linthal. 
Light carr. to Stachelberg (inch return) 
10 fr. and bonnemain. Diligence twice 
a day. It will set down passengers 
at Stachelberg Baths. The road passes 
many thriving factories, worked by the 
Linth. 

Bridle-path to Pantenbrucke. Thence 
by foot. 
Kp. Switz. 



Glarus. Views of Todi a little 

before, and up to 

Schwanden (Inn : Adler), at 3 J m. 
junction of Sernft and Linth. 

Luchsingen {Inn: Freihof).3J m. 
The diligence diverges rt. from 
the main road, a little before 

Stachelberg {Hotel and Baths, 4 m - 
good, but often overcrowded on 
Sundays), on 1. bank of Linth. 
It has greatly risen in repute 
on account of the beauty of its 
situation, and the virtues of its 
concentrated alkaline sulphureous 
spring, which distils, drop by 
drop, from a fissure in the Braun- 
berg. The hotel is surrounded 
by walks and pleasure-grounds. 
Mobs of holiday-makers on Sun- 
days. The valley of the Linth 
abounds in fine waterfalls. 

The diligence now returns to 
the high-road, and on to 

Lintiitlial {Bins : Zum B'aren, 1 m. 
Post, cheap and fair; Babe). 
Pedestrians may prefer this to the 
hotel at Stachelberg, which is 
dearer, and a little more distant 
from the Pantenbrucke, and the 
head of the valley. The Linth 
valley now becomes more savage. 

Fall of Fatschbach, i hr's. walk. 

Char-road ends and bridle-path 
beqins. 

Fall of the Schreyenhach, ofl br. 

the Staubbach kind, which, when 
seen from below, appears to issue 
from the sky. It comes down in 
a shower of water-rockets. It is 
well worth while to turn aside 
from the regular path, in order to 
approach the fall on the opposite 
side of the river. 

The bed of the river contracts 
into 1 a chasm. A narrow path 
leads along the edge of the preci- 
pice. 

M 



323 Bte. 15.— MUOTTA to STAGHELBEBG. 324 



ljhr. Pantenbriicke, a bridge, at a 
spot where the gorge is deepest. 
Eebuilt since 1851, when the old 
bridge was swept away by an 
avalanche. 

Bridle-path ends and footpath 
begins. 

The gorge now becomes even 
more romantic and wild; it is 
surpassed by few in the Alps. 
I hr. A tributary torrent 1. has a 
channel, but a few yards in width 
and many hundreds of feet deep, 
through the mass of the Selbsanft 
mt, which rises in tiers of preci- 
pices to about 10,000 ft. Beyond 
this the path crosses the stream, 
and the gorge opens out. After 
some slopes of shale at the base 
of the Gemsistock, there is another 
bridge to the E. bank, and a little 
farther are the 

l.i hr. Lower Sand Alp chalets, 4101 
ft. Milk and cheese. * Views 
grand, though confined. S. is the 
Biferten glacier. Its torrent joins 
the main stream, here called Sand- 
bach, a little below the higher 
chalets. The Sandbach flows 
from an upper plateau W. of the 
Lower Sand Alp, in a magnificent 
cascade. It is not, however, well 
seen from any point easy of access. 
The path zigzags up the Ochsen- 
blanke, and crosses the Sandbach 
just above the waterfall. 

2hrs. Upper Sand Alp chalets, or 
Oberstaffel, 6358 ft, in bright 
green pastures, surrounded by 
rugged snow-capped peaks. The 
position is admirable for glacier 
expeditions. They are, however, 
but comfortless quarters, always 
fleas, and sometimes incivility and 
extortion. A cabin has been built 
much higher up the Dodi by the 
Swiss Alpine Club. 



[To Disentis (Ete. 82) over 
the Sand Alp 9 fine and not diffi- 
cult glacier pass.] 

[To Amsteg, on the St. Got- 
thard (Ete. 34), over the glaciers 
of the Clariden Grat, and through 
the Maderanerthal. Good guides, 
ropes, &c] 

[The Dodi or Todiberg (11,880 
ft.) is the giant of this portion of 
the chain of Alps. It has been 
lately often ascended.] 

The Swiss Alpine Club are 
busy in this district, and have pub- 
lished a good map of the mtns. 
and glaciers in it. 



Rte. 75.— MUOTTA to the 
BATHS of STACHELBEEGr, by 
the BISI THAI; or to AL- 
TOUF, by the KINZIG KTJLM. 

By Bisi Thai. By Kinzig Kulm. 
MUOTTA to Hrs. MUOTTA to Hrs. 
Stackelberg . 9^- Altorf . . . 7I 

Neither pass presents scenery 
of the first order, but the Bisi 
Thai has the advantage of being a 
short cut from Muotta to Stachel- 
berg, and the pass of the Kinzig 
Kulm has historical interest. 

To Altorf by the Bisi Thai. 

Leaving Muotta, the scenery is 
wild. There are overhanging 
precipices and woods. Horse- 
path to 

Eigen, a hamlet. Beyond 2 J hr, 1 
this is a footpath. Guide needed. 
After leaving the Bisi Thai the 
scenery is savage. 

Summit across which the path 
runs is a rugged plain of rock, 



325 Rte. 75.— MUOTTA to ST A CHELBERG — K. KTJLM. 326 



miles in extent, without vegeta- 
tion of any kind, except on a cen- 
tral green oasis ; the whole is sur- 
rounded by snowy peaks. The 
streams, instead of finding their 
way into the valley, cascade into 
the bowels of the mountain. This 
arises from the strata of the rock 
being nearly vertical, which has 
also caused the harder edges of 
rock to project in ridges something 
like a petrified and highly-cre- 
vassed glacier. 

Descent is steep. No inn by 
the way. 

7hrs. Baths of Stachelberg (Rte. 
74). 

Muotta to Altorf by the Kinzig 
Kulm. 

Muotta. The track turns up 
a valley rt., and ascends due S., 
reaches a torrent deep in a chasm, 
and arrives at an upper valley, 
where it crosses the torrent to 

l|hr. Chalets. Valley is narrow; 
" soon the torrent is recrossed, and 
a forest traversed. 

1-hr. Bridges. The valley opens, 
and the track is seen ascending 
from the S.W. corner. At this 
corner the river is again crossed. 

ljhr. Summit of the K. Kulm Pass 

(6791 ft.), marked by a short pole. 
View best from an eminence 10 
m. E. of the Col. 

Russians. — Great historical in- 
terest is attached to the Kinzig 
Kulm as the scene of Suwarrow's 
disastrous march from Altorf in 
j 799. Having pounced down, as 
it were, upon the French from the 
heights of the St. Gotthard, and 
driven them to Altorf, he there 
found his progress barred by the 
lake of Lucerne, without a boat 
to cross it, liis troops exhausted 



by fatigue and famine, and the 
country so drained by war as to 
be incapable of supporting them. 
The only alternative was to join 
the allies, through the defile of 
the Schachen, and across the high 
Alps. The passage up this valley 
was a mere path ; so that his army 
was obliged to advance in a single 
file, abandoning much of their 
artillery and baggage. Their 
march lasted 14 hrs. ; and before 
the rear-guard had left Altorf, the 
van had reached Muotta. Many 
of the Russians sank from fatigue 
by the wayside and perished; 
others fell into the hands of the 
French, who hovered in their 
rear ; the valley was strewn with 
dead bodies of men and horses, 
with arms and equipments. The 
remainder of this memorable 
march is described in Rte. 73. 

Ascent is long ; the pole on the 
Kinzig Kulm, being seen for a 
long time, would help to guide 
the ascending pedestrian on the 
S. side, though not on the other. 
The path lies throughout down 
the pastures on rt. bank of the 
stream, but generally at a con- 
siderable distance from it. 

Schachen Thai is reached a 2 J hi 
little below Spiringen. 

Burglen (Rte. 34). | hr. 

Altorf (Rte. 34). J hr. 



327 R. 76, 77.— ST A CHELBERG to AL TOEF DISENTIS. 328 



Rte. 76.— STACHELBEKG to 
ALTOBF, by the KLAUSEN 
PASS. 

STACHELBERG to H. M. 

Summit 4 30 

TJnter Schaehen ...20 

Spiringen 10 

Altorf ....... 1 30 

The scenery is interesting. The 
Schaehen Thai is much finer than 
the Muotta Thai. 

Horse-path. — Horse from Stachelberg 
to summit, 12 fr. ; to Altorf, 24 fir. and 
trmkgeld. No guide needed. 

Stachelfcerg. Path leaves val- 
ley of the Linth above the baths 
at 

J hr. Aue, and ascends the valley of 
the Fatsch, keeping along its 1. 
bank ; a very stiff pull. 

Urner Boden is a scattered 
hamlet of 80 houses, with a eh., 
extending the whole length of the 
valley. 

3 hrs. Inn, homely ; by the Chapel. 

ljhr. Summit of Klaus en Pass 

(643 7 ft.), between Clariden Mts. 
and the Windgelle. A small 
chapel stands here. 

View from an eminence a little 
to the N. 

5 hr. Path, divides at head of valley 
— one takes one side, the other 
the other; either will do. The 
usual track is 1. by a rapid de- 
scent. 

Cascade 1. of the Staubi. 

11 hr. TJnter Schaehen vill. (a small 
Inn). A branch of the valley 
opens S. ; the main stream of the 
Schaehen comes down it. 
[Visit glacier of the Gr.Kuchen.] 



Spiringen (Inn) ; also a little 1 hr. 
lower down, near the chapel of 
St. Anthony, an Inn, both tole- 
rably good for this country. 

Biirglen, the birthplace ofl hr. 
Tell, stands at the mouth of the 
Schachenthal. (Kte. 34.) 

Altorf (Ete. 34). J hr. 



Stachelberg (see Kte. 74) to 

Upper Sand Alp (6358 ft.). 5 J hrs 
Sleep here. 

Sand Glacier is reached and § hr. 
mounted S.W. With proper pre- 
cautions there is neither difficulty 
nor danger. 

Summit of Sand Grat (91374 hrs. 
ft.), between the Catscharauls rt., 
and Kleiner Todi 1. 

* View of surrounding Alps. 

The Todi (11,886 ft.) is pro- 
minent. 

Descent steep, but not difficult, 
partly over loose stones. 



Rte. 77.— STACHELBERG to 
DISENTIS, by the SAND 
GKAT. 

STACHELBERG to Hrs. 
Ober Sand Alp (chalets . . si 
Disentis Alp (chalets) . . 6 
Disentis 2f 

Glacier precautions and good guides are 
needed. 14 hrs. Stachelberg to Disentis : 
14 hrs. the reverse way. 

Procure the excellent chart of the neigh- 
bourhood of the Todi by the Swiss Alpine 
Club, pub. 1863-4, Dv Dalp, bookseller, 
Berne. It is on a threefold larger scale 
than the Government map. 



329 



Bte. 79. — GLARUS to BEICHENAU. 



330 



ljhr. Disentis Alp. Two hours as- 
cending ; where there are 2 or 
3 chalets, occupied in the height 
of summer. Thence S. through 
the glen of Vol Bosein, chiefly 
amongst pine-trees, overhung by 
rocks. 

] j hr. Koad from Ilanz to Disentis, 
close to a wooden bridge across 
the stream from the Val Rosein. 

| hr. Disentis ( Inns : Krone, or 
Post, comfortable, civil landlord ; 
Adler, or Rathaus) (see Rte. 82). 



Rte. 79.— GLAEUS cr STA- 
CHELBEEGr to EEICHEKAU 
— RICHETLI and SEGrNES 
PASSES. 

There are 2 passes between 
Glarus and the Voider Rhein. 
They are both approached by the 
Sernft Thai, up which is a char- 
road as far as Elm. 

GLARUS to m. STACHELBERG 
Kim (char) .133- to hrs. 

Elm ... 7 

Glarus, up the Linthal, as in 
Rte. 74. 

3 J m. Schwanden. Here the Sernft 
valley opens out, and is ascended 

fey 

4 m. Enghi (Inn). A little beyond 
this, * View of Glarnisch Mt. 

2jm. Matt. [To Sargans (7 hrs.) 
(horse-path ?) 1., up the Krauch- 
thal, over the Riseten Pas?.] 
The quarries, opposite Matt, 



furnish excellent slates, formerly 
exported to Holland and the 
Indies. Most of the schools in 
Switzerland are supplied from 
hence. It abounds in casts of 
fossil fish. In the lower valley 
there is goitre and cretinism ; but 
in the upper part the race is fine 
and hardy. 

Elm (Inn: Jacob Elmers, com- 3} r 
fortable). 

Stachelberg to Elm. Fool ith 
(7 hrs.) over the Richetli Fas *. 

From Stacked erg, up the 
Duma Thai. At its head the 
track is faintly marked, and bears 
1. (or E.). 

Summit of Eiclietli Pass. 4 hi 

Descent is easy and well marked. 
No guide needed. 

Elm. 3 hr 

From Elm there are 3 passes : — 

a. Panixer Pass to Ilanz, 8 hrs. (Rte. 8c.) 

b. Segnes Pass to Flims, 7 hrs. 

c. Ramin foot-pass to Sargans (? hrs.) ; 
or Pfeffers, 12 hrs. 

By Segnes Pass. 
ELM to Hrs. 
Reichenau (foot) . . 10 

By Ramin Pass. 
ELM to Hrs. 
Sargans (foot) . . . 

Segnes Pass. Heinrich Elmer is 
well spoken of as a guide. 

Elm. The path crosses the 
Sernft just above the village, and 
follows its S.E. branch. Thence 
up the Segnes, mounting E., first 
over pastures, and then over stones, 
where the path is lost, until it 
approaches the 

Martinsloch, a singular hole 
through the mtn., through which 
on March 4 and 5, and Sept. 14 
and 15, the sun shines upon the 



331 



Rte. 80.— GLARUS to ILANZ. 



332 



village ch. of Elm. It lies 8oo ft. 
below the peak of the Segues 
Spitz. 

Segxies Pass (8615 ft.) is the 
nearest to the Martinsloch. Se- 
veral depressions lie to the E., over 
which a way might probably be 
found into the Kalfeuser Thai. 

Descending 1 , some steep rocks 
and slopes of snow lead down to 
the 

Plimssr Pirn, a small glacier 
in a hollow, resembling a frozen 
lake. This is crossed S.E., and 
the rocks are again reached E. of 
the glacier-stream. Keeping 1. 
of a tract of wet boggy ground ; 
the path descends over pastures 
to 

8hrs. Films (rough Inn). 

Better quarters are found by 
pushing on (6 m.) by char-road 
to 

2 hrs. Beichenau (Inn : Adler) (Rte. 
82). 



Ramin Pass. 

Elm. Ascent by a rough path, 
impassable for horses. 

4 hrs. Ramin Grat (7332 ft.). View 
said to be fine. 

Descent not easy to find with- 
out a guide. 

? hrs. Weisstannen (Inn : homely, 
good). 

3hrs. f Mels Rly. Stat, at mouth of 
Weisstannen Thai. 

£hr. Sargans Rly. Stat. 



To reach Pfeffers turn S.E. 
after the first chalet iu the Weiss- 
tannen Thai, and cross 2 ridges 
into the Kalfeuser Thai, which 
may be followed to Pfeffers. This 
is a long day's walk of fully 12 
hrs., and a guide is indispensable. 
At Vdttis, in the Kalfeuser Thai, 
there is a poor Inn. 



Rte. 80.— GXAHTJS to ILANZ, 
by the PANIXER PASS. 

GLARUS to [ Hrs. 

Miles. Panix (foot) . 5I 
Elm (char) . 14 Ilanz (horse . 2 ; 

From Glarus take char-road to Elm 
(see Ete. 79). 

From Stachelberg go by the Richetli 
pass, meeting the path to the Panixer, 
near the chalets of Wichlen, about 4 m. 
above Elm. It would be a hard day's 
work to accomplish both passes. No 
accommodation before reaching Panix 
rill. 10 hrs. good walking from the Baths. 
From Elm 8 hrs. to Ilanz. 

G-larus, by Ete. 79. Char-road to 
Elm. Char-road ends. 

Head of Sernft Thai, inljhr. 

front of the opening S. to the 
Panixer pass. The scenery on 
the ascent is wild and desolate ; 
the ground rises in gigantic steps, 
forming open flats borne up by 
precipices. On the first of these 
flats are the 

Chalets of the Jazer Alp; thef hr. 



333 



Bte. 80.— GLABUS to ILANZ. 



334 



last in the valley. The track is 
now marked by poles. 

lfhr. Panixer Pass (7906 ft.). View 
over the Grisons ; not remarkable, 
except for extent. 

Descent at first marked by 
poles, and tnms W. towards a 
glacier fed by the Hausstock. At 
the edge of a steep declivity the 
track ceases. The path may 
again be perceived on an Alp 
beneath. Before reaching this 
Alp, the stream, jnst sprang from 
its glacier, must be waded through. 
Then over the half-barren Alp, 
which is based on precipices 
above the valley of Panix. 

Kecross the stream (which runs 
in a deep chasm, hardly a yard in 
width, intersecting the Alp), and 
pass along the face of the pre- 
cipices E., passing in one place 
by a shelf cut out of the rock. 
After a fall of snow, this passage 
might be dangerous. 

The path now opens upon a 
wide pasturage, and turns first E. 
and then N.E., to double the head 
of the ravine. 

The rest of the way is not diffi- 
cult, save that the woods are em- 
barrassing, to 

2hrs. Panix (small country Inn). 
View back upon the pass. All 
approach seems barred by preci- 
pices. 

The path is now good ; it runs 
high above the stream, and 
emerges on the heights that over- 
look the Vorder Ehein. *Vieivs 
of this valley. Thence through 
pleasant fields and woodlands : at 
length the path descends more 
rapidly. 

1 hr. Ruvis, on the high road to 
ihr. Ilanz (Ete. 82). 



Bussiam and French. — Suwar- 
row, after the almost incredible 
march detailed in Etes. 73, 75, 
remained like a stag at bay for 
3 or 4 days at Glarus to rest, 
though not a day was passed 
without skirmishes. At length, 
finding it hopeless to attack a 
French force now so greatly supe- 
rior, he adopted the only alterna- 
tive, of again leading his ex- 
hausted and diminished followers 
over the high Alps, to rescue 
them from annihilation, and to 
unite himself with the fragments 
of the Eussian army in the Gri- 
sons. He broke up from his 
quarters on the 5 th of October. 
The lateness of the season, the 
difficulties of the passage, and 
the vastly superior force pressing 
on his dispirited soldiers, rendered 
this a far more hazardous enter- 
prise than that which he had 
previously accomplished. The 
miserable path up the valley 
would barely admit two men 
abreast : along this the army 
painfully wound its way in single 
file. The difficulty was greatly in- 
creased by a fall of snow 2 ft. deep ; 
and the indefatigable French, 
ascending the opposite bank of 
the Sernft, allowed the Eussians 
no respite from their assaults. 
Numbers lay down, from exhaus- 
tion, to perish on the snow ; many 
slipped over the rocks, polished 
by frost, into the abyss below, 
while the enemy's bullets further 
thinned their ranks. After 5 days 
of toil, and 4 nights on the bare 
snow, where many were frozen to 
death, Suwarrow crossed the ridge 
of Panix, and on Oct. 10 gained 
Ilanz. Even while descending, 
many perished in the chasm of 
the Araschka Alp. For months 
birds and beasts of prey were 
gorged with their bodies, and the 



335 



Bte. $2.— COIRE io ANDERMATT. 



336 



bones of many of them may still 
be found in the ravines of the 
Jatzer. Thus ended a march of 
1 8 days' duration, perhaps the 
most extraordinary ever performed 
by an army, incessantly engaged, 
righting a battle almost every day, 
and obliged to traverse a country 
unknown, and completely desti- 
tute of resources. Suwarrow's re- 
treat was accomplished with the 
loss of all his artillery, the greater 
part of the beasts of burden, and 
one-third of his men. 



Rte. 82. — COIRE, up the 
VALLEY of the VORDEE 
RHEIN", to DISENTIS, and 
across the OBERALP PASS to 
ANDEBMATT. 

COIEE to m. M. 

Reichenau . 6 Sedrun ... 6 

Ilanz ... 14 Oberalp Pass . 6 

Disentis . . 19 Andermatt . . 7 

Post and carriage-road since 1866 to 
Andermatt. Diligence daily in 10 hrs. to 
Disentis; rj£ hrs. to Andermatt. 

Coire to Disentis fine scenery, 
like Deeside, in Scotland ; small 
castles on numerous heights. 
Disentis to Andermatt, chiefly 
over open pasture. The Inns are 
bad, except at Ilanz. Romansch 
is usually spoken. 

Coire (Ete. 67), by post-road 
up the valley of the Rhine to 



Reichenau (Inn : Adler) (Rte. 6 m. 
87)— where the Vorder and Hin- 
ter-Rhein unite. The road to Ilanz 
keeps on the L, or N. bank of the 
Rhine. 

Ascent up the side of the hill to 

Tamins, directly over Reiche- 
nau. View up both valleys of the 
Rlrine. The entrance of that of 
Hinter-Rhein, up which runs the 
road to the Spliigen, is guarded 
by the castle of Rsezuns, backed 
by villages and church towers 
without number. 



Waldhauser (a rustic Inn). 1 m. 



Rhine is again reached. 3 J m. 



Ilanz (in Romansch, Glion.) — 1 m. 
(Inns : Oberalp, on rt. bank ; 
Zum Lukmanier.) Ilanz stands 
astride the Rhine, and is the only 
place in the valley deserving the 
name of town (Pop. 650), and is 
the capital of the Graue Bund 
(Rte. 66). It is now poor, but was 
once the abode of many noble 
families. 

View from Piz Mundaun (6929 
ft.). S.W. of the town, 3 hrs. 
I ascent. 



Trins (Inn: Post), under the 
Castle Hohen-Trins. Here our 
road turns aside from the Rhine 
(a foot-path saves the detour), and 
rises by a steep ascent into a se- 
questered upland basin, in the 
midst of which lies 

Flims (Rom. Flem.), 3360 ft. 7 m. 
(Inn : Poste, rough) — named from 
the number of sources around it, 
ad flumina. [To Glarus, by the 
Segues pass (Rte. 79).] 



Lax. Thence, after a steep 2 J m. 
descent, the 



337 Ute. S2.— V0BDER RHEIN—DISENT1S. 



338 



Cliars and horses for the Lukmanier 
(Hte. 86). 

2| m. Ruvis. [rt. Panixer pass (Ete. 
8i). Scene of Suwarrow's re- 
treat.] 

5 m. Tavanasa. Cross Ehine to rt. 
bank, and recross before 

5 m. Trons (Inns : Krone, " not 
well reputed;" H. Todi) — in a 
singularly beautiful situation. Re- 
markable as the cradle of liberty 
among the Rhcetian Alps, where 
the people first liberated them- 
selves from the oppression of their 
feudal lords, 3 or 4 of whose castles, 
now in ruins, still remain. 

Near the entrance (E.) of the vill. 
stands the venerated trunk of a 
Sycamore (Acer Pseudoplatanus ; 
German, Ahorn), 6 or 7 centys. 
old, cloven and hollow, beneath 
whose branches, in March, 1424, 
the deputies of the peasants met 
the nobles who were favourable 
to their cause, and took the oath 
of fidelity to one another, and to 
their free constitution then esta- 
blished. Such is the origin of the 
Grey League, Graue Bund (Rte. 
66), so called from the grey beards 
or the grey homespun garb of the 
venerable assembly. A vigorous 
young shoot has sprouted forth 
from the hollow trunk, and is pro- 
tected by a railing. Close to the 
sycamore-tree stands the little 
Chapel of St. Anne, whose portico 
is adorned with Bible texts, &c, 
and with fresco paintings of the 
first formation of the League, and 
of the renewal of the oath in 
1778. 

The valley about and above 
Disentis is Roman Catholic. The 
mtns. change from limestone to 
primitive rocks. 

Somvix (Rom. Sumvig; Lat. 



Summus-vicus), abounding in 
cherry-trees [1., to Olivone by the 
Greina pass]. This part of the 
road shows grand works of engi- 
neering—tunnels and bridges — 
the chief of which, over Rosein 
Tobel, of wood, roofed, 210 ft. 
long, surmounts the ravine 
through which the principal 
glacier torrents draining the Todi 
range are poured into the Rhine. 

Disentis (Inns : Hotel Condrau 
(Post); Krone, civil landlord). 
Living cheap ; game plentiful ; 
Cristallina cheese and Tavetsch 
honey. The once princely Be- 
nedictine Abbey (Rom., Mustar; 
Lat., Monasterium) is one of the 
oldest in Switzerland, founded, it 
is said, by the Scotch monk Sieg- 
bert, a companion of St. Gall, 
a.d. 614, as the nucleus of early 
civilization in this then wild 
country. It is now a cantonal 
school, and stands on a terrace 
(3802 ft.) with a village at its 
base, near the head of a rather 
long ascent, and at the junction 
of the two Alpine torrents which 
unite in forming the Vorder- 
Rhine. The Abbey was burnt in 
1 799, by the French, and along 
with it the library formed in the 
7th and 8th centuries. It was 
again burnt in 1846, but rebuilt, 
and is now used as a school for 
the Canton. It towers above the 
hovels of the village below, as its 
abbots, in the middle ages, lorded 
it over their vassals. They were, 
at one time, firm allies of the 
House of Habsburg, and the abbot 
and his banner occupied the van 
at the battle of Morgarten. At a 
later period, however, 1424, Abbot 
Peter of Pontaningen was one of 
the founders of Grison liberty, 
who met under the sycamore at 
Trims. 



339 Rte. OBERALP. S3.—AMSTEG to D1SENT1S. 340 



[To Sta. Maria up the Medels Thai : 
thence— a. To Bellinzona by the Luk- 
manier (Rte. 85). Id. To Airolo by the 
Uomo (Rte. 84). To Amsteg by the 
Kreuzli (Rte. 83). To Stachelberg by 
glacier pass over the Dodigrat (Rte. 77).] 

'Railway through the ridge of 
the Lukmanier has been sur- 
veyed. 

Disentis is a convenient station 
for travellers, but the charges for 
horses are high, and the cattle are 
poor. 

Disentis to Andermatt, 7 hrs., 
post and carringe-road completed 
1866. 

The road to the Oberalp at once 
ascends the vale of Tavetsch by 
the k bank of the Vorder-Rhine, 
now reduced to a mountain-torrent. 
It leaves on 1. the village Mom- 
petavetsch ; 

Sedrun or Tave'tsch, the chief 
place in the valley (Inn : Krone). 
In ch. a carved altarpiece. 

Euaras (Rom., St. Giacomo) 
(Inn : H. Oberalp), a vill. much 
exposed to avalanches ; the name 
signifies "ruin/' Chars may be 
obtained. Ruins of the Castle of 
Pultmenga or Pontaningen. 

In 1808 an avalanche fell from 
the Ruenatsch upon the village 
of Selva, and killed 42 human 
beings and 237 head of cattle. 

6 m. Chiaxnot, post-stat, 3 J leagues 
from Disentis, 3 J from Andermatt 
(5 3 80 ft.), is the last village with 
a church. The V order-Rhine has 
3 branches. At Chiamot the 
l.-hancl branch is crossed, and the 
middle branch followed for about 
a mile, after which, adieu to the 
Rhine. [The source of the Vorder- 
Rhine is in the Toma See, a 
small tarn at the N.W. base of 
the Mt. Badus.] The new post- 
road, adopting a line more safe 



from avalanches than the old 
summer path, ascends the Val 
Surpalix by 10 sweeping zigzags, 
and, crossing the boundary of 
Uri, attains 

Summit of the Pass (6732 ft.). 6 m - 
On the opposite side the 

Oberalp See, J m. long, famed 
for its trout. It is beset with 
bogs. It is one of the head- 
feeders of the Reuss (6663 ft.). 
This spot was the scene of a hard 
struggle between the French and 
Austrians, in 1799. The road 
follows the N. side of the lake. 
The vale of Urseren, with Hos- 
pital in the distance ; is now seen, 
and a long descent, partly effected 
by a succession of zigzags, first 
through a valley of pastures, and 
then down a broken declivity, 
leads to 

Andermatt, 1 hr. 30 min. from 7 m. 
the Oberalp See, 2 hrs. from 
summit of pass (H. St. Gotthard), 
on the St. Gotthard road (Rte. 34). 



■ 

Rte. 83=— AMSTEG to DI- 
SENTIS, by the PASS of the 
KEEUZLI. 

AMSTEG to 
Sedrun (foot) . . 7^ hours. 
Disentis (char) . . 53- miles. 

This Pass is neither direct nor 
easy. It requires a guide. Anton 
Tresch, of Amsteg, is a good one. 
The path runs up the 



341 



tile. 8L—DISENTIS to AIROLO. 



342 



Maderaner Thai, on the 1. bank 
of the Kerstlenbach. 

lhr. Ezli Thai stream is crossed 
and followed up to the Krenzli. 
A considerable ascent is neces- 
sary to get into the Ezli Thai. 
The first bridge over its stream, 
above the fall, is not crossed, but 
the three following are. Soon 
after the 

lhr. Third Bridge the last trees 
are passed, and the path mounts 
along the W. flank of a naked 
desolate ravine. A small marshy 
basin succeeds the ravine, the 
valley here makes an abrupt bend 
from S. to W. ; but the path 
quits the valley. [Ascend it J hr. 
A grand scene of desolation is 
reached under the Crispalt gla- 
ciers.] Cross the stream (no 
bridge), and ascend due E. to the 
opening of a short high valley, at 
the top of which is the 

3hrs. Col (7710 ft.) marked by a 
pole. View. 

Descent is steep and rugged 
into the naked valley of ft trim. 

2Jhrs. Sedrun (or Tavetscli), on the 
Vorder-Ehine. Down the valley 
by post-road to 

2hrs. Bisentis (Ete. 82). 



Rte. 84. — bisextis to 

AIROLO, by the UOMO PASS. 

DISENTIS to 

Santa Maria . 5 hours. 
Airolo . . (?) Si hours. 

Bisentis (see Ete. 85) to 

Santa Maria (6043 ft.) A 5 hrs. 
narrow barren tributary of the 
Medelser Thai opens from the 
S. W. into the plain of Santa Maria, 
and leads to the Uomo pass. The 
path is on the rt. bank of its 
stream, and the 

Ascent is rapid and continuous. 

Summit (7160 ft.) is flat andlj hr. 

boggy. The path leads along 

the S. edge of the marsh, where 

there are 1 or 2 chalets. 
Beginning to descend : 
*View of the St. Gothard Alps 

above the lesser mountains. 

Bescent is at first rapid, down 
the pastures of Piora, which pro- 
duce good cheese; then a plain 
and lake, and then 

Lake of Eitom. The descent 
from the lake is abrupt and long, 
the river forming in quick suc- 
cession three very fine falls. Path 
on the rt. bank. After the third 
fall, the path leaves Val Piora for 



Val Leventina. The rest of 
the way is very interesting. Val 
Leventina and the St. Gothard road 
are left far beneath, and the path 
continues high on the slopes of 
the mountains, passing through 



Madrano (vill.). Here the open- 



343 



Bte. 85.- PASS of the LUKMANIER 



314 



ing of Val Canaria breaks the 
chain. The path descends, crosses 
the stream issuing from it, and 
falls into the St. Gothard road, 
a little below 

4(?)hrs. Airolo (Ete. 34). 



Rte. 85.— PASS of the LUK- 
MANIER— DISENTIS to OLI- 
VONE in VAL BLEGNO. 



DISENTIS to 

Hrs. 

Sta. Maria . . 5 



Hrs. 

Camperio . . 3% 
Olivone . . .1 



10 hrs. Horse-path, much frequented 
in summer ; steep at either end. 
It is long and not interesting ; but 
has importance from the possi- 
bility of a Railway being made 
along it, with a tunnel 15 m. 
through the Alps, entering at Per- 
datsch and emerging at Camps 
in Val Blegno. It is possible 
that a carriage-road may be made 
over it. This pass was used in 
the 7th and 8th centys., and in 
the middle ages. Charlemagne 
crossed over into Italy by it. 

From Disentis (Rte. 82) the 
path crosses the Rhine after 
passing St. Agatha's ch. 

fhr. Conflons gorge, the conflu- 
ence of the Vorder and Mittel 
Rhein, and leads alongside the 
latter, up the valley of Medels, 



S. of Disentis. Bears and cha- 
mois. The villages passed are 
Mompe-Medels, on 1. Curaglia. 

Platta (Inn at the Cure"s\ 2 J hrs 
45 2 7 ft. ; the principal place in 
the valley. 



St. 

Dodi, 



Hocco. Superb view of 1 hr. 



Perdatsch. Here the valley J hr. 
divides. The Lukmanier path - 
keeps rt. ; 1. opens out the savage 
Val Cristallina, famed for its 
rock-crystals. The scenery is 
wilder ; cascade (100 ft.) of the 
Mittel-Rhein. The little hospices 
of St. John and St. Gall, each with 
its warning bell, are passed. 

Sta. Maria is a hospice — onel hr. 
of 5 on this pass— kept up for the 
benefit of travellers, and, though 
wretched looking, it now affords 
tolerable accommodation. Here 
a stream descends from the W. 
out of the Lake Dim, at the end 
of Val Cadelina ; and another 
from the foot of Monte Scuro. 

Lukmanier Pass (in Latin, i hr. 
Mons Lucumonius ; in Rom'ansch, 
Lukmajn, or Culm Sta. Maria), 
6289 ft- Roles mark the path, 
and a cross the boundary between 
Grisons and C. Tessin. It is 
said that the army of Pepin 
passed this way, a.d. 754, on his 
invasion of Italy. [A horse -path 
rt. to Airolo, over the Uomo Pass 
(Rte. 84).] 

Descent of the Zura into Val 
Casaccia to 



Casaccia Hospice ; and 



1 hr. 



Camperio Hospice, both founded, 2 hrs. 
it is said, by St. Carlo Bor- 



345 



Bte. 87.— CO IRE 



to CHI A VENN A. 346 



be seen by daylight, and even be 
traversed on foot. 



romeo, for the reception of tra- 
vellers. The first glimpse of the 
spires and plain of Olivone, from 
the wooded steeps of the Luk- 
manier, is very striking, and the 
descent to it is beautiful. 

1 hr. Olivone (Germ. Polenzerthal) 
is a charming spot, and the 
highest village in Val Blegno. 
(The small Inn of Stefano Bolla 
is comfortable, though of no in- 
viting exterior, and rather high- 
priced.) 

[The valley is traversed by the 
Brenno, which enters from a cleft 
in the mtn. A tolerable char-road, 
traversed by a diligence daily, 
has been formed along the 1. 
bank of the stream, from Olivone 
to 14 m. Biasca (3 hrs.), on the 
route of the St. Gothard (Rte. 
34). All the valley on the W. 
is very beautiful. 

Many of the chocolate-sellers 
and chestnut-roasters, who swarm 
in the streets of the cities of Italy, 
come from the Val Blegno.] 



Rte. 87.— COIRE to CHIA- 
VENNA— the VIA MALA— 
PASS of the SPLUGEN. 

COIRE to m. m. 

Tusis . . .18 Campodolcino 24I 

Andeer . . 9 Chiavenna . 10 

Spliigen . . 11 

Dils. 3 daily, Coire to Spliigen, in 
7 hrs. (back 4$), and on to Chiavenna in 
6 hrs. (diligence to Bellinzona by the 
Bernardin, Rte. 91). 

The grand feature of this road 
is the Via Mala, which ought to 



From Coire, Rte. 67, the road 
runs nearly on a level to 

Reichenau ( Inn : zum Adler 6 m. 
(Aigle), good and moderate), at 
the junction of the white-grey 
Vorder-Rhein and the dark-blue 
Hinter-Rhein, both crossed by 
covered wooden bridges. 

lonis Philippe. — The Chateau, 
a seat of the Planta family, was 
converted into a school in the 
last centy. In 1793 a young man 
calling himself Chabot arrived 
here on foot, with a stick in 
his hand, a bundle on his back, 
and a letter to M. Jost, the 
master. He was appointed usher, 
and for 8 months gave lessons 
in French, mathematics, and his- 
tory. This forlorn stranger was . 
the Duke de Chart res, afterwards 
Louis Philippe, who had been 
forced, by the march of the 
French army, to seek conceal- 
ment here. His cheerful room is 
still pointed out, and 2 paintings 
— scenes from his own life, and 
portraits by Winterhalter — pre- 
sented while he was King. [To 
Ragatz by the Kunlcels Pass, Rte. 
66.] 

[Up the Vorder-Rhein to its 
source, and to Anclermatt, on the 
St. Gothard, Rte. 82.] 

The road to the Spliigen follows 
the Hinter-Rhein. On the top of 
a rock on the 1. bank is the still 
inhabited Castle of Rhotzuns 
(Rhcetia ima). 

This part of the Rheinthal, 
called the valley of Domleschg 
(Vallis Tomiliasca), is remarkable 
for the vast number of ruined 
castles which crown almost every 
rock or knoll, and contribute not 
a little to the landscape. Another 



347 Bte. 87.— SPLUGEN 



PASS—VIA MALA. 348 



peculiarity is the intermixture of 
language and religion. There are 
scarcely two adjoining hamlets 
speaking the same tongue and 
professing the same faith. 

The inhabited Castle of Orten- 
stein, 1., is one of the finest in the 
valley. 

Katzis. Vill. hid in orchards. 
View up valley of Oberhalbstein. 

Hereabouts are dismal traces of 
the ravages of the torrent Notta, 
rt. At all times it pollutes the 
Rhine, and after rains frequently 
blocks up its bed with heaps of 
mud and gravel. Extensive dikes 
have been constructed to restrain 
it. 

12 m. Thusis (Inns: H. de la Via 
Mala, very good ; Aigle d'Or, 
Poste, good) is a street of houses, 
rebuilt after a fire (the 4th in its 
history) fGyo Inhab.), on a terrace 
at the mouth of the Via Mala 
Gorge. 

Pass a large Inn, Zur Rhein- 
correction; and 1. the cantonal 
Prison and Penitentiary. 

[Opposite Thusis the Albula 
enters the Rhine, through the 
*Scliyn Pass, a remarkable defile. 
A carriage-road from Thusis to 
Tiefenkastein (Rte. 90), on the 
rt. bank of the Albula, will lead 
to the "passes of the Albula and 
Julier. It is well worth while to 
walk to the bridge over the Ehine 
(10 min.) for the sake of the view, 
even if you proceed no farther. 

Immediately beyond Thusis the 
filthy stream of the Nolla, running 
through a waste of mud and 
stones, is crossed by a handsome 
bridge. Rt., view of the peak of 
Piz Beverin. 

The valley of the Rhine seems 
now closed by mtns. ; on a nearer 
approach the singular chasm is 



discovered which affords passage 
for the river and the road. The 
1. of this portal, in the fork be- 
tween the Albula and the Rhine, 
is guarded by the Castle of Realt 
(Rkaatia Alta). It is ascribed to 
Rhaatus, chief of the Etruscans, 
driven out of Italy by the Gauls, 
B.C. 287. A tolerable pedestrian 
starting 10 min. before a carriage, 
may keep a-head of it through 
the Via Mala, the ascent being 
steep most of the way. 

Via Mala commences. It is| m. 
a tremendous defile, 3 m. in 
length. The precipices are in 
some places 1600 ft. high, and 
not more than 10 yards apart. 
The Rhine, compressed to the 
width of a rivulet, is barely 
audible in the depths below the 
road. 

Verlohrenes Loch (Lost Gulf). 1 m. 

The slate and limestone walls of 
the ravine are so fresh and sharp 
in their fracture, that it seems as 
though the two sides could close 
and leave no aperture between. 

This vertical chasm was path- 
less and inaccessible in ancient 
times. The peasants gave the 
place the name of Verlohrenes 
Loch ; and, when they wanted to go 
from Thusis to Schams, they made 
a wide circuit. A road, in 1470, 
crossed- the mtns. as before, but 
dipped down from Rongella into 
the depths of the Via Mala, near 
the first bridge, still avoiding the 
"Lost gulf." This inconvenient 
path was superseded by the en- 
gineer, Pocobelli. He pierced the 
projecting buttress by the tunnel, 
216 ft. long, through which the 
road now passes. View, looking 
back. For more tlvan 1000 ft. the 
rd. is carried in a quarried groove. 
A little higher up, the gorge 



349 



Bte. 87.— VIA MALA. — SPL ZfGEN PASS. 



350 



bulges out into a sort of basin, 
in the midst of which stands a 
solitary house; but it soon con- 
tracts again, and the scenery of 
the pass is at its height beyond 
the 

1 m. First bridge of the 3 by which 
the road is conveyed from side to 
side of the Rhine. 

Middle Bridge, just beyond, is 
graceful and bold. It is ap- 
proached by a small gallery, roofed 
against falling stones. Hereabouts 
the precipices on one side over- 
hang those on the other, the direc- 
tion of the chasm being oblique. 
Looking over the parapet of this 
bridge, the Rhine is barely visible. 
Indeed, in one place, it is entirely 
lost to view — jammed in, as it 
were, between the rocks, here so 
slightly separated, that trunks of 
fir-trees falling from above are 
caught in the chink, and remain 
suspended. The bridge is or- 
dinarily 400 ft. above the river ; 
yet, in the fearful inundation of 
1834, the water rose to within a 
few feet of it. 

Proceeding on, the road is again 
grooved in t lie rock, and the width 
of the defile is, in places, not more 
than 24 ft. Near the 

lm. Upper Bridge it widens out, 
and the road emerges into the 
open valley of the Schams (Sex- 
amniensis, from its 6 brooks), 
whose meadows and white cot- 
tages contrast pleasingly with the 
gloomy 'scene behind. The first 
village is 

2 m. Zillis. Its ch. is the oldest in 
the valley. 

[In descending the pass, travel- 
lers by voiturier should walk from 
the upper bridge to Thusis. It is 



barely 4 m., and the voiturier will 
stay 2 Lrs. at Tusis.] 

Andeer {Inn : Hotel Fravi ; 2 2 
Mineral baths in the house) — 
580 Inhab., Protestant and Ro- 
mans ch. Over the doors of the 
cottages are quaint Romansch 
mottoes. 

The ruined castles in the valley 
were in the 14th centy. residences 
of bailiffs of the Counts of Vatz 
or of the Bishop of Coire, petty 
tyrants. 

Andeer to the Engadine, by Forcellina 
Pass, see Rte. 83. 

Ascent of the Piz Beverin, 
9234 ft. Fine View, and not 
difficult ; 7 or 8 hrs. 

Quitting Andeer, our road 
ascends in zigzags, passing the 
ruins of Barenburg; enters the 
Gorge of the Bofla — confluence of 
the Rhine with the Averserbach, 
a considerable cataract. To view 
it ascend the gorge on the 1. to a 
spot 5 min. walk from the road. 
[Up this valley, 

Yal Ferrera, runs a pass to 2 
Casaccia and the Engadine, Rte. 
88.] The road zigzags up the 
gorge of the Bofla, which is fine, 
though inferior to the Via Mala. 

Fall of the Bofta. The scenery 
around is thickly wooded, and 
the river studded by saw-mills. 
A timber-slide, like that of Alp- 
nach (Rte. 19) conveys the trees to 
the Rhine. 

The upper stage of the valley 
of the Rhine, the Bheinwald, is 
reached, an open, partly-wooded 
basin ; Alpine vegetation. Above 
rise the snowy peaks of the Ems- 
horn, Piz Uccllo, and Tambo- 
horn. 

Splugen (Ital. Spluga), 4711 ft. 2 J 



351 



Ete. 87. —COIBE 



to CBIAVENNA. 



352 



( Inn : Post, or Bodehhaus, a stone- 
vaulted house, dear, and uncivil 
people. Dil. stops here for 
dinner.) This little village is at 
the junction of the Spliigen and 
Bernardin passes. In autumn it is 
thronged with drovers ; quantities 
of cattle and horses then cross the 
Alps for the Milan market. 

[To Coire, over the Lochliberg 
and down the Savien Thai, Ete. 
90.] 

Excursion to the source of the 
Hinterrhein, Ete. 91. 



Pass of the Spliigen commences 
here. It was known to the 
Eomans ; but was formerly one of 
the most difficult of the frequented 
Alpine passes. The modern road 
was made by Austria, in 1823, to 
compete with the Swiss road over 
the Bernardin. It turns 1. from 
the village, crosses the Ehine by 
a covered wooden bridge, and, 
quitting the river, begins to ascend 
the valley of the Oberhausli-bach 
by 7 zigzags. A little way above 
Spliigen it passes a short tunnel. 
After surmounting the fir-forests, 
Views of snow-peaks, 16 zigzags 
lead to 

2 hrs. Summit of the Pass, 6940 ft. 

Descent is almost immediate. 
A cantoniera, or house of refuge, 
is passed, and, lower down, after 
a series of tourniquets, the 

Italian Custom-house and Pass- 
port-office, a melancholy group of 
buildings, including several very 
common taverns. Here pass- 
ports are examined and luggage 
searched. In winter the snow 
reaches to the first story of the 
houses. 

The division of the French army 



of Marshal Macdonald, under 
Gen. Brune, which crossed the 
Spliigen between the 27th Nov. 
and 4th Dec. 1800, long before 
the new road was begun, in the 
face of snow and storm, and other 
serious obstacles, lost nearly 100 
men, and as many horses, chiefly 
in the passage of the Cardinel 
defile, down which the old road 
lay. His columns were cut 
through by falling avalanches. 

Teggiate, hamlet. Near hereljhr'^ 
the descent recommences, and 

Galleries, 3 great ones, the 
longest on any Alpine high-road, 
are passed. They are necessary to 
protect the road from avalanches. 

From the entrance of the second 
gallery, * View down upon the roofs 
of the houses of Isola, and of the 
zigzags of the old road, abandoned 
since 1838, as far as Chiavenna. 

Pianazzo, 471 1 ft., the same J hr. , 
height as Spliigen vill. The road 
then crosses the little stream of the 

Madessimo, within a few yards 
of the precipice, over which it 
throws itself in a beautiful 

Waterfall, 800 ft. high. View 
looking down the fall from a ter- 
race near the bridge; view also 
from the lower zigzags of the road. 
[To Canicul in the Val Ferrera, 
up the Madessimo.] The road 
traverses more galleries, and de- 
scends by numerous zigzags down 
the face of slopes nearly approach- 
ing to a precipice. This piece 
of engineering deserves exami- 
nation. 

Campo Dolcino, which, in 1 J hi 
spite of its sweet-sounding Italian 
name, is but a poor village, with a 



353 Bte. 87. — SPL VGEN PASS — CHI A VENN A . 354 



tolerable Inn (Post, civil people), 
on a small grassy plain, on the 
borders of the Lira. 

The valley of the Lira is filled 
with red masses of fallen rock. 
The road is carried through a 
labyrinth of detached blocks ; 
and accordingly the turnings are 
very sharp, and the terraces short. 
Chestnut - trees, of large size, 
sprout from among the rocks, 
and mask their barrenness. 

ljhr. Madonna di Gallivaggio. The 

tall white Italian campanile of 
its ch. amid foliage, contrasts 
agreeably with the precipices 
around. 

fhr. St. GiacomD vill. whence the 
valley is named. Bold bridge 
across the Lira. 

Farther on, Chiavenna expands 
to view, surrounded by hills 
clothed with the richest vegeta- 
tion. 

§ hr. Chiavenna (Germ. Clefen, Ola- 
vena of the ancients). {Inns : 
Conradi's ; *Chiave d'Oro, very 
good, cheaper, clean.) 3040 In- 
hab. Charmingly sit. in the midst 
of vineyards, close under the mts. 

Ch. of St. Lawrence has a cam- 
panile within a square enclosure, 
surrounded by a cloister. On one 
side are two bone-houses, filled 
with skulls, arranged in patterns, 
and, adjoining them, in the octa- 
gonal Baptistery, is an ancient 
stone font. The citizens keep 
their Valteline wine in cool na- 
tural grottoes at the foot of the 
mountains, called Ventorali. 

Opposite Conradi's inn, at the 
foot of a rock, is a large ruined 
Palazzo which once belonged to 
the Salis family : view from the 
summit of the rock. 

There are spinning-mills for 

K]p> Switz. 



silk and cotton. A manufacturer, 
Vanossi, at one time wove here a 
fireproof cloth of asbestos, which 
abounds in the neighbourhood. 

History. — Chiavenna belonged 
to the Dukes of Milan till the 
1 6th cent., when the Swiss became 
possessed of it. It then, with the 
Valteline and Bormio, was sub- 
ject to the Grisons. Napoleon 
added it to the kingdom of 
Italy, as lying S. of the Alps; 
and the Congress of Vienna, by 
the same rule, transferred it to 
Austria. 

At Chiavenna, as in the Va- 
laisan towns, are large houses, the 
former residences of noble fami- 
lies, now inhabited by poor people. 

[The Fall of the Gardona, 1 hr. 
walk. Leaving the town, on the 
Eiva road, the river on the rt. is 
crossed in J hr. Another J hr. 
leads thence to the Fall.] 

Diligences through Chiavenna to Coire 
in I3i hrs. passing at a very early or late 
hour. Voiturier to Coire 100 frs., sleeping 
the first night at Andeer, and arriving in 
the afternoon of the 2nd day at Ragatz. A 
bargain should be made that he should 
change horses at Campo Dolcino, and so 
travel at a better pace and avoid waiting 
2 hrs. at that dull spot. 

From Chiavenna to Lecco (Rte. 
116). 



355 Bte. SS.—ANDEER to CAS AC CIA. 



356 



Rte. 88.— ANDEER to CA- 
SACCIA, by the AVEES THAI, 
rOUC ELLIN A and SEPTIMEB, 
PASSES. 

ANDEER to Hrs. 

Cresta (foot) 6| 

Casaccia „ 5i 

This route leads from Coire 
to the Engadine, through the Via 
Mala. 1 1 hrs. steady walking from 
Andeer. Take provisions. 

Coire, by Spliigen high-road 
(see Ktes. 67 and 87), to 

Audeer (Ete. 87). About 2 m. 
above this, near the zigzags on 
* the Spliigen road (bey den Keh- 
ren), the narrow and gloomy 
gorge of the Rofla opens a way 
into the valley, out of which the 

1 hr. Avers XLhein falls in 1. The 
Avers Thai, or Yal Aversa, in 
its lower part is called Vol Fer- 
rera. This rte. leads up it. 

J hr .Waterfall, then through wooded 
denies to 

2 hrs. Canicul (Germ. Hundeloch — 
dog-hole) (no Inn), the chief vil- 
lage of the valley. 

3 hrs. Cresta (no Inn), 6394 ft.* at 
the limit of fir-trees. 

Both here and at Canicul the 
clergymen receive hospitably the 
few strangers who pass. Of course, 
on leaving, a present should be 
made to the clergyman's wife or 
housekeeper. 

Above this, a wide expanse of 
Alpine pastures. 



Chalets of Juf are passed. [To If hr. 
Bivio, 1., on the Julier (Rte. 
92), 5 hrs.] 

The further ascent is easy, and 
to the N. of E. No landmarks 
or track. 

Summit of Forcellina, 8760 ft. 2 hrs, 
View over a wilderness of peaks, 
limited in part by nearer ranges. 

Descent, E., lies over a slope of 
snow, and then over rocks, until 
the horse-track over the 

Septimer Pass is reached, close 
to the 

Summit (7582 ft.), where once 
stood a small hospice, now in 
ruins. 

[The Septimer, an indififerent 
and neglected horse-path, but 
well traced, leads from Bivio 
to Casaccia, 4 or 4J hrs. walk.] 
The S. side is the steepest. 
View from the summit is fine ; 
Piz Muretto and Monte del 
Oro being conspicuous features. 
Though impracticable for chars, 
this was a frequented high- 
way between Italy and Switzer- 
land until the formation of the 
carriage-road over the Spliigen, 
which, being a lower pass, and 
10 m. shorter, superseded it. The 

Monte Lunghixio (9120 ft.), be- 
tween the passes of Septimer, 
Julier, and Maloja, distributes its 
rills between the Adriatic, the 
North Sea, and the Black Sea. 

0 

Descent steep and stony. 

Casaccia (Rte. 94) (Gioan- 2 hrs 
nini's Inn very fair; Post, 
Stampas). 



357 tite. 89.— SPLUGEN to ILANZ— VAL8EBB EE G. 358 



through pine forests above a 
deep gorge. Zavreila is sur- 
rounded by snowy peaks and 
glaciers. There are several passes 
over which a practised moun- 
taineer may make his way.] 

Below Platz the road enters a 
grand gorge, then the valley opens 
into a basin at the 

Feistenberg and Montasg Cha- 
lets. Then by a second gorge to 



Rte. 89. — SPLUGEN to 
ILANZ, by the PASS of the 
VALSERBERGr. 13 hrs. 

SPLUGEN to Hrs. 

Niifenen ...... ii 

Summit i\ 

Vals (St. Peter) (foot) . . li 

Baths of Peiden „ . . 3 

Ilanz (horse — ? char) . . 2 J 

Spliigen (Ete. 8 7). 

ljhr. Niifenen, thence, just beyond, 
the path turns rt, and reaches the 
base of the cliffs, up which it as- 
cends W. 

Junction with the path from 
Hinterrhein. View. 

3| hi\ Summit (about 7500 ft.), a nar- 
row gap, covered with snow. View 
to the north is wild. Several bare 
ranges are seen, and above them 
the whole line of the Alps of 
Glarus, from the Todi to the 
Scheibe, an unbroken bank of 
snow from end to end. 

Descent. The way is marked 
by poles. 

lhr. Chalets are reached, and a 
stream from the rt. crossed. 

ljhi*. Vals, or St. Peter's Platz 

(4094 ft.) (small Inn), in St. 
Peter's Thai. German spoken 
here. Komansch is the language 
lower dowm 

[The scenery of the Si Peter's 
Thai above Yals is said to be of 
the grandest character. The last 
village, Zavreila (5 840 ft.), is 3 hrs. 
above Vals. The path passes 



Oratory, where the valley 2 1 hrs. 
enlarges, and opens to the N. 
Into its fields the path now de- 
scends. The river is crossed by 
a bridge just above the 

Baths of Peiden (good accom- 1\ hr. 
modation at the Bad-haus (50 
beds), belonging to the medical 
man of the place). It looks a 
promising centre for excursions, 
and lies in a sheltered sunny nook, 
in a neighbourhood rich in little- 
known peaks and glaciers. A 
char- road in progress (1862) to 
Ilanz. A rather long ascent then 
leads to 

Kumbels, where, perhaps, is the 1 hr. 
best of all the views of this sin- 
gularly picturesque valley. 

The path from Kumbels con- 
tinues long on the heights. When 
it leaves them, it descends into 
the valley of the Rhine, at a little 
distance from 

Ilanz {see Rtes. 82, 86). 1J hr. 



n 2 



359 Rte. UQ.—SCHYN PASS. 



91.— The BERNABDIN. 360 



Rte. 91.— PASS of the BER- 
KAHDIN — SPLTJGEN to BEL- 
LINZONA. Post road, 47 m. 

SPLUGEISr to Eng. m. 

Eng. m. Misocco . . 9 

. Hinterrhein 8 Cama ... 9! 

S. Bernardino 1 ok Bellinzona . 9$ 

The road from Coire over the Bernardin 
is the same as that over the Spliigen as far 
as Spliigen vill. (Rte. 87). Diligence from 
Coire to Bellinzona. 17 hrs. ; Spliigen to 
Bellinzona, 10 hrs. Voiturier from Bagatz 
in 2i days, 160 fr. The Inns on this road 
are better than on the other pass ; that 
at St. Bernardino is excellent. 

History. — This pass is said to 
have been known to the Eomans : 
it was called the Yogelberg down 
to the. 1 5th centy., wiien St. Ber- 
nardin of Sienna preached the 
Gospel through these valleys. A 
chapel dedicated to him, on the S. 
of the mountain, gave rise to its 
name. It was traversed, in March, 
r 799, by the French army of 
Lecourbe. 

The road was constructed, 1822, 
by the engineer Pocobelli, at the 
joint expense of the Sardinian and 
Grison governments. About 6-7TI1S 
was paid by the King of Sardinia, 
who appreciated the advantages of 
a direct line from Genoa and Turin 
to Switzerland and W. Germany. 



Rte. 90— THUSIS to TIE- 
FENKASTEN and the AL- 
BTJLA PASS — the SCHYN 
PASS. 

Carriage-road to Tiefenkasten in pro- 
gress from Thusis (Rte. 87). 

[There is a pleasant foot-path 
from Sils, by Campi, up the 1. 
bank of the Albula, to Unter- 
matten and Solisbriicke, about 5 
hrs. walk. 

10 min. E. of Thusis a wooden 
bridge over the Khine, command- 
ing fine view, leads to Sils. 
rt. rises Schloss Baldenstein. 
Thence by a new bridge over the 
Albula to Scharans (fair Inn). 
Old lime-tree with wooden statue 
in it of Rhsetus. The Albula 
enters the Khine through a very 
narrow gorge, unapproached by 
any path. The new road, through 
the Schyn Pass, is carried up the 
rt. bank of the river. On one side 
of it, rt., rise the picturesque 
ruins of the castle Campi. 

The road ascends 1600 ft. above 
the Albula. 

Obervatz. 

The road passes near the stone 
pillars of the Gallows of the juris- 
diction of Vatz, raised on a spot 
commanding exquisite views. 

Alvaschein. A detour of -J an 
hr. leads to the remarkable Solis- 
Itriicke, a bridge spanning the 
gorge of the Albula, 1460 ft. 
above the stream. 

1 hr, Tiefenkasten. Here the road 
joins that from Coire to the Julier 
Pass (Rte. 92). 



Spliigen (Rte. 87). The road, 
instead of crossing the Rhine by 
the bridge on the 1. leading to 
Spliigen Pass, ascends by the 1. 
bank of the Hinter-Rhein, through 
Niifenen, to 

Hinterrhein (5328 ft.) (Inn:$m. 
Post), the highest village in the 
valley ; no grain but barley 
grows. 



361 



Rte. 91.— PASS of 



the BERNARDIN. 



362 



£To Source of the Rhine 6 or 7 
hrs. going and returning, exclu- 
sive of stoppages ; or even J, of 
the distance on horseback ; the 
latter part of the walk is over 
delxris and melting snow. The 
river rises from beneath the Rhein- 
wald glacier, filling a depression 
between the Rheinwaldhorn 
(11,148 ft.) and the Zaporthorn."} 

The road over the Bernarclin 
quits the Rhine at Hinterrhein, 
crossing it by a stone bridge, after 
which it breasts the mountain by 
16 zigzags. 

View rt., over the head of the 
Rhine valley. Rt. the Moschel- 
horn ; 1. the peak of the Mittag- 
horn. 

7 m. Summit (6768 ft.). Here is a 
lake called Lago Moesola, the 
source of the Moesa. (Inn: sub- 
stantial, but homely.) This pass 
is grander and less dreary than 
the other carriage passes. 

Descent. — The Moesa is crossed 
by a handsome bridge, named 
after Victor Emanuel, King of 
Sardinia, who contributed largely 
to this road. The carriage- 
way is roofed for some distance to 
protect it from avalanches. The 
S. face of the mt. is far more 
abrupt than the N. ; but the road 
is so skilfully made that a postilion, 
accustomed to it, trots the whole 
way down, turning sharp round 
the corners of the zigzags. 

From Hinterrhein to St. Bernardino 
takes 3i hrs. 

7 m. St. Bernardino (Inns : H. 
Brocco, large and good ; H. Ra- 
vizzo ; H. Motto), a village and 
watering-place, halfway down, 
on a small plain. Here is a 
chalybeate spring, 40 0 F., with 
baths. Excellent head-quarters 
for a mountaineer. 



The road now ascends for 2 m., 
and then plunges by a series of 
complicated zigzags into the lower 
valley of Misocco (Germ. Masox 
or Misox Thai ; Ital. Val Mesol- 
cina). The Moesa makes 2 falls, 
one near 

St. Cfiacomo (quarries of gyp- 
sum). 

Misocco or Cremao ( Inn : Post, 12 m. 
dirty, wretched), 900 Inhab. ; 
situation charming. Views from 
ch.-yard and old castle. 

The chestnut and walnut, the 
maize, the vine, and the mulberry 
hereabouts succeed each other, 
and remind the traveller that he 
is indeed in Italy ; he also - notes 
the altered language, the laziness 
and filth of the inhabitants, and 
their miserable houses. Below it, 
in the middle of the valley, is the 
ruined 

Castle of Misocco, a feudal seat 
of the lords of Masox, sold by 
them, 1482, to the Milanese gene- 
ral Trivulzio, taken and destroyed 
by the Graubiindtners, 1526. The 
valley is bounded by precipices, 
over whose sides are a niunber of 
waterfalls, of the shape of that 
which in Scotland is called the 
Mare's Tail. The valley of Mi- 
socco is famed for its beauty. 

Soazza (1939 on ty a little 
higher than Coire (1843 ft.). 

Below here is, rt., the Cascade 
of Bujfalora. 

Lostallo (Inn : tolerable). The 
legislative assemblies of the men 
of the valley are held here. 

Cama. Post-station. Figs and 14 m. 
mulberries. 

Grono. Val Calanca opens out 
from the W t 



Bte. 92.— JULIER PASS. 364 



363 



Boveredo (Inns: Croce Bianca, 
tolerable; Canone d'Oro). The 
Prior and n old women were 
burnt for witchcraft by Carlo 
Borromeo, in 1583. Near it the 
ruined castle of Trivulzio. 

St. Vittore is the last Grison 
village : below it we enter Canton 
Tessin, and our road joins the St. 
Gothard (Ete. 34). 

11 m. Bellinzona (728 ft.) (Ete. 34). 

If time, push on to Locarno (Ete. 113), 
which is more beautiful and convenient 
for the steamers, and the hotel equally 
good. By taking the earliest steamer, 
Turin or Genoa may be reached about 

2 P.M. 



Ete. 92.-JULIEK PASS, from 
COIRE to SAMABEN. Post 
road, 

COIRE to Eng. m. 

Eng. m. Silva Plana . 27 
Tiefenkasten 18 Samaden . . 8 

Diligence in 12 hrs., well appointed; 
carriage with pair of horses 1 20 i'r. The 
Julier is a safe road, early free from 
snow, and picturesque. Ascent nearly 
all the way to the summit of the pass. 

Coire. — On leaving the town, 
ascent S. by zigzags following 
the Eabiosa. 1. is tiie opening of 
the Schanfigg Thai (Ete. 99). 
Pass, rt, the ruined castle Stras- 
berg. , 



Churwalden {Inns : Kreuz ; 7 m. 
Post). Then through Parpan, an 
upland village, in which is the 
paternal mansion of the Buol 
family. [Ascent of the Statzer- 
horn in 3 hrs. ; practicable for 
ladies.] Over a barren heath to 

Lenz ( Inn : Krone ; a toler- 7 j m. 
able dining-place). Beyond Lenz, 
the Eomansch tongue (Ete. 66) is 
almost exclusively spoken; Ger- 
man is rarely understood, except 
in the inns. 

The river Albula, just about to 
enter the Schyn defile (Etes. 87 
and 90), is crossed to reach 

Tiefenkasten (Eom. Caste), 2 3 J m. 
m. saved by a short cut. {Inns : 
Albula, clean, and good; Post.) 
A vill. in a deep hollow, as its 
name implies, at the entrance of 
the Oberhalbstein valley, up 
which our route is carried. 

[The road to the Albula Pass 
(Ete. 93), 1., here diverges from 
the Julier. (There is a short cut 
to it from Lenz.) Diligence in 
summer to Bergiin. Eoad to 
Thusis and the Via Mala (Ete. 
90).] Steep ascent up the 

Oberhalbstein gorge, some- 2 m. 
what resembling the Via Mala. 

Tinzen, the valley is bleak. An 5 m. 
ascent through more picturesque 
scenery leads to 

Molins (Miihlen) ( Inn, Post, 5 m. 
fair), in a little amphitheatre, at 
the finest part of the Oberhalb- 
stein. 

Bivio or Stalla, 5630 ft. — 5J m. 
( Inn : Lanz's, Post) — at the foot 
of the Pitz d'Emet. This poor 
vill. of 200 Protest. Inhab. lies 
at the branching of the Julier 



365 



Bte. 92.—JULIEB PASS. 



366 



and Septimer passes. (Bivium.) 
No trees grow ; dung is burnt for 
fuel. Easy ascent to the moun- 
tain Inn, Vedutta. 

6m. Summit of Julier Pass, 7503 ft. 
Its scenery is not grand, but it 
is an easy ascent, and very free 
from avalanches. On the top are 
2 rude granite pillars, called 
Julius's Columns, 4 ft. high, with 
no inscription. There is no au- 
thority in the tradition which 
connects them with Julius Caesar, 
though they may be of Eoman 
origin. Augustus carried a high- 
way from Chiavenna over the 
passes of the Maloja and Julier. 
Flocks of Bergamasque sheep and 
their wild shepherds are often 
seen on the higher pastures. 

Descent (easy) into the Enga- 
dine by zigzags, in full view of 
the icy peaks of the Bernina 
chain, to the village of 

4Jm. Silva Plana, 5925 ft. {Inn: 
Kreuz (Post), clean) ; between 2 
small and strangely green lakes, 
feeders and reservoirs of the river 
Inn, at the junction of the passes 
of the Julier and Maloja. 

[To Pontresina, by St. Moritz 
and Celerina, 7 m., over the 
Fuorcla, by Surlei, 5 hrs. (Rte. 
96).] 

4 m. St. Moritz (Rom. San Murez- 
zan), 6090 ft. (Inns : Engadiner 
Kulm, tolerable; Kreuz; Pen- 
sion Bavier. A large Kurhaus 
and Pump-room — a well-built 
house; will hold 300 persons, 
but manager negligent — is esta- 
blished near to the principal mi- 
neral spring, 20 min. walk from 
the vill.) 

The food is so insufficient, and the 
cookery so bad, as often to counter- 



act the good effect which the air and 
water might produce on invalids. For 
this there is no excuse; provisions are 
abundant, and better dinners may be had 
at the neighbouring Inns of Samaden 
or Pontresina. The shareholders must 
be made to understand tbat they will 
drive away all English invalids unless 
they are less niggardly in providing the 
necessaries of life. 

Carriages. — 1 horse, 15 fr. per diem ; 
2 horses, 30 fr. per diem. 

This little vill. is rapidly rising 
into repute as a watering-place, less 
from any beauty of situation — for 
it is bleak, open, and almost tree- 
less — than for the exceeding purity 
of its atmosphere, at a height of 
6100 ft. above the sea-level. Its 
powerful but pleasant and spark- 
ling chalybeate waters, first de- 
scribed, 1539, by Paracelsus, are 
efficacious in cases of scrofula, 
stomach complaints, &c. Its situa- 
tion on the slopes of a hill is rather 
bleak and bare, but it overlooks 
the Inn, and several beautiful 
green lakes formed by that river. 
Capital trout. Season, middle of 
June to middle of Sept. 2 resi- 
dent physicians. 

^Excursions. — a. Up the valley 
to the Lugni See, the source of 
the Inn (Rte. 94). b. Piz Nair, 
10,040 ft., to the W., 3 hrs. ascent 
with donkeys or horses. *View 
of the Bernina mtns., equal to that 
from Piz Languard (Rte. 96). c. 
Up the S. Suvretta valley, over 
the Col, past the lake, 8590 ft. 
down the N. Suvretta valley to 
Bevers. Thus far, 7 hrs. Back by 
carr.-roacl to St. Moritz. d. Piz Ot 
(see below), e. Pontresina (Rte. 
96), or over the Fuorcla by 
Surlei.] 

Just below St. Moritz, the Inn 
makes a pretty fall. The valley 
now opens out in a straight line 
as far as Zernetz. The first vil- 
lages passed are Cresta, Celerina 
(Rom. Schlarigna), and then 



367 



Bte. 93.— ALBULA PASS. 



368 



m. Samaden (Bora. Samedan). 
{Inns: Bernina, a large house, 
well kept by Mad. Fanconi, and 
very convenient for tourists and 
comfortable; Krone), chief village 
of Upper Engadine, 522 Inhab. ; 
in full view of the Bernina chain, 
5608 ft. above the sea. In St. 
Peter s Ch. tombstones of the 
families Planta, Salis, &c. Sama- 
den lies within a short distance 
of the finest scenery of the Ber- 
nina district. [Ascent of Piz Ot, 
10,690 ft., to theN.N.E. in 3 J hrs. 
Take guide and provisions. It is 
steeper than the Piz Languard ; 
view fine, includes the Disgrazia 
Mtn. The range of the Bernina 
seems so different from these 2 
points that both ascents are ad- 
visable. Horses might perhaps 
be taken halfway.] 

From Samaden is 4 J m. to 
Pontresina (Rte. 96), on the road 
to the Bernina (Ete. 96). [Short 
cut to this road from Celerina,] 



Hte. 93.— ALBULA PASS from 
COIRE to SAMADEN. 



COIRE to 




Eng. m. 


Lenz 






Filisur 






Weissenstein • 






Ponte 




■ 1 


Samaden 







More interesting than the Ju- 
lier. hrs. moderate walking 

from Lenz to Samaden. 



From Coire, as far as 

Lenz, it is identical with Rte. 15 m, 
92. 



At Lenz the road to the Albula 
turns round the shoulder of the 
mountain to the E., leaving Tie- 
fenkasten on the rt. ; and passing 
the village of (1 hr.) Brienz, and 
on the 1. the castle of Belfort, 
perched on a rock, reaches 
A Iveneu. 

Baths of Alveneu (1 J m. below 6 J m. 
the village), on the rt. bank of 
the Albula (Inn, fair). Sulphur 
springs. Crossing the mouth of 
the Davos Thai L, and the stream 
running out of it, we ascend by 
the Albula to 

Filisur, a white and pictur-2} m. 
esque village, like those of the 
Engadine (2 Inns, each kept by 
a Schmidt). Near it the ruins of 
Schloss Greifenstein. The inha- 
bitants of this and the adjoining 
valley emigrate as pastrycooks. 

Bellaluna ; abandoned iron- 2 m. 
works. 

Berguner-Stein, a narrow ra- 2 m. 
vine, like, though far inferior to, 
the Via Mala. Its outlet is par- 
ticularly fine. For 1000 ft. the 
road, made by the Canton, 1857, 
is hewn out of the face of the 
rock, 500 or 600 ft. above the 
Albula. 

Bergiin (Rom. Bravuogn), a Ro- 1 m. 
mansch vill. of muleteers or cart- 
ers, beautifully sit. Accommo- 
dation at the house of the Land- 



Diligence daily, in 41 hrs. from Coire to 
Tiefenkasten ; thence a 2-horse coach by 
Bergiin ; but places in it must be secured 
by telegraph from Coire. A carriage-rd. 
is completed over the Pass, 1866. 



369 Bte. 94.— CHI A VENN A to SAMADEN. 370 



ammann Cloetta. Konianesque 
Church, date in8. 

6 m. Weissenstein. — Ascent steep 
(a small Inn, 4 or 5 beds). The 
lake by its side burst its bounds 
1859, drained itself dry, and has 
become a peat-bog. The new 
post-road is carried up in a 
gradual curve under the Piz 
Gimmels, between 1. the Piz Al- 
bula and rt. the Cresta Mora to 

ljm. Summit (7589 ft.) of the Pass 
of the Albula, marked by a cross, 
near a small lake. N. rise the 
two peaks of the Albula or Crap 
Alv (White Kock) ; S.E. Piz Err. 

Descent into the Ober Enga- 
dine by 7 zigzags to 

Albula. 

6m. Ponte or Punt (Inns: Cou- 
ronne, not very bad). Just at 
the foot of the pass, and in one of 
the most populous parts of the 
Engadine — Germ, zur BrUcke, so 
named from the bridge over the 
Inn, connecting it with Cama- 
gask. 

Ascend the valley of the Inn, 

5 m. to Samaden (Inn ; Bernina, 
good), or 

8Jm. to St, Moritz (lite. 94). 



Ete. 94. — CHIAVENNA to 
SAMADEN, by the VAL BRE- 
GAGrLIA and the PASS of the 
MALOJA, or MALOGGIA. 

CHI A VENN A to Eng. m. 

Casaccia (dil.) 17 

Samaden „ 19 

Dil. daily in 10 hrs. Post-road, ascends 
5000 ft. to summit of the Pass. 

From Chiavenna the road as- 
cends rt. of the Maira, in face 
of a pretty cascade of the Acqua 
Fraggia. 

Pleurs or Piuro, on the oppo- 31 m . 

site side of the river, is the grave 
of a thriving village, buried, with 
its 2430 Inhab., by the fall of 
Monte Conto, on the night of the 
4th Sept. 1 6 18. It now lies be- 
neath a heap of rocks and rub- 
bish, 60 feet deep, which fills up 
the valley. Every soul within it 
perished. The spot is now grown 
over with a wood of chestnuts. 
Ten years previous, large crevices 
formed on that side of the moun- 
tain. 

Val Bregaglia (Germ. Bergell) 
is fertile and picturesque. Many 
of its inhabitants emigrate as 
chimney-sweepers. After Santa 
Oroce, and Yilla (Pontella), the 
road reaches the 

Swiss frontier at 

Castasegna ( Inn : Post). Here 3 m. 
the white mulberry and the 
silk cultivation cease. Castle of 
Bondo, rt., belongs to a branch of 
the Salis (Soglio) family, settled in 



371 Bte. 94.— MALOJA PASS. 



England. Donjon, 100 ft. high, 
of the ruined Castle of Castelmur 
1. of the Maira, is conspicuous : 
its walls, 15 ft. high and 10 thick, 
descend to the river-side. The 
valley was formerly closed here by 
a gate, and the key was in the 
castle. See Church erected 1855. 
For the history of these Moorish 
names, see Ete. 122. 

6m. Vico Soprano (Yespran), 3566 
ft. (Inn: Krone.) Pop. 337. 

[To the Baths of San Martino 
and Morbegno in ■ the Valteline, 
by the Zocca pass, 10 hrs., not 
often traversed. Guide indispen- 
sable.] 

5 m. Casaccia ( Inns fair for the lo- 
cality : the best is Bartolorneo 
Gioannini's ; Agostino Zuan's, 
tolerable), a hamlet of 80 per- 
manent Inhab. 

[The Septimer and the Forcel- 
lina passes (Kte. 88).] 

Zigzags (1 hr. ascent) lead to 

2J m. Summit of Maloja Pass (6060 
ft.). Scenery not grand : Bernina 
and its glaciers and the lakes 
close to the road are picturesque. 

lm. Maloja, 5941 ft. (Inn: Poste, 
the first large house in the Enga- 
dine). View from the rock oppo- 
site it (Mai Alloggio = Cold 
Harbour). 

[To Sondrio in the Valteline, 
by the Muretto, 10 hrs. This 
pass is taken as far as Chiesa, by 
those who make the tour of Mt. 
Bernina. 1 J hrs. to Pian Caning 
(6520 ft.) up rt. bank of stream. 
Leave Gl. der Forno on rt., and 
keep the track straight to the 
snow. It is frequently used by 
peasants : if hrs. to summit 8390 
ft. In descending, keep 1., and 
quit the snow when it becomes 



372 



steep. View of Disgrazia. When 
path divides take the lower one, 
and keep 1. bank of stream to 
Chiareggio, 2 hrs. fi'om summit ; 
3 inhabited houses here. If owner 
is at home, food may be had at the 
one nearest the church. Thence 
in 3 hrs. to Chiesa (Inn : Osteria 
Antica). To Sondrio, m.] 

The infant Inn (in Komansch 
Oen or Ent), flows into the Lake 
of Sils (Eom. Leg de Seglio) 3 J 
m. long, frozen nearly half the 
year. 

[This lake is fed by the small 
lake of Lugni, 2 m. higher up 
Mont Longhino, the true source 
of the Inn.] 

Sils (5896 ft.), the highest 4} m 
village of the Engadine. Its most 
conspicuous building is the villa of 
a chocolate manufacturer (Josty), 
who quitted Switzerland penniless 
and made a fortune. 

[To Chiesa, in the Valteline, 
over the Fex Glacier. The foot of 
the gl. is 5 1 m. from Sils. Char- 
road 3 m. to Cur tins, whence a pass 
leads 1. between the Caputschin 
and the Corvatz to the Eosegg 
glacier and thence to Pontresina.] 

The lake of Sils is succeeded by 
those of Silva Plana and Camp- 
feer, through both of which the 
Inn passes. At 

Silva Plana (Inns : Wilder 3 m. 
Mann ; Weisses Kreutz) the Julier 
road (Kte. 9 2) enters the Engadine. 

[Pass to Pontresina, over the Surlej, 8 
hrs., very interesting Vieus, crossing lake 
by a bridge to Surlej vill.J 

Descent into the Engadine 
gradual. S.E. rises the peak of 
Piz Languard. 

The road thence to 

St. Moritz, and on to 4 m. 

Samaden,is described in Kte. 92. 3 J in. 



373 



Bte. 95.- The 



ENGADINE. 



374 



Rte. 95. -The ENGADINE; 
SAMADEN to NAUDERS. 

SAMADEN to | Eng. m. 

Eng. m. Schuols . . 18 
Scanfs . . 9 Nauders . . 15 
Zernetz . 8£ — 
50 

Diligence daily to Nauders. Good 
carriage-road along 1. bank of Inn to 
Martinsbruck. Bead, before starting, the 
account of the road between that place 
and Nauders. A carriage from Samaden 
to Innsbruck, with 2 horses, costs 240 
frs.; pourboire, 5 frs. a day to driver. 
The journey takes 3 days, stopping 1st 
night at Schuols, 2nd at Landek. 

Engadine (Engiadina), or val- 
ley of the Upper Inn, is 60 m. 
long, 10,600 Inhab. There is no 
other valley in the Alps where so 
many villages are to be found at 
so great an elevation. It has at 
least 20 tributary valleys. In the 
phrase of the country, it has 9 
months of winter and 3 of cold 
weather. It is the habit of its 
inhabitants to emigrate at an 
early age to all parts of the 
Continent as pastrycooks, con- 
fectioners, distillers of liqueurs, 
clerks in warehouses, keepers of 
cafes, and sellers of chocolate. 
Many of them acquire fortunes, 
and end their days in their native 
valley. They display their wealth 
in their houses, which are build- 
ings of immense size, often of 
great age, but only a small part 
is devoted to human habitation. 
Owing to the severity of the cli- 
mate the cattle must be kept 
under shelter during the 8 months 
of winter; the houses, therefore, 
combine under one roof dwelling, 
barn, stable, cowshed, granary, 



hayloft, woodhouse, &c. The 
valley abounds in mineral springs, 
which have caused handsome 
Hotels and Inns to be built, 
especially at Tarasp, Vulpera, 
Schuls, &c. Poverty is rare, and 
the people, who are Protest- 
ants (except at the village of 
Tarasp ), are moral. Their pastors 
are held in great respect, but 
their pay is miserable. The sab- 
bath is strictly observed ; strangers 
only are allowed on that day to 
ride or drive, and that not until 
after church-time. The language 
is Bomansch (see Kte. 66) ; but it 
is seldom that the stranger will 
not find an interpreter. The wine 
of the Valteiine may be had good 
and cheap. 

Most of the higher pastures are 
let out to Bergamasque shepherds, 
from the valleys Seriana and Brem- 
bana, on the Italian side of the 
Alps — a wild, rough, but honest 
set of men, dressed in home- 
spun brown and white blankets, 
They arrive in July with lean 
flocks. After 3 months, spending 
often the night as well as day 
in the open air, they return home 
with fat sheep and long fleeces. 

For the upper part of the valley 
down to Samaden see Etes. 92, 
94- 

Ponte (Inns : Albula, kept by 4 J m. 
Gartman; Krone). 

The possession of the bridge 
over the Inn (which gives its name 
to this village) was desperately 
disputed by the French and Aus- 
trians on March 9, 1799. They 
fought 6 hrs. in the snow, in some 
places 5 ft. deep. [To Coire, over 
the Albula (Kte. 93).] 

Madulein. Above it is the ruined 
Castle of Gardaval, built 125 1, 



375 Bte. 95.— The 



by Bishop Folkarcl, of Coire, to* 
guard his estates. The story of 
its capture by Adam of Camogask 
is a myth. 

m. Zutz, or Suoz (Inns : Schwei- 
- zerbund, good beds), 450 Inhab. 
An old tower still remains of the 
castle of the Plantas, who, as far 
back as 1139, held the Engadine 
in feof. The climate here be- 
comes a little milder. 

ljm. Scanfs) Eom. Scamhia (Inn: 
Traube), one of the most popu- 
lous villages in the valley. 500 
Inhab. S.W. opens out the Val 
Casanna, which was penetrated 
by a French army, under the 
Prince de Kohan, in 1635, on his 
way to the Valteline to beat the 
Austrian forces at Livigno. 

[To Davos over the Scaletta 
bridle-pass, 7820 ft., 8 hrs. A 
char-road leads 1. near the ruined 
tower of Capella, if m, below 
Scanfs, to Salsanna, 1 J m. further. 
The summit of the pass is marked 
by a hut, affording shelter in a 
storm. Durrenboden is 1 hr. be- 
yond the top. There is a good 
char-road thence to Davos.] 

The Inn flows through a ro- 
mantic gorge. Below Cinuschel 
a torrent, descending from the 
Vedret, on the 1., joins the Inn, 
and is crossed by the 

3 m. Ponte Alto (Pont Ota), a hand- 
some stone bridge. The old 
wooden bridge stands higher up. 
Here is the division between 
Upper and Lower Engadine. 

[From Lavin (Inn : Post) the 
ascent of the Piz Linard is made 
in 7 J hrs. by Saglialutz, Platta 
Mala, and the cleft called " Cha- 
min," which is ascended like a 
chimney by aid of knees and 
elbows. The peak consists of 



ENGADINE. 376 



alternate bands of gneiss and 
hornblende slate. The view em- 
braces 50 summits more than 
8000 ft. high.] 

Zernets (Inns: Lowe, kept by 5h m 
Fulli ; Bar ; Post), Pop. 600. A 
handsome church and two feudal 
towers, one of which belonged to 
a branch of the Planta family, 
on the rt. bank of the Inn, 
which is crossed above and re- 
crossed by the road below Zernitz. 
Bears occur in the forest here. 
[To the Munster Thai, rt., by the 
Buffalora Pass — 7 hrs. walk. It 
is a tolerable char-road, and leads 
in 2 hrs. to Fuorn, a wretched 
Inn, the only house between the 
two places. 2 J hrs. to top of the 
pass. View of Munster Thai, 
which is reached in i^- hr. at 
Tschierf ; 2 hrs. Santa Maria. 

By the S. branch of the stream 
in ascending from Zernetz, the 
Vol Livigno is entered. From 
Livigno an easy pass in 5 hrs. 
to Bormio. 

By keeping up the Val Livig- 
no, you can re-enter Switzerland, 
either by a pass to the S., which 
takes you into the Bernina, or E. 
into the Val di Fain near Pontre- 
sina.] 

See the snow-peak of Piz 
Linard through pine-clad defile. 

Suss (Inn : H. Fliiela, Post). 4 m. 
Mr. Planta, Librarian of the ! 
British Museum, came from Siiss. 
[To Blasters in the Prattigau, over 
the Vereina Pass (Kte. 98). To 
Tschuggen and Davos, over the 
Fliiela Pass] 

The names Lavin, Zutz, and 
Ardetz, 3 villages in this part of 
the Engadine, are said to be a 
Romansch corruption of the Latin 
Lavinium, Tutium, and Ardea. 

The old road winds much up 



377 Bte. 95. — LOWER ENGADINE—TABASP. 378 



and down to reach the villages, 
which are often perched on the 
top of steep heights. The new 
road keeps to the foot of the hills, 
near the Inn, which flows at the 
bottom of a deep chasm. [Below 
Ardetz and the Castle of Steinsberg 
(Inn : Post) a road leads across 
the Inn to Tarasp, the only Ger- 
man and Koman Catholic village 
in theEngadine; 3970 ft. above 
the sea-level. The Castle on the 
hill above belongs to one of the 
Plantas. In Vulpera, 2 m. lower 
down, are Baths and Inns: 
Pension Zanoli; Arquint. The 
Kreutzberg is a wonderful point of 
view. 

(From Tarasp the Minister 
Thai may be reached by the 
Scarl Thai. It is about as far 
as by the Buffalora Pass. At 
Tschierf there is a wretched Inn ; 
2 hrs. above it is Sta. Maria.)] 

12 m. Tarasp {Bath-house and Hotel), 
on the 1. bank of the Inn, between 
the post-road and the river, a 
handsome establishment, built by 
a company, cost 6o,oocZ. ; 200 
rooms, 300 beds, 70 bath-cabinets 
supplied with the waters. It lies 
in a well, as it were, shut out 
from all view. Mineral springs 
— 2 saline, resembling those of 
Kissingen and Vichy; 2 chaly- 
beate, nearly identical with those 
of St. Moritz. Besident physiciun. 
Carriages and horses for hire. 

2m. Schuls (Kom. Scuol) (Inns: 
*H. Belvedere, in Lower Schuls ; 
Post, in Ober-Schuls ; Helvetia), 
the most populous place in Lower 
Engadiue, 950 Inhab., and is 
grandly situated, with fine views, 
over the gorge of the Inn, of the 
mountains beyond. There is much 
corn-land near this. Avalanches 
sometimes fall from the hill of 
Balluns behind. 



In the neighbourhood are 
several saline and chalybeate 
springs ; not far from them in 
places mofettas, or jets of carbonic 
acid gas, destructive to insects, 
mice, or birds that approach 
them. Below the old ch. 2 
bridges over the Inn and the 
Clemgia conduct to Vulpera and 
Tarasp vill., 3 m. Below this, 
scenery less interesting. 

Remus. Near this a bridge of 5 
wood, Ponte Piedra, crosses the 
gorge of Wraunka Tobel. Above 
it is the ruined castle Tschanuff, 
burnt by the Austrians in 1475. 

The scenery of the valley of 
the Inn is grand on approaching 

Martinsbruck (Punt Martin) 6} m. 
(Inn: Post — Lowe), the last place 
in the Engadine. [A rough foot- 
path follows the 1. bank of the river 
into the grand gorge of Finster- 
miinz.] Here the road leaves the 
Inn and takes a circuit. It is little 
better than a watercourse, and so 
excessively steep that heavy carri- 
ages must be drawn up by 2 yoke 
of oxen, and 1 J hr. is required to 
perform the stage. Travellers 
should write or telegraph on to 
Martinsbruck to have oxen in 
readiness and save loss of time. 
You ascend a wooded eminence, 
the boundary between Switzerland 
and Tyrol, and enter the Austrian 
Frontier a short while before 

Nauders ( Inn : Post, toler- 3 J m. 
able), 1 m. from the defile of 
Finstermiinz. (See Handbooh for 
South Germany). 



379 



Ete. 96. — BEBNINA PASS. 



380 



Ete. 96. — BERETS' A PASS, 
from SAMADEN in the ENGA- 
DINE to TIRANO in the VAL- 
TELINE. 

SAMADEN to Eng. m. 

Eng. m. PoschLavo . 17^ 

Pontresina . 4$ Le Prese . . i\ 

Bernina Inns 6 Tirano . . 

Carriage-road finished 1863. Diligence 
daily from Samaden to Puschiavo in 7^ 
hrs. On foot the distance may be short- 
ened some 5 m. This pass offers several 
magnificent views. 

The Bernina Alps, greatly ap- 
preciated by mountaineers, is a 
lofty chain separating the Enga- 
dine and Bregaglia on the N. 
rorn the Yalteline on the S. The 
highest peak, called Piz Bernina, 
is 13,297 ft. in height. 5 or 6 
other peaks exceed 12,000 ft. 
These form, after the Dauphine, 
Pennine, and the Bernese Alps, 
the loftiest European range. Their 
glaciers are grand and extensive. 

Samaden (Ete. 92). The road 
crosses the Inn and ascends to 
Pontresina, by the rt. bank of 
the Flatz. [A footpath from St. 
Moritz to Pontresina crosses the 
Inn between the lake and the 
waterfall, and leads by a pool and 
through a wood, over the shoulder 
or low spur between the Inn and 
the Flatz.] Just before the iron 
bridge of Muragl the road from 
Samaden falls into .that from 
Celerina and St. Moritz. 

4 J m. Pontresina ( Inns : Krone, 
small, tolerable, often full in the 
height of the season ; Weisses 
Kreutz, also good ; Steinbock, in 
the upper village) — a consider- 



able village at the foot of a snow- 
capped mountain, at the junction 
of two glacier-headed valleys, 
5566 ft. above the sea-level. It 
is 4 m. from the valley of the 
Inn, but is the best station for 
exploring the Bernina chain, 
" the central point of all that 
is most sublime and striking." 
Good guides here — among the 
best, Enderlin, host of the Kreutz 
— at a bureau in the village, and a 
regular tariff. 

View of the Kosegg gl. and 
peaks from the meadow by the 
Ch. at the back of the village. 
Sarraz's collection of stuffed ani- 
mals is well worth a visit. 

Excursions. 

a. Ascent of the **Piz Languard, 
due E. of Pontresina, but invisible 
from it. The summit, 10,714 ft., 
is easily reached in 3 hrs. ; the 
panorama one of the finest in 
the Alps ; the elevation and the 
view of grandeur such as is 
hardly to be attained elsewhere 
in the Alps in so short a time 
and by so little exertion, only 
the last hour's climb being fa- 
tiguing. It includes the whole 
of E. Switzerland, Todi, part of 
the Tyrol, Orteler, Oetzthal, and 
extends to Monte Bosa and 
Cervin. Horses may be taken 
2-3rds of the way (7 fr. and trink- 
geld for the boy who remains 
with them). A guide (7 fr.) is ne- 
cessary, except for mountaineers. 
The descent takes 2 J hrs. 

b. Nearly due S. of Pontre- 
sina stretches a mountain-ridge, 
culminating in the peak of the 
Bernina. On either side this 
Alpine buttress is flanked by a 
glacier : on the W. by the Bosegg, 
on the E. by the Morteratsch, 
both deserving to be explored 



383 



Bte. 96.-BEBNINA PASS. 



384 



and not difficult of access except 
in the upper and rifted portion, 
where they take their rise at 
the base of the Bernina. Bosegg 
Glacier is reached by a rough char- 
road nearly to the foot of the gla- 
cier, 2 J hrs. from Pontresina. The 
glacier is easy walking, and ladies 
may spend a pleasant day upon it. 
A somewhat fatiguing excursion 
leads to a green Alp, Agagliouls 
(middle point), which separates 2 
glacier-streams ; guide necessary. 
A circle of snowy peaks,, not else- 
where simultaneously visible, sur- 
rounds this Alp. 

c. FuoMa pass, not very diffi- 
cult, turns rt., 20 min. before 
reaching the Rosegg Gl. ; thence, 
in 6 hrs., leads to Silva Plana. 
The col is just above a black rock 
visible S.E. from Silva Plana, and 
is a landmark to travellers from 
that side. Views of the Bernina 
range. Descend on Surlei, or 
Surlej. 

d. Val de Fain, on the S. 
side of the Piz Lan guard. The 
scenery is fine ; rare plants are 
found there. A pass leads through 
it to Val Livigno, and so to Zer- 
netz or to Bormio (see Kte. 95). 
By another pass to the N. it is 
possible to reach Ponte, and, re- 
turning to Samaden or Pontresina, 
complete the tour of the Piz Lan- 
guard in 1 day. 

e. Diavolezza, ascending the 
Morteratsch Glacier (or the rocks 
at the side of it. and then taking 
the ice), as far as Boval, and the 
junction of the Vadret Pers, where 
there is a curious island of rock 
jutting out of the ice — " the Jar- 
din " of this district— called Isola 
Pers, commanding a magnificent 
view. Mountaineers may cross 
the Pers glacier towards the foot 
of Mont Pers, and ascending along 
a wearisome slope of del)ris, suc- 



ceeded by a rough bit of rock- 
work, reach the Col of the Diavo- 
lezza, between that peak and Mont 
Pers. View magnificent. Descend 
by a steep bit of glacier to a hol- 
low containing a blue lake, into 
which fall masses of ice from the 
glaciers of Mont Pers, 800 ft. 
above. Then bear down to 1., and 
descend to Bernina Inns. 

Road to the Bernina Pass. 

20 min. walk above the highest 
houses of Pontresina, near a saw- 
mill, is a fine waterfall formed by 
the stream from the Languard. 

In. 2 zigzags the road surmounts 
a projecting rock of granite. 
[Just below this the old road, 
diverging rt., leads by a bridge 
over the Bernina stream to the 
Morteratsch Glacier (see above). 

By the high road the great 
glacier of Morteratsch is passed 
close on the rt., 1 hr. above Pon- 
tresina. It fills to its mouth the 
lateral valley in which it lies ; 
being restrained by a fir-clad ridge, 
which, with the exception of a 
cleft in the middle, closes the 
valley. It rises to a height above 
its fringe of trees. This glacier is 
of the largest size, and has an im- 
mense central moraine. It may 
most easily be reached from its 
eastern side, whence, after a little, 
there is no difficulty in descending 
on to the ice and crossing to the 
opposite side. Kt. of the road, 
Falls of the Bernina. 

Bernina Inns— 3 cabarets in a 6 m. 
desolate place, 1 J hr. below the 
summit, at the mouth of 1. the 
Val de Fain. 

[To Bormio, on foot, 1., up 
V. del Fain, to 2J hrs. col of la 
Stretta. Descend to junction of 2 
streams; cross just below by a 
bridge to rt. bank ; recross ; 2 J hrs. 



385 



Bte. 96.—BERNINA PASS. 



386 



Livigno ( food at Bormellini's I 
house, No. 8, nearly through the 
village). Over a hill — crucifix on 
top — to i hr. 5 m. Trepalle. Food 
and wine at the Cure's (casa pa- 
rocchiale). — ij hr. to top of Fos- \ 
cagno. View, iooyds. rt. of path. 
Descend ; always take the lower 
branches of the road, keeping 
near the 1. bank of stream. Cross 
to rt. bank at Isolaccia; recross 
by the next bridge. Just before 
Premaglio turn 1., and do not cross 
the torrent from the Stelvio till 
past the forge. — 3 hrs. Baths of 
Bormio. ] 

3 J m. The Summit, 7658 ft., is marked 
by 2 small lakes, the Black (Leg 
Nair), which runs into the Inn, 
and the White, into the Adda. 
Just before reaching them, there 
is a choice of ways. 

a. The carriage-road, leaving 
the Lakes on the rt., turns off 1., 
crosses the ridge of the Camin, and 
passes down by 

5 J m. La Rosa (a poor mountain Inn), 
and 

3 m. Pisciadella, into the beautiful 
valley of Puschiavo. 

[To Bormio by the Vol Viola 
pass ; 6 hrs. Leave the high road 
L, below La Kosa (or below Pisci- 
adella, if ascending), and ascend 
the Voile di Campo, which leads 
to the Val Viola, a continuation 
of it at a higher level, with small 
lakes. Before reaching Val Viola, 
the path branches (1. up the Val 
Agone to Livigno) ; our route is 
straight on and leads over the 1. 
of the head of Val Viola. De- 
scending N., the path is well 
traced, and meets the char-rd. at 
Isolaccia, 6 m. from Bormio.] 

b. The old bridle-path (far more 
Kp. Switz. 



interesting^, about 1 hr. shorter, 
but rough and arduous, is con- 
tinued along the rt. (W.) margin 
of the lakes, for 3 m. see rt. the 
Cambrena glacier from the Ber- 
nina. The path beyond the lakes 
sweeps to the rt. down to a small 
village, Cavaglia, with a miserable 
auberge. Bears are not uncom- 
mon here. Indescribably grand 
View over the beautifully-formed 
glacier of Palu. Hence, a rapid 
descent to Puschiavo. Views of 
it and of the beautiful lake beyond. 
The main road is entered a little 
below Puschiavo. 

Puschiavo (Germ. Pusklav) 5 J m. 
(Inn: Croce Bianco, good and 
reasonable, a curious old house, 
with family portraits and other 
pictures), the principal place in 
the valley, mainly supported by 
trafrc of goods, 3000 Inhab., 
built in the Italian fashion. 
Above are ruins of Castle Oligati. 

One-third of the Inhab. of 
this valley are Protestants ; but 
owing to the jealousy of the Eoman 
Catholics, their ch. is almost a 
fortress, and capable of defence 
against attacks. Their language 
is corrupt Italian. 

Lower down, the road which is 
excellent, skirts, W., the charming- 
little lake of Puschiavo, famed for 
trout. 

Le Prese, beautifully sit. N. of 2 J m. 
the lake ( Inn, very comfortable), 
is becoming much frequented by 
the English. Baths well kept. 
Sulphur-waters. Many Lombard 
visitors. Numerous pleasant walks. 

[To Chiesa, over the Canciano 
pass, 8366 ft., 9 hrs.; no food by 
the way. Turn from high road 
opposite a bridge, 1 m. above 
Prcsa. The pass is through a 
marked gap visible after half the 
o 



387 



tie. 98.— -The 



PBATTIGAU. 



388 



ascent. Descent partly in steep 
zigzags, something like the Gem- 
mi. At the foot lies Lanzada, and 
■J hr. further, Cbiesa (Inn : Osteria 
Antica, poor). To make the tour 
of the Bemina, go thence to the 
Engadine over the Muretto pass. 
Ete. 94.3 

4 m. Brusio is the last Swiss village. 
On quitting the lake, the Pus- 
chiavo passes through a defile, 
barely allowing room for the road. 
It is a raging torrent, and is re- 
strained by solid dykes. Beyond 
this, the Valteline, or Yale of the 
Adda, opens out at 

4Jm. Tirano (Inn: Madonna, good). 
(See Handbook for South Ger- 
many.) 



Rte. 98.— The PEATTIGATJ— 
COXHE or BAGrATZ by LAND- 
QUART to SUSS in trie EN- 
GADINE. 

COIEE to 
Landquart Ely. (Rte 66). 
Kloster (dil.) . .21 miles. 
Suss (foot) . " . 7 hours. 

Small diligence between Landquart 
Stat, on the Coire Ely. to Klosters and 
Davos. 

Coire by rly. (Ete. 66), 20 min. 

to 

Landquart Stat (Inn: Zur 
Oberen Zollbriicke). 



The Prattigau (Eom. Val Par- 
tenz) is entered through the 
defile of Klus, giving passage to 
the Landquart torrent. This pass 
was once commanded by the 

Castle Pragstein (ruined) ; a 2 m. 
wall, down to the Landquart, 
closed the passage into the valley. 
The Prattigau, 20 m. long, is shut 
in by mtns. and glaciers. It is nar- 
row, but rich in pasture (whence 
the name Prati-govia), and famed 
for large cattle. Pop. ro,ooo, who 
now speak German, though the 
names of places are still Eomansch. 
On the N. side of the valley are the 
Bhxtikon mtns., beyond them the 
Vorarlberg. 

Grusch {Inn: Krone). [Be- 
hind this village (3 m.) is Seewis, 
where is an establishment for 
goat's whey (H. Scesa-Plana, 
very good), in tbe vale of the 
Ganeier, at the head of which 
rises the Scesa Plana (9136 ft.), 
highest of the Khsetic chain, 
over which runs the Pass of the 
Schweitzer Thor to Bludenz, in 
Vorarlberg, Ete. roi.] 



Jenatz (Heiins' Inn). 



8 m. 



Eoad turns off to Fideris. 1 m. 

[The village. 2 m. HDonati's 
Inn), stands on a height above 
our rte., and is not visible from 
it. A bad road leads to the Baths 
of Fideris, 2 m. S. of the village, 
in a wild gorge, not unlike Pfaf- 
fers. The baths, taken for chest- 
complaints and intermittent fevers, 
are supplied by strong alkaline 
springs, like Seltzer water. The 
visitors are nearly all Swiss. The 
2 Bath-houses lodge 200 persons. 
The accommodation is quite se- 
cond-rate, though the table- d'hote 
is well supplied.] 



389 



Btk 99.— CfOIBE to PLAZ. 



390 



Rte. 99. — COIEE to PLAZ 
(DAVOS) and KXOSTEKS, by 
the SCHANFIK THAI and 
PASS of the ST&ELA. 

COIRE to 
Plaz or Davos (bridle) . io hrs. 

There are no villages in the bed 
of the Schanfik Thai ; all are on 
spurs of the northern mtns., "di- 
vided from one another by ravines, 
which have to be dipped into and 
doubled ronnd. The path seems 
never less than iooo ft. above the 
river. From Coire to 



[Path S. by Fideris, in 3 J hrs., 
over the mtns. into the Schanfik- 
thalj 

2j m. Kublis, a picturesque village of 
old houses. {Inn : Krone, good.) 

7m. IClosters, 3700 ft. (Inn: not 
good), a scattered village of new 
houses, named after a suppressed 
Convent ; in view of the glacier of 
Fermunt. 

The char-road continues 4 m. 
farther up the valley to a tributary 
stream from the Silvretta gl., in 
which the Pr'attigau terminates. 

[Vereina Pass, 8 or 9 hrs. on 
foot to Siis. Guide and provi- 
sions required. Ascend 1. bank 
of Landquart ; turn rt. S. up 
the Vereinabach to Stutz-Alp 
(2 J hrs.), and to the V. Pass, a 
gap in the riclge of Val Torta, 
813 3 ft. Glimpses of Piz Linard. 
The Val Sagliains being too 
rough and precipitous for a pass- 
age, you turn S.W. and descend 
the Val Fless as far as its junc- 
tion with Val Susasca, where you 
enter path from the Fliiela (Rte. 
100). 

9 hrs. Sus, in the Engadine (Inn : 
Krone). 

The char-road to Davos quits 
the Landquart at Klosters, as- 
cends in zigzags the Laret Pass 
(5338 ft.), skirts theW. side of 
the Davos See, abounding in 
trout, to 

7111. Davos-Dorfli (Inn: Rossli, 
plain). 

[From Dorfli by the Fluela 
pass to Siis (see Rte. 100). 

Davos Plaz (Rte. 99). 



Maladers, the first village of 1 hr. 
the valley. The col of the Strela 
(j hrs. distant) is visible, due E., 
from here. 



Langwiesen ; 4 j hrs 

Col, 7800 ft. (the last J hr. being 2J hrs 
steep zigzags). Views here, and 
lower in the descent, which is 
steep. 

Davos or Plaz (Rom. Davous, 1 hr. 
behind) (Inn: Zum Strela, very 
good quarters ; whey cure). The 
BatMaus, now a primitive Inn^ 
is hung round with heads of 
wolves slain in the district. 

0 2 



Caffreisen, a village with an 
ancient tower crowned with trees. 
View. The snowy mtns. of the 
Kalfeuser Thai are seen W. 
through the opening of the valley. 



391 



Bte. 100.— PLAZ or DAVOS to SUS. 



392 



a. Down the valley of Davos. 
Its pastoral character is retained 

through Frauenkirche, the Bad- 
haus of Spina, and Glaris. Farther 
down it is much contracted. — 5 
hrs. to Alveneu, or to Filisur, both 
on the road of the Albula. To the 
Upper Engadine by the Fluela, 
Ete. 100 ; or by the Scaletta, Kte. 
95- 

b. Up tbe valley of Davos. 

To Klosters, 10 m. (2 J hrs. by 
a good char-rd.) alongside the 
Davos See, over a low pass. 
Chars, 4 hrs. 

Diligence daily from Plaz through 
Kublis (where it stops 2 hrs. for dinner), 
to Landquart Stat, on the Coire Ely. It 
arrives in time for the last trains to 
Zurich {see Ete. 98). 



Rte. lOO.-PLAZ or DAVOS 
to SUS, by tlie FLTJELA 
PASS. 

Carriage-road in progress. , 

Leaving Plaz (or Davos), and 

ascending the highway, the char- 
rd. turns rt. from 

J hr. Dorfli, and goes'up the Fluela 
valley. 

2 hrs. Tschuggen. The only Inn a 
cabaret. Here the char-rd. ends. 



Summit of the Fluela (79002 hra. 
ft.), a small plain with 2 pools. 

[View of Schwarzhorn, which 
separates this pass from the Sca- 
letta, Ete. 95 . It deserves ascent.] 



Sus (Kte. 95), or Susch. 



2| hrs 



Rte. 101. — BLUDENZ, in 
VOUABLBERGr, to the PRAT- 
TIGAU, by the PASS of the 
SCHWEIZERTHOR. 

A very fine and interesting 
pass, especially suited to moun- 
taineers as an agreeable alterna- 
tive to the ordinary way round 
by road. Guides may be found 
at Brand. 

About 9 or 10 hrs. walk. 

Leaving Bludenz (Inn, Post, 
— see Handbook for S. Germany), 
and crossing the stream by a 
bridge, a shady road leads to the 
village of Burs, where there is 
a fine gorge worth visiting even 
by those not bound mountain- 
wards. Bearing to the rt., tbe 
ascent commences at once by 
a zigzag road through a pretty 
forest, the village of Burseberg 
soon appearing on the rt. It is 
a constant ascent, commanding 
veiy fine views of the gorge of 
the Alvierbach and over Bludenz 
and the mountains of the Vorarl- 
berg behind, and of the glaciers 
of the Scesa Plana before, all the 
way to 



393 Rte. 101 . — 8 Gil WEI ZEE THO B PASS. 394 



2 J hrs. Brand (decent little Inn). A 
little above Brand the stream is 
crossed and some chalets reached, 
beyond which the ascent is 
rougher, the path taking an ab- 
rupt turn to the 1., and the valley 
blocked at the upper end by a 
vast wall of rock iooo ft. high, 
extending straight across from 
the mass of the Scesa Plana to 
the precipices of the Zimbaspitz. 
Path crosses stream several times 
until close to the foot of the wall, 
when it finally crosses to a steep 
slope of debris, fallen from the 
Scesa Plana on the rt., up which 
the ascent lies. From this point 
it is a very stiff, fatiguing climb 
of fully i hr. to the top of the 
rocky wall, on reaching which 
a curious sight presents itself. 
Occupying, as it were, a sort of 
crater, and enclosed on all sides 
by crags and precipices, a lake, 

li hr. the Liiner See, about i m. in 
extent, is discovered some 150 
ft. below the path on the other 
side of the wall, the waters of 
which are carried off by 2 sub- 
terranean outlets through the 
rocky barrier which rises from 
50 to 200 ft. above the level of 
the lake. Fine view to the N. 

[From this point the Scesa Plana 
may be ascended in 4 hrs., view 
extremely grand, over Suabia, 



Rhine valley, Lakes of Zurich and 
Wallenstadt, Alps of Appenzell, 
Berne, Tyrol to Orteler. Should 
this ascent be combined with the 
pass, it would be advisable to 
sleep at Brand the previous 
night.] 

Path continues round the lake 
till the opposite side is reached ; 
then ascent continues, keeping 
to the rt., until Col is reached, 
from which splendid view over 
all the Grison and Glarus Alps. 

6 full hrs. of constant ascent 2 hrs. 
from Bludenz. Descent at first 
steep grass, then hopeless bog, 
until reaching chalets in 1 hr. 
From this point the path is pecu- 
liar. Instead of following the 
course of the stream (down which, 
however, it is possible but not 
easy to force a way), it strikes 
to the rt., ascending and keeping 
close to the Scesa Plana, in order 
to avoid several torrents descend- 
ing from that mtn. Path bad, 
boggy, and confusing ; but after 
a while the true descent is ob- 
served on the opposite side of the 
last torrent, which is reached in 
1 hr. from the chalets ; crossing 
stream by a bridge, a very bad 
road (in course of improvement) 
conducts, in 1 hr., to 

Seewis, in Pr'attigau {Lin : 
Scesa Plana), Rte. 98. — I. G. S. 



395 Bte. 111.— DOMO D'OSSOLA to ABONA. 396 



SECTION II. 
ROUTES IN PIEDMONT AND SAVOY. 



Rte. 111.— BOMO D'OSSOLA to 
AHONA. BO&ROMEAN IS- 
LANDS. LAGO MAGrGrlOEE. 



DOMO to 
Vogogna 
Baveno 



AronaPJy.Stat. 13 



It is 4 hrs. drive from Domo to 



Ely. slowly in progress. The steamers 
can "be joined either at Pallanza or Baveno. 
Stresa or Baveno are the best stopping- 
places for seeing the Borromean Islands, 
or ascending the Motterone. Pallanza is 
more convenient for Lugano, or the X. 
end of the Lago Maggiore. 

From Domo the road descends 
by the Tosa, the bridges over 
which were carried off by the 
storms of 1834 and 1849. 

J] At Pallenzeno road turns off to Pie di 
Mulera and Val Anzasca, Ete. 121.] 

8 m. Bridge across the Tosa above 
the confluence of the Anza, rt. 
The Tosa, in spite of its rapidity, 
is navigable thns far. The barges 
are towed up by double teams of 
6 or 8 horses on each bank. 



lm. Vogogna (Inn: Corona, fair). 

1 m. Premosello. [Carriage-road to 
Pallanza, past the beautiful Lake 
Mergozzo.J Recross the Tosa. 



Ornavasso. Near here are the 3 m. 
white-marble quarries which sup- 
plied the stone for Milan Cathe- 
dral. 

Gravellona. Large cotton-mills. 8 m. 
Bridge across the Stroua, from 
the Lago d Orta, [Carriage-road 
up its 1. bank, in 4 m. to the lake 
and town of Orta (Ete. 118). 

Carriage-road, 1., over a ferry to 
Pallanza.2 

Fariolo (Inn: Lion d'Or, at-lni. 
tentive landlord). Part of the 
village slipped into the water 
1867. The Lago Maggiore bursts 
into view, with Isola Madre in 
the distance. Further on are 
quarries of rose granite (coloured 
with felspar), which may be de- 
tached in flesh-coloured crystals. 

Steamers call here at a. m. descend- 
ing, and at ii p.m. on ascending the 
lake. 

Baveno (Inns : H. Bellevue, 2 m. 
a new house, very clean and 
good, close to the lake; H. de 
la Poste, improved, moderate 
charges). 

[ Borromean Islands. — The 

steamers touch at the Isola Bella 
several times a day, and offer 
both facility and cheapness for 
the excursion. Kow-boats 2 J fir. 
for each rower. It takes 25 
minutes to row from Baveno 
(and less from Stresa— see below) 
to the Isola Bella, passing, on 



397 



Ete. 111.— LAGO MAGGIORE to AEON A. 



398 



the way, the Isola clei Pescatori 
(its inhabitants are fishermen, 
whose hovels contrast with the 
stately structures of the neigh- 
bouring island). 

Isola Bella {Inn : Delfino, very 
fair), belongs to Count Borromeo, 
who partly resides here. An an- 
cestor made the place in 1671. 
It consists of 10 terraces, the 
lowest founded on piers, rising 
one above another, and lined with 
statues, vases, obelisks, and black 
cypresses. Upon these the plants of 
Southern Italy, and even of the tro- 
pics, flourish in the open air — and 
this within a day's journey of the 
Lapland climate of the Simplon. 

Gibbon calls it " an enchanted 
palace, a work of the fairies." To 
taste it may have little pretension ; 
but, for a traveller fresh from the 
north, this singular creation of art, 
with its aromatic groves and 
glorious situation, cannot fail to 
afford pleasure. 

The Palace, as well as the 
gardens, are liberally shown to 
strangers, and they, especially the 
gardens, abounding in rare trees 
and plants, well repay a visit. It 
contains some pictures and fine 
rooms. The large building which 
separates the wings was intended 
for a central hall, but has never 
been covered in. 

Isola Madre is well worth a 
visit by a horticulturist. Tropical 
plants grow luxuriantly. 

[**Ascent of Monte Motterone 
or Margozzolo from Baveno, a 
most interesting excursion (see 
Rte. ti8;.] 

lago Maggiore. 

Steamers between Magadino and Arona, 
calling at the villages on either shore of 
the lake, in 4^- hrs. Travellers from the 
Swiss ports of Magadino or Locarno are 
liable to have their luggage examined on 
reaching the first Italian custom-house. 



Row-boats. — Ask for the tariff, or bar- 
gain beforehand ; the boatmen are extor- 
tionate. 

Lago Maggiore, the Lacus Ver- 
banus of the Eomans (Germ. 
Langen See), 54 m. long by 3 m. 
wide, but broader at Baveno. 
Only its N. end belongs to Swit- 
zerland. The scenery of that part 
is bold and diversified ; so is the 
W. arm, containing the Borro- 
mean Islands; but, towards the 
S. and E., its shores subside into 
the plain of Lombard y. There is 
a quantity of fish : the fishery is 
the property of the Borromeo fa- 
mily, and let for a large sum. 

Garibaldi, in 1848, seized the 
only two steamers then on the 
lake, armed them, and for two 
months cruised about, levying con- 
tributions on the Austrian towns 
and on the Sardinian convents, 
and keeping the helpless residents 
on the shore in a state of terror. 
At length he was beaten off from 
Laveno, and soon afterwards 
abandoned the steamers. 

The voyage down the lake is 
delightful. Villages and churches 
are perched on the heights ; and 
wherever a deposit has been 
formed in the lake by a torrent, a 
village will be found. 

The letters E. and TV. prefixed to the 
names of places, refer to the E. and ll r . 
shores of the lake. 

For (E.) Magadino and (W.) 
Locarno, see Rte. 113. 

( W.) Ascona, surmounted by a 
castle. 

(W.) Brissago, conspicuous with 
its white houses, and avenue of cy- 
press leading to the ch. Terrace 
rises above terrace against the 
hill-side ; and the vine, fig, olive, 
pomegranate, and myrtle flourish- 



399 Bte. 111.— BOMO D % 



VSSOLA to ABONA. 400 



in the open air. Beyond this the 
Swiss territory ends. 

(E.) St. Abbondio (Swiss). 

(17.) Canobbio {Inn: Bissone, 
fair), at the entrance of V. Cano- 
bina. Ch. designed by Bra- 
mante. 

( 17.) Before Oggebbio is the villa 
of the Marquis d'Azeglio ; just be- 
low it that of Prince Poniatowski. 

(17.) Canero. 

A carriage-road is in progress thus far, 
and will be continued along the shore. 

(E.) Luino (Bte. 115) [Beauti- 
ful road by Ponte Tresa to Lu- 
gano. Diligence daily, in 2§ 
hrs]. 

( 17.) Intra (Inns : Vitello d'Oro ; 
Lion d'Or; small) : 4000 Inhab. 
Manufactories of glass, cotton, 
and silk, and a foundry. The 
torrent from the Val Intrasca 
affords abundant water-power. 
Opposite Intra, and hence to Pal- 
lanza, the peaks of part of Mte. 
Kosa chain appear. 

(17.) Pallanza ( Inn : l'Univers, 
good): 2500 Inhab. Seat of the 
governor of the province. 

Here is a nursery-garden of 
some celebrity, and a model prison 
for male convicts. Excursions. — 
a. Lago Mergozzo (take food), on 
road to Gravellona. Omnibus 
thence daily to Omegna and L. 
d'Orta. b. Borromean islands. 

Diligence daily to Donio d'Ossola. 

(E.) Laveno (Inns : Poste, best, 
fair; II Moro, fine view from it). 
[Dil. daily to the rly. at Como, 
by Varese and the Sacro Monte. 



Views of Monte Eosa, between 
Laveno and Como."} 

Baveno to Arona continued — 
The Simplon road, between 
Baveno and Arona, is a terrace of 
granite masonry. The telegraph 
wires run between granite posts. 

Stresa (H. des Isles Bor-2Jm. 
romees, very good indeed). 
Steamers touch here. There is 
English ch. service in the house — 
11 'and 3 on Sunday. Villa of 
Duchess of Genoa. On the hill 
large Convent of Eosminian 
monks. 

Belgirate, and Lesa, the sum- 
mer residence of Manzoni, pretty 
villages, remarkable for the num- 
ber of villas with terraces and 
gardens. The colossal statue of 
St. Carlo Borromeo (see below) 
appears on the hill, rt., before 
reaching 

Arona Stat. (Inns: Albergollm. 

dTtalia, good, but extortionate 
charge ; Alb. Eeale), a rapidly im- 
proving town of 4000 Inhab. The 
steamboat pier is close to the rly. 
station. 

In the Ch. (Santa Maria) is a 
picture attributed to Gaudenzio 
Ferrari, — a Holy Family, — and 
the portrait of a Countess Borro- 
meo. San Carlo Borromeo was 
born in the old castle above 
Arona, 1538; destroyed by the 
French, 1797. 

Lake dwellings. — Their remains 
have been dug up on the marshy 
ground near Mercurago. 

Colossal Statue of St. Charles 
Borromeo, erected 1697, 66 ft. 
high, and placed on a pedestal 40 
ft. high, stands on a hill J hr. 
walk from the town. The head, 
hands, and feet alone are cast in 



401 Bte. 112.— DOMO D'OSSOLA to LOCABNO. 402 



bronze ; the rest of the figure is 
formed of sheets of beaten copper, 
arranged round a pillar of rough 
masonry. The saint is repre- 
sented extending his hand to- 
wards the lake, and over his 
birthplace, Arona, bestowing be- 
nediction. It is possible to enter 
the statue by a ladder, and to 
mount up into the head. In the 
neighbouring church several relics 
of San Carlo are preserved. 

View from the top of la Bocca, 
above Arona. The geologist will 
find near the quarries of Dolomite 
an interesting contact of the mag- 
nesian limestone and red por- 
phyry. 

Opposite Arona, on the other 
side of the lake, stands the Castle 
of Anger a, a fief of the Borromeos, 
on a similar Dolomite peak, at the 
foot of which is the neat village 
of the same name. 

Diligences daily to Domo d'Ossola and 
Brieg over the Simplon. 

A good carriage-road leads from Arona 
to Orta (Rte. n8), 12 m. Omnibus daily. 

Bail.— Arona to Milan in 2* hrs. ; to 
Turin i\ ; to Genoa 4f . 

The steamer runs from Arona to Sesto 
Calende at the S. extremity of the lake, 
whence rly. direct to 

Milan (see Handbook for N. 
Italy). 



Rte. 112.— DOMO D'OSSOLA 
to LOCARNO, by the VAL 
VEGEZZA. 30 miles. 

DOMO to 

Sta. Maria Maggiore (char) 1 1 miles. 
Locarno (foot) .... 6 hrs. 

Direct way. Fine scenery. 



A good carriage-road from Domo to 
Malesco, and from Intragna (Bustallo's 
Inn) to Locarno. 

Val Vegezza opens out opposite 
Domo. It contains handsome vil- 
las belonging to its natives, who 
have returned there to end their 
days, after making their fortunes 
in business. This valley does not 
lead to a well-defined col, but to 
a sort of table-land, about 1 6 oo ft. 
above Domo, on which is situated 

Sta. Maria Maggiore (3 hrs. 11 m. 
up hill in a char). {Inn : Leone 
d'Oro.) This is the chief village 
on the way. [To Canobbio on 
the Lago Maggiore through V. 
Canobbina.] 

Descent through V. Centovalli, 
foot or horse path. 

Borgonone. 3 } irSt 

Locarno (Rte. 113). 3 hrs. 



Rte. 113.— BELLINZONA to 
MAGADINO or LOCARNO. 

BELLINZONA to sr. 
Magadino .... 9 
Locarno 12 

The Swiss ports of Magadino and Lo- 
carno are both at the N. end of L. Mag- 
giore. The steamers start from Maga- 
dino, and call at Locarno. It is 9 m. 
(carnage 10 fr.) from Bellinzona to Maga- 
dino, and ni to Locarno (carriage 15 fr.). 
Omnibuses meet the steamers daily from 
both towns (2 or it hrs.). 

The Vale of the Ticino, between 
Bellinzona and the lake, is a broad 



403 



Bte. 113.— BELLINZONA to LOCABNO. 



404 



plain : but the mountains still 
give grandeur to the landscape. 
The slopes are covered with vine- 
yards ; the bottom is marshy, and 
unhealthy. 

To Magadino. — Quitting 

Bellinzona, the dry bed of the 

Bragonata is passed. As its name 
implies, it is a great scourge ; it 
carried off in 1768 the Franciscan 
convent outside the town. 

There are countiy-houses on 
the outskirts ; and high on the 
hills are numerous buildings, now 
deserted, to which the natives of 
Bellinzona used to resort for safety 
when plague raged in the town. 

5 m. Cadenazzo p. to Lugano, over 
Monte-Cenere (Bte. 114,]. 

4m. Magadino (Inn: H. Belve- 
dere, at the steamboat pier, dirty 
and dear). The unhealthiness of 
this place is felt only in Sept. 
and Oct. It has become an im- 
portant entrepot of corn from 
Lombardy, and live stock from 
Switzerland. 

To Locarno. — The road hilly, 
but beautiful. Blwy. talked of. 
From 

Bellinzona the road crosses the 
Ticino by a long bridge, and 
passes under Monte Carasso. View 
up the valley over Bellinzona to 
the snowy Alps. Then through 
a wall lately constructed by the 
Swiss as a fortification. 

lm. Bridge of Sementina. Here 
is a waterfall. The latter part of 
the route winds along the W. of 
the lake, among villas and chest- 
nut-trees, mulberry-trees, and 
vines. Exquisite views of the lake 
and mtns, 



Locarno (Germ. Luggarus) 12 
( Inns : Corona, by the lake, fair — 
attentive waiter ; Svizzero, higher 
up in the town, tolerable). This 
is one of the three capitals of can- 
ton Tessin 52976 Inhab. It has de- 
cayed since the 15th century. It 
is beautifully situ, on the lake, at 
the foot of wooded cliffs sur- 
mounted by the ch. of Madonna 
del Sasso, and near the entrance 
of • 4 converging valleys. The 
place is naturally Italian, though, 
as far as frontier is concerned, in 
Switzerland. The spot is one of 
singular beauty, and greatly to be 
preferred to Magadino. 

Government House, in a square 
planted with shrubberies. Old 
Castle ; antique rooms with wood- 
carvings. Churches, several, and 
4 convents. On Sunday, Jan. ri, 
1863, the roof of S. Antonio, being 
loaded with snow, gave way under 
the weight ; fell upon the congre- 
gation at prayers, and crushed to 
death more than 5 o persons, chiefly 
women. 

Madonna del Sasso is 20 m. 
walk above the town, through a 
Calvary, inferior to those at Donio 
d Ossola and Varallo, but beauti- 
fully laid out. From the portico of 
the ch. *View over the blue lake, 
and the course of the Ticino. In- 
side are paintings by Luini, stuc- 
coes, and bas-reliefs. Hence, 10 
min. walk, to Monte de la Trinita. 
Panorama. 

Market every Thursday; ex- 
hibits peculiar costumes. 

Priests. — Their intolerance in 
1553 compelled the Protestants 
to leave the town : 116 were 
banished; with them went in- 
dustry and prosperity. They' 
settled at Zurich, transferring 
thither the manufacture of silk. 
The papal nuncio indignantly ob- 
jected to the mildness of the sen- 



405 Rte. 1U.— BELLINZONA. 



to LUGANO and COMO. 406 



Rte. 114.— BELLINZONA to 

LUGANO, COMO, and CAMEE- 
LATA, by MONTE CENERE. 

BELLLNZOXA to Eng. m. 

Lugano (dil.) 21% 

Capolago (steamer or road) . . 9 
Corno (dil.) 9^- 



tence. The Eeformation was first 
preached here by Beccaria, a Mi- 
lanese monk, about 1534 : he was 
expelled, and took refuge in Val 
Misocco. There were 2 1 convents 
in canton Tessin ; but nearly all 
of them are now suppressed. 

Crime. — The criminal statistics 
of the district around Locarno 
show a large amount of crime, 
and especially of stabbing, in pro- 
portion to the number of inhabit- 
ants. 

Steamers, 3 times a-clay, tra- 
verse Lago Maggiore from end to 
end in 4 hrs., calling at the prin- 
cipal places on either shore. 
Rte. in. 

Less than an hr's. walk to Ponte 
Brolla, at the mouth of the Val 
Maggia, a fine scene. The river 
descends in a fall under the 
bridge; chestnut and walnut 
trees. 

[The Vol Maggia (Germ. Mayenthal), 
N. of Locarno, is a considerable valley 
with many tributaries. A carriage-road 
has been made 18 m. to Cevio (a new 
Inn), in the main valley, and thence 9 m. 
to Peccia, through the branch called Vol 
Lavizzara. From Fusio, the highest vil- 
lage in that branch of the valley, there is 
a pass to Airolo in 6 hrs. 

The pass of the Criner Furca from 
Cevio to Val Formazza is noticed in Rte. 
62. 

At the head of the Val Onsernone, 
another tributary valley, are the Baths of 
Craveggia, used for scrofula and internal 
obstruction. 

To Porno d'Ossola by the Centovalli, 
Ete. 112. 

These valleys are rarely visited by 
strangers.] 



To Lugano 21^ m. (4 hrs., for the road 
is hilly), 19 m. by road on to Como. Dili- 
gence daily to Lugano, thence steamer to 
Capo Lago, and diligence correspondence 
with Como. 

Leaving Bellinzona, the valley 
of the Tessin is quitted at 

Cadenazzo. Then Monte Ce-5 rn 
nere is mounted in zigzags through 
walnut and chestnut woods. 
Exquisite views over Lago Mag- 
giore, Locarno, &c. 

At times robberies on this road. 

Summit. (It cannot be reached 4 1 
under 2 hrs. from Bellinzona.) A 
guardhouse is placed here. The 
road now makes a sharp turn 1. 

It falls in with the river Agno 3 J 
(which rises 12 m. to the E., at 
the foot of Monte Camoghe), and 
follows it to 

Lamone, where it turns to the 5 r 
1., and again ascends a slight 
eminence, whence an interesting 
prospect opens out on the opposite 
descent towards Lugano. In front 
expands its beautiful lake, backed 
by mountains ; and, on the rt., the 
Monte Salvadore, with the chinch 
011 its conical summit, becomes 
conspicuous. A final steep de- 
scent to 



407 Ete. 1U.—BELLINZONA to LUGANO and COMO. 408 



4 m. Lugano (Germ. Lauis) {see 
Rte. 115). 

The road to Como runs by the 
water-side, under the Monte Salva- 
tore. 

4 m. Melide is the birthplace of 
Fontana, the architect, who, in 
1586, transported the Egyptian 
obelisk from the Coliseum at 
Borne, and erected it on the square 
in front of the Vatican. Here a 
promontory projects, from which 
a stone pier with drawbridges is 
built across the lake to 

1 m. Bissone. The pier is con- 
nected with either shore by stone 
bridges, and cost 40,000/. 

After a delightful ride along 
the shore of the lake, passing 

3 m. Melano, the road quits it at 

1 m. Capolago, where there used to 
be printing-offices, chiefly of pro- 
hibited books. 

Here the steamers from Lugano land 
their passengers, and the diligence is 
taken. 

A long ascent commences. 

3 m. Mendrisio {Inn tolerable). 
The inhabitants keep their wine 
in caves in the mountains, which 
form capital cellars. 

2Jm. Balerna. 

f Ascent of the Monte Generoso, 
or Monte Gionnero, 5301 ft. (4412 
feet above the lake), the Rigi of 
the Italian lakes ; a first-class pa- 
norama. A mountaineer will 
have little difficulty in reaching 
the summit from many places; 
but the easiest way is by Vol 
Muggio, which opens out at Ba- 
lerna. Unless the traveller be 
well used to rough quarters, he 



will do better to sleep at Mendri- 
sio, and start 2 or even 3 hrs. be- 
fore daylight. There are no re- 
gular guides.] 

Chiasso. 2 r 

Italian custom-house and po- 
lice-office is shortly reached. 
Thence a constant descent to 

Como (see Handbook for North 4| 
Italy). Omnibus uphill to 

Camerlata Ely. Stat. 1| 

Ely. from Camerlata to Monza and 
Milan. The trains 4 times a day. 



409 



Rte. 115.— LUINO to the LAKE of LUGANO. 



410 



Rte. 115.— LUINO on LAGO 
MAGGIOKE to the LAKE of 
LUGANO, and thence to ME- 
NAGGIO on the LAKE of 
COMO. 

LUINO to Eng. m. 

Lugano (dil.) 12 

Porlezza (steamer) ... 9 
Menaggio (char) .... 9 

Luino ( Inn : H. della Beccaccia, 
very fair ; Garibaldi made a 3tand 
in this house 1849. The walls 
still bear marks of bullets), a small 
village, at which the steamers 
touch, on the E. shore of the Lago 
Maggiore; the birthplace of the 
painter Bernardino, named after it 
Luini. The Steamer takes 2 J 
hrs. from Luino to the Borromean 
Islands. 

A caleche with 2 horses to Lugano 
20 fr., 12 m., a drive of 2f hrs. Diligence 
daily in 3 hrs. 

The road from Luino to Lugano 
is one of the most charming on the 
S. side of the Alps. 

The road mounts the hills be- 
hind Luino. View. It then fol- 
lows the Tresa, high above its rt. 
bank, through a beautiful valley, 
crossing at Fornasette the 

Swiss frontier 3 m. from Luino. 

4Jm. Ponte Tresa, 365 Inhab., is 
named from an old wooden bridge 
which leads rt., across the river 
into Lombardy. [A Swiss toll- 
house at this end, and an Italian 
one at the other.] The village 
stands on a bay of Lago Lugano, 
so completely land-locked as to 
seem a distinct lake. 

Another of the winding reaches 



of the lake stretches N. about half 
a mile on the E. of our road, as 
far as 

Agno, vill., 600 Inhab., placed 3 m. 
at the spot where the Agno, or 
Bedagio, empties itself into the 
lake. 

One of the prettiest scenes on 
this very picturesque road is that 
presented by the village and small 
lake of Muzzano, which lies on 
the 1. of the road to 

Lugano. 4 m. 

Inns: H. du Pare, large, good, and 
well situated on the site of the Con- 
vent of the Angels ; baths in the house. 
The Pension Belvedere, kept by the land- 
lord of the H. du Pare; charges, in 
summer 9 fr. a day, in winter 6 fr.— 
Albergo Svizzero. 

Lugano is the largest of the 3 
chief towns of the canton of Tes- 
sin, 5600 Inhab., and is charm- 
ingly situated on the Lago Lu- 
gano. It is quite an Italian town 
of dirty arcaded streets, but a fine 
broad Quai borders the lake and 
the neighbourhood abounds in the 
luxuriant vegetation of Italy ; and 
numerous villas are scattered 
among vineyards and gardens. 
Climate delicious, fire-flies (Lam- 
pyris Italica) sparkle in the 
night. Church of San Lorenzo is 
on an eminence. View. The 
facade is from a design of Bra- 
mante. Near it a curious bone- 
house. 

Ch. of Santa Maria degli Angioli, 
close to the H. du Pare, b. 1499, 
contains remarkable frescoes by 
Bern. Luini; a Crucifixion of 
many figures covering the Avail 
which divides the choir from the 
body of the ch. It is flanked by 
figures, life-size, of S. Sebastian 
and S. Roch. A Madonna with 
the 2 children, in a side-chapel on 



411 



Me. 115.— 2%e LAKE of LUGANO. 



412 



the rt., is a work of great refine- 
ment. A third fresco is the Last 
Supper, removed from the Kefec- 
toiy. These were almost the last 
works of Luini, d. 1530. The 
Post Office is in the Government 
House {Palazzo Civico) in Keform 
Square, and near it is the Liceo 
(Cantonal College). 

II G lard i no Ciani, on the lake, 
contains " La Dezolazione" a 
statue by Yincenzio Vela, a Swiss 
sculptor, 1852. 

There are large silk factories in 
Lugano, and a transit trade. A 
fair on Oct. 9th. 

English cliurcli-service at the H. du 
Pare. 

Diligence to Bellinzona and Como 
twice a day ; to Luino on Lago Maggiore. 
Steamers on the lake to Porlezza and 
Capo di Lago. 

Excursions. 

Monte Caprino, opposite Lu- 
gano, is penetrated by natural 
grottoes, which are used as cellars 
(Cantine). Small houses are built 
over them ; so that at a distance 
they look like a village. These 
are much resorted to in summer 
on account of their coolness. 

Ascent of Monte Salvadore. — 
From H. du Pare to a turn rt. 
from high road into a char-road 
15 min. ; sharp ascent of 20 min. 
to a bad mule-path; thence 50 
min. to the summit, 2982 ft. This 
mountain forms a promontory into 
the Lake of Lugano. *View over 
numerous other lakes, bounded 
by the snowy Alps. On the sum- 
mit is a pilgrimage chapel. The 
entire excursion takes 3 hrs. good 
walking, or 4 on horseback. The 
charge for a horse or mule is 6 fr., 
but more is often demanded,; and 
a huonamano to the guide is ex- 
pected. 



Lago Lugano (called also Ce- 
resio). Its scenery is exceed- 
ingly beautiful. It is more 
rugged and uncultivated than its 
two neighbours, Como and Mag- 
giore. At the same time it pre- 
sents great variety ; near Lugano 
its shores are as smiling as the 
borders of the Lago di Como; 
its E. bay to Porlezza, has pre- 
cipitous shores, and a dark tint. 
It sends down a S. branch to 
Melide and Capolago, while a 
third branch, curving like a hook, 
strikes N. at the back of M. Sal- 
vadore as far as Agno. 

Steamer from Capolago to Lugano, 
and from Lugano to Porlezza. 

Porlezza, lies within the Italian 9 m. 
frontier. 1 hr. by steamer from 
Lugano, 

Chars may be hired here to go to Me- 
naggio, It is a wall?: of 1\ hrs. (car- 
riage 10 or 12 fr.). 

The road traverses a pretty 
valley, passing rt. the little lake 
of Piano. 

Menaggio (Inn : Corona), a vill. 9 m. 
on the W. shore of the lake of 
Como. 

Instead of stopping at Menagio, it is 
better to proceed to Cadenabbia, or to 
the good Hotel de la Ville de Milan at La 
Majolica (close to which the steamers 
stop), or to cross the lake to Bellaggio 
or Yarenna. 

Lake of Como, called by the 
ancients Lacus Larius (te Lari 
Maxume ! — Virg.), is divided into 
two branches by the promontory 
of Bellaggio ; at the bottom of one 
of these lies Como (Comum\ the 
birthplace of Pliny and Yolta. 
Taken altogether, it surpasses in 
scenery and vegetation every 
other lake in Italy. It was the 



413 



Rte. 115.— LAKE of COMO. 



scene of the scientific researches 
of the elder Pliny, the naturalist. 
Claudian describes the voyage up 
the lake. 

Boats i fr. an hour for each boatman. 
In fine summer weather the winds are 
in variable: from sunrise to 10 or n a 
gentle 1ST. breeze : calm for an hour or 
two till past 12, when a gentle breeze, S., 
or up the lake, rises, and continues till 
sunset, after which a dead calm till sun- 
rise. Boats wait for these winds as a 
river barge waits for tide. The boats are 
not so slow as their appearance would 
lead one to expect. 

For places on the East shore, 
see Ete. 116. The following are 
the places on the WEST SHORE 
and on both sides of the Oomo 
branch of the lake. 

Somas o, opposite to Colico. 
[To Bellinzona in 6 hrs., over the 
Jorio Pass (641 7 ft.)] 

Crravedona, a large vilL with a 
ch. of the 13th cent., containing 
some ancient Christian inscrip- 
tions from an earlier building. 

Eezzonico. The boatmen here 
have the name of being the best 
on the lake. 

Menaggio has been already 
noticed. 

La Majolica 200 yards from the 
steamer's landing-place at Caden- 
abbia (see below), 3 or 4 houses 
close to the lake. The ch. of 
La Madonna di San Martino over- 
hangs the lake. View. 

Cadenabbia (Inns : Belle vue, 
very good; Belle Isle, also well 
spoken of), a place of great resort 
with the Milanese in summer. 
[Close by is the Villa Carhtta, 
formerly Sommariva (belonging 
to the Duke of Meiningen), 



among terraces and myrtle-hedges 
20 ft. high. It contains the 
Amove e Psyche, and other works 
of Canova, and Thorwaldsen's 
grand bas-relief, the Triumph of 
Alexander, executed for Napoleon 
for the Simplon arch at Milan.] 

Opposite to Cadenabbia extends 
the promontory of Bellaggio. 

Bellaggio (Inns: H. Grande 
Bretagne, charming gardens and 
view ; first-rate in comfort (English 
eh.); — H. Genazzini, very good. 
Admitting the beauty of its situa- 
tion, between the 2 arms of the 
lake, this place is pleasanter to 
look at than to look from. Once 
arrived, you are shut in within 
high walls and dusty lanes. You 
cannot stir out with comfort except 
by water. 

Villa Serbelloni. Noble views 
of each of the 3 arms of the lake 
from its terraces and gardens. A 
poor-house. 

Villa Melzi, a charming man- 
sion, chiefly visited for its flower- 
garden, but it contains portraits of 
Napoleon I. and Eugene Beau- 
harnois. 

There are other villas in the 
neighbourhood to which the boat- 
men will take visitors. They all 
have their state-rooms, but are 
principally remarkable for their 
gardens. 

Continuing along the S.W. arm 
of the lake ; the shores are speckled 
with villages and white villas, the 
summer, resort of the Milanese 
gentry during the season of the 
Viiieggiatura. 

In the following paragraphs (E.) and 
( W.) refer to the E. or W. shores. 

(W.) Argegno, at the opening 
of Vol IntelvL [Monte Generoso 
(Rtc. 114) may conveniently be 
ascended.] 



415 



Bte. 116. — CHI A VENN A to LECCO. 



{E.) La Pliniana, so called be- 
cause an intermittent spring, rising 
behind it, is asserted to be trie one 
described by Pliny. It was built 
1570, and now belongs to Prince 
Belgiojoso. Villa Lenno is sup- 
posed to stand on the site of 

(E.) Pliny's Villa, which, from 
its sombre situation, he called Tra- 
gedia ; an opinion confirmed by 
the discovery of broken columns, 
&c, in the lake. 

(E.) Torno, on a projecting point. 
Thenceforward, to Como, villas 
constant ly succeed each other. 
Those of Madame Taglioni, now 
of Prince Trubetzkoi, of Madame 
Pasta the singer, and of Count 
Taverna, are amongst the most 
noticeable. They are accessible 
only by water, or by very rough 
paths. 

(IF.) Cernobbio {Inn: *laKegina 
d' Inghilterra, good, and pleasant 
summer or winter quarters. Near 
it the Villa d'Este, once the resi- 
dence of the Queen Caroline of 
evil repute). [Ascent of Monte 
Bisbino, N., in i\ hrs. View."} 
A good carriage-road to Como, 
passing Villa Baimondi. 

Como. — Inns: Angelo, close to 
the steamboat quay, good ; Italia : 
neither of them comparable to the 
hotel at Cernobbio. See Cathedral 
and Broletta — fine specimens of 
Italian Gothic. (See Handbook 
for North Italy.) Ely. stat. is at 
Camerlata, 1 J m. up hill (omnibus 
in 20 min.). S. Abbondio, 1 m., 
a curious eh. of the 10th centy., 
is well preserved. 



Rte. 116.-chiavenna to 

LECCO. 

CHIAVENNA to Eng. m. 

Eng. m. Varenna . .11 
Riva . . .9 Lecco . . 15 
Colico. . . 9 

A diligence leaves Chiavenna £ hr. after 
midnight, and reaches Lecco about 7 ; 
from thence it goes on to the rly. stat, at 
Monza, arriving in time for the train 
which reaches Milan at 10 o'clock. There 
is also an omnibus from Chiavenna to 
meet the lake steamer at Colico. 

The high-road from the Spliigen 
towards Milan runs through the 
valley of the Mdira, and thence 
along the E. shore of the L. of 
Como to Lecco. 

Below Chiavenna (Ete. 87) the 
valley of the Maira is flat and 
marshy till it reaches 

Riva, near the N. extremity of 9 
the Lago Mezzola, called also 
Lago di Eiva. It is walled in by 
mts. of peculiar outline. Their 
sides are furrowed with ravines. 
The engineers who constructed 
the capital road (1835) na d great 
difficulty with the debris at their 
mouths. The delta of the Adda , 1., 
is a plain of morass. The cause- 
way stretches across it, passing the 
Adda upon a long wooden bridge. 
Near the centre of the plain the 
road to the Stelvio branches off on 
the 1. (see Handbook for South 
Germany). The Spanish Fort 
Fuentes, built 1603, as the key of 
the Valteline, is left on the rt., 
and the Lake of Como is reached 
at 



417 



Rte. 117.— ARONA to VARALLO. 



418 



9 m. Colico ( Inns : All' Isola Bella 
and Angelo, are poor, and not 
clean), a vill. under Monte Leg- 
none. It is less unwholesome 
than formerly. 

Steamboats from Como 3 times a day, to 
Colico in hrs. Boats may at all times 
be hired here, but they are dear. 

[Ascent of the Mte. Legnone 
(about 8600 Eng. ft.), the highest 
mtn. on the lake. View of the 
grandest order.] 

7Jm. Bellano, at the mouth of the 
Pioverna: 500 ft. above it, is the 
Hydropathic Establishment of Re- 
goledo, said to be well conducted. 
[To Lecco in 6 or 7 hrs., up the 
beautiful Vol Sassina, passing 
Introbbio (tolerable Inn). ] 

Si m. Varenna (Inns : *Albergo Reale, 
on lake, good and clean), the best 
stopping-place on the E. side of 
the lake. Visit the Galleries in 
the rock over the Stelvio Road. 
Walks up the mountain behind to 
— a. the Castle — b. Perleda — and 
c. along the brow of the hill to 
the Cascade Fiume de Latte — ex- 
tensive View. 

[Ascent of the Grigna or Monte 
Codine (7936 ft.) over the Lago di 
Lecco. It is scarcely possible to 
find the way oneself. The best 
plan is to go first to Esine vill., 
and inquire for a shepherd-boy, 
who knows the mountain, and will 
serve as guide. Beautiful and 
wild scenery on the way to the 
summit. Food must be taken, as 
none will be found, and it is not 
too much to allow 13 or 14 hrs., 
inclusive of stoppages. An easier 
but less interesting ascent is from 
near Introbbio. It would be best 
to ascend from Introbbio, and de- 
scend to Varenna ; but it would 
not be easy to find a guide ao- 
Kp. Switz. 



quainted with both sides of the 
mountain.] 

Lake of Lecco is far wilder and 
more rugged than the rest of the 
L. of Como. 

Lecco. (Inns : Alb. d ! Italia ; 15 m. 

Angelo) (see Handbook for 
Northern Italy.) 



Rte. 117.-AE0NA to VA- 
RALLO, in the VAL SESIA. 



ARONA to 

Eng. m. 
Borgomanero 6 
Romagnano 7^ 



Eng. m. 
Borgo Sesia . 7i 
Varallo . . 6 



5 hrs. drive. Omnibus daily. 6 m. 
From Arona (Rte. in). 

Borgomanero is a well-built 7^ m. 
town in the direct road to Ver- 
celli. 

Romagnano, a little town on 
the Sesia (Inn : La Posta), by an 
excellent road. Here Bayard — 
sans peur et sans reproche — re- 
ceived his death-wound while pro*-- 
tecting the rear of the French 
under Bonnivet in their retreat 
across the Alps, April 20, 1524. 

From Romagnano the road up 
the Val Sesia is singularly beau- 
tiful ; — wooded slopes, castles, 
churches, and oratories. The ve- 
getation is most luxuriant, 
l' 



419 Bte. 118. — BAVENO to VABALLO. 420 



7jm. Borgo Sesia; here the valley 
narrows. 

6 m. Varallo. (Inns : Albergo d' Ita- 
lia, good; *La Poste, fine view, 
equally good; Falcone Nero, an 
Italian trattoria.) There is need 
of many inns for the pilgrim 
visitors. 

* Sacr o Monte is the great object 
of attraction. It rises immedi- 
ately above the town, and is 
reached by a paved path, which 
winds np the hill, and offers beau- 
tiful Views from every turn. 

Ch. of S. Francisco, at the foot 
of the S. Monte ; pictures by Gau- 
denzio Ferrari. They are among 
his best works. 

On the hill of the Sacro Monte 
is a series of 46 chapels, contain- 
ing groups of figures the size of 
life, modelled in terra-cotta, painted 
and clothed. They represent 
events in the history of Christ, in 
the order of their occurrence. 
They are never entered ; the sub- 
jects grouped within them are seen 
from peep-holes in front, like those 
in raree-shows. A few contain 
works by Gaudenzio and his 
pupils, of high merit. Note es- 
pecially — 1 . The Fall of Man . n. 
Murder of the Innocents. 17. 
The Transfiguration. *38. The 
Crucifixion. 40. The Pieta. 

The valleys of the Novarrese, 
of which Val Sesia is the principal, 
are remarkable for the number of 
painters they have produced, and 
the names of many are preserved 
here as contributors to the em- 
bellishment of this singular sanc- 
tuary. 

The Sacro Monte originated in 
the piety of the blessed (i. e. half- 
saint) Bernardino Cainio, or Caloto, 
a noble Milanese, who obtained in 
i486, from Pope Innocent VIII., 
a faculty to found this sanctuary. 



2 visits of St. Carlo Borromeo, 
in 1578 and 1584, brought it 
into notice as a pilgrimage. The 
pallet bedstead, upon which this 
patron saint of Milan died, is pre- 
served here as a holy relic for the 
veneration of tbe faithful. 

At the entrance to the Oratories 
are booths for the sale of cor one, 
i. e. sanctified beads, crucifixes, 
madonnas, &c, 

Convent, where the priests re- 
side, commands views of Varallo 
and the Val Sesia below the town. 

The population of the Val Sesia 
is about 35,000 ; most of the men 
leave the valley and find employ- 
ment elsewhere as masons, build- 
ers, &c. 

There is good trout-fishihg in 
the river. Many excursions, chiv- 
ing and walking, from Varallo. 

[At the Ponte della Gula, about 
1 hr.'s walk up the Val Masta- 
lone, the green river is hemmed 
in by vertical rocks 1 5 o ft. high, 
and spanned by a bridge. A good 
carriage-road goes to the village of 
Ferrera. {See Rte. 123.)] 

Omnibus twice daily, Varallo to No- 
vara Junct. Stat, of rlys. to Turin, Milan, 
and Genoa. 



Ete. 118. -BAVENO to VA- 
RALLO, by the LAKE of 
ORTA, or by VAL STRONA. 

a. BAVENO— ascent of Monte Hrs. 

Motterone (bridle) . . . 3i 
Orta „ . . . . 2£ 

b. BAVENO to m. 

Gravellona (carriage) . . 4£ 
Omegna „ . . 4 

Orta „ . . 7 



421 Bte. 118. —MO TTEE ONE — LAG 0 B'OBTA. 422 



The lake of Orta may be reached from 
Baveno (Rte. in), or Gravellona on the 
Simplon, in a carriage, and by rly. from 
JNovara and Gozzano. 

For the pedestrian, the most agree- 
able way is to combine the journey 
with the ascent of the Motterone, famed 
for its lovely panorama, and descending 
from thence to Orta, a walk or ride of 
6% hrs. Asses (bad ones) are kept for 
the ascent. No provisions to be had en 
route, except milk. A guide is desirable. 
If on foot, take a boy for i hr. at least, 
to show the way through the network of 
walled lanes between fields and gardens, 
above Baveno. 

1). By the carriage-road to Omegna, at 
the N. end of the lake. From Omegna to 
Orta there is a good road along the E. 
shore of the lake. A boat with one rower 
costs 2 fr. 

Bridle-path from Baveno by the 
Motterone, passes through chest- 
nut woods, and then is carried over 
a neck of the nit. a long way below 
the summit (5100 ft.), which is 
reached by a climb of i\ hr. 
extra up the grassy slope. At the 
base of the ascent are dairy-farms, 
under noble sycamores (Alpe 
della Valpe, a chalet Inn), where 
cream can be had ; 2| hrs. to 
descend to Orta. Say 7 hrs. from 
Baveno to Orta, enjoying the view. 

View, one of the most extensive 
S. of the Alps, though Mt. Blanc, 
the Combin, and the Cerviu, are 
hidden by the hills of Val Sesia 
and by Mte. Rosa. The latter ap- 
pears to great advantage. Farther 
E. rise the peaks of the Bernardin 
and Spliigen passes, and in the 
further distance the mass of the 
Bernina Alps. 5 lakes are below 
— Maggiore, Orta, Monate, Co- 
mabbio, and Varese ; and farther 
to the rt. the great plain of Lom- 
bardy is studded with villages, 
with Milan distinctly visible in 
the centre. The Sesia and the 
Ticino traverse the dark plain 
like silver ribbons. The distant 
Apennines close the panorama to 
the S. On the descent you pass 



the chs. of Madonna di Lucciago, 
Ohieggeno, Armeno, and Miasino, 
beyond which you strike the high 
road. The Sacro Monte may be 
visited before entering 

Orta (Inns : *Albergo San 
Giulio, very good and comfort- 
able ; Leone d'Oro, also a good 
little inn, situated at the water's 
edge). This town is delightfully 
placed on the lake, wedged in 
between the water and the hill, 
so that the walks are always up 
or down hill. The facilities for 
fishing, boating, and bathing offer 
inducements for a short stay. 

Monte Sacro, on the summit of 
a lofty promontory projecting into 
the lake, is a sanctuary, dedicated 
to St.Francis of Assisi, approached 
by 22 chapels or oratories, like 
those of Varallo (Rte. 117). At 
least 7 of the groups are works of 
art, representing events of his 
life, in fresco and terracotta. 
The views from it are of singular 
beauty. The walks are shaded 
with fine trees. The magnolia 
and cactus are seen growing in 
the open air. Aug. 2 to 9 is a 
grand fete. 

Isola di San Giulio lies between 
Orta and Pell a. The oh. and 
village cover the rock. Church, 
chiefly modernised, was built on 
the dwelling of San Giulio, in 
the 4th centy. Here the vertebra 
of a whale, said to have been a 
serpent destroyed by the saint, is 
shown as a relic. It contains a 
mosaic and frescoes by P. Ti- 
baldi ; a side chapel, painted by 
Gaudenzio Ferrari; the chief 
subject, the Virgin and Child 
enthroned. 

It was the plan of General 
Chasseloup to continue the Sim- 
plon route along the lake of Orta ; 
but tho difference of level — Orta 
p 2 



423 Bte. 118.— BAVENO to VARALLO. 



424 



being 500 ft. higher than lake 
Maggiore — was in favour of the 
line by Baveno. 

Omnibus to Arona by Buccione to 
Gozzano Stat., whence rly. trains to 
Novara in li hr., whence Turin, Genoa, 
or Milan are comfortably reached on the 
same day. 

Orta to Varallo. 

a. ORTA to 

Pella (boat, 2 frs. 2 rowers) i hr. 
Varallo 4£ hrs. 



b. ORTA to 

Omegna (boat or road) . 7 miles. 
Fobello (horse) . . . ? 8 hrs. 
Varallo (char) ... 12 miles. 

a. By Pella on the Lake of 
Orta. **Cannot be too highly 
recommended. 

Pella, on the W. shore, near the 
Isola Giulio. Mules or asses may 
be hired for crossing the Col di 
Colma to Varallo, 4^ hrs. ; a ride 
of great interest, from its beautiful 
views. A steep path leads up to 
Arola amid vines, figs, gourds, 
and fruit-trees. Views looking 
back upon the La go d' Orta are 
superb. Magnificent forest-trees 
and granite rocks. The path 
continues through beautiful park- 
like scenery, and then opens upon 
the Col di Colma, a bushy com- 
mon. Wide and pleasing Vieivs 
of the lakes of Orta, Maggiore, 
and the plains of Lombardy, and, 
towards the Alps, of Monte Rosa. 

Descent on the other side is not 
less beautiful. The Val Sesia is 
seen in the deep distance, richly 
wooded and studded with churches 
and villages : the path leads down 
through pastoral scenes, then en- 
ters a ravine, where there are 
quarries (formerly worked for the 
buildings of Varallo), buried in a 



forest of walnut and chestnut- 
trees. Issuing from this, the tra- 
veller shortly finds himself at 
Rocco, 1 m. from 

Varallo (see Rte. 117). 

[A shorter road turns rt. about 
150 yards beyond the top of the 
Col, leaving Rocco on the 1., and 
joins the old road about J m. from 
Varallo.] 



b. Orta to Varallo, by Omegna and 
Val Strona. 

This is a great circuit, but worth 
the extra labour. From Omegna 
the distance might be accom- 
plished in one day, but it is better 
to sleep at Fobello. (Good coun- 
try Inn.) 

Omegna ( Inn : indiiferent, and 
charges high), at the N". end of the 
lake of Orta, by the Strona tor- 
rent. The Val Strona is a glen 
clothed with forest trees and va- 
ried vegetation. A paved path 
ascends the valley, which winds 
much, and at every turn presents 
new pictures. After passing the 
villages of Strona and For no, the 
last in the valley, is reached 

Campello (bad quarters), a 
charming situation. Here com- 
mences the ascent (no difficulty) 
of 

Col di Campello (about 6000 
ft. ?). Monte Rosa, whose 8 sum- 
mits, rising like turrets from the 
prodigious wall which forms its 
eastern face, presents one of the 
grandest of views. 

Descent steep to 

Rimella, a German village in 
the Val Mastalone. Accommoda- 



425 Bte. 119.— VABALLO to ALAGNA. 426 



Varallo (Ete. 117). 

Omnibus daily to Mollia. 

The villages of Bdlmuccia and 
Scopa {Inn, clean) are passed. 



tion may be had here, but it is 
better to push on to 

Fobello (good country Inn, H. 
d'ltalie). The route from thence 
to Varallo is given in Ete. 123. 

c. Omegna to Varallo by Monte 
Mazzucone. 

This is a route of 6 hrs. It 
passes 

Quarna, vill., and thence over 

Monte Mazzucone. This is a 
somewhat enlarged edition of Mt. 
Motterone (Rte. 118), and lies 
nearer to Monte Eosa, but is not 
so centrally placed in regard to 
the lakes. 

Camasco vill., and on to Va- 
rallo. 



Ete. 119. - VARALLO to 
ALAGNA. — The VAL SESIA. 

VARALLO to Hrs. Eng.m. 

Mollia (good char-road) 6 . 18 
Alagna (bridle-path) . 2£ . 74- 

Mules may be had at Mollia. A side- 
saddle can be found at Varallo, but not 
farther up the valley. 

The Val Scsia is less rugged 
than the neighbouring valleys, 
but finely wooded and pleasing. 
Val Sermenta, called also Val Pic- 
cola, opens on tli e rt. 



Scopello (Inn ; indifferent, 11 m. 
charges extortionate). Copper 
smel ting-houses ; 5 o tons are raised 
annually at Alagna. 



Mollia (a clean little Inn), 7 m. 

Riva (Inn, Pietre Gemelle, small 6 m. 
but fair) ; the chief of the high 
villages in the valley ; picturesque 
from a distance, but poor and com- 
fortless. 

Church will surprise the tra- 
veller by its decoration and the 
real talent with which it is painted 
within and without, chiefly by one 
of the numerous painters whom 
the Val Sesia has produced — • 
— Tanzio, or Antonio d' Enrico, a 
native of Alagna. The external 
paintings are fresh, though they 
have been exposed to the weather 
more than 200 years. 

Vievj of Monte Eosa from Eiva 
is sublime; its masses, clothed in 
glaciers, close the head of the Val 
Sesia. 

Alagna, a poor place, but agree- 2 m. 
ably situated. ( Inn ; H. de Monte 
Eosa, fair, and civil people, is the 
best in the Val Sesia.) 

For passes and excursions from 
Alagna, see Ete. 124. 



Chars from Varallo to Scopello, 7^ fr. ; 
2 hrs. 

There is not much variation 
in the scenery, though the whole 
is pleasing. The route passes 
Piode (no Inn) Campertogno, and 



427 



Ate. 121.— VOGOGNA to MACUGNAGA. 



428 



Rte. 121.-V0G0GNA to MA- 
CUGNAGA, by the VAL 
ANZASCA. 

VOGOGNAto Hrs. Eng.m. 

Ponte Grande . . . 3 . 9 

, Vanzone § . 2 

Macugnaga . . . . 3k • *° 
Good carriage-road from Vogogna, by 
Pie" di Mulera to Ceppo Morelli ; to be 
continued to Macugnaga. 
Char-road to Borca, hrs. 
Thence to Macugnaga, bridle-path. In 
descending the valley the journey takes 6 
hrs. 

There is difficulty in obtaining mules 
in the upper part of the Val Anzasca. 
They are to be had at Ponte Grande. 

There are some advantages 
in taking this and the follow- 
ing routes from the Swiss 
side. It is more practicable for 
ladies to cross the Moro from Saas 
than from Macugnaga, as in that 
case they may ride very nearly 
to the top of the pass. The views 
also are finer, and the fatigue 
less. 

Val Anzasca leads direct to 
Monte Eosa, which is constantly 
before you as you ascend : it com- 
bines all that is most lovely 
in Italian, with all that is 
most grand in Swiss scenery. 
It is a Ghamouny, of which the 
sides are covered with vines, 
figs, chestnuts, and walnuts, with 
the sky of Italy above, and the 
architecture of Italy around. 

Travellers going S. from Domo d'Ossola 
to Val Anzasca turn out of the Simplon 
rd. i m. S. of Pallanzeno ; whence a road 
runs direct to Pie de Mulera. Those going 
N. follow the Simplon i m. N. of Vogogna, 
where it crosses the Tosa on a bridge 
just above the junction of the Anza. j 



Vogogna (Rte. in), on the 
Simplon high-road, 9 m. below 
Domo d"Ossola, and 15 m. above 
Baveno. Pedestrians may cross 
the Tosa in a ferry to Pie di 
Mulera. 

Pie de Mulera ( Inn : Croce 3 m. 
Rossa), the first village in the 
Val Anzasca. Mules and chars. 
Here lives the receiver of the 
gold and other mines situated 
near the head of the valley. 

The road ascends along the 
vine-clad slopes, and is carried 
through two short tunnels. Noble 
view over Val d'Ossola and up 
towards Monte Eosa, which soon 
comes into sight. 

Castiglione (Inn: Au Rameau). 3 m. 
\Calasca is left to the rt. (Inn: 
tolerable). Near it a pretty water- 
fall.] 

Ponte Grande (Albergo al4 m. 
Ponte Grande, clean, comfortable, 
and reasonable; trout good, ex- 
cellent head - quarters. Mules. 
This is the chief place in the 
Val Anzasca, in a beautiful posi- 
tion at the junction of Val Olloccia 
with the Anza. Bridge across the 
Anza. 

Vanzone (Inn : H. des Chas- 2} m. 

seurs, kept by Albasini, has only 
one decent bedroom and one 
common room.) 500 Inhab. .2 
Churches. View from terrace in 
front of the ch. above the town. 
Here and elsewhere in Val An- 
zasca note the neat dress of the 
women, the general cleanhness 
and independence of the people, 
and the rareness of goitre. 



Gruppo (vill.). 
tree. 



A fine lime- 



429 Mte. 121.— VOGOGNA to MACTJGNAGA. 430 



lm. Ceppo Morelli (Inn, H. des 
Alpes, improved in the hands of 
Gugliemini. Curious bridge, very 
steep, springing on one side 
from a boulder-stone. Bridle-rd. 
begins. 

A little way above this is one of 
the finest views, whence the vast 
height of Monte Kosa may be fully 
appreciated. 

J m. Prequartero. [Path, rt. by Pre- 

benone to the Saas Thai nearer 
than the Moro, but without its 
views of Monte Kosa. The guides 
take it as a short cut in return- 
ing.] 

A spur from the Monte della 
Caccia, 1., here divides Yal An- 
zasca, from Yal Macugnaga or 
Pestarena. Above this German 
prevails, below it Italian. 

Campiole. The river is crossed 
to the rt. bank, and then a steep 
ascent over a rocky barrier (called 
Morgen). The road next descends 
rapidly, and returns to the 1. bank 
by the Ponte del Yalt. 

lhr. Pestarena (Alb. dei Minieri, 
tolerable, rough accommodation, 
but civil people, and moderate). 
Mines of gold, worked by an 
English company, silver, and 
copper. The gold is combined 
with (pyrites) sulphuret of iron. 
Annual produce 1 700 oz. 

The road ascends steeply, pass- 
ing the adits of many mines; it 
is crossed by mountain-torrents, 
which cut it up or cover it with 
rubbish. 

j hr. Borca (or Borgo), vill. (No 
good Inn here. * View of Monte 
Rosa. 

[To Alagna and the Yal 
Sesia, L, by Col de Turlo (Rtc. 
134).] 



Macugnaga (Zum Stricli), 51154 
ft. {Inns: H. du Mont Moro, kept 
by Gaspard, best, very fair ; Osteria 
di Monte Rosa, by Franz Lochmat- 
ter, a large house and improved ; 
kindly people.) It stands in a 
grassy plain, round which rise in 
a semicircle the grand and almost 
precipitous bases of the Monte 
Rosa chain. Macugnaga is pro- 
perly the name of a commune 
composed of the scattered hamlets 
Borca, In der Stapf, Zum Strich, 
Auf der Rive, and Zertannen, 
stretching up to the glaciers. 
Curious ancient Church, with a 
lime-tree beside it. 

Mules are not to be had here, but 
must be ordered from Ponte Grande. 

The best mountaineer here is Franz 
Lochmatter, landlord of the Monte Eosa 
inn. There are several guides competent 
for the Monte Moro. 

Above the village, the river 
Anza issues out of a grand arch 
of ice in the glacier of Monte 
Rosa. 

Monte Rosa is by no means a 
single summit, but a union of two 
ridges, crossing each other at rt. 
angles. Its ground-plan resembles 
a + • The valleys are named in 
this table : — ■ 

Zermatt \ Macugnaga 

Gressonayt"Y. Sesia. 

The 4 principal summits are 
ranged on the north ray of the 
cross. They are all visible from 
Macugnaga. Reckoning from 
the 1. or S., 1. Signed Kuppe ; 
2. Zumstein Spitze ; 3. a tre- 
mendous rocky tooth, the Hochste 
Spitze, or highest point, 15,223 
ft. : and 4. No rd End. The differ- 
ence in height of these four sum- 
mits is little more than 200 ft. from 
the highest to .the lowest. {See 
also Rte. 127.) 



431 



Rte. 121 . — MA C UGNAGA . 



432 




En, 
null 
111 it^ 

Macusrna&'a 



Excursion to Macugnaga Glacier. 

Mule-path to JBelvidere, i£ hr. there 
and 1 1 hr. back. No one should omit 
this part of the excursion, easy for ladies 
on mule-back. On foot the rest of the 
way. Kefer to map. 

Ascend the valley, cross the 
Anza, and monnt the wooded 
hill (an old moraine), called Bel- 
videre, which divides the great 
glacier into two ice-streains. This 
is one of the finest views. 



From the Belvidere, cross the 
north arm of the glacier to the 
chalets of Jazi ; no danger, and 
little difficulty. Thence up the 
valley to the chalets of Filar, just 
below the Old Weiss Tlior Pass. 

Thence ascend the moraine, 
enter upon the great glacier, and 
I proceed towards the head of the 
valley. This is difficult, the ice 
being crevassed ; but, with a good 
guide, there is no danger, even to 
the inexperienced. The glacier 



433 Bie. 1 22.—MA CUGNAGA 



to VISP—MTK MORO. 434 



soon becomes more even, and may 
be pursued as far as agreeable. 
A convenient goal is a waterfall, 
into a great chasm in the ice. 
Here the observer is in the midst 
of a vast amphitheatre, whose 
snow-clad walls are formed of 
some of the highest mts. in Eu- 
rope. 

Leave the Glacier on its E., 
and descend the moraine to the 
chalets of Pedriolo, near which 
may be seen enormous fragments 
of fallen rock ; one is 5 00 ft. in cir- 
cumf, 120 ft. high. 

From Pedriolo return along the 
rocks on the S. of the valley, 
often at a height ; thence a steep 
and intricate descent to Macug- 
naga. 

This excursion presents finer 
scenes than any of the views of 
Mont Blanc. 

[From Macugnaga to Zermatt, 
by the New Weiss Thor Pass 
( Etc. 127). Another pass, the Old 
Weiss Thor, was formerly used, 
but abandoned owing to changes 
in rock and glacier. It has lately 
been re-explored, but it is difficult, 
and has no peculiar merits.] 



Ete. 122.— MACUGNAGA to 
VISP, by the MONTE MORO 
and SAAS. 



MACUGNAGA 
to Mrs. 
Summit of 

Moro Pass . 4 
Mattmarksec . 2 



Saas . 
Stalden , 
Visp 



Hrs. 
. il 



Ladies can ride nearly to its top from 
the N. side, but not from the S. Chaises 
a porteurs (5 porters) can be had at 
Macugnaga. 

The pass of the Moro is best 
seen coming S. from Saas. It is far 
grander than any of the bridle- 
passes, and is fortunately within 
the scope of moderate walkers. It 
used formerly to be passable by 
horses. 



Macugnaga (Ete. 121). 

Ascent is abrupt ; the pasturages 
are soon attained ; and thence all 
the masses of Monte Kosa open to 
the view; from its peaks, still 
thousands of feet above, to the 
basin of Macugnaga, now thou- 
sands of feet below. In the opi- 
nion of many, this is the grandest 
scene that the Alps afford. From 
the high pasturages, the path tra- 
verses a stony and barren slope to 
the snow which it is necessary to 
cross. 

Summit (939° ft.), marked 3} hrs. 
by a cross. Scene of sterility to- 
wards the Valais. 

[From the rocks behind the 
wooden cross, view of Monte Eosa 
on one hand, and of the whole 
extent of the Saas valley on the 
other. Ascend 1 hr. the summit 
E. of the pass, called Joderhorn 
(9941 ft.) View over the plain of 
N. Italy and the southern ranges 
of the Alps.] 

The pass of the Moro, and an- 
other across the glaciers on the rt. 
into the Val Antrona, are men- 
tioned in a record, dated 1440, as 
' 1 fort vieux passages. ' ' Great ex- 
penses were incurred in 1724, and 
again in 1 790, to restore them ; but 
the repairs were soon destroyed by 
avalanches. 

[A pass at the E. foot of the 



435 Bte. 122. — MACTJGNAGA to VISP. 436 



Joderhorn leads direct to Prequa- 
tero, Ete. 1 2 1 

Descent to Saas is easy and 
pleasant. There is a steep bed of 
snow crossed at first, but after- 
wards a gentle fall the whole way 
to Visp : 1. rises the snowy Saas- 
grat, separating the valley of Saas 
from that of Zerinatt. The path 
soon reaches the ancient paved 
road. Its lower portion is de- 
stroyed by the masses of rock, 
which have fallen from the preci- 
pices above. 

The path now winds down a 
vast talus of debris to the pastur- 
ages of 

1 hr. Telliboden. 

It is possible to ride up here from Saas. 

J hr. Chalets of Bistel furnish milk, 
cheese, and eggsj but they are 
deserted early in the autumn. 

[A difficult path crosses the 
mts. into Vol Antrona, a valley 
that debouches into Yal d'Ossola.] 
The path now continues on the 
rt. branch of the stream to a dreary 
dirty lake called the 

| ln\ Mattmarksee (Inn cheerless, 
but clean). This is a very con- 
venient stopping-place for those 
approaching the Monte Moro from 
the N". ; also for the Weiss Thor or 
the Acller Pass, and for the ascent 
of the Strahlhorn. The Allalein 
glacier dams the valley, and the 
Mattmarksee accumulates behind 
it. 

From this barrier the path lies 
down the still sterile valley. 

1| hr. Zurmegern, or Zurmkran [pass 
to Antrona\. Through, a few 
stunted larches and pines to 

I hr. Almagell. A rugged path leads 



down by a hamlet; and the 
traveller passes under Mont Fee, 
whose bright snows, above a forest 
of pines, are singularly beautiful. 

Sass, or Im Grund, the prin- 1 nr « 

cipal commune of the valley 
(Inns: H. du Mont Moro, best, 
clean, but cuisine defective ; H. du 
Mont Eosa). 

Saas is a good resting-place, 
and is now frequented by tourists. 
The parish priest, Hen* Imseng, 
has acquired an almost European 
reputation for his mountaineering 
skill and information. He lives 
in the H. du Mont Eosa. Franz 
Andermatten, Moritz Zurbriicken, 
and Joseph Venetz are good 
guides. 

Iu approaching the Moro from the side 
of Saas it is possible to ride as far as 
Telliboden, i hr. below the top, and 
4£ hrs. above Saas, or i hr. above the 
Mattmarksee. It is better to sleep at the 
Mattmarksee, 5+ hrs. are required from 
Saas to the top. 

Saas stands on green meadows. 
The view of the mountain giants 
which smTOund it is intercepted 
by the lower ranges at their base. 
[Ascend (mule -path) by the Calva- 
rienberg to the upland valley of Fee. 
Its head is a cirque of glaciers. The 
peaks are the AUaleinhorn, Alphu- 
bel ; two Miscliabelhorner, Tdscli- 
horn, and the Bom. The height 
of the latter is 900 ft. more than 
the Finster-Aarhorn ; it is the 
highest mountain in Switzerland 
proper. It was first ascended in 
1858 by the Eev. LI. Davies. In 
the midst of the glaciers is a green 
island, called the Gletssher Alp, 
2 hrs. from Saas. It is a pasture 
in summer, when it is a perfect 
garden of wild flowers. It may 
usually be reached without cross- 
ing the glacier; but the path 



437 Bte. 123.— VARALIO 



to the VAL ANZASCA. 438 



should not be attempted without 
a good guide.] 

[Passes. — The Adler Joch and 
the Allalein Pass to Zermatt."} 

East of Saas, the main chain 
comprehends the Fletschorn and 
Weissmies, both exceeding 13,000 
ft. in height. 

[Passes. — a. N. of Fletschorn to 
the Simplon road, between the 
village and the hospice ; b. up the 
Almagell valley by S. of Weismies 
to Gondo ; c. up the Furgge Thai 
to Val Antrona. This used, like 
the Moro, to be a mule-road. N. 
of Ool ascend the Latelhorn; 
superb view. Horses to ij.hr. of 
top.] 

From Sass, by Stalden, to Visp, 5 hrs., 
is a good bridle-path. 

Below Saas the valley closes in 
and forms a defile, which enlarges 
into a little plain by 

1 hi'. Balen, a vill. at the foot of the 
Balfrin snow-peak. The valley 
again becomes a gorge, and the 
path mounts high above the tor- 
rent. Many wooden crosses, the 
memorials of accident from snow, 
are passed. 

lhr. Huteck (Inn). At the junction 
with the Zermatt valley the path 
crosses its river, and immediately 
reaches 

ljhr. Stalden, 4jm. above 

l|hr. Visp {see Rtes. 59 and 127). 



Rte. 123.-VAKALL0 to the 
VAL ANZASCA, by the VAL 
MASTALONE, or by VAL 
SEEMENTA. 

There are 3 rtes., all preferable to the 
pass of the Tuiio (Rte. 124), namely : — 

a. By Val Mastalone and the Barranca. 
1). By Yal Sesia to Carcoforo. Thence 

1. Col d'Egua. 

2. Bochetta di Carcoforo. 

a. Up Val Mastalone, and over 
the Barranca Pass. 

Char-road to Fobello. Mules can be 
taken, but hardly used for the descent. 
A guide is wanted. 

The scenery for the entire dis- 
tance, is exquisite. The vegetation 
is even richer than in Val Sesia. 
The chestnut woods are abundant, 
and the streams of an aqua-marine 
green. Good trout fishing. 

Varalio (Ete. 117). 

Ferrer a. Valley divides [rt. 9 J m. 
to Bimella, Rte. 118] ; 1. to 

Fobello (good country Inn, 1 J m. 
H. d'ltalie). This valley is the 
cradle of cooks, who migrate hence 
over Europe. The upper end of 
Val Mastalone is rather bare ; the 
Barranca Pass is steep, and not 
free from difficulty. 

Summit (5740 ft.). A small 4 hrs. 
oratory. View is not better from 
the tempting hill, 1. of Col [1. to 
Col d'Egua]. 

Descent is abrupt. * Views of 
Val Anzasca and Monte Rosa. 
Through Banio vill. to 



439 



Rte. 124:.— MACUGNAGA to ALAGNA. 



440 



3hrs. Ponte Grande (Kte. 121). 

b. From Varallo, up Yal Sesia, 
by char-road to 

6 J hrs. Balmuccia, vill. ; thence rt., 
up the tributary Val Sermenta 
(or Val Piccola) to 

6 m. Rimasco, chief vill. Inn toler- 
able. Char-road ends. Valley 
divides [1. through grand sceneiy 
to the Germ. vill. of Eirna, whence 
2 or 3 passes lead to Alagna, and 
another track to the Turlo pass, 
near its summit ; see Kte. 124.] 

Our rte. follows the rt. branch. 
The valley becomes more open. 

1 J hr. Carcoforo {Inn not very bad). 
The last village. Hence 2 rtes. to 
Val Anzasca. 

1. Steep and continuous ascent 

to 

2 hrs. Col d'Egua(7o6oft.). Grand 
view, like that from Col di Cam- 
pello (Ete. 118). Rapid descent 
over rough ground. 

Oratory at the 

I hr. Summit of Barranca Pass (a. 

above). 

3 hrs. Ponte Grande. 

2. Steep ascent to 

3 hrs. Bocchetta di Carcoforo. Mag- 
nificent view of Monte Rosa 
and the Saas Grat. Descend 
along a slope until an old mine 
(gold?) is reached. Thence into 
the short 

Val Quarazzola, a branch of 
Val Quarazza, down which is the 
path from the Turlo. The guides 
usually descend to Borca, but it 



is unnecessary, as there is a 
shorter track, by the S. side of the 
Anza, to 

Macugnaga. 3 h: 



Rte. 124.— MACUGNAGA to 
ALAGNA, by the TURLO 
PASS, and thence to GRES- 
SONAY, by the COL D'OLLEN 
or the COL DI VAL DOBBIA. 

MACUGNAGA (Rte. 122) to Hrs. 
Alagna (by Turlo) 8 



Hrs 

Cold'Ollen. . 4 
Gressonay . . 4 



Hrs. 

ColV. Dobbia. 4f 
Gressonay . . 2 



Macugnaga to Alagna by the 
Turlo Pass is fatiguing. The 
regular track commences at Borca, 1 
but there is a short cut from Yal 
Quarazza. The lower part of that 
valley is pleasing. 

From Macugnaga (Ete. 122). 

Base of a rocky range which 1 J 
heads the valley. In the intervals 
between the out-croppings of bare 
rock, are rhododendrons and other 
shrubs. It is prudent to keep to 
the ill-marked track, but in de- 
scending on this side, the moun- 
taineer will make short work of 
these slopes. Towards the summit 
are slopes of snow, tiresome to 
mount, but easy to descend. 



441 Bte. 124:.— ALAGNA— GBE8S0NAY. 442 



31irs. Turlo Pass (9141 ft.), marked 
by a cross. It is the prolongation 
of a spur from the Signal Kuppe. 
From rocks S.E. of the cross, View 
towards Lago Maggiore; the 
higher summits of Monte Kosa 
are not visible. The track is now 
better marked. It winds round 
the N. of a hollow filled with 
snow, and continues S., in places 
over debris, where it is easily lost. 
It then bears W. to a group of 
miserable chalets, beyond which 
is the descent to 

2 J hrs. Val Sesia, which is reached 
at a 

Bridge. 

lhr. Alagna (Hotel: Monte Rosa, 
good and clean; civil people). 
Though close to magnificent 
scenery, there is no view of the 
peaks of Monte Rosa. Unreason- 
able demands for guides and mules. 

Excursions. — Pile Alp to the 
N.N.W., ii hr. *View of S.E. 
of Monte Rosa. To ridge N. of 
the Val di Bours, 1 \ hr. farther. 

Alagna is the meeting-place of 
many mountain routes. [To Va- 
rallo (Rte. 119). ToValAnzasca 
either by the Col di Moud, or the , 
Col di Bima, both leading to 
Rima, in the W. branch of the 
Val Sermenta. The first, though 
unfrequented, is beautiful and 
easy; it takes 4 J hrs. — 2 J to the 
top, if to descend. 2 hrs. below 
Rima is Rimasco (Rte. 123).] 

Alagna to Gressonay. 

a. Bad mule-path over Col d'Ollen. 

b. I^asy mule-path over Col di Val 
Dobbia. 

a. By Col d'Ollen. Difficult 
mule-path, especially near top. 
Views far preferable to b. 



Alagna ; ascent begins at once. 

Col d'Ollen, 9553 ft. [Ascend 4 hrs. 
Gemstein, rt., J hr. * View. 2 Mag- 
nificent Views of head of Lysthal 
and its glaciers during the descent. 
At the Gabiet See there are cha- 
lets (milk). 

Trinita in the Lysthal. Down 2 J hrs. 
the valley to 

Gressonay. 

b. By Col di Val Dobbia, easy 1 J hr. 
mule-path. 

Alagnao, Down the valley to 

Eiva (Rte. 119). Path ascends £ hr. 
rt. Beyond Grato is a waterfall. 
Thence a steep path through 
woods, then over pasturages of no 
particular interest, to 

Summit, 8360 ft. — an humble 4 hrs. 
Hospice and ch. ; partial view of 
Alps. 

Descent, some good views, to 

Gressonay (St. Jean), 4494 ft. 2 hrs. 
(Inns: *Delapierre's, very good, 
most attentive ; mules, side-sad- 
dles; H. du] Mt. Rosa, extor- 
tionate, 1866). This is the most 
desirable stopping-place on the 
Italian side of Monte Rosa; 
but its distance, 3 hrs. walk from 
the foot of the glacier, is a serious 
drawback. 

History. — German is spoken in 
the communes at the heads of the 
Piedmontese valleys of Monte 
Rosa, and the manners of the 
communes are as distinct as their 
language. They encourage a 
pride of birthplace which strongly 
keeps up the separation. At 
Gressonay the people are distin- 
guished for honesty and industry. 



443 



Rte. 124. — MA CUGNAGA to ALAGNA. 



444 



Crime is almost unknown ; if dis- 
putes arise, the magistrate elected 
by themselves effects an amicable 
settlement. They possess many 
of those comforts which an Eng- 
lishman appreciates. Their attain- 
ments are of a higher order than 
is usually found in such a class, 
especially in such a place. Many 
of their young men have become 
merchants and bankers, and others 
have become eminent for learning 
and science. Among these is 
Herr Zumstein, better known in 
the Val Sesia as M. de la Pierre, 
inspector of the forests of the Val 
Sesia, who long since explored 
the flanks and ascended one of 
the summits of Monte Eosa. 

Excursions. 

a. Lys Glacier. — Mule-path to 
Noversch, where Herr Zumstein 
resides. Beyond this (about i j hr. 
from St. Jean) is the rather large 
hamlet of Gressonay la Trinita. 
Next is San Giacomo [rt., to the 
Col d'Ollen and 1. to the Betta 
Furca (see Ete. 125)]. The last 
hamlet is San Pietro, and be- 
yond it, at a spot called Am Bett, 
is a large house belonging to 
Baron Peccoz, a native of the 
valley, who, after having acquired 
a fortune and title in Germany, 
has returned to his birthplace, 
and there indulges in the passion 
for chamois-hunting. He has a 
chalet close to the E. bank of 
the Lys Glacier, and a house at 
St. Jean, where he keeps trophies 
of the chase, including fine bou- 
quetin's heads, Lys Glacier is 
most easily approached on the E. 
side. Ascend by the lateral mo- 
raine until the less crevassed part 
is reached, and then advance over 
the glacier towards the base of 
the Nase, a peak standing in the 



midst of the glacier, which falls 
in magnificent ice-cascades at 
either side of it. [Mountaineers 
may cross the glacier, and descend 
the steep moraine on the W. side : 
not less than 10 hrs. should be 
allowed for the excursion.] E. 
of the glacier, and below the 
Vincent Pyramide, is the Holies 
Licht, a rounded prominence, 
where at one time a gold-mine 
was worked at more than 10,800 
ft. above the sea. A hut near 
the mine served Zumstein and 
other explorers of Monte Kosa as 
a sleeping-place. Another hut, 
Vincentshiitte, 10,383 ft., was sub- 
sequently built, on the ridge from 
the Vincent Pyramide, close to 
the Col delle Piscie. The brothers 
Schlagintweit remained there for 
14 days in 1851, engaged in 
scientific observations. 

b. ** Grauliaupt, 11,040 ft. W. of 
Gressonay, a first-class panorama. 
Its crags are conspicuous from 
Zermatt. It is difficult for ladies, 
at least to the very top. Ascend 
the Val de Lys for J hr. A steep 
path by a waterfall 1. leads to 
chalets and pasturages (start 
early, before the sun). Thence 
over the side of the hill (chalets, 
milk), rich with rhododendrons 
and mosses, till vegetation begins 
to cease. Mount by a stream to, 
2^ hrs., Col de Pinta, a depres- 
sion in the ridge, strewn with large 
rocks, where, as well as at the 
summit, there is a pyramid of 
stones (horn me de pierre). Here 
the mule-path ends. Fine view. 
The higher part of the mt. inter- 
cepts Monte Eosa, but the whole 
Alpine range is seen froni Mont 
Combin to the Grand Paradis, 
Mont Blanc rearing high above 
its neighbours. Beyond this the 
way lies over shale ; large rocks 



445 Pde. 125.— GBESS ON A Y to CHATILLON. 446 



have to be circumvented or 
climbed, and the incline, just 
after the Col, is steep : afterwards 
the footing is more secure ; there 
is, after if hr., 20 or 30 ft. of 
steep rock : thence, in less than \ 
hr., Tlie Top. A perfect circle of 
mountains stands around. The 
whole of Monte Eosa with the 
majestic Matterhorn appear close ; 
Mont Blanc, farther away W., 
easily proves itself the " Monarch 
of Mountains " in height. The 
Pic de Grivola, the Grand Para- 
dis, and all the ridge N. of Turin, 
are in the middle distance ; whilst 
the Maritime Alps, with Monte 
Viso conspicuously great, on the 
one side, and the Tyrolean Alps 
with the huge Ortler Spitz, on 
the other, form the background 
of this glorious panorama. 

c. Pointe de Combetta, S. of the 
E-anzola pass (Rte. 1 25 ), 2| hrs. up. 
This is better than following a. 
no farther than the Col di Pinta. 

d. Telchenliom, E. of the Lys 
Glacier, a spur of the Hohe3 
Licht. This might be combined 
in a long day's walk with an 
excursion on the glacier. 

e. St. Martin in Val d'Aosta 
(Rte. 134) is 18 m. down the 
valley from Gressonay. ( Inn : La 
Rosa Rossa, very tolerable). The 
road passes many villages, through 
wild rock scenery, combined with 
the richest vegetation. About 
Trina the valley is strewn with 
boulders. Near the Ponte di 
Trinita the scene becomes sterner. 
Below Issime an unbroken wood 
of chestnut stretches across the 
valley. The Vallese loses in in- 
terest to those who ascend it.] 



Rte. 125 . — GrUESSON AY to 
CHATILLON, by the COL DE 
HANZOLA. 



GRESSONEY to 
Brussone (bridle) . 

Hrs. 

a. Verrex (char) 3 
Chatillon „ 2 



Hrs. 
. 4 



Hrs. 

5. Col de Jon 

(horse) . i£ 
Chatillon . i£ 



The ridge "W. of Val de Lys 
may be crossed at many points, 
but the best pass in every respect 
is the Col de Kanzola mule-path. 

Gressonay (Ete. 124). 

Ascend the mtn. opposite to 
Col de Yal Dobbia; it is rather 
fatiguing up to the summit. On 
emerging from the pine forest, 
View of Monte Eosa, with the 
Val de Lys lying far below : its 
river may be traced to its glaciers. 
S. of the pass the peak Pointe de 
Combetta has a fine panoramic 
view. (This can be reached in 
2| hrs. from Gressonay.) 

Col de Ranzola (7136 ft.), 2 hrs. 
Monte Eosa is shut out, but 
there is a fine distant view of 
Mont Blanc. Descent is gradual 
to the hamlet of St. Grat, then 
somewhat steep. Val Challant 
may be traced to where it joins 
Val d'Aosta, in which the Doire 
may be seen like a streak of light, 
broken by the mass of the Castle 
of Verrex. Below, is perched the 
Castle of Challant. 



447 



Bte. 127.— 



VISP to ZEBMATT or 8AA8. 



448 



2 hrs. Brussone {Inns : Hotel Royal, 
tolerable ; Lion d'Or), vill. beauti- 
fully situated. 

Hence to Chatillon. 

a. Char-road down Yal Challant. 

b. More interesting bridle-path over Col 
de Jon. 

a. Hot walk (char-road) down 
the valley to 

3 hrs. Verrex, in Val d'Aosta. 
Beautiful scenery, but goitre, 
and cretinism painfully common 
Thence a walk (char-road), 

2 hrs. Chatillon. Inns : Palais 
Royal ; Lion d'Or : neither good 
— make a bargain. 

b. Cross meadows, and ascend - 
through a fir-wood to 

1 J hr. Col de Jon, a broad open green- 
sward. 

St. Grat. a little ch. View of 
the charming Val d'Aosta, from 
Chatillon almost to Mt. Blanc, 
whose head rises above an inter- 
vening range. 

Descent in zigzags to forests of 
chestnut and walnut trees, and 
soon to vines, past the 

lhr. Baths of St. Vincent {Inn: 
Ecu de France, fair) to one of the 
finest points of the valley of Aosta. 

Jhr. Chatillon (Rte. 134). 



Rte. 127. — VISP to ZEB- 
MATT or SAAS. 

VISP to Hrs. I Hrs. 
Stalden . .if Randa r . 2£ 
S. Niklaus . 2£ | Zermatt . . 25 

Each horse 11 fr. a day; 1 fr. bonne- 
main ; to Stalden 5 frs., St. Nicolas iofrs., 
to Zermatt 22 frs. Including stoppages, 
it is 11 hrs. up to Zermatt, and not 
much less down. The common plan is 
to take horses at Visp, use them at Zer- 
matt for the Riffelberg, &c, and return 
upon them, thus avoiding back fare. Chair- 
men (porteurs de chaise) receive 6 frs. a 
day. 

The lower part of the valley exceedingly 
hot. Pedestrians who push on overnight 
from Visp to the homely inn at Stalden, 
do well. The excursion to Zermatt, Eif- 
felberg, and back to Visp, will require 3 
days. 

Ladies not equal to a ride of 9 hrs. may 
stop halfway, at St. Nicholas (fair Inn) 
for the night. 

The scenery in the Zermatt val- 
ley is fine, and the interest is kept 
up by glimpses of gigantic peaks. 
The people seem poor, and are 
filthily dirty. This valley suffer- 
ed from the earthquake in 1855. 
There is not the least occasion 
for a guide. From 

Visp (Viege — Inn : Sonne, best), 
2362 ft. (Rte. 5 9), the road ascends 
the rt. bank of the river. At end 
of village the rt. branch of the 
road is taken. Thenceforward all 
is clear, except perhaps at Stal- 
den — inquire. View of the snowy 
Balfrin. Vines. 



Neubrucke : the river is crossed \\ hr. 
to its L bank. 

Stalden, vill., 2736 ft. {Inn :%hr. 
Traube, 8 beds, homely and com- 
fortable; try the Heidenwein), 



449 



Hie. m.—VISP to ZERMATT. 



450 



a fertile place at junction of Saas 
valley. Near this are earth pyra- 
mids, formed by rain washing out 
an old moraine. [Across bridge to 
Saas and Mt. Moro pass (Ete. 

122)]. 

1 hr. Bridge, cross to rt. bank. 

1 hr. Bridge, back to 1. bank. 

Jhr. St. Nicholas, 3818 ft. (Inns: 
Croix Blanche, Soleil; used as 
one establishment, fairly good.) 
This vill. was much injured by 
the earthquake in 1855 ; it is the 
chief place in the valley, and is 
charmingly situated. [Bt. to the 
Turtman Thai (Kte. 129).] 

The path soon returns to the 
rt. bank, traversing in turn mea- 
dow and forest, crossed now and 
then by a land-slip or glacier- 
stream from the snows above. In 
front, the snows of the Breithorn 
and the Little Mont Cervin come 
into view. 

IJhr. Herbriiggen, 4133 ft., the 
Weisshorn, rt., is faced. The 
Graben Gl., 1., higher up, from the 
Dom. 

lhr. Eanda, 4740 ft. (Inn, comfort- 
able), situated among meadows, 
opposite the Bies glacier descend- 
ing from the Weisshorn, which 
is here left behind. In 18 19, Dec. 
27, a portion of this glacier de- 
tached itself, and fell 1500 ft. into 
the valley near Eanda ; the mere 
draft of air, produced by its fall, 
destroyed houses, scattering the 
timbers like straws to the dis- 
tance of a mile, and hurling mill- 
stones up hill. 

lhr. Tasch, 4776 ft. [To Saas by 
the Allalein high glac. pass.] 

Jhr. Hohesteg bridge; thence, 
Kp. Switz. 



turning a corner where the road 
has been cut in the rock, sudden 
* View of the pyramid of the Mat- 
terhorn (Mt. Cervin). Zermatt 
also is seen. 

Zermatt (Piedmontese Pra- 
borgne), 5315 ft. (Inns: H. du 
Mont Eosa, favoured by the Alp- 
ine Club : H. du Mont Cervin, 
better rooms and dinners, more 
quiet. Inn on the Biffelberg 
2 J hrs. higher up, is kept by 
the proprietors of the H. Mont 
Eosa). This retired vill., 450 
Inhab., consisting of about 60 
quaint old black wooden houses, 
with the 2 huge white inns tower- 
ing above them, is placed in a 
little plain near the junction of 3 
valleys, each headed by a great 
glacier. E. is the Findelen Glacier, 
S. the Zermatt or Gorner Glacier, 
and W. the Zmutt Glacier. The 
climate is milder for its height 
than any other in the Alps. 

The grandest object in the views 
around Zermatt is the Mont Cer- 
vin (Germ. Matterhorn, Ital. 
Monte Silvio), 14,705 ft., rising in 
singular magnificence. It lifts 
itself from a line of glaciers that 
exceed ir,ooo ft. The sight of it 
alone would repay the trouble of 
a visit to Zermatt. 

Guides are numerous, and gene- 
rally good : several members of 
the families Taugwald and Biner 
are recommended : most of them 
speak a little French. TarirY of 
charges is hung up at the hotels ; 
6 fr. a day and 1 fr. bonnemain 
for ordinary excursions ; mules 
1 1 fr. a day and 1 fr. bonnemain. 

Excursions and Guides' Fees. 

a. *Riffelberg and **Gorner Grat. 

b. Schwartsee, Homli, and Zmutt GL, 
6 frs. 

c. Untere Rothhorn. 

d. St. Theodule and Breithorn (see also 
Rto. 128). 

Q 



451 



Rte. 111.— ZERMATT— GORNER GRAT. 452 



e. Mettelhorn. Guide 8 frs. 

f. Cinia di Jazi and New Weissthor, 
lofrs. 

g. Mte. Eosa ascent. Guide 50 frs. 

a. Riffelberg and Gomer Grat. 
N.B. — The Eiffelberg Inn is 
often full. Rooms may be secured 
at the Monte Eosa beforehand 
From the inns at Zermatt, 2 
hrs. of ascent, the road goes up 
through the village to a bridge, 
which it crosses, and thence as- 
cends to 

Jhr. Ch. of Whikelmatter : here turn 
ri, cross the Findelen torrent, 
past a meadow, and up a fir- 
wood, where the path branches, 
keep 1. [rt. leads to Gomer GL]. 
At length, the path emerges on 
a pasturage, and passing 

lhr. Chalets (milk), turns rt., and 
crosses a torrent. Inn in full 
sight. The rest of the ascent 
winds tediously round the shoul- 
der of the Eiffelberg. 
ljhr. Inn of the Eiffel, 8430 ft., 
eularged, 5 o beds. Useful quarters 
for high excursions. Charges 
high. View of Mt. Cervin, &c. 
Continuing over high barren pas- 
tures (myriads of grasshoppers), 
and passing the peak of the Bif- 
felhorn, which it is possible but 
profitless to climb^ we reach 

lhr. Small Lake, 9124 ft. [path, 
rt., takes down the cliffs to the 
Gorner Gl.], keep the 1. path ; it 
becomes rugged, and horses are 
usually sent back from here. 
Over rocks, with snow in hollows, 
to 

Jhr. Gorner Grot, 10,290 ft. *View 
of Gorner Gl. and Panorama {see 
next page) of snow mtns. 40 m. in 
diameter — far exceeds any view 
from Chamquni. The portions of 
Panorama hidden from Eiffel Inn 
are seen from Gorner Grat. The 
only intercepting point is the 
Hochtlialigrat, ij hr. farther. 



View from it differs veiy little 
from that already obtained. 

In returning to Zermatt, by 
a circuit of 1 hr. the foot of the 
Gomer Glacier may be visited. 
Here one may touch the meadows 
with one hand and the glacier 
with the other; for the gl. is en- 
croaching and protrudes into the 
pastures. The turf is turned up 
and thrown back as by the share 
of an enormous plough. It was 
still advancing in 1863. The de- 
scent from the glacier is f hr. to 
Zermatt. 



b. Schwartzsee, Hornli, and 
Zmutt Glacier. Bridle-path. 

From Zermatt, pass the bridge 
to the Eiffel, without crossing it, 
and keep the path to the Theo- 
dule. 

Near the Gorner Gl. ascend rt. f hr. 
up steep zigzags. 

Track becomes more level a^nd 1 hr. 
leads straight towards the Matter- 
horn. 

Schwartzsee, 8393, a tarn| hr. 
with a lone chapel beside it. 
From the low ridge E. of it a 
superb View of the basin of Zer- 
matt, with its surrounding moun- 
tains. The Matterhorn, rising 
overhead, is the principal object ; 
but the view also embraces the 
whole extent of the Gorner Gl. 
to the top of Monte Eosa. 

A still finer *View from thel hr. 
Hdrnli, a rocky peak above the 
lake ; a steep ascent, a small part 
of which is over ice or moraine, 
and not safe for most people with- 
out a guide. 

Descend from the Schwartzsee, 
for variety, by a longer but les3 
steep route, to the foot of the 
Zmutt Gl, and return along the 
S. side of the valley to Zermatt 



455 



Bte. 1 27. — ZFjBMA TT— CIMA DI JAZL 



456 



Another return rte. is by the 
side of the Gorner Gl. 



c. Untere Rothhorn, 10,190 ft., 
due E. Ascent, 4J hrs. by a steep 
mule-path. The view is more 
panoramic than from the Gorner 
Grat ; it rises in the centre of 
snow mts., and you see the 3 chief 
glacier rtes. leading out of the 
valley of Zermatt, viz., the Theo- 
dule into Val d'Aosta, the Weiss 
Thor into Val Anzasca, and that 
by Zmutt Glacier into Val d'Erin. 
There is a short and steep descent 
N. into the Findelenthal. 



d. St. Theodule and JBreithorn. 
— Those who do not intend cross- 
ing the St. Theodule ^should as- 
cend the pass. (See Rte. 128 for 
full particulars.) 

Vary the return rte. by making 
for the Eiffel {Inn), right across 
the Gorner GL, a very agreeable 
excursion, of 3 J hrs., and thence 
down to Zermatt in 2 hrs. more. 

Breithorn may be ascended in 
about 3 hrs. from the Theodule 
cabane (Kte. 128); the descent 
will take about 2 hrs. View from 
the summit is nearly equal to 
that from Monte Kosa. 



e. Ascent of the Mettelhorn, 
11,187 ft, 4 J hrs. up, 3 hrs. down 
(mules might be taken 2 hrs. up). 
A more magnificent 'panorama of 
ice and snow than from any other 
mountain equally accessible. The 
Weisshorn is full in face; E. is 
the whole range of the Saas Grat ; 
besides the excellent views of the 
Great Alpine Cham, there is one 
N. right down the Zermatt valley 
to the Aletsch Gl. and mtns. of the 
Oberland. The last part of the 



ascent is over snow and rock ; the 
final climb is very steep for ladies. 
Many might, however, succeed in 
it with a good guide each. No 
danger. Fine view at the foot of 
the final climb, but very inferior 
to that from the summit. 



/. Cima di Jazi and New Weiss 
Thor glacier pass (see Bte. 121) to 
Macugnaga, 9 or 10 hrs., according 
to the snow; back, 10 or 11 hrs., 
for the ascent is longer. This is 
the easiest of the first-class passes, 
and as interesting as any of them. 
It of course requires fair train- 
ing, steadiness, good guides, and 
the usual glacier precautions. 

Guide, 25 fi\, porter, 15 fr. A thoroughly 
good guide is essential for safety and 
success. Clouds often gather round the 
summit. 

Sleep at the Eiffel Inn, and be on the 
Gorner Grat early in the morning. 

Starting from the Eiffel Inn 
on the road to the Gorner Grat, 
take the path, rt., at the little lake 
below the Riffelhorn. It passes 
nearly on a level along the cliff 
overlooking the Gorner Grat, till 
the gradual rise of the glacier 
brings its surface to a level with 
the path. In 1 hr. the glacier is 
taken and ascended, but the cre- 
vasses soon render it necessary to 
return to the rocks on the 1. ij 
hr., the path takes to the glacier 
again. Here the rope is put on. 
From this point the track lies 
nearly in a straight line, E., over 
easy slopes of snow, and across or 
round crevasses, more or less con- 
cealed. Towards the higher part 
of this great snow-field the 2 gla- 
ciers — Gorner and Findelen — be- 
come mingled together, there 
being here only a faint dividing 
ridge. Looking back, the view 



457 Bte. 127.— ZEBM ATT— MONTE BOS A, 458 



takes in nearly the whole of the 
chain from Monte Eosa to Mont 
Blanc — seen, however, in the di- 
rection of its length ; it is not easy 
to distinguish intermediate peaks. 
The track now bears away to the 
1., or N.E., leaving on the rt. the 
Cima de Jazi, 12,507 ft., and 
crossing a slight col in the ridge 
joining the Oima di Jazi and the 
Strahlhorn. 

[The ascent of the Cima di Jazi 
is a climb of not more than 700 ft., 
and is perfectly easy. No other 
mountain in the Alps, of the same 
height, is so accessible. Guide 
from Eiffel inn, 10 fr. ; time, 5 
hrs. up.] 

After ascending for a short dis- 
tance on the N. of the col, a point 
is reached where in two or three 
steps the scene is changed as if by 
enchantment. Instead of toiling 
over a snow-field, with no object 
visible save neve and black rocks, 
the traveller finds himself on a 
ledge of rock overlooking a pre- 
cipice. On the N. or 1. side this 
terminates in a buttress only a 
few yards distant ; in the opposite 
direction the wall on which he is 
standing extends far to the south- 
ward, until it joins the tremendous 
eastern face of Monte Eosa. The 
highest intervening summit is the 
Cima di Jazi, not more than 600 
or 700 ft. higher than where he 
stands. There, and in many other 
places, the thick layer of snow 
which coats the top of the ridge 
is seen to form a cornice that might 
be easily broken by the weight of 
an unwary traveller. Looking 
downward, the lower end of the 
Macugnaga glacier lies 6000 ft. 
below, appearing so near that a 
stone might be flung on it. Hence 
the usual course is to ascend fur- 
ther N. along the ridge, until a 
few projecting rocks are reached. 



At this point the wall connecting 
Monte Eosa and the Strahlhorn, 
along the top of which the track 
has hitherto lain, is joined by a 
transverse ridge running in an 
easterly direction. This ridge 
is lower than the wall agamst 
which it abuts, and at the point 
of junction it is united by a 
buttress of rock partly coated with 
snow and ice. It is by this but- 
tress that the pass of the New 
Weiss Thor, 11,850 ft., is usually 
effected. The N. side looks to- 
wards Saas, and overhangs the 
Schwarzberg Glacier, which de- 
scends near to the Distel Alp. 
.[From the foot of the arete it is 
easy to reach the Schwarzberg 
glacier, and so descend into the 
valley of Saas, a little above the 
inn at the Mattmark See. (See 
Ete. 122.)] The S. side of the 
buttress faces the Macugnaga gla- 
cier. It is by the N. side that 
the first part of the descent is 
made, along steep faces of rock. 
There is good holding-ground for 
hands and feet. In \ hr. comes 
the chief apparent difficulty of 
the pass. This is a steep ridge of 
snow, sometimes frozen hard, 
along the edge of which the de- 
scent lies. With good guides, 
and proper use of the rope, there 
is no danger. 

At the foot of this are steep 
rocks with snow between them. 
Here the rope may be laid aside. 
The track now takes to the Ma- 
cugnaga side of the ridge, and 
the remainder of the descent is 
alternately over rocks, piles of 
debris, and snow slopes which are 
sometimes favourable for a glis- 
sade. The remainder of the de- 
scent presents no difficulties. 



g. Ascent ofMonteBosa. — Start- 



Me. 128. — ZEB31ATT to CHATILLON. 



460 



ing from the Eiffel Inn, the expe- 
dition takes 14 hrs. The highest 
part of Monte Eosa consists of a 
range of 5 peaks running N. and 
S., the extremities of the range 
not being more than 2 m. apart. 
Commencing at the northern end, 
the names and heights of the 
peaks are, according to the latest 
measurements, — 

Eng. ft. 

N. NordEnd . . 15.132 
„ Hochste Spitze . 15,217 
„ Zumstein Spitze . i5>°°4 
„ Signal Kuppe . 14,964 

S. Parrot Spitze . . 14,5 7 7 

From Nord End to Parrot Spitze 
is 2 m. in an air-line. 

The Hochste Spitze is called, par 
excellence, Monte Eosa. It was 
first ascended to the very top in 
1855, by Messrs. Hudson, G. and 
C. Smyth, Birkbeck, and Ste 
venson, accompanied by Ulrich 
Lauener, of Lauterbrunuen, and 
3 Zermats guides. 

Since i860 the ascent of Monte 
Eosa has become very common 
for though it is more difficult and 
dangerous than Mt. Blanc, yet it 
costs less money, and there is no 
necessity for sleeping out on the 
mountain. 



Zermatt to Breuil, 7 hrs. (see 
Ete. 127, dj. 

This is the easiest of the high glacier 
passes of the Alps. 300 travellers, many of 
them ladies, have crossed in a year. TVhen 
the snow is very firm, mules are some- 
times taken across. jS" 0 one should, how- 
ever, attempt to pass it alone. It is easy to 
miss the way, and fatal accidents have 
occurred from neglect of the rope. The 
time requisite varies according to the state 
of the snow ; it is easy walking early in 
the morning, very laborious later when the 
snow is softened by the sun. An ordinary 
pedestrian reaches the summit in 4 J hrs. 
from Zermatt, or by another road, across 
the Gorner GL, in 4 hrs. from the Eiffel 
inn, Breuil in 2£ hrs. more. 

The usual plan for ladies is to take a 
mule from Zermatt for 2 hrs. (10 fr.), or 
3 hrs. (15 fr.), which last brings them to 
the foot of the glacier. They then walk 
14- hr. up to the Col, and ii nr. down to 
the foot of the Foumeaux (1^ hr. short of 
Breuil), where mules can often be found in 
the season ; or a guide may be sent on to 
order a mule from Breuil (6 fr.). The 
guides charge 15 fr. to Breuil or Val 
Tournanche, 20 fr. to Chatillon, and 
expect 1 or 2 fr. bonnemain. 

Leaving Zermatt the path takes 
the 1. bank of the stream. 

Bridge across the torrent from J 
the Zmutt Glacier ; it then winds 
amongst meadows and chalets to- 
wards the W. side of the Gorner 
Glacier. 

Ascent begins by woods andj 
pastures W. of the Gorner Glacier. 
The torrent from the Furgge Gla- 
cier, descending in a deep rift, is 
crossed, and after this the path 
becomes very steep. 



Ete. 128. - ZERMATT to 
CHATILLON, by the COL DE 
ST. TKEOBTJLE (MATTER- 
JOCH) and VAL TOUR- 
NANCHE. 



ZERMATT to 

Hrs. 

Col St.Theodule5 



Breuil . 
Chatillon 



Hrs. 

. 2f 

. 5i 



End of the pastures. Thel 

course becomes bad for mules, 
lying over rocks and loose schist, 
with no definite path. 

Glacier is reached. The gla-1 
cier is steep, but singularly smooth 
and free from crevasses. 



461 Bte. 128. — St. THEOD TILE— VAL TO URN AN GEE. 462 



J hr. Eocks are traversed. 

Jhr. Glacier is again reached and 
ascended. Between the Great and 
Little Mt. Oervin lies the Matter- 
joch or 

| hr. Pass of St. Theo&ule {Inn ; a 
solid hut, the highest habitation 
in Europe, on a bare crag ; mulled 
wine, and other good food. It is 
possible to sleep in it). View of 
the upper world of snow- fields is 
extraordinary and grand. No 
similar class of view is so acces- 
sible as this, and few equal it 
elsewhere. The opportunity of 
seeing it is not lightly to be aban- 
doned by visitors to Zermatt. 

Here Saussure remained 3 days, 
with his son and attendants, en- 
gaged in experiments. Traces of 
their cabins exist, and also of a 
redoubt thrown up in the 15 th 
centy. by the Valaisans, to mark 
the Swiss frontier. 

Descent from the summit 
towards the Val d'Aosta, lies over 
the glacier. 

I hr. Foot of Glacier. Thence steep 
descent down loose rubbish called 
the " Fourneaux." 

I hr. Foot of Fourneaux. Here, or 
even at the foot of the glacier, 
mules left by travellers on the 
ascent may often be found wait- 
ing during the season. Over 
pastures to 

11 hr. Breuil {Inn, H. du Mont 
Cervin, at Goemen, well spoken 
of, 3 hrs. from St. Theodule ; 
very comfortable, horses and side- 
saddles). It is surrounded on 3 
sides by tremendous precipices, 
snowy peaks, and huge glaciers. 
[From Breuil the ascent of the 
Breithorn may be made more con- 



veniently than from Zermatt. 
The ascent of the Motta di Plete, 
i| m. from Breuil, will repay by 
a view of extraordinary grandeur, 
including the Cogne chain and 
Mont Cervin.] 

There is no occasion for a guide down 
the valley. 

Descending the little plain and 
following the 1. bank of the 
stream, an extraordinary waste is 
crossed, then another little plain 
followed by another waste, and 
then another plain with the cha- 
lets of Aouet. The path next 
enters a ravine and follows a 
ledge amongst magnificent scenery 
to the 

N. D. de la Garde, a little 1 J hr. 
chapel; near this the torrent 
makes 1 or 2 fine waterfalls. 
* View back on Mont Cervin. A 
short and steep descent follows, 
and the torrent is crossed to the 
rt. bank. 

Bridge to the 1. bank, and ajhr. 
short ascent leads to 

Yal Tournanche {Inn : H. du J hr. 

Mont Kose, homely but clean, 
horses, side - saddles), a vill. 
on an eminence. View down 
the valley, terminating with the 
snowy mass of the Grand Para- 
dis. Steep zigzags lead down 
to the bridge, which takes the 
path to the rt. bank. 

The Grotte de Busser allies is a 
narrow and deep chasm, showing 
the mode in which running water 
consumes solid rocks when carry- 
ing stones with it, which it whirls 
round and round, forming deep 
pits, here called marmites. 

The whole of the scenery below 
Val Tournanche is magnificent. 
The valley is shaded with noble 



463 



Bte. 129.— ST. NICHOLAS to GRUB EN. 



464 



chestnuts and walnut-trees ; below 
foams the torrent, above on each 
side are rocks and precipices, and 
the Mont Cervin is frequently in 
view. 

1 hr. Roman Aqueduct ; its remains 
may be seen high up on the face 
of the rock, on the rt., and they 
are continued at intervals for 
miles. The finest portion is in 
front of a cliff, nearly opposite 

lhr. Antey, vill. The mule-track 
after a while rises high above 
the stream, but pedestrians can 
find paths by the waterside and 
through green and shady mea- 
dows till close to Chatillon. This 
part of the valley is fearfully hot 
in summer, and should be passed 
early in the morning or late in 
the evening. 

ljhr. Chatillon (seeEte. 134). Inns 
not good ; St. Vincent, lower 
down Val d'Aosta, is a better 
sleeping-place. 

Route Reversed. — Guides, horses, and 
side-saddles will be found at Chatillon, 
at Tal Tournanche, and at Breuil: the 
guides ask 20 fr. to Zemiatt, with 1 or 

2 fr. bonnemain. Xo guide is wanted up 
to Breuil ; beyond that place no one 
should attempt the Col without one. 
Antoine Pession of Yal Tournanche is a 
good guide. Mule from Chatillon to 
Breuil 10 fr., Breuil to the glacier 5 or 
6 fr. A short distance outside Chatillon a 
footpath to the rt. goes along the stream 
through shaded meadows and joins the 
mule-path 2 m. farther on. It takes 4 hrs. 
moderate walking to reach Val Tour- 
nanche, and 2f hrs. to go thence to Breuil. 

3 hrs. ascent to the Col, unless there be 
much fresh snow ; 3+ hrs. or less from the 
Col to Zermatt or to the Riffelberg. 



Rte. 129. -ST. NICHOLAS to 
GKRTTBEK in the TURTMAN 
THAI; thence to ST. LUC 
in VAL D'ANNIVIEES ; 
thence down the valley to 
STJSTEN. 

ST. NICHOLAS to Hrs. 
Gruben (bridle) .... 6 

This district was until lately 
seldom visited. Xow that inns 
Lave been built at Gruben (Zmei- 
den) in the Turtinan Thai, at 
St. Luc and also at Zinal in Val. 
d"Anniviers. and at *Evolena in 
the Val d'Herins, these valleys 
will probably be more visited. 
From St. Nicholas to Gruben, 
however, is stony, and the scenery 
not first-class. 

St. Nicholas (Bte. 127). Cross 
the river, and ascend the opposite 
side of the valley. (Too steep to 
be ridden downwards.) 

Jung chapel and chalets — milk. 1} hi*. 
View of Saas Grat. Hence the 
old footway over the Jung Joch 
diverged. The present bridle- 
path, over a different col, is in 
every way preferable. 

Pile of Stones (or Stein-mann) 1 hr. 
at crest of valley. * View of Saas 
Grat. Aletsch Glacier *Weiss- 
horn, Mt. Rosa. Thence up the 
Ausbord Thai, rough and dreary. 

Summit of col. lj hr. 

[rt. Zehnten (or Dreizehnten) 
horn, 10,520 ft, 1 hr. ascent by a 
rough footpath. First class pano- 
ramic View, unbroken except 
where the neighbouring * Weiss- 
horn shuts out the Matterhorn. 



465 Rte. 129.-8T. NICHOLAS to GRTJBEN. 466 



The Aletsch Glacier is seen from 
top to bottom. The Oberland is 
in full definition from the Diable- 
rets to the Oldenhorn.] 

Descent over snow patches down 
a dreary valley. 

1 hr. Chalets of Gruben Alp. Here 
the horse-path becomes good. 

1 hr. Gruben (by Zmeiden). {Inn, 
Weisshom, fair, but small and 
dear, on a green meadow with 
rocky knolls, by a stream. Guides 
and mules.) Neither this nor any 
other place in the Turtman Thai 
is inhabited during winter. The 
chalets are only mayens, A 

The Turtman Thai is a wild 
valley 15 m. in length. Its sum- 
mer inhabitants come from the 
German portion of the Valais ; 
those of Val. d'Anniviers and 
Val d'Herins are .French-speaking 
people of Latin origin, and are 
superior in point of appearance. 
These three valleys are free from 
cretinism. 

Excursions from Gruben. 

a. To Turtman (Tourtemagne), 
on the Simplon Koad (Rte. 59), 
3 J hrs. bridle-path. It traverses 
what was a magnificent forest, 
now ravaged by the axe. The 
waterfall close by Turtman is not 
seen from the path. 

b. To Turtman Glacier. Ascend 
the valley. Mules can be taken 
past Zerbitzen. 



Gruben to St. Luc. 

GRUBEN to hrs. hrs. 
Meiden Pass . 2* Pas de Boeuf . 2£ 
St. Luc . . 2i St. Luc ... 2 

" There are 3 passes from the Turtman 
Thai, into the Einfisch Thai; — 



a. Meiden (or Zmeiden). b. Pas de 
Bceuf, whence Bella Tola may be 
ascended, grand panorama, c. Pas de 
Forcletta to head of Einfisch Thai. 

a. Meiden bridle-pass. 

Gruben. Cross the river and 
mount the steep opj^osite side of 
the valley ; keep 1. above, to 
chalets of Alp Z'Meiden perched 
high up. *V'teio of Weisshorn and 
its glaciers. Hence the path is 
steep. 

Meiden Pass. rt. Pinnacles 2 J hrs. 
of quartz. No defined path. Past 
debris of quartz pinnacles fallen 
from the main ridge. Wild scene 
to the crest of the Einfisch Thai. 

Descent thence is good to 

St. Luc {see below). 2f hrs. 

b. Pas de Boeuf. 

From Gruben ascend to chalets 
of Z'Meiden as above, thence 

Pas de Boeuf. Descend to 2} hrs. 

Junction rt. of path up the J hr. 

Bella Tola. [Ascend Bella Tola 
(or Borterhom), 9744 ft. 1 hr. 
mule-path. **First class pa- 
norama {see woodcut), command- 
ing the Glacier of Bella Tola, the 
Alps of Berne and Vallais to N. ; 
the main chain of Monte Eosa, 
Mont Blanc, [S. The top of the 
Bella Tola may be reached as an 
independent excursion in 3 J Ins. 
from St. Luc] 

Descent, path is good to 

St. Luc {Inn: Bella Tola, 2 hrs. 
small but good), a haulet perched 
on the steep sideo. ,e valley, some 
2000 ft. above its level and above 
Vissoye. * View of the, here chisel- 



469 Bte. 129.- -ZINAL— COL BE SOBBEBOIS. 470 



shaped, head of the Matterhorn, 
locally called Grande Couronne, 
towering over the Col cle la Dent 
Blanche. [Visit stone called 
Pierre de Servagios, a relic of 
ancient times, also hollowed cham- 
bers in a rock E.J 

c. Pas de Forcletta. 

From Gruben, up valley to 
(bridle-path). 

IJhr. Zerbitzen, thence on foot. 

4 J hrs. Col of the Forcletta. Descend 

to 

5 j hrs. Ayer Chalets, thence a bridle- 

path to either 

2 hrs. St. Luc, or Zinal. 



Vol d'Anniviers. — A Scandi- 
navian origin has been attri- 
buted to the pop. of this beau- 
tiful and retired valley, but at 
present they speak a French patois, 
differing little from that of the 
Val d'Aosta. They are courteous 
to strangers. Their lives are 
passed between hard labour and 
the offices of religion, in both of 
which they are diligent. 

There are several villages in the 
valley, of which the chief is Vis- 
soy e, f hr. from St. Luc. but there 
is no inn there. 

Excursions. 

a. To Zinal. Above Vissoye, 
near the hamlet of Cremenz, the 
valley divides ; the W. branch, 
leading to the passes (Kte. 130) 
into the Val d'XIerens, is called 
the Val de Torrent, while the E. 
branch leads in 3 J hrs. from St. 
Luc, and past Ayer, to 



Zinal {Inn: H. du Durancl, 
rough accommodation, good wine, 
civil people), the last hamlet in the 
valley. A good guide, Viennin 
lives there. 

Excursions f rom Zinal. 

Chalets of Arpitetta are easily 
reached. *View. Seen from this 
point, the W. side of the Weiss- 
horn, first ascended by Prof. Tyn- 
dall 1 86 1, may rank with the E. 
side of Monte Kosa and the S. side 
of Mont Blanc, . 

Zinal to Val Torrent, by Col de 
Sorrebois. — Rough bridle-way. 

Zinal, over the bridge across the 
sward, and up the steep cliff at 
the only practicable place ; then 
wind 1. along its brow to Chalets ; 
numerous cattle. A small lake is 
skirted ; then rough upland pas- 
tures. View E. 

Col de Sorrebois. The Come 2 J hrs. 
rises rt. * Vieiv Weisshorn stand- 
ing without a rival. 

Descent steep, among rocks and 
snow (the path is improved), to 
broad pasture, and so to and over 

Bridge. [Junction with Col If hr. 
de Torrent rte. {see below).] 

[Zinal is the best starting-point 
for the 2 glacier passes to Zer- 
matt.] 

b. St. Luc to Sierre, in the 
Bhone valley. 

Bridle-path down the valley. 
3 tunnels. Beautiful scenery, 

Sierre, on Simplon Road (Rte. 3* hrs. 

59). 

b. St. Luc toSusten in the Bhone 
valley, by Illsee, 

From St. Luc, up a terraced 
bridle-path, through woods and 
gorges to 



471 



Mte, 130.-OT. LUC to EVOLENA. 



472 



ljhr. Chandolin vill., 6433 ft.; 
thenceforward footpath to 

2hrs. Col rt. of the Hhorn. [Make 
a detour of J hr., ascending 1. of 
Ilhorn to crest of precipice over- 
looking the *Eboidement or lll- 
graben. Here the whole side of 
the mountain has fallen as a vast 
ruin into the valley, leaving a 
yawning gulf surrounded by trea- 
cherous crags. In addition, as- 
cend Ilhorn, 8937 ft, View, but 
inferior to Zeytenhorn and Bella 
Tola.] 

lhr. Illsee, 7710 ft., a mountain- 
tarn. The descent is very fine, 
passing a dense forest of old pines, 
with peeps into the Eboulement. 
After this are pastures and chalets, 
and a second pine-wood. 

Susten, on Simplon Road (Kte. 
5 9). 



Rte. 130.-ST. LUC to EVO- 
LENA — EVOLENA to SION. 

ST. LUC to Hrs. ST. LUC to Hrs. 
a. Col de Lona 5I b. Col de Torrent 6i 
Evolena . 4^ Evolena . . 3% 

r There are 2 bridle-passes, of about 
8700 ft. The most direct is — a. Pas de 
Lona, The usual one is by — b. Col de 
Torrent, Travellers from Zinal, who 
take b, instead of descending the Zinal 



branch of the valley to Cremenz, and re- 
ascending the other branch to the foot of 
the pass, may cross the ridge between 
them, by the Col de Sorrebois (see col. 
470). There is also a pretty glacier pass, 
the Breona. 

a. Pas de Lona (bridle-path). 

St. Luc. Up valley ; take rt. 
branch. 

Cremenz, thence ascend to 2|hrs. 

Col de Lona. It lies between 3 hrs. 
the Sassaneire (black rock), 1., 
10,690 ft, and the Bees de Bossons, 
rt., 10,370 ft. [Ascend either. The 
views are magnificent. The former 
is more conveniently climbed from 
the Col de Torrent.] Descend to 

Eison [to Sion, Ete. 59, down 3 hrs. 
the Evolena Thai, 4J hrs., making 
.11 1 hrs. from St. Luc]. 

Evolena (see below). 1J hr. 

b. Col de Torrent (bridle-path). 

St. Luc. Up valley; take rt. 
branch (or Val Torrent) — 



Cremenz. 

Torrent- 



Continue up Val 2f his. 



Bridge on 1. [Junction of path 2 hrs. 

over Col de Sorrebois (see above).] 
Then turn rt. up hill. * View of 
the massive Glacier deMoiry (or de 
Torrent) filling the head of the 
valley. Path is steep (but not 
difficult to ride down) up a valley 
that would be dreary were it not 
for the glacier. Small lake, 1. 
Scene is wild and rock-strewn. 

Col de Torrent, 95 90 ft, marked If hr. 
by a cross. * View of snow-fields at 
head of Val d* Erin range of mtns. 
[Ascend Sassaneire, rt, 10,690 ft. ; 



473 Bte. 130.— ST. LUC to EVOLENA. 474 



^first-class panorama. View of 
Oberland, S. ; Dent Blanche, N. 

Murder. — Here Herr Quesnel, 
a Hanoverian, was barbarously 
murdered July 23, 1863. The as- 
sassin, a well-known mauvaissujet, 
a Swiss Valaisan, once in the Nea- 
politan army, and recently escaped 
from imprisonment foi'forgery, had 
taken to the hills to avoid recap- 
ture. He had a brother who 
communicated with him there. 
Hearing thus of Herr Quesnel' s 
intended journey, he built a low 
screen of stones 1. of the cross, 
and there posted himself gun in 
hand. As the traveller and his 
guide approached to within 20 
paces of the top, the assassin 
began to fire. The guide fell 
severely wounded : Herr Quesnel 
was slightly wounded and ran 
down hill. The assassin pursued, 
overtook, and shot him dead. 
He then returned up hill to the 
wounded guide, to despatch him 
also ; but was turned from his 
purpose by the poor fellow's 
entreaties. The wounded guide 
was ultimately found in a miserable 
state by shepherds. The murderer 
was afterwards captured on his 
evidence; but being, in course 
of law, transferred down the 
Simmenthal to Berne, in charge 
of 2 old gensd'armes, he made a 
sudden clash into the Simmen, a 
little below Erlenbach, got across, 
and wholly escaped. The gens- 
d'armes were punished. 

Descent, first down the zigzags, 
then skirt the cliff, then over 
ground . cut up by watercourses. 

Chalets of Villa. [Hence, when 
the grass is mown, is a short cut 
on foot, leaving chalets on rt., 
otherwise the circuitous horsepath 
must be followed.] 



Evolena {Inn : H. de la Dent 3 J hrs. 
Blanche, very good; excellent 
place for excursions ; side-saddles . 
Some complaints of high charges 
and inefficient guides). Veignet 
is a good guide. 

Excursions ; Bridle. — a. Gl. de Ferpecle 
2i hrs.; Chalet de Bricolla (Abricolla), 
i£ hr. farther. The latter part cannot be 
ridden down. 

b. Glacier d' Arolla upper chalets, 4 hrs. ; 
thence Col de Eiedmatten, foot, i£ hr. up, 
1 hr. down. 

c. Ascent of Sassaneire (see col. 472), 
panorama. 

d. Ascent of Pic d' Arzinol, grand pano- 
rama. (On foot the last hr.) 

e. Couronne de Breona, 4 hrs., last part 
on foot. 

Glacier passes to Zermatt by Col d'He- 
rins, — sleep at Bricolla chalets, thence 
9 hrs. to Zermatt. To Prerayen, in Val- 
pellina, by Col de Collon (Rte. iji), or by 
Col des Bouquetins, and thence to Aosta. 
To Val Heremence by Col de Eiedmatten, 
or Pas des Chevres (adjacent passes). To 
Chermontaine, in Val de Bagne, over 
either of the same passes, and then over 
the Col du Mt. Rouge, or the Col de Cher- 
montaine. 

Evolena to Sion. 

EVOLENA to M . 

M. Vex .... 7 
TJseigne . . 9^ Sion .... 5 

A good bridle-road. (A longer 
but not more interesting one leads 
the whole way down the 1. bank 
of the river. See also Vex below.) 

Evolena (45 20 ft.). 

Chapel on a rocky knoll, in the 
jaws of the upper valley. Views. 
Thence a gradual descent to and 
across 

Bridge over Borgne (3540 ft.) 7 m. 
lying below Eison vill. 

Columns of TJseigne. A group 2 J m. 
of Earth Pyramids, pinnacles left 
by the partial washing away of 
the friable moraine. Each pin- 
nacle is capped by a stone, or 



475 



Me. 131.— AOSTA to EVOLENA. 



476 



tuft of grass, the means, no doubt, 
whereby it has been preserved. 
[Bridle-path, 1., leads up Yal Here- 
mence.] 

1 m. Bridge (3050 ft.) over Dixence 
■ — the river of the Yal Heremence 
(Orsiera Thai). Thence, more on 
the level, below the village of He- 
remence, and between prettily 
posed hamlets ; but losing sight 
of the mtn. range that closes the 
head of the valley. 

6m. Vex (3410 ft.). Small Inn, 
good wine. 

[2 other paths from Evolena 
converge at Yex . A higher bridle- 
way through Heremence, and a 
lower footway, rough but shorter, 
that has crossed the Borgne, 3jm. 
above Yex, descending to it from 
Suen.] 

Lonzenborne Hermitage ( 2 

monks) lies opposite the road as it 
follows the brow of the ravine. 

2 m. La Crete. Thence by a gra- 
dual descent to 

3 m. Bridge across Ehone (1630 ft.), 
just below 

Sion {see Ete. 5 8 a).] 



Rte. 131. — AOSTA to EVO- 
LENA, by the VALPELLINA 
and COL BE COLLON, 

AOSTA to 

Valpellina (char) . . 7I- miles. 

Prerayen (bridle) . . si h rs - 

Evolena (foot) . . . n hrs. 



A high and grand glacier pass. 
No distant views. The natives of 
Yalpellina are shy, and refuse 
food and shelter. The upper part 
of the valley is very grand. 

Aosta (Rte. 134). Down valley, 
crossing the river of the Yalpel- 
lina, and turn 1. (1 mile from the 
middle of the town). 

Valpellina vill. Here the 2 J hrs. ! 
valley narrows, and the road is 
steep. 

Oyace vill., on a rock barrier. i| hm 
Biona (refreshment at Cure's). 1 hr. 

Prerayen chalets. Take food 2 J hrs. 
and sleep here. 

(This is an important centre to 
mountaineers. Good accommoda- 
tion is needed.) The head of the 
valley is bounded by grand snow 1 
mtns. 

The way to the Col de Colon 
lies up a steep valley, 1. 

Toot of Moraine. The gla- 1 hr, 
cier has retreated. There are 
two rtes. to the upper glacier : a. 
over rocks, usually the preferable 
course; b. up the steep glacier. 
The upper gl. being reached, a 
broad plain and two or three long 
slopes lead to 

The Col (10,268 ft.). To the 3J hrs.' 
left is a crest of rocks, in which is 
stuck a small iron cross, dated 
1754. View of spires of rock and 
swells of snow. 

Descent. The glacier towards 
Evolena, which on this side is 
called Arolla, is more extensive, 
and crevassed. A line of rocks 
in front of the Col is skirted, and 



477 Bte. 134. — TUBIN to AOSTA and COUBMAYEUB. 478 



then its moraine is kept to the 1. 
and after about 

1 hr. Glacier is crossed to rt., and 
the rocks are taken, to avoid a 
precipitous ice-fall. At the foot 
of a steep descent down the rocks 
and snow the glacier is returned 
to, and, leaning to the L, the rte. 
finally 

ljhr. Leaves glacier close to its 
foot. 

Chalet here, where it is possible 
to pass the night. Through grand 
scenery. 

4hrs. Evolena (Bte. 130). 



Rte. 134. -TURIN to AOSTA 
and COUEMAYEUE, by 
XVBEA.— The VAL D' AOSTA. 

TURIN to Eng. m. 

Eng. m. Chatillon (char) 15 

Chivasso (rly.) 14 Aosta „ 15 

( Ivrea „ 20 Courmayeur „ 25 

Donas (char) 12 

Turin to Courmayeur in 1 J day, 
sleeping at Aosta, or 1 very long 
day. 

The rly. now ends at Ivrea. 
No good inn below Aosta except 
Eosa Kossa. 

From Turin by rly. to 

14 m. Chivasso Stat The main line 
to Novara is left. 

20 ni. Ivrea Stat (Inns : none good ; 
H. de l'Europe best, but bad 
and dear, many complaints ; 
Lion d'Or) is a large walled 



town at the entrance of Val 
d'Aosta. The Doire flows below 
the Porte de Turin. Large 
market for cheese, and depot 
for iron from Cogne. Cotton- 
works. Pop. 8000. Massive old 
Castle now a prison. It is the 
ancient Eporedia. Strabo says 
that here 36,000 Salassi, made 
prisoners by Terentius Varro, 
were sold as slaves by public 
auction. 



The rly. ends at Ivrea, but there is a 
good carr. road to Courmayeur. Dili- 
gences, slow but cheap, to Aosta, and 
from Aosta to Pre St. Didier, whence 
passengers are sent on in a smaller carriage 
to Courmayeur. 

On leaving Ivrea the road 
ascends the 1. bank of the Doire, 
passes below the 

Old Castle of Montalto, and 

continues through the rich broad 
valley of the Doire to 

Pont St. Martin (Inn: Kosa 
Kossa, very fair and clean, land- 
lady has been in England). Here 
we are amidst the grand scenery 
of Val d'Aosta. Ascent to Gres- 
sonay, i3 m. (see Ete. 125). 

The lofty bridge to the Val de 
Vallese is a fine Eonian work. 

Donas. Here a rock, pierced 12 m. 
by the Komans, is passed through. 
Near it is a Roman milestone cut 
in the rock, noting xxxii. MP. A 
tolerable wine is grown at Donas. 

Fort Bard (Inn ; Sole, poor and 
dirty). The present road avoids 
the town, and skirts the rock on 
which stands the fort. 

Campaign of Marengo. This 

fort arrested for 8 days the French 
army under Buonaparte in 1800. It 
was garrisoned by only 400 Aus- 



479 Me. 134. — TURIN to A08TA and COUBMAYEUB. 480 



trians, yet such was the strength of 
the position that Buonaparte al- 
most despaired of carrying it. By 
the efficient placement of a single 
gun above the precipices which 
overhang Bard, the French 
checked the battery which 
covered the approach to the town, 
and the army passed through by 
night, muffling the wheels of 
their artillery and strewing the 
streets with litter. Another gun 
was then raised to a belfry, which 
commanded the gate of the fort ; 
and the Austrians, fearing an 
assault, surrendered. Upon such 
slight occurrences the fate of 
Europe turned. As the French 
army would have devoured the 
supply of Val d'Aosta in a few 
days, it must have retreated ; and 
the battle of Marengo would not 
have been fought. 

View looking back upon Fort 
Bard is a perfect picture. 

Above Bard, path up Val Cham- 
porcher to Cogne and Aosta, by 
Pass of Fenetre de Cogne : the 
main valley is narrow, and offers 
little variety. 

8m, Verrex (Inns: avoid Ecu de 
France — extortion ; Couronne), at 
the entrance to Val Challant, 9 
hrs. to Gressonay (Kte. 125). 
A new bridge and many new 
houses. 

Old Castle is worth a scramble. 

Above Verrex the valley 
widens ; and in 1 j league the road 
enters upon the pass of Mont 
Jovet. The Castle of St. Germain 
commands the pass. The road 
was probably Koman, though a 
modern inscribed tablet denies 
them the credit. From the head 
of the pass the view down is strik- 
ing. Immediately above it is the 
finest part of the Val d'Aosta, ex- 
tending to the Cite, as Aosta is 



called. Nothing can exceed the 
richness of the scenery, and the 
magnificence of the foliage : the 
walnut and chestnut trees are 
celebrated. 

Before St. Vincent is a singular 
bridge, the Pont des Sarasins, 
said to be a Koman work. From 
its parapet view towards Chatillon, 
including the CastKd'Usselle and 
other ruins. 

St. Vincent (Inns : Ecu de 5 m. | 
France ; — Lion d'Or ; better sleep- 
ing and other accommodation at 
the Succursale of the Lion d'Or 
than at Chatillon). This is an 
agreeable vill. Here is a Bath- 
house supplied from a mineral 
spring in the forest above. 

To Gressoney by the Col de Jon, 9 hrs. 
walk. 

Chatillon (Inns : Palais Koyal ; 2 m. 
Lion d' Or, — neither good). The 
ancient bridges are the most re- 
markable objects ; there are also 
pleasant walks and several cha- 
teaux in the neighbourhood. In 
the depth of the gulf, below 
the bridges, are forges placed 
for the sake of the water-power ; a 
wild path leads down to them. 
View from the bottom of the ra- 
vine. 

Up the Val Tournanche and over the 
Theodule Pass to Zermatt (Rte. 128) in 
14 hrs. 



Chambave vill., celebrated for3| m. 
its wine. The wine of the Val 
d'Aosta has some reputation, 
and the vine is cultivated on the 
mountain sides to an elevation of 
3000 ft. above the sea. In the 
valley, hemp, Indian corn, and 
fruit-trees fill the plain like a vast 
garden. 



Above Chatillon the same rich 
scenery prevails. 



481 



Bte. AOSTA. 



482 



4 m. Nuz. At the entrance of Val 
de St. Barthelemi is the Castle of 
Fenis. Near St. Marcel (opposite) 
are copper-mines, and the Fon- 
taine Bleue, of blue water, im- 
pregnated with copper. 

4 J m. The Chateau Quart is placed, 
rt., high on the mountain side. 
Its view repays the trouble of a 
climb. 

3J m. Aosta (Inns: *H. du Mt. Blanc, 
well kept by honest Jean Tairraz, 
of Ohamouni, good; Couronne 
(Post), improved; 7760 Inhab. ; 
attractive as a genuine Italian 
town. Its situation is indeed 
striking, — in a deep rich valley, 
surrounded by snow-capped nits., 
which peer down into its squares 
and streets. Aosta, the Augusta 
Pretoria of the Koman itineraries; 
claims a high antiquity. It was 
the chief city of the Salassi, 
taken by Terentius Varro 28 B.C. 
Augustus rebuilt the city, gave 
his own name to it, and established 
there 3000 soldiers from the Prae- 
torian cohorts. The remains of 
large public buildings attest its 
importance. Its plan, like that of 
most Roman cities, is a square. 

Aosta has been improved since 
1854; there is an Alpine club in 
the Hotel de Ville, accessible to 
strangers. 

Cathedral (modern) is covered 
with paint and whitewash. See 
woodwork in choir of the 14th 
cent. Monts. of D. Thomas of 
Savoy, and several Bps., two 
ancient mosaics. In the Tresor 
ancient shrines, plate, diptychs. 

St. Joseph Convent. — In the gar- 
den are the ruins of a Basilica or 
Praetorian palace. 

St. Ours Ch., of 3 aisles, tower 
of 12th cent., has an old crypt 
under the choir. S. of the ch. is 
a Romanesque cloister of early 

Kp. Switz. 



date; note the carving of the 
capitals. 

Triumphal arch, in honour of 
Augustus, 10 Corinthian pillars, 
covered with a modern roof. Be- 
j^ond the arch, in a narrow street, 
is a Roman bridge, which once 
spanned the Buttier, though now 
E. of it. It is partly buried. A 
conduit runs under it, and by its 
side a path ; so that you can walk 
under the arch. 

Roman Town Walls and Watch 
Towers are most accessible on the 
S. side. 

A double Roman Gateway on 
the E. side, not unlike the Porta 
Nigra at Treves. 

Tour de Bramafam and Tour 
du Lepreux are 2 mediaeval towers. 
The latter is described in Xavier 
de Maistre's well-known tale. 

Anselm, Archbishop of Canter- 
bury in the nth cent., was born 
at Aosta, and is buried in the ca- 
thedral. An inscribed stone re- 
cords the flight of Calvin (?) from 
Aosta, 15 41. 

Excursions. 
[a. Ascent of Becca di Nona, 
10,360 ft. (S. of Aosta and 8470 
ft. above it). Mule-path ; 6 Ins. 
up, 4 down. * First- class pa- 
noramic view, taking in the Alp- 
ine chain from Mt. Blanc to 
Monte Rosa. Take provisions. 
The view and full account of the 
mtn. is published by M. Carrel at 
Aosta. 

b. To Cogne, G hrs. in char to 
Aimaville, thence on foot. 

Cretinism and Goitre. — The 
beautiful valley of Aosta is more 
afflicted with these, than any other 
in Piedmont. The peasantry ap- 
pear squalid, stunted, and dis- 
eased; 1 person in 50 is a cretin, 
and above half are more or less 
goitred. Some of these are horrid 

R 



485 Bte. 134.— TURIN to AO ST A and CO UBMA YEXJB, 486 



objects. The extreme filth of the 
houses* villages, and persons of the 
* peasantry would be sufficient to 
account for any amount of disease ; 
but it is remarkable that in the 
spots they select these dreadful 
maladies seem to be capricious. 
At St. Vincent they prevail; at 
Chatillon, at Courmayeur, and at 
La Tuille, they are almost un- 
known ; and at Ivrogne and Arvier 
they are most prevalent. 

Language ; a barbarous patois. 
French is the official language. 

Diligences to Ivrea and Pre St. Didier 
daily. 

Ascending the valley, the drive 
lies through scenes of the greatest 
richness in vegetation. 

5 m. St. Pierre. Picturesque cha- 
teau. 

In approaching Yilleneuve, the 
great rock above the town appears 
surmounted by the Chatel d' Ar- 
gent, backed by the snowy Alps at 
the head of the Yal Savaranche. 

3 m. Villeneuve (neither decent inn 
nor car). Near this the valleys of 
Savaranche and Eh ernes open to- 
gether from the S. into the valley 
of the Doire. Above Villeneuve 
the valley narrows and becomes 
more wooded, the walnut-trees 
forming almost a forest, especially 
near 

2 m. Arvier. Here every slope is 
terraced, and vines planted. 

Views of Mont Blanc. 

Passing the high bridge over 
the Grisanche, *Vieiv of Mont 
Blanc closing the head of the 
valley with its masses.. The road 
is carried along a precipice. 

Fort Roc. The road descends 
rapidly to the Doire, which it 
crosses on a wooden -bridge, and 
thence continues on the 1. bank to 



La Salle, a dirty vill., to the 6 m. 
rt., in which the name is pre- 
served of the Salassi, the ancient 
people of this valley. Castle in 
ruins. 

Morgex. A league beyond it, 2 m. 
the diligence leaves the main road 
and crosses the Doire to 

Pre St. Didier vill. (Inns, all 3 m. 
poor; Poste; Kosa), beautiful 
meadows. Fine vieiv of Mont 
Blanc. 

[Here the ascent of the Little 
St. Bernard begins (Bte. 149).] 

Batlis behind the village are3ni. 
frequented by Italians. The build- 
ing and avenue to it are pleasing. 
A path leads up a ravine to the 
source of the waters (temp. 92 0 ) 
which is like that of Pfeffers. 
Enormous precipices of bare rock 
nearly close over the cleft in the 
mountains, down which the stream 
from the Kuitor and Little St. Ber- 
nard forces its way. 

A good and direct carriage-road now 
connects St. Didier with 

Courmayeur, 4098 ft. (Inns : 3 m. 
Hotel Eoyal, very good and com- 
fortable ; — Angelo, improved ; — 
1' Union ;— Mont Blanc, J m. above 
Courmayeur, less civilised, but 
finely situated), is a large vill. 
at the head of Val dAosta, or 
Val d'Entreves. That part of the 
chain of Mt. Blanc seen from the 
village includes the peak and col 
of the Geant. The whole mtn. is 
seen J hr. walk up the valley of 
Ferrcx. 

Mineral ivaters (sulph. magn. 
and iron with Garb, acid gas) arc 
much resorted to by Italians. 

La Saxe baths arc 1 m. beyond 
the village, and are rough. 

b 2 



487 Mte. 134:.— COUBMAYEUR— EXCURSIONS. 



488 



Guides and mules on the same foot- 
ing as those at Chamouni, except that, 
on payment of a fee, the traveller is able 
to select. Guide's charges are 6 fr. for a 
day ; 3 fr. for £ a day, viz. before ; or after 
12 o'clock. Otto Bion and Valentine 
Ray are 2 of the best. There is a family 
of several brothers named Proment, who 
are also good guides. 

Excursions. 

a. Ascent of the Cramont. — 
Grand panorama. 5 hrs. up, 4 
down ; mule-path to 1 J hr. of top. 
Grass very slippery. Ladies should 
have nails put into their boots. 

1 hr. Pre St. Didier, thence 
up the Little St. Bernard road. 

J hr. Turn rt. through larches 
past groups of chalets. 

2 hrs. Horse-path ends. Over 
grass slopes. 

1 J. Top, 9040 ft., precipitous 
to N. Chamois are often seen 
about it. View N. of the whole 
of the enormous mass of Mt. Blanc, 
E. of the Val d'Aosta, and, in the 
distant background, of Monte Kosa 
and Mt. Cervin. S.E . is the Camp 
of Prince Thomas, and the table- 
land above La Tuille. Above and 
beyond it lies the enormous glacier 
of the Kuitor. N.E. the hospice 
of Gt. St. Bernard is hidden ; but 
Mt. Velan and the Combin are 
seen beyond it. S. is the pass and 
plain of the Little St. Bernard. 

Descent. — The guides sit down, 
and slide with speed over the dry 
grass. 

b. Col de Cliecruit. — Uninter- 
rupted view of the chain of Mt. 
Blanc and the Allee Blanche. 
Mule-path, 2 hrs. up. Cross the 
Doire ; through the Dolina vill., 
then along 1. bank of the torrent. 
— J hr. Ascend the side of the 
ravine by steep zigzags. — J hr. 
Oratory, on a rock ; thence over 
steep slopes of grass to — 1 hr. 



The Col . Best view from a rock 
rt. of the Col. No guide needed. 
[A footpath, Jhr. below the Col, 
leads in 1 J hr. to the Mt. Chetif, 
also called Mont Dolina and Pain 
de Sucre. Fine view, but inferior 
to the Cramont.] By continuing 
till above the Lac de Combal (Bte. 
139), then descending to the (1 hr.) 
Lake, you overlook the Glacier of 
Miage which impedes the view 
of Mt. Blanc from the Allee 
Blanche. For this latter part of 
the excursion, a guide is advisable. 
From Lac de Combal, return back 
to (2 J hrs.) Courmayeur. 

c. Mont de la Saxe, 2 J hrs. Fine 
near view of Mont Blanc. After 
passing the baths of La Saxe, the 
track, rt., to Yal Ferrex is followed, 
and then the ascent begins by an 
easy path. The summit is an un- 
dulating plateau. The finest view 
is from an eminence called the 
Croix de Bernada. 

d. Glacier de Brenva is best 
approached from the N., taking 
the track to Entreves vill. Thence 
visit the cavern at the foot of the 
gl., and ascend by a track, which 
leads to a plank thrown over a 
torrent, otherwise difficult to pass. 
Above this there is no difficulty 
in selecting a spot by which to 
mount the glacier, here very free 
from crevasses. It is easy to cross 
it and approach Mont Peteret, the 
principal buttress, which on the 
S. side sustains the central mass 
of Mt. Blanc. Chamois are often 
to be seen on its ledges. Return- 
ing, the glacier may be followed 
to where it bridges the Done and 
abuts against the S. side of the 
Allee Blanche, below the ch. of 
Notre Dame de la Guerison ; 
thence take the horse-path to Cour- 
mayeur. 



489 Rte. 135.— MARTIGNY to AOSTA. 490 



From Martigny (Ete. 56), the 
road passes through 



e. Mont Frety (Inn, 2 J hrs. at the 
southern base of the Col du Geant ; 
complaints made of its dearness in 
1861). From thence, with a guide, 
a mountaineer will find no diffi- 
culty in reaching the Col. Mag- 
nificent view. < The guide will not 
fail to point out the scene of the 
accident of i860, wherein 3 Eng- 
lish travellers and 1 of their 
guides — Frederic Tairraz, of Cha- 
mouni — were lost in descending 
the Col. 

Five routes diverge from Courmayeur : 
1, to Aosta ; 2, to tbe Great St. Bernard 
(Rte. 137) ; 3, the Little St. Bernard (Rte. 
149) ; 4, the Col de la Seigne to Chamouni 
(Rte. 139) ; 5, the Col Ferrex to Martigny 
(Rte. 139). 



Rte. 135. - MARTIGNY to 
AOSTA.— PASS of the GREAT 
ST. BERNARD. 

MARTIGNY to Hrs. walk. 

Orsieres, road level thus far . .4 
Liddes, diligence stops here . . i£ 

' St. Proz, char-road ends here . . 2£ 

Hospice 2 

St. Remy, char-road begins again i£ 
* Aosta 4I 

This pass is more remarkable 
for its Hospice, monks, dogs, and 
history, than for its scenery. 

Guides, mules, and chars may he hired 
at Martigny, Orsieres, or Liddes. To 
Liddes, a small dil. in morning, returning 
in aft. Or take char to Orsieres (the 
road is level), or to Liddes, and walk on. 
Or hire 30 fr. char, 1 to 3 seats, with 2 
horses to Cantine de Proz, and ride the 
second horse on. Char from St. Remy to 
Aosta. 



Bourg-Martigny, and shortly J hr. 
after crosses the Drance. [Horse- 
path to Chamouni on the rt.] our 
rte. continues up its valley. Soon 
after, the road enters a defile so 
narrow that a Tunnel (200 ffc.) is 
cut through the rock. Emerg- 
ing from it, see, 1., ruined Con- 
cent, overwhelmed with rubbish 
brought down by the bursting of 
the lake in Val Bagnes, 18 18 
(Ete. 136). 

St. Branchier ( Inn : Croix, 3 hrs. 
cheap), a dirty village at the con- 
fluence of the two branches of the 
Dranse [1. Val. de Bagnes] our 
route lies rt. up Val Entremont, 
in which there are some fine 
scenes, but none strikingly grand. 

Guides and mules to the Pierre 
a Voir. 

Eoad on a moderate ascent as 
far as 

Orsieres (Inn: H. des Alpes,l hr. 
pretty good and moderate). Here 
Val Ferrex opens into Val Entre- 
mont. [To Courmayeoi- (Rte. 
137). To Chamouni, by a plea- 
sant path to Trient (Ete. 141), 
passing the lake of Champe'."} 

The scenery now becomes rather 
more wild, the ascent steeper. 



St. Pierre, a wretched vill. 1 hr. 
(Napoleon's passage, May 16, 
1800). Here is a military column 
to the younger Constantino. Ch. 
dates from the nth centy. 



Liddes (Inns: H. de rUnion;lJ hr. 
H. d'Angleterre : none to be re- 
commended). 

A char to Martigny may generally be 
had for 8 fr. The charge for each mule 
from Liddes to the hospice is 6 fr., and 
bonnemain. 



491 



Bte. 1S5.—GBEA T ST. BEBNABD. 



492 



Guides. — The brothers Ballay, 
of St. Pierre, excellent for the 
higher Alps of this district. 

The road now crosses a gorge, 
and leaves on the L a torrent from 
Val Sorey [in which there is. not 
far from St. Pierre, a magnificent 
cascade. J 

The road formerly led through 
the forest of St. Pierre, by so 
steep and tortuous a path, that 
Napoleon's difficulties in trans- 
porting his artillery were here, 
perhaps, the greatest that he en- 
countered. 

Beyond the forest are pas- 
turages and chalets. Ml Yelan 
appears to bar progress : some of 
its glaciers, particularly that of 
Menouve, stream down into the 
pastoral plain of Proz. 

ljhr. Can tine de Proz (little Inn]. 
Here the char-rd. ceases. 

[Ascent and descent of Mont 
Yelan can be made in 12 hrs. or 
less ; Dorsat, who keeps the Can- 
teen, is an excellent guide.] 

Above the plain of Proz the 
path enters another defile, and be- 
yond it another pasturage: the 
scenes become more sterile. At 
length, after crossing some beds 
of snow, appear the solitary walls 
of the 

2 hrs. Hospice (8200 ftA a inassive 
stone building, on the very highest 
point of the pass. There is no 
mountain which bears the name 
of St. Bernard. Like that of St. 
Gotthard, the name is only given 
to the pass. The chief buildiDg 
holds 70 or 80 beds j 300 may be 
sheltered; and between 5oo*and 
600 have received assistance in 
one day. Besides this, there is a 
house on the other side of the way, 



built as a refuge in case of fire — an 
event which has twice happened. 
The ground-floor of the main 
building consists of stabling, store- 
room for wood, fodder, &c. A 
flight of steps leads up to the prin- 
cipal entrance in the first floor of 
the building, where a long cor- 
ridor connects the offices, &c, with 
the chapel. Another corridor on 
the floor above leads to the dor- 
mitories, the refectory, the gallery 
of the chapel, &c. 

Drawing-room, appropriated to 
the reception of strangers, espe- 
cially ladies, is entered from the 
stairs between the two corridors. 
The room is large and convenient : 
it contains many presents sent 
by travellers in acknowledgment 
of the attentions they had re- 
ceived from the brethren. The 
piano was a present from H.B.H. 
the Prince of Wales, and is not a 
little prized. The harmonium is 
from Bliimenthal. Attached to this 
room is a cabinet, which contains 
collections of the natural history 
of the Alps, and relics of Jupiter's 
Temple, which formerly stood 
near the site of the hospice. 

Cla randier (or Bursar) is the 
brother who usually presides at 
the hours of u| and 6, dinner and 
sapper. Gentlemen dine or sup 
with all the monks in their refec- 
tory. 

Chapel of the hospice (date 
r68o) is well attended on Sun- 
days and Festas, when the 
weather is fair, by the peasants 
from the neighbouring Alps. It 
contains the grave of General 
Dessaix, who fell at Marengo, 
after having contributed mainly 
to that victory. His monument 
was erected by Napoleon. 

Donations. — In the chapel there 
is a box for donations in aid of the 



493 Rte. 135.— GREAT ST. BERNARD. 494 



establishment. Travellers should 
put in a sum not less than they 
would have paid for equal accom- 
modation at an inn. The revenues 
of the convent are very limited, 
and ought to be spent upon those 
only who cannot afford to pay. 

Monks. — Visitors universally 
acknowledge the kind and cour- 
teous attention they receive from 
the monks. During their short 
summers, then* intercourse with 
well-informed travellers is exten- 
sive, as shown in the names and 
notices left by travellers in the 
albums at the hospice. They are 
freely communicative about then- 
establishment, and conversation 
has no restraint but in the respect 
which their characters demand. 
They are usually io or 12, of the 
Augustine order, and a number of 
assistant lay brethren (niarron- 
niers). They are all young men, 
who enter upon this devoted ser- 
vice at 18. The severities of the 
weather in the winter, at this 
height, commonly impair their 
health, and they are driven to retire 
to a lower and more genial clime, 
with broken constitutions and 
ruined health. The hospice is 
rarely four months clear of deep 
snow. The drifts sometimes accu- 
mulate to the height of 40 ft. 
The severest cold recorded is 29 0 
below zero of Fahrenheit : it has 
often been observed at 18 0 and 
20 0 below. The greatest heat 
has been 68° in the height of 
summer. 

Dogs and Winter Travellers. — 
Travellers are passing every day 
during the winter, notwithstand- 
ing the perils of such a pass at 
such times. These persons, when 
they arrive at a refuge-house, 
near the summit, are desired 
to wait till the following morn- 



ing, when a servant and a dog 
descend from the hospice and 
take up all the persons assembled, 
the servant being conducted by 
the dog, who, it appears, never 
misses his way, but, sometimes 
entirely hidden except his tail, in 
the snow, directs the march of the 
whole cavalcade. The stories 
about the monks going out search- 
ing for lost travellers, and the 
dogs carrying wine, are false in 
toto ; and the proof is, that such 
proceeding is impossible, for as 
great difficulty exists to the 
monks roaming about as to the 
travellers. This labour of the 
dogs is so great, that their life 
never exceeds 9 years, owing to 
attacks of rheumatism, which is 
the bane of both dog and man up 
here. The infirm dogs are gene- 
rally killed. 

As many as 2000 travellers 
per month pass in February and 
March, because the poor in- 
habitants of the valleys are then 
going out to seek work ; in Novem- 
ber they come home in equal 
numbers with money in their 
pockets. In the course of 1844, 
19,000 travellers passed over the 
mountain. 

History. — The first foundation 
of the hospice has been attributed 
by some to Louis le Debonnaire, 
by others to Charlemagne. There 
is historical evidence that a mo- 
nastery existed on the Great St. 
Bernard before the year 85 1. The 
present hospice was founded in 
962, by Bernard, who was born of 
a noble family of Savoy, and be- 
came Archdeacon of Aosta, While 
residing there, his frequent inter- 
course with pilgrims and travel- 
lers probably suggested to him 
this work of mercy. For some 
time after the death of St. Ber- 



495 



Bte. 135.— GREAT ST. BEEN ABB. 



496 



St. Remy {Inn : H. des Alpes, 1J hr, 
indifferent;, dreary vilL Italian 
Frontier. Here the Italian cus- 
tom-house is placed. 

Return char to Aosta may generally 
be had for io fr. Travellers "who leave 
Aosta to visit the hospice, in a char for 
St. Remy, and intend to return, cause it 
to wait for them there for 4 or 6 hrs. f 
and pay 20 fr. for the char for the day, 
"with a buono mano to the postilion. But 
it generally happens that the traveller 
crosses the mountain, in which case he 
pays 12 fr. for the char, and the pos- 
tilions wait tiirthe evening for customers 
descending from the Great St. Bernard, 
and it is seldom that they are disappointed 
in a fare. 

The road descends, with little 
interest in the scenery, to 



St. Oyen. 1J hr. 



At Gignod, the vegetation be- 2 J hrs, 
gins to luxuriate, and the Italian 
side of the mountain is felt and 
seen. A fine peep into the Val 
Pellina. Henceforward the rich- 
ness of the scenery constantly in- 
creases. Trellised vines and In- 
dian corn mark the approach to 
Yal d' Aosta ; and the first view 
of the city and the valley, where 
the background is filled with the 
snowy summits of the mts. above 
Yal de Cogne, is very fine indeed, 



nard (in 1008) the hospice was 
exposed to outrages from barba- 
rians ; and its records of the nth 
centy. present a succession of 
calamities. In the contests of 
Frederic Barbarossa with Pope 
Alexander III. and Humbert 
count of Maurienne, diplomas of 
protection were given by them to 
the persons and property of the 
monastery. It soon acquired cele- 
brity and opulence. Its climax 
of importance was in 14.80. The 
Reformation, and other causes, 
drove the monks of St. Bernard 
to seek even alms. Their 
present resources are small, and 
in aid of them collections are 
regularly made in the Swiss can- 
tons. Buonaparte impoverished 
the monks. He assisted them 
with donations, but his claims 
upon their funds exceeded his 
benefits. They had 40 men quar- 
tered upon them for months toge- 
ther, and 60,000 passed in one 
season, and all these had been 
assisted. 

Morgue, the receptacle for the 
dead, is a scene of melancholy 
interest usually visited on the 
St. Bernard. It is a low building 
E. of the convent, where the 
bodies of the victims to storms 
and avalanches are placed. 



Aosta (Rte. 134). 1J hr. 



Descent. On leaving the 
hospice, the path skirts the lake. 
A little beyond it, after passing 
a short defile, the scene opens 
towards Italy, into the basin of 
the 



Vacherie, where the cows of 
the convent are pastured. View 
of mtns. on the opposite side. The 
rd. turns abruptly to the rt., and 
sweeps round the basin to descend 
in zigzags to the plain below. 



497 Bte. 136. — VAL BE B AGNES — GETBOZ. 498 



Rte. 136. — MARTIGNY to 
AOSTA, by the VAL BE 
BAGNES, the COL BES FE- 
NETEES, and VAL PELLIKA. 



MARTIGNY to 

Hrs. walk. 
Chables (char) 4 
Lourtier „ . i£ 
Getroz or Mau- 

voisin (mule) 2$ 
Chennontaine 



Hrs. walk, 
(foot) . . 4 
Col des Fene- 

tres (foot) . i£ 
Valpellina (foot) 4 
Aosta (8 m.) 
(char) . . 2i 



The Inn at Getroz makes this 
fine valley at length conveniently 
accessible. 

Martigny, by Ete. 135 to 

hrs. St. Branchier. Thence a char- 
road leads up the fertile^valley of 
Bagnes to 

ljhr. Chables (H. Perrodin, Mi- 
country Inn), the principal vill. 
in the valley. 

Champsec (small Inn being 
built). 

lhr. Lourtier (no Inn), the last 
vill. 

Char-road ends, bridle-path begins. 

The gorge of the Drance now 
becomes narrower. It opens out 
somewhat at the 

Jhr. Junction of Stream, rl, from 
the Gl. of Corbassiere that comes 
from the Grand Combin (or 
Graff eneire), 14,134 ft. 

lhr. Getroz, or Pont do Mauvoisin : 
Hotel on height overlooking the 
glacier. Bertrand Trolliet, of tl lis 



place, is the best guide in the 
valley. This is likely to become 
favourite quarters for moun- 
taineers, 011 account of the num- 
ber of passes that lead from the 
head of the valley. It is 1 m. 
below the glaciers of Getroz. 

Debacle. — The fall of ice and 
snow from these glaciers, descend- 
ing from Mt. Pleureur, has twice 
dammed the course of the Drance, 
and formed a lake which, when it 
burst, ravaged the valley. The 
first event was. in 1595; the 
second, far more serious, in 1818. 
By the cutting of a gallery 
through the ice, the lake was 
partially drained, but before it 
could be wholly emptied, the 
ice-dam gave way. During an 
J hr. a 5 times greater quantity 
of water passed through the 
breach than the waters of the 
Ehine at Basle. In ij hr. the 
water reached Martigny, 20 miles. 
Through the first 12 miles, it 
passed with the velocity of 22 
miles per horn. It was charged 
with ice, rocks, earth, trees, houses, 
cattle, and men ; 34 persons were 
lost, and 400 cottages swept away. 
If the dike had remained un- 
touched, and if it could have 
endured the pressure until the lake 
had reached the level of its top, 5 
times as large a volume of water 
would have accumulated, and a 
far more fatal devastation must 
have been the consequence. From 
this great danger the people of 
the valley of the Drance were pre- 
served by the heroism of brave 
men who tunnelled the dike and 
tapped the lake, under the direc- 
tion of M. Venetz the engineer. 

The valley now becomes grander : 
path crosses 

Bed of glacier - lake, whose 1} hr. 
bursting did so muoh mischief. 



499 Bte. 137. — MABTIGNY to COTJBMAYEUB. 500 



of the river till it joins the main 
road, about 2 m. from 



1 J hr. Torembec chalets. Those who 
wish to cross the glaciers can 
sleep there. 

The valley now turns to the 
S.E. ,* several glaciers come into 
sight, that of Breney, 1., then that 
of Durand, rt, (from Mt. Combin), 
stretching over the Drance. It 
lias to be traversed in order to 
reach 

2 J Ins. Chermontaine chalets and 
pastures. These are on a larger 
scale than usual, and afford quar- 
ters for mountaineers; but a 
chalet is, at the best, a very com- 
fortless stopping-place. 

[Ascent of Moid Avril, 4 hrs. 
View of the neighbouring snow- 
peaks.] 

[To Evolena by Col clu Mt. 
Rouge, &c., a laborious glacier 
pass.] 

Easy ascent to the 

l|hr. Col des Fenetres, 9213 ft. 
Calvin fled by this pass from Aosta 
in 1541. 

*View towards Italy of the nits, 
of Cogne and the glaciers of 
Euitor. Beneath is the deep val- 
ley of Ollomont, enclosed by 
ridges of pyramidal aiguilles, fan- 
tastically grand. 

Descent by the base of the 
peaky ridges of Mont Gelee, pass- 
ing a small lake, and reaching the 
pastures. 

Balme is the first hamlet. 

Ollomont. Here are traces of 
a Eoman aqueduct for the supply 
of water to Augusta Pretoria 
(Aosta). Thence the road de- 
scends through 

4 hrs. Val Pellina vill., whence the 
char-road leads along the 1. bank 



Aosta (Rte. 134). 2J hrs. 



Rte, 137.— MARTIGNY to 

COUHMAYEUR. 



Martigny (Ete. 135) to 

Orsieres, 2894 ft. Turn rt.4hrs. 

up Val F err ex (which is the name 
given to the valley on the Swiss 
side mounting to the Col, as well 
as to the Piedmont ese valley de- 
scending from the Col. The latter 
forms a continuation of the Allee 
Blanche). 

Issert vill. Thence ascent J hr. 
to the higher hamlets of Pra le 
Fort and Branche. The intns. 



MARTIGNY to 

Hrs. 
a. Chalets of 

Ferrex . . 7 
Courmayeur . 5 



Hrs. 

h. Ch. of Ferrex 7.^ 
St. Bernard . 4 
Col Serena . 4 
Courmayeur . 6 



Char, or 4 hrs. walk, to Orsieres (Rte. 
135). Thence there are 2 convenient 
routes to Courmayeur :— 

a. By the Swiss and the Italian valleys 
of Ferrex. Mule-path, 12 hrs. — 1 long 
day from Martigny. 

b. To St. Bernard, 1st day, by Col de la 
Fenetre. Thence by the Col do Serena, 9 
hrs. the 2nd day.— 2 days from Martigny. 



a. Col de Ferrex, 

The scenery on the Piedmont ese 
side is grand, but wants variety. 



501 Bte. 137. — MABTIGNY to COTJBMA YETJB. 502 



cipice which the path passes. It 
guides the ascending traveller. 



W. are lofty, and crowned with 
glaciers of the chain of Mont 
Blanc, viz., the Salena, Portalet, 
and Neuve, up a succession of flat 
divisions of the valley. 

2hrs. Chalets de Folie (5240 ft.), 
rt., short transversal valleys from 
the N.E. of the Mt. Blanc chain 
filled with glaciers. [Path to 
another Col, closer to Mt. Blanc, 
called Little Ferrex. It is not a 
mule-path, and the distant views 
are inferior. It re-unites with 
our rte. at Pre de Bar.] 

1 hr. Chalets of Ferrex. Near these, 
two paths separate, [1. to the 
Great St. Bernard, 3! hrs., on 
over the Col de la Fenetre,] that 
the rt. to the Col Ferrex. 

Part of Swiss Val Ferrex be- 
longs to the Convent of the Great 
St. Bernard. The brethren obtain 
from it all their wood and some 
hay, which is conveyed to them 
by mules over the Col de la 
Fenetre. 

ljhr. Col de Ferrex. View towards 
Piedmont ; celebrated by Saus- 
sure. The eye is carried through 
the Allee Blanche, 30 m., to the 
Col. de la geigne. Numerous 
glaciers stream on the rt. into 
the valley from Mt. Blanc ; but 
the " Monarch " himself is not 
seen — the Grand Jorasse and the 
Geant conceal him. In the oppo- 
site direction, the Swiss Val Fer- 
rex is bounded on either side by 
lofty mts., and the distance is 
limited only by the Bernese Alps. 

Descent is over a soft slaty soil, 
in which the tracks of cattle have 
cut deep trenches. 



Pre de Bar chalets. ( Inn : 1 J hr. ' 

tolerable.) The glacier of Triolet 
sweeps down rt. The road de- 
scends by a fatiguing patli 
through a scene of Alpine deso- 
lation. The valley is narrow, 
and each rift on the rt. has its 
glacier hanging from the summit. 
There are 7 distinct glaciers. A 
few miserable villages and more 
than half the length of the valley 
is passed before Mt. Blanc is seen. 
When its prodigious mass opens 
to the view, the effect is over- 
whelming. 



Courmayeur (Ete. 134). 2 J hrs. 

b. Col de la Fenetre and St. 
Bernard. 

Martigny. As before, to 

Chalets de Ferrex. Thence 7| hrs. 
by the way the hay and wood are 
fetched to the convent, through 
Col de la Fenetre, to 

Hospice St. Bernard. Thence, 4 j irs# 
as in Bte. 135, to 

St. Remy. Here turn rt. to ji nr< 
Bosses vill., then through fields. 

Foot of Col. Up through aj nr# 
pine forest, past chalets. 

Col de Serena. View towards 2 hrs. 
Mont Blanc. Ptarmigan and 
chamois. Descent by a stony 
path to 

Morges. 4 hrs. 



Entreves vill. is left on the rt. 
Path winds by the side of the 
mountain. 



Jhr. Cross on the edge of a pre- 



Courmayeur. 



2 hrs. 



503 



Bte. 138.— GENEVA to CHAMOUNIX. 



504 



lies. The road runs up by the 
Arve. 

Bridge over Menoge. Then 2 J 
in succession Nangy vill., Con- 
tamines, and the 2 ruined towers 
of Faucigny Castle to the 1. 

The Mole mtn. is now an im- 
posing object. Through an avenue 
of trees to 



Rte. 138. — GENEVA to 
CHAMOUNIX. 

GENEVA to Eng. m. 

Eng. m. St. Martin . i8£ 
Bonneville . 17^ Chamounix. . 17* 

Diligence to Sallenches and St. Martin 
(6 hrs.), there exchanged for light post 
chars suited to the road, which is very 
rough and steep — well suited for the 
pedestrian, and, though only 17 m., takes 
5 hrs. 

Do not be deluded into taking return 
tickets, by diligence or otherwise, to 
Geneva. " 

Travellers intending to go from Cha- 
mounix to Marligny should send their 
heavy luggage direct from Geneva to 
Martigny. 

The French are making a carriage-road 
n the 1. bank of the Arve from Sallenches 
to Chamounix. 

Geneva is left by the Grande 
Place and the new quarter on the 
site of the levelled Porte de Eive. 
For some miles the road is lined 
with neat villas and gardens, and 
offers Views of the 1. Voirons, rt. 
Mont Saleve, the picturesque red 
Chateau de Mornex, and the 
range of the Jura. 

2 m. Chesne, vill. The road crosses 
the Foron, which is the frontier 
of Savoy. 

2 m. Trench Douane at Anne- 
masse. On the rising ground be- 
yond, the Mole, 5 800 ft., a coni- 
cal mtn., conceals the hollow up 
which the course to Chamounix 



Bonneville (Inns : Couronne ; 10 J 
Balances), before the annexation 
to France the chief place in the 
province of Faucigny. Pop. 2000. 

[Ascent of the Mole, 3 J hrs.] 

[Road to Annecy, and thence 
rail to Aix-les-Bains (Rte. 152).] 

[Road to Sixt by Tanninges ; 
diligence (Rte. 143).] 

At the end of the stone bridge, 
built 1753, over the Arve, is a 
cohunn, 95 ft. high, surmounted 
by a statue of King Carlo Felice 
of Sardinia. 

The road now lies between the 
Mole and the Mont Brezon, and 
continues close under the latter 
until it enters 

Cluses (Inns: Parfaite Union ;9| 
Ecu de France), Pop. 1600, at 
the mouth of a defile, burned 
down 1864. The artisans pre- 
pare movements of watches in a 
rough state, for the manufac- 
turers of Geneva and Germany. 

The valley now becomes a nar- 
row ravine ; in some places its 
cliffs overhang. The scenery is 
as beautiful as it is wild. 

La Balme hamlet. [Mules 2J 

are kept for a visit to the grotto 
of La Balme — 2 hrs. : it is 800 ft. 
above the Arve, 1800 ft. in length, 
but scarce worth the trouble.] 

Magland, straggling vill. 1J 

Kant d'Arpenaz Cascade, 3J 



505 Etc. 138.— GENEVA to CHAMOUN1X. 506 



Stream is small, but the fall is 
high and graceful. Crowds of 
vagabonds. 

The valley increases in width, 
and rich fields spread up the base 
of the Douron ; on the 1. the peak 
of the Aiguille de Varens, 8ooo ft. 

2Jm. St. Martin '(Inns: Mt. Blanc, 
good, better than any at Sal- 
lenches ; Croix Blanche). 

For carriages, see Sallenches below. 

Pedestrians do not cross the bridge, but 
walk direct, in 5 m., up the rt. bank of 
the Arve, to Chede, saving 3% m. 

Within a hundred yards of the 
inn a bridge crosses the Arve, and 
leads to Sallenches, J mile from 
St. Martin. From this bridge 
noble view of Mt. Blanc ; its stu- 
pendous mass is sharp and clear, 
and seems quite close, though 12 
miles off. 

1 m. Sallenches (Inns : Bellevue ; 
Leman) is a little town of wide, 
straight streets, rebuilt after fire 
1840. 

At St. Martin, or Sallenches, the heavy 
dil. is changed for a lighter one, for the 
road becomes bad.;i For a considerable 
distance vehicles can only go at a foot's 
pace. Chars, mules, and. guides in abun- 
dance. A char to Chamounix (without 
return) 12 fr. ; with 2 horses 18 fr. 
Postilion, pourboire, 2 fr. extra. The 
tariff should be consulted ; it is the same 
in both places. 

5 m. Bridge across Bon Kant. 

[Rt. by Sallenches to St.Gervais 
baths, si m., an agreeable drive. 
Views of the peak of Varens. St. 
Gervais is a fairy spot, in a beauti- 
ful valley ; accommodation en pen- 
sion, hot mineral baths for the 
sick, and delightful walks for the 
convalescent. The waters are at 
105 0 Fahr. ; they contain iron and 
sulphur. At the back of the 
house, up the glen, is the Cascade 
du Bon Nant, not large, but ex- 



tremely picturesque. English 
travellers prefer to live in the 
clean and comfortable H. du Mt. 
Joly on the height above, and to 
descend daily to the baths. Near 
St. Gervais is a quarry of red 
jaspar. 

St. Gervais is 1 m. distant from 
Chede on the high carriage-road 
to Chamounix, besides which there 
are 2 mule-paths from St. G. 

a. By the Col de Voza, 5 hrs. ; 
noble view of the chain of Mont 
Blanc. 

b. By the Col de la Forclaz, 
shorter, but less interesting.] 

Rt. bank of the Arve above St. 
Martin. 

The valley of the Arve now 
spreads into a wide plain, like a 
drained lake-basin. Traces are 
still to be seen of the flood of 185 2, 
which destroyed nearly all the 
bridges from Chamouni to St. 
Martin. Views from time to time. 
The Arve is crossed between St. 
Gervais and 

Chede ; the road ascends above 3 
the Arve. 1. a cascade. 

Servoz vill. (Inn: rUnivers, 3 
tolerable). Here the horses are 
rested. View of the summit of 
Mont Blanc, which is concealed 
nearer to Chamouni. 

[Ascent of the JBuet (Etc. 143.) 
To VaUey of Sixt, by the Col 
d'Anterne; mule-path (Ete. 143).] 

After crossing the Dioza, near 
the adit of a copper-mine, the road 
lies close under the Breven Mt., 
between it and the Arve. 

Pont Pelissier. After crossing 1 J 
it, a steep stony ascent begins up 

Les Montets. The Arve on the 
1. rushes down, as by a staircase. 
Arrived at the top of this steep, 



507 



Me. m-CHAMOUNIX— GUIDES. 



508 



you find yourself in an upper 
story of the valley of the Arve. 

The mass of Mt. Blanc, now 
close, is magnificent ; but the 
summit is concealed by the Dome 
du Goute. 

The course from the Montets 
lies through some fine meadows 
to 

2 m. Folly vill. 

[To St. Gervais, by Col de Voza 
and the Col du Bonliomme (Kte. 
139).] 

1 m. Les Ouches, the first village in 
the valley of Chamounix. Fine 
honey. 

The white lines of glaciers now 
begin to be seen. The first is 
that of Taconey. It is, however, 
so mere a line compared with the 
vastness of other objects around, 
that the traveller will probably 
be disappointed in its apparent 
size. 

2Jm. Bossons, hamlet, and near it 
the glacier of Bossons. View of it 
from the Pavilion.] 

[2 r m. short of Chamouni, path, 
rt., to Cascade die Dcwd.J 

At the Head of the Valley be- 
yond Chamouni is now seen the 
Glacier du Bois, the largest in 
the valley, and the terminus of 
the Mer de Glace. 

2 J m. Chamouni, or Chamounix. 

Inns: Hotel Eoyal de 1'TJnion — two 
houses belonging to the same proprietor ; 
that on the S. side of the river has the best 
rooms ; — Hotel de Londres et d' Angleterre 
has also two houses ; table d'hote, 4 fr. : 
both these are excellent ; — H. Grand Im- 
perial, very comfortable; — H. du ISTord, 
moderate ; — H. du Mont Blanc ; visitors 
are taken en pension. 

The mineral warm baths, hi the prin- 
cipal inns, are most refreshing after the 
fatigue of mountain walks. 

No lack of reading-rooms ; mineral 
dealers ; model of Mt. Blanc, &c. 



Banker, M. Nerond. 

English Church, built by sub- 
scription in i860, 200 seats; cost 
1340Z. ; outside the town on rt. 
of road to the Montanvert. 

Chamounix, Pop. 2300, is the 
resort of visitors of all ranks and 
of all nations, who have converted 
into the semblance of a bustling- 
watering-place what was once 
the most retired of Alpine val- 
leys, about 3250 ft. above the 
sea. 

The village of Chamouni, or 
Le Prieure, as it is sometimes 
called, from a Bened. convent, was 
founded about 1090. It was, 
Messrs. "Wyndham and Pococke's 
excursion to Chamouni, and their 
report of it in the Royal Society' 's 
Transactions, in 1741, which &i- 
rected general attention towards 
this disregarded valley. Saus- 
sure's first visit was 1760. 15 or 
16 glaciers descend from Mont 
Blanc toward the valley of the 
Arve. 

Guides, Mules, and all affairs 
connected with them, are regu- 
lated by the state. They are 
placed under the management of 
a guide en chef, and ruled by an 
elaborate code of laws and tariff 
of charges, which all must obey. 
To the bureau of the guide en 
chef application must be made for 
guides. The men are inscribed 
in a book, and subjected to an 
examination as well as' the mules : 
and each takes iris turn (tour de 
role). If a guide be taken out of 
his turn a fine of 25 fr. is levied 
on him. But Members of the 
Alpine Club, and those who can 
give evidence of having made 
several of the greater expeditions, 
are now exempt from all restric- 
tions in selecting their guides. 
The tour de role may also be 



509 Bte. 138. — CHAMO UNIX — MONTANVER T. 



510 



superseded by travellers about to 
undertake one of the greater expe- 
ditions, those engaged in scien- 
tific pursuits, those who require a 
guide that knows his language, 
those who desire to re-engage a 
guide of former years, and ladies 
who are unattended by a gentle- 
man. 

The Excursions about Chamounix are 
divided into Courses Ordinaires and 
Extraordinaires, for all of which there 
are charges fixed by tariff, which the tra- 
vellers should obtain from the guide en 
chef. 

a. Cascade du Dard and Glacier des 

Bossons, 4 fr. 50 c. 

b. and /. Montanvert, Mer -de Glace, 

Arveiron, 6 fr. 

d. Croix de Flegere, 6 fr. 

g. Do. with Chapeau in 1 day, 12 fr. 

c. Jardin and back by the Chapeau, 12 fr. 

h. Col de Balme, 6 fr.; with cascades of 

Berard and Barberine in 1 day, 9 fr. 
Col de Balme, and back by Tete 
Noire, 9 fr. 
j. Buet,and descent to Sixt in 1 day, 15 fr. ; 
2 days, 20 fr. (guide for return 8 fr.) ; 
Sixt, by Brevent and Col d'Anterne, 
in 1 day, 18 fr. 

e. Brevent by Plainpraz, 8 fr. ; from 

Flegere. 

Martigny by Col de Balme or Tete 

Noire, return included, 12 fr. 
Cormayeur by Cols de la Seigne or 
Bonhomme, in 2 days, 15 fr.; 3 days, 
20 fr. (return of guide, 12 fr.), 
N.B. — The charge for mules is generally 
the same as for guides. 

Courses Extraordinaires. 

i. Ascent of Mont Blanc, 100 fr. 
Grands Mulets and backin 1 day, 20 fr. 

7c. Cormayeur by Col du Geant, 60 fr. 
I. Tour of Mont Blanc, 10 fr. a-day. 

N.B. — Those who are strong 
afoot and pressed for time may 
ascend the Montanvert early in 
the morning, cross the Mer de 
Glace to the Chapeau, descend to 
Source of Arveiron (5 hrs.), thence 
ascend the Flegere and enjoy the 
sunset view of Mont Blanc chain 
(also 5 hrs. up and down). 

a. Cascade du Dard. When 
rain or cloudy weather forbids 



distant excursions, visit this ; j of 
an hour from Ohamouni. Cross 
the bridge and turn rt., and in 10 
min. the path divides at the 2nd 
cluster of cottages. Take the 1. ; 
bear 1. towards and through a 
pine-wood. The path leads to the 
edge of a ravine. Keep up the 
rt. side of this, and the clialet by 
the cascade is soon reached. 

b. Montanvert. — Excellent mule- 
path 2 J hrs. up, if down. Cross 
the Arve and bear 1. over the 
meadows by a path, \ hr. to a 
house, then rt. to the foot of the 
mtn., where the path rises above 
the valley, through a pine-forest. 
As you mount higher, the gigantic 
obelisk of the Aiguille de Dm, 
peers down from above the pine- 
tops. 

Montanvert, 6303 ft. (Inn, or 
Pavilion, 3 bed-rooms and mode- 
rate fare), overlooks the Mer de 
Glace. The inn has succeeded to 
the rude hut, beneath which Saus- 
sure slept, and to the cabin, called 
" Chateau de Blair," from the 
Englishman who erected it, 1778- 
81. It is a good station for visit- 
ing the higher part of the Mer de 
Glace. Here Prof. Tyndall re- 
sided when making his glacier 
observation in 1857. Directly 
across the Mer de Glace are seen 
the Aiguille de Dru, du Moine, 
and Verte ; those pinnacles which 
form so peculiar a feature in Cha- 
mouni scenery. Immediately be- 
low the Montanvert is the Pierre 
des Anglais, so named after 
Wyndham and Pococke (col. 508). 
The glacier is walked across with- 
out the slightest difficulty, thanks 
to a daily explored pathway, in 
1 hr. to the Chapeau (r/), a cliff 
of limestone nearly opposite the 
Montanvert. A guide is essential 
to novices. The Mer de Glace is 



511 



Mte> 13S>—CHAM0UNIX— JARDIN. 512 



more remarkable for its strange- 
ness to those unused to glaciers, 
and for its views, than for the 
quality of the ice. To see pure 
ice and snow it is necessary to 
ascend much higher, viz. to 

c. Jardin. — An easy and one 
of the most striking glacier ex- 
cursions. Sleep at the Montan- 
vert, or take a mule up to it. 
Thence it is a walk of 4 hrs. to 
the Jardin, and 3 to return. Take 
provisions from the Mon tan vert. 
No person should go alone ; those 
not used to glaciers should take a 
guide for each traveller. Ladies 
had better have 2 guides. The 
excursion enters into the heart of 
Mont Blanc. 

The course follows the W. side 
of the Mer de Glace, and reaches 
the base of the Aiguille de Char- 
moz, where the Mer de Glace is 
less crevassed and can be crossed 
with ease. \ hr. Les Fonts, a 
narrow path cut in the side of a 
cliff; but the ledge, though nar- 
row, affords good holding for 
hands and feet . This once cleared , 
J hr. Descend on moraine, along 
which you scramble ; 1 J hr. begin 
to cross the glacier. When on 
the glacier, the guides point out 
a "Moulin," where a glacier 
torrent falls into a cavern of ice 
and is lost to sight. Four moraines 
are crossed. Beyond the 4th a 
point is reached where the glacier 
splits into 2 arms : one turning rt., 
towards Mt. Blanc, called Glacier 
du Geant; the other, on the I., 
called Glacier de Lech and. Our 
way lies 1. over the Lechaud, 
until it comes in contact with the 
lower extremity of that of (r J hr.) 
Talefre, which here has broken 
into vast and wild masses and 
pyramids in its abrupt descent. 

It is now necessary to climb 1. 



the rocks of the Couvercle (the 
base of Aiguille du Talefre). In 
some places the hands are re- 
quired as well as the feet. This 
part is called the Egralets. Above 
it the' path is less steep, and there 
is some herbage. After a short 
distance along the side of the 
Glacier du Talefre the glacier 
becomes smooth, and is crossed, 
when an oasis in this desert of ice 
is reached, this is the 

Jardin, covered with herbage, 
and enamelled, in August, with 
flowers. It is 7 acres in extent, 
and the lowest part is 9030 ft. 
Nothing can exceed the grandeur 
of the spot, amidst the overwhelm- 
ing sublimity 'of the Aiguilles of 
Charmoz, Blaitiere, and the Geant, 
and the enormous glaciers that 
encompass them. 

'Returning from the Jardin to 
Ohamouni, the route may be va- 
ried by following the Mouret path 
to the Chapeau. 

If the traveller have strength 
and be not pressed for time, he 
may explore, after a descent from 
the Jardin, the upper part of the 
Mer de Glace and the Glacier de 
Lechaud. Sleeping at the Mont- 
anvert, he may the next morning 
explore the bases of the Aiguilles 
between the Mer de Glace and 
Mont Blanc, and crossing the 
Glacier du Pelerin, reach the 
brink of a precipice overlooking 
the Glacier des Bossons, not far 
from where it is crossed, opposite 
the Grands Mulets, in the ascent 
of Mt. Blanc. From this he will 
have an excellent idea of the na- 
ture of the difficulties and of the 
magnificent scenes in that expedi- 
tion. A steep descent, chiefly over 
herbage, and parallel to the Gl. des 
Bossons, leads to the valley of 
Ohamouni, 2 m. below the village. 



513 Bte. 138. — CHAMO TJNIX—BBEV'EN. 514 



A short clay is sufficient for this 
excursion. 

d. The Flegere. 

Mule-path (char-road to les Pres) 2\ 
hrs. up, 2 hrs. down. View of Mt. Blanc 
and its aiguilles. 

The way lies up the valley, to 
the hamlet of les Pres, where it 
turns 1. by a steep path up the 
bed of a winter torrent to the pas- 
turage of Pra cle Viola. Thence 
a good hour through a wood is 
required to the Croix de la Fle- 
gere. 6350 ft., about 3000 ft. above 
the valley. View of the whole 
range of Mt. Blanc and of every 
glacier in the valley of Chamouni. 

Chalet of Flegere is within 2 
minutes' walk of the Cross. Here 
refreshment may be had; and it 
contains a bed or two. [Mule- 
path to Planpraz, affording fine 
views of the opposite range of 
Mont Blanc and his aiguilles. 
The path is clear. Guide un- 
necessary.] 

e. Breven, 

4 hrs. up, 2i down. Mule-path, im- 
proved, 2 hrs. to Planpraz, the rest on 
foot. From Planpraz a good mule-road 
has been carried to Sixt (lite. 143). 

The way begins behind the 
Rom. Cath. ch. of Chamouni. 

Above Planpraz some patches 
of snow are passed, and it is not 
uncommon to observe the red 
fungus upon it which has been 
noticed in arctic voyages. At the 
end of an hour from Planpraz the 
path reaches a steep rock, which 
it is necessary to climb by La 
Cheminee, a sort of open fissure 
50 ft. high. Above it the path 
lies up a gentle slope, to the sum- 
mit of the Breven, 8380 ft., or 
5000 above Chamouni, not more 

Kp. Swltz. 



than two-fifths of the height of 
Mont Blanc above the valley. 
Hence is *the finest of all the views 
of the mass of Mt. Blanc. Every 
peak and glacier, and even cre- 
vices in the glaciers, can be dis- 
tinguished, as well as every pas- 
turage and chalet below the snows. 
From the Buet, nearly 2000 ft. 
higher, the horizon is more ex- 
tended, but Mt. Blanc is twice as 
distant, and its lower belts are 
unseen. 

When mountaineers climb Mt. 
Blanc, tourists sometimes visit 
the Flegere and the Breven to 
watch them. Their entire course 
lies like a map, from the summit 
to the village, and with a good 
glass every step may be observed. 

Beturn to Chamouni may be 
varied by passing on the W. side 
of the Breven, near to a little lake, 
then, descending by the chalets of 
Calaveiran, to les Ouches, in the 
valley of Chamouni. 

/. Source of the Arveron. It issues 
from the Glacier du Bois. It is a 
walk of 3 m. along the plain of 
the valley, keeping on the N. side 
of the Arve. The char-road up 
the valley is left at 2 m. les Pres, 
where our path turns off to the rt., 
and passes the hamlet of Bois, 
leading in 1 m. to the source. 

The scenery round the source 
is desolate. The rocks brought 
down by the glacier from the 
mountains above, here tumble 
over into the bed of the river. 

g. Chateau. — View of the Mer 
de Glace, the Aiguilles of Char- 
moz and Blaitiere, Mont Blanc, 
the vale of Chamouni, and the 
Breven. It overlooks the Mer do 
Glace, where the glacier begins to 
break into obelisks. Mule-path 
to Les Tines up the valley ; thenco 
walk up to the Chapeau. Or clso 
s 



515 Me. 138.— CHAMOUNI 



{ — CHAPE A U—B VET. 516 



go to Montanvert, thence cross the 
Mer de Glace (o) and descend the 
rocks by what must have formerly 
well deserved its name of mauvais 
pas. Now steps are cut, and 
there is a banister of iron ; so that 
many ladies pass daily. 

In the month of July, when the 
weather permits, a large number 
of heifers are driven across the 
Mer de Glace, to pass their sum- 
mer of 3 months on the slopes of 
the mnts. near the Aiguille de 
Dru. Peasants precede them with 
hatchets to make a way, as acci- 
dents generally attend the transit. 
The inarch requires several hours, 
and is truly picturesque. Men, 
women, and children attend the 
procession, passing the whole day 
on the mnt. in enjoyment of 
their task. One man remains on 
the opposite side of the Mer de 
Glace, as guardian to the herd. 
He carries a supply of bread and 
cheese for one month, and is 
allowed one cow for milk. He 
passes 3 months of expatriation in 
making stockings and contem- 
plating the wonders of nature. 

h. Col de Balme and Tete Noire 
and back (^without going to Mar- 
tigny), 9 J hrs., mule-path. From 
the inn on the Col de Balme 
(Ete. 142) turn 1. across meadows 
past a small lake. Descent brings 
in 1 hr. to above the valley of the 
Tete None. View. The path now 
turns rt., and for J hr. skirts the 
precipice until it arrives above the 
H. de la Tete None (Ete. 141), 
to which it descends in zigzags. 
Guide needed. 

i. Ascent of Mont Blanc is a 
laborious walk of 2 days, all the 
more trying as the first night is 
spent in discomfort in a rare atmo- 
sphere. It can be accomplished 



by any vigorous youth who has 
brought himself into first-rate 
mountain training, and cares to 
pay the cost, but the strongest per- 
son who is only in partial train- 
ing, could not effect it without 
serious risk to his constitution; 
while it is wholly beyond the 
powers of those who are in no 
training at all. The actual climb* 
ing is not so difficult as that of 
Monte Eosa, the Jimgfrau, Wet- 
terhorn, &c. The expense of the 
ascent was, until lately, about 
25 1. ; but for a party of 3 or 4 it is 
now reduced to about 10/. each. 
The new route by St. Gervais is 
decidedly the easiest, and its chief 
difficulties are overcome on the 
1st day. It is 6 J hrs. from the 
Inn on the Col di Vosa, to the 
cabane on the top of the Aiguille 
di Goute, where the night is 
spent. The next day it is 4 hrs. 
to the top. Descent to Chamouni 
7 hrs. by the Grands Mulets. The 
ice-scenes are finer along the 
return route. " The Ancient Pas- 
sage/' on which Capt. Arkwright 
was lost with 3 guides, 1866, is 
very dangerous. 

/. Buet Mule-path; not difficult. 
Passing 2 hrs. Argentiere, and 
following the Berar to 3 J hrs. 
Chalet of the Pierre a Berard. 
Sleep here. 5 beds and food. 
Next day past the Table au 
Chantre to, 3 J hrs. Summit, 
io,2c6 ft. Descent to Servoz, or 
to Sixt, in 6 hrs. (Ete. 143). 

h. Col du Geant, 11,146 ft., a 
useful and magnificent glacier 
]3ass. On an average 7 hrs. from 
Montanvert to Col, thence 3 Ins. 
descent to Inn on Mt. Fre'ty. The 
difficulties are remarkably vari- 
able along this route. Sometimes 
the scracs on the Chamouni side 



bVI Bte. 139.— CHAMOUNI to CO UBMA YETJB. 518 



are scarcely passable, sometimes 
they can be threaded without 
delay. Descent to Courmayeur is 
at first alarmingly steep to novices. 
Here was the fatal accident in 
i860 of 3 wearied English tra- 
vellers and one of their guides, 
F. Tairraz, who were imperfectly 
roped and slipped in the snow. 
A single traveller should have 
2 guides. Saussure encamped 
many days in the col. During 
the prohibition of English goods 
by Buonaparte, smugglers crossed 
it from Switzerland to Italy laden 
with British muslins. 

The Col de Balme and Mont 
Buet. Proceed either from Lau- 
sanne or Marti gny to Ely. Stat, 
at Vernayaz, where refreshments, 
mules, and porters may be had. 
After seeing the Gorge of Trient 
and Waterfall of Sallenche (Rte. 
56), proceed by Sal vent and 
Finhaut (a beautiful route) to the 
Tete None route from Martigny. 
Leave it just beyond the 2nd bridge 
N. of the H. Barberine, and ascend 
by path on rt. to Col de Balme. 
This is a mule-path, and requires 
from Vernayaz to Col de Balme 
about 7 hrs. Sleep at hotel on 
Col de Balme, and, if the weather 
be fine, the view is splendid. 
Next morning descend in 2 hrs. 
to Valorsine, and thence in J hr. 
to Cascade in Gorge Berarcl, and 
thence in 2 hrs. to chalet at 
Pierre a Berard, and there sleep. 
The next morning ascend Mont 
Buet, 3 J hrs. from chalet, and 
descend either to Chamonix, Ser- 
voz, or Sixt, cither of which places 
may be reached in the evening. 
The ascent of Col de Balme by 
this route is much easier than 
from the Forclaz. 

I, Tout of Mont Blanc may be 
made in 7 days. 



1, 2, and 3, to Courmayeur (Rte. 139) ; 
4, to Aosta (Rte. 134); 5, to the Great 
St. Bernard (Rte. 135) ; 6, to Martigny 
(Rte. 135); 7, to Chamouni. 

Or in 4 long days : 1 and 2, to Cour- 
mayeur (Rte. 139) ; 3, to Martigny, by 
the Col Ferrex (Rte. 137); 4, to Cha- 
mouni. 

A Chamouni guide coming to Martigny 
furnished with a pass is allowed to con- 
tinue with the same party, but not to 
make a fresh engagement from Martigny. 



Rte. 139. — CHAMOUNI to 
COU&MAYEUR, by the COL 
BU BON HOMME and the 
COL DE LA SEIGrNE. 



Hrs. 
CHAMOUNI to 
Contamines . 7 

Mule-path 3 days; 



Hrs. 
7* 

2 long days, 



Chapiu 
Courmayeur 



sleeping at Nant Bourant, and taking the 
short steep cut of Col du Four. Guide 
desirable in case of bad weather, 15 fr. 2 
days, 20 fr. 3 days. 

From Chamouni to 

Les Ouches. Thence 1. up the 1| hr. 

mountain side in zigzags, within 
sight of the chalets de la Forclaz. 
[The rte. is joined (rt.) by the 
path from St. Gervais (Rte. 138).] 

Col de Vosa, about 6000 ft. 2J hrs. 
(Inn : Pavilion de Bcllevue, toler- 
able, 4 beds, charges high). View 
up the vale of Chamouni and of 
the Aiguilles. 

Descent to Veil de Montjoie, 
invaded on its E. side by the 
Glacier de Bionnassay, sweeping 
s 2 



519 Itte. 139.— CHAMO UNI to CO UBMA YETJtl. 520 



down from Mt. Blanc. Its stream 
must be crossed by a wooden 
plank bridge, a little below where 
it issues from the glacier. (If 
you miss this bridge you will be 
sorely puzzled to get across.) 
From it over meadows through 
Champel, rounding the spur from 
Mt. Blanc, and entering Val 
Montjoie, near 

2 J hrs. Tresse vill. 

J hr. Contamines (Inns : H. l'Union, 
good; H. du Bonhomme; best 
accommodation on road), a large 
vill. with a Ch., high above the 
valley. 

[To Glacier of Trelatete. 
Thence to chalets of Motet (see 
below) by a shorter way than over 
the Col de Bonhomme, between 
the^Aiguille de Bellaval and that 
of Echellette. Apavilionh&s been 
built close to the Trelatete gl., 
whence ascent of Aiguille de Be- 
ranger in 4 hrs.] 

Descent to the Bon Nant, which 
is crossed near 

Pontet hamlet and saw-mills, 
[rt. To the chapel of N. D. de la 
Gorge, at the end of a cul-de-sac 
at the base of Mont Joli. On the 
Fete of the Assumption (Aug. 15) 
thousands of peasants make pil- 
grimage.] 

A steep and rudely-paved path 
leads out of the ravine and through 
a forest. 

2 hrs. Kant Bourant (a small Inn, 
with 7 or 8 beds, extortionate, un- 
less you bargain). Here the deep 
gorge is crossed by a stone bridge. 
A little way down, the water falls 
into a still deeper ravine, forming 
the Nant, or cataract of the 
Bourant. 



Above the chalets the valley is 
narrow ; at length, the road enters 
upon pasturages, and huge gla- 
ciers from the S.W. flanks of 
Mont Blanc; and immediately 
above them is the vast glacier of 
Trelatete. 

Mont Jovet. Bread, wine, 1 J hr. 
and milk ; no meat. A room has 
been fitted up with beds. 

Steep ascent. 

Plan des Dames is the next 
terrace. Here is a cairn, which 
has existed from time immemorial. 
Tradition says, that a great lady, 
with her suite, perished here in a 
storm. 

Up herbless slopes and over 
patches of snow, to reach what, 
from below, seems to be the col. 
On 1. two of the peaked rocks 
bear the name of the Bonhomme 
and the Femme clu Bonhomme. 

The crest, however, which lies 
close to these pinnacles is that of 
the 

Col de la Sauce [across which 
a path leads down to Maxime de 
Beaufort]. View of Alpine peaks. 

Our path turns 1. from the Col 
de la Sauce, behind the pinnacles 
of rock, and slightly ascends by a 
swampy slope. 

Croix du Bonhomme, 8195 ft.l hr. 
View of the elegant Mont Pourri, 
in Val Isere (Ete. 148). 

From the col the path branches 
[1. short, steep cut over Col de 
Four to Motet] ; our course is rt., 
over a broken, swampy ground. 

Chapiu (Inns : H. du Soleil, H % 
best, but homely ; H. des Voya- 
geurs). [rt. To Bourg St. Maurice, 
3 hrs., and Little St. Bernard, 



521 B. 140.— COL DE LA S EIGNE. Ul.—TltTE NOIBE. 522 



range of the Mt. Chetif. The 
united streams are crossed at the 
Baths of La Saxe, and 20 min. 
more brings the traveller to 



down Val BellavaL] Up valley 
by the Hameau du Glacier to 

2 hrs. Chalets of Motet (2 small 
inns or chalets, one containing 

3, the other 4 beds, clean but 
rough and dear). Thence the* 
ascent is easy to the 

l}hr. Col de la Seigne, 8247 ft. 
View of the whole extent of the 
Allee Blanche and the vast S. 
wall of Mt. Blanc. 

The chief glaciers of the Allee 
Blanche on the side of Mt. Blanc 
are, 1. G. de l'Estellette ; 2. G. de 
l'Allee Blanche ; 3. G. de Miage ; 

4. G. de la Brenva. The moraines 
2 and 3 form barriers across the 
valley, and have occasioned lakes 
by damming the river. The mo- 
raine of the 

Gflac. du Miage is most remark- 
able. It has given rise to the 

Lac de Combal. Below it are 
chalets, and then a fertile plain. 
Trees now appear; the forest is 
fine onrt., and clothes the 

Mt. Chetif (Pain de Sucre, or 
"sugar-loaf" hill). The path 
through the woods is beautiful. 
It attains some height above the 
torrent, and emerging from the 
trees comes in full view of the 

Grlac. de la Brenva, which 
bestrides obliquely the Allee 
Blanche, abutting against the 
foot of Mt. Chetif. 

Chapel of N. D. de la Guerison, 

stands on the rt. of the way, 
opposite the ice ; thence a descent 
to the bank of the river, which 
turns abruptly (after its confluence 
with the stream of the Val Fcr- 
rex) into a ravine, cutting the 



Courmayeur (Kte. 134). 4 J hrs. 



Rte. 141. - CHAMOUNI to 
MARTIGNY, by the T^TE 
NOIRE. Also by the EATJ 
NOIRE. 

CHAMOUNI to Hours. 
Argentiere (char) ... if 
Tete Noire (mule). . . 3 
Forclaz „ . . . i£ 

Martigny „ . . .2% 

8 hrs. moderate walking: 10 with a 
mule, including stoppages : no guide 
needed. Char-road 51 m. to Argentiere. 

3 rtes. lead to Martigny. 

a. Tete Noire ; mule-path good. Scenery- 
is on the whole finer than in 

b. JEau Noire; Inns better; mule- 
path good ; not much longer than a or c. 
Scenery partly the same as in a ; and, for 
the rest, out and out finer. 

c. Col de Balme (Rte. 142) ; mule-path 
good. Has one paramount view of Mt. 
Blanc, especially interesting to those on 
their way from Martigny. 

The beauties of both a or b and of c 
may be combined by a detour of 2£ hrs. 
First to the Col de Balme and see the view ; 
then 1. across the pastures and forest (no 
good track, but horses can go) to the vill. 
of Val Orsine. 

From Chamouni a char-road 
up the valley passes Les Pres [rt. 
to Arveiron], then Les Tines (in 
2h m.) [rt. to Chapeau] ; here the 
valley narrows and the road is 
steeper. Past Les Isles to (in 5 2 m. 
from Ghamouni) 



523 Rte. Ul.—CHAMOUNI to MABTIGNY. 524 



If hr. Argentiere (Bins: Couronne, 
Bellevue); char- road ends. *Vieiv 
of Argentiere Gl. opposite. Eoad 
divides, [rt. To Col de Balme 
(Kte. 142).] 1. Ascent through 

J hr. Trelechant hamlet to 

Jhr. Col des Montets, watershed 
of Khone. On the 1. the Eau 
Noire is seen descending. 

% hr. 1. View up r Valley of Berard, of 
Buet Mtn., behind the Aiguilles 
Kouges. [Ascent of Buet (Ete. 
138), and rte. to Sixt. Waterfall, 
J hr. up valley.] Here the stream 
Berar runs into the Eau Noire. 

f hr. Valor cine, chief vill. (bed pro- 
curable). Valley now contracts. 

I hr. Inn : E. de la Cascade Bar- 
berine, good. J way to Martigny 
^Waterfall of Barberine J hr.]. 
Just before you reach the hotel 
the stream Barberine joins the 
Eau Noire. Hence by a beauti- 
ful path to and through short 
tunnel, BocJie-Percee. 

Jhr. Col de la Tete Noire. On the 

opposite shoulder of the same 
mtn., rt., is the Col de Balme. 

i hr. Inn : II. de la Tete Noire, 
good [to Col de Balme (Kte. 
138 h, to Martigny]. Here the 
way turns sharply rt. up the valley 
of the Trient, a torrent which 
absorbs the Eau Noire a little 
lower down, and through the 
forest of Trient, and winds round 
the shoulder of the Tete Noire. 
On leaving the forest the valley 
opens, and in it is 

Jhr. Trient, vill. (no Inn) amidst 
pine-forests and mountain debris. 
The torrent from the Trient Gl. 



is crossed. Steep ascent follows. 
i way up 

Junction of path to Col de J hr. 
Balme, Rte. 142. [to Orsieres 
direct (for the Gt. St. Bernard), 
by the pretty Lac de Champey]. 

Col de la Forclaz (small Inn), i hr. 

View of the Khone, descending J hr. 
through the Valais. The path 
leads through pastures, then pine- 
forests, and finally pear and apple 
trees. 

Martigny - le - Bourg (Inns : 1J hr, 
Lion^ Trois Couronnes) [to Gt. 
St. Bernard (Kte. 135)]. 

Martigny-la-ville (Kly. Stat.) J hr. 
(Kte. 56). English travellers 
proceeding hence to Chamouni 
are rarely required to show their 
passports at the French frontier. 

Ascent from Martigny to the Col de la 
Forclaz, 2% hrs. 



b. By the Valley of Eau Noire 
and Trient to Martigny. — Leave 
the preceding route (a) just before 
you cross the second bridge N. 
of the H. Barberine. Ascend by 
the path on the 1. and thence by 
the hamlet of Chatelard, and the 
villages of Finhaut and Salvent 
to Vernayaz, where there is a 
Kly. Stat, on the Ligne dTtalie, 
and the train may be taken 
either to Martigny or the Lake of 
Geneva. The ascent by Chate- 
lard is rather rough, but perfectly 
safe for mules, and afterwards a 
better mule-path cannot be, and 
the scenery is beautiful. The 
time from the H. Barberine is 
4 hrs., the reverse journey \\ 
hrs. At Vernayaz the gorge of 
Trient and the Waterfall of 
Sallenche (Kte, 56) may be seen. 



525 



lite. U2.—C0L DE BALME to CHAMOUNL 



526 



Proceeding from Martigny or the 
opposite direction, Lausanne, &c, 
the train may be taken to Ver- 
nayaz, and there mules and porters 
and refreshments may be had at 
H. de la Croix Blanche. A guide 
quite unnecessary. 



Rte. 142. — MAETIGNY to 
CHAMOUNI, by the COL BE 
BALME. 

MARTIGNY to Hours. 

Forclaz 2i 

Col de Balrne i\ 

Argentiere, char-road begins 2% 
Chamouni if 

About 20 m., 8£ hrs. steady walking, 
ioj hrs. with a mule, including a halt at 
the summit. No guide needed. 

For merits of the different rtes. 
between Chamouni and Martigny, 
see Ete. 141. 

From Martigny (see Kte. 141) 

to 

2§hr. Junction of rte. to Col de 
la Tete Noire. Path avoids the 
vill. of Trient, and crosses 

I hr. Bridge over Trient ; then up 
valley, and through forest of 
Magnin, over pastures to 

ljhr. Herbageres Chalets (milk). 
Ascent is gradual to 

i hr. Col de Balme ( Inn : Pavilion, 
dear). *View. Mont Blanc, fore- 
shortened, appears in all its gran- 
deur displayed from its summit 



to its base, surrounded by the 
Aiguilles of La Tour, Argentiere, 
Verte, Dru, Charmoz, Midi, &c. 
&c. ; and each divided from its 
neighbour by enormous glaciers, 
which stream into the valley. The 
whole length of the vale of Cha- 
mouni is seen, the Col de Vosa 
closing its other extremity. Kt. 
are the Aiguilles Kouges : beyond 
these lies theBreven, and more to 
the rt. the snowy summit of the 
Buet. *View is improved by 
climbing a rise J hr. N. of Inn. 

Descent over pastures to the 
hamlet of Tour, where cultivation 
is reached. The blackish slaty 
rubbish, brought down by the 
torrents, is carefully preserved in 
small heaps. It is scattered over 
the snow to hasten its melting, 
which it really effects, owing to 
the warmth it absorbs from the 
sun's rays — a philosophical pro- 
cess observed by Saussure. 

[Junction of Ete. by Tete 
Noire. 3 Immediately after, is 

Argentiere (Ete. 141). 2| hrs. 

It saves fatigue and time to 
drive thence (5 J m.) in a char 
to 



Chamouni, 



2 hrs. 



Rte. 143. — servoz 

GENEVA, by SIXT. 



to 



SERVOZ to H. 
Col d'Anterno 4 
Sixt ... 5 



Geneva 



• 36 



527 



Bte. US.— VALLEY OF 8LXT. 



528 



The valley of Sixt is one of the finest in 
Savoy. It may be reached (i) by a good 
carr.-road, 36 m. by Bonneville, on the way 
between Geneva and Chamouni, mail carr., 
2 or 3 seats, 3 times a week ; (2) by a 
char-road, not very good, but very pic- 
turesque, 36 m. by St. Jeoire ; (j) from 
Servoz, on the Geneva and Chamouni road, 
by the Col d'Anterne mule-path, 9 hrs. ; 
or (4) from Chamouni direct, by mule- 
path over the Brevent, and then over the 
Col d'Anterne, 11 hrs. 

Ascent of Col d'Anterne. 
Guide is needed. Take provisions. 

Servoz (Ete. 138). Tlie nit. 
above abounds in tertiary fossils. 

After leaving tbe upper chalets 
the delxris of a fallen mountain has 
to be crossed by a rugged path. 

4 hrs. Col d'Anterne (7424 ft.) is 
reached through a fork-like open- 
ing. View of Mt. Blanc here is 
very fine. It is seen more dis- 
tinctly than at Chamonix, where 
it appears to be as it were en- 
gulfed in a world of mountains. 
[Pass to Sixt by the Col du 
Deroclioir."} 

[Ascent of BuetMl (Ete. 138 I) 
Descend E. from Col d'Anterne. 
J h. Moed chalets. Across mea- 
dows 

1 J lir. Villy hamlet (night- quar- 
ters ; the only one on the ascent). 

J hr. Salenton, further. Here 
mule-path ends, and the difficult 
part of the ascent begins. 

2 hrs. Summit (10,206 ft.) 
thickly covered with snow ; on the 
N.E. and N.W. are glaciers. 
The S. is precipitous. * View of 
Mt. Blanc in full grandeur. E. 
mountains of the Valais. W. over 
numberless peaks into Dau- 
phiny, and Savoyard mountains. 
Glimpses of the lakes of Geneva 
and Annecy : the horizon is 
bounded by the Jura. (The Buet 



may be ascended more easily from 
Valorcine.) (Ete. 141.) 

Descent may be varied by (1) 
following the Dioza to Servoz, or 
(2) by walking across the Brevent 
to the chalet of Planpraz. Ete. 
r 3 8e.J 

Descent from the Col d'Anterne 
is gradual. The path skirts the 
E. of Lac d'Anterne. 

Chalets d'Anterne (milk and 1 hr. 
cheese). Descend rapidly, be- 
neath the peak of Pointe de Sales, 
through a narrow and luxuriant 
gorge. 

Sixt {Inn : H. des Cascades, 4 hrs. 
once a convent, good quarters). 
Beautifully sit. in valley of the 
Giftre, at a point where 2 valleys 
converge like the letter V. at the 
N.W. base of the Buet. There 
is plenty of game and fish. Water- 
falls are numerous. Many dry 
up as the summer advances. : 

The guides are inferior, each takes his 
turn. The charges are fixed : Buet, 10 frs. : 
Fer a Cheval, 2 frs. 50 c. ; Chamouni, 
15 frs. Moccand the shoemaker is a good 
guide for the Buet. 

Excursions. 

a. To the Fer a Cheval, 4^ m., 
rj hr., char-road, a rugged cirque, 
in the form of a horse-shoe. On 
the way, view of Buet, rt. ; 1. 
Cascade of La Gouille. Glacier 
on the top of the Fer a Cheval 
is said to renew itself every 7 years, 
its lower extremity constantly fall- 
ing over (500 ft.) into the valley. 

4 m. further (foot-path) to the 
Fond de la Combe, the precipice 
which closes the valley. 

b. Lac de Gers, 3 hrs. walk ; 
no guide needed. The path 
crosses the valley to the S.W., 
and then mounts by 



529 



Ete. Ul.—SIXT to MONTHEY. 



530 



Rte. 144. -SIXT to MON- 
THEY— VAL B'lLLIEZ. 

SIXT (Rte. 143) Hrs. 
to Hrs. Champery . . 6| 

Samoens . . i-fc Monthey . .3 

Beautiful scenery. Road per- 
fectly easy for ladies who can ricle 
6 hrs. 

There are also 2 more difficult passes. 
(1.) By Golette de l'Oulaz. (2.) Glacier 
pass, rather difficult, by the Col de Sage- 
roux. 

Best inn at Champery. 

From Sixt the valley is de- 
scended to 



fhr. Cascade of Pieu, or Gers, 
nearly hidden in a cleft, to 

fhr. Montague de Porte. View 
over Sixt — the Mts. Buet and 
Blanc, and Pointe de Sales. Over 
ground nearly level 

f hr. Lac de Gers. 

c. Ascent of Buet. It is prudent 
to start 2 or 3 hrs. before sunrise. 
The ascent may be shortened by 
passing the night at Chalets des 
Fonds, 2 hrs. from Sixt. 

d. Two passes to the valley of 
the Rhone : 1, by the valley of 
the Trient ; 2, by the Sallenches. 

e. To Champery {see Rte. 144). 
Sixt to Geneva {see remarks at 

beginning of rte.). 9 hrs. drive. 

See Fall of the Nant Dent, 700 
ft., and the Gouffre des Tines. 

Samoens {Inns: Croix d'Or; 
Poste : not good), beautifully 
situated ; 4000 Inhab. 

[Pass of the Col de Jouxplaine to 
Morzine, and down valley of Dranse to 
Thonon.] 

Tanninges (2800 Inhab.) has a 
castle. Vile Inn. 

Here diverge 2 rtes. to Geneva, 

1. To Bonneville, 10 miles, on 
the high road from Chamouni to 
Geneva. 

2. Direct, rougher, but prettier 
rte., by 

St. Jeoire {Inns: Couronne; 
Lion d'Or), standing at the foot of 
the Mole, a mtn. conspicuous from 
Geneva. [* View from its top.] 

Mangy, on the road from Cha- 
mouni to 

Geneva (Rte. 53). 



Samoens. (Rte. 143.) (Indif-ljhr. 
ferent Inn.) The road lies 
through the beautiful gorge just 
E. of the town, and is through 
forest scenery and grassy glades. 
Views of limestone mtn. peaks, 
rt. Gouffre des Tines. The road 
passes the villages of Les Moulins 
and Les Allamans. 

Col de Goleze (about 5 600 2J hrs. 
ft.). Below is the Drance, which 
flows into the Lake of Geneva near 
Thonon {see Rte. 57). To the 
N. E. is Col de Coux, another and 
higher ridge, which separates it 
from Val d'Uliez, and is the 
boundary between Savoy and 
Canton Valais. The way over 
this ridge winds round the head 
of the valley of the Drance, be- 
neath crags, and through a pine- 
forest. 



Col de Coux (about 6400 ft.). 2 hrs. 



531 Bte. 146. — AO ST A to PONTE in VAL L'OBCA. 532 



Ete. 146.-A0STA to PONTE 
in VAL B'ORCA, by COGNE 
and the VAL SOANNA. 

AOSTA to Hrs. Hrs. 
Cogne . . . si Col de 1* Arietta i£ 
Highest Chalets 3 Cartipiglia . . 3 
Ponte . . .f4 

N.B. — Send notice beforehand 
to Cogne to prepare the landlord, 
if the party be large, as all pro- 
visions come from Aosta, 4 hrs. 

Carriage-road to Aimaville, 
thence bridle-path. 

From Aosta (Ete. 134) a road 
leads directly down to the Doire, 
which it passes, and ascends on 
the rt. bank through the rich plain 
of the valley, and through the 
vills. of Gressan and Joveneau to 



Marked by a cross. Here is a 
chalet with refreshments. 

Descent. Is at first rather steep. 
Halfway down a streamlet from 
a sulphureous spring, is crossed 
by a stone bridge. 

2 hrs. Champery (Inns : Hotel et 
Pension de la Dent du Midi, pen- 
sion 5 fr. a day ; Croix Federale, 
second-rate) (height 3700 ft.) is 
well suited for head-quarters as 
the centre of many pleasant 

Excursions. — Walks up and 
down the valley, at different levels 
(see Ete. 57). 

For Mountaineers. — Ascent of 
the Dent du Midi, whose rugged 
crags form a striking object from 
the E. end of the lake of Geneva. 

a. The most direct route, 5 J hrs., 
but fit only for good cragsmen, 
passes by the Croix de Zeleze. 

b. An easier way, 6 J hrs., passes 
by the chalets of Bonavaux, 1 j hr., 
and from thence gains the sum- 
mit in 5 hrs. * View includes the 
greater part of the Pennine chain 
and the nearer Alps of Bex. 

Val d'Uliez. This beautiful val- 
ley is about 9 m. in length from 
Champery to Monthey. There is 
an excellent char-road on the 1. 
bank of the torrent, passing the 
villages of 

Val d'llliez ( Inn : decent) and 

Trois Torrents. Note the er- 
ratic blocks here and below. 

3 hrs. Monthey (Ete. 57). The rly. 
station is J mile beyond the vill. 

[At Chouex, opposite Monthey, 
there is a ferry across the Ehone, 
and a path leading direct to 
Massonger and Bex.] 



Aimaville, where an ugly mo- 
dern-antique, cockney castle is 
built. Hence the ascent is steep to 

St. Martin hamlet. *F^yfrom 
the crest above it. Aosta is seen 
as in a frame ; and the peaks of 
Mt. Eosa close the picture. The 
path now enters 

Val de Cogne, 1000 ft. above 
the torrent. 

Pont d'Ael, Roman Aque-2Jhrs.| 
duct. A white line which crosses 
the ravine is an ancient aqueduct, 
which now serves as a road. It 
crosses the torrent by a single 
arch, 400 ft. in height. Imme- 
diately above it is the ancient 



533 



Bte. 146.— A08TA to COGNE. 



534 



gallery, 180 ft. long, 14 feet high, 
and 3 ft. wide ; lit through slits in 
the wall. This singular work 
is in perfectly sonnd condition, 
thongh it was built, as a sharp 
inscription still indicates, by 
Caius Aimus and his son, of 
Padua, in the 13 th year of Au- 
gustus. Their name is preserved 
in Aimaville. 

jx short cut from Pont d'Ael 
regains the path. The valley for 
a long way is now a deep ravine, 
which is mostly impervious to 
the eye. At one spot is a slide, 
down which trees cut in the forest 
above are discharged, for the 
chance of the torrent bringing 
them to the Yal d A osta. Not one 
in ten escapes being splintered. 
These, however, served for work- 
ing iron in Val de Cogne. 

The difficulties of construct- 
ing the road are obvious. It was 
made by two brothers, iron-mas- 
ters. There is little cultivation in 
the valley, as the mines and forges 
gave full occupation to its inhabit- 
ants. The company that worked 
them having failed has led to 
the commune taking up the 
enterprise. The haml ets of Vieille 
Silvenoir, Epinel, and Oreta are 
passed before reaching 

3 hrs. Cogne ( Inn : La Grivola, fair), 
at the union of 3 valleys, amidst 
charming meadows. The costume 
of the females on fete-days is 
peculiarly picturesque. The Cure 
Chamonin is a stout mountaineer, 
well acquainted with the country. 

[It is quite possible to ascend 
the Becca di Nona, and from 
thence descend to Cogne, in 1 
long day from Aosta.] 

[N.E. up the tributary valley, 
to the Becca di Nona, 1., and Mt. 
Emilius, rt., and by a pass be- 
tween them into Val St. Marcel. 



S.E. up the opposite valley to the 
Grand Paradis and great glacier 
of Vermiana.] 

Iron Mines are worth a visit : 
3000 ft. above the valley ; 2 J hrs. 
steep ascent. A vast surface of 
pure ore, yielding from 70 to 80 
per cent, of metal, is exposed to 
open day. 

Bouquetin (Stambecco) still 
exists on the mtns. near Cogne. 
Heavy penalties for their destruc- 
tion. The King of Italy resorts 
hither for the chase, and has had 
rest- chalets built for him on the 
mtn. One of these was swept 
away by an avalanche 1867. 

View of Mt. Blanc from all the 
heights round Cogne ; for the di- 
rection of its valley is a prolonga- 
tion of that between Villeneuve 
and Courmayeur. Views also of 
the Pic de la Grivola, or Come de 
Cogne (13,003 ft.). The Bocliers 
des Poussets are often ascended 
from this on account of the fine 
view of the Grivola ; time, 3 hrs. 

Leaving the little plain of 
Cogne, the road ascends by the 
mtn. side, leaving rt. a valley (in 
which the glacier of Money de- 
scends from Mt. Grand Paradis), 
and passing over what appears to 
be a vast dike. Then the country 
is more wild and open. The 
lower chalets of Chavanes are 
soon reached : further up on this 
fine Alp is the cluster known as 
the 

Chalets of Chavanes. 3 hrs. 

From this point there are 2 
rtes. to Val Soanna and Italy. 

a. By Col de V Arietta, over f hr. of 
glacier, not fit for mules, direct to Val 
Soanna. 

b. By Fenetre de Cogne, very circuitous, 
but interesting, barely a mule-path. Fine 
view from top hrs.) over Grand 
Paradis. 



535 Bte. 147.— PONTE to VILLENEUVE and A08TA. 536 



the richest part of Piedmont, 
amidst Indian corn, vines, mul- 
berry and fig trees. 

Little idea can be formed of the 
richness and beauty of Piedmont, 
except by those who have skirted 
the mtns. on the borders of its rich 
plains. The traveller who enters 
it by the usual routes, at rt. angles 
to them, sees little of it. 



a. By Col de V Arietta. Caution 
on the glacier. If any snow use 
the rope. Crevasses numerous, 
though small. Guides hereabouts 
are ignorant. 

lhr. Col de V Arietta, very nar- 
row. *View; S„ even to Turin. 
N., by climbing rock to the rt., of 
Mt. Rosa and Mt. Blanc. 

Descent excessively steep, but 
safe, to the valley. Here a good 
path leads gently down through 
scenes of increasing beauty. On 
looking back the Col de Cogne 
appears inaccessible. 

3 hrs. Campiglia (no Inn), a 
wretched hamlet of migrating 
coppersmiths and lampmakers. 

f hr. Ronco ; cafe, barely endurable. 
The people of the valley wear an 
awkward boot of coarse woollen, 
tied round the ankle, half as broad 
again as the foot. 

Through a fine ravine to 

2| hr. Ponte (Inn: tolerable, al Valen- 
tino) ; arcaded streets, rich vine- 
yards. Highly picturesque. 

Views from many spots about 
Ponte. Walks along both the 
Oreo and the Soanna. Ch. of Sta. 
Maria on an eminence, J hr. walk. 

Fabbrica cotton-works, the first 
established in Piedmont. 

Diligence to Turin, 6 hrs., and Ivrea. 

4 m. Courgne ( Inns : Corona Grossa; 
Leone d'Oro, tolerable), a large 
town. Post-coach and chars to 
Locana, on the way to the Baths 
of Ceresol (Ete. 147). 

The road continues through 
Valperga (noble Campanile) ; Ei- 
varolo; Lombadore, where the 
river Mallone is crossed; and 
Lemie : — all towns situated in 



Turin. Handbook N. Italy. 26 m. 

i 



I 

. I 

Rte. 147.— PONTE to AOSTA, 
by CERESOL BATHS. The VAL 
SAVAHANCHE. 

i 

PONTE to Hrs. 
Locana (char-road ends) . 2£ 
Inn and Baths of Ceresol . 4! 

Chapis 2 

Pont 5^ 

Villeneuve 6 

1 

These times are doubtful. 

The traveller must carry bread and 
wine when he visits these wild valleys ; 
milk, cheese, and butter may be had at 
the chalets. He is especially cautioned 
against wandering there without a well- 
recommended guide. The Baths of 
Ceresol Reale, when not full of residents, 
afford good accomodation to travellers. 

Mail carriage from Cuorgne (Rte. 146) 
to Locana, where baggage and riding 
mules can be had by writing beforehand 
to the director of the Baths. 

Locana (Cafe delle Alpi).2Jhrs. 
Char-road as far as Lilla. The 
valley soon becomes dreary, and 
the mule-path winds up amidst 
masses of fallen rocks, often with 
beautiful little plains between 



537 Bte. U7.—P0NTE to VILLENEUVE and AO ST A. 538 



them. Several wretched hamlets 
are passed, such as 

2|hrs. Novasca. Here a cataract 
bursts out from a rift in a bare 
mass of granite. Curious Alpine 
bridge. 

Sealare de Ceresol, just above 
Novasca. It is a flight of steps 
(Sealare), practicable for mules, 
carried through the gorge for 
J m. Crosses mark the scenes of 
accidents. 

Above this is the plain of Cere- 
sol, where barley is grown, and 
there is much meadow-land. A 
snowy range rises in front. The 
valley turns rt., round a mtn. in 
which are silver-mines. The ore 
is smelted in the valley. Near the 
works there is an effervescing, 
slightly chalybeate, and delicious 
spring. 

Baths of Ceresol Recite (24 m. 
from Cuorgne). Boarding house 
and Inn — prices fixed by tariff. 

lfhr. Inn, clean and comfortable, 
10 min. beyond the spring, fre- 
quented by Turinese in the sum- 
mer, and the only head-quarters 
for excursions in this part of the 
Graian Alps. Guides here. 

Mt. Levanna, seen L, is very 
grand. Three of its peaks bear 
the name of Trots Bees. The 
valley widens near the scattered 
houses of 

Jhr. Ceresol {Inn miserable), the 
highest village with a church. 

1 \ hr. Chalets of Chapis ; hay-loft to 
sleep in. 

[To Tignes,in the upper valley 
of the Isere (ltte. 156) by the 
mountaineering difficult 'pass of the 
Galese. *View from the Col.] 
Beyond Chalets of Serue t the 



scene equals in sterility and sa- 
vageness any other in the Alps. 

Ascent in zigzags. 

Chalets. * Views of Mt.ljhr. 
Levanna. The path is now a 
series of flights of steps rudely 
cut in the rock. Beyond this a 
path more difficult than that of the 
Gemini, without the protection of 
its parapets. 

Col de la Croix de Nivolet.f hr. 

View back is very wild. 

Descent is much easier. 
After having attained 

Lakes, a nearly level path J hr. 
leads through fine pastures. 

Chalets of the Plan de Nivo-f hr. 
let. The want of other fuel than 
dried cow -dung gives a filthy 
look to their purlieus. Below 
them the ground is boggy, and 
broken into knolls. 

Granite, bare and smooth,! hr. 
like that on the route of the 
Grimsel, above Handek. Descent 
to 

Croix d' Arolletta, a cross on J hr. 
the brink of a precipice overlook- 
ing Pont, deep below. * View — 
3 peaks of Mt. Paradis and its 
gls. Winding descent, past a 
cataract to 

Pont. Here the peculiar scenery 1 hr. 
ends at 

Bien vill., where a wealthy pea- 
sant will accommodate travellers ; 
2 good chasseurs and guides livo 
here. 

Gioux, or Val Savaranche, 2 J hrs. 

is the principal village in the 



539 Ete. U9.— COURMAYEUR to BOURG S. MAURICE. 540 



valley ; food ; sleeping - quarters 
bad. The cure will receive tra- 
vellers. 

In the lower part of the valley 
the path continues high above the 
river; as it approaches Val d' 
Aosta, * View of Mt. Blanc. Here 
Val de Ehemes joins Val Sava- 
ranche, and both enter the valley 
of Aosta. The end of Val de 
Ehenies appears like a table-land 
on the mountain - side, studded 
with villages, rich in meadows 
and vines, walnut and chestnut 
trees. 

Descent is rapid, fatiguing, and 
difficult. 

3Jhrs. Villeneuve. Here there is 
neither decent inn nor car, so you 
must be prepared to continue on 
foot to 

lfhr. Aosta (Ete. 134). 



Rte. 149.— COUHMAYETJB to 
BOUHG SAINT MAURICE, by 
the LITTLE ST. BERNAEJ). 

COURMAYEUR I Hrs. 

to Hrs. I Hospice . . i£ 

J Pre St. Didier 1 Cantine . . i 
" Cantine . . 3! j Bourg ... 3 

This is one of the easiest passes 
over the Alps, and one of the 
most ancient. These and other 
reasons render it probable that 
Hannibal made his famous pas- 
sage into Italy by it. 

A mule over the pass, 12 frs., muleteer, 
12 frs. — total, 24 frs. Chars can pass. 



The path is throughout broad enough 
for the country-carts, Carr.-road from 
Courniayeur to Pre St. Didier (carr. 4 fr.), 
also from Hospice to Bourg St. Maurice. 
(1863). 

From Courmayeur, a short foot- 
cut by rt. of river to 

Pre St. Didier (Ete. 134). 1 hr. 
Ascent begins at once in zigzags. 

La Balme vill. ; note where 1 J hr. 
avalanches from Mt. Cramont 
(Cremonis jugum) fall into ravine, 
so that its snow often covers the 
stream as with a bridge, until 
late in autumn. Here is the 
supposed place where Hannibal 
found the road destroyed and the 
bridge of snow. 

La Tuille vill. {Inn, small'. § hr. 
[Path 1. over Camp of St. Thomas 
to the valley of Aosta.] Eoad 
turns sharp rt. at the bridge, and 
ascends through vill. Font Serrant 
to 

Cantine. Food ; then an 2 hrs. 
open plain. In the middle is the 
highest point, and beyond, L, is 
the Hospice. On the plain are 
Celtic remains ; the circle of stones 
is called Cirque oVAnnibal. There 
is also the Colonne de Joux, 20 ft. 
by 3 ft. built with stone from the 
Cramont. Close to a little lake 
is the 

Hospice {Inn, tolerably com- 1J hr. 
fortable, very civil landlord ; good 
head-quarters for excursions). In 
one part of the Hospice lives a 
monk, who furnishes gratuitous 
hospitality to needy travellers, 
and in the other part is the Inn, 
1 or 2 dogs are kept here. 

History. — The Hospice belongs 
to the military and religious Order 
of SS. Maurice et Lazare. It 
was founded by St. Bernard, but 



541 Me. 150 . — SALLENCHES to L'HOPITAL C0NFLAN8. 542 



Mules and side-saddles, 8 fr. to the Col, 
15 to Courmayeur. 

Dil. at inconvenient hours to Moutiers, 
and thence to Albert ville and Chamousset 
Stat., on rly. to Chanibery (Rte. 156). 

Stony path to Chapiu (3 hrs.) on way 
to Col de la Seigne. 



nothing of its history is pre- 
served ; though, if known, it would 
perhaps surpass in early import- 
ance that of the Great St. Ber- 
nard; for Celtic remains exist, 
and foundations of a Roman brick 
temple are found on the col, near 
the column. 

[Easy ascent of Mt. Vallaisan, 
1 hr. ; or the Belvedere, ifhr., more 
difficult, but a finer view. Mt. 
Blanc, not seen from the Col, is, 
from either summit, a grand ob- 
ject. However, the views are 
inferior to the Cramont.] 

Descent begins immediately 
from the Hospice. 

§ hr. Cantine ; refreshments. The 
road takes to the rt. bank of the 
stream, and continues over pas- 
tures like those of the Col de 
Balme ; then descends steeply to 

ljhr. St. Germain vill. (Inn, very 
poor). 

Thence, by steep zigzags to a 

Bridge over La Recluse, which 
is overhung by a great bank of 
gypsum, called Roche Blanche. In 
situation it perfectly agrees with 
Polybius's account, in the passage 
of Hannibal, of such a rock, and 
the events which occurred there. 
This is one of the chief points of 
evidence that by this pass of the 
Alps, Hannibal entered Italy. 

Following the mule-path or the 
long zigzags of the new high- 
road, 

1 hr. Scez vill. 

J hr. Bourg St. Maurice ( Inn : H. 

dcs Voyageurs), a poor village at 
the junction of several valleys. 

See Rtc. 156 for roads to 
Chambery and over Col dTseran. 



Ete. 150.-BALLEITCHES to 
L'HOPITAL C0NFLANS (AL- 
BERTVILLE), by TJGXNE. 

SALLENCHES to Hours. 
Flumet, char-road ends ... 4^ 
Ugine, char-road begins again . 4 
Albertville (L'Hopital) . . if 

Sallenches (Rte. 138). Ascent 
in zigzags ; beautiful views from 
them. The Aiguilles de Varens 
rise grandly in front ; and all the 
peaks and glaciers of Mt. Blanc 
are seen. 

Comblori vill. ; few places havel hr. 
finer views. A little beyond it is 
the highest part of the road, thence 
quitting the valley of the Arve 
on a level to 

Megeve {Inn: Soleil d'Or). 1J hr. 

[Ascent of Mt. Joli, 8670 ft., 
may be most easily ascended (5 
hrs. walk going and returning). 
Finest point of view on the W. 
side of Mt. Blanc. It may also be 
reached from Sallcnchcs, St. Ger- 
vais, or Contamines. There is a 
footpath I m. before Megeve, to St. 
Gervais. Views all the way.] 

Flumet, a little town. Ruins 2 hrs. 
of castle. Char-road ends. Road 
in progress. 



543 



ttte. 151.— GENEVA to CHAMBER?. 



544 



Hilly nmle-patli begins along- 
narrow valley of Arly. 

2hrs. Heri vill. {Inn: Entree des 
Voyageurs), surrounded by mtns. 
covered with pines. The path, in 
many places overhangs the Arly. 
Celebrated walnut-trees. The oil 
of their nuts is an article of corn- 



2hrs. TJgine (Inns: Balances; 
Grande Maison), ill-built town; 
3000 Inhab. Fairs of cattle and 
mules. To the N. a square tower, 
flanked by other towers, winch 
defended the Castle between 
Annecy and Aiguebelle (Kte. 
152), attacked in the 9th cent, 
by the Saracens. Char - road 
begins and leads through a deep 
and rich valley. 

If hr. Albertville, formerly called 
L'Hopital (Inns: H. des Ba- 
lances, good; Etoile du Nord). 
Pop. 1500. Clean wide streets. 
It is one of the nicest little towns 
in Savoy ; since the establishment 
of good roads, it has steadily 
increased in importance. 

Diligences by Faverges to Annecy — to 
Moutiers and Chamousset Stat, on rly. to 
Chambery. 

[Up valley of Beaufort, 12 m. 
mule-path, to St. Maxime de Beau- 
fort, its chief town ( Inn kept by 
Henri Martin, pretty good). At 
junction of 5 valleys, surmounted 
by cols more or less difficult to 
climb on foot, averaging 6500 ft. 

Between 2 of these valleys, called 
the Doron and Dorinet, rise the 
Bocks of Enclaves — a granite 
group round an oval basin, so 
shut in that its waters are dis- 
charged only underground or over 
fine falls into the valley of La 
Gite (the finest of all in scenery).] 



On the other side of the Arly, 
J m. from Albertville, is the 
picturesque old walled town of 

Confians. It has 1 or 2 curious 
old buildings. View from its 
Promenade towards the Grand 
Chartreuse. 



Rte. 151.— GENEVA to CHAM- 
BEKY, by AIX LES BAINS. 

(Railway.) 



Eng. m. 
GENEVA to 
Culoz . . 42 



Eng. m. 
Aix les Bains 12 
Chambery . 10 



From Geneva (see Kte. 53) to 
Culoz Stat. 

At Culoz Stat, the Lyons and Geneva 
line of rly. is left, and the Victor Em- 
manuel line taken. The second-class 
carriages are very inferior. Take seats on 
rt. for view. 

After Culoz the Khone is 
crossed. Then marshy meadows ; 
then a tunnel, from which the rly. 
emerges on the shore of Lac du 
Bourget. Views over the lake 
and the opposite range of the 
Dent du Chat. 

Chatillon Stat. rt. On a pro^ 
jecting promontory the castle of 
Chatillon. The rly. continues 
close to "the lake until it diverges 
2 m. E. to reach 

Aix les Bains Stat. (Inns: H. 
Imperial ; H. Venat, near the 
stat.; H. Guillard. Numerous 



Rte. 151.— GENEVA to CHAMBERY. 



546 



boarding-houses and lodgings. 
Maison Arc Eomain is a good 
pension). 

This watering-place was known 
to the Eomans as Aqux Gratianx. 
Resorted to, on account of its 
springs and beautiful country 
round it, by 3000 visitors yearly ; 
many come from Lyons, more for 
amusement than bathing. 

English church service during 
the season. 

Physicians. — Dr. Despine and 
M. d'Avat, who speak English, 
and M. Dardel, are well spoken 
of. 

Mineral Springs are sulphu- 
reous ; temp, between ioo° and 
1 1 7 0 Fahr. (The Alum Spring 
contains no alum,> They are 
chiefly used for douche baths. 
The appearance of the baths is 
not tempting. There is a regular 
code of laws as to the baths, &c. ; 
and every conceivable complaint 
is curable by one or other of the 
springs. 

Casino. Balls are held twice a 
week here. There is also a read- 
ing-room. 

Roman Remains ; viz. — Tri- 
umphal Arch, in debased Doric 
style, of the 3rd or 4th centuries, 
raised by T. Pompeius Cam- 
panus; Temple of Diana, Ionic, 
the cella is quite perfect ; it can 
be best examined from the garden 
of the cure, upon which it abuts. 
Roman Baths are entered from 
Madame Chabert's garden. The 
arch of the hypocaust is a perfect 
piece of construction, worth an 
architect's consideration. 

Caverns of St. Paul (tickets, 
50 c), contain huge stalactites. 

[Branch Railway to Annecy in 
1 \ hr., by Albens, Rumilly, then 
up the valley of the Ficr to 
Marcellaz and Rovagny (see Rte. 

Kp. Switz. 



Excursions. 

a. Waterfall of Grezy, in a 
ravine, 3 m. from Aix. The 
watercourse is covered over by 
vines on trellises, and the water 
falls among rocks surmounted 
with crazy old sawing - mills. 
Old castle near it. 

b. Haute Combe, a Cistercian 
monastery, 1225, on the opposite 
shore of the Lac du Bourget (full 
of fish ; good boats), and close 
under the cliffs of Mt. du Chat. 
Its Gothic chapels were the burial- 
places of the princes of Savoy, 
canons of Citeaux, &c. Among 
them are Boniface, Archbishop of 
Canterbury, Amedeus V., VI., 
and VII., Jeanne do Montfort, 
Peter of Savoy, &c. The con- 
vent was pillaged and dese- 
crated at the French Revolution. 
It was rebuilt in a bad florid 
Gothic style about 1824 by the 
King of Sardinia. Boat across 
lake to Haute Combe, 8 frs. : 
may be sent round to meet the 
traveller at Bordeaux (<#, below). 

e. Phare de Gessens, a tower 
near Haute Combe. View de- 
scribed by Rousseau. 

d. Ascent of Mt. Dent du Chat. 
Cross the lake from Aix to Bor- 
deaux. From thence the high 
road to Lyons by Yenne ascends 
the mtn. Vieivs over the lake. 

e. Mont du Chat, hr., one of 
the most ancient passes from 
Franco into Italy. It was pro- 
bably the most frequented until 
the construction of the road by 
Les Echelles. 

Passage of Hannibal. — Here the 
army under Hannibal probably 
encountered its first difficulties in 
passing the Alps, having to fight 

T 



547 Bte. 152.— GENEVA by ANNECY to AIG UEBELLE. 548 



the mountaineers, who kept watch 
during the day only. Having 
ascended the road to Vienne, he 
led his army across the country 
of the Allobroges, by Bourgoin, 
les Abrets, and St. Genix d'Aoste 
(Augusta Allobrogum), nearly 
opposite to Yenne; thence, by 
Chevalu (Leviscum), across the 
Mont du Chat to Chambery (Le- 
mincum). From Chambery the 
army passed to Montmeillan, and 
up Yal Isere to Connans, Mou- 
tiers, and St. Maurice, and passed 
into Italy by the Little St. Ber- 
nard. 

View from the pass towards 
France, the scene is most fer- 
tile and extensive. 

Descend from the Col towards 
Yenne, then turn by a 

i hr. Path to the 1. Follow it to 

ihr. Inn (small). Thenceforward 
a scramble ; novices will want a 
guide. 

ljhr. Dent du Chat, summit, 5000 ft. 
*View E. over the deep blue lake 
to the rich valley of Chambery, 
speckled by hamlets and villages ; 
far beyond are the nits, which 
bound Val Isere, and the snows 
of the Dauphiny Alps.] 

Those who enter Switzerland by Aix, 
may cross by voiturier in one day to 
Bonneville, and next morning to St. 
Martin, so as to allow ample time for 
reaching Chamouni on the 2nd day. 



From Aix the rly., after skirting 
the S. corner of the lake, leads 
across a fertile plain to 

Chambery Stat, (Bte. 154). 



Rte. 152. -GENEVA by AN- 
NECY to AIGUEBELLE, on 
the MONT CENIS ROAD. 

GENEVA to Eng. m. 

Eng. m. Fa verges . 16 

St. Julien . 6 Albert ville 12 

Annecy . 21 Aiguebelle . 15 

Since the completion of the rly. 
this route is little frequented. 

St. Julien, on the frontier of 

Savoy. The passports of tra- 
vellers are examined. The bag- 
gage is searched a little farther on. 

Cruseilles. Town of 1300 
Inhab., at S. base of Mt. Saleve. 

The road traverses the romantic 
Pont de la Caille, perhaps the 
loftiest in the world, 656 ft. above 
the Usses. 

Annecy (Inn : H. de Geneve, 27 
clean ; Macon wine ; — H. d Angle- 
terre). Fine cheese is made in 
the mtns. 

A picturesque and clean old 
town, 9000 Inhab., at the N. ex- 
tremity of the Lake of A., long 
associated with manufactures. The 
linen bleacheries were established 
in 1650. There are cotton- works, 
maniifactories of black glass, of 
sulphuric acid, of printed cottons, 
&c, and in the neighbourhood a 
vein of lignite is worked. 

Objects of interest : — Castle, now 
barracks, once the residence of 
the family of Genevois-Nemours ; 
Palace of the old Bishops ; Cathe- 
dral, Gothic, with its sanctuary. 
In the Ch. of St. Francois, modern, 



549 



Rte. 154. — CHAMBER Y to TURIN. 



550 



are deposited the relics of St. 
Francois de Sales, and the Mere 
(Sainte) Chantal. The translation 
of their relics from the Cathedral 
was made in 1826, with great 
ceremony. 

Along the shore of the Lake 
(1400 ft.) runs an Avenue and 
promenade, where fairs are held. 
* Views of the mtn. and lake. 
Bronze statue to Bertliollet, the 
chemist. There are many pretty 
walks in its neighbourhood, the 
only drawback being the swamps. 
The lake abounds in fish — the 
lotte, and a fish peculiar to this 
lake, the vairon. Good boating. 

Excursions to Chateau Duing 
on the lake ; to Pont de la Caille. 

A steamer, the gift of the Em p. 
Napoleon III., plies on the lake. 

Rail to Aix les Bains by 
Kumilly and Albens. 

28 m. Albertville (see Rte. 150). 
Turn to the 1. near the junction 
of the Isere with the Arc 

15 m. Aiguebelle Stat, (Rte. 154), on 
the rly. from Chambery to Turin, 
or to Chamousset Stat, on the 
same rly. (diligence). 



Rte. 154. — CHAMBERY to 
TURIN— MONT CENIS. 

CHAMBER Y (rly.) Iff. 

to m. St. Jean do 

Montmelian . 9 Maurienne . 43 

\ Aiguebelle . 23 St. Michel . 8 



ST. MICHEL (dil.) m. 

to m. Grande Croix . 8 

Modane . ,10$ Molaret . 8$ 

Verney . . 7 Susa ... 6 
Lanslebourg . •;£■ 



SUSA to Turin (rly.) . . 34 

This is the easiest way across 
the Alps, but the least interesting. 
Vieivs from descent towards Italy. 

Ely. to St. Michel about 3 hrs. Dili- 
gence 10 hrs. from St. Michel to Susa. 
Susa Rly. to Turin, 2 hrs. Total, 16 hrs., 
including stoppages. Voiturier 200 fr., 
posting 300 fr., all renforts and tolls in- 
cluded. The Inns on the road are dear, 
bad, and dirty. 

Chambery Stat. (Rte. 15 1) (Ital. 
Ciamberi) (Inns : H, de France, 
near the rly. stat., good; H. des 
Princes, handsome house, good 
cuisine, and reasonable ; le Petit 
Paris ; H. de l'Europe ; chef lieu 
of Dept., formerly the capital of 
Savoy, and an archbishop's see, 
20,000 Inhab., pleasantly situated 
within a circle of mountains. 

Cathedral, a Gothic building 
(1430), painted in imitation of 
the stone tracery of the 15 th 
centy., is neither large nor in- 
teresting. 

Castle of the Dukes of Savoy, 
a modernized building, now resi- 
dence of the Prefet, and orna- 
mented by a square tower of 
1 3th centy. Chapel (b. 1415 ) is in 
the style of the Sainte Chapelle at 
Paris, and has lancet windows of 
painted glass. The interior is 
painted in imitation of Flam- 
boyant tracery. Promenades round 
the castle. Vieivs of surrounding 
mtns. 

Entering the town from the 
Ply. Stat., you pass & fountain, or- 
namented with elephants, erected 
to the memory of General de 
Boigne, a native of Chambery, 
died 1830, who made a fortune 
T 2 



551 



Bte. 154.— MONT CENIS PASS. 



552 



in the E. Indies, in the service of 
the Kajah Scindia, and bestowed 
1 3 7,oooL on his native place. He 
founded two hospitals. 

[A pleasant excursion of a day or two 
may be made from Chanibery to the 
baths of Aix, and the Lac du Bourget 
(Rte. 151) J 

Leaving Chambery, the sceneiy 
becomes fine ; the curves and gra- 
- clients formidable. 

Castle of Batie, L, and farther 
on, that of Ghignin, are links of 
a line of forts, on whose towers 
watch-fires were lighted in case 
of foreign inroads in olden times. 
This chain of old castles con- 
tinues up the valleys of the 
Arc and Isere without interrup- 
tion. To the rt. is Mt. Gre- 
nier, 5 700 ft. The side facing 
Chambery is a cliff, made by a mass 
of the mtn. having broken off in 
1 248 : it overwhelmed the country 
at its base. Marks are still visible 
in the hillocks, now vineyards, 
called Les Abymes de Myans. 
Mt. Grenier stands in the angle 
between the valleys of Chambery 
and of Gresivaudan (which, leads 
to Grenoble). 

Chateau Bayard. Its ruins 
stand on the 1. bank of the Isere, 
a few miles down, the cradle of 
the illustrious knight " sans peur 
et sans reproche." {See Handbook 
of Feance.) 

Route de Grenoble Stat View. 
[Near this the Railroad to 
Grenoble branches off, following 
the valley of the Isere, which 
opens to the S.] 

9 m. Montmelian Stat, {Inn : H. 
des Voyageurs, not good.) Little 
town on the rt. bank of the Isere, 
at the junction of four roads. 



1. Mont Cenis. 2. Tarentaise and 
Little St. Bernard (Rte. 156). 3. From 
Grenoble; Ely., 1864. 4. From Chambery. 

The castle of Montmelian was 
long the bulwark of Savoy against 
France. Henry IV., while be- 
sieging it in 1600, was nearly 
killed by a cannon-shot from its 
walls. 

[Omnibuses to Baths of Ale- 
vard.2 

View of Mt. Blanc, for some 
miles, from -the rly., which runs 
along an embankment by the 
river. 

Coise vill., a mineral spring 
containing iodine, renowned as a 
specific against goitre. 

St. Pierre d' Albigny Stat. {Inn, 6 m 
good), a neat little town on oppo- 
site side of river. The Isere 
occupies only a portion of its wide 
bed. Good wine grown here. 

Chateau de Miolans, a little 
beyond, is built on a jutting rock 
800 or 900 ft. above the Isere. 
Views from its platform up and 
down the valley, and across into 
the valley of the Arc; for it is 
nearly opposite to the confluence 
of the Arc and the Isere. 

Chamousset Stat. Diligence 2 ra 
to Albertville, Ugine, and Annecy. 
Here the rly. leaves the valley of 
the Isere, and takes that of the 
Arc or Maurienne. 

Aiguebelle (Inns : Poste ; Par- 5 m 
faite Union.) Unhealthy marshes. 
Castle above the town, called La 
Charbonniere, was the birthplace 
of several counts of Savoy. 

St. Jean de Maurienne Stat. 20 
{Inns : Europe, Poste, Voyageurs, 
all indifferent), capital of the pro- 
vince of Maurienne (3000 Inhab.), 
1800 ft., the original seat of the 



553 Rte. 154. — CHAMBER Y to TURIN. 554 



Dukes or Counts of Savoy. Cathe- 
dral, 15 th centy., contains fine 
wood-carving, and a stone reli- 
quary. The town is unhealthy. 
[To Moutiers (Rte. 15 6) by the Col 
de la Platiere in 10 hrs. A mule 
may be taken to the top. Descent 
through Yal de Nant-brun. * View 
of Mont Blanc. 

For passes into Dauphine see 
Rte; 158J 

7m. St. Michel Stat. (Inn: Post, 
dirty; H. de la Samaritaine, 
clean beds). Here rly. ends until 
the Great Tunnel at Modane is 
opened, or the rly. over the Mt. 
Cenis be completed. 

This is the stopping place for those who 
travel from Paris to Turin in 3 days ; the 
1st night being spent at Macon. There is 
a good Buffet at the rly. station. 

Diligences for Susa await the trains, a 
journey of 10 hrs. Families will do well 
to hire a carriage here. Borgo, at the 
Post^is a respectable vetturino, and has 
good carriages. 

The rly. over Mt. Cenis is far advanced, 
and may be practicable in 1868. 

Diligence-road from St. Michel 
up a wild and beautiful gorge. 

ljhr., Tunnel of Mont Cenis, com- 
menced 1 86 1 by the government 
of Turin, and carried on under a 
convention with France. 

Its large works are by the side 
of the road, and the entrance to 
the tunnel is some height above 
it. The tunnel is 4360 ft. above 
the sea, and 3480 below (but 16 
m. W, of) the top of Mt. Cenis: 
it will be 7 or 8 miles long, with- 
out any shaft. The rock is cut 
by machines worked by air that 
has been compressed by water- 
power. The machinery for com- 
pressing the air, and the tubes 
that convey it, under compression, 
to the tunnel, are on a vast scale. 
The boring-machines are each of 



them of 25 o horse power, and act 
simultaneously on both sides of 
the mtn., here and at Bardoncche. 
They easily penetrate the rock, on 
the same principle that rocks are 
bored for blasting ; that is to say, 
by the rapid blows of a solid 
chisel, which is turned slightly on 
its axis between each blow. After 
the rock has been bored simul- 
taneously with many parallel 
holes, the machine is withdrawn 
and the rock is blasted ; then the 
cavity is enlarged and framed 
with masonry in the usual way. 
These latter processes are so te- 
dious that the progress is only 
1 metre a day at each end. The 
same compressed air that works 
the machines affords powerful 
ventilation to the tunnel. It also 
cools it by the cold necessarily 
evolved during its escape from 
compression. 

Modane. (Inn: Lion d'Or.) 
The gorge of the Arc serves as a 
tremendous fosse to Fort VEsseillon 
or Bramans, built on the opposite 
height, and commanding with its 
many-mouthed batteries, rising 
tier above tier, the passage to Italy. 
Under the treaty for the annexa- 
tion of Savoy to France, it is to 
be razed. A light bridge spans 
the gorge, which separates the fort 
from the road. 

Verney. Near this, Horace 
Walpole lost his lap-dog, which 
was carried off by a wolf pouncing 
down upon it from the forest. 

Termignon. [Path to the Col 

de Vanoiso (Etc. 1 5 7).] 

Lanslebourg (Inns : Hotel 2 J hi* 
Koyal ; H. de l'Europe, humble 
but tolerable), a wretched vil- 
lage, full of cabarets, at the 
foot of the ascent of Mont Cenis, 
4400 ft. above the level of the 



555 



tite. 15L—PASS OF MONT CENlS. 



$56 



sea. From this point numerous 
excursions among the High Alps 
may be made, and, indifferent as 
the inn is, it seems excellent after 
those found among the mtns. 

Here in the winter the wheeled dil. 
from St. Michel is changed for one on 
sledges, and carriages are dismounted and 
put on sledges to cross the snow. 14 men 
are often required, and 12 mules, to con- 
duct the dil. across. 

Time of ascent from Lanslebourg to the 
summit, 2 hrs. 

Passing a large barrack, the 
road ascends by easy zigzags. 

3 hrs. La Ramasse, Eefuge No. 18. 
Here sledges are kept; and in 
whiter, in deep snow, travellers 
may descend in one of them to 
Lanslebourg in 10 minutes ! The 
sledge is guided by a peasant, 
who places himself in front ; and 
from the experience gained in 
collecting (ramasser) and trans- 
porting wood in this manner, they 
are so skilful, that there is little 
or no risk in this extraordinary 
mode of travelling. The perpen- 
dicular descent is nearly 2000 ft. 

Summit of Pass, 6825 ft. 
Thence descent to the plain of 
Mont Cenis, near the margin of a 
small lake, famed for its trout : 
the fishery belongs to the monks 
of the Hospice. 

IJhr. Posthouse of Mont Cenis 
(Monte Cenisio); and the Old 
Posthouse, rough, but tolerable, 
good head-quarters for Alpine 
excursions. [Ascent of the Little 
Mont Cenis pass to Susa com- 
mences.] 

Just beyond, is the Hospice, 

- f. by Charlemagne, who crossed 
Mont Cenis with an army in the 
9th centy. The existing edifice, 
built by Napoleon, is occupied, 
half by carbineers who examine 
passports ; half by Benedictine 
monks, who exercise gratuitous 



hospitality towards poor travellers. 
The house contains two or three 
tolerable bedrooms for guests of 
the higher class. Near the Hos- 
pice is a loopholed wall, for the 
defence of the pass. The road is 
tolerably level to 

Grande Croix, a wretched Inn 
at the lower extremity of the 
plain, with one or two taverns. 

Descent begins by tourni- 
quets to the little plain of St. 
Nicolas, over which it is car- 
ried on a causeway, out of the 
reach of avalanches. Leaving 
this plain, View of Bochemelon 
Mt. 1. : on its top is the ch. of 
N. D. des Neiges, visited Aug. 6, 
every year, by an incredible num- 
ber of pilgrims. Men, women, 
and children ascend, on the day 
before, f of the distance, sleep 
out on the mt., and complete the 
ascent early next day, so as to 
hear morning mass upon the sum- 
mit. The road now skirts a dreary 
ravine. 

Molaret, the first Piedmontese 
hamlet. [A footpath descends 
from below the posthouse, and is 
a short cut to Susa.] From some 
of the zigzags are Views of the 
valley of the Dora towards Turin, 
but the sides of the mt. are 
barren. A gallery is passed, built 
under a torrent. It is only used 
when the main-road is dangerous 
or destroyed by the torrent. Long 
zigzags to 

Susa Stat {Inns : La Posta ; 2\ hr 
H. de France, charges unreason- 
able; II Sole). 



Hence rly. to Turin 3 times a day, 
performing the journey in 2 hrs. 

Turin Terminus (Inns: Hotel 
de l'Europe, the best ; Grande 
Bretagne ; H. Feder ; Hotel de la 



557 Ute. 156. — CHAMBER Y to LAN8LEB0UBG. 558 



Ligurie, near the Klwy. Stat., 
good). Omnibuses run to the 
different hotels on the arrival of 
each train. 

For Tukik, see the Handbook 
for Noeth Italy. 

The voituriers now keep their horses, 
&c., at Susa, but are generally to be 
engaged at Turin. If engaged in due 
time they will send horses on to Grande 
Croix, and change at that place, thus 
reaching Modane, or perhaps St. Jean and 
Chambery, from Turin in one day. Time 
actually occupied on the road — Susa to 
Grande Croix, 4 hrs. ; Summit, 1 hr. 
10 min. ; Lanslebourg, 50 min. ; Modane, 
2, hrs. 25 min.; St. Michel, 1 hr. 25 min. 
Total : Susa to St. Michel, 9 hrs. 35 min., 
exclusive of stoppages. 



Rte. 156. — CHAMBERY to 
LANSLEBOURG, by the TA- 
RENTAISE— COL B'lSERAN 
—COL BE LA LEISSE. 

Chambery to Lanslebourg, 122 
m. 

CHAMBERY to 



Hrs. 

foot 2£ 

» n 



Eng. m. Ste. Foi, 

Chamous set,rly 1 7 Tignes 

Albertville,dil.i4£ Laval „ if 

Moutiers „ 17I- Bonneval „ 4^ 

Aime „ 10 Lanslebourg j, 4 

St. Maurice „ 8| 

From Chambery Stat by rly. 
(see Rte. 154) to 

Chamousset Stat. The Arc 
falls into the Isere. 

Diligences to Moutiers in 6 hrs., and 
thence on to Bourg St. Maurice. 

The road is straight, bare, and 
dusty, to 

14} m. Albertville (described in Rte. 
150). 



Here our road turns S., follow- 
ing the Isere, and entering the 
Tarentaise district. The lower 
ranges of the mts. are wooded, 
the valley retired and pastoral. 
Ruins of Castles. The road winds 
through shady walnut and chest- 
nut trees. 

Cataract. Near the hamlet of 
Petit Coeur. 

Aigueblanche, a pretty vill.lGm. 
Here the road rises, in order to 
avoid the gorge of the Isere, and 
then descends again to 

Moutiers Tarentaise (Inn: Cou- 3 J m. 
ronne, improved under M. Vizioz, 
good cuisine). 

Salt-works of Moutiers produce 
1500 tons of salt yearly, extracted 
from three springs rising at the 
base of a vast mass of limestone, 
in the deep ravine of the Doron, 
about a mile above its junction 
with the Isere. They are warm, 
and the strongest 99 0 Fahren- 
heit. During the great earth- 
quake of Lisbon, the salines of 
Moutiers ceased to flow for 48 
hours : when the reflux took 
place, the quantity was increased 
but the brine was weaker. There 
are 3 evaporating-houses filled 
with fagots of blackthorn. The 
water is pumped to the top, and 
allowed to drop slowly through 
the woodstacks. The proportion 
of salt after each operation is 
nearly doubled. After passing 
through 3 sets of fagots the brine 
is passed through a house of 
ropes, down which the brine 
trickles. When the brine has 
gone through the 4 stages, and 
acquired the strength of 20 per 
cent., it is conducted into boiling 
pans, and the salt is crystallized 
in the usual manner. By this 
system, only one-sixteenth of the 
fuel is consumed which would bo 



559 Me. 156. — CHAMBER Y to LANSLEBOURG. 560 



required for evaporating the weak 
brine as it conies from the springs. 
The fagots are changed once in 
5 or 6 years : they acquire a coat- 
ing of selenite which, when broken 
off, resembles the branches of 
encrinites. The whole is readily 
shown for a small fee. (See Bex 
salt-works, Kte. 56). 

The diligence to Moutiers to Bourg in 
1859 started at 3-30 a.m., and it was not 
easy to get any other conveyance. The 
walk is somewhat long and dusty along 
the high-road. 

The road goes through some 
thoroughly Swiss pastoral scenery, 
and then passes through a gorge 
which opens at 

St. Marcel vDl. The scenery 
is very fine, but the inhabitants 
are filthy and decrepit. 

10 m. Aime (Axuma), one of the 
chief towns of the Centrones. 
On a hill above it are the remains 
of Koman fortifications : also some 
round towers of great antiquity. 
[1 hr. walk from Aime, on the 
mts, to the S., are the lead-mines 
of MacoL] 

The valley above Aime, though 
fine, is not so picturesque as 
below ; and the road, though still 
a diligence-road, is not so good. 

The vine grows as far as 

Bellentre vill., which is nearly 
opposite to the village and valley 
of Landri [that lead to the mines 
of Pesey, which, with those of 
Macot, are the most celebrated in 
Savoy. They are near the foot 
of the glacier of Mont Pourri, 
and more than 5000 ft. above the 
sea : the ore is a fine-grained sul- 
phuret of lead ; it contains about 
60 ounces of silver per ton. Up 
valley of Pesey is a view of the 
glaciers and snows of Mt. Pourri, 
sometimes called ChafTe-Quarre.] 

As our route ascends, the pass 



of Little St. Bernard (Kte. 149) 
opens to the observer a more ob- 
vious course than that of the road 
up the Isere, which turns again 
from St. Maurice to the E. and 
S.S.E., and continues in this di- 
rection to its source. 

Bourg St. Maurice (Berigen- 8 J in 
trum). Inn: H. des Voyageurs, 
tolerable. (Bte. 149.) 

Beyond St. Maurice there is at present 
only a bridle-path. It requires one day 
to go from Bourg St. Maurice to La Yal, 
and another across the Col d'Iseran to 
Lanslebourg and the Mont Cenis. The 
Inns above this are bad and extortionate. 

La Tuille de Ste. Foi (Inns : 3 hrs 
a good guide and sportsman, Fran- 
cois Buet, resides here. He can 
accommodate two or three tra- 
vellers, and can furnish trout from 
the Lac de Tignes. The Inns at 
La Tuille are bad, but Kuet is 
honest and trustworthy.) Bears 
and chamois occur here. 

The deep ravine is too narrow 
to allow the path to run near to 
the torrent. On the opposite side 
the glaciers that stretch from the 
Chaffe-Quarre along the crest of 
the mountains, offer a scene of 
grandeur scarcely to be surpassed 
in the Western Alps. 

La G-ure. Here, perhaps, the 
view is finest. The vill. seems to 
be overhung by the glacier above 
it. More than once this village 
has been destroyed by the fall- of 
ice and rocks ; but the danger is 
defied for the sake of the little 
land which its terrace above the 
Isere affords. The white lines of 
many falls seem to stream down 
upon the village from the melting 
glaciers above. 

Ascent to a ridge. After cross- 
ing it, the path leads steeply 
down to the Isere in the depth of 
the ravine. Here rocks overhang 
the pass. A fragile bridge, over a 



561 



Bte. 156.— TIGNES— COL d'ISEBAN. 



562 



lateral stream, enables the travel- 
ler to ascend the valley. A little 
beyond this bridge the defile opens 
into 

Brevieres plain and village. 
Here the Isere is crossed, and the 
path ascends, through a rugged 
pine-forest, very high to avoid a 
ravine. In passing over this 
ridge, there is one spot where a 
cleft in the mountain-side can be 
passed only upon the trees, rocks, 
and stones, which the peasants 
have jammed into it, to form a 
path, which thence descending 
almost to the river-side, continues 
a short way only, before another 
expansion of the valley forms a 
little well-cultivated plain, in which 
lies the chief village of the val- 
ley,— 

J hrs. Tignes (about 6000 ft.) (Inn : 
small and dirty ; kept by Floren- 
tin Revial. Charges equal to 
those of a regular hotel.) The 
approach to it, from the defile 
below, is very striking. The in- 
habitants are robust and inde- 
pendent, and are great breeders of 
mules and cattle. This mountain 
village is beautifully sit. at the 
foot of the Aiguille de la Sassiere, 
the highest point in the main 
chain of the Alps between Mont 
Blanc and Monte Yiso. [By the 
Col de Bhemes, or Col de Goletta, 
leading by the Yal de Khemes to 
Val d'Aosta.J 

There are two passes leading to Lansle- 
bourg and the Maurienne ; the most fre- 
quented is that by the Col d'Iseran. 
Another more interesting, and rather 
shorter, but higher and more laborious, 
is called the Col de la Leisse. 

By Col d'Iseran. A steep rug- 
ged path leads up the int. side, to 
pass another of those ravines, which 
in this valley so singularly alter- 
nate with the little plains. This, 



the last, separates the plain of 
Tignes from that of Laval. The 
forest trees, from their greater 
elevation, are more stunted, the 
rocks more denuded ; and the 
whole passage between the two 
villages is unmatched in savage 
wildness. In the midst, a fragile 
bridge crosses the torrent, and 
soon after the traveller finds him- 
self in the plain of Laval ; where 
barley is raised, and where irriga- 
tion is so well managed, that the 
vegetation is luxuriant. 

Laval. (A miserable hovel islj 
called an Inn.) It is the highest 
church village in the Val Isere : 
and surrounded by lofty moun- 
tains, which are crested with snow 
and glaciers. At the head of the 
valley, the Col de Galese can 
easily be seen (Ete. 147). Laval 
is centrally placed in a noble 
country, and only wants a better 
inn. 

Besides the Col d'Iseran, there are 3 
passes leading from Laval. 1. A path to 
the W., joining that from Tignes to the 
Col de la Leisse, near the summit of the 
pass. 2. By the Col de Rhemes to Aosta, 
shorter but higher than the Galese, and 
reputed more hazardous. This may be 
taken as conveniently from Tignes, with 
a variation in the ascent. 3. To Ceresol 
by the Col de Galese (Rte. 147). The two 
last are difficult. 

The path mounts in zigzags 
on the 1. bank of the Isere, and 
may require a guide for some dis- 
tance, as the course is confused by 
sheep-tracks; the ascent is easy. 
Towards the summit the track is 
well marked by a line of stone 
pyramids, each of which has a 
niche for some shelter in bad wea- 
ther. Myriads of flowers. 

Col d'Iseran. On looking back 
the vieiv is grand, but not so fine 
as during the descent on the other 
side. Here the traveller looks over 
a thousand peaks, which appear to 



563 



Ete. 160.— PASS OF MONT GENEVBE. 



564 



spring out of the sea of glaciers 
which extends from the Levanna 
to Eoche Melon. 

Descent down an elevated pas- 
turage, which narrows to a valley 
terminating in a defile. From this 
ravine the path is rough and fa- 
tiguing to 

St. Barthelemi pastures and 
chalets. The descent is still steep 
and wearying. The valley of the 
Arc is seen below ; 1., the glaciers 
of the Levanna seem to fill the 
head of the valley. 

4J hrs. Bonneval (Inn kept by Culets, 
an intelligent chasseur, is veiy poor 
and homely, as are all those in the 
valley down to Lanslebourg). 

2 hrs. Bessans ( Inn bad and extor- 
tionate). A high ridge is passed. 

Lans le Villard. Its inhabit- 
ants salt their donkeys for food — 
a practice common in the Taren- 
taise. 

Lanslebourg (Ete. 154). 



Ete. 160. - BEXANQON to 
STJSA, by the PASS of the 
MONT GEtffiVEE. 

BKIANCON to I Eng. m. 

Eng. m. I Cesanne . .7 
Bourg Mont Susa . . .22 
Genevre . . 8 | 

Diligence to Susa, but no post-horses. 
B1 m. 

From Briangon (described in 
Handbook of France) the valley of 
the Durance is ascended by a gorge 
to 

La Vachette, a hamlet at the 



foot of the Mt. Genevre. Here, 
on the 1., opens the Vol de Neu- 
vache, a fine, large, and productive 
valley. 

The ascent commences through 
a pine forest, and leads by zigzags 
to the col. Views of Briancon 
and its forts, the valleys of the 
Durance and Neuvache, and the 
surrounding mts, : these much re- 
lieve the tedium of ascent. 

Mont Genevre. Its plain (over 
6000 ft.) is remarkable for the 
culture of barley, at that height. 

Bourg Mont Genevre. Here is 8 m. 
the 

Custom-house, a troublesome 
place to those who enter La belle 
France. 

On the plain, and almost from 
a common source, 2 rivers rise — 
the Durance, which flows into the 
Mediterranean, and the Doira- 
Susana or Dora Kiparia, into the 
Adriatic. 

Obelisk, 60 ft., to commemorate 
the construction, in 1807, of this 
fine road over the Alps. 

Descent by zigzags to the bed 
of the river. 

Cesanne (2 miserable Inns) is 7 m, 
not more than 4 hrs. good walk 
from Briancon. 

Below Cesanne, the course lies 
down the valley to Susa. The 
first important commune in the 
valley is 

Quiz, a large vill. at the en- 8 m. 

trance to the valley of Bardoneche, 
on the line of the rly. to Turin. 
[3 passes to Modane, in the valley 
of the Arc] Tunnel of Mt. Cents, 
now in course of construction, is 
to open out above Bardoneche 
(Ete. 154). 

Salabertrand, memorable for 6 m. 
the battle fought and won by the 



$65 Ute. lQl.—BBlANfON to PIGNEROL. 



566 



Vaudois, under Henri Arnaud, on 
their return to their valleys, after 
expatriation, in 1689, when they 
were opposed by 2500 regular 
intrenched troops, 3 times their 
numbers, and commanded by the 
Marquis de Larrey ; every spot 
around has interest in connexion 
with that event : the mt. by which 
they had descended on the night 
of the battle ; and that by the Col 
de Seu, which they crossed to go 
into their valleys after their vic- 
tory. 

Beyond Salabertrand the valley 
narrows considerably, and, near 

Fort of Exilles, it forms a deep 
and richly wooded defile ; in the 
midst of this the fort is placed, 
perfectly commanding the valley ; 
here the river is crossed, and the 
road thence continues on its rt. 
bank. 

m. Exilles vill. ; tolerable accom- 
modation and much civility will 
be found at the house of the post- 
master. 

8 m. Susa (Rte. 154). 



Rte. 161. — BRIAN90N to 

PIGNEROL, by the COL DE 
SESTRXilRES. 

RIANgON to 



M. Perouse . . 9 
Cesanne . .15 Pignorclle . .12 
Fenestrelles . 19 

The Inns between Briancon and Pigne- 
rol are poor, yet superior to those of 
Dauphiny. 

Post-horses from Fenestrelles to 1'igne- 
l'olles. 



From Briangon as far as 

Cesanne, is the same as in the 15 l 
route last described. The road 
made thence into Italy, by order of 
Napoleon, is more direct than by 
Turin. It is in good order. 

The road from Cesanne crosses 
the Doire, and the ascent imme- 
diately commences, by a series of 
zigzags like that of the descent 
from the Mont Genevre ; a leng- 
thened snakelike course of each, 
can be seen from the other, across 
the valley of the Doire. It soon 
reaches 

Champlas hamlet. Still con- 
tinuing to ascend over fine pas- 
turages, till it reaches 

Col de Sestrieres and chalets. 8 m, 
The plain of the col is nearly 2 m. 
long. View, on the side towards 
Vol Pragelas, is wild and fine, of 
the valley and Mt. Albergian. 

Descent. — The road leads down 
by tourniquets to the banks of the 
Clusone, and to 

Sestrieres, the first vill. 

Traverse vill. (Inn : Rose 6 m. 
Rouge, humble, clean beds). 

Pragelas. The broad bed of 
the river beneath the fine forests 
makes the valley look bare — 
sterile. 

Fenestrelles, a vill. of 800 In- 5 m. 
hab. (bad and dirty Inn). Fort 
of Fenestrelles is a place of great 
strength, which guards the ap- 
proach to Piedmont by this val- 
ley. It rises in terraces from the 
defile formed by the base of Mt. 
Albergian, to the summit of the 
mt. The highest battery is acces- 
sible through a gallery that con- 
tains 3600 steps. A basin covered 
witli grass is on the top, called 
Pre de Catiiwt, from that general 



56? 



Mte. 161.-JBBIANgON to PlGNEBOL. 



568 



having encamped there. The fort 
of Fenestrelles is used as a state 
prison. It is the scene of M. 
Saintine's pretty tale of 6 Pic- 
ciola.' 

The rte. now lies almost entirely 
through the valley of the Clusone. 
It is generally narrow ; but where 
there is cultivation, corn and wine 
abound. The mulberry for silk- 
worms nourishes, and fruit and 
forest trees luxuriate, as they al- 1 
most always do on the side of 
Piedmont. Formerly, this valley 
was filled with a Protestant com- 
munity, but their living in it was 
long prohibited. The Vaudois 
chinches were not permitted out 
of the valleys of Kora, La Tom 
(known also as the valley of Lu- 
cerna and the Val Pelice), St. 
Martin, and Angrogna; but the 
more liberal policy of the Govern- 
ment since 1848 has removed this 
restriction. 

Below Fenestrelles, the route 
passes through numerous villages 
— Montole, Rouse Villaret, and 
Chapelle — before reaching 

9 m. Perosa, or Perouse (Inns : Sole ; 
Antico ; Auberge Rationale), the 
principal town in the valley. 
Valley of St. Martin, one of the 
most interesting of the Protestant 
valleys, is situated directly op- 
posite. 

[FroniPerouse a moderate ascent 
through a beautiful valley leads, 
rt., to Perrier, or Perrero. A little 
above this village the valley forks. 
The N.W. branch, preseiwing the 
name Val de St. Martin, leads, 
amidst fruit-trees, corn, and pas- 
turages, to the commune of Ma- 
nettle. A little beyond the road 
enters a wild and beautiful ravine ; 
at its upper extremity it reaches 
the hamlet of St Marcel. Con- 
tinuing up the valley, the house 



of the Syndic of Marcel is passed ; 
a singularly handsome structure in 
such a situation. About a league 
above this spot is the hamlet of 
JBalsille, and immediately over it, 
the celebrated Castella, a terrace 
on the side of the peaked moun- 
tain, where the Vaudois intrenched 
themselves under Henri Arnaud. 
Here the handful of brave men, 
not exceeding 700, fought for 
their fatherland, for 3 days, the 
united armies of France and Sar- 
dinia, 22,000 men. When the 
latter, however, found it necessary 
to bring up artillery, which was 
accomplished with excessive diffi- 
culty, the Vaudois, seeing that 
they could not hold then position, 
retreated during the night without 
losing a man ; and the following 
day, then sovereign of Sardinia, 
having quarrelled with his allies, 
agreed to restore them to their 
valleys and their homes. No his- 
tory exists more full of wonderful 
adventures than that of the pea- 
sants of these valleys, who fought 
and suffered, and reconquered, for 
liberty of conscience. 

Above the Balsille, one of the 
grandest assemblages of materials 
for Alpine scenery is to be found 
in cataracts, ravines, and moun- 
tains. From the head of the val- 
ley there is a very fine pass by 
the Col du Piz to Pragelas, in the 
valley of Clusone. 

From Perouse to the Balsille, and back 
to Perouse, may be accomplished easily in 
a day. 

The S.W. branch of the Val St. 
Martin is properly called the Val 
Germanasca. This in its turn is 
divided into 2 branches, the one 
leading to Bodoretto, the other to 
Pralis. From the first there is a 
pass leading to Cesanne (in Kte. 
160). From Pralis it is possible 



569 Bte. 162. — PIGNEBOL to MONT DAUPHIN. 570 



to reach Cesanne on the one side, 
or Abries (Ete.) 162 on the other, 
by the Col oV Abries. 

There is an interesting pass 
from the lower part of the Val 
Germanasca to Pra del Tor, in the 
Val Angrogna, and thence to La 
* Tour de Luserna.] 

Continuing on the route from 
Perouse to Pignerol, 

Quarries are passed, where stone 
is raised for the public works of 
Turin ; nearly opposite to these, is 

St. Germano, one of the Protes- 
tant churches, and the little valley 
which leads to Pramol. Still fur- 
ther down is 

Prarustin Church, nearly oppo- 
site to where the valley widens, 
and the road enters upon the plains, 
through the hamlets of Port and 
Abadia, to 

12 m. Pignerol (Ital. Pinerolo) (Inns : 
Corona, good ; Canon cl'Or. Pig- 
nerol is a straggling town, having 
some manufactures and a Pop. of 
20,500. It was once fortified. 

Hill of St. Brigide. Here are 
ruins of a chapel, and of the an- 
cient citadel, in which the " Man 
in the Iron Mask " was shut up. 

Railway 23$ m. to Turin; 3 trains 
a day in 1 hr. 10 min. ; the stations being 
Riva, Piscina, Avrasca, None, Candiolo, 
Nichelino, and Sangone. 



Rte. 162. - PIGNEROL to 
MONT DAUPHIN, by the 
Y ALLEYS of the VATJDOIS 
and the COL DE LA CROIX, 

PIGNEROL to Miles. 
La Tour (char) .... 9 

Bobbio (char) 7 

Col de la Croix (horse) . .13 
Abries (horse) .... 7 
Chateau de Queyraz (char) . 7 
Mont Dauphin (char) . .13 

DLL daily to La Tour. 9 miles. 

From Pignerol the route lies 
through St. Secundo to 

Bischerasco. 5 m 

St. Giovanni, the first Protes- 3 m 
tant commune. Here a ch. was 
built while Piedmont was under 
the government of Napoleon. Upon 
the restoration of the house of Sar- 
dinia, the Rom. Caths., whose ch. 
is on the other side of a little 
stream, complained that the voices 
of the Protestants in singing dis- 
turbed their devotions, and an 
order was given to shut out the 
abomination by a large barricade 
of wood, which the Vaudois were 
compelled to erect before the door 
of their ch. This has now, how- 
ever, dropped away bit by bit, and 
little remains of this evidence of 
intolerance. The ch. is of a sin- 
gular form — a horse -shoe — but it 
is not favourable to the preacher 
or his congregation. 

La Tour {Inns: L'Ours, chezl m. 
Gay, clean and good ; Lion d'Or, 
chez Rottier), the principal town 
of the Protestant communities. 



571 Bte. 1 62 . — PIGNEROL 



to MONT DAUPHIN. 572 



Protestant Church, b. 1850, with 
residences for the clergy and pro- 
fessors. General Beck with contri- 
buted largely to it. This British 
veteran, who lost his leg at Water- 
loo, devoted 34 years of his life to 
improving the condition of the 
Waldenses. He lived among them, 
took a wife from among them, built 
chs. — more than 100 schools for 
them, and lies buried (1862) in 
the churchyard here. 

Hospital for sick and poor Pro- 
testants ; by funds raised chiefly 
in Holland, Russia* and England. 
College was established here in 
1 8 3 7, by the aid of an anonymous 
gift from England, of 5000?. con- 
fided to the late Rev. Dr. Gilly, 
for the education of young men 
for the ministry of the Vaudois 
churches. The necessity which 
.had hitherto existed of sending 
them to Geneva or Lausanne is 
thereby removed. Boman Catholic 
Church, a large one, has been 
built here for the conversion of the 
Vaudois, but it has been attended 
by signal failure. 

Guide— Jean Henry Tron is respect- 
able and trustworthy, well acquainted 
with the neighbouring mtns. The moun- 
taineer must not, however, expect to find 
here men capable of aiding in adventurous 
excursions. 

No part of the Alps for richness 
in the lower valleys, and for wild 
scenery in the defiles and mts., 
surpasses the valleys of the Vau- 
dois. There are good Inns at La 
Tour, to make head-quarters for 
excursions ; and the civility of all 
classes to strangers, especially 
English, ought to be a recom- 
mendation to rambles in their 
country. 

[To Angrogna valley, sur- 
rounded by lofty mtns. and pas- 
tures. Some of its wild scenes 
are associated with the history of 



the Vaudois; as the defiles or 
Barricades of Pra del Tor (2 J hrs. 
walk from La Tom*), which gave 
security to their families, who 
sought refuge within this pictu- 
resque defile. Above it, in the 
recesses of these mountains, con- 
cealed from the world for many 
ages, their Barbes, or teachers, 
imparted instruction, and fitted 
their pupils for the ministry. Every 
foot of ground in this valley is 
sacred in the history of this ex- 
traordinary people. A day given 
to explore the Val Angrogna, es- 
pecially after reading its history, 
will be remembered with great 
pleasure.] 

The road is widened for car- 
riages, but is execrably rough as 
far as 

Bobbio. (No Inn.) There is 2 J 
a cafe, where Jacques Raimond, 
a civil and experienced guide for 
the mountains, may be heard of. 

Above Bobbio there is only a mule- 
path, 7 hrs. walk to Abries. 

A long wall guards Bobbio 
from inundations of the Pellice; 
it was built by a grant from Oliver 
Cromwell, during whose protec- 
torate one of those fearful cala- 
mities nearly destroyed the vil- 
lage. A little beyond, the river 
is crossed, and the mtn. ascent 
begins ; soon, on bending to the 
L, the scenery becomes wild, 
though the bottom is still occupied 
by water-meadows scattered here 
and there with walnut and chest- 
nut. View, the last down the 
valley towards Bobbio. 

After a long course amidst 
strangely situated hamlets, where 
rocks and trees of the wildest cha- 
racter make up a rapid succession 
of picturesque scenes, the path 
reaches a dreary mass of rocks, 



573 Rte. 162.—PIGNEROL 



to MONT DAUPHIN. 574 



communities, particularly that of 
St. Veran (Rte. 169), in a valley 
which joins from the 1. the valley 
of the Guil, at Ville-vielles ; and 
the valley of Arvieux, which enters 
that of the Guil near Queiras. To 
these, and the Val Frassenieres, 
on the other side of the Durance, 
the name of the Pays de Neff has 
been given, to commemorate the 
services rendered to these commu- 
nities by that Swiss Protestant 
minister. Neff, like Oberlin, the 
good pastor of the Ban de la 
Roche, not only promoted the re- 
ligious faith and practice of these 
people, but established schools, 
and taught them agriculture, and 
other useful knowledge. He died 
in 1829. His name throughout 
these valleys is remembered with 
the deepest reverence and affec- 
tion. 



over which the torrent of the Pel- 
lice is poured, and further pro- 
gress seems forbidden. Up amidst 
these fallen fragments, however, 
a path threads a deep ravine. 

Mirabouc, ruined fort, is built 
against the steep escarpments of a 
mountain. It was demolished in 
1796. 

By a rough path through a 
sterile valley to the meadows of 
the 

3 hrs. Bergerie de Pra (the Alpine 
traveller may rest here, in a grange, 
with more comfort than in many 
places of much greater pretension) , 
the highest hamlet in the valley ; 
fertile pastures; barley and po- 
tatoes. 

Abundance of chamois-hunting 
in the surrounding mountains, and 
the fine, honest character of the 
peasantry here, are great tempta- 
tions to its enjoyment. Steep zig- 
zags to 

ljhr. Col de la Croix (76 n ft.), a 
View of the defile of Mirabouc and 
Mt. Viso. The col is nearly level 
for J hr., and then the path sub- 
sides to the valley of the Guil, 
within the territory of France. 

Frontier. — On the col there is 
a block of stone carved with the 
fleur-de-lis, and the cross of Savoy, 
to mark the frontier. 

La Monta is a den, miscalled 
an Inn, a station of the douane, 
where travellers are examined. 

2 J hrs. Abries (a country Inn : Etoile, 
very fair quarters ; fix prices be- 
forehand), the road through the 
valley of the Guil, passable for a 
caleche, passes the valleys in 
which there are still Protestant 



Chateau de Queiras (tolerable 2 J hrs. 
Inn at Queiras), finely sit. It is 
garrisoned, and entirely commands 
the pass. 

Below Queiras a new road is 
open to Mt. Dauphin. Fine defile. 
View of Mont Pelvoux, seen at the 
head of Val Louise. 

Guillestre (a very fair Inn, per- 
haps the best in this part of Dau- 
phine), a little bourg, lying on the 
1. of the road to Mont Dauphin, 
which was one of the stations, 
during the war, for English pri- 
soners. A little below, the road 
passes beneath the 

Fort of Mont Dauphin, which 
guards this entrance to France 
( Inn : Cafe' du Nord, is good for 
Dauphine, but not clean ; clean 
lodgings and beds arc kept for the 
officers of the garrison, and can bo 
engaged by travellers). For the 
sake of these, it may be worth 



575 Bte. 162 . — PIGNER OL to MONT DAUPHIN. 576 



while to ascend to the fort. View 
from the drawbridge of Mont Pel- 
voux. 

The great route from Marseilles 
and Digne to Briangon is now 
entered. (See Handbook for 
France.) 

If this excursion be commenced from 
the side of France the diligence from 
Briancon to Gap will drop the traveller 



at Mt. Dauphin (5 or 6 hrs. walk from 
Briancon), where an omnibus will take 
him on to G-uillestre. There he can hire 
a one-horse caleche for Abries, stopping at 
Queiras to rest and dine. Time : Briancon 
to Guillestre, 4^ hrs ; G. to Abries, 6 hrs., 
exclusive of stops. Avoid making the 
journey between the 1st and 21st of July, 
that being the time allowed by the French 
Government for cutting wood in the forests 
— the horses are then all employed, and 
the charge for them is exorbitant ; indeed 
it is so at all times. 



INDEX. 



AA, 



A. 

Aa, river, 136, 140 
Aar, river, 12, 17, 22, 26, 90 ; 
glaciers, 122 

, falls of, 1 21 

Aarau, 20 
Aarberg, 12, 200. 
Aarburg, 17 
Abadia, 569 
Abbaye, 217 
Abbondio, St., 599, 415 
Abricolla, 474 
Abries, 569, 57} 
Abschwung, 128 
Acbenbriicke, 83 
Adda, 416. 

, vale of the, 387 

Adelboden, 16 3, 164 
Adrian, St., >4 
Ael, Pont d\ 532 
Aeggischhorn, 132 
Aesch, 9 
Aeschi, 162 
Affoltern, 67 
Agaro, 281 

Agassiz, Professor, hut of, 

123 ; museum of, 202 
Agnes of Hungary, 22, 37 
Agno, 4ro 

river, 406 

Aigle, 190, 246 
Aiguebelle, 552 
Aigueblanche, 558 
Aimaville, 532 
Aime (Axuma), 559 
Airolo, 148 
Aix les Bains, 544 
Alagna, 426, 441 

to Gressonay, 441 

Albert, emperor, 22 

Albertville, 54 j, 557 

Albinen, village of, 168 

A Ibis, 42, 46 

Albrun pass, 280 

Albula, 370; river, 347, 364; 

pass, 359. 3^7 
Aletsch glacier, 131, 136 
Aletschhorn, 156 
Algaby, Gallerie d', 273 
All' Acqua, 286 

Kp. Switz. 



APPENZELL. 

Allalein glacier, 435 
Allamans, les, 5?o 
Alie'e Blanche, 278, 501 
Allieres, 184 
Almagell, 4?? 
Alpbach, 117 
Alpe Veglia, 282 
Alpnach, 8? ; slide of, 83 

am Gestad, 8? 

Alt St. Johann, 309 
Altels, 163, 165 
Altorf, 143 
Altstetten, 67, 291 
Alvaschein, 359 
Alveneu, 368 
Amberieu, 219 
Am Bett, 443 
Amden, 50 

Amedeus VIII. of Savoy, 237, 
258 

Amphiou, 259 
Amsteg, 144 
■= — - to Disentis, 340 
Andeer, 350 

to Casaccia, 355 

Andelfmgen, 36 

An der Lenk, 163, 175 

Andsrmatt, 146 

An der Matten, 284 

Anet or Ins, 200 

Angera, castle, 401 

Angrogna, valley of, 571 

Annecy, 548 

Annemasse, 50? 

Annivers, val de (Einfisch), 

266, 469 
Anselm, 482 

Anterne, col de, 527 ; lake 

and chalets, 528 
Antey, 463 
Antigorio, val, 285 
Antrona, val, 435 
Anza river, 395, 428, 430 
Anzasca, val, 427 
Anzendas, 262 
Aosta, 481 

to Evolena, 475 

to Ponte, 532 

val, 477 

Aouet, 462 

Appenzell canton, 301 ; vil- 
lage, 304 



BADERMOOS. 

Arbedo, 151 
Arbon, 35 

Arc, valley, 552, 5 63 
Ardetz, 376 
Ardon, 255, 265 
Arenenberg, 31 
Argegno, 414 
Argentiere, 523 
Argovie, 20 
Arietta, col d', 535 
Arly, valley, 543 
Arnaud, Henry, 565, 568 
Arnen, 189 

Aroletta, Croix de, 5 ; 8 
Arona, 400 

to Varallo, 418 

Arpenaz, Nant d', 504 
Arpitetta, 470 
Arth, 5?, 75 

Arve, river ; 504 ; valley, 506 ; 
junction with the Ehone, 
231 

Arveron, source of the, 514 
Arvier, 485 
Ascona, 398 
Attinghausen, 143 
Aubin, St., 207 
Aue, 327 

Auf der Fruth, 284 
Aufnau, isle of, 47 
Augst, 15 
Ausbord Thai, 464 
Auvernier, 206, 214 
Avalanches, 107 
Avenches, 198 
Aven^on river, 247 
A vents, 265 
Aventicum, 198 
A versa, val, 355 
Avril, Mont, 499 
Axen Strasse, 81 
Ayent, 178 
Ayer, 469 



B 

Baar, 54 
Bachtel, 48 
Baden, 23 
Biidermoos, 183 

U 



579 



INDEX. 



580 



B AGNES. 

Bagnes, valley, 497 

Bale, 1 

Balen, 437 

Balerna, 407 

Balliswyl, 192 

Balfrin, 437 

Ballentre, 559 

Balme, col de, 515, 517, 525 

, grotte de, 504 

, hamlet, 499, 504, 540 

Balmuccia, 426, 439 
Balsille, 568 
Balzers, 301 
Banio, 438 

Barberine, cascade, 523 
Bard, fort, 478 
Bardoneche, valley, 564 
Barranca pass, 438 
Barthelerni, St., val, 481, 563 
Basel, 1 
Basle, 1 

to Berne, 8, 19 

to Bienne, 1 

to Lucerne, 15 

to Schaffhausen, 25 

to Soleure, 12 

to Zurich, 20 

Basle Campagne, 7, 16 
Baveno, 396 

to Varallo, 420 

Bayard, death of, 418 

, chateau, 551 

Beatus, St., 99 
Beaufort, Maxfme de, 543 
Becca di Nona, 482, 533 
Beckenried, 79, 84 
Beckwith, Gen., 571 
Bedretto, val, 286 ; hamlet 

286 
Bel Alp, 131 
Belgirate, 400 
Bellaggio, 414 
Bellaluna, 368 
Bellano, 417 
Bella Tola, 466 
Bellegarde, 220 
Bellerive, H., 9 
Bellinzona, 152 

to Lugano, &c, 406 

to Magadino, 402 

Bennen, Joseph, 255 
Berard, cascade, 523 
Beresal, 271 
Bergerie de Pra, 573 
Bergiin, 368 
Bergunerstein pass, 368 
Beringen, 26 
Berlingen, 31 

Bernard, St., account of, 494 

, St., Great, hospice, 491 

, Little, 540 

Benardino, St., pass, 360 ; vil- 
lage, 361 



BONS. 

Berne, 90 

to Lausanne, 191, 197 

to Neuchatel, 199 

to Thun, 90 

Bernina pass, 379 ; Inns 

384 ; Alps, 379 
Bertha, queen, 198 
Bessans, 563 
Be vers, 366 
Bevieux, 262 
Bex, 246 

to Sion, 261 

Biasca, 151 
Biberbriicke, 311 
Biberegg, 314 
Bied rivulet, 211 
Bien, 538 
Bienne, 11 

to Lausanne, 204 

, lake of, 204 

Bietschhorn, 156 
Bignasco, 284 
Bii'liat, 219 
Binnen, 279 
Binnenthal, 131 
Biona. 476 

Bionnassay, glacier of, 518 
Birs, valley of the, 8, 9 
Bisbino, monte, 415 
Bischerasco, 570 
Bisi Thai, 324 
Bissone, 407 
Bivio, or Stalla, 364 
Black Forest, 26 
Blaize, St., 200, 206 
Blanc, mont, 515 
Blankenburg, 183 
Blegno, val, 150, 343 
Blonay, castle, 242 
Bludenz to the Prattigai 
392 

Blumlis Alp, 155, 164 
Bobbio, 572 
Boccareccio pass, 281 
Bocchetta di Carcoforo, 439 
Bocke, 53 
Boden See, 34 
Bodio, 150 
Boege, 232 
Boghy, gorge of, 141 
Boigne, Gen. de, 550 
Bois, 514 
Boltigen, 182 
Bonavaux, 531 
Bondergrat, 164 
Bondo castle, 370 
Bondoler, val, 282 
Bonhomme, col du, 518 
Bon Nant, cascade du, 505 
Bonneval, 563 
Bonneville, 504, 529 
Bonnivard, 244 
Bons, 232 



BULLE. 

Bonstetten, 67 
Borca, 429 
Borgne, 474 
Borgomanero, 418 
Borgonone, 402 
Borgo Sesia, 419 
Bormio, 385 
Borromean islands, 396 
Borromeo, San Carlo, 147, 

363, 420; statue, 400 
Borterhorn, 466 
Busses, 502 

Bossons, hamlet and glacier. 

507 
Boudry, 206 
Buurg Marti gny, 490 
Bourg St. Maurice, 541, 560 
Bourg Mont Genevre, 564 
Bourget, lac du, 544 
Bouveret, 260 
Boveresse, 213 
Brajean, 265 
Branche, 500 
Branchier, St., 490, 497 
Brand, 393 
Brassus, le, 218 
Bregaglia, val, 370 
Bregenz, 35, 300 

to Coire, 300 

Bregenzer Ach, 300 
Breithorn, 455 
Brenets, lac des, 217 
Brenno river, 345 
Brenva glacier, 488, 521 
Bretaye, 190 
Breuil, 461 
Breven, 513 
Brevieres, 561 
Briancon, 563, 566 

to Pignerol, 565 

to Susa, 563 

Brieg, I3r, 268 

to Domo d"Ossola, 269 

Brienz, 118 

, lake of, 118 

BrieDzvryler, 88 
Brissago, 398 
Bristenstock, 144 
Broughton, grave of, 241 
Brugg, 21 
Bruggen, 287 
Briinig, pass of, 88 
Brunnen, 80 
Brusio, 387 
Brussone, 447 
Bubenberg, 184 
1 Buchs, 292 
Buet, 516, 517, 529 
Buffalora cascade, 362: pass, 

376 
Biihler, 303 
Bukten, 16 
Bulle, 186 



581 



INDEX. 



582 



BUMPLITZ. 

Biimplitz, 191 
Bimtschi, torrent, 182 
Buochs, 79, 84 
Burgdorf, 19 
Burglen, 143, 328 
Biirs, 392 
Biirseberg, 392 
Busserailles, 462 
Bussigny, 208, 235 
Buttisholz, 18 
Byron, Lord, Chi lion, 244 



c. 

Cadenabbia, 413 
Cadenazzo, 403 
Caffreisen, 390 
Calanka, val, 151, 362 
Calasca, 428 
Calaveiran, 514 
Calvin, John, 228, 499 
Cama, 362 
Camasco, 425 
Cambrena, 386 
Camerlata, 408, 415 
Camp of Prince Thomas, 487, 
540 

Campello, and col, 424 
Camperio, 344 
Campertogno, 426 
Campiglia, 535 
Campiole, 429 
Campo Dolcino, 352 
Canaria, val, 34? 
Canciano pass, 386 
Canero, 399 
Caniciil, 355 
Canobbio, 399 
Can tine de Proz, 491 
Capolago, 407 
Caprino, monte, 411 
Carcoforo, 439 
Cardinel pass, 352 
Carouge, 199 
Casaccia, 344, ^56, 371 
Casanna, val, 375 
Castasegna, 370 
Castelmur, castle, 371 
Castiglione, 428 
Cavaglia, 386 
Celerina, 366 

Cenis, mont, 555. Tunnel, 

553, 564 
Cenere, monte, 406 
Centovalli, 402 
Ceppo Morelli, 429 
Ceresio, 412 
Ceresol, 537 
Cergues, St., 235 
Cerlier, 200, 205 



CHTJR. 

Cernobbio, 415 
Cervin, mont, 450 
Cesanne, 564, 566 
Cevio, 405 
Chablais, 257 
Chables, 497 
Chalets, lac des, 190 
Challant, val, 446 
dial u at, valley, 10 
Chambave, 480 
Chambery, 550 

to Lanslebourg, 557 

to Turin, 549 

Chambrelien, 209 
Chamouni, 507 

to Courmayeur, 518 

to Martigny, 522 

Chamossaire, 191 
Chamoiisset, 549, 552, 557 
Champe, valley and lake, 490 
Cham pel, 519 
Champery, 261, 531 
Champlas, 566 
Champsec, 497 
Chandohn, 181, 471 
Chapeau, 510, 514 
Chapis, 537 
Chapiu, 520 
Charpentier, 247 
Chasseral, mont, 11 
Chat, mont du, 549 
Chateau d'Oex, 184 

to Aigle, 187 

Chateau Quart, 481 
Chatel St. Denis, 186 
Chatelet, 179 
Chatillon, 447, 480, 544 
Chaumont, mont, 203 
Chausse, 187 
Chaux de Fonds, 209 
Cha vanes, 534 
Chavornay, 208, 215 
Checruit, col de, 487 
Chede, 506 
Cheminee, la, 51 3 
Cherasca torrent, 282 
Chermontaine, 499 
Chesieres, 191 
Chesne, 503 
Chetif, mont, 488, 521 
Cheville, col de, 263 
Chexbres, 196 
Chiamot, 339 
Chiasso, 408 
Chiavenna, 353 

to Lecco, 416 

to Samaden, 370 

Chiesa, 372, 3 87 
Chillon, castle of, 24? 
Chivasso, 477 
Chivel, 175 
Chouex, 531 
Chur, 296 



CROVEO. 

Churfirsten, 51 
Churwalden, 364 
Cima de Jazi, 456 
Clarens, 242 
Clariden Grat, 324 
Cluses, 504 
Clusone, valley, 567 
Coblenz, 26 
Codine, monte, 417 
Cogne, 533 ; val de, 532 
Coire, 296 

to Chiavenna, 345 

to Disentis, 335 

to Klosters, 390 

to Samad'-n, 363, 367 

to Suss, 387 

Coise, 552 

Col de Jouxplaine, 258, 529 
Colico, 417 
Colma, col di, 423 
Collonges, 220 
Combal, lake of, 521 
Cumballaz, 188 
Combetta, Pointe de, 445 
Combin, mont, 497 
Comblou, 542 
Como, 415 

, lake of, 412 

Concise, 207 
Conflans, 544 
Conflons, 343 
Constance, 32 

, lake of, 34 

Contamines, 504, 519 
Conthey, 265 
Convert, 209 
Coppet, 234 
Corbassiere, gl., 497 
Cossonay, 208, 215 
Courmayeur, 486, 502 

to Bourg St. Maurice 

539 

Courgne", 535 
Courrendelin, 9 
Court, 10 
Couvet, 2T4 
Coux, col, 530 
Cramont, mont, 487 • 
Craveggia, 281, 405 
Cremao, 362 
Cremenz, 472 
Cresta, 355, 366 
Crete, la, 47 ? 
Creux de Vent, 207, 214 
Crevola, 270 
Crischona, 8 
Crispalt, 341 
Cristallina, val, J44 
Croce, Santa, 370 
Crodo, 28 > 

Croix, col de la, 189, 57; 
Cromwell, 572 
Croveo, 281 

u 2 



583 



INDEX. 



584 



CRUSE1LLES. 

Cruseilles, 548 

Cul des Roches, 211 

Culoz, 219, 544 

Curaglia, 344 

Cure de Petit Lait, 30; 



D. 

Dachsen, 36 
Dachsfelden, 10 
Dagmersellen, 17 
Dala, river, 168, 171 
Bard, cascade du, 509 
Datschbach fall, 140 
Dauben See, 165 
Dauphin, mont, fort of, 574 
Davos, 389, 390, 391 
Davy, Sir H., grave of, 230 
Dazio Grande, 148 
Decandolle, grave of, 230 
Dele'mont, 9 
Dent du Chat, 547 
Dent du Midi, 531 
Derborenze, lake, 263 
Dessaix, Gen., his grave, 
. 49 2 

Devil's Bridge, 144 
Diablerets, 189, 263 
Diavolezza, 383 
Didier, St., 480 
Diemtigen-thal, 175 
Diessenhofen, 31 
Dietturth, 309 
Dietikon, 24 
Disentis, 338; Alp, 329 

to Airolo, 342 

to Andermatt, 339 

to Olivone, 345 

Distel, 435 

Dixence river, 475 

Dobbia, val, col di, 442 

Dodi berg, 324 

Doire river, 446, 478, 566 

Doldenhorn, 160 

Dole, mont, 235 

Dolina, mont (Chetif), 488; 

vill., 487 
Dom, 436 
Domaso, 413 
Domleschg valley, 346 
Domo d'Ossola, 276, 395 

to Arona, 395 

to Locarno, 401 

Donas, 478 
Dora river, 564 
Dorfii, 391 
Dornach, battle of, 8 
Doubs, river, 210 
Douron, 505 

Prveria, river and val, 274 
Pragonata, torrent, 4.03 



EZLI-THAL. 

Drance, river, 490, 497, 530 

(in Chablais), 258 

Dreizehntenhorn, 464 
Dru, aiguille de, 510 
Diindengrat, 160 
Durance, valley, 564 
Durnerthal, 330 
Diirrenboden, 375 



E. 

Eau Noire, 524 
Ebel, grave of, 42 
Ebenalp, 305 
Ebikon, 67 
Ebnat, 309 
Eboulement, 471 
Ecluse, 1', fort, 220 
Egina, 283 
Eginenthal, 130, 282 
Egeri, lake, 53, J15 
Eggischborn, 132 
Egua, col d', 439 
Kigen, 524 

Einsiedeln abbey, 311 
Eison, 472 
Elgg, 287 
Elm, 330 
Emme, river, 19 
Emmenbrueke, 19 
Enclaves, rocks, 543 
Engadine, 373 
Engelberg, 136 

to Altorf, 140 

Enghi, 329 

English war, and barrow, t8 
Engstlen Alp and lake, 1 39 
Engstligenthal, 163 
Ennoda, 321 
Entreves, val d', 486 

, vill., 488, 502 

Entremont, val d', 490 
Erasmus, 6 
Ergolz, river, 1 5 
Erlach, 200, 205 
Erlenbach, 121, 181 
Erstfeldt, 144 
Erzingen, 26 

Escher von der Linth, 42, 49 

Esiue, 417 

Etivaz, val, 187 

Etzel, 311 

Evian, 259 

Evionaz, 250 

Evolena, 265, 474 

to Sion, 474 

Exilles, valley and village, 
565 

Ezli-thal, 341 



FORCLETTA. 



F. 

Faido, 149 
Fain, val de, 383 
Farel, 201, 207, 228 
Fariolo. 396 
Fatschbach fall, 322 
Fatschthal, 327 
Faucigny, 504 
Faulberg, 278 
Faulhorn, 112 
Fee glacier, 436 
Feistenberg, 358 
Feldbach, 3 1 
FekMrch, 300 
Felsenegg, 54 
Felsenthor, 60 
Fenestrelles, village and fort, 
566 

Fenetre, col, 502 
Fenetres, col, 499 
Ferden, 172 
Fermelthal, 175 
Ferney, 2{i 
Ferrera, val, 350, 
Ferret, or Ferrex chalets, 501 ; 
col, 488, 501 ; val, 500 

, Little, 501 

Feutersvey, 189 
Fideris baths, 388 
Filar, 432 
Filisur, 368 

Findelen glacier, 456; tor- 
rent, 451 

Finhaut, 524 

Finster Aarhorn,i23 

Aarschlucht, 120 

Aar glacier, 123 

Finstermiinz, 378 

Fitznau, 61 

Flamatt, 191 

Flaschberg, 295 

Flawyl, 287 

Flegere, 513 

Flims, 331, 336 

Flimser Firn, 331 

Flue, Nicolas von der, 84, 86, 
89 

Fluela pass, 391 
Fliielen, 142 

to Bellinzona, 141 

to Sarnen, 84 

Flume t, 542 

Fobello, 425, 438 

Folie, 501 

Folly, 507 

Fontana, 407 

Foppa, 295 

Foppiano, 285 

Force 11 in a pass, 356 

Forclaz, col, 190, 506, 524 

Forcletta, 469 



585 



INDEX. 



586 



FORMAZZA. 

Formazza, 283 
Forno, 424 
Fort Bard, 478 
Foron, 503 
Four, col du, 520 
Fourneaux, 461 
Fragstein, 388 
Frassinone fall, 274 
Frau, 160 
Frauenfeld, 44 
Frety, mont, 489 
Freiburg, 192 

to Lausanne, 195 

Friedrichskafen, 35 
Frinvilliers, 11 
Frohburg, 16 
Frutigen, 163 
Fruthwald, 284 
Fuorkla, 383 
Fuorn, 376 
Furca, pass of, 125 

Horn, 125 

Furce Kien, or Seefinen Thai, 

159 
Fusio, 405 



G. 

Gabiet See, 442 
Gabris, 304 
Gadmen, 138 
Gais, 304 
Galese, 537 
Gall, St., 287 

to Appenzell, 301 

— — to Uznach, 306 
Gallenstock, 125 
Galton, F., 107 
Gampel, 172 
Gams, 310 

Gamschiliicke, 155, 159 
Gansbrunnen, 10 
Ganther, 271 
Gardaval castle, 374 
Gardona, 354 
Garibaldi, 398, 409 
Gas teran- thai, 157, 164 
Geant, col du, 489, 516 
Gemmi, pass of, 161 (see 
164) 

Generoso, monte, 407, 414 
Geneva, 220 

to Aiguebelle, 548 

to Chambery, 544 

to Chamounix, 503 

to Martigny, 257 

to Villeneuve, 233 

, lake of, 233 

Genevre, mont, 564 
Gentel-thal, 139 
Genthod, 234 4 
Georges, St., 218 



GRENCHEN. 

Gerenhorn, 129 

Germain, St., 541 

Germano, St., 569 

Gerolfingen, 189 

Gers, lac de, 528 

Gersau, 79. Ascent of the 

Rigi from, 61 
Gervais, St., baths, 505 
Gessenay, 183 
Gessler's Castle, 55 . 
Gessner, 43, 319 
Gestad, 83 
Getroz, 497 

Giacomo, San, 282, 353, 443 
Gibbon, 238 
Giessbach falls, 119 
Gignod, 496 
Gilly, Dr., 571 
Gingolph, St., 259 
Giornico (Irnis), 149 
Gioux, 538 
uiovanni, St., 570 
Gisli-Fluh, 21 
Gite, la, valley, 543 
Glarnisch mountain, 318 
Glarus, 49, 320 

to llanz, 332 

to Keichenau, 329 

to Stachelberg, 321 

Glatt river, 287 
Glatt-thal, 37, 48 
Gletscher Alp, 436 
Glion, 243 
Glys, 268 
Goemen, 461 

Goldau, 75. Ascent of the 

Rigi from, 56 
Goletta, col de, 561 
Goleze, col de, 5 30 
Gondo gorge, 273; village, 275 
Gonten, 307 
Gonzen, 52 
Gorner glacier, 452 

Grat, 451 

Goschinen, 144 
Gotteron, gorge of, 193 
Gotthard, St., pass of, 141; 

hospice of, 146 
Gottlieben, castle of, 31 
Gouille, la, cascade, 528 
Grafenort, 136 
Graffeneire, 497 
Grandson, 207 
Grand val, 10 
Grange baths, 14 
Grat, St., 447 
Grato, 442 
Graubunden, 337 
Grauhaupt, 444 
Grauehoi ner, 295 
Gravedona, 41 3 
Gravellona, 396 
Grenchen, 14 



HEINRICHSBAD. 

Gressonay, 442 

la Trinita, 443 

to Chad lion, 446 

Grey, Lady Jane, 41 
Grezy, waterfall, 546 
Gries, pass of, 130, 282 
Grigna, 417 
Grimmi pass, 175 
Grimsel, hospice of the, 121. 
Pass of, 120 

to Brieg, 129 

to the iEggischhorn, 128 

Grimseln, 178 
Grindelwald, 109 

to Grimsel, 126 

to Reichenbach, 112 

, lower glacier, no 

, upper, 112 

Grion, 249, 262 
Grisanche, val, 485 
Grisons, 299 
Grivola, pic de la, 5 34 
Grono, 362 
Grub, 303 
Gruben, 465 

to St. Luc, 465 

Gruppo, 428 
Griisch, 388 
Griitli, or Riitli, 81 
Gruyeres, 185 
Gsteig, 1 01, 179, 188 
Guides, xxv 
Guil, valley, 573 
Guillestre, 574 
(jfulmen, mont, 50 
Gunz, 275 
Gure, la, 560 
Gurf, 284 
Gurnigel, 185 
Guttannen, 121 
Gyswyl, 87 



H. 

Haag, 292 

Habsburg Castle, 21, 55 
Hacken, 77 
Hahnenmoos, 163 
Handeck, 121 
Hammeiiin, 43 
Hannibal's route over the 

Alps, 540, 541, 546 
Hasli, or Meyringen, 1 16 
Hauenstein, Unter, 16 
Haut de Cry, 255 
Haute Combe, 546 
Hauts Geneveys, 209 
Health, xxxi 
Heiden, 303 
Heights, xxxv 
HeiKgenkreutz, 60, 280 
Heinrichsbad, 307 



587 



'INDEX. 



588 



HEEBAGEBE3. 

Herbageres, 525 

Herbruggen, 449 

Herenience, village and val- 
ley, 475 

Herins, col d'. 474 

Hergiswyl, 73, 83 

Heri, 543 

Herisau, 307 

Herrenriithi, 140 

Herzogenbucbsee, 12, 19 

Hindelbank, 20 

Hinter Ekein, 346, 360 

Hockhorn, 173 

Hb'chste Spitze, 459 

Hochthaligrat, 451 

Hohenkasten, 291, 306 

Hohenklingen, 31 

HohentwieX 30 

Hohenraiii, 34 

Hohesteg, 449 

Hohle Gasse, 55 

Holbein, 4 

Hollow Way, 55 

Hopital (Albertville) 543, 
557 

Horgen, 46, 53 
Horn, 83 
Hbrnli, 452 

Horses and mules, xxviii 

Hospice all' Acqua, 286 

Hospenthal, 125, 146 

Hotels, Swiss, xxix. ; list of 
charges, xxx 

Hugi, Professor, but of, 123 

Huguenot, probable deriva- 
tion of, 224 

Huningen, 7 

Hunnenflue, 102 

Huss, John, his prison, 31, 33 

Huteck, 437 

Hutten, Ulric, burial-place, 
47 



Ibach, 78, 316 
Iffigen, 176 
Iffigenbach, 176 
Ilanz, 336 
Illiez, val d', 531 
Im-Grund, 436 
Irn-Hof, 120, 1 39 
Imier, St., 11 
Im Loch, 282 

Immensee,' 55. Ascent of the 

Rigi from, 59 
Im-Selden, 158, 174 
Illgraben, 471 
Ill-see, 471 

Inden, 171 , 
Indenville, 169 
Inn, fall, 366. Valley of, 373 
Ins, 200 



KALFEUSEB-THAL. 

Intelvi, val, 414 
Interlaken, 99 

to Lauterbrunnen, 102 

Intra, 399 
Intraana, 402 
Introbbio, 417 
Isella, 273, 275 
Isenthal, valley of, 82 
Iseran, col d', 562 
Isere, valley of, 557 
Isleten, 82 
Isola Bella, 397 • 

di San Giulio, 422 

Madre, 397 

Pers, 38} 

Peseatori, 397 

Isolaccia, 385 
Issert, 500 
Jtznaug, 30 
Ivrea, 477 



J. 

Jacob, St., battle of, 8, 1 5 

Jaman, 184 

Jardin, le, 511' 

Jauchli, 90 

Jazer Alp, 332 

Jazi, chalets, 432. Cima de, 

456 
Jean, St., 44? 

Jean de Maurienne, St., 552 
Jenatz, 388 
Jeoire, St., 529 

Jerome of Prague, his prison, 
3i 

Joch, pass of the, 1 39 
Joderhora, 434 
Jolimont, 200, 205 
Jon, col de, 447 
Jorat, 199, 236 
Joux, chateau de, 212. Lac 
de, 217 

Jouxplaine, col de, 258, 529 

Jo vet, mont, 479, 520 

Juf, 355 

Julien, St., 548 

Julier pass, 365 

Jung, 464 

Jungfrau, 106, 159 

Jura, 8, 206 

Justis-thal, 98, 162 



K. 

Kagiswyl, 84 
Kaien, 303 
Kaiser stuhl, 87 
Kalanda, 295 
Kalfeuser-thal, 296 



LAEBECK. 

Kamor, 291, 306 
Kander, 161 
Kandersteg, 163 
Katzis, 347 
Kemble, John. 240 
Kerenzenberg, 321 
Kerns, 85 
Kienthal, 159, 163 
Killwangen, 25 
Kinzig Kulm, 325 
Kippel, 157, 172 
Kirchet, 120 
Klausen pass, 327 
Klimsenhorn, 73 
Klonsee, 318 
Klbnthal, 319 
Klosters, 389 
Klosterli, 59 
Klus, 388 
Knonau, 67 
Konigsfelden, 22 
Koppigstein, 172 
Kratzeren, 307 
Krautschthal, 329 
Kreutzberg. 377 
Kreutzboden, 180 
Kreuzli pass, 340 
Kreuzlingen, 34 
Krieg Alp, 280 
Kiibhs. 389 
Kumbels, 358 
Kunkels pass, 295 
Kurfursten, 51 
Kiissnacht (Lake of Zurich), 
46 

(Lake of Lucerne), 55 ; 

ascent of the Eigi from, 
60 

Kyburg, castle of, 37 



L. 

Laax, 1 31, 279 

Lachen, 310 

Ladders, Leitem, 168 

Lake dwellings, remains of, 

46, 48, 400 ; antiquities 

found among, 41 
Lamone, 406 
Landenberg, 86 
Landeron, 206 
Landquart, 296, 387 
Landri, 559 

Langhaus, Mad., monument, 
20 

Langwiesen, 390 
Lanslebourg, 554 
Lans le Villard, 563 
Lanzada, 387 
Latrobe, i°2, 214 
Lattenbacb, 175 
Laubeck, 182 



589 



INDEX. 



590 



LAUBERHORN. 

Lauberhorn, 109 
Lauenen, 179 
Laufelfingen, 16 
Laufen, 9 

, castle of, 27, 36 

Lauffenburg, 25 
Laupen, battle of, 191 
Lausanne, 236 
Lautensee, 90 
Lauteraar glacier, 123 
Lauterbrunnen, 102 

to Grindelwald, 104 

to Kandersteg, 157, 158 

to Kippel, 154 

to Miirren, 103 

, valley of, 101 

, upper valley of, 103 

Laval, 562 
Lavater, 41, 43 
Laveno, 399 
Lavey baths, 250 
Lavin, 375 
Lax, 336 

Lebendue, lake and valley, 280 
Lecco, and lake, 4 1 8 
Lecherette, 187 
Legnone, monte, 417 
Leitern, 168 
Leman, lake, 233 
Lsnk, 175 

to Lauenen, 178 

Lenz, 364 
Lesa, 400 

Leuk, baths of, 166. Village 

of, 171, 267 
Leukerbad to Ehone Valley, 

,69 

Levanna, 537 

Levantina, val, 148, 150, 342 
Lichtensteig, 308 
Lichtenstein, 301 
Liddes, 490 
Liestal, 15 

Limmat river, 22, 38 
Lindau, 35 

Linch, river, 48, 49 ; canal, 49 
Linthal, 320, 322 
Lioson, 187 
Lira, valley, 35? 
Liserne, river, 264 
Livigno, valley and village, 

376, 385 
Lizerne, vale, 255 
Locana, 536 
Locarno, 404 
Locle, 210 
Loeche, 166, 171 
Loffelhorn, 130 
Lona, Pas de, 47 2 
Lonza, river, 172 
Lorze, river, 67 
Lostallo, 362 
Lotsch gletschcr, 172 



MARAT. 

Lotsch Pass, 171 
Lotschsattel, 278 
Lotschthal, 157, 171, 278 
Louis, St., 7 
Louis-Philippe, 346 
Lourtier, 497 
Lowertz, 77 
Luc, St., 466, 469 

to Evolena, 471 

to Sierre, 470 

to Susten, 470 

Lucerne, 67. Lake, 78 

to Meyringen, 82 

to Schwytz, 75 

Luchsingen, 322 
Ludlow, grave of, 241 
Lugano, 410 

, lake of, 412 

Lugnetz-thal (St. Peter's), 

T ^ 

Lumo, 399, 409 

to Menaggio, 409 

Lukmanier pass, 344 
Luner See, 393 
Lungern, 88 

, lake of, 87 

Lunghino, monte, 356 
Lutry, 240 
Lutschine, river, 101 
Luziensteig, 294 
Lyons to Geneva, 219 
Lys glacier, 443 
Lyss, 12 
Lys thai, 442 



Mi 

Macot, lead-mines, 559 
Macugnaga, 430 

to Alagna, 440 

to Visp, 433 

Maderan valley, 341 
Madessimo river, 352 
Madonna del Sasso, 404 

di Gallivaggio, 363 

Madrano, 342 
Madulein, 374 
Magadino, 403 
Magg, 50 
Maggia, val, 405 
Maggiore, lake, 397 
Magland, 504 
Maira, 416 
Majolica, la, 413 
Maladers, 390 
Malleray, 10 
Maloja pass, 371 
Malpertuis, 219 
Maneille, 567 
Maps, xxxiii 
Marat's birthplace, 206 



MISOCOO. 

Marcel, St., 481, 559, 567 
Marengo campaign, 478 
Margaretheh, St., 291 
Maria, Sta., 342, 344, 376 
Maria Maggiore, Sta., 402 
Maria zum Schnee, 59 
Marjelen, lake, 135, 279 
Martigny, 251, 524 

to Aosta, 489, 497 

■ to Chamouni, 525 

■ to Courmayeur, 500 

Martin, St., 445, 505, 532 

, val de, 567 

Martino, San, 371 
Martinsbruck, 378 
Martinsloch, 111, 330 
Mastalone, val, 420, 424, 438 
Matt, 329 
Matten, 175 
Matterhorn, 450 
Matterjoch, 461 
Mattmarksee, 435 
Maurice, St., in Savoy, 541 

, in the Valais, 250 

Maurienne, 552 

Mayenfeld, 296 

May en wa Id, 124 

Mazzucone, monte, 425 

Measures, Swiss, xx 

Medelser-thal, 343 

Megeve, 542 

Mergozzo, lake, 395, 399 

Meiden, chalets and pass, 466 

Meilen, 46 

Meillerie rocks, 259 

Meinau, island, 33 

Melano, 407 

Melchsee, 89 

Melchthal, 89 

Mels, 51, 331 

Melide, 407 

Menaggio, 412 

Mendrisio, 407 

Menoge, 504 

Merdasson, 183 

Mer de Glace, 510 

Merlingen, 98 

Mesmer, 30 

Mettelhorn, 455 

Mettenberg, 11 r, 123 

Meyringen, 117 

to Altorf, 138 

to Hospenthal, 1 20 

1 to Interlaken, 118 

Mezzola, lago, 416 
Miage glacier, 521 
Michel, St., 553 
Milan, 401 
Mirabeau, 212 
Mirabouc fort, 573 
Mischabelhorner, 436 
Misocco, village and valley, 
362 ; castle, 362 



591 



INDEX. 



592 



MODANE. 

Modane, 554, 564 
Moed, 527 
Moesa river, 361 
Moesola, lake, 361 
Molaret, 556 
M61e mtn., 503, 504, 529 
Moleson, 185, 186 
Molins, 364 
Mollia, 426 
Mollis, 320 
Mompe-Medels, 344 
Mompetavetsch, 339 
Monehsattel, 278 
Monetier, 232 
Money, xviii 
Mont Blanc, 515 

, tour of, 517 

Mont Cenis, 5 55 
Mont Dauphin, 574 
Mont Joli, 542 
Monta, la, 573 
Montanvert, 510 
Montasg, 358 
Mont Bonoin, 257 
Montbovon, 184 
Monte Rosa, 430, 459 
Monterone, mont, 421 
Montets, les, 506; col des, 
523 

Monthey, 260 
Montjoie, val, 518 
Montmelian, 551 
Montreux, 242 
Montricher, 218 
Morat (Murten) 198 
Morbegno, 371 
Morcles, Dent de, 249 
Morgarten, battle of, 56, 78, 

Morge, river, 180, 265 
Morgog, 235, 5°i 
Morgex, 486 
Morgin, 259 
Morill, 131 
Moritz, St., 365 
Mornex, 232 
Moro, monte, 434 
Morscbacb, 81 
Morteratscb gl., 380 
Morzine,-257, 258 
Mosses, les, 187 
Motet, chalets of, 522 
Motiers Travers, 215 
Motterone, monte, 421 
Moud, col di, 441 
Moudon (Milden), 199 
Moulins, 184 

, les, 530 

Moutier Grandval, 9 

, saltworks, 558 

Mud torrent, 250 
Muggio, val, 407 
Muhlehorn, 51 



Miihlinen, 162 
Miilbeim, 44 
Miinchenwyler, 197 
Miinsingen, 96 
Miinster, in Valais, 1 30 
Munster-thal, 8, 376 
Miinster, 9, 283 
Miinsterlingen, 35 
Muotta, 316 

to Altorf, 325 

to Stachelberg, 324 

Muretto pass, 371 
Murg, 51, 287 

, river, 44 

Miirren, 103, 159 
Murten, 198 
Murtscbenstock,5i, 321 
Muthhorn, 155 
Miitten, 316 
Muzzano, 410 
Mytbenberg, 77 



N. 

Nafels, battle, 320 

Nangy, 504, 529 

Nant d'Arpenaz, 504 

Nant Bourant. 519 

Narrenbach, 175 

Naters, 131 

Nauders, 378 

Nebikon, 17 

Necker, 234 

Neff, Felix, 574 

Nesslau, 309 

Nesthorn, 156, 268 

Neubriicke, 448 

Neucbatel (Neuenburg), 200. 

Lake of, 206 
to Cbaux de Fonds, 

209 

Neueneck, 191 
Neuhaus, 99 
Neuhausen, 26 
ISTeuvache, val, 564 
Neuveville, 205 
Neuville, 11 
Nicholas, St., 268, 449 

to Gruben, 464 

Niesen, 97, 162 
Nivolet, 538 
Nodz, 11 
Noiraigue, 214 
Nolla, torrent, 347. 
Notbwyl, 18 
Novasca, 537 
Noversch, 443 
Nufenen (Novena), 286 
Nuz, 481 
Nydelbad, 46 
-Nyon, 235 



PANTENBRUCKE. 



0. 

Oberaar Gletscher, 122 
Oberaarjoch pass, 128 
Oberalp, pass and lake, 339 
Ober Dachli, 59 
Ober-Gesteln, 129 

to Domo d"Ossola, 282 

to Airolo, 103, 109 , 

286 

Ober-Halbstein, 364 
Oberbofen, 98 
Oberkirch, 49 
Obern Maiensass, 295 
Oberried, 291 
Ober Schonenbach, 316 
Ober StafTel, 179, 323 
Obervatz, 359 
Oberwald, 129 
Oberzell, 30 

Gihningen, quarries of, 31 
GUschinen, valley of, 160, 
163 

Oggebbio, 399 \ 
Oldenborn, 189 
Olivone, 345 
Ollen, col, 442 
Ollomont, 499 
Ollon St. Triphon, 246 
Olten, 16 
Omegna. 424 

. to Varallo, 425 

Omeinas, 186 
Onsernone, val, 405 
Orbe, 215 

, river, source of, 218 

, vale of, 218 

Oreo, val de, 535 
Ormonds, les, 187, 188 
Ornavasso, 396 
Oron le Chatel, 196 
Orsieres, 490, 500 
Orcine, val, 523 
Orta, 42 2 

to Varallo, 423 

Ossola, val d', 276, 395 
Ouches, 507, 518 
Ouchy, 235 
Oulx, 564 
Oyace, 476 
Oyen, St., 496 



P. 

Pallanza, 399 
Panix, 333 
Panixer pass, 33? 
Pantenbriicke, 323 



593 



INDEX. 



594 



PARACELSUS. 

Paracelsus, 314 

Paradis, Grand, 534 

Parpan, 364 

Pas de Boeuf, 466 

Passes, list of, and heights, 

xxxvii 
Pay erne, 198 
Peccia, 405 
Pedriolo, 433 
Peiden, 358 
Pelia, 42 j 
Pellice, 572 
Perdatsch, 344 
Perrier, 567 
Perouse, 567 
Perte du Rhone, 220 
Pesey mines, 559 
Pestalozzi, 19, 43, 208 
Pestarena, 429 
Peter's Grat, 156 
Peter's Platz, 357 
Peter's, St., Thai, 357 
Peteret, Mt., 488 
Peterzell, 308 
Petit Cceur, 558 
Pfaffenwand, 139 
Pfaffikon, 311 
Pfeffers Baths, 29? 

convent, 294 

Pfynn, 267 
Pianazzo, 352 
Piano, lake, 412 
Pie de Mulera, 428 
Pierre d'Albigny, St., 552 
Pierre-a-bot, 203 
Pierre a voir, 252 
Pierre Pertuis, 10 
Pierre, St., 485, 490 

isle, 205 

Pietro, San, 443 
Pieu, cascade, 529 
Pignerol, 569 

to Mont Dauphin, 570 

Pilate, mount, history, 72 : 

ascent, view from the top, 

7 z ; descent, 75 
Pillon, col de, 183, 188 
Pinerolo, 569 
Piode, 426 
Piotella, 147 
Piora, val, 342 
Pioverna, 417 
Pisciadella, 385 
Piumegna, fall of, 149 
Piuro (Pleurs) 370 
Piz Beverin, 350 
Piz Nair, 366 
Piz Ot, 367 
Piz Languard, 380 
Piz Linard, 375 
Piz Mundaun, 3?6 
Plan des Dames, 520 
Plan des Isles, 188 



PUSCHIAVO. 

Planpraz, 513, 528 
Platta, 344 
Platten, 157, 173, 278 
Plaz, 390, 391 

to Sus, 391 

Pleurs, 370 
Pommat, 283 
Pont, 538 

Pont, le (Joux), 217 
Pontarlier, 212 

to Neuchatel, 212 

Pont d' Ael, 5 32 

Pont St. Martin, 478 

Ponte or Punt, in Engadine 

569, 374 
Ponte, chalets, 281 
Ponte Brolla, 405 
Ponte Grande, 428 
Ponte Maglio, 285 
Ponte, in Val d'Orca, 535 

to Villeneuve, 536 

Ponte Tresa, 409 
Pontet, 519 

Pontresina, valley and village, 

379 
Porlezza, 412 
Porrentruy, 9 
Port, 569 
Port Valais, 260 
Porte du Sex, 260 
Pourri, mont, 559 
Pra, Bergerie de, 573 
Pra le Fort, 500 
Pra del Tor, 569, 572 
Praborgne, or Zermatt, 450 
Pragel pass, 3 16 
Pragelas, 566 
Pralis, 568 
Pramol. 569 
Prarustin, 569 
Pratteln, 15 
Prattigau, 387 
Pre de Bar, 502 
Pre St. Didier, 486 
Premaglio, 385 
Premia, 285 
Premosello, 395 
Prequartero, 429 
Prerayen, 476 
Pres, les, 513 
Prese, le, 386 

Protestant valleys of Pied- 
mont, 565, 56-7, 568, 570, 
57i 

Protestants banished from 

Locarno, 404 
Proz, plain of, 491 
Pury, David, 202 
Puschiavo, 386 



PvIDDES. 



Q. 

Quarazza, val, 439 
Quarazzola, val, 439 
Quarna, 425 
Quarten, 51 

Queiras, chateau de, 574 
Quesnel, Herr, murdered , 
473 

Quinten, St., 51 
Quinto, 148 



R. 

Radolfszell, 30 
Ragatz, 292 
Ramin Grat, 331 

Pass, 330, 331 

Randa, 449 

Ranft, 89 

Ranzola, col, 446 

Rapperschwyl, 48 

Raterisboden, 121 

Rawin, 177 

Rawyl, 174 

Realp, 125 

Realt, castle, 348 

Reding, Aloys, 77, 80, 315; 

family, 314 
Regoledo, 417 
Reichenau, 336, 346 

, island of, 30 

Reichenbach, 116, 163 

, falls of, 116 

Reiden, 17 

Reidenbach, 182 

Reinach, 8 

Remus, 378 

Remy, St., 496, 502 

Reuchenette, 10 

Reuss, river, 19, 22, 141, 144 

Rezzonico, 413 

Rheineck, 291 

Rheinfelden, 25 

Rheiswald, 350 

Rhemes, val de, 539 

Rhine, falls of, 26. Source 

of, 361 
Rhoden, 302 

Rhone, glacier of, and alti- 
tudes at various places, 
124 

, Perte du, 220 

, valley of the, 245 

Richetli pass, 330 
Richisau, 318 
Richterswyl, 47 
Riddes, 255 



595 



INDEX. 



596 



EIEDEEN. 

Riedern, 319 
Eiffel, 451 

Rigi, the, 56. Mud-tor- 
rent, 60. Kaltbad, 60. 
Scheideck, 6 1 . Summi t, 
62. Spectre of, 66 

Bima, 441 

Rimasco, 439 

Rimella, 424 

Ripaille, 237, 257 

Ritom, lake, 342 

Ritter pass, 281 

Riva, and lake of, 416 

, in Yal Sesia, 426 

Robenhausen, 48 

Rocco, 424, 344 

Roche Fendue, la, 210 

Rodoretto, 568 

Rofia, 350 

Rolle, 235 

Romagnano, 418 

Romainmotier, 216 

Romansch language, 185, 
298 

Romanshorn, 35, 44 

to Zurich, 44 

Romont, 196 
Ronco, 535 
Rorschach, 290 
Rosa, la, 385 

to Coire, 290 

Rosa, monte, 430, 458 
Rosein, val, 329 
Rovnlaui, 115 
Rossa, col della, 280 
Rossherg, fall of the, 75 
Rosegg gl., 383 
Rossillon, 219 
Rossiniere, 184 
Rothenthurm, 314 
Rothhorn of Brienz, 118 
Rougemont, 184 
Rousseau, 200, 205, 213, 229 
Rousses, les, 218 
Roveredo, 363 
Ruaras, 339 
Ruschlikon, 46 
Riithi, 48, 291 
Riitli, 81 
Ruvis, 333, 337 



Saane, river, 179 ; Upper, 183 
Saanen (Gessonay), 183 

to Sepey, 188, 189 

to Sion, 179 

Saas, 436 
Sachingen, 25 
Sachseln, 86 

Sacro Monte of Yarallo, 419 



SCHLNTZNACH. 

Sacro Monte of Orta, 422 
Sageroux, 530 
Salabertrand, 564 
Salenton, 527 
Sales, St. Francois, 549 
Saleve, mont, 232 
Salgetsch, 171 
SaUe, la, 486 
Sallenches, 505 

to l'Hopital Conflans, 

542 

, waterfall, 251 

Salt-mines, 247, 558 
Saltine river, 270 
Salvadore, monte, 411 
Samaden, 367, 369 

to Xauders, 373 

to Tirano, 379 

Samoens, 258, 529 
Sanetsch, pass of, 179 
Sandalp, 323, 328 
Sandbach river, 323 
Sand Glacier, 328 
Sand Grat, 328 
Sargans, 52, 292, 331 
Sarine, 192 
Sarnen, 86 

to Brienz, 86 

to Engelberg, 89 

Sasseneire, 472 
Sassi grossi, 1 50 
Sassina, val, 41 7 
Sattell, 315 
Sauce, col, 520 
Saut du Doubs, 210 
Sauvabellin, forest, 240 
Savaranche, 538 
Sax, 306 

Saxe, la, baths, 486, 522 

, mont, 488 

Saxon, 252 

Scalare di Ceresol, 537 
Scaletta pass, 375 
Schams valley, 349 
Scanfs, '375 

Scez, valiey, 51 ; vill.,541 
Schabzieger cheese, 321 
Schachenthal, 143, 326 
Schaffhausen, 28. Falls of 
the Rhine, 26 

to Constance, 29 

— — to Zurich, 36 
Schafiock cave, 98 
Schalbet, 271 
Schanfik Thai, 390 
Scharans, 359 
Scheideck, lesser, 108 

, great, 115 

Scherzlingen, 98 
Schienige Platte, 100 
Schnmorn, 103 
Schindelegi, 311 
Schintznach baths, 21 



, 322 



159 



SILS. 

Schmadribach, 104 
Schmerikon, 48 
Sch"llinen, 144 
Schb'nbrunn, 53 
Schonegg, 82 
Schonengrund, 307 
Schreckhorn, 123 
Schreyenbach falls, 
Schuls, 377 
Schwanden, 322, 329 
Schwarenbach, 165 
Schwarzbach, 164 
Schwarzberg gl., 458 
Schwartz See, 452 
Schwefelbad, 186 
Schweizerthor, 392 
Schwytz, 77 

to Glarus, 316 

Schyn pass, 347 » 359 
Schynige Platte, too 
Scopa, 426 
Scopello, 426 
Secundo, St., 570 
Sedrtin, 339 
Seedorf. 200 
Seehsberg, 80 
Seefinen-thal, ] 
See wen, 77 
Seewis, 388, 394 
Segnes pass, 330, 331 
Seigne, col, 521 
Selden, 174 
Selva, 339 
Sementina, 403 
Sempach, 18, 23 

, lake, 18 

Sempione, 273 
Sennewald, 306 
Sense, stream of, 191 
Sentis, 305 
Sepey, 188 

to Aigle, 190 

— — to Bex, 190 
Sep timer pass, 350 
Serena, col de, 502 
Sermenta, val, 425, 438 
Sernft Thai, 329, 332 
Serrant, river, 219 
Serue, 537 
Serve tus, 228 
Servoz, 506, 527 

to Geneva, 526 

Sesia, val, 418, 425, 441 

Sestrieres, 566 

Sevelen, 292 

Severin, St., 265 

Seyon, gorge of, 204 

Seyssel, 219 

Sidelhorn, 123 

Sierre, 256,. 266 

Sihl, river, 38, 67, 311 

Sihlbriicke, 53 

Sils, village and lake, 37: 



597 



INDEX. 



598 



SILVA. 

Silva Plana, 365 
Silvio, monte, 450 
Simmen, source of, 176 
Simmeneck, 182 
Simmen thai, 181 
Simplon road, 266, 269 

, hospice, 272 

, village, 273 

Singen, 30 
Sion, 255 

to Evolena/265 

to Brieg, 266 

Sisikon, 81 
Sissach, 16 
Sitten, 255 
Sitter, valley, 287 
Sixt, 528 

to Monthey, 530 

Soanna, val, 532 
Soazza, 362 
Soleure, 12 
Solisbriicke, 359 
Solothurn, 12 
Somvix, 337 
Sonceboz, 11 
Sondrio, 371 
Sonnenberg, 80 
Sorrebois, col, 470 
Soulalex, 262 
Soyhiere, 9 
Speer, 50 

Spietz, castle of, 98, 162 
Spietzwyler, 98 
Spiringen, 328 
Spliigen, 350 

to Bellinzona, 360 

to Ilanz, 357 

Spliigen pass, 351 
Staad, 179 

Stachelberg baths, 322 

to Altorf, 327 

to Disentis, 328 

to Reichenau, 329 

Stael, Madame de, 234 
Stafa, 47 

Stalden, 268, 437, 438 
Stanz, 84 

to Engelberg, 136 

Stanzstadt, 83 
Staubbach, 102 
Staubi, 327 
Stechelberg, 104 
Steckborn, 31 
Stein, 31, 309 
Steinberg Alp, 154 
Steinen, 315 
Stelvio, road of the, 417 
Stephen, St., 183 
Stiereck, 111, 126 
Stierenbach, 140 
Stock, 128 

Stockalper, canal, 260 
Stockhorn, 182 



THUK. 

Storegg, 89 
Stoss, 80 

Strahleck, 111, 126 
Strattlingen, 161, 181 
Strela pass, 390 
Stresa, 400 
Stretta col, 384 
Strona, river, 396 

, val and village, 424 

Sulpice, St., 213 
Surenen, pass of, 140 
Sursee, 17 
Sus, 389 
Susa, 556 
Suss, 376 

Susten, pass of, 138 

, village, 267 

Suwarrow, 147, 317, 325, 334 

Swiss league, xx ; hotels, 
xxix ; posting, xxii ; dili- 
gences, xxii ; railways, 
xxiv 



T. 

Taconey, gl., 507 
Tamina, 29? 
Tamins, 295, 336 
Tanninges, 529 
Tarasp, 377 
Tarentaise, 558 
Tasch, 449 

Tatschbach waterfall, 140 
Tavanaser, 337 
Tavannes, 10 
Tave'tsch vale, 3 39 
Teggiate, 352 
Telchenhorn, 445 
Telegraph, xxi 
Tell, William, 55, 81, 143, 328 
Tell's chapel, 55, 81 
Tellenburg, 163 
Telliboden, 435 
Tenay, 219 
Termignon, 554 
Ter, le, lake, 217 
Terzen, 51 
Tendre, mont, 218 
Tessin, valley, 406 
Tete Noire, 515, 523 
Teufen, 303 
Thalwyl, 46 

Theodule, St., pass of, 461 
Thiele, castle, 206 
Thiermatten, 175 
Thonon, 257 
Thun, 96 

to Leuk, 161 

to Sion, 174 

to Vevay, 181 

, lake of, 98 

Thur valley, 308 



TYNDALL. 
Thusis, 347 

to Tiefenkasten, 359 

Ticino, river, 147, 15 1 ; valley, 
402 

Tiefenkasten, 359, 364 

Tignes, 561 

Tine pass, 184 

Tines, les, 514 

Tinzen, 364 

Tirano, 387 

Titlis, 138, 139 

Tc'diberg, 324 

Todten See, 124, 129 

Toggenburg, 308 

Torembec, 499 

Torno, 415 

Torrent, col, 472 

Torren thorn, 169 

Tosa river, 276, 395 ; falls of, 

284 
Toss, 37 
Tour, 526 
Tour, la, 570 
Tournanche, val, 462 
Tourtemagne, 267 
Toussaint l'Ouverture, 212 
Trachsel Lauinen, 104 
Traverse, 566 
Trelatete, gl., 519 
Trelechant, 523 
Treib, 80 
Tremola, val, 147 
Trepalle, 385 
Tresse, 519 
Trient, 251, 523 
Trimlach, valley, 16 
Trinita, 442 
Trins, 336 
Trogen, 304 
Trois Torrents, 531 
Trons, 337 
Triib See, 139 
Trumeleten-thal, 104, 108 
Triimmelbach, 103 
Triittlisberg, 179 
Tryphon, St., 260 
Tschierf, 376 
Tschingel glacier, 154 

, hamlet, 160 

, Tritt, 154 

Tschuggen, 391 
Tuille, la, 540 

de Ste. Foi, 560 

Turgi, 23 
Turin, 5?6, 556 

to Aosta, 477 

Turlo pass, 441 
Turtman, 267 

to the yEggischhorn, 277 

to Kandersteg, 171 

Turtman- thai, 465 
Twann, 205 

Tyndall, Prof., 255, 510 



599 



INDEX. 



UETLIBEKG. 



u. 

Uetliberg, 42, 67 
Ugine, 543 
Ulricben, 130 
Unspunnen, 101 
Uuteraargletscber, 122 
Untere Rothhorn, 455 
Unteres Dacbli, 59 
Unter Gescbwand, 61 
Untermatten, 359 
Untero Scbacben, 327 
Untersee, 30, 31 
Unterseen, 99 
Uomo pass, 342 
Urbach, valley of, 121 
Uri, bay of, 81 
Uri Rotbstock, 82 
Urnascb, 307 
Urner Boden, 327 
Umerlocb, 145 
Urseren, 145 
Useigne, 474 
Uster, 48 
Uznacb, 48 



V. 

Yachette, la, 563 
Vaduz, 292, 301 
Val Mouiiers, 8 
Val Tournancbe, 462 
Valor cine, 523 
Valais, 245, 256 

, Upper, 130 

Vallaisan, Mt., 541 
Vallengin, 211 
Valpellina, 476, 499 
Vals, 357 
Val, Sainte, 186 
Valserberg, 357 
Valserine, 220 
Valteline, 387 
Vanzone, 428 
Varallo, 419 

to Alagna, 425 

to Val Anzasca, 438 

Varen, 171 

Varenna, 417 

Vattis, 295, 3 32 

Vaud, 184 

Vauderens, 196 

Vaudois, 565, 567, 568, 570, 

Vaulion, 216 
Vaumarcus, castle, 207 
Vegezza, val, 402 
Venoge, valley, 208 
Velan, Mt., 491 



WASEN. 

Vererna pass, 389 

Verena, St., cbapel, 14 

Veilobrenes Locb, 348 

Vernayaz, 251 

Vernaz, 258 

Verney, 554 

Vernex, 242 

Verrex, 447, 479 

Verrieres, 212 

Vers l'Eglise, 189 

Vevay, 240. Fete des Vigne- 

rons, 242 
Vevayse river, 240 
Vex, 265, 475 
Veytaux, 243 
Via Mala described, 348 
Vico Soprano, 371 
Viege, 267 
Viescb, 130 

to Crodo, 279 

Viescber-Horner, 128, 130 
Villa, 370, 473 
Villard, 191, 249 
Villeneuve, 244, 485, 539 

to Si on, 246 

Villy, 527 

Vincent, St., 447, 480 
Vindonissa, site of, 22 
Viola pass, 385 
Vionnaz, 260 
Visp, 267 

to Zermatt, 448 

Vispacb, 267 
Vissoye, 469 . 
Vittore, St., 363 
Vogogna, 395 

to Macugnaga, 427 

Voirous, les, 232 
Voltaire, 231 
Vorauen, 318 
Vorder Rbein tbal, 336 
Vouvry, ito 
Voza, col de, 506, 518 
Vrin (St. Peter's), 357 
Vulpera, 377 



w. 

Wadenscbwyl, 47 
Wagenhausen, 31 
AValdenses, 565, 567, 568, 570, 
57i 

Waldbauser, 336 
AValdnacht, 141 
Waldsbut, 26 
Waldstadt, 307 
Wallenstadt, 51 

, lake, 50 

Walbsellen, 37, 48 
Wasen, 144 



ZERMATT. 

Watcb and clock manu- 
facture, 203, 209, 211, 229 
Wattwyl, 308 
Wauwill, 17 

Weggis, ascent of tbe Rigi, 
60 

Weinacbter Eck, 303 
Weinfelden, 44 
Weissbad, 305 
Weissenburg, 182 
Weissenstein, 10, 14 

(Grisons), 369 

"Weissborn, 130 
Weisstannen, 331 
Weiss Tbor pass, 452, 456 
TVengern Alp, 107 
"Wesen, 49 

to Glarus, 319 

to Scbwytz, 310 

Wetterborn, 115 
Wettingen, 24 
Wetzikon, 48 
Wilderkuxblein, 305 
"Wildbaus, 309 
Wildstrubel, 176 
Wimmis, castle of, 162 
Windiscb, 22 
Winkel, 83 
Winkel matter, 451 
Wmkelrj, 287 
Winkelried, Arnold, 18, 85 
Wintertbur, 37 
Wolfenscbiess, 136 
Wraunka Tobel, 378 
Wufflens, castle, 235 
Wunderbrunnen, 139 
Wyl, 287, 309 

to Coire, 308 

Wyler, 20, 138, 162 
Wylerborn, 88 
Wytenstein, 81 



Y. 

Yverdun, 207 

to tbe Lac de Joux, 215 

Yvorne, 246 



z. 

Zasenberg, 111 
Zavreila, 357 
Zebnten born, 464 
Zeleze, Croix de, 531 
Zellersee, 30 
Zerbitzen. 469 
Zermatt, 450 



601 



INDEX. 



602 



ZERMATT. 

Zermatt to Chatillon, 459 
Zernetz, 376 
Ziegelbriicke, 320 
Zihl, river, 12, 200, 206 
Zillis, 349 
Zimmerman, 22, 47 
Zinal, 470 

to Val Torrent, 470 

Zizers, 296 
Zmeiden, 465 
Zmutt glacier, 452 



ZURICH. 

Zofmgen, 17 
Zollikoffen, 12, 20 
Zug, 54 

, lake of, 54 

Zumsteg, 284 
Zura, 344 

Zurich, 38. Lake of, 45 

to Berne, 45 

to Lucerne, 53 

to Ragatz and Coire, 45 

to Romanshorn, 44 



ZWIRGHI. 

Zurich to Rorschach, 287 

to Zug, 67 

Zurmegern, 435 
Zutz, 375 

Zweiliitschinen, iot 
Zweisimmen, 175, 183 
Zwingli at Zurich, 38, 41 

His birthplace, 309. His 

curacy, 314 
Zwing Uri, 144 
Zwirghi, 116 



THE END. 



LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET, 
AND CHARING CROSS. 



